Why do young trees dry up in spring? Why do apple and pear trees dry up. Young and seedlings

Many summer residents are concerned about the question of why raspberries dry. It is known that raspberries are a low-hardy crop. In Siberia, raspberries (and blackberries) winter well only under snow. In addition to freezing, it suffers from aging and drying up of tissues. To save the crop, you need to take action: water, protect from the cold, replace the variety, transplant raspberries, cut and properly care for.

When do raspberries dry?

Raspberry stalks dry in autumn and winter, when the temperature jumps and can drop sharply when cold winds blow on bare shoots.

5 reasons why raspberries dry

In autumn, with a sharp change in weather: early snow, which then melts, rain with snow.
In autumn, with a sharp drop in temperature to 20°C.
In places with little snow, if winter is accompanied by strong winds.
During thaws, as well as from strong winds when the shoots thaw and the soil remains frozen.
With early snow melting, as a result of strong wind drying of both shoots and soil.
In spring, drying occurs due to low humidity and strong winds.

The most affected are:

weakly ripened shoots,
new plant with weak roots (especially if the plants were not watered immediately after the soil thawed),
old bushes.

How do raspberry shoots dry?

If the raspberry bushes dry, they grow late and slowly, the entire shoot dies or a significant part of it - up to 100%.

The outer integumentary tissues may crack along the entire length of the stem (or partially),
the exposed cambial zone is green but dry;
the buds are also green, but dry, do not develop.
The wood of the shoots does not turn brown, as happens when it freezes.

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What to do if raspberries dry?

1. Water

Raspberries are an exceptionally moisture-loving crop; irrigation is important in agricultural technology.

Raspberries are watered often - as the topsoil dries up.
Raspberries should be watered especially often immediately after planting and in spring, regardless of temperature.

2. Replace variety or transplant

If the withering happens systematically -

replace the variety
or choose another site.

Varieties of large-fruited raspberries with thornless shoots suffer more from drying out.

Of the large-fruited varieties, varieties were resistant to desiccation. Beauty of Russia And burly . More about Top 30 large-fruited varieties raspberries read in

Of the varieties with prickly shoots, they proved to be resistant old varieties of Altai selection , from large-fruited - yellow giant And Phenomenon .

3. Trim and shape

If the case is episodic -

in the spring, as early as possible, the bushes are watered to accelerate regrowth.
After watering, the unrestored aerial part is removed,
form new shoots
raspberries should be watered in dry weather and fed with complex fertilizer.

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As such, it was not, the lion's share of the site was planting, and the beds and fruit trees could only divide the space around the house. In the front garden, as a hedge, penetrating the old picket fence with elastic branches, they grew by themselves, and behind them, closer to the house, several cherry trees.

These few trees gave us a modest but steady harvest of fragrant sour northern cherries. This happened from year to year, and seemed unshakable and familiar. At the same time, I do not remember that my grandmother somehow looked after cherry trees. They, like currants, lived next to us with their independent lives.

Subsequently, planting apple and cherry seedlings on my site, I expected the same result. Alas, this did not work out. Very often in the spring I have to observe a sad picture - some young fruit tree does not wake up after a winter sleep, or, waking up and starting to bloom small leaves, suddenly dries up on the vine. This is what happened this spring. Another cherry did not wake up, and out of the four varietal cherries planted, now I have only one tree left.

cherry with live buds

The issue became acute, and it was no longer possible to postpone the search for a way out of the current situation. An attentive reader of the Green Blog could not fail to notice that the main idea of my articles is the idea of the inadmissibility of using any artificially created chemicals. But, all the sources that I got acquainted with, trying to understand how to prevent, spoke about one thing: it would not be possible to do without chemistry.

And this tree died, the buds are dry, inanimate

I realized that in my case it was most likely a monilial burn. I confess, I made a decision and settled on Horus, which has not only a therapeutic effect, but also a preventive one. The manufacturer claims that it does not harm bees, but is dangerous for fish if it enters water bodies. In addition to monial burn, this drug helps protect fruit trees from fruit rot, clusterosporiasis, coccomycosis, alternariosis, scab and powdery mildew. Horus can be used in wet, humid weather (but not in the rain) and low air temperature, in addition, two hours after treatment, the drug is not washed off by rain.

So I sprayed cherries, plums, young apple trees, cherry plums and sea buckthorn. After 10 days, the treatment will need to be repeated. I will be able to tell about the results of the work done only in a year. I really hope that the losses in my garden will stop.

Why do fruit trees dry out?

Drying out is a fairly common occurrence, which, as a rule, leads to the death of individual branches or the entire tree. There are many reasons for desiccation. Therefore, it is impossible to name one of them without specifying the details related to the conditions of planting, growth and phytosanitary condition of fruit trees.

The drying of young trees in the first year after planting is most often associated with the quality of seedlings, poor planting conditions and the survival period.

Often the trees dry up because the roots of the seedlings were very weak or dried, and after planting they did not provide the flow of water and minerals to the developing above-ground organs.

It also happens that the roots of the acquired seedlings were normal, but you were delayed with planting and did not ensure the safety of the root system. Therefore, both autumn and spring planting it is desirable to carry out as soon as possible, and if this fails, then dig the seedlings in moist soil or cover with wet material.

Poor quality seedlings can be purchased unknowingly from unscrupulous sellers, especially during spring sales. planting material, not sold out since the fall.

Quality seedlings most often take root poorly and dry out for the following reasons:

* After planting, there was no proper watering or natural soil moisture. In this case root system not able to provide the necessary moisture for blossoming buds and growing shoots;

* with early spring or late autumn planting Roots sank into cold soil. In the spring, the buds begin to bloom, and the roots are not yet functioning. A moisture deficit is created for the growing aerial part. Watering with warm water can help in such a situation;

* planting was carried out on poor, infertile soils in poorly prepared landing pits. You need to know that planting pits must be of appropriate size for each fruit crop and filled with fertile soil mixed with humus or compost. Sometimes, when determining the reasons for the drying of young trees, it turns out that they were planted in small pits covered with the same dry soil. In fact, "stuck in the ground."

The drying up of young, older and fruit-bearing trees is also a very common phenomenon. It can be transient, when individual skeletal branches or the entire tree die in a few weeks, or one growing season, and chronic, in which gradual drying occurs over several years.

The initial causes of fruit drying can be divided into non-infectious and infectious.

The most common non-infectious causes are:

Planting fruit trees in areas with high level occurrence ground water. At the same time, trees on tall rootstocks dry first and drying comes from the apical parts of the crown. In the first years after planting, trees can grow and develop normally. When the roots reach groundwater, the bulk of the suction part of the roots begins to experience oxygen deficiency and dies. It happens that the initially normal level of groundwater rises after irrigation work carried out near the plantings (construction of artificial reservoirs or filling existing ones with water);

Gradual salinization of the soil due to irrigation with mineralized underground and waste waters. In this case, the drying process proceeds in much the same way as with a high occurrence of groundwater. Only the death of the roots occurs due to the excess content of salts in the water (0.15-0.25% or more);

Poor growing conditions for fruit trees: very poor and dense long time soil, severe drought, prolonged flooding;

Shrinkage often begins due to partial freezing of last year's growth. First of all, incompletely matured and lignified shoots freeze slightly, which are formed due to the lengthening of the vegetation associated with or with increased doses. nitrogen fertilizers, or with a prolonged warm and humid autumn. Sometimes normally mature growth is also subjected to freezing, falling under winter or early spring thaws, when fruit crops winter dormancy ends.

Freezing of bark and wood during the winter leads to chronic gradual drying. In stone fruits, the tree is greatly weakened by long-term gum production.

Infectious desiccation is associated with the development of diseases such as black cancer, cytosporosis, monilial burn, bacterial bark cancer, klesterosporiosis, coccomycosis, verticillium wilt. The symptoms of each of them are specific at the initial and subsequent stages of their development, but the final result is drying out skeletal branches or entire trees.

Often, diseases of infectious drying begin in those parts of the crown that were originally susceptible to such non-infectious diseases as freezing and injury to the bark, sunburn, frost and growth cracks in the bark, dieback. The causative agents of black cancer, cytosporosis, bacterial cancer of the bark, milky sheen infect only the dying tissues of the bark and wood, and then, due to their toxic secretions, penetrate into the neighboring healthy tissue, leading to its death.

To protect fruit trees from drying out, it is necessary to eliminate the causes that cause it. Of these, only the groundwater level and winter weather conditions are beyond the gardener's control.

But if the disease nevertheless manifested itself, it is necessary to immediately cut out the drying parts of the crown (with the obligatory capture of an outwardly healthy area) and create a tree optimal conditions growth.

Y. Stroykov , candidate biological sciences, TSHA, Moscow

(Garden and vegetable garden No. 7-8, 2010)

Twice a year you can eat raspberries. Ripening begins at the beginning of summer, the second stage of fruiting - in September, when you can treat yourself to raspberries until the first frost. The raspberry bush is an unpretentious plant, but it is also susceptible to various diseases . One of the most common is the drying of leaves, berries and shoots. In this article we will try to figure out why the berries, leaves dry and what to do in such cases, what are the methods of treatment.

Causes of drying branches and berries

The drying process is called withering away syndrome. Most young plants are susceptible to it, because with the growth of a shrub, young shoots crack. This contributes to the rapid penetration of insect larvae and phytopathogenic fungi, the main culprits of drying, into the interior of the stem.

Disease caused by the reproduction of phytopathogenic fungi, manifested in the death of the stems in early spring. After winter, infected branches slowly grow back and dry out. If the plant does not have enough moisture, then the process is faster. If you do not take action, you can lose more than half of the stems and ovaries of raspberries.

Stems will crack more if they don't get enough water. Excessive fertilization of the soil with growth accelerators will also affect the integrity of the branches, because they do not have time to turf.

The culprit of infection of raspberry bushes is gall midge. Getting through natural cracks or mechanical damage inside the stem, it lays larvae that feed on the bark of the plant and destroy it. protective layer- periderm. This is the main barrier that prevents the penetration of phytopathogenic fungi into the interior of the plant.

Shoots become a feeding trough for larvae. In place of their greater accumulation, ulcers appear that prevent the spread nutrients throughout the plant. This leads to the death of the upper part of the stem. The disease manifests itself in the form of purple or dark brown spots on the shoots..

Why do berries dry up?

The drying of raspberries is facilitated by various viral diseases that are spread by cicadas and aphids. These sucking insects carry the infection from diseased plants. The diseases are different, but the result is the same for everyone - the drying of the berries.

With viral chlorosis of the berry develop poorly, do not have time to gain juice and color, and eventually dry out.
With a yellow mosaic if the berry does not completely dry out, then it develops unilaterally and has a dryish, insipid taste.

Curly characterized by underdevelopment of berries and their drying. Bushes infected with this virus die within a few years.

First of all, diseases affect the crop. The one-sided development of berries, their shedding and drying should be a signal for the start of emergency action.

Why do leaves dry and curl during fruiting?

Viral and bacterial diseases of raspberries, spread by flying insects, provoke the drying of the leaves, even during fruiting. Diseases that affect berries primarily affect the condition of the leaves and their development. The same viruses bad influence per plant and yield:

Viral chlorosis. Infected leaves begin to turn yellow, dry and curl in the midst of growth and flowering along with berries, shoots become small compared to healthy ones.
yellow mosaic. This disease is characterized by yellowing leaves with twisted dry edges. It is an insect-borne virus that appears in late spring and mid-August.
Curly. You can distinguish healthy shoots from diseased ones by several signs:

slowdown growth;
thickening in diameter;
leaf color change to brown;
reduction in leaf size and their drying.

What is chlorosis and how to treat it

A disease that is often infected with a raspberry bush is chlorosis. His by nature of origin are divided into:

What does a bush affected by this virus look like:

turning yellow first in the center, then the whole leaves;
shoots are thinning and pulled out
berries or not formed at all, or half matures, and the other half dries.

Chlorosis should be dealt with immediately after planting. For this, there is a whole a range of products for spraying the plant and protecting it from sucking insects. If you want to harvest this year, then you should process in 2 stages:

In early spring, before bud break, use a 3% solution of Nitrafen or a 0.2% solution of Nicotine sulfate.
Before flowering emulsion of 30% Methylmercaptophos.

Before raspberries begin to ripen after spraying, at least 45 days must pass.

If chlorosis was provoked by unfavorable weather conditions, watering cold water or lack of organic compounds, you need to try improve the quality of plant care:

normalize watering warm water , it is better if it is river or lake, heated in the sun;
make the soil more fertile through the application of mineral fertilizers;

soften the ground forest floor or peat.

Remember that it is easier to protect against the disease than to cure later.

How to protect raspberries from pests and diseases

Mulching is one way to protect. By protecting the roots of the plant, such a surface layer will allow the plant to get stronger and push back the process of cracking the stems when they become resistant to the disease. The mulch layer must be removed when the first buds appear. The soil under it is always saturated with moisture, this can cause rotting, death of the kidneys and eventually drying out.

Mulching is one of essential conditions preparing the plant for winter. It prevents freezing of roots and shoots, prevents the evaporation of moisture and protects against constant winds in some regions.

If you cut off the damaged stems in time, you can save part of the shrub. You need to cut off all areas covered with dark spots and small growths.. It will be better to remove the entire "sick" shoot completely.

Let the bush grow stronger and grow, spraying will help, which must be carried out during the period rapid growth , at the beginning and in the middle of summer. The lower part of the plant is processed, from the ground level by 25 - 30 cm upwards. Mixtures "Aktellik" - 0.2%, "Fufanon" - 0.3% and "Topaz" - 0.1% are suitable for this. Fruiting raspberries should be sprayed with the same preparations before flowering and after harvesting. To preserve the integrity of the berries, after flowering, 3 treatments with the Fitoverm biological product - 0.3% with an interval of 1 week should be carried out.

Proper planting of young plants

How new bushes are planted will depend on their resistance to gall midge larvae and viral diseases.

Young plants should be planted away from old bushes, which can be infected with larvae and fungi.

It is necessary to wash the roots under the pressure of water and wash all the soil from them. It is recommended to dig a small hole nearby, where water and soil residues will drain. The roots may contain unhatched gall midge eggs that need to be neutralized, i.e. bury.

Roots should be placed on a hard surface or placed in metal mesh so as not to damage.

After landing completely cut raspberry stalks even if you plant in the spring.

If possible, raspberries should be covered with non-woven material to prevent infection with viral infections that are carried by flying insects.

Spray once every 2 weeks Bordeaux mixture or other raspberry-approved chemicals. During this period, it is not a high yield that is important, but the strengthening of the stems and protection from pests and diseases.

Record Why raspberries dry and what to do? first appeared Pro Farm.

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