Features of planting bulbous flowers in the fall. Autumn planting of bulbous, small-bulbous and corm crops When to plant bulbous flowers

From how we take care of the “pioneers” of spring in the fall - we dig, dry, transplant and plant, the future advantages of our garden depend. In autumn, only frost-resistant bulbous plants can be planted. Fertilizers are applied in advance, if necessary, an embankment is prepared for planting, a heater is chosen for shelter.

Planting dates for bulbs in the fall

Start planting bulbs from the end of August.
Tulips and hyacinths are best planted last - at the end of September – early October.

It is well known that it is customary to plant bulbs in already chilled ground. This is usually observed when planting bulbs in middle lane at the end of September - beginning of October.

If the autumn has been long, with thaws, the bulbs can naturally sprout, as they begin to develop at temperatures slightly above 0°C.
Such sprouts of tulips, daffodils, garlic that have appeared above the ground, in fact, do not pose a danger, they winter well.
Although this phenomenon is considered undesirable for, hyacinths and similar plants, their shoots can die from frost.
it is better to have time to land before mid-September (in the conditions of the Moscow Region and the Middle Strip).

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Considering that rooting can also take place under snow in unfrozen soil, the bulbs can in principle be planted until winter itself, especially when using a layer of insulation.

After all, there is even a method of stretching the timing of spring flowering with the help of a long autumn planting of bulbs.
If you plant tulips in batches in autumn with breaks of 7-10 days, then you can extend their spring flowering, and planting will take place without fuss.

About which flowers appear first in the flower beds in the garden, read the article:

Fertilizers when planting bulbs in the fall

When planted in autumn, the bulbs have time to grow quite well before frost. long roots, and sometimes, even in autumn, green seedlings appear above the ground. This means that it is already too late to fertilize bulbs in the spring, the start is missed, and fertilizers will not play a big role in their development.

As a fertilizer, humus, compost, ash mixed in water, as well as diluted liquid humate fertilizers, preferably with trace elements, are suitable. You can make them in aggregate, but in advance, a month before planting.
If you have to fertilize on the day of planting, then you should limit yourself to a humus solution and humate fertilizer. Ash on the day of planting is not worth making.
You can grow bulbs and with the help of ordinary humus or compost. In this case, fertilizer in the amount of 2-3 buckets per 1 m² should be applied for digging 2 months before planting with several subsequent waterings so that the earth has time to settle.

Features of planting bulbs in the fall

After flowering, it is necessary to remove the ovaries so that energy is not wasted on the formation of seeds.
Let the stems of the flowers remain, as any green part of the plant helps to store nutrients.
In no case should you cut off the faded bulbous leaves and tie them in a knot so that they dry quickly.
The time to harvest the bulbs will come when the leaves of the plants begin to dry.

Small-bulbous plants are carefully dug up, cleaned of earth and old roots, dried in a ventilated room.
Crocus corms and white flower bulbs, pushkinia and chionodoxes can be stored in the same room until planting.
White flower, crocus, muscari, blueberry, pushkinia and hionodox - these do not need to be dug up every year. They can grow in one place for 5-8 years.

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For more information on how to store perennial flowers dug up for the winter, read the article:

3. Transfer to a new place

Muscari bulbs, and sprouts after two or three days of drying, it is better not to delay, plant in a new place.
If there is a need for more long-term storage, you can put them in wet clean sand or peat, otherwise they will dry out.
It is better to dig daffodils every 3-4 years. Tulips and hyacinths will have to be “tinkered with” annually, otherwise there will be no good flowering.
The exception is wild-growing species of tulips.

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Read more about the timing, rules and preparation for planting tulips in October-November in the article:

Imperial hazel grouse does not like waterlogging.
For planting, choose a place where the water does not stagnate in the spring. Pour more sand under the bottom of the bulb and on top.
The bulb itself is planted slightly at an angle, not vertically.
Landing distance - 40-45 cm.

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For more information about the autumn planting of the imperial hazel grouse, see the video:

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5. Landing on high ground

In autumn and winter, the ground under the bulbs should be wet, and above them - dry. This can only be achieved by planting bulbs that are vulnerable to overwintering on higher ground.

We make an embankment for the bulbs with the addition of a significant amount of sand, trying to observe the “mountainous principle”.
Given that the planting depth can be 5-10 cm, the bulb will always be above the standing water level, even in a wet winter.
Plus, you can put fallen leaves, hay, sawdust, peat, or just earth.

6. Shelter when landing

When planting bulbs in the autumn, there is always a chance that they will germinate prematurely, before the onset of frost. And here the layer of insulation plays a disservice.

The fact is that since green seedlings were born, they must carry out photosynthesis both in late autumn and early spring.
If they rest against a thick layer of insulation and cannot penetrate it, then there is a high probability that they will swell.
In addition, in the spring, when the insulation is removed, the surviving shoots will inevitably be broken.

Three exits:

make the insulation layer thin, within 5 cm (moreover, it is better to use hay, it is easier to break through seedlings than foliage);
lay out the insulation just before the frost.

Make sure that the snow covers the area early. To do this, you can make snow retention in the form of shields and simply spread out branches and tops. This will be the best cover.

Almost all spring-flowering bulbs winter well, so they do not need special shelter.

It is better to plant lilies at a depth of 10 cm and put more insulation on top - they will have the desired thickness of the protective layer above them.
There is no need to cover tulips, daffodils, crocuses with a layer of insulation - their bulbs winter well.
Only tulips (except botanical ones) and hyacinths need annual digging.

It is important to remember that the frost resistance of the bulbs is highly dependent on whether the bulb remains on permanent place or dug up for transplantation.
It has been proven by experience that bulbs that have not been dug out can withstand frost better.

When placing the bulbs in grooves or nests, you need to fill them with crushed earth (mulch), and not with large lumps, so that the earth lies tightly around them, without voids.
Sowing must be shed to compact the soil.

9. Top dressing in the spring

In the spring, after the snow melts, be sure to feed the bulbs with a complete fertilizer for flowers and additionally with urea.
Then abundant and bright flowering will not keep you waiting.

Autumn - the time of planting in the ground of most bulbous, small-bulbous and corms flowering plants. Before planting in the ground, it is imperative to carry out sorting, careful sanitary control and, if necessary, disinfection of planting material. To do this, use solutions of the drug "Maxim", potassium permanganate, table salt, carry out dusting with ash or use other means.

An important role is played not only by the range and quality of planting material, but also by the choice of planting site, the composition and structure of the soil. Great importance have specific climatic conditions and depending on them landing time. Therefore, all the dates for planting bulbs are so often shifted.

Kandyk, or "dog fang" (Erythronium). This unusual plant is grown on light soils with an acidic reaction in shading. Bulbs begin to be planted and replanted in August in order to have time to finish planting before September 10th. At the same time, it is important not to overdry them. In the spring, kandyk cannot be transplanted.

Crocus spring, or saffron (Crocus vernus). August - September is the time of planting spring-blooming crocuses. When planting corms in autumn, they will bloom in April - early May of the next year. "Indian Summer", in my opinion, are the most suitable days for such work. I have repeatedly violated these deadlines on the most different reasons. Crocuses reacted calmly to the change in the "schedule". In passing, it is worth noting that autumn-flowering crocuses (bloom from September to early October of the current year) are planted in July - the first days of August.

Lily (Lilium). It is hardy (except for large-flowered oriental hybrids) the plant is best grown on light loam, sandy soils(with the addition of leaf humus) and well-cultivated garden soils. Most lilies are comfortable on neutral or slightly acidic soils. Slightly dried lily bulbs are reanimated if they are sprinkled with damp (but not wet) soil or peat for a couple of days. You can put the bulbs on the ground and cover them with damp burlap on top.

Coarse-grained sand must be poured into the landing pits at the bottom. If species with supra-bulbous roots are planted, then a deeper soil is prepared for them in advance. landing pit. The planting depth of such lilies is 20–22 cm. Lilies with subbulbous roots are planted to a depth of 10–12 cm. The bulbs of tall lilies have to be deepened by 15 cm. It is planted very shallow: so that the top of the bulb is close to the surface of the soil.

Lilies are planted and transplanted from the first half of August to the end of September (average terms). In the conditions of the Moscow region, it is better to complete the work before the end of the first half of September. At the same time, families of overgrown lilies are divided and transplanted. All damaged scales of the bulbs are removed. The exception is the white lily. She is planted at the end of August, otherwise she will not have time to spare.

There may be controversy about the need to trim the roots. There are flower growers who remove rotten and shorten living roots. Other hobbyists believe that this may cause a deterioration in lily blooms the next year. I adhere to a compromise option, although in some cases in August I ruthlessly cut off a significant part of the roots. The time remaining until the end of autumn (at least a month) should be enough for the bulb to get stronger and become dense again. Some varieties even manage to form a rosette of leaves, with which they go into the winter.

When transplanting, it often becomes necessary (for a variety of reasons) to delay the landing time. Then the acquired or dug out bulbs are disinfected in any disinfectant composition and slightly dried. Drying is not allowed. To do this, cover the bulbs with burlap or carton box and keep in a cool place.

- the month of reproduction of lilies with bulbs. In some varieties, they are formed in the axils of the leaves. I pour bulbs and small children into grooves with sand (to a depth of 2 cm) and sprinkle with soil.

If there is little snow on the site (for example, it is blown away by the wind), then the place where the lilies are planted is best to be mulched or covered with spruce branches for the winter.

Onion decorative (Allium). I have a beautiful decorative onion with spherical inflorescences growing on my site. He is incredibly prolific. When I was presented with several valuable bulbs, I could not even imagine that in a few years I would mercilessly throw an incredible amount of extra bulbs into a humus heap (the neighbors no longer take). According to the rules, the bulbs are planted in the fall before the onset of frost. Planting depth - three bulb heights. However, practice shows that the onion survives and produces beautiful balls of inflorescences that seem to be shrouded in a light purple haze, even when it is at greater or lesser depths. Straight peduncles manage not to collapse even with a very shallow landing.

Muscari, or mouse hyacinth, viper bow (Muscari). Planting bulbs is recommended from mid-August to mid-September. If weather forecasters promise a warm long autumn, then the dates can be shifted to September - October. Planting depth - 6 - 8 cm, depending on the structure and composition of the soil. It must be remembered that varieties with decorative terry peduncles reproduce only by bulbs, so even very tiny children should be used. There are more heat-loving types of muscari, for example, muscari broadleaf (Muscari latifolium). It is desirable to insulate their landing sites for the winter. Most species are winter hardy.

daffodils (Narcissus). I am in no hurry with planting daffodil bulbs. I have been planting them since the second decade (on). When transplanting with scissors, I boldly shorten the lobe of the roots, turning them into a “brush”. The depth of planting is determined unambiguously: from above there should be no more than two values of the height of the bulb. Strong deepening leads to the appearance of only leaves and "dry" buds. I fill the holes first with sand, and then with soil.

snowdrops, or galanthus (Galanthus). Snowdrops are transplanted after 5 - 6 years. No need to try to do this before flowering ends. When dividing the nests, the bulbs do not need to be dried out, as tender galanthus do not respond well to dehydration. Acquired bulbs should not be flabby or dried out. It is better to plant them in the place where in early spring the first thaws appear.

Many flower growers believe that the snowdrop should be planted from to August, when the primrose is at rest. There are several opinions about when it is better to transplant snowdrops: in August or after flowering has ended (the leaves are still clearly visible).

Pushkinia proleskovidnaya, or Lebanese (Puschkinia scilloides, Puschkinia libanotica). It's cute unpretentious plant planted and transplanted from mid-August to September 10. I sometimes successfully plant pushkinia later. Planting depth - about 5 cm.

grouse (Fritillaria). From mid-August, the turn comes to hazel grouse. I often plant imperial hazel grouse for "Indian summer", and they all bloom beautifully. elegant imperial hazel grouse blooms luxuriously in spring. Its large bulbs are laid obliquely in holes made in the soil up to 20 cm deep. Even in loam, they should not be made less than 15 cm. vertical position the hole in the bulb can quickly become clogged with soil or fill with water, causing rot. Smaller bulbs do not need to be buried more than 10 cm. Imperial hazel grouse is planted in loamy soil, to which humus is added.

Fritillary chess and other undersized (compared to imperial hazel grouse) species are planted to a depth of 8-10 cm. Bulbs are planted in early autumn.

Scylla, or blueberry (Scilla). This charming frost-resistant bulbous plant is planted from mid-August to mid-September. The depth of planting bulbs - 5 - 8 cm. Children are planted more shallowly. Scylla overwinters well without additional insulation. For safety net, landing sites are covered or mulched with compost.

Pushkin (Puschkinia) in the Moscow region blooms early, shortly after the snow melts (-beginning). Pushkinia bulbs are planted in early autumn to a depth of about 5-7 cm.

tulips (Tulipa). Many of the problems of one of the most common plants are associated with improper planting of bulbs or with an unsuccessful planting date. Excessive haste often leads to the appearance of leaves in the fall. We have to figure out how to "hide" them in the ground.

Tulips suffer from planting too deep. Especially on clay soils. Many popular publications recommend a planting depth of 20 cm for tulip bulbs. I have even come across the bold advice to plant bulbs at a depth of 25 cm! And without any reservation about the composition and structure of the soil. I avoid burying tulip bulbs. On improved loams in our area, I consider 10-15 cm to be the optimal depth, depending on the size of the bulb. For insurance against freezing or during a prolonged autumn that provokes premature germination of leaves, you can mulch the soil (the mulch is removed in spring) or use leaves, spruce branches. The most "nimble" are the tulips of the Kaufman group and the Foster group. Tulips can also be attributed to hasty early varieties Greig's groups.

Tulips (in the Moscow region) are planted from the end of the "Indian summer", around the twentieth of September. Of course, these are very average terms.

Chionodoxa (Chionodoxa). This early flowering plant is classified as small-bulbous. Small bulbs with light scales from 1.5 to 3 cm long and up to 1.7 cm in diameter are planted from mid-August to mid-September. When planting, the bulbs are not deepened, the planting depth is about 8 cm.

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Bulb flowers have their own special charm - their leaves and stems are surprisingly tender, smooth and juicy, and the flowers are distinguished by a delicate, fragrant aroma. It is enough to remember how daffodils and hyacinths smell. Bulbous flowers are among the first to bloom, decorating the garden, which has just woken up after the winter cold. Planting bulbous flowers before winter is a guarantee of its spring beauty and brightness, therefore, if you want spring to come on your site as early as possible, flower gardens of bulbous certain varieties need to be dealt with in September. What kind of bulbous flowers are planted with the onset of autumn and how to properly plant?

Small-bulbous, which include scillas, snowdrops, muscari, crocuses are planted in early September, in the southern regions of the country - in October. These plants are very miniature, graceful, they look most impressive in open areas, planted in a group. But the first snowdrop will please you no less than a luxurious flower bed.

The garden can be made beautiful at any time of the year, bulbs will help to make it in early spring if you start planting these flowers in the fall.

Tulips, daffodils, lilies, which have larger bulbs, can be planted at the end of September and until the end of October. It is necessary that the bulb is well rooted so that it has time to form root system, but she did not have time to germinate before the onset of cold weather.

Bulb flowers for the garden can be grown as annuals and perennials. If you don't dig up the bulbs of autumn bulbous flowers after flowering is over and leave them to winter, they will bloom the following year. Although over time, varietal traits will be lost, and the plants will need to be updated.

Bulbous plants grow and bloom when the trees have not yet blossomed, so they can be planted under trees or shrubs. In rockeries or on an alpine hill, crocuses, scillas (better known to us as blueberries) will look especially good.

Bright blooms of blueberries appear when the snow has not completely melted. These first heralds of spring are planted in groups, they look picturesque on mounds and open areas.

Bulbs grow well in fertile soil, where water does not stagnate. If you have clay soil on the site, it needs to be mixed with sand, sometimes drainage of heavy soil is also done. The soil for planting is prepared in a few days - fertilized, watered, compacted, if necessary.

General rules for planting bulbs

Planting bulbous flowers in the fall begins with an inspection of the bulbs. In order for the flowers to grow well and not get sick, you need to pay attention to the condition of the bulbs before planting. If they have minor damage, bulbs can be treated in a solution of manganese, damage sites are also treated with brilliant green. Throw away bulbs with signs of decay or disease, otherwise all the flowers in the garden can get sick.

On the prepared site, the top layer of soil is removed, the bottom can be covered with fine sand, the bulbs are laid out at a small distance from each other. Each bulb should be lightly pressed down and covered with earth. If the soil is clay, for better growth flowers, the soil for backfilling is mixed with humus or peat. Planting sites are mulched, watered, it is better to mark them with pegs so that you do not accidentally dig them up in the spring.

When buying bulbs in an opaque package, you can buy diseased or damaged ones, you can try to cure minor damage with brilliant green or manganese, but ideal for planting - strong and healthy bulbs without sprouts

Planting bulbs in loose fertile soil does not require drainage, it is enough to make a recess, place the bulbs at a certain distance, cover with a layer of soil and water

It is easier to plant bulbs on the lawn - a layer of turf is removed, a bulb is placed in the loosened soil and covered with turf.

It will also be useful material on preparing the lawn for winter:

Overview of the preferences of the most popular varieties

Grows well in loose, well-drained soil and loves full sun. The bulbs are buried 8 cm into the soil layer, the distance between them is 7-8 cm.

Muscari are charming flowers that appear when the snow has not yet melted and continue to bloom when the trees are dressed in foliage. Their graceful inflorescences are a real decoration of the garden.

Crocuses (iris family)

Permeable soil and good lighting are ideal for these flowers. The depth of planting and the distance between the bulbs is the same as when planting muscari.

Crocus bulbs reproduce well and need to be planted every 2-3 years. You don’t need to worry much about planting depth, these flowers deepen perfectly on their own.

Daffodils (amaryllis)

They can grow in partial shade and in the sun, in permeable light soil. Planting time - August-October.

Daffodils do not like to live in manure-fertilized, swampy and highly calcareous soil. The pH of the soil is preferably neutral, but they grow well in slightly acidic soils.

Tulips (lily)

- garden bulbous flowers that never cease to amaze with their perfection and variety of shapes and colors. In addition, they are unpretentious, and they do not require special conditions for flowering and growth.

Tulip bulbs are planted, depending on the size, at a distance of 10-20 cm from each other towards the end of autumn, so that they do not have time to germinate

Lilies (lilies)

The best soil for lilies is fertilized and drained. There are many varieties of lilies, so the planting time, and the distance and depth between the bulbs largely depend on the particular variety.

Lily bulbs should be dense, without sprouts, if there is still a sprout, it must be cut off and the bulb planted deeper

Fritillaria, fritillaria (liliaceae)

Quite a rare plant in our flower beds. Orange fritillaria are often mistaken for lilies. Like all bulbs, it loves drained soil and bright lighting. The bulb is planted at a distance equal to twice its height, these plants look good both single and in a group.

Fritillaria is also called hazel grouse because of the variegated color of the flowers. Drooping inflorescences look unusual, attracting attention

cultivation different varieties bulbous flowers is based on common simple rules, following which you can grow beautiful living decorations for your garden. But there are a lot of new products today, and if you are interested in something, you need to learn more about the rules for caring for a new miracle of selection.

Bulbous varieties of flowers form a separate group of plants, the cultivation and care of which is carried out in a special way. Therefore, the planting of bulbous flowers in the fall should be carried out according to a special technology, so that in next year get strong and lush-flowering plants.

Now it’s clear when you need to plant bulbous varieties of flowers in the fall.

Landing features

Autumn bulbous flowers must be planted according to a certain technology. But in order for the plants to take root in a new place, you need to choose the right site and prepare the ground. If everything is done as it should, then in the spring the first sprouts in the flower bed will appear exactly on time.

Site selection and soil preparation

Choosing a site for cultivation bulbous plants- very milestone. The quality of its implementation directly determines how quickly new residents of the flower bed can sprout after winter. The place is chosen well lit. Cold air masses should not pass through it. Moisture should also not accumulate on the site or groundwater should not come close to the surface.

In order for such flowers to grow in autumn, the soil in which they were planted must be nutritious. Preferably a neutral or slightly acidic environment. Therefore, the ground is prepared in advance. Preparation is carried out 2 months before the expected time of disembarkation. Fertilizer (compost) should be added to the soil, which will correct the acidity of the soil. Also, moisture-retaining and loosening components can be added to the ground.

Landing technology

Bulbs must be protected from pathogenic microflora that lives in the ground. For this, they are processed by special means(fungicides) or a weak solution of potassium permanganate. When the plants are prepared, we can start planting them. Planting bulbous flowers is carried out according to the following technology:

First you need to water the place so that the dry soil is soaked. Watering the soil is only necessary when it is dry;
it is not recommended to loosen the soil, because otherwise, during precipitation, the roots will rise and the flower will turn out to be small and weak;
further, the depth at which the bulb is planted is determined. This parameter depends on the plant variety. General rule: the depth is equal to a third of the height of the bulb. In this case, the width of the hole should be 4 times the diameter. In the case of heavy soils, the depth decreases by several centimeters, and in light soils it increases;
then a furrow is made with a chopper. Bulbs are planted in it at regular intervals (the distance depends on the type of flower). Then planting material covered with earth and in this form it remains to winter.

In some regions with a harsh climate, beds with such plants are covered with material for the winter to protect plantings from freezing. In the spring, when the snow melted, the bed opens.

Knowing the technology described above, planting bulbs in the Moscow region or in any other region will take place without problems.

If you want your garden to become blooming and delight the eye with a riot of colors from the first spring days, you need to start planting in the fall. garden plants. Most bulbous flowers should be planted in the first two months of autumn. It is very important to be in time before frosts. Plants that have overwintered in the ground will not only bloom on time, but will also be stronger, hardened.

If you are an inexperienced gardener, pay attention to bulbous perennials. They are unpretentious, do not require special care and soil.

Bulb flowers: what to plant

Crocuses. The very first to decorate your garden. But they will also quickly fade, like snowdrops. Please note that these are small-bulbous flowers, and they should be planted shallowly - 10 cm.
Tulips. They are considered unpretentious. They look great both in a classic garden and on an alpine hill.
Daffodils. Also early flowers. Some varieties may bloom as early as the first days of spring. Looks great in rustic gardens, lawns and Alpine rollercoaster.
Hyacinths. Lush and double flowers are often grown in containers to brighten up a specific area of the garden. They are planted later, sometimes even in November. The plants are large-bulbous, so the planting depth is up to 20 cm. And they bloom quite early, right after tulips and daffodils.
Buttercups. In Latin they are called ranunculus - small frogs. They love moist soil and in natural conditions are often found near swamps. But beware: these plants are poisonous.
Lilies. Will be the center of your flower bed or even the entire garden. Bulbs are planted quite early, in September, when it is still warm. By the way, you can plant them in the spring. They bloom in the first months of summer.
Irises. These flowers do not like moisture very much. Experienced gardeners It is advised to choose drier soil. They are usually planted in September, and irises bloom in May-June.

Planting flower bulbs in autumn

The ideal time for planting bulbous flowers is warm autumn. AT northern regions- September, and in the south - October and sometimes even November. Before planting, the bulbs should be inspected, damaged removed, and the rest cleaned. Can be processed in a special disinfectant.

The soil before planting should be loosened, fertilized with compost, and clay sand should be added. Main question How deep should the bulbs be planted? Here is a simple mathematical calculation: the height of the bulb must be multiplied by three. This is how deep the hole should be.

Large bulbs are planted in the ground at a distance of 12 cm, small ones - 5-6. This is just a recommendation. Here you can rely on the kind of flower bed you want to create. At the bottom of the hole, you can pour not only sand, but also pebbles. After planting, water.

Where to plant flowers? The main thing is that during the growing season the flowers were in the sun. Small bulbous plants can be identified near deciduous trees. Flowers that are dug up for the summer (for example, hyacinths or tulips) are planted next to annuals or biennials.

If you plant bulbous flowers late, then you need to cover them for the winter so as to create a dry and ventilated atmosphere. In the spring, before flowering begins, the compost or mulch layer should be removed.

By the way, many bulbous flowers can be left in the soil after flowering.

Growing garden flowers at home

And for those who are reluctant to wait for spring, you can try to grow spring primroses on your windowsill. Bulbs can be planted in pots or containers, drainage should be placed at the bottom. You can even create compositions and plant different flowers in one pot. It is important that the pot is spacious, and the bulb does not touch the walls of the pot. Sometimes the pot is even advised to wrap the "insulation".

Large bulbs can be "expelled". This method provides first a cold dark place for the flower, so that the horse system develops, and then a “contrast shower” in the form of a light and warm room. Beginners should try on hyacinths. They are very reliable and predictable - they will definitely grow. If you plant the bulbs in September, then by the beginning of December the shoots will be up to 3 cm, and at Christmas they will bloom. Distillation occurs in cool conditions for about 6-10 weeks. After the flowers are placed for a couple of weeks already in a warmer room, but without light.

For small (and large too) bulbs, the second method is suitable. After planting, the pot must be left outside. And after the formation of buds, bring it into the room. In this case, there will definitely be flowers, but not much earlier than in the garden.

Another unusual way- make a flower sandwich. The bulbs are planted in layers. For example, daffodils are below, tulips are behind them, and crocuses are at the top. The taller the bulb, the earlier it will bloom. For the bulbs themselves, there will be no damage from planting in a layer of earth. Then your spring pot in winter will delight with flowers for several weeks.

No matter how you grow flowers, when flowering is over, do not forget to take care of the bulbs. After all, they can be planted again. Water the plant until the leaves wither. Cut off the flowers, leaving only the flower stalks. The bulbs are taken out of the ground, dried, dead leaves are removed and stored in a cool, dry place until the next planting.