General rules for pruning trees in spring. Pruning trees in spring: how to do it right

Planted a garden but don't know how to prune? Have you bought a cottage with old trees and want to rejuvenate them? Don't know what pruning scheme fruit trees apply in the spring Are you confused in terms and rules? If the answer to at least one question is yes, then you have come to the right place. Especially for you, we have collected information from books on gardening, added recommendations from experienced gardeners to it, brought everything into a readable form, attached photos and video materials. Read and learn with us!

Any pruning is an injury to the tree. It depends on the type and quality of the instrument how quickly it recovers. fruit crop. The smoother the cut, the faster the plant will recover.

garden knife - the main tool;
hacksaw - for cutting thick, old branches;
secateurs.

Get used to working with a garden knife

The secateurs, although cutting branches with ease, compresses the wood, which increases the time for wound healing.

rejuvenating;
sanitary:
formative.

We will consider them in more detail in the course of the article.

Crown formation scheme

The formation of the crown of fruit trees begins from the second year of life and lasts for several years. Any pruning scheme will be difficult if the branches are placed incorrectly. In Russia, two methods are most common: sparse-tiered and untiered.

Consider the first: it is simple, accessible to novice gardeners and suitable for any type of fruit tree.

The first, lower tier is formed even in the nursery, this facilitates the work of a novice gardener. When planting a seedling, you need to cut off all the branches by 1/3. root system damaged when dug up, and such pruning contributes to the harmonious development of the plant. How soon after planting should I start forming the crown?

In the first year, a young fruit tree adapts to new conditions, roots develop, therefore the growth is small. In the second year, the growth of shoots will also be insignificant. From the third year after planting, proceed to the formation of the crown.

With a sparse-tiered system, the crown of a fruit tree consists of a central trunk and 5-6 branches located at different levels. On the right side of the schematic drawing, the structure is visible: each branch of the next tier is in the middle of the angle formed by the lower branches. See the distance between tiers on the left side of the image.

Term	What does
fruit tree stem	The section of the trunk between the root collar and the first branch
Center conductor	Section of the trunk from the first lower branch to the top
The escape	Twig growing from last year's bud
Tops	Shoots growing vertically and reaching a length of up to 2 meters
Escape Competitor	A strong branch growing from a lateral bud slightly above last year's growth
tweezing	Manipulation aimed at stopping the growth of the shoot. To do this, pinch the top with 2-3 leaves.
Fat shoots	Strong tops on the bases of branches that appear when the tree is aging or improperly pruned.

Anti-aging pruning: how to do it right

If a orchard characterized by the predominance of old trees over 30 years old - there is a decrease in yield. In this case, it is necessary, which is carried out according to the following scheme:

Examine the tree, identify dying branches.
At their base, select strong fat shoots.
Step back 1-2 cm from the base of the fat shoot and cut (cut down) the drying branch.
Cover the cut with garden pitch.

It is desirable that there be not one, but several strong shoots near the pruning site: then the wound will heal faster. So that the shoots do not grow much, you need to pinch.

that the process of rejuvenation of an old fruit tree should take place gradually.

If you remove all dying branches at once, the tree may wither. Therefore, experts recommend stretching the rejuvenation for 4 years, performing it in parts. Crown formation in the future is the same as for young tree.

Sanitary pruning of fruit trees - what you need to know

Sanitary pruning is carried out annually in the fall. Its purpose is to remove dried or diseased branches.

Rules for this type of pruning:

remove shoots above the outer bud, skeletal branches - on the ring;
cut diseased and dry branches with a healthy part;
if the branch is located vertically - make an oblique cut;
after trimming is completed, grease all wounds with garden pitch or other putty.

In fact, sanitary pruning reminiscent of partly rejuvenating, partly shaping. The technique and rules are the same.

When and how to prune an apple tree

The answer to the question of which month to prune an apple tree depends on its age. If the tree is young, prune in the spring before buds open. The time depends on the region - approximately the beginning-mid-March. For an adult tree, in which the movement of juice and swelling of the kidneys occur earlier, winter pruning at the end of February.

Rules to follow:

make sure that the thickness of the branches that extend from the conductor is not more than 1/2 of the stem diameter;
too thin branches are also unacceptable;
departure angle 40 0 (it can be corrected, see the figure);
in the lower tier there are no more than 3-4 branches with a divergence angle of at least 90 0 .

Conclusion

The article used the following pruning literature:

Kolesnikov E.V. 'Advice to gardeners' - Moscow: Rosselkhozizdat, 1972 - p.152;
Videnov B.M., Kovachev G.T., Manov S.L. 700 tips for an amateur gardener - 1972.

The early spring of this year left no time for gardeners to trim trees. Is it possible to prune the trees now, or is it already too late, since the sap flow has begun? How to carry out pruning and in what cases can it be avoided? How to properly form the crown of apple and pear trees? We give relevant advice to summer residents.

Often gardeners ask if it is possible to prune trees if sap flow has already begun. The summer resident will have to decide this for himself: it all depends on the condition of the plants. If during the winter some branches broke or the trunk split under the weight of snow, of course, it is necessary, without delay, to put the crown in order. Purposeful pruning during sap flow is hardly worth it.

You should know that pruning trees - not selfish at all. It is quite possible to do without this operation or make it minimal and corrective, if trees are formed correctly from an early age.

In photo 1, you can clearly see how pointlessly they cut off mature tree. Not only was he not formed correctly, but in the future nothing was corrected, but only worsened his condition. Such a strong pruning will cause intensive growth of tops, which will grow in 2-3 years and form new ones, even more high floors awkward crown of the plant. Here it was necessary to completely remove the right competitor or greatly shorten it by transferring it to the lowest lateral branch in order to slow down development and reduce the roll in right side. The left part could be left almost entirely to a reasonable height, cutting off only the very top to reduce the crown.

There are various systems for the formation of fruit trees. The most acceptable for amateur gardening is a free-growing crown with some size restrictions in the future. In the crown, it is necessary to maintain the correct ratio of the central conductor (leader), which should be the only one, and the skeletal branches.

The conductor is necessary for the formation of all tiers of the crown on it, so it must dominate the branches in height and thickness. With age, it is shortened to reduce the crown and better lighting. Skeletal branches should initially be evenly placed on the trunk in height and circumference, without interfering with each other. Compliance with these well-known rules allows you to gradually form the most appropriate for good fruiting crown requiring minimal pruning.

What are the most common gardening mistakes? The main one is related to bifurcation of the trunk when two or even three competitors of the same development strength grow. A break between them is inevitable afterwards, both under the weight of the harvest and natural phenomena. Their bonding is only a half measure. Even if the tissues at the rupture sites grow together, the rupture will still repeat. It is necessary to prevent the appearance of two leaders, otherwise they will pull in different directions. If the bifurcation of the trunk has already occurred, then one must be removed in a timely manner, leaving the strongest.

Gardeners often make a similar mistake due to the fact that after planting, the development of the tree is allowed to take its course. The tree in photo 2 cannot be called abandoned, it is carefully whitewashed. Apparently, the owners are unaware that the bifurcation of the trunk is dangerous. One of the trunks needs to be urgently cut down at the base. Whitewash, by the way, in this situation performs only a decorative function, it is meaningless, since it clogs the stomata on the young bark and disrupts the necessary air exchange.

Dangerous are sharp angles between trunk and skeletal branches. The fact is that the annually growing layers of wood are connected without hindrance at a large angle of departure of the branch from the trunk. That is why the connection between them is strong. Such branches can bend to the ground without damage. But when the branch moves away from the trunk at an acute angle, the layers of wood cannot connect. This is prevented by areas of the cortex that do not grow together at the points of external contact, since the plant tissue (cambium) is located with inside. The bark, sandwiched between the trunk and the branch, becomes a spacer as they thicken. In addition, it begins to rot due to moisture and microorganisms accumulating there, which further reduces the strength of the wood. As a result, fractures are formed.

It often happens that the planted plants are initially completely correct design crowns, but the gardener worsens it with my own hands. It is not clear, for example, why the tree in photo 3 is fenced with a high bar? Possibly for pet protection. But it is clearly seen that the lattice lifts the branches up so that sharp angles of departure from the trunk are formed.

The situation is even worse in photo 4, where the entire crown is tied. You can fix the seedling on a high support by tying only the trunk with a figure eight, and the branches should be allowed to be located separately. AT necessary cases they are bent to avoid the formation of sharp corners.

Crown design is often degraded due to improper planting placement.. For example, if a tree is planted in the corner of the site, at a distance of 1 m from the fence. Here the branches will become crowded over time. But sometimes freely growing trees, as in photo 5, form a one-sided crown. In nurseries, they grow in close quarters, so the crown often develops unevenly.

This is easily fixable: when planting, seedlings should be positioned so that the bare part of the crown is in the most illuminated place, that is, on the south or southeast side. The stem and branches will stretch towards the sun, the crown will gradually level out and branch out in all directions. Kerbovka will also help in this (cuts over some kidneys on the bare part of the trunk).

Sometimes a young tree falls sideways. This situation must be urgently corrected before bud break.

Dig up the ground from the side of the slope according to the level of the crown projection and cut the roots with a sharp shovel so that the tree takes vertical position. The roots will then rise. Under them it is necessary to put a sufficient amount of fertile soil, how to water and refill the settled places with earth (as when planting). Next, you should fix the tree on a firmly driven stake (on the side opposite from the dig), tying the stem to it with a “figure eight” in two or three places. The plant will endure such a half-hearted injury to the roots due to their untouched part.

In order to reduce pruning of trees in the future, it is necessary during the period of active growth of shoots (June-July) regularly inspect trees for tops. This is the name of the shoots of this year, which grow rapidly not at the ends of the branches, but on their stiffened part, most often they stretch vertically upwards. If you notice the appearance of a top in time and simply pinch it off at the point of growth, the wound on the branch will quickly heal, and you will not have to remove useless young shoots in the fall.

N. Efimova Candidate of Agricultural Sciences

Comment on the article "Tree pruning in spring: how to do it right?"

Trees need to be pruned only in the spring in March. Before the start of sap flow. The future development of the crown of your tree and the future harvest depend on this. Pruning is done with secateurs or special saws for wood with small tooth so as not to leave scuff marks on the bark ...

Should trees be pruned in spring? Pruning and treatment of the garden from pests. For apple trees, it should be 30–40 cm. If the growth is greater, then the ends of the branches should be shortened, and the central conductor (trunk) should generally be shortened once a year, allowing it to grow only by ...

Pruning trees in spring: how to do it right? How to properly form the crown of apple and pear trees? Planting fruit trees in spring: 3 rules and 5 myths. And my task is to choose varieties of five apple trees, and two pears and plums each, and plant them in the spring.

Discussion

IMHO, whitening is no longer important, the snow has melted, there is nothing to reflect, it will not burn
you need to put on trapping belts so that all sorts of bugs do not feast on
water abundantly when planting and then also abundantly, but rarely. trunk circle mulch no matter what, it is important not to give life to weeds
cut if not cut by the seller

pruning and whitewashing trees. hi all. we finally organized the clearing of the garden, in the spring we will change all the fences, so we uprooted all the age-old rubbish - the bushes are 15-20 years old, and cut the trees. I have 2 questions for the esteemed audience: 1)...

Pruning apple trees. Smart people, please tell me how to properly prune apple trees (tops and branches growing inside the crown). You can crop at any time, but IMHO best time- the end of winter, when snowdrifts and easy to get anywhere.

Discussion

You can cut it at any time, but IMHO the best time is the end of winter, when snowdrifts are easy to get anywhere. I cut tops all the time, all summer. Previously, I tried to cut the tops "under the root", but now I have read Kurdyumov and leave 2-3 buds in the hope that a fruit will eventually grow from this shoot. The branches must be cut, if not "at the root", then to the kidney, directed in the direction you want.
Read Kurdyumov, "Smart Garden". True, it’s too complicated there, I simplified it a lot for myself. General principle: good thread- this is a branch directed outside the crown, well lit, almost horizontal and not duplicating another.

Pruning trees in spring: how to do it right? Is it possible to prune the trees now, or is it already too late, since the sap flow has begun? Are there unnecessary bars and boards in the yard? I propose to recycle them into the necessary lumber!

and it suits me very much that they block it, namely the terrible morning sun, it was just hot in the apartment until these trees grew. I look forward to when their leaves grow up and the sun will not miss. We also have the first floor, and the neighbor himself quietly chopped everything up and no one told him anything.

Planting a garden is only the first step to harvest. In order for it to bear fruit well and not get sick, pruning of fruit trees is needed. Do it in spring and autumn. Let's talk about spring.

O when cutting a plant, you injure it. Therefore, it is very important to choose the type and quality of the tool that you use. It depends on them whether the tree will quickly recover.

You will need:

garden knife;
hacksaw.

Branches are recommended to be cut with a knife. Secateurs are easier, but they cause more damage: they strongly compress the wood, and then the wound heals longer. In order for the garden to recover faster, the cut must be even. This can only be achieved with a garden knife.

Amateur gardeners often have a question: when to prune fruit trees in spring, is it possible after the start of sap flow? It all depends on the state of your garden. The trunk split, branches broke under the weight of snow? Of course, pruning is inevitable. When there is nothing of the kind, then it is not worth injuring the trees. After all, pruning is not an end in itself. If you form trees according to the rules, you will only need a minimal corrective operation, which you can do without.

Pruning of fruit trees important factor for a healthy and fruitful garden. And you need to do it skillfully. First of all, you should remove the shoots:

which depart from the trunk at an acute angle;
directed to the center of the crown;
which do not bear fruit (top).

There are several rules that professional gardeners always adhere to:

Pruning should start as soon as you sleep. big frosts(most often this is the end of January, the beginning of March). Thus, the wounds will not freeze, and when the sap flow begins, they will heal quickly. The cuts should be even and smooth. They must be lubricated with garden pitch.
You need to cut the shoots above the eyes that grow outward from the crown. Carry out the cut from the inside out.
The branches that are a continuation of the trunk should be longer than the rest.
On weak trees, short pruning is done. Cut off over the second or third eyes.
With strong growth do medium pruning. The branches are cut above the fifth eye.
For vigorous trees, a long pruning is carried out, leaving eight or more eyes.

crown formation

Forming the crown of a young tree can begin in the second year of its life and continue for several years. Fruits on apple trees, pears appear on perennial shoots, and plums, cherries bear fruit already on next year after landing. Knowing this, spring pruning of fruit trees can be done without much damage to the future crop. Untiered and sparse-tiered crown formation systems are widespread. The latter is ideal for cherries, plums, cherry plums. The basis of such a crown is the trunk and up to a dozen side branches that grow from the trunk in tiers at a distance of up to twenty centimeters from each other.

And so, how to properly prune fruit trees in spring and form a crown? Proceed as follows:

The conductor is the central shoot, cut off at about 80 cm from the base. The main thing: up to a dozen buds should remain on the conductor. From them will go new shoots, side branches. This is the first tier.
Next year, remove the branches damaged during the winter, select three or four strong ones. Delete the rest. This is the second tier.
Therefore, according to the principle, form the third tier already in the fourth year.
The tree has reached four meters in height (short fruit trees - maximum), remove the conductor above the upper branch. Thus, stop the growth, completely form the crown of the tree.

Trees should be pruned regularly: once a year or in spring and autumn. At any time, as needed, sanitary or corrective pruning is performed.

Pruning fruit trees in the spring, the timing of its implementation is the end of winter or early spring. This is especially important for apricot, cherry, peach, cherry plum. In summer, pruning is done only to remove tops, branches that contribute to unnecessary crown density.

Description: a - shortening of shoots in the first year; b, c - shaping pruning of crown shoots along a given contour; g - sanitary pruning (removal of dry branches); e - pruning and thinning in order to improve aeration (before and after); e - rejuvenation of old trees.

Pruning mature fruit trees

Your garden is already fruitful. But he, like young trees, requires care and removal of dried or diseased branches. How to prune fruit trees in spring?

The thickened crown of a fruit tree needs to be thinned out. After five years, the conductor is removed. This will limit upward growth. Delete a branch in whole or in part. Partial removal will contribute to the growth of the branch that is located nearby. It is also necessary to cut off diseased, dried branches - the illumination of the crown improves, the fruits are distributed evenly.

Pruning is best done when the tree is at rest, until sap flow has begun.

If the crown is pyramidal (pear - branches grow upwards), the growing branches must be lowered down: those that are directed downwards are left, and those that are upwards are cut off. In other fruit trees, the branches are directed downwards - they need to be lifted: remove those directed downwards.

To rejuvenate a tree, you need to cut upper part trunk and thin out the crown. To do this, remove the old, going inside the crown, branches that are intertwined. A very dense crown, so as not to greatly injure the plant, should not be thinned out overnight, stretch the operation for two to three years.

Pear, cherry, apple pruning schemes

Pruning fruit trees in spring scheme for pears:

In winter, branches freeze and tops appear. They are completely removed or cut.
Pruning too much will weaken the tree and fruit will appear much later than expected. It is better to do a moderate pruning.
It is useful to shorten annual branches slightly. It will only make them stronger.

For cherries, cherries:

In young trees, five to seven strong branches are left, “looking” in different directions. The distance between them is up to 10 centimeters.
All weak branches are removed.
The conductor should be longer than the rest by 20 centimeters.
Cherries and sweet cherries are pruned only in spring.

For apple trees:

Before you start pruning, you need to clean the trunk, the main branches of the shoots.
Rejuvenate an old plant, increase productivity by removing a third of branches and shoots - the main thing is not to overdo it.
It needs to be pruned over several years.

When working in your garden, consider the experience of other gardeners and do not forget:

When removing branches, do not leave stumps, cut off at the very trunk.
A correctly made cut leaves a trace of a neatly overgrown "ring".
When removing thick branches, first make an inscription from below, and then from above. Thus, the bark will remain intact if the branch falls.
The shoot was removed incorrectly, there is damage - clean it, treat the cut with a var.
With pruning of frozen trees, it is better to wait until next spring.
Fill holes, drill drainage holes it is forbidden.
If there is a danger of branches breaking under the weight of the fruit, do not put props. It is better to cut off part of the fruit. Otherwise, the plant will get used to it and will not be able to hold the branches on its own.

You will learn how to properly cut the plant and not damage it by watching the video at the end of the article.

When pruning, the pruner should be held with the narrow part towards the branch.
If you want to form a lush crown of a young tree, shorten the conductor by ¼.
There should be only one conductor. There are competitors - liquidate.

A year after planting the plant, shorten its trunk by 20 centimeters, and the branches up to 7 centimeters. Please note: the branches at the bottom should be longer.

Spring pruning of fruit trees video

In the spring, summer residents begin to prepare for the new season. This is the most stressful time of the year, which requires gardeners and gardeners to pay considerable attention to their plots. Pruning trees in the spring allows you to form the crown correctly, creating conditions for bountiful harvest fruits in summer and autumn. Features of this procedure will be discussed below.

Procedure value

Every gardener dreams of getting stable high yields of fruit for a long time. To do this, plants need to provide proper care, the most important part of which is correct pruning fruit trees in spring.

By and large, such a procedure can be carried out not only in preparation for the new summer season, but also in the fall. Sometimes, if there is an urgent need, such work is carried out in the summer. However, pruning in the spring is especially important to regulate fruiting and improve the quality of the crop. The procedure should be carried out very carefully, taking into account all the subtleties and observing all the rules, otherwise the tree may weaken, stop bearing fruit or even die.

Proper spring contributes to the rejuvenation of plants, their rehabilitation (getting rid of diseased and dried branches), the rational formation of the crown, in which each shoot receives a maximum of air and light.

The presented procedure allows you to grow trees of the desired size with strong healthy branches that can withstand the heavy weight of the fruit.

Event dates

To achieve maximum effect From the procedure, it is important to know when to start pruning trees in the spring. After all, if you start it too early, during a period when severe frosts can still return, the tree may not endure them. And if you delay the performance of this work until the sap flow, it will “cry” for a long time. Next, you can watch a video about pruning trees in the spring. For beginner gardeners, this information will definitely come in handy.

Ideal conditions to start such a process, clear weather with an air temperature of at least -5 ºС is considered. Usually this weather is set at the end of February. In some regions, such an opportunity is provided only in March. In more northern regions tree pruning dates in spring are adjusted depending on climatic conditions.

If the trunk is split, there are broken or diseased branches, you will have to cut them off at any time. In the absence of such extreme circumstances, it is better to carry out the procedure in accordance with all the rules, bearing in mind that such actions injure the plant, which means they should take place with minimal discomfort for the tree.

Tools

That is why a very important issue in the procedure for pruning fruit trees in the spring is the correct selection of tools and their quality. In order for the plants to recover as quickly as possible after pruning, the cut must be perfectly even. That's why experienced gardeners It is advised to carry out all actions with a sharply sharpened garden knife.

In the process of carrying out the work, you will need a secateurs. It is advisable to buy a tool without a ratchet.

For pruning trees in spring and not only you will need This is a hacksaw, which is characterized by a special profile, tapering at the end. It is strictly forbidden to use a conventional construction saw instead.

And another must-have tool is a pruner for trimming the upper branches. It is mounted on a long cane and actuated from a distance.

All tools must be well sharpened and disinfected. For more quality sharpening you can pre-soak them in salt water by dissolving one tablespoon of salt in a glass of water. After each trimming, the tools must be cleaned and wiped with a cloth soaked in technical oil.

Knowing when to prune trees in the spring can help you prepare everything you need ahead of time. You should also stock up on garden pitch. This is a special substance for processing sections.

Varieties of methods

Depending on the goal pursued by the gardener, pruning fruit trees in the spring it is directed:

For crown formation. As a result, it acquires the necessary silhouette, and the density of shoots decreases.
To preserve the already formed crown, freeing it from unnecessary shoots.
For the rejuvenation of old trees. This procedure is carried out if the growth of new shoots per year is less than ten centimeters. It stimulates the renewal and growth of new branches.
To restore the ability of affected trees to bear fruit.
To reorganize the plant, freeing it from dry and diseased branches.

In doing so, different methods are used. You can shorten the shoots in different ways. The listed methods are chosen in accordance with the goals that the gardener has set for himself. it effective procedures which help keep trees healthy and strong.

young trees

Pruning of young trees in spring is aimed at forming their crown. This procedure is carried out in the second year of the plant's life and continues for several years. How to do it? Further in the video about pruning trees in spring, novice gardeners will find all the necessary information.

The central shoot is cut at a height of approximately 0.8 m from the base, leaving at least ten eyes on it, from which young branches will subsequently grow. Thus the first level is formed.

The following year, up to four strong branches are left, and the rest are removed. This will be the second level. Do the same the next year, forming the third layer. When the tree reaches four meters in height, the extra trunk should be removed. It is higher than the upper side branches. This will stop vertical growth and the crown will be fully formed.

mature trees

in need of correct formation crowns and mature garden trees. First of all, diseased and dried branches are removed. They thin out the thickened crown of trees, which helps to improve illumination, more even distribution of fruits.

Carrying out such work will help to properly form the crown of the tree. For example, in a pear, the branches grow upwards. So, the growing shoots need to be directed down. To do this, cut off the shoots, the direction of which is determined towards the sun. Those branches that bend down to the ground are left. With trees whose branches are directed downwards, the opposite is done.

In addition, pruning fruit trees in the spring helps to rejuvenate them. To do this, cut out the part of the trunk that forms the tip. At the same time, the crown is thinned out, removing old, intertwined shoots. If the tree is very dense, it is not necessary to remove many of its sprouts at one time. Otherwise, the plant is seriously injured. It is better to do this for several years.

Apple tree

Begin pruning trees in the spring with pome crops. These primarily include apple trees. The first such procedure is carried out immediately after landing. The young seedling is shortened to a height of just under 100 cm.

From the side shoots choose a few of the strongest. They are usually directed in different directions. Such branches are shortened by a third or a quarter. In the absence of such branches, this operation is postponed to the next year.

Subsequent similar work is aimed at removing all dried and defective shoots, as well as branches that grow inward. The skeletal branches are cut so that they are 23-28 cm shorter than the central column, and the lower branches are longer than the upper ones.

Pear

The scheme for forming a pear is similar to the procedure used for an apple tree. Immediately after planting, the main trunk is shortened in a young seedling. At the same time, all branches that are located on the sides are removed. Starting from the second year young plant processed so that it turned out several tiers. Each of them includes several skeletal branches. They diverge in a magnificent fan around the center. Each of them should be 23-27 cm below the main shoot.

When performing the presented procedure for an old pear, it is necessary to remove not only all frozen, defective shoots, but also all branches that are on the sides and grow in a vertical plane or bend inward.

Peach

Following pome crops, it is the turn to process stone fruits. For example, for a peach, proper pruning at the time of planting is very important, designed to form a cup-shaped crown with a very low stem. This is necessary so that the fruit-bearing shoots are located low and during severe winters are under a layer of snow to avoid freezing.

Therefore, immediately after landing young seedling it is shortened to a height of about 18-22 cm. A year later, during the spring pruning of trees, all its young sprouts are shortened to three eyes.

In subsequent years, the structure is formed, leaving several skeletal branches. A feature of the peach is that it bears fruit on shoots that are no more than one year old. Therefore, in the process of thinning the structure, you should not feel sorry for last year's branches. Strong fruiting shoots are cut to twenty-five centimeters. During the season, several young new shoots will grow from them, on which fruits will be tied.

To make peaches larger, the one-year growth on which they are tied should be shortened by one third. Skeleton-forming branches are shortened by a kidney to direct their growth in the right direction. And of course, the spring procedure includes the removal of damaged, frozen and defective branches.

Cherry and sweet cherry

The creation of the correct structure of the branches of y is allowed only in spring period. In young plants, up to six strong branches are left, growing in different directions. The main trunk should be twenty-five centimeters longer than the rest.

Shoots need to be thinned out. All dry and bare shoots are cut into a ring. To form the correct structure, strong shoots are shortened by a growing bud. On a well-formed tree, skeletal branches grow at an angle of at least 45º to the trunk. By following the above recommendations about the trimming procedure garden trees spring, you can achieve significant results.

Pruning fruit trees in the spring requires certain theoretical knowledge from the gardener. Experienced summer residents they say that you need to cut the branches at the very trunk, leaving no hemp. The cut must be smooth. It is necessary to leave a trace of a neatly overgrown ring.

If it was not possible to remove the shoot correctly, without damage, the cut point must be cleaned and treated with garden pitch. When removing thick branches, you must first make a notch at the bottom, and then from above, so that the falling branch does not damage the tree bark.

If the plant is frozen over during the winter, it is better to postpone the procedure until next spring. It is impossible to drill drainage holes in the trunk, as well as fill hollows. When pruning trees in the spring with a pruner, it must be kept with a narrow part towards the branch.

These simple tips will help even a novice gardener to perform the procedure correctly. Yields will be high and trees will feel healthy.

In March - it's time to take care of trees and shrubs: whitewash trunks, cut dry branches, treat wounds, bites and frost holes, raise shelters above ornamental shrubs, shade the conifers, spray the plants with pesticides.

The best pruning time in middle lane- early spring before the swelling of the kidneys (March, April). Pruning should be completed just before the swelling of the kidneys.

Inventory. Hand pruner with short handles, hand pruner with long handles, rod pruner various designs, garden saws, garden knives, garden ladders.

Trimming methods. In the practice of horticulture in young and fruit-bearing plantations, mainly two main methods of pruning are used: shortening, in which the branches are reduced in length, and thinning, when they are cut out entirely. (fig.1) .

If, when shortening the part to be removed is less than 1/3 of the cut branch, shortening is considered weak; trimming by 1/3 length - medium shortening; removing more than half the length of a branch is a severe shortening.

On annual branches the cut is made over the kidney, in perennials - over some branch - the so-called pruning for translation. Pruning for translation is done if it is necessary to change the direction of branch growth (Fig. 6), limit the size of the tree, lighten the crown, when rejuvenating and in a number of other cases.

The response of a tree to shortening and thinning has significant differences. Cutting branches more strongly activates vegetative growth than thinning. The strength of shoot growth after shortening of branches and the number of germinated buds that give rise to side shoots depend on the degree of their shortening, the variety and age of the tree.

With a strong shortening of annual branches it is formed, as a rule, 3-4 or more, with a weak one - the number of shoots is less and their length is shorter.

Proper use of pruning improves the lighting conditions in the crown, increases the fruiting period, stimulates the emergence of a large number of annual shoots and young fruit formations, makes it possible to harvest annually, improves the quality of fruits.

When pruning a young, fruitful and old garden, there are differences in the tasks.

The main task of the gardener when pruning of a young tree is to form a crown according to one selected type. In the fruit-bearing garden, the tree has already been formed and the task now is to prevent the growth and fruiting from fading.

During the period of aging with the extinction of fruiting and withering away of parts of the crown, pruning is carried out to create a new crown from well-developed and conveniently located new branches.

thinning It mainly affects the improvement of illumination and the increase in the productivity of fruit twigs inside the crown.

Orchard pruning technique

Cut on the kidney, (Fig. 2) It is mainly used for shortening annual branches. The correct cut for the kidney should have a slope of about 45 °, the lower edge of the cut should be slightly above the level of the base of the kidney (by 2 mm, no more), and the upper one should be just as high as its top.

Don't cut too low, as the wound will be elongated, as a result of which the kidney will dry out or give a weak shoot. If the cut is too high, the spine will dry out and will prevent the wounds from healing.

Shortening one-year growth should be done on a well-developed kidney, directed in the direction necessary for the crown.

To expand a too compressed crown, cut to the outer kidney, i.e. make a cut over the kidney, which is located on the outside of the branch. On the contrary, a drooping crown or a separate branch is cut to the inner kidney.

Cut into a ring, (Fig. 3) When thinning, branches are cut above the annular influx at their base. This contributes to the rapid healing of wounds. Leaving small stumps or making cuts is not recommended.

Trimming for translation, (Fig. 4 and 5) It is used mainly on perennial branches when it is necessary to change the direction of growth of a branch or to shorten its length. When pruning in this way, do not leave stumps or cut too low. The cut should have a slope of about 30 degrees. in the direction opposite from the branch to which the transfer is being made.

Combining this pruning with the usual shortening of the branches, strong growths are turned into fruit-bearing branches.

small branches shorten or cut into a ring with a garden knife or pruner. When cutting, the branch to be removed is slightly bent in the direction opposite to the beginning of the cut. During pruning with secateurs, distortions and turns should not be allowed. The wide and sharp part of the pruner should always be turned to the remaining part of the branch.

Cannot be installed from top to bottom, since in this case the shoot is not cut off, but breaks off at the place of trimming.

Large branches should be removed with a sharp file. A not very large branch is sawn off, supporting it with a hand. So that there is no bullying of the bark, after which the wound is difficult to heal, first they make a cut from below, and then they saw from above. A large heavy branch, to prevent tearing, is removed in several steps (fig.7) .

First they drink from below at a distance of 25-30 cm from the base of the branch by 1/3 of the diameter. The second cut is made from above 3-5 cm closer to the base of the branch than the first. The rest of the branch (stump) is sawn out along the annular influx, supporting it with a hand.

Strongly weakened, and then the main skeletal branches get sick and the central conductor, if several large wounds are applied to them in a row. When pruning mature trees, cutting of skeletal branches should be avoided, as this can lead to the formation of hollows. Dry branches must be cut to a healthy place, otherwise the wound does not heal.

The quality of pruning significantly affects the condition of fruit trees. Uneven uncleaned cuts on the branches, formed as a result of the use of blunt garden saws, breaks, tearing of the bark and deformation of annual growths when pruning them with an unsharpened pruner, improperly cut branches (above or below the growth ring) - weaken the tree and do not contribute to wound healing.

To avoid negative consequences pruning must be done with sharply sharpened garden tools.

After trimming all sections with a diameter of more than 1 cm must be covered with garden pitch. Wounds should be smeared immediately or after 1-2 hours, but no later than a day from the moment of trimming.