How to plant garlic before winter: caring for a winter plant. When winter garlic is planted: planting time, tips for preparing beds and seed treatment

If you haven't planted garlic this fall yet, now is the time to do so. Moreover, garlic can be planted before winter, both winter and spring - it will grow larger and ripen earlier than planted in spring. Galina Kizima shares the secrets of planting garlic.

Garlic is winter, which is planted before winter, and it is spring, which is planted in spring. The difference between winter garlic and spring garlic lies in the fact that winter garlic has a future flower arrow in the tooth, which is clearly visible on the cross section of the tooth in the form of a darker circle. Spring garlic does not shoot. It reproduces only by teeth.

Outwardly, they are easy to distinguish: spring has two rows of small teeth, and winter - one row, usually of 4-6 large teeth. Winter garlic, respectively, gives a flower arrow in the middle of summer, but the seeds ripen only in the southern regions. But at the end of the arrow at the end of July, small onion bulbs are formed, which are used to propagate garlic along with cloves.

Spring garlic is propagated only with cloves, since it does not produce seeds or bulbs. Spring garlic has one advantage over winter garlic: it is well stored in the apartment in winter.

Both spring and winter garlic work well only in fertile soil, moisture and breathable, with an alkaline pH above 7. In addition, they need a sunny location, although they can tolerate a little shading.

Do not try to grow garlic on clay soils, soils poor in organic matter, as well as on acidic soils, in the shade, on too wet lands.

Garlic is a cold-resistant plant, it is not afraid of frost, it sprouts early in the spring, because after planting root system garlic has time to grow well in the fall.

Winter garlic is propagated vegetatively, planted in open ground with cloves in the fall. As a rule, gardeners use their own planting material, but sometimes they buy garlic for planting in stores or from individuals and, seduced by a beautiful appearance heads of garlic, buy southern garlic. After planting, it sprouts almost immediately, winters poorly and often rots in the soil during winter thaws or during prolonged autumn rainy weather. In my experience, southern and imported varieties of garlic are unsuitable for growing in the Northwest region.

If the cloves are without traces of disease, they can be planted immediately. If there is any doubt about diseases, then soak the cloves before planting for half an hour in a solution of the drug "Maxim" or "Fitosporin" to prevent rot diseases.

Garlic in the North-West region is planted simultaneously with tulips, in late September - early October to a depth of about 8 cm. late landings(end of October in the North-West region), the root system does not have time to grow, and garlic sticks out of the ground during the early onset of frost. But even in this case, if in the spring you again deepen it into the soil by about 5 cm, it will yield a crop, but somewhat later than usual.

I have been planting garlic a little differently for many years. I prepare the bed around the middle of August, two weeks before planting. I bring in compost (bucket) or peat mixed with sand and ash (a bucket of peat, a third of a bucket of sand, a liter can of ash) for each meter of plantings. I lightly dig a Fokin flat cutter to a depth of no more than 7-8 cm. On the eve of planting, I water it well with Fitosporin solution to disinfect the soil. I don't use potassium permanganate.

Before planting, which I spend on August 25-27, I make holes 12-15 cm deep with a special peg. If you want to get larger teeth, mark up 15x15 cm and even 20x20 cm. But I find that large teeth are inconvenient when used and I prefer to grow garlic, in which the teeth are medium in size, so I mark up according to the 10x pattern 10 cm

In each hole I pour a tablespoon of large river sand, I lower one large granule of AVA fertilizer, then I lower a large clove of garlic and again pour a tablespoon of sand into the hole. After that, I close up the plantings with soil. The sand introduced into the wells creates a microdrainage around the tooth, and then around the growing head of garlic, therefore, it saves it from waterlogging.

From such a great depth, garlic does not sprout in autumn (with the exception of imported or southern varieties). But even if it rises, do not worry, it will winter well. Garlic, planted in August, has time to build up a good root system during the long autumn and emerges early in the spring. Plants stand as a powerful wall, strong, green and easily cope with any weather conditions. They do not need any feeding all season. Such garlic ripens a month earlier than the one that was planted in September-October.

Growing winter garlic

When a flower arrow appears on garlic planted in any way, it should immediately be broken out. No twisting and tying of the tops does not get rid of the arrow, but it harms the plant, because the leaves stop working normally. In addition, an infection enters the resulting tissue damage and ruptures, which can lead to garlic disease.

One or two of the strongest plants should be left with an arrow in order for the bulbs to grow. As soon as the cover on the flower arrow bursts, the plant must be removed from the ground along with the head, shake off the soil from the roots and hang it upside down to dry. Then the bulbs can be removed. They are needed to improve their planting material.

Growing garlic from bulbs

Over time, garlic degenerates and needs to be renewed. To do this, in the summer you can leave a few large arrows of garlic, sow seeds from ripe bulbs in the fall into the ground. On the next year heads will grow into one clove. We plant them before winter, and in the summer we get a full harvest.

After lower leaves the garlic turned yellow, it can be dug up, better with a pitchfork, not a shovel. The heads should be shaken off the soil and, having tied it in loose bundles, hung in the attic or in the attic to dry. When nutrients from the leaves will completely go into the head, the leaves will dry.

If at cleaning garlic, if you find mold or rot on it, or something else suspicious, then clean the heads of excess scales. Immediately cut off the tops and roots, dip the heads for half an hour in the Fitosporin solution and only then dry them, laying them out in a single layer in the attic.

You can not dry onions, garlic or royal hazel grouse along with tulips, because due to the pungent smell of bulbs, tulips will not form flower bud and they won't bloom the next year.

How to store garlic at home

Plants need to be cut off the roots, remove excess husks, weave a braid and hang it in the kitchen for winter storage. You can cut off the dried tops, leave stumps 2-3 cm high, hold the bottom of each head over a candle flame to lightly set it on fire. This will protect the head from premature moisture loss. Then spread the dried garlic over three-liter jars, tie up the hole with a cloth and put it stored on the windowsills. Do not store garlic in the refrigerator - it usually spoils faster.

Sometimes it is recommended to store garlic disassembled into individual cloves in jars, sprinkling it with salt. This method does not give anything but an extra waste of salt, because the salt takes all the moisture from the teeth, and they quickly dry out and wrinkle.

Growing spring garlic

Planting spring garlic is no different from planting winter garlic, only cloves are planted in early spring, as soon as the soil is ripe for planting. Should not be planted in waterlogged soil - cloves can rot in wet and cold ground. So there is no need to hurry, although garlic is cold-resistant, and it can be planted in the North-West as early as the end of April.

Care for spring garlic is the same as for winter garlic. Pests and diseases they have in common with onions.

Dig up spring garlic later than winter, closer to autumn. But don't leave it in the soil for too long. As soon as the lower leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out, immediately dig out, because the head can crumble into individual teeth in the soil.

You can store spring garlic right on top of a kitchen shelf or cabinet.

I, unlike the generally accepted planting of spring garlic in the spring, just plant it in the fall at the same time as tulips. Then his teeth will be almost the same size as that of the winter, and, as expected, in two rows.

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Comment on the article "How to plant garlic before winter? Planting garlic: winter and spring"

Landing winter garlic in October?. On the beds. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and country plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs Today I planted both onions and garlic. We do not cover anything for the winter, it winters well, germination is also good. Dacha near Pereslavl.

Spring garlic. Planting garlic. Winter - in August. Planting garlic. Those who know, tell me, is it possible to plant garlic before winter or is it too early? Winter - in August When to harvest garlic: leaves turn yellow and bulbs ripen Spring garlic: planting ...

Planting garlic. Those who know, tell me, is it possible to plant garlic before winter or is it too early? From which bed is intended for cabbage, and which one for cucumbers, for example, autumn fertilization and winter planting of onions and garlic will depend.

Is it time to plant winter garlic? On the beds. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. We also plant the dacha and dacha plots of Yarovaya, it is better stored. If winter is maximum until January-February So, with our winters recent times and late autumn thaws of November, it grows poorly ...

Discussion

For several years in a row, we plant winter garlic very late, in almost frozen ground, even later than October 14th. and grows up gorgeous!
BUT we cover it - with leaves fruit trees from the garden, and from above so that they do not scatter - with branches. We take it all off in the spring. And garlic is growing with a bang.
We also plant spring, it is stored better.
If the winter is maximum until January-February - we eat it, we use it, and then it becomes lethargic, I don’t like it very much ((
then we are just starting to use spring garlic from February until the new winter harvest ...
Year-round your garlic.

My grandmother planted all her life up to the Intercession, i.e. before the first snow. "Cover the earth with a snowball, and cover me with a groom." Cover of October 14th.

I’m thinking of planting a spring crop then, where can I buy one? Has anyone seen it for sale? Spring garlic: planting, cultivation and storage. Buy in the same place where you always buy, plant on April 20, it seems to me, it will go for salting.

I planted garlic, or rather, grumbling, household members - and I will plant tulips as it turns out. Is it written on the package to store + 20? and another question - if you plant it in a pot right now and water it ...

Discussion

Tulips with bulbs in pots? or just uncut bulbs at the ends of the stems pulled out of the ground?

let the buds bloom and the stems dry.
dig out. dried cut off. dry. inspect the onions, throw out the bad ones. wrap in newspaper and put in a cool place.
get it in the fall. examine the bulbs. planted in the ground in a box for bulbs to a depth of two bulbs.
wait for spring.

How do you store garlic? Well, it doesn't work. And it seems that the garlic is correct - 4 cloves, and I tried different things. Still sells normal garlic! And even Chinese!

Discussion

It is important to dig it out during it, without damaging the stem and root. I dry the harvest for bundles in the wind and sun for almost a week, dragging it into the house at night. When the tops fade, I weave beautiful braids from it, and sometimes wreaths and hang this beauty in log house where it is dry, cool and drafty.
Garlic retains juiciness and freshness for two years.

I don't cut off upper part, land, then weave braids. Now the garlic in this spit is not dry, vigorous.

When to remove the garlic. Storage of garlic: winter and spring. Last in line is the garlic. After him, we will return the cucumber here again, throwing him organic matter.

How to plant garlic before winter? Planting garlic: winter and spring. Garlic: when to dig up and plant a new one. The traditional planting of spring garlic is no different from planting winter garlic, only cloves are planted in early spring, as soon as the soil is ready.

Planting garlic. On the beds. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Those who know, tell me, is it possible to plant garlic before winter or is it too early? early, at the end of September - beginning of October they plant, but in general they look at the weather, we have one year in a warm autumn, 5 centimeters crawled out ...

Spring garlic. - get-togethers. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and country plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs Chinese I Planting garlic. Winter - in August. When to harvest garlic: leaves turn yellow and bulbs ripen. Tell me please!

Hybrid garlic. On the beds. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase We bought exotics in the fall - hybrid garlic - it has large cloves, and the garlic head is not ...

Discussion

Tell me please! Surug bought garlic, it’s just gigantic compared to the usual one, when buying it, he realized that it was a hybrid of garlic with something, like some kind of American ... I say, can you eat it? add tea in winter, plant roofing felts for the winter. What should I do with it, with this garlic? :)

18.08.2012 22:27:22, illjuzija27

Does it have leaves like a tulip? Are they healthy?
We, too, are already beginning to bloom, but we have been eating it for a long, long time. As the snow melted, it began to eat - delicious, juicy, tender ..

Hybrid garlic. Spring garlic: planting, cultivation and storage. spring I recommend planting spring garlic not in spring, but in autumn, at the same time as planting tulips and hyacinths. The traditional planting of spring garlic is no different from planting winter garlic, only ...

Garlic-lemon tincture. Seasonal issues .. Child from 3 to 7. Education, nutrition, daily routine, visiting kindergarten and relationships with caregivers, illnesses and...

Garlic is one of the most popular and sought-after crops that can be found in almost every area. This vegetable spice gives dishes a special taste and aroma, and it is also a true storehouse of nutrients. Garlic is a rather unpretentious plant; By following some rules, you can significantly increase the degree of its productivity.

The best period for - from the last decade of October to the 20th of November. The culture tolerates cold well, and winter planting will only strengthen and harden it, ensuring harvest in the first spring months. At the same time, it is recommended that the soil be sufficiently light, porous, freely pass water, nutrients and oxygen. To get large garlic heads with a pronounced rich taste and characteristic aroma, the plant should be planted in areas that are sufficiently well lit and open to sunlight.

Why are predecessors important?

When choosing a place for planting winter garlic, it is extremely important to take into account the "predecessors". So it is customary to call the plants that grew in this place during the previous season. The fact is that there are a number of crops, after which it is categorically not recommended to plant garlic, since this will have an extremely negative impact on the quantity and quality of the future harvest.

This is due to the fact that after certain horticultural crops the earth tends to accumulate specific substances that hinder the growth and development of plants, similar diseases and lesions, as well as store larvae and whole broods harmful insects. Sometimes, up to 60% of cases, it is affected by a stem nematode.

By choosing the right site for planting garlic before winter, you will be able to minimize the tillage associated with feeding and protecting the plant, automatically increasing the stability and viability of the root crop.

In addition, in order to develop and grow normally, crops belonging to a certain group need an appropriate complex of useful substances, mineral compounds, as well as chemical indicators. Obviously, with the onset of the next season, planting vegetables that need identical nutrition in the same place is simply not advisable, since the soil is depleted. And suitable predecessors fill the earth with organic matter and, consuming other microelements, leave in the soil all the necessary substances for full growth, comfortable existence and the formation of garlic.

In addition, growing garlic in the same garden for more than 2 years in a row is also undesirable. It is recommended to take a short break in one season and let the earth recover, periodically feeding it with organic fertilizers. After that, it will be possible to plant almost any kind of plant here, with the exception of the garlic itself.

After what the bed is considered favorable?

Winter garlic has a short rhizome, therefore, according to people with experience, it is necessary that the plants preceding it have a long root system. This will ensure the intake of nutrients from various soil layers. In this case, all kinds of cereals are considered ideal predecessors, with the exception of barley and oats. Their rhizome loosens the soil, making it more receptive to air, nutrition and moisture, and leaves with stems organically fertilize the soil, improve its chemical properties and greatly increase the level of fertility, which is perfect for the full development of winter garlic.

An excellent effect and good performance is obtained by planting after squash, cucumbers, zucchini, as well as representatives of winter crops. Garlic also grows well in those beds where berries were previously planted, especially strawberries and garden strawberry. Moreover, with a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plot, experienced gardeners recommend growing it together with strawberries, since these plants will not interfere with each other and will be able to get everything they need from the soil.

Another favorable precursor for garlic is considered to be cauliflower, wheat, various herbs, white cabbage, pumpkin, table root vegetables, dill, parsley, cilantro, lettuce, celery, and legumes. Very often, garlic is planted after potatoes, but this is not the best option and can lead to damage to the vegetable by fusarium or nematode.

So, if the predecessors can be classified as favorable, and the soil itself does not differ hyperacidity, then such a plot can be considered suitable for planting garlic before winter. We only note that no later than a few weeks before planting, it is recommended to thoroughly clean the beds from plants that have grown on them (roots, leaves, etc.), dig up the soil and feed it with fertilizers, after which you can count on a quality crop.

What beds should not be planted with garlic?

There are a number of horticultural crops, after which in no case should garlic be planted before winter. Otherwise, the plant will grow weak and extremely vulnerable to all external factors, planting will give a minimal yield.

Experienced gardeners say that garlic should not be placed in the area where beets or carrots used to grow. The fact is that these root crops deplete the soil very much, pulling out all the microelements and nutrients from it, making the soil unsuitable for the subsequent planting of any other vegetables. For the same reason, not the best predecessors for garlic and eggplant, which also increase the risk of crop damage by certain diseases and dry out the soil.

It is categorically not advised to plant garlic before winter after green, fragrant, onions, as well as varieties of onions "Shallot" and "Batun". This is due to the fact that the listed crops have and are susceptible to damage by the same pests, so the risk of garlic infection is extremely high. In addition, both vegetable crops have a short rhizome, that is, they absorb nutrients from the same soil layer, which after one season is simply emptied. It is also not recommended to plant winter garlic after tomatoes, radishes, radishes and garlic itself.

Features and differences from landing in the spring

In autumn, winter varieties are sown that are resistant to cold. Such garlic has a dense outer shell, the root system is highly developed. At proper fit winter garlic get early shoots. Vegetables, unlike those sown in spring, are well stored until next summer without loss of taste and vitamin properties.

In the spring, spring varieties of garlic are planted. Such cultures quickly “kick out” shoots that are softer in taste, with a pronounced aroma.

Attention!

Garlic grown in spring is not stored in winter.

The main differences between autumn and spring plantings are in several ways. These include:

1. Sowing time in open ground. Under winter planting do 35–45 days before severe cold weather (focus on weather), around the end of September - in October. In the spring, they are sown early, from the moment the snow melts (the earth should warm up to +6 degrees), that is, approximately in March - April, it is carried out in the Moscow region, in Siberia - in early May.
2. Preparatory work. The beds are cultivated from the middle of summer for autumn crops, and from autumn for spring plantings. Winter garlic is not planted in areas where manure was applied, so that the crops do not have abundant tops, a tendency to fungal diseases, and excessive friability of the heads. For winter garlic is necessary sandy soil, and for spring varieties - medium loamy soils.
3. Seed sowing depth. In spring, it is from 3 to 6 cm, but in autumn it should be from 6 to 8 cm. northern regions and under little snowy weather conditions, it is recommended to plant before winter much deeper, from about 10 to 13 cm.
4. Primary planting care. Winter garlic must be mulched, crops are not irrigated, as moisture will come from the soil through the roots. Spring crops are immediately recommended to be watered. You have to be a lot more careful and preventive measures from pests and diseases.

The quality of the crop, both in autumn and in spring plantings, will depend on a well-chosen variety of garlic. For autumn, it is better to take crops that are resistant to frost, pest damage, and fungal diseases.

Can I plant in winter

Spring

Many vegetable growers cultivate spring garlic in the winter way. The main thing is to carry out timely landings, choose frost-resistant variety, use intact large onions, and then you can collect excellent harvest. Garlic heads grown by this method from selected cloves are very large, they can reach 100 grams in weight.

Many people think that sowing spring garlic before winter just needs to be done in order to collect as many bulbs as possible. large size. In addition, high-quality planting material is obtained in this way.

last year

You can also plant garlic from the previous year's harvest in the beds before winter. Provided that you manage to keep it, which is not easy. The main thing is that the teeth are large and of high quality, without damaged husks, not crushed, with no spots, cracks, dryness.

Sowing is carried out in accordance with all the rules, and garlic is disinfected in ash lye - a specially made solution of ash (0.4 kg) and water (2 l), which must be boiled for half an hour (without teeth!), cool, only then placed in it teeth for 2 hours. Bulbs must be dried before sowing.

Features of landing in different climatic zones

Sowing garlic before winter directly depends on the climatic conditions of the area where the crop will be grown. It is necessary not only to plant the teeth on time, but also to do this by choosing the right recess so that the vegetables do not freeze out and do not sprout earlier with a slight warming.

In the regions middle lane Russia start winter crops recommended from late September to mid-October. With stable warm weather, you can postpone the dates until November. The main thing is to be in time with the procedure 1–1.5 months before the frost. In the Moscow region, they usually start planting in mid-October. Popular varieties of garlic among summer residents in this area include: "Spas", "Messidor", "Gribovsky Yubileiny", "Kharkovsky". The depth of planting bulbs on the beds is made from 6 to 8 cm.

In the Urals, landings begin, most often, from the end of September. And in Siberia - from mid-August - early September. In a cold climate, they are guided by the temperature on the ground, it should be in optimal terms, that is, at least +6 degrees. In frozen soil, the bulbs do not have time to take root, they do not winter well, they can freeze out.

In cold climates, the insertion depth should be as deep as possible. The bookmark is made by 10 - 13 cm or more. This is especially necessary during the predicted snowless winter.

How to choose a variety

For comparison, up to 22 winter varieties and only 6 spring varieties are selected for planting in autumn. Among the main differences are the following nuances:

1. Winter garlic has fewer cloves in the bulbs. Their number is approximately from 5 to 10 pieces, but their size is much larger.
2. In spring crops, cloves are arranged chaotically, differ in size, and there are more of them in number (from 8 to 20 pieces).
3. In winter varieties, the teeth are even, the stumps are thicker and denser, and in the structure of the bulb, the trunk is located in the center, unlike spring species.
4. Only winter garlic shoots, from spring - only the Gulliver variety.
5. Sandy loamy soils are chosen for planting winter varieties, for spring varieties, loamy and not very heavy soil is suitable.
6. High frost resistance is typical for winter varieties. Such garlic withstands very low temperatures.

A significant difference between garlic species lies in the way they are planted. by all known ways(cloves, bulblets, single-tooth bulbs) only winter varieties can be sown. Spring garlic, except for the Gulliver variety, is grown exclusively with cloves, since the species does not shoot.

Varieties of winter garlic for planting

Variety name	Degree of ripeness	Qualitative characteristics	Yield degree	Main advantages
"Alkor"	mid-season	Bulbs are dense, rounded. Color is pink-purple. Arrows. The weight of the bulbs is 13–36 g.	high yielding	Resistant to frost, lesions of the yellow dwarf virus. Excellent keeping quality.
"Belorussian"	early ripe	Dense bulbs, large, whitish-violet scales. The weight of vegetables is 56–78 g.	medium-yielding	Excellent winter hardiness. Slightly susceptible to bacterial rot.
"Gribovsky Jubilee"	mid-season	Flat-round bulbs, the shape is elongated upwards, the scales are painted in purple hue. Arrows. The keeping quality is average. The weight of the bulbs is from 24 to 44 g.	high yielding	Resistant to cold, drought, disease.
"Lyubasha"	mid-season	A flat-round bulb with white scales and purple streaks. Very large. The lightness is good.	high yielding	Strongly resistant to frost, fusarium, drought.
"Sail"	mid-season	Arrows. The bulbs are large, flat-round, elongated upwards. The mass of the bulbs is from 30 to 47 g. It is well stored.	high yielding	Winter-hardy, slightly affected by bacterial rot, stem nematode, resistant to downy mildew.
"Sofievsky"	mid-season	Large bulbs, medium purple scales, flat round shape. Weight from 80 to 130 g. Arrows. It is used only fresh.	high yielding	Resistant to frost, nematode. Excellent keeping quality.
"Saved"	mid-season	Round-oval bulbs with scales gray color. By weight it reaches 80 - 100 g. Arrows.	high yielding	High resistance to severe frosts, nematode, Fusarium. Well kept.

All winter varieties often have a sharp taste.

Landing time

In autumn, it is important to have time to plant garlic before hard frosts. At the same time, do not make a mistake with the weather conditions so that there is no temporary thaw. Garlic should not germinate and should not freeze. In the Moscow region, most often, work begins from the end of September - mid-October, about 35-45 days before severe frosts. Ideally the first week of October. The soil is dug up 2 weeks before planting. Planting continues until November, weather permitting.

It gets colder in the Urals earlier, it is best to start planting from mid-September - in October. It is important that the soil warms up by at least +6 degrees. AT Siberian conditions winter is usually early, snow may already fall in September, therefore, focusing on weather forecasts, they start sowing garlic even from the end of August (with predicted early cold weather without a significant thaw) or from the beginning - mid-September in a milder climate.

Landing

Preparing garden tools

To sow winter garlic with high quality, you need to use a number of tools. These include:

• bayonet shovel or pitchfork - for digging the soil;
• hand rake, chopper - to create holes, further care for crops;
• gloves;
• containers for preparing teeth.

Winter varieties are not watered after planting, dried bulbs are also planted, so a watering can is not required. When crops are planted in industrial scale it is recommended to use manual or machine garlic planters, equipment for sizing cloves, a tractor with a nozzle - a pitchfork for digging plots.

Soil preparation

The soil for winter garlic is selected sandy, with good moisture and air permeability. The beds are placed on flat areas without closely spaced groundwater. The lowlands are unsuitable, since in cold weather there may be moisture stagnation, due to which the roots can rot.

The best place for winter garlic is beds located close to the fence with south side site. Soil acidity should be neutral. The place for crops is chosen well-lit. It is necessary to clean the soil, dig, and fertilize 3 or 4 weeks before the planting procedure.

The beds are also spudded in advance so that the soil settles a little. This is necessary so that the bulbs do not freeze during sowing, do not germinate ahead of time.

After digging, fertilizers are applied (per 1 sq. M.):

1. Dolomite flour (1 glass), nitrophoska (1 tablespoon), superphosphates (1 tablespoon) are added to the loamy soil. Or they make compost (1 bucket), sprinkle with ash (1.5 cups).
2. For sandy and clay soils apart from minerals and organic fertilizers above, add a bucket of peat.

Fresh manure is not used so that the garlic does not hurt, is not affected by pests. Ready ridges are disinfected with a solution before planting blue vitriol, dissolving 50 g of the substance in a bucket of water. The wetted soil is covered with a film, left until the planting procedure.

How to prepare planting material

Garlic is being prepared for planting. The teeth are sorted out, poor-quality, damaged, dried up, small are put aside. Material suitable for sowing must be pre-treated. It is disinfected as a prophylaxis against damage by rot, mold, spotting in solution:

• table salt (1 large spoon per 2 liters of water) for 3 minutes, and then in a solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per bucket of water) for 3 minutes;
• settled for half an hour with ash (0.4 kg of substance per 2 l hot water) for about 2 hours;
• drug (according to the instructions) "Fistosporin-M";

Be sure to dry the garlic before planting.

The process itself

It is important to properly plant the teeth so that the next year the garlic grows large.

After which crops to plant

You can not sow after carrots, beets, radishes, turnips and other root crops. At the place of cultivation of onions and garlic, vegetables are re-planted only after 3 years.

To what depth

The depth of embedding of the teeth should be approximately 8-10 cm in a not very cold climate, in the northern regions - from 13 to 20 cm. Crops of bulbs are deepened by 3 cm. Coarse-grained sand or ash is poured at the bottom of the furrows with a layer of up to 3 cm to protect crops from decay.

It is necessary to plant garlic cloves bottoms down. It is impossible to allow compaction of the soil under them, so as not to impede the growth and development of the root system. From dense soil, teeth can be pushed to the surface in winter, as a result, they are threatened with freezing.

Landing pattern

Rows are made for cloves in the beds, retreating 18–25 cm, but no more. The distance between seedlings depends on their size. Between small teeth make indents of 14-16 cm, between large - 19-22 cm.

Row spacing when planting with bulbs should be approximately 17 cm. Between seedlings leave approximately 3 cm, a distance of 10 cm is recommended for very large garlic. For 1 sq. meter beds, most often, use 30 bulbs.

Seedling care

After sowing, it is enough to sprinkle the beds with baked ash (1 cup per 1 square meter). Watering is not immediately needed, usually abundant autumn rainfall is enough. In arid climates, irrigation can be done once a month, using a bucket of water per 1 sq. meter.

Before severe frosts, plantings are mulched, for example, with a mixture of sawdust and peat 2 cm thick. In snowless weather in severe frosts, the beds are covered with sheets of roofing material or film. Protective coatings it is important to remove with the onset of spring thaw.

The main care for garlic is regular loosening to a depth of 3 or 4 cm, followed by mulching with a wet layer of peat. Watering is carried out weekly, bringing in a bucket of water per 1 sq. landing meter.

In the spring, you can make a starting top dressing, subject to poor foliage growth. I use nitrogen-containing fertilizers by adding a solution of urea (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) or bird droppings(1 glass). The feeding rate is 3 liters of the finished solution per 1 sq. landing meter. The procedure is repeated if necessary only after 2 weeks.

For high productivity, it is recommended to remove arrows from most crops, leaving only those that are necessary for harvesting planting material - bulbs.

Possible problems and difficulties

As a result of unaccounted for crop rotation, you can get a small crop, damage to crops by fungi, weak sprouts in the beds.

Using fresh manure when cultivating the soil for planting, they subsequently face damage to garlic by mold, rot, and pests. Teeth without disinfection in a solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulphate may not germinate, freeze, and sprout damaged diseases.

Too deep planting leads to the loss of seedlings. The growth of the root system is hindered by well-packed soil under the teeth. Wet seed does not germinate, it freezes or rots.

Poorly mulched plantings will not withstand extreme cold. And those planted out of time can germinate ahead of time, which is fraught with loss of crops during frosts.

Typical errors

Taking into account the difficulties faced by inexperienced vegetable growers, it is worth noting the mistakes that should be avoided when sowing winter varieties of garlic:

1. You can not plant garlic in one place for several years in a row, after harvesting onions, beets, carrots, turnips, radishes, radishes.
2. It is not necessary to fertilize for the winter with nitrogen fertilizers.
3. It is necessary to adhere to the planting dates, taking into account the climate in different regions.
4. It is necessary to choose the right landing depth. Its optimal value is approximately 8–10 cm for teeth. The colder, the more they make a seal. For bulbs - 3 cm.
5. You can not divide the garlic heads into teeth in advance, this is done the day before the procedure. At the same time, seedlings are carefully selected, checked so that the husk does not come off, they are disinfected, dried well before sowing.

In addition to the above, we must not forget with the onset of spring and about further care for seedlings.

When growing winter garlic to obtain early vitamin greens, it is important to adhere to planting dates, climatic features in the regions, take into account the agricultural technology procedure, choose good varieties only then can a high-quality crop be harvested.

Garlic is very popular in our country. It grows well in a variety of climates. When grown, it forms underground bulbs (heads), which consist of individual lobules (cloves).

Features of planting winter garlic

Autumn planting of garlic is preferable to spring, as the heads are larger and denser. For winter cultivation choose the largest bulbs, which are split into individual cloves.

If you carefully examine the bulb, then, with the same size, you can see specimens with thin and thick stems. For seeds, it is better to select thin-bore heads that give more uniform teeth. In thick bulbs, the middle lobules are too small and unsuitable for planting. These cloves can be used for growing in a two-year-old crop, then they produce large, even bulbs.

Preparing seed for planting

Seed material before planting is thoroughly dried in a warm room. The mesh with teeth is placed on a battery or placed near the stove and dried for 2-3 weeks. Poorly dried garlic is very much affected by fungal diseases.

Etching is carried out 1-2 days before planting. The cloves are soaked in a fungicide solution for one hour. Usually they use Fundazol, Tiram, Maxim (the solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions) or in a solution of potassium permanganate of medium concentration. Then the seeds are thoroughly dried. Seed dressing with fungicides prevents the development of fungal diseases of garlic.

Most varieties of winter garlic are suitable for cultivation in all regions of the country. The most common are Novosibirsk, Agate, Reliable, Onyx, Jubilee Gribovsky, Sagittarius, Losevsky, Petrovsky, Soyuz.

Bad and good predecessors

When growing a crop, crop rotation must be observed. It cannot be grown in one place for more than one year, as the damage to plants by diseases and pests increases. Garlic can be returned to its original place only after 5 years. Good precursors for culture are:

• gourds (zucchini, pumpkin, cucumbers);
• tomatoes;
• cabbage;
• lettuce, dill;
• busy couple.

You should not cultivate garlic after beets, carrots, potatoes, onions and other root crops. These crops remove the same substances from the soil as garlic.

When to plant garlic before winter

Garlic is planted before winter 3 weeks before the onset of the first cold weather. Usually this is mid-late October. If you plant it earlier, then the cloves can germinate and die. If later, then they will not have time to take root, some of the cloves will die in winter, seedlings in spring will be rare and weakened.

The possible timing of planting garlic in the fall is entirely dependent on the weather and varies from year to year. It is necessary to plant garlic in sunny places; in partial shade, plants develop worse.

Soil preparation

Plants grow well on light and medium loamy soils. The land for winter planting is prepared in advance. Fresh manure or peat cannot be applied, since garlic on such fertilizer goes into the leaf, forms loose heads unsuitable for storage. If the soil is very poor, then a few months before planting, humus or completely decomposed compost is introduced.

Acidic soils are unsuitable for garlic. Seedlings on such soils begin to turn yellow in spring, plants develop poorly, finish growing earlier, and small, underdeveloped heads form. To determine the acidity, they use special devices (sold in stores). They are very simple and easy to use and allow you to determine the acidity of the soil on the spot.

A device for measuring soil moisture, acidity and illumination.

The soil is acidic if the pH is less than 6.5. For its deoxidation, liming is carried out in the fall: dolomite flour, limestone flour, and fluff are added. Fertilizer is planted in the ground to a depth of 8-10 cm.

When liming, one should take into account the speed and duration of the action of the fertilizer.

1. Dolomite flour. Its action begins to appear 2 years after the introduction and lasts up to 5 years. Using dolomite flour the soil will be favorable for planting garlic for 3 years.
2. Limestone powder. Its effect is manifested for 2 years and lasts 2-3 years. When applied, the soil becomes suitable for garlic in the second year.
3. Fluffy. The action begins immediately after the introduction and lasts 1 year. You can cultivate garlic immediately after making fluff.

The dose of fertilizer depends on the acidity of the soil.

• On strongly acidic soils (pH below 4.5), the norm is 50-60 kg/hundredth.
• For medium acidic (pH 4.5-5.5) 30-40 kg / weave.
• For slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.5) 25-30 kg / weave.

Lime fertilizers are applied in autumn for digging, evenly distributing them over the surface of the earth.

Since lime contributes to the leaching of potassium, potassium fertilizers are added to the soil at the same time. Potassium sulfate is the best for garlic.

Waterlogged soils are unsuitable for growing garlic. Often it does not even sprout due to the fact that the cloves rot in damp soil, and the shoots that appear are yellow, stunted, and quickly die.

Ridges for winter garlic are dug up in August, putting all the necessary fertilizers into the soil. When digging, you can add ash at the rate of a bucket per m2. The earth is leveled, clods are broken.

Landing technology

For planting, the largest cloves are taken, from which large, even, dense heads grow. Garlic is planted in cold, dry weather. The place should be well lit all day long.

1. Furrows are made on the ridges, the distance between which is 23-25 ​​cm.
2. If the land is very dry, then it is watered and allowed to ventilate.
3. The cloves are planted in the furrows with the bottom down to a depth of 4-5 cm, slightly pressing them into the ground, at a distance of 15-17 cm from each other.
4. Fall asleep planted cloves with earth.
5. Cover the bed with spruce paws or straw. This is done to prevent the garlic from freezing.

If there is not enough space on the site, then you can make a thickened landing. The cloves are planted 9-10 cm apart, and the distance between the rows is reduced to 13-15 cm. With this planting, the heads are somewhat smaller.

Winter Garlic Care

In the spring, spruce branches are removed from the ridges only when the threat of the return of cold weather has passed, since garlic seedlings suffer greatly from spring temperature drops.

top dressing

Young plants are very sensitive to nitrogen deficiency. If it is not enough, then the leaves begin to turn yellow, the tips dry up. When the first signs of nitrogen starvation appear, root dressing. It is better to feed with carbamide (urea), since it is less washed out by precipitation from the soil. The solution is prepared at the rate of 3 g per 1 liter of water for one plant. Shoots on the ridges are watered, and then fed.

Watering

Winter garlic does not require a lot of moisture. He has enough rainfall. It should be watered only if the summer is very dry and there is no rain. Excessive moisture leads to damage to plants by fungal diseases, which are extremely difficult to deal with, since all pathogens are found in the soil and primarily affect the heads of garlic.

When any diseases appear, the affected plants are removed, and the rest are watered with a fungicide solution (Maxim, Khom).

Caring for garlic is simple and consists in regularly loosening the soil until the tops close the row-spacing. When loosening the plants, it is necessary to lightly hill them, sprinkling the earth to the heads.

Winter garlic is arrowing and non-shooting. For better formation of arrow heads, they are cut off. If it is necessary to grow bulbs, then a few arrows are left, and the steel ones are broken out.

In winter garlic, in mid-July, the leaves above the heads are tied in a knot or strongly crushed. This technique allows you to extend the ripening for 1-2 weeks. Until the leaves are dry, garlic is poured and the longer it remains in the ground during this period, the larger the heads will be.

Harvesting and storing garlic

Garlic is removed from the beds only after complete drying leaves. Arrows are a reliable indicator of maturity. When they straighten up and the film on the inflorescence bursts, the garlic is ready for harvesting. If you delay with it, then the cloves begin to sprout. Sprouted garlic is not suitable for storage or planting. It must be used immediately.

In dry weather, the heads are dug up and left for several hours on the ridges. Then they are removed under a canopy, where they are laid out in a thin layer. Garlic is dried for 12-15 days. Then the tops are cut off, leaving 10-15 cm of the stem, cleaned of integumentary scales, the roots are cut off. When storing the crop in braids, 40 cm of the stem is left so that it can be braided. Store in cold rooms (cellars, cellars, sheds) at a temperature of 2-4°C. With more high temperature teeth begin to grow.

Growing garlic from bulbs

Garlic does not form seeds. In summer, he has arrows in which air bulbs develop - bulbs. In breeding, they are widely used to develop new varieties. In the garden, large dense heads can also be grown from them. Bulbs should be obtained only from winter garlic, as they are larger and good quality heads grow from them.

To get air bows, leave a few arrows. By the end of July, from 60 to 100 bulbs ripen in them, outwardly similar to small cloves. When the arrows straighten out and the inflorescence film begins to break, the arrows are collected and dried.

You can plant bulbs before winter and in spring. At autumn planting onions are sown in glades at a distance of 5-6 cm between them to a depth of 3 cm. The ridges must be covered with spruce branches. The following year, care is the same as for ordinary garlic.

At spring cultivation bulbs are stratified before planting. They are wrapped in cloth and placed in a cold place (refrigerator, barn), where they are kept for 10-20 days. After that, they are planted as spring garlic. By the end of summer, single-toothed bulbs are formed from the planted bulbs. In autumn they are dug up and dried.

A rich harvest of garlic is the dream of every gardener. No wonder that every autumn acute, garlic issues become relevant. When to plant garlic before winter? Which area to highlight? How to select seeds and plant them correctly? What kind of fertilizer to apply?

In this article, we will reveal the secrets of a successful planting of winter garlic. And at the same time we will try to answer the most main question When to plant garlic in the fall

So, in order.

When to plant winter garlic

To plant such a useful and necessary culture archive is important. Plant early - the cloves will take root, sprout and freeze in winter. Too late - they will take root poorly, or they will not have time at all. The harvest will be weak, or there will be nothing to harvest, as the seed will be wasted.

When to plant garlic before winter is, of course, an interesting question. Because no one will ever say exact date. Even if we turn to the lunar calendar, it contains a good dozen dates. This year, for example, we are offered to plant garlic in September, and in October, and even in November. How to navigate a gardener who is worried about the future harvest? How to choose the best date?

Planting garlic has long been associated with the Intercession, a great church holiday. According to the new style, this is October 14, according to the old style, October 1. According to popular beliefs, it is on this day that summer passes the reins of power to winter.
I am sure that most experienced gardeners always focus on this date, given the weather conditions. So, with errors, the landing date can be called "October 14, plus, minus."

What does it mean. In some regions, landing may occur earlier. This is Siberia, the Urals. In the southern regions, on the contrary, a little later. It turns out that garlic time comes at the end of September, and lasts until the end of October. If the warm weather spoils, then in some regions you can do planting in November.

It turns out that the gardener himself determines for himself when to plant garlic before winter. They can help him folk omens, verified over the centuries:

• When it gets chilly outside
• When it's cold to step on the ground barefoot
• When the white flies fly
• When are tulips planted?
• When the birds fly south

And to be sure to choose correct date landing, folk beliefs and specific weather conditions can be compared with lunar calendar for 2017. auspicious days in September it is 7,8,9,23 and 24. In October - 5,6,20 and 22. In November - 1,2,16,17,29 and 30.

How to choose the right garlic for planting

Here it is time to remember the proverb "What you sow, you will reap." Therefore, for planting, you need to select the best heads with large and healthy cloves. Damage, traces of rot and mold are not acceptable on them.

It is necessary to divide the head into cloves on the day of planting, so that they do not dry out. View each of them, make sure that the clove has an integral outer shell. You don't have to undress him. Garlic grown from a bare clove will be sluggish. It is only necessary to separate the mother's bottom, which will slow down rooting.

When planting, it is desirable to give preference to productive, winter-hardy and dry-resistant varieties that have good qualities storage. Among gardeners, the following varieties are valued:

1. Jubilee Gribovsky. Perhaps one of the best. Differs in high yields. Resistant to pests and diseases. Well kept. It has a large bulb with the number of teeth from 5 to 8. It can weigh 40 grams.
2. Anniversary 07. Also applies to productive and resistant varieties. Well kept. Number of cloves 5 - 8.
3. Lyubasha. A wonderful variety, winter and dry resistant. Can be stored for 10 months without losing quality. The bulb weighs 10-15 grams, the number of cloves varies within 7 pcs.
4. White Ukrainian. This variety does not shoot, it is remarkably stored. Heads can weigh from 50 to 140 grams. Differs in a large number of teeth, can have up to 12 pcs.
5. Kharkov purple. Differs in high yields, resistance to diseases and pests. It has purple, rounded - flattened shape. It can weigh from 30 to 60 grams, have 6 cloves.

Choose the variety that best suits your region. Only in this case can one count on bountiful harvest. Pay attention to the fact that varieties that produce arrows will be more hardy and winter-hardy.

Many owners select the seed fund from their own crop. The best heads are left for these purposes. The right decision for several seasons. But from my own experience I can say that you need to update the seed once every three to four years.

This can be done using garlic seeds from your own garden. They are called bulbs. During ripening, garlic releases arrows that we pluck. To improve the seed fund, you need to leave a few arrows.

The collected bulbs should be planted at the same time as the main material. Only on a separate bed. In the first year, garlic will grow from bulbs - single-toothed. By planting it in the second year, we will get a full-fledged bulb, thereby improving our garlic arsenal.

When asked whether it is necessary to do the processing of garlic cloves before planting, I will answer this way. I know that some gardeners soak the seed in a light solution of potassium permanganate. But I don't do that. I'm just taking away quality material I fertilize the soil well. I believe that the correct implementation of agricultural technology allows you to collect abundant crops.

How to choose a place for planting garlic in the fall

The first thing to do is to change the site. Garlic does not like to grow two years in a row in one place.
Garlic does not respect areas after onions and nightshade - tomatoes, peppers, blue ones. A good new place will be where zucchini, pumpkins, cucumbers grew. It will grow well in place of cabbage and legumes. He likes strawberries as a neighbor.

What areas are preferable for landing

• With a flat, elevated surface that will not be undermined by spring floods
• With light sandy soil
• well lit
• Excluding dampness.

Preparing the site for planting winter garlic

The site has been chosen, now we need to prepare it. It is better to do this in advance. At least 2 weeks before planting.
Each gardener is his own agronomist, who has developed his own method of preparing and fertilizing the site. I will write how I do it. I can advise with confidence. I have been planting garlic for many years, I am not offended by the harvest. Enough until the new season, and a decent amount goes to blockage. For landing I select only a kilogram - one and a half.

So what's to be done

1. Dig up the earth. Keep the depth on the bayonet of the shovel.
2. Select weeds and stones.
3. Speed ​​up the land with a rake.
4. Fertilize the land. The best option would be humus or compost. Apply as follows - a ten-liter bucket per two square meters. Humus use a two-year exposure. Garlic does not tolerate fresh manure, as there is a lot of nitrogen there. Mail will turn sour, and garlic respects fertile but neutral soils.
5. Loosen the ground well before planting.
6. When planting, pour ashes directly into the grooves. It will protect the teeth from decay.

What else can you do to improve the soil?

1. If there is no humus, you can use mineral fertilizers. Add 20-30 grams of superphosphate per square meter and potash fertilizer in the amount of 20 gr.
2. Can add ammonium nitrate just before boarding. Per square meter 10 gr.

I want to emphasize that fertilizers must be applied taking into account specific conditions, not forgetting that garlic needs sandy, non-acidic soil. Not too hard and not too soft. Dense can push the seeds to the surface, they simply freeze. Strongly soft can tighten the teeth deep into, which will also adversely affect the yield.

Rules for planting garlic in the ground

Before planting, the ground must be thoroughly loosened, because some time has passed since the preparation. The ground has dried up.

Watering the site before planting is usually not required - after all, it is very outdoors, there is enough moisture. In dry autumn, you can water the day before planting.

Make grooves with a distance of 20 - 25 centimeters to a depth index finger. Another measure of depth is two teeth.

The teeth should be planted at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from each other. This is done after the bottom of the hole has been sprinkled with ash. You can’t press the clove into the ground, just carefully put it in the hole with the roots down. Make sure that - the distance from the upper tip to the surface of the earth is 3.5 - 4 centimeters.

If you decide to plant bulbs in the fall, then they are placed in holes with a shallower depth. Five centimeters will be enough.

At the end of planting, the ground must be leveled. Then mulch the area. This means strewn with peat or sawdust on top. Foliage is great. Mulching will serve as an additional fertilizer, as well as save the seeds from freezing. Effective layer - up to 4 cm.

Planted garlic is usually not watered. Enough falling dew and autumn rains.

A good harvest of garlic can be expected when there is a lot of snow on the site. Therefore, it is necessary to make sure that he lingers on the site. Lay small branches, brushwood. And if necessary, you can even add snow manually in winter. But this is the case if you have a small area.

For the southern regions, such shelter for the winter will be enough. But in cold regions, the garlic needs to be covered more thoroughly. Layer warm blanket in the form of mulch, make it thicker, up to 18-20 centimeters. Otherwise, use a covering material, or special agrofiber.

With the onset of warm days, the mulch layer will need to be removed. Otherwise, our garlic will suffocate or suffocate. And loosen the soil.

Plant on health - garlic is a useful thing. If you follow all the rules, everything will work out for you!