How to protect flowers in a flower bed from infection with powdery mildew. Plant Diseases - Powdery Mildew (Treatment and Prevention)

Powdery mildew disease causes a lot of trouble for the owners of garden and garden plots. This disease strikes vegetable crops, and fruit trees and shrubs. It is not easy to prevent its appearance, it is even more difficult to get rid of it in order to save infected plants. But before using certain preparations for powdery mildew, you need to make sure that it is she who is the cause of the problems that have arisen.

Signs of powdery mildew damage

Powdery mildew's calling card is a whitish-gray coating. Thin and like dust at the beginning, it gradually begins to thicken and blacken over time. Small brown balls form on the upper side of the leaves. Diseased leaves dry up, the shoots are bent at the ends, darken and die.

Fresh horsetail grass - 100 grams;
- water - 1 liter.

Horsetail is poured with water and kept for a day. Then boil on fire for two hours. Then they cool and filter. The resulting concentrate can be stored in a cool and dark place for about a week. Before spraying, the product is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:5. Processing is carried out three to four times every five days.

4. Solution blue vitriol with soap:

Copper sulfate - 5 grams;
- soap - 50 grams;
- water - 5 liters.

Soap is dissolved in warm water. Vitriol is diluted separately using a glass of hot water. A solution of vitriol is carefully combined with soap, pouring in a thin stream and constantly stirring. The resulting emulsion is treated with affected plants several times at weekly intervals.

5. mustard solution:

Mustard powder - 2 tablespoons;
- water - 10 liters.

Mustard is stirred in warm water. After cooling, you can either spray or simply water the plants.

Ash - 1 kilogram;
- water - 1 bucket.

Water is heated to about 40 ° C and ash is poured into it. The solution is thoroughly mixed and infused for about a week. After that, they are drained, separating and removing the ash suspension collected at the bottom. Before spraying, add a little soap to the solution. It is necessary to process every other day or daily.

7. Infusion of rotted cow dung;

rotted manure - 1 part;
- water - 3 parts.

Manure is poured cold water and leave to infuse for at least three days. Before spraying, dilute with water twice.

8. Garlic infusion:

Garlic - 50 grams;
- water - 2 liters.

The garlic is crushed and dipped in cold water. After standing for a day, drain and filter. The solution is used for spraying undiluted.

9. Copper sulfate and soda ash:

Copper sulfate - 80 grams;
- water - 10 liters;
- soda ash - 50 grams;
- water - 10 liters.

In the spring, even before bud break, they are sprayed with a solution of vitriol, and after flowering is over, with soda ash.

10. Colloidal sulfur solution:

Sulfur - 40 grams;
- water - 10 liters.

The tool is well suited for spraying currants during periods of its growth. But we must remember that it can not be used for gooseberries.

Special chemicals for powdery mildew

« Topaz "- a popular systemic fungicide used to treat and prevent fungal diseases. The active substance is penconazole. For spraying currants, gooseberries, grapes, cucumbers and strawberries, one ampoule is diluted in 10 liters of water. For flowers and potted crops - in 5 liters. Spray only with a freshly prepared solution, evenly wetting the entire plant. The treatment is repeated after about two weeks. The protective effect lasts up to 14 days. The drug belongs to the third hazard class - toxic to fish, but not dangerous to beneficial insects and birds. It is considered moderately dangerous to animals and humans.

« Tilt CE "- systemic fungicide. Used as a preventive and protective agent. The active substance is propiconazole. Available as an emulsion concentrate. It has a high duration of action, stops the further development of the disease, inhibits the formation of fungal spores. Elevated air temperature favorably affects the work of the drug, enhancing its effectiveness. "Tilt KE" has a high rain resistance, as it quickly penetrates into plant tissues.

A working solution with a concentration of 0.4 to 0.5 ml per liter of water must be prepared immediately before use. It is not recommended for use at air temperatures exceeding 29 ° C, accompanied by a humidity of less than 60%. The protective effect exceeds half a month and begins to appear within two hours after the end of treatment. Dangerous for fish and bees.

To combat the spread of powdery mildew, drugs are also used: Byleton », « Sulfaride », « Fundazol », « Previcour », « Acrobat MC », « Speed », « Vitaros " and others.

Cultures affected by the fungus Peronosporaceae become sticky to the touch, and leaves, berries or buds covered with powdery mildew acquire a bluish coating. Fruits with a touch of leucorrhoea will no longer ripen - they will crack and fall off. The same will happen with flowers if you do not take the necessary measures and protect your plantings.

What does powdery mildew look like

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease. Powdery mildew is caused by ascomycetes. Most often more actively manifested in the spring. Young leaves and tops of shoots on plants are affected first. They are covered with a white powdery coating, stop growing and deform. The plaque becomes gradually thicker and darker. The affected parts of the plants begin to die off, the ovary does not form on them. This disease fruit crops reduces yield by 50-80%, and also reduces their resistance to frost.

Powdery mildew often affects cucumbers, zucchini, squash and pumpkins.

Look at the photo - the leaves affected by powdery mildew turn pale, wrinkle, then darken and dry out:

The stems and young leaves of plants are pale, and the fruits are underdeveloped, ripen earlier than usual and lose their taste. Fungi persist in the soil on plant debris and weeds. More often powdery mildew affects vegetables grown in closed ground. In gooseberries, berries are also affected with it.

On strawberries, powdery mildew spots have a purple or reddish tint, and it is almost invisible on berries. Affected berries dry out unripe or soften quickly.

On potatoes, powdery mildew occurs at the end of the growing season in the form of a barely noticeable cobweb coating covering the stems and leaves.

The disease affects most species cultivated plants: fruit trees, berries, vegetables, melons (pumpkin, strawberries, raspberries, pears, apple trees, cabbage, cucumbers, beets, dill,).

Means to combat powdery mildew

What to do if powdery mildew hit your plantings? What means of control + powdery mildew are most effective?

Sick parts of plants are destroyed. Plants are sprayed during the period of bud swelling with a 3% solution Bordeaux mixture or 1% solution of colloidal sulfur. To prevent the disease, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied to the soil in moderation, the crown is regularly thinned out. It is recommended to plant varieties of currants and gooseberries that are resistant to powdery mildew.

In addition, at the first sign of illness, spray the plants with a powdery mildew preparation such as Zircon (6 drops per 1 liter of water), or pour Phytosporin solution over the leaves (2 tablespoons of the solution per 10 liters of water). Use carbendazim, yogurt whey, brewed hay dust, iodine (bottle 10 ml 5 / o solution per 10 liters of water). Spraying or dousing should be repeated after a week until the plaque ceases to appear.

Also, at the first signs of powdery mildew, spraying is carried out with a 0.5% solution of sodium phosphate disubstituted (no more than 3 times) or a 1% emulsion of colloidal sulfur. After flowering, the plants are pollinated with a mixture of 1 part sulfur with 2 parts road dust no more than 5 times with an interval of 2 weeks. Strawberries and raspberries are sprayed with 0.75% colloidal sulfur before flowering and at its end.

The leaves are sprayed on both sides with sulfur-containing preparations (colloidal sulfur, sulfaride solution). For the prevention and treatment of this disease, preparations of agate 25k, bayzafon, prestige, thiovit jet, bayleton, quadris, kurzat, rovral, scor, topaz, immunocytophyte are used. earlier than 3-4 years later.

Diseased leaves are removed from plants. The remains of plants must be destroyed, and the soil is deeply dug in the fall.

Powdery mildew on cucumbers and a photo of the disease

Powdery mildew of cucumber is a very common disease in greenhouses and in open field.

As you can see in the photo, powdery mildew on cucumbers is expressed in the appearance on the leaves white plaque, which spreads rapidly, causing the leaves to turn white (as if floured), then dry out and the plants die:

Often on the leaves, young shoots, and sometimes the fruits appear small brown spots covered with a whitish-gray coating. Gradually, they capture the entire leaf, which dries up. Young shoots do not develop. Dampness and cold are not necessary for the appearance of this disease; in hot and dry weather, it also successfully spreads (and sometimes even more strongly).

How to get rid of powdery mildew on cucumbers: remedies

Saving cucumbers from the spread of powdery mildew is a little easier than from downy mildew. To begin with, regularly carefully inspect your garden plantings and ruthlessly remove any damaged leaves. AT compost pit they should not be thrown away, it is better to burn them.

How to deal with powdery mildew on cucumbers to save the crop? Spraying with a solution prepared from liquid cow manure with the addition of urea helps well (1 liter of mullein is well mixed in 10 liters of warm water and add 1 tablespoon of urea). The filtered composition is sprayed from the sprayer with leaves on both sides. You can use an infusion of only manure (1 part manure, 3 parts water, insist for several days, then add the same volume of water, mix and filter). You can add wood ash.

Simple dusting of plants with dry ash can also help - the ash is placed in a gauze bag and, like powder, the leaves are sprinkled on both sides. For better adhesion, you can first spray them with water.

How else to treat powdery mildew cucumbers without using chemicals? A “cocktail” of weeds also helps (plantain, nettle, celandine, coltsfoot, Ivan tea, wood lice, dandelion). To prepare it, all of the listed weeds are finely cut, placed in a bucket (about half the volume) and poured with a small amount of hot water. Everything is ground, 1 teaspoon of urea is added, the same amount liquid soap or a solution of potassium permanganate (1 g of dry matter), and then topped up with water to 10 liters and mixed thoroughly. Spraying can be carried out several times at weekly intervals. You can also use spraying with whey.

The causative agent of powdery mildew and fine sulfur powder is afraid. Pollination is done through a three-layer gauze on a dry hot day, after which the greenhouse or garden bed must be closed for 2-3 hours.

For the treatment of powdery mildew on cucumbers, spores in the soil can be affected with a decoction of horsetail (per 10 liters of water 1 kg of fresh or 100 g of dried horsetail, first leave for a day, then boil for 2 hours, cool, strain and dilute with water 1 :5). You can spray both the soil and young plants. In a similar way, a decoction of tansy is prepared (for 10 liters of water 300 g fresh or 30 g dry), but it is more poisonous, so care should be taken when working with the resulting solution.

Even knowing how to get rid of powdery mildew on cucumbers, do not forget about preventive measures against the disease: for this, crops are rotated; deep autumn digging; removal of affected leaves, plant debris and weeds; maintaining a temperature of 20–25 ° C in greenhouses and optimal humidity.

How to fight and how to treat cucumbers from powdery mildew?

When the first signs of mealy plaque appear on the leaves, they must be sprinkled with a solution of mullein: for 10 liters of warm (25 ° C) water, take 1 liter of liquid mullein and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea. The solution should be well stirred, filtered and sprayed on the leaves in the morning in warm weather. Leaves should be processed from the sprayer both from the bottom and from the top. Pollination of plants with finely ground sulfur helps. To do this, sulfur is poured into a bag of three-layer gauze and the plants are pollinated during the day in sunny weather at an air temperature of 23–28 ° C. When processing in a greenhouse, it is necessary to close the windows and doors, and cover the cucumbers in the garden in the open field with a film for 2 hours. A good result is obtained by spraying plants with a solution of potassium permanganate (1.5 g per 10 liters of water). Effective method fight against powdery mildew - spraying plants with colloidal sulfur - 40 g of the drug per 10 liters of water. In this case, the processing is carried out in cloudy weather.

A more reliable means of combating powdery mildew on cucumbers is spraying with Topaz. To do this, take 1 ampoule (2 ml), diluted in 10 liters of water ( room temperature), stir and pour into a sprayer with a fine spray. Spraying is carried out both at the first signs of the disease, and for prevention. Spray cucumbers 2 times. The first spraying is carried out when 8-10 true leaves appear, the second - at the beginning of flowering (about 10-12 days after the first). Cucumbers are processed both in film greenhouses and in open ground in calm calm weather, preferably in the morning, evenly wetting the leaves. You can spray the plants with a solution of the Hom preparation - 40 g of powder is diluted in 10 liters of water and sprayed at the rate of 1 liter of solution per 10 m2.

To prevent the disease, it is also necessary to keep the garden clean, to feed in a timely manner (potassium and phosphate fertilizers increase plant resistance).

It is worth remembering that during the annual sowing or planting of cucumbers on the same bed, pathogens of this disease accumulate on it. They spread quickly when the temperature drops and watering with cold water. The disease can be transferred from weeds, flowers, etc.

Powdery mildew on currants and gooseberries (with photo)

The disease on currants and gooseberries manifests itself in the form of a white coating on the ends of young shoots, leaves and berries.

As you can see in the photo, powdery mildew of currants and gooseberries gradually forms an increasingly dense coating, similar to felt:

The berries stop growing, the shoots turn black and dry. Powdery mildew spores are easily carried by the wind and germinate on healthy plants at a temperature of 16-23 ° C, thus giving life to a new mycelium.

Pay attention to the photo - with powdery mildew of currants and gooseberries, suction cups often appear on the mycelium, through which they receive nutrients from host plant:

Spores usually mature only in the spring next year, remaining during the winter on fallen leaves, shoots and affected berries of gooseberries and currants.

The spread of powdery mildew of gooseberries and currants is facilitated by dense plantings and wet weather.

Powdery mildew control measures on currants and gooseberries

The main measures to combat powdery mildew on currants include, first of all, planting disease-resistant varieties of white (Versailles white, Dutch pink), red currants (Jonher van Tets, Chulkovskaya, Dutch red). Of course, the list of varieties resistant to powdery mildew is not limited to those listed, the list can be replenished annually with new resistant varieties bred by breeders. After flowering, as soon as the first signs of the disease appear, the plants are sprayed with a solution of soda ash (50 g per 10 l of water) with the addition of 40 g laundry soap.

An effective myrrh in the fight against powdery mildew on gooseberries and currants is the use of ash infusion. To prepare it, take 1/3 of a bucket of ash, fill the bucket with water to the top, boil for 1 hour, cool, filter and spray with this infusion. You can also spray with mullein infusion. To prepare the last 1/3 bucket of mullein, pour warm water to the top, insist 3 days, dilute with 3 buckets of water, filter and spray. These sprays also serve as good foliar top dressings. If the disease is strongly developed, spraying is repeated after 7-10 days 3-4 times. The latter is allowed to be carried out 5 days before harvest.

How to treat currants and gooseberries from powdery mildew

AT last years widespread so efficient and environmentally friendly safe method protecting currants from powdery mildew, like spraying bushes in early spring with boiling water. As soon as the snow melts, and the currant buds have not yet begun to swell, the water is boiled, poured into a watering can and the bushes are poured evenly and thoroughly with this boiling water. For a large fruit-bearing bush, one full watering can of boiling water is enough. The bush is sprayed very carefully so that drops of boiling water moisten each branch from top to bottom.

The peculiarity of this spraying technique is that the bush should be treated in one go. Even if not all the branches got drops of boiling water, then re-spraying the bush is unacceptable. The fact is that boiling water, burning and killing pathogenic fungi on the surface of branches, shoots, buds, quickly cools down, giving off its heat. And when re-treated with boiling water, the bush will already be warmed, and hot water high temperature will easily penetrate the kidneys, burn them, and they will die.

It is important that at the time of spraying the buds on the bushes should not begin to swell and be open. For the convenience of carrying out this procedure and enhancing the effect of treatment before spraying, the bush must be tied with twine so that it has a diameter of 60–80 cm in diameter. If the bushes have not yet been released from the autumn tight binding, then, on the contrary, they are somewhat released.

Spring spraying of bushes and spilling the soil under them with boiling water also kills pathogens and other diseases, and also has a detrimental effect on pest eggs laid on the surface of branches.

How else can you process currants and gooseberries from powdery mildew on personal plot? Both young seedlings and fruit-bearing currant and gooseberry bushes are sprayed in the spring before flowering and after flowering with Topaz (2 ml per 7 liters of water). The third treatment is carried out after the final harvest. 40 g of colloidal sulfur are diluted in 15 liters of water. They spend from 1.5–2 liters of working solution per 1 large bush.

Powdery mildew on roses and a photo of the disease

The disease always affects young tissues. In the upper part of the bushes on young leaves and shoots with buds, a white, powdery, gradually graying coating appears. Over time, the plaque becomes denser, and black dots of the fruiting bodies of the wintering stage of the fungus form in it.

Look at the photo - with powdery mildew on roses, the affected leaves turn brown and dry prematurely, the shoots are deformed, the buds often do not open:

The infection persists in plant debris and in the bark of the shoots, on which in the spring, from the overwintered fruiting bodies, the mycelium grows in the form of rounded raised spots. Spores are formed on the mycelium, which re-infect young growing leaves and shoots.

Powdery mildew appears in both wet and dry weather. However best conditions for its development - warm weather and shade. At the same time, the fungus does not tolerate high temperatures and direct sun rays which are detrimental to him.

If you do not start fighting powdery mildew in a timely manner, then it will cause serious damage to the plant, as a result of which the rose will grow and develop worse, and its appearance will worsen.

All types of powdery mildew fungus can only survive on a living plant. On roses, the fungus lives on buds and stems, in the winter it can go to some weeds, and in the spring it will spread again from them to roses. In order for powdery mildew to develop on roses, an air temperature of 20–25 ° C and a humidity of 40–90% are required. If the plant is in the shade, then this can also affect the development of the fungus. From the onset of the development of the disease to the appearance of new spores, it usually takes about 2–3 days, and if the weather is unstable, then this period can last 1–1.5 weeks.

To avoid powdery mildew, it is quite enough to carry out prevention and control the correct development of roses. This also facilitates the fight against powdery mildew, if the disease still affects the plants.

It develops rapidly on plants growing on soils rich in nitrogen, so it is recommended to apply mineral fertilizers in strictly specified quantities. And it is better to give preference to organic.

Also great importance has distance between rose bushes. If they have access fresh air, this prevents the appearance of powdery mildew.

Treatment of powdery mildew on roses: effective control measures

It is necessary to regularly remove and destroy the parts of plants affected by the disease, and in this way it is possible not only to fight powdery mildew, but also to increase the flow of fresh air to all parts of the plants. If a rose bush is severely affected by the disease, then it must be dug up and burned - it is better to sacrifice one plant in order to save all the others.

After the destruction of parts of roses affected by powdery mildew, spraying is recommended to treat the disease. For this purpose, you can use drugs such as Skor, Fitosporin, Baktofit, Topaz. If the first signs of powdery mildew appear on the roses, you need to spray the plants with fungicides containing sulfur, and after 1-2 weeks, repeat the spraying if necessary. A large amount of sulfur is found in garlic, so you need to plant it next to rose bushes to prevent the development of powdery mildew. You can also create powdery mildew solutions at home using squeezed garlic juice. If roses are sprayed in time, it is easy to prevent the development of powdery mildew, as well as to simplify the fight against it if the fungus still infects the plants.

Another effective measure to combat powdery mildew on roses is a solution baking soda to be sprayed once a week. Baking soda helps to raise the pH of the surface of the rose leaf, which prevents the development of powdered spores on it. When treating roses with preparations with sulfur or baking soda, you must make sure that both the upper and lower parts of the leaves are treated.

To prepare a solution of baking soda at home 1 tsp. soda is diluted in 1 liter of water, and then a few drops of liquid soap are added. Before spraying roses with this solution, you need to make sure that the plant will tolerate such a procedure well. Why should you apply the solution to several leaves and observe them for a couple of days. If there are no changes, you can safely spray the roses.

It is important to cut off the deformed affected shoots in a timely manner. At the first symptoms of powdery mildew, sprinkle the plants with one of the preparations: Vectra, Topaz. If necessary, repeat the treatment, trying to alternate the preparations. It affects roses in open and closed ground. The disease often manifests itself in the second half of summer and quickly spreads to neighboring plants. Leaves, shoots and buds are covered with a white powdery coating, curl and dry. Powdery mildew affects different types and varieties of roses in different ways. Plants with thick, leathery leaves are affected less frequently than those with thin, tender ones.

In autumn, cut and remove all affected parts of plants, dig the soil deeply. Bushes are sprayed with chemicals. In early spring(until the leaves have blossomed) the plants are treated with a solution of copper sulfate (100 g of the drug is diluted in 10 liters of water). At the first signs of the disease, the bushes are treated with Topaz (4 ml diluted in 10 liters of water) or Skor (2 ml per 10 liters of water). Spraying "Gray colloidal" (40 g per 5 liters of water) is effective.

Thickened plantings, high humidity, abundant nitrogen fertilizer, lack of lime in the soil contribute to the spread of the disease. In open ground, roses are recommended to be grown in well-lit areas.

Powdery mildew of peas and cucurbits

The strongest development of powdery mildew on peas is observed in dry summers.

Leaves, sometimes stems and beans are affected. A white powdery coating appears on the surface of the affected organs. It contains hyphae of the fungus with conidia. Conidial sporulation occurs several times during the summer. The degree of development of the disease depends on its intensity. Conidia are carried by wind, raindrops and insects.

Powdery mildew on peas looks like on other plants: the white coating thickens over time, becomes dirty gray, and the leaves dry out. The disease develops intensively at a temperature of 22–25 ° C and air humidity of 60–70%.

The causative agent of powdery mildew overwinters on plant debris.

Control measures: destruction of plant residues, early sowing of peas. It is effective to spray plants when the first signs of powdery mildew appear with Energen: 10 drops per 1 liter of water, solution consumption - 1 liter per 10 m2. Repeat after 10 days.

Powdery mildew of pumpkin crops affects plants in open and closed ground. First, rounded powdery spots form on the upper side of the leaves, and then on the lower side, which increase and merge over time. Leaves darken and wrinkle. Powdery plaque is nothing more than a mycelium of pathogens. Affected stems remain underdeveloped, the fruits become tasteless. The disease is favored by temperature fluctuations and heavy dews. The causative agents of the disease overwinter on plant debris and weeds.

How to deal with powdery mildew on grapes and how to treat the vine for treatment

Powdery mildew of grapes affects the green parts of plants, which are covered with a powdery coating of light gray color, consisting of fungal hyphae. They penetrate the epidermis, and the plant organs (leaves, berries, shoots) stop growing and developing and soon die.

The mycelium is preserved in the eyes of the vine, under their scales, around the beginnings of inflorescences. It is difficult to track the moment of infection, but when the first signs are found - grayish-whitish spots - urgent measures should be taken and the plant should be sprayed with a solution, for example, DNOC (100 g per 10 l of water). They can be used 1 time in 3 years before flowering plants.

Before you fight powdery mildew on grapes, remember that this disease gives nine generations during the growing season. Mushrooms reproduce most actively at a temperature of 25–29 °C and a relative humidity of 70–80%. If the mushrooms are treated with ground sulfur in time, a good effect can be observed.

How else to process grapes from powdery mildew in order to preserve the harvest? Well help fungicides "Strobi", "Vectra", "Tilt" and others. Prevention is green operations in the vineyard and the application of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and trace elements.

For the treatment of powdery mildew on grapes and quality preventive measure spraying with 3% Bordeaux liquid after flowering can be used.

Fighting powdery mildew on strawberries

The source of infection are strawberry plants affected during the growing season. The fungus overwinters on fallen leaves or infected plants. Favorable conditions for it are high humidity and a large number of precipitation.

Signs of defeat. The edges of the leaves are twisted; on the underside of the sheet, and sometimes on the top, a white coating is observed. Powdery mildew affects the entire plant, but more leaves.

To control powdery mildew on strawberries, you need to use a healthy planting material. It is better to plant plantations in well-lit and ventilated areas. If the plant is still sick, then it is necessary to systematically remove the affected parts. Spraying with colloidal sulfur (70 g per 10 l of water) or soda ash (50 g per 10 l of water) before flowering and after harvesting helps.

Powdery mildew on flowers and protection measures

Symptoms of powdery mildew on flowers appear soon after the start of the growing season. A white, then a grayish-white powdery coating appears on the affected organs, consisting of a superficially developing mycelium and conidial sporulation of the fungus. The leaves shrivel, dry up; shoots lag behind in growth, their tops often dry up. Buds with a strong defeat do not bloom.

The pathogen is preserved on plant debris in the form of cleistothecia, less often in the form of mycelium.

The spread of the disease is facilitated by hot weather, dripping moisture and excess nitrogen fertilizers. During the growing season, the disease is spread by conidia that are easily dispersed by wind or insects.

The main protection measures are the removal of affected and dried leaves. Avoid sharp fluctuations in temperature in the greenhouse, overdrying of plants, one-sided use of nitrogen fertilizers.

The treatment of affected plants with the following fungicides is also effective: benlat, vectra, topaz, cumulus, thiovit, colloidal sulfur.

Watch the Powdery Mildew Control video for a better understanding of how to get rid of this fungal disease:

A dangerous fungal disease that can harm plants and completely destroy the crop.

How to protect plants from it?

Powdery mildew is caused various types microscopic powdery mildew fungi. It usually affects plants in warm, humid weather at + 18 ... + 25 degrees. The fungus actively develops high humidity air on the dry surface of fabrics in dry weather, without precipitation.

At high average daily temperatures also develops in conditions of low humidity.

Spores do not need liquid moisture to germinate, so rain, watering, and washing the leaves can stop the spread of the disease.

Powdery mildew affects many crops. The symptoms of the disease (as the principles of dealing with it) are the same in each case. Each of the pathogens specializes in only one or a few plant species. Therefore, you should not be afraid that powdery mildew of oak will migrate to phloxes, gooseberries and cucumbers.

What is dangerous powdery mildew

Powdery mildew always appears on young plant tissues - leaves, green shoots, petioles, green berries. Further development of the disease leads to a deterioration in decorativeness, poor winter hardiness, and in berry bushes- crop loss.

The mycelium, which looks like a thick cobweb, grows rapidly, the spores easily scatter in the form of a white powder, similar to flour. With the development of powdery mildew during flowering, normal pollination does not occur, so the berries are formed ugly, covered with bloom, acquire a mushroom taste and smell.

The concentration of spores in the air and the risk of infection of plants from spring to mid-years is constantly increasing. However, in most plants, by this time the leaves are covered with a protective wax coating - cuticola, and it becomes difficult for fungi to infiltrate living tissue. If timely measures are taken, the disease can be stopped. The infection persists in plant debris and in the root of the affected shoots.

Powdery mildew prevention

• Mixed planting of unstable crops (phlox, roses, delphinium), refusal to grow monoculture in one place.
• Creating conditions for plants for free air circulation. Be sure to break out the extra shoots, garter.
• Timely removal of shoots with signs of disease, plant debris, fallen leaves.
• Deep tillage for annual flower and horticultural crops, as well as in the aisles.
• Balanced supplements. From the second half of summer - a decrease in the dose of nitrogen fertilizers. During an outbreak of powdery mildew activity (as a rule, the end of June - the beginning of July), it is better to feed the plants with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, foliar trace elements, make wood ash.
• Regular watering, sprinkling of leaves and crowns can weaken and even stop the disease. Leaf resistance decreases in drought or due to lack of watering (for example, caragana, common barberry, maple fall ill faster on sandy soil lack of moisture).
• Preventive autumn and early spring tillage in trunk circles copper preparations.
• Selection of resistant varieties.
• Before flowering and immediately after harvesting, spraying plantings with a soap-copper emulsion (20 g of soap and copper sulfate per 10 liters of water).
• At the initial stage of defeat by powdery mildew on shrubs and roses, ash helps a lot: the bush is sprayed with water, dusted with ash, after a couple of hours the plant is again thoroughly washed with water.
• ! During the ripening period of berries, do not use chemicals. Potassium permanganate (5g per 10 liters of water) - let it be for a couple of days, but stop the disease just before ripening.

Control measures

To combat powdery mildew, sulfur preparations have been very effective and have long been used. In a fine dispersed form, sulfur is absorbed by the cells of the fungus and, turning into hydrogen sulfide, acts on them as a toxin. Before the leaves open, treat the plant with Thiovit Jet or Cumulus DF. Treat bushes with sulfur-containing preparations in the morning or evening hours, as hot weather can cause burns on leaves and berries. Good for the prevention of "Talendo" and "Karatan".

The development of powdery mildew can be suppressed by spraying plants special preparations based on triazoles (Topaz, Horus, Skor), diseased leaves are preliminarily removed before treatment.

The easiest way to deal with powdery mildew- a weak solution of urea. You need to spray in the evening after sunset on the lower and upper sides of the leaves.

Repeated spraying with fungicides is carried out after 10-14 days. For greater effectiveness, it is recommended to alternate drugs. Take Special attention trimmed hedges and plants at risk.

Folk remedies for the fight against powdery mildew

1. 10% aqueous solution of milk or (to save) whey - spray grapes once a week and fruit bushes. Milk fat, or possibly whey protein, then serves as food for microorganisms that compete with powdery mildew for space and eat its spores.

2. Daily infusion of ash(half a bucket of ash per 7 liters of water). Before spraying, dilute with water (1:1) and add 100 g of "green soap" as an adhesive. Pour the bushes from a watering can, wetting the leaves and clusters well. Some colleagues do not insist on ashes, but boil for 20 minutes.

3. Concentrate of saprophytic microflora. In the spring, pour 1/3 of the sown humus into a 100 l barrel, fill it with warm (+20 ... + 25 degrees) water, cover with burlap and keep warm for 5-6 days, constantly stirring. After 5-6 days, the concentrate is filtered through cheesecloth and poured into a sprayer. For prevention plants are treated in the "green cone" stage on cloudy days or in the evening. The second processing - in a week, one more - before flowering.

♦ SIGNS OF PLANT DEFECT:

Gradually, the linen captures the stems and other parts of the houseplant. Over time, the spots increase in size, the mycelium thickens (becomes felty), the plaque darkens and acquires a brownish color.

It should be noted that flowers can also be affected by downy mildew (peronosporosis), the external signs of which are similar to real underwear. But, unlike the real one, downy mildew in the form of a plaque appears only on the underside of the leaf blade, then the spots turn yellow, increase in size and then acquire a brownish color.

♦ WHAT DAMAGE DOES BELLOW DO TO HOUSEPLANTS?

many buds flowering species do not open and fall off, the flowering period may not begin at all. The leaves of the plant gradually turn brown and noticeably deform, dry out and fall off.

The development of the plant noticeably worsens, growth stops. Soon, only bare stems remain from the plant, covered with a darkening bloom. The decorative value of the flower is completely destroyed.

- leaves affected by powdery mildew: photo

♦ WHAT CAUSES POWDER DEW?

◉ as a rule, powdery mildew appears on indoor flowers in violation of the regimen of care at home. Promotes the appearance of whiteness too heat on the background high humidity (70-80%);

◉ if there are drops of water on the plant after watering and spraying for too long;

◉ reduced turgor of the leaves and stems of the plant, as well as wilting caused by any disease;

◉ too vulnerable weakened plant, damaged by such dangerous pests like spider mites, flower thrips, scale insects, whitefly larvae, mealybugs or white aphids;

◉ incorrect feeding of the plant. Spores (conidia) of fungi are carried through the air and fall on the plant. With an excess of nitrogenous fertilizers and an insufficient amount of calcium in the soil, the plant's resistance to the development of powdery mildew from conidia decreases.

♦ HOW TO PREVENT POWDERY DEW ON PLANTS?

❂ the best prevention of the disease is to organize the correct and timely care for home flowers to make them as resistant to fungi as possible;

❂ do not forget to pay on time phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in potting soil and keep the proportions during the preparation of the solution;

❂ stagnant air contributes to the rapid spread of plaque with powdery mildew throughout the plant. Ventilate the room more often, improve air circulation;

❂ severely affected by linen, dried, deformed leaves and shoots should be removed;

❂ useful to pollinate houseplants ground sulfur in summer period. It is enough to pollinate 1-2 times a month ( best option- 4-5 times for the whole summer).

♦ HOW TO FIGHT POWDER DEW IN HOME?

➊ if you managed to detect the first signs of underwear damage in a timely manner, then you can get rid of the fungus with folk methods. For example, an infusion of garlic at an early stage of the lesion is very effective. To do this, grind 30 gr. garlic and stir in 1 liter pure water and then put the product in a dark place for 24 hours. Spray the entire plant from a spray bottle 3 times with an interval of 1 week;

➋ one more good way processing - a solution of soap with copper sulfate. In 1 liter of water, add 2-3 grams of copper sulfate and 30 gr. chopped laundry soap, mix everything thoroughly. After 12-14 hours, you can use the product by spraying the plant from a spray bottle. Treat at least 3 times with an interval of 4 days;

➌ fungicides against powdery mildew. With a strong defeat of the plant with powdery mildew without treatment with special chemicals not enough. Fortunately, most modern fungicides do not cause severe damage to flowers. To effective means against leucorrhoea, drugs such as Colloidal sulfur, Fundazol, Topaz, Skor, Vectra, Thiovit, HOM can be attributed.

♦ WHICH HOUSEPLANTS ARE AT RISK?

Almost all popular types of potted flowers can be affected by the activity of powdery mildew fungi. The most vulnerable include varieties with soft and tender leaves -