How to make compost yourself: production and preparation technology (with video). What is compost and how to make it with your own hands Is it possible to put dandelions in a compost pit

Composting is a great way to make your own organic fertilizer. A compost heap allows you to decompose plant debris and food waste from your home that would otherwise be thrown in the trash. You can add almost anything that is organic matter to compost, but there are some things that cannot be used in compost. Here are 10 things you should never throw in your compost heap.

1. Inorganic and non-biodegradable materials

Inorganic and non-biodegradable materials such as plastic, glass, aluminum foil, metal should never be thrown into the compost pile because they never decompose. In addition, the addition of chemically treated wood should be avoided.

2. Coated paper and other glossy printed materials

Do not compost magazines, catalogs, old business cards, or glossy paper. The chemicals and coatings in them can be harmful to your plants. However, you can compost newspapers, textbook pages or documents - i.e. recyclable offset paper.

3. Plants affected by diseases or pests

The remains of diseased plants or plants that are infested with horticultural pests should not end up in the compost heap. Such plant residues should be burned.

4. Plants treated with pesticides and herbicides

Never compost plants or grass clippings that have been treated with pesticides or herbicides.

5. sawdust

You can add sawdust to the compost as it absorbs excess moisture, but sawdust from treated wood should be avoided as it contains too many harmful chemicals.

6. Confectionery

Foods such as cakes and pastries attract pests, insects and animals. However, you can add slices of stale bread or pasta to the compost, but remember that when you put any leftover food on the compost heap, it needs to be buried deep so as not to attract unwanted insects.

7 Carnivore Feces

8. Vegetable oil

There are a number of reasons why you shouldn't add vegetable oil to your compost heap. First of all, it can slow down the composting process. In addition, it has a smell that can attract the attention of animals and insects. In addition, cooking oil can change the moisture level of the compost.

9. Meat and dairy products

Meat leftovers and animal fats should be avoided in the compost heap. They decompose slowly and exude an unpleasant odor. In addition, they also attract rats, raccoons, cats and stray dogs, and most importantly, they will become a place for hordes of flies. Also avoid adding dairy products such as milk, cheese, butter to the compost unless you want to breed pests and rodents.

10. Personal care products

Personal care products (sanitary pads, tampons, diapers, fabrics containing human blood) can pose a health risk. Dispose of them with household waste. A Few More Things to Avoid

There are certain things that should not be used in compost or can be added in very small amounts. These are black walnuts - because they contain a chemical called juglone, which can be toxic to some plants (like the tomato) and inhibit their growth. Also, when you add fruit to your compost heap, fruit flies feed on it. To avoid this problem, never leave compost heaps and pits open.

Organic fertilizers for plants and soil are safe substances that do not allow the soil to dry out and deplete. Top dressing is subject to the soil that annually produces a crop. The principle of operation of organics is simple: the whole process takes place with the participation of soil microorganisms and earthworms, as well as insects and their larvae.

In a word, in order for the activity of bacteria not to stop, organic matter is needed, and in order for organic matter to grow, bacteria are needed. In addition, you need to know what not to put in the compost so that microbial activity continues throughout the process.

Humic acids are the main substance that gives high fertility rates. Humates are produced by the action of digestive tract enzymes of microorganisms and earthworms.

The work of the latter is especially useful. Eukaryotes secrete coprolites into the soil, which, because of this, becomes several times more nutritious. Plants assimilate microelements several times faster and better, which affects crop yields: it increases by at least 50%.

Compost components

The raw materials for the production of compost on your own site are all types of organic matter. These are dry fallen leaves, vegetable and fruit peels, cut tree branches, mowed green grass or hay, dry straw, paper or cardboard, cattle manure or bird droppings.

All components are divided into nitrogen and carbon-containing. It is necessary to distinguish them in order to correctly lay down the components and correctly calculate the amount of one and the other ingredients.

If, for example, you try to make fertilizer from nitrogen substances alone, then the compost heap will begin to rot and exude a stench. The result is silo. In the worst case, the entire pile will have to be disposed of.

The increased content of carbon-containing substances leads to the fact that in natural conditions, without the use of accelerators, fertilizers will have to wait 2 years. This is not beneficial, as plant and soil nutrition is required annually.

The correct ratio of substances is when 1 nitrogen part accounts for 3 parts of carbon-containing components.

Nitrogen feedstock:

• manure;

• fresh grass;

• raw cleaning;

• tops of vegetables.

Carbon feedstock:

• straw;

• hay;

• paper;

• dry foliage;

• coniferous litter - be careful with the amount, since such an additive increases acidity;

• woody branches.

To make the composting process faster, large particles must be crushed before laying.

And in order to get fertilizer after 1.5 - 2 months, it is necessary to use biodestructors and properly care for the composter.

Fertilizer preparation methods

There are two different ways to make compost at home. In a sealed composter without oxygen and in an open compost heap. In the first case, anaerobic bacteria will do all the work.

These are microorganisms that do not like sunlight, high temperature and die under the influence of air. If they are used to decompose components, the compost heap must be hermetically sealed and not opened until the fertilizer has matured.

The aerobic method does not require an airtight container, but is more labor-intensive, since in the process it is necessary to shovel the mixture several times in order to ventilate it. With such care, bacteria multiply faster and more intensively process plant residues. Moisture levels must be monitored so that the compost heap does not dry out.

Vermicompost

This method of preparing fertilizer is the fastest, since, in addition to bacteria, plant residues are processed by Californian red worms.

This type is the most efficient reproduces 500 times faster than ordinary worms, but in order to produce a huge number of cocoons, they need to eat a lot. If the environmental conditions correspond to the needs of this type, then the finished fertilizer can be made not only for oneself, but also for sale.

Conditions of detention:

• warm room with a temperature of 18 - 20 degrees.

• Equipped pile with wet raw materials and air access.

• A constant supply of plant residues for nutrition.

Vermicompost is the most nutritious organic fertilizer, which requires three times less than other top dressings. It is absorbed completely in a short time, so it does not have time to be washed out by rains.

Where to set up a composter

The compost heap box should be kept out of direct sunlight, which can inhibit bacterial growth. It can be the shade of a tree or a canopy with a roof. It is desirable that the box be with a lid so that precipitation does not get inside.

The bottom of the composter is concreted or left open. For a stationary collar, it is better to make a solid floor, since during the ripening process a nutrient fluid flows out, which must be preserved, since it is rich in nitrogen. As an option - lined with straw, peat or soil.

The box can be made independently from boards, mesh or slate, or you can buy a ready-made container. In the first case, it is easier to take care of the compost, but only the aerobic composting method is available. Raw materials are placed in plastic containers for both aerobic and anaerobic decay. But it is more difficult to care for, because the container has a small hatch.

How to properly lay a compost heap

To begin with, the components are prepared and crushed to increase the area of ​​penetration of bacteria. It is recommended to air-dry green freshly cut grass to reduce the amount of nitrogen. This will prevent rotting and speed up the ripening time.

Lay at the bottom first soil layer about 30 cm. Next, the layers are alternated so that 3 parts of the carbon-containing components account for one layer of nitrogen. It is recommended to pour each layer with a solution of biological fertilizer - bought in a store or prepared with your own hands - for this, yeast and sour-milk products are used.

For aerobic composting, the ingredients are placed in a loose manner, without being tamped down, so that there is air between them and bacteria can multiply.

Video: How to make weed compost

After laying the components in 2 - 3 days, it is necessary to shovel the pile. The temperature at this point is already beginning to rise due to the release of gases. Then turn the mixture every two weeks. If necessary, pour water over, but do not flood, as this will lead to the death of microorganisms. The mixture should be slightly damp.

Do's and Don'ts in Compost

The question that most of all interests summer residents is what can be put in compost. You can lay all the organic matter, but make sure that it is not affected by the fungus, otherwise the disease will spread along the site along with the fertilizer.

Which plant tops should not be composted?

• cabbage put in the compost if it is not damaged by the keel - outgrowths on the roots;

• tomatoes and potatoes susceptible to phytophthora disease, which causes darkening of the leaves, if the tops are healthy, then it can be used as a raw material;

• weeds you can’t put them in compost if they are collected with seeds - they are pre-soaked in water so that the shell becomes soft, then the bacteria can destroy it;

• gout roots pre-crushed so that the plant could not survive and germinate in the composter.

Which tops cannot be put into compost is determined by their appearance. The greens should be clean, and the root area without darkened areas.

What not to put in the compost heap:

• glass- it is not processed by bacteria;

• rubber– can cause the death of microorganisms;

• faux fabric scraps- they are also not digested;

• faeces of domestic cats and dogs, as there is a risk of contracting toxoplasmosis;

• meat waste and fat– it attracts flies and other pests;

• painted boards or sawdust with chemicals;

• glossy paper- it is treated with heavy metal chemicals.

Not suitable for processing construction waste for fertilizer - drywall, laminate and plastic.

Questions that cause controversy among gardeners:

• Can you put potato peels in the compost? You can not even grind if EM preparations are used. The exception is tubers affected by the fungus.

• Can strawberry leaves be composted? Berries are also exposed to diseases, but if everything is in order with the bushes, then the prunings are laid in a pile.

There is often debate about whether to bring in meat and fish waste. It is better not to do this, as rotting meat attracts insects that lay eggs. Fish waste often contains helminth larvae. Such compost can infect the entire soil on the site.

What can be put in the compost: any organic residue is allowed: weeds (preferably directly with the ground on the roots, without shaking off), tops of carrots and beets, cabbage stalks, apple cores and potato peels, paper napkins and toilet paper, fish husks and heads from herring, coffee grounds and stale tea, waste from a juicer, water in which meat was washed, and so on. We also lay cut grass from a lawn mower, any organic matter, including feces and the contents of chamber pots. There is nothing to be afraid of - in the process of composting at elevated temperatures, everything is sterilized and decomposes to simple organic compounds. All this is laid in layers and sprinkled with earth (maybe even clay) or peat, sometimes sawdust is added, but in moderation. It is very good if you are not too lazy and mow young nettles (until the seeds ripen). It is even better to add comfrey, any legumes, yarrow, dandelions. This speeds up the composting processes and makes our substrate healthier.

For people who doubt the success of the event called “make our own compost” and that the components of the compost decompose to simple organic compounds, it can be advised to form two heaps in parallel. One pile with feces, and the other without them. Gardeners with an inquisitive mind, prone to experimentation, will have the opportunity to observe which one will be “ready” first. And it will be possible to use the resulting substrate in a differentiated way. Under garden crops, the one that is “without”, and the second - under decorative trees, shrubs and flowers.

What not to put in compost: cucumber and squash tops, stems of nightshade (tomatoes and potatoes), cut peonies, irises and phloxes, leaves of apple trees and other fruit trees and bushes, clematis cut in autumn, shoots and leaves of roses. It is better to burn all the listed residues, because by the end of the season, as a rule, many pathogens of various diseases accumulate on them!

Do not put weeds in the compost that have already released panicles with seeds. The fact is that the seeds are able to remain viable for several years, so there is a threat to spread them across the compost site, which is highly undesirable. The same applies to dandelions. Important! You can compost them only as long as they have not dissolved their "parachutes" with seeds. No need to lay branches and straw - they rot slowly, then you won’t be able to choose them from the finished compost. It is undesirable to put the roots of wheatgrass and horsetail in the compost - there, in the dark, they feel at home, they grow fat on an abundant nitrogenous substrate and - they do not go anywhere, they only multiply. Therefore, the roots of these truly malicious rhizomatous weeds must be carefully selected and burned or fermented in a bucket until bubbles go. And only then send it to the "marten" of the compost heap.

Do not confuse a compost heap with a garbage dump. No municipal solid waste should end up in the compost bin! Do not try to put vacuum cleaner bags in the compost heap! It is not recommended to put nut shells, tea bags and cigarette butts (nothing takes them!), Charcoal ash, in particular, from the grill (wood is possible!). I want to pay special attention to the fact that water after laundry should never be poured onto a compost heap!

Is it possible to pour out the contents of the dry closet? You shouldn't do this for two reasons. Firstly, the active substance that decomposes feces is the most chemistry. Its presence will violate the environmental friendliness of the compost, the consequences of which will be unpredictable. And, secondly, in this case, an excessive amount of moisture will enter the compost, it will “float” and turn sour.

Can you put ashes in compost? Ash, only wood does not hurt, like lime. Not only is ash a natural deoxidizer, it gently alkalizes the soil, it contains almost all the minerals necessary for plants.

Technologies, methods and methods of composting organic and plant waste, sawdust

What composting technologies exist and should the contents of the compost bin be rammed? Remember that we are making aerobic compost, that is, oxygen plays an active role in its preparation. By tamping the contents of the box, we thereby prevent the access of oxygen and slow down the composting process. As the compost matures, the pile itself will settle and shrink in size.

What to do and what waste composting methods to use if there is an unpleasant smell? With a properly organized composting process, problems, as a rule, do not arise. In a compost heap, some incomprehensible biochemical processes take place in a completely incomprehensible way, which convert all kinds of waste into a homogeneous, well-structured fertile substrate that has a faint smell of mushrooms and rotted foliage. It smells like an autumn forest.

If the composting methods are chosen correctly, but still there is an unpleasant smell, then something was done wrong. But everything is easy to fix - just add peat or any earth, and no smells will bother you.

How often should the contents of the compost bin be turned over?

During the composting process, which lasts the entire summer season, the compost heap should not be turned. Mysterious organic metamorphoses are already underway there, a certain temperature regime has developed, which should not be disturbed by additional aeration. But in the spring, when the compost heap thaws, you will remove the top of the undecomposed residues, transfer them to the empty adjacent compartment to the bottom, where they will become the basis for the compost that you will form in the new season, and by autumn they will certainly reach “condition ". Composting vegetable waste greatly speeds up the cooking process. If you don’t have the strength to wait until spring or autumn plantings are in progress and you really need compost, you can do this operation with a transfer in the fall, and take the finished compost (it will definitely be less than in spring) around the site, covering the plants from the winter cold. It can be strawberries, phloxes and geyhers, clematis, roses and any other sissy plants.

Should I cover the compost heap? In summer, it stands open, precipitation freely gets here, the compost “breathes”. But if you still have the finished compost from last year and you didn’t have time to carry it around the site or put it in bags, be sure to cover it with a dense black non-woven material. This is done so that it does not become clogged with dandelions and seeds of other weeds. For the winter, according to the rules, the compost is closed with some dense, but breathable material. For this, a piece of an old carpet is best suited, which does not rot and lets air through. This is done to maintain a certain temperature in the compost heap so that it does not freeze longer, and there, with the participation of oxygen, the processes of organic transformations continue. It is desirable that this "marten" work longer.

What is the procedure for composting organic waste: from the beginning of the season, you begin to fill one of the empty compartments, layering weeds, kitchen waste, lawn grass after mowing, etc., and sprinkle each layer with earth or peat. Then the composting of sawdust is gradually added, giving the mass a light structure, enriched with minerals.

Can sawdust be used? Only from hardwoods. Coniferous sawdust is impregnated with resin and does not decompose well.

Do I need to grind the components of the future compost when laying? So the process will go faster. Be sure to chop the watermelon rinds into small pieces and chop the rotten apples. Otherwise, the apples will not rot, they will remain intact until spring!

Should I water my compost pile? It should be moderately moist. Usually 1-2 buckets of kitchen slops per day are enough.

If the weather is hot and you see that the pile has dried up, it should be shed a little, preferably with EM preparations.

How to determine by eye when the compost is ready? When there is nothing left of the compost components, except for a homogeneous, crumbly dark-colored substrate with the smell of rotten leaves, consider that the job is done.

How to speed up the maturation of compost? Two or three times a season it is necessary to shed this pile with a solution of some special composter solution, which are now commercially available in the assortment. I know from my own experience that for the natural composting process, when organic residues turn into a homogeneous, well-rotted earthen mass, one had to wait two years. But when using microbiological preparations, this process is reduced to one season! By spilling EM preparations, you “launch” beneficial microorganisms there and speed up the process of compost maturation.

Is it necessary to sift the finished compost? With properly made compost, this is not necessary. When loading a wheelbarrow with finished products, make sure that there are no large insect larvae that like to settle in a fertile, warm environment.

Cooking leafy earth: how to make and cook

How to prepare leafy soil, which is necessary for growing seedlings and some plants? Sick leaves of fruit trees, of course, it is better to burn. If you have a forest area, then birch, maple or oak leaves are best folded separately. In a shared compost heap, they will slow down the composting process as they take longer to rot. Before making sheet soil for it, you can specially make a box covered with mesh on all sides for better aeration. The front wall must be made on hinges, in the form of a door.

Leaf fertilizer is available to everyone: if you cannot afford to allocate a special place for obtaining leaf humus, collect the leaves in bags, preferably mesh, in which potatoes are sold. If there are none - in ordinary plastic ones, but in this case they must be perforated for air access or left open. Then put them somewhere in a secluded place and "forget" for two or three years.

Leaves are harvested either by hand, with a fan rake, or with the help of special vacuum cleaners. An excellent tool for collecting leaves on the lawn is a regular lawn mower with a hopper. By collecting leaves in this way, you seriously save your time and effort. But remember that when working with a lawn mower, the leaves must be dry!

On the other hand, it's not so bad if the leaves are wet from autumn rains. The preparation of leafy earth is accelerated, since the humid environment contributes to their rapid decomposition. But in this case, they must be raked only by hand. Usually in our garden we clean the leaves in the spring, they have already dried up over the winter, are quite wet and will rot well.

Layers of leaves are interspersed with layers of earth, even the most barren (but not sand!). And one more condition - no other organic matter should be added to the leaf humus, unless the addition of mowed grass does not interfere. All this "layer cake" from time to time (2-3 times per season) should be spilled with a solution of EM preparations.

After 2-3 years, you will find yourself the owner of a beautiful fertile leafy land, airy and well structured. It can be used for sowing seeds and growing seedlings, mulching in the garden, adding to the holes when planting flowers, when planting flowers in garden containers.

Obtaining soil and organic fertilizer vermicompost

What is biohumus? The red Californian worm, a relative of a simple earthworm, "tamed" by man, passing organic residues through itself, gives out "on the mountain" the most valuable organic fertilizer biohumus, which is used to feed seedlings and indoor flowers, germinate seeds, when planting seedlings on beds in the garden, when planting potatoes, when it is added to each well. Soil vermicompost helps to accelerate the growth and development of plants. It is also useful when sowing a lawn. In this case, 1 kg of seeds is mixed with 3 kg of vermicompost, then they are evenly scattered and lightly buried in the ground with a rake. Californian worms are also indispensable in the maintenance of country toilets. They literally feed on the contents of the cesspool, while the unpleasant odors that usually accompany these establishments disappear. Now there are nurseries of these useful creatures and entire farms where biohumus is produced.

If desired, you can organize the production of biohumus and breed them at home, for this special technologies have been developed for breeding worms. The essence of these technologies is that two boxes with a large-mesh bottom are placed on top of each other with a sort of whatnot.

Food for worms - finely ground vegetable and other organic residues, along with worms, are poured onto the lower level. As they eat the contents of the box, the same vermicompost is formed there. Then (or immediately, it doesn't matter) the box located above is filled with organic remains, the worms crawl there and begin to develop a new space. And the bottom box with ready-made vermicompost can be put into action. Having freed from the contents, it is put into place by the upper tier, and the process continues further. The difficulty lies in the fact that this living "factory" for the production of vermicompost cannot be left unattended for more than two weeks, since the worms will simply die without food.

Grass, leaves, twigs, straw are the most suitable ingredients for composting. Compost from cut grass is laid both in a hole and in a pile. The first option looks more aesthetically pleasing on the site, since it does not rise above the ground surface.

If moles live in the garden, they may begin to dig into the top layer of soil to get into the pile and feast on the earthworms that take part in the creation of fertilizer.

Benefits of Green Grass for Compost

Green fertilizer from grass, manure and ash is considered the most nutritious and useful, both for the soil and for plants. It contains the main nutrients - nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, as well as humic acids, which are the main indicator of soil fertility.

Bacteria and earthworms, eating organic matter, ferment microelements and plants absorb them completely. This is the main difference between organic fertilizers and mineral fertilizers, the penetrating power of which is 60% lower.

Some crops have long roots and absorb nutrition from deep layers of soil. This is typical for green manure, so grass compost with the addition of green manure increases the nutritional value of the fertilizer.

In addition, green manure plants of legumes contain several times more nitrogen. This reduces the need for mineral nitrogen fertilizers.

Mowed grass as a fertilizer can be used not only in compost. Greens are simply taken out to the garden and the roots are mulched, dug up with soil. Soil microorganisms already do their job.

The difference is that in a pit or pile, grass composting is more efficient and there is no loss of nutrients. The pit is completely isolated from precipitation and wind, and the pile is fenced with boards. A layer of soil, peat or sawdust is usually laid on the bottom to absorb the flowing liquid rich in minerals. If you make compost from grass in a barrel, then the entire composition will be preserved.

Video: How to dispose of cut grass with benefit

Features of herbal fertilizer

There are many ways to quickly make grass compost. But there are a few rules on how to properly compost grass:

• It is not advisable to use only greens. For complete decay, manure is added - it starts the combustion processes. At the same time, soil pests and their larvae are destroyed.

Weed seeds are usually much more tenacious and only temperatures up to 70 degrees can neutralize them. Lawn grass seeds do not pose a threat to garden crops. The grass content should not exceed 1/3 of the total number of components.

• Fertilizer from grass and weeds must be constantly moistened. This promotes the growth of bacteria and earthworms. For example, red Californian worms are considered the most prolific and voracious.

They reproduce 500 times faster than domestic representatives of eukaryotes. Compost from cut grass dries out faster in summer, animals and microorganisms are not able to eat normally, so the pile is watered and covered with a film. It is better to bookmark in the shade of trees so that the sun's rays do not dry out the mixture.

• Sometimes you need to turn the components with a pitchfork so that there is access to oxygen. All bacteria in green grass manure are aerobic. This means that they need air to live. If the walls of the pile are poorly ventilated, then the bacteria die, and the maturation of the fertilizer is delayed.

The best option on how to make compost from cut grass and weeds is to dilute the greens with soil, alternately laying soil and vegetation in the pile.

What plants from the site are used for composting

How to make humus from grass so that it is the most nutritious? You need to choose the right plants and combine them with other ingredients.

The most nutritious are green manure, as well as nettles. Nettle is useful not only for plants, but also for humans. This pantry of vitamins and minerals without exaggeration. Green fertilizer from nettle and grass in liquid form can be prepared in a few days - an average of a month. For young seedlings, you can’t imagine the best top dressing. Composting takes more time.

Legumes are suitable, however, it must be borne in mind that the tops are most rich in nutrients until flowering. Then it coarsens, and the nutritional components turn into fruits. Therefore, legumes are best grown as green manure crops and cut at the right time.

Cruciferous plants, such as mustard, are indispensable in compost. The composition of their juices includes substances that disinfect everything around them - phytoncides. Before adding the mustard to the pile, it is advisable to finely chop and mix with the rest of the ingredients.

Lawn grass is the most abundant ingredient in compost. The question arises, how to make green fertilizer from grass, so that it does not sour:

• be sure to mix with manure so that combustion processes start faster;

• before laying, lawn grass is kept in the sun and dried so that it does not clump and rot;

• add carbohydrate components - newspapers, sawdust.

The compost heap or heap should allow air to pass through - it supports combustion and reduces the risk of vegetation decay.

What plants can not be composted:

• Infected with fungal diseases, blackened in the region of the basal neck.

• Poisonous - lily of the valley, yew, aconite, foxglove. Alkaloids kill beneficial bacteria, and the process can slow down or stop altogether.

• Weeds that are difficult to remove from the site - wheatgrass, gout, bindweed, mountaineer. In extreme cases, they are soaked in ordinary water for 2 weeks or poured with boiling water, then laid in a pile. It is important to soften the seed coat so that microorganisms can digest it and reach the plant embryo. after that they won't come up.

Cabbage keel is difficult to destroy even by composting, so it is better to burn the affected tops in an iron container so as not to spread the fungus. In the form of ash, the tops can be added to a composter or pit.

Compost Recipes

There are two fundamentally different ways to prepare grass humus:

• aerobic - with air access;

• anaerobic - in a sealed container - composter or barrel.

In the first case, you need to sometimes shovel the mixture and maintain the moisture level. The second does not require intervention and matures on its own. With the anaerobic method, the greatest amount of nutrients is retained, which are later responsible for the crop. Such compost is ready for use in a month, but full maturation ends after 3-5 months.

For anaerobic composting, a special solution of EO preparations is used. Quantity - 1 liter per ton of greens.

To make green plant food from grass in an aerobic way, EM preparations can also be added, but the bacterial strains will be different.

With the addition of aquatic plants

If it is possible to use aquatic plants or duckweed, then this is very good for composting, since pond plants have a soft tissue structure and quickly decompose. They contain the same nutrients as terrestrial species.

One can give an example of Ancient Egypt, when the Nile River, during a flood, threw organic matter in the form of algae onto poor sandy soils and the farmers were incredibly happy about this, since the yields were high.

To prepare compost from river grass, pond plants are mixed with soil and preferably manure - at least 2 layers. That is, the same rules apply as for conventional composting.

fresh grass compost

The easiest way is to cook anaerobically in a sealed composter. To do this, the cut grass is crushed and compacted tightly. A layer of soil is laid at the bottom of the composter to fully retain nutrients.

After laying, the mixture is poured with a solution of the EO preparation and closed. Within 3 - 4 months there is a decomposition (ensiling) of grass, after which it is used for garden plants.

Silage is a valuable nutritious feed for pets and birds. In terms of vitamin content, it competes with fresh grass, so it can be harvested in large volumes so that it is enough for the garden and livestock.

Liquid green manure - preparation method

If there is no desire to arrange a pit or a compost heap, freshly cut greens are placed in a large plastic barrel by a third and filled with water. The mixture should begin to ferment, after which it is used as a fertilizer.

You can prepare an infusion of herbs for plant nutrition in 2 weeks. Suitable lawn species or weeds, which need to be crushed for better fermentation.

In the process of fermentation, nitrogen is lost, so the barrel is tightly closed for the first few days, and opened a week later, leaving a small gap for air to enter.

Grass and yeast

To make the herbal infusion for plant nutrition ripen faster and be more nutritious, yeast is added to it.

Garden compost is a free and at the same time the most valuable fertilizer for a garden plot. A garden composter is a small facility that helps a gardener prepare an excellent organic fertilizer while getting rid of organic garden debris. What is a composter, how does it work and how to properly prepare garden compost so that the grass does not rot in a rainy summer and does not dry out in the heat? We will talk about all this in today's article.

What is compost

Compost is an organic fertilizer obtained as a result of the decomposition of various organic substances under the influence of the activity of microorganisms.

In favor of compost, in addition to the fact that it is a universal fertilizer, it is also said that this fertilizer is natural and absolutely free.

Why do you need a garden composter in the country

A properly designed garden composter produces compost and is a kind of mini-factory for processing garden and organic waste into fertilizer, and also allows you to get rid of unpleasant odors and flies that constantly hover over the compost pit.

Composter device

The garden composter is a large capacity 200-1000 l, depending on the needs of the summer resident and the size of the plot. An optimal compost bin has a base area of ​​2-4 square meters and a height of about a meter. The right compost bin can be made from any material, as long as the walls keep the heat in, and excess water can flow from the bottom. And of course, a garden composter should be easy to use.

Modern composters are single-chamber and 2- or even 3-chamber.

Homemade garden composter for giving, as a rule, is made from boards. The frame of the required size assembled from a bar is sheathed with wooden boards. In the simplest version, the lid is either not made at all, or the composter is covered with a film.

When building a homemade composter, slate sheets are often used, which last much longer than wood, and a metal profile, from which it is much faster and easier to assemble the walls of a garden composter than from wooden boards.

On sale most often you can find garden composters of various designs made of plastic. You can buy completely finished composters, or prefabricated options.

In any case, if you decide to set up a garden composter on your site, give up digging compost pits in favor of a homemade or store-bought composter. Very often in compost pits water accumulates, difficult air access, and, as a result, the processes of decay are difficult. In addition, the compost in the compost pit is almost impossible to mix and it is difficult to get ready-made compost from the lower layers of the pit.

If you do not have time to make a good garden composter, and there is no way to buy a ready-made composter, it is better to make an ordinary compost heap - three walls from any available material, up to one meter high.

For a compost bin, it is best to make a slatted floor. In this case, air will be additionally sucked into the compost from below, and the composting process will proceed faster and better.

It is important to install the garden composter in a dry place, on a surface that absorbs moisture well - sand, gravel or grass. Drainage holes must be able to freely drain excess moisture from the composter to the outside. In areas with heavy clay soil, a layer of gravel is poured under the composter or cut branches are placed. If the floor under the garden composter is wooden or concrete, then straw or sawdust is laid down, with a layer of at least 20-30 cm thick.

For the best process of decay, oxygen is needed. To do this, the compost can either be mixed or provide air access to the center of the composter where the most active decomposition takes place. This can be done with a plastic or asbestos pipe with drilled holes, installed vertically in the center of the composter.

To speed up the composting process, the walls of the composter must be insulated. This can be done by laying the inner walls of 5-10 cm with a layer of foam during construction. At the same time, on hot summer days, it is necessary to ensure that the compost does not burn out by regularly and thoroughly mixing its contents.

The minimum volume of the compost heap should be at least 1 m3, otherwise the organic matter will dry out quickly. For the same reason, the garden composter is best placed in the shade.

If the compost heap is in an open area, it must be covered from above. In winter and spring, the garden composter can be covered with foil, in summer - with any opaque material. If the compost heap is left uncovered, the nutrients will be washed away by the rain during the season.

When installing a garden composter, pay attention to the fact that the access roads are convenient, and the front wall of the composter must be made removable, low, or completely dispensed with.

How to make compost

As surprising as it sounds, the compost prepares itself. The task of the gardener in this case is to create suitable conditions and put the raw materials into the garden composter in time. The process of compost formation is a friendly work of soil-forming organisms - bacteria, fungi and worms. They need to be provided with food, air, comfortable humidity and temperature. The rest they will do themselves.

What not to put in a garden composter

• protein food residues - meat, fish, lard, bones;
• dairy waste;
• chemicals for washing dishes, bathrooms, etc.;
• synthetics, including plastics;

Dairy waste and protein leftovers in a garden composter are bad because they attract flies and rats, and they also emit an unpleasant odor when they decompose. They can be put in a composter, digging into a pile in small quantities. So they rot faster and do not create additional problems.

What to put in a garden composter

"Green" (nitrogen-rich) components of compost:

• green leaves;
• cut grass;
• tops;
• kitchen waste;
• squeezes and waste of fruits and fruits;
• manure;
• feces;
• bird droppings;
• bean hay.

Green components rot quickly and with heating, which is often accompanied by an unpleasant odor. This is the "stove" of the garden composter. And for the soil - a source of nitrogen fertilizer.

"Brown" (poor in nitrogen, but rich in fiber) components of compost:

• dry leaves;
• straw;
• branches;
• seed husks;
• corn cobs;
• paper;
• sawdust;
• bark.

These components rot slowly, coolly, in the heap and in the soil mainly provide porosity by retaining moisture and air, sometimes depleting the compost of nitrogen. These are the “rippers” of the garden composter.

Leaven:

• Earth;
• mature humus.

The use of sourdough in a garden composter is optional. It only helps to speed up the process of decay.

Green materials form the basis of the compost, and brown materials simply sandwich them.

If you are composting only "brown" ingredients, such as dry leaves in autumn, the compost heap must be moistened with a solution of urea (urea) at the rate of 1.5-2 kg per cubic meter of material. Then your compost will not be depleted in nitrogen.

Manure for the composter is best used straw. The highest quality is horse. Pig manure is not recommended - it is acidic and liquid. Any manure must be layered with “brown” components.

It is also undesirable to add bird droppings to a garden composter.

Kitchen and fruit waste must be laid thinly and must be layered with “brown” materials.

Hay is an excellent material for garden compost. It must be laid in layers, alternating with ready-made humus or watered with infusion of straw or grass for faster decay. If the hay is dry, it must be moistened with water.

Grass, leaves and other green mass necessarily require drying, otherwise they compact in the composter, remain without air and begin not to rot, but to sour, turning into a poisonous "silo". If you put fresh grass in a garden composter, it must be layered, like manure, with dry leaves or sawdust.

It is advisable to put weeds in the composter that have not been seeded, so that later you do not have to weed the beds once again.

The use of the tops of diseased plants (burnt from late blight tomatoes, or cucumbers damaged by fungus) in a garden composter is strictly prohibited.

The quality of the finished compost can be improved by egg shells. Just do not use raw egg shells as a compost heap, as salmonella pathogens can get into the compost with it.

It is also not advisable to throw leftover citrus fruits into the garden composter. They strongly oxidize the humus, and worms, one of the main producers of compost, may not like it.

In ordinary compost heaps, it is desirable to sprinkle layers of organic waste with mineral fertilizers. In full-fledged garden composters, it is quite possible to do without this.

How does a composter work

After organics are loaded into the composter, decomposition processes begin inside it. Inside the pile, the temperature rises, which contributes to the decomposition process.

In summer, on particularly hot days, it is necessary to ensure that the compost does not “burn out”, as it will burn. temperature can rise to very high values. To do this, it is necessary to periodically turn up the compost at least to the middle of the garden composter.

With the beginning of the decomposition process, compost worms start up in the compost. They help to process the organic matter in the composter, thereby significantly speeding up the decomposition process.

Composter maintenance

The gardener's only concern when maintaining a garden composter is to periodically mix the ingredients of the compost. The compost mass is not homogeneous, the lower layers of the compost are always more mature, since the composting process started there earlier. To ensure the best nutrient medium for microorganisms, mixing should be carried out once every 2-3 weeks. In this case, it is not necessary to mix the lowest ripened layer.

Before using the garden composter for the first time, it is recommended to cover the bottom with a thin layer of chopped branches (except willow, oak, and aspen) or straw. This is done so that the ventilation and drainage holes are subsequently not clogged with compost mass from the inside.

If you are using a composter with a resealable lid, it must not be left open for long periods of time. The microenvironment for compost maturation is created largely due to the isolation of the contents of the composter from the outside world. The temperature and humidity inside the composter is usually always higher than outside.

After half a year, you will receive a fertilizer completely ready for laying new beds, and the next year it will be possible to mulch the soil with mature compost.

How to speed up the decay process

If you want to get ready-made compost as soon as possible, the decay process can be accelerated with the help of special starter cultures. At the same time, carefully read the instructions on the label. The process of rotting in the composter when using starter cultures is very rapid, the temperature inside the compost heap rises significantly, and if additional ventilation holes are not made inside the composter, organic matter can literally char in the middle of the heap.

How to tell if the compost is ripe

First of all, in color, smell and structure. Ready compost never smells like rot, more like mushrooms or woods. It should be brown in color. If the compost is green, partial ensiling has occurred, if it is black, it has burnt due to too rapid preparation. If there are a lot of earthworms in the compost, say thank you to them and bring them to the garden. There will be biohumus, and, therefore, fertile soil.

How to use compost

Vegetable and berry beds can be arranged directly on the compost. Without digging up the ground, the compost is poured onto a raised bed, on which seedlings are planted. Compost made mainly from green grass is acidic. It is desirable to add wood ash or dolomite flour to it before use.

When planting apple trees and other large plants, it is very useful to add compost to a pre-prepared planting hole. In spring, compost is spread under mature shrubs and trees.

It is also helpful to add a thin layer of compost to heavy clay soil before seeding the lawn.

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