Crop rotation of vegetable crops. What then to plant in the garden After what crop to plant gourds

Crop rotation in the garden is extremely important thing, since any fan of growing country crops is well aware of the fact that the soil is depleted over the years, becomes less nutritious and helps plants develop worse and worse. There are many prerequisites for this. How to avoid a fall in the harvest and make your garden blooming and constantly bearing fruit? Details in this article.

What gives us crop rotation in the garden?

From year to year, pathogens that accumulate in the soil, and various pests degrade the quality of crops grown. If the plantations, which are made by the affectionate love of summer residents, are practically unchanged and do not change their location, then the pest does not leave their homes.

For example, who loves potatoes. If you do not alternate planting potatoes every year with beets, then the number of the Colorado potato beetle will not decrease. And even if you take a lot of measures to destroy it. In addition to the Colorado potato beetle, soil stagnation provokes the appearance of late blight pathogens, as well as the colonization of larvae of other pests that live among the beds.

If we are talking about other cultures, then the same scheme applies to them. A plot that is always planted with the same crop will only increase the number of those harmful beetles that love to feast on fruits and roots. It is very difficult to withstand a huge invasion of insects, therefore, not only those plants that are their favorite delicacy, such as cabbage, tomatoes, cucumbers, celery, and lettuce, will suffer from this factor, but also those that are extremely vulnerable by nature.

The next factor is the increased content of harmful substances in the soil that the system contains. different cultures. These secretions have toxins not only for the surrounding plants, but also for the colina itself, as the root system of vegetables is called.

For example, beets and spinach are the first to be affected. Carrots and squash are more resistant, while leeks are almost immune to colina poison.

Crop rotation helps to avoid the depletion of the vitamins of the country soil. After all, each vegetable has its own set of substances for nutrition, which is incorporated in their cells from birth: the plant needs it for normal development and growth.

Naturally, vegetables, berries and fruits try to extract these substances from the soil when they run out of their “set”. Cabbage respects potassium, but if you plant radishes there, then potassium reserves will decrease somewhat more slowly compared to cabbage, which means that it needs less potassium.

seed planning

To correct the situation with the content and quantity of the necessary substances in the soil, it is only necessary to observe the correct sequence of crops, as well as plant them on the site from year to year in the required sequence. This is called crop rotation and is a whole agricultural science. It’s not worth going too deep into the scientific jungle, it’s enough to follow a few rules and, of course, adhere to good plan sowing.

What then to plant or competent planning of crops using the following rules:

You can not plant the same crop for several years in a row on the same site. The same applies to those plants that are "relatives", since they have a set common pests, and also show the same response to the amount of toxic substances that will release colin. Naturally, they take from the soil the same composition and set of substances necessary for growth. All summer residents who do not comply with this rule can come to the conclusion that their soils will become completely infertile and will be completely depleted in terms of food supply. You will have to bring new soil to the site and fertilize it again, which of course costs a lot of money for lovers of garden plots.
Compliance with a certain break, after which the site should take a break from a certain crop planted on it. The rest period is 2 years. Although many summer residents say that 1 year may be enough if light crops, such as salad with celery, have been planted, a year is still not enough to fully restore nutrients and trace elements in the soil. Some plants will produce better crops if you extend the rest period. For example, for carrots, cucumbers and parsley, this is 4 years, and it is recommended to plant cabbage every 7 years so that the harvest is large enough. Cabbage, like strawberries, is the most capricious element of the garden plot.
It is difficult to overestimate the properties of plants, since not many summer residents suspect that they not only take nutrients from the soil, but also enrich it with their beneficial composition contained in the root system initially. Thus, if you alternate crops correctly, then you save not only the necessary supply of trace elements for this plant, but also improve the composition and structure of the soil for the next crops. At the same time, without doing almost any procedures for this. For example, legumes loosen the soil well and bring a lot of minerals into it. Planting and buckwheat will help saturate the soil with calcium. If you plant dope grass on the sides of your plot, then provide the plants with phosphorus, replacing weeds with tobacco - increase the level of potassium in the soil. And if you use the planting of dioecious nettle as a preventive measure between crops, then your soil will be enriched with iron, which is useful for the growth of many useful vegetable crops. If you follow these rules, you can easily plan the planting of plants for quite a long time. long time to accurately understand their benefits in terms of harvest.
Be sure to use compost after harvest as it helps the soil look fresher and healthier. It's like top dressing for those flowers that the caring hands of the housewives cherish on their windowsill. If you add the plants listed above to the compost, then in addition to fresh trace elements that will come with the growth and development of these contours, you will also receive universal fertilizer, which helps to increase the yield even in those years when the soil seems to be losing ground.
Do not forget also that you can remove pests from the site and thereby increase your crop rotation by planting those plants that repel beetles and do not allow their larvae to develop freely in the garden . For example, a cloud of aphids can be destroyed by planting garlic or tobacco throughout the area. And the Colorado potato beetle is terribly afraid of thyme. Thus, by planting these plants, it is possible to completely expel pests from the site and clear it for planting in the following years.
And the last rule is the observance of some subordination among plants. Vegetables take up nutrition from the soil in different ways, and therefore it is best not to plant a sequence of very demanding crops one after another. It is best to plant light crops after such heavy crops as, for example, potatoes, beets, and cabbage. legumes or lay out the area with a large layer of fertilizer.

Compliance with these rules will help the soil change systemically, and not unilaterally, and in order to increase the concentration of certain species nutrients, the summer resident will only need to carefully monitor and keep records of his crops.

Another added bonus of yearly plant rotation is constant weed control. The scourge of all summer residents can be easily and easily removed from your garden if you plant plants that are insensitive to weeds, such as garlic, onions, carrots and parsley. They are best planted after heavy crops, such as potatoes or peas. The latter give very few weeds, as they are absolutely insensitive to this type of grass.

Planting scheme: your personal crop rotation diary

The above rules are very good for learning the theory of crop rotation, but for many summer residents who are faced with a full load in their gardens for the first time, there may not be enough time to fully study the science of crop rotation and understand the nature of planting plants on the site. To do this, agronomists compile special lists, lists or tables, which indicate which crops should be planted first, which ones second and further, in order of general priority. Let us consider in more detail the most famous crop rotation schemes.

Cabbage

Cabbage is the most difficult vegetable, as it not only often "sicks", but also gathers around itself a large number of pests. Any gardener can easily answer the question: what can be planted after cabbage? Anything but cabbage!

Even other species of this plant can degrade the nutrient complex of the soil very easily. This is an extreme option, and of course, after this plant, you need to fertilize the soil with compost.

Rutabagas and turnips are perfect as predecessor plants, since this group does not differ in a “set” of harmful beetles that are not averse to eating delicious vegetables. After a cabbage leaf, onions or garlic take root best, but carrots, potatoes, and tomatoes can also be planted. Cabbage does not tolerate the neighborhood of tomatoes and beans with parsley. What can be planted in front of cabbage so that the soil is rich enough in a vitamin and mineral layer for our capricious vegetable.

Cabbage grows remarkably after the harvest of radishes, cucumber and carrot crops, as well as after peas and representatives of the onion family. A previous crop of annual grasses such as phacelia or rapeseed is also excellent.

Garlic or onion

Garlic culture is less demanding than cabbage, but it, like onions, cannot be planted in the same place. When using the services of garlic, you need to alternate it with other vegetables. The best option planting vegetables after garlic will be potatoes, a variety of early ripening is perfect. Tomatoes, as well as representatives of legumes or cabbage with cucumbers, become quite suitable.

It is great, of course, to plant annual herbs after garlic, restoring the land for subsequent crops and replenishing the supply of minerals. And phytoncides, substances secreted by garlic with the help of its root system, will help destroy weeds and prevent late blight in neighboring crops.

Such annual herbs that will go well after a garlic bed are wonderful: mustard, phacelia, some varieties of green peas, as well as rapeseed and rye.

After what can you plant onions? Like garlic, it will thrive after harvesting beans, potatoes, and carrots.

cucumbers

Cucumbers are another no less demanding vegetable crop, along with cabbage, so the ground in front of them is usually richly flavored with organic compost and all. It has not been sufficiently studied how much nitrogen exactly cucumbers need, but nitrogen is generally useful for any plants, like hay for a cow. Therefore, for a good herbage, and in particular cucumbers, it is necessary to pour in a powder that enriches the soil with this substance quite generously.

What should be planted after cucumbers on next year? You need to turn your attention to something lighter, such as beets, turnips, carrots, parsley or celery. It is strictly forbidden to plant cabbage in the garden after cucumber, which needs very fertile soil. After cucumbers, the soil is depleted almost completely, in fact, as well as after the cabbage itself.

To improve the composition of the soil after the cucumber family, it is better to plant legumes, as well as tomatoes, corn and lettuce.

Don't fall for the misconception that pouring a bucket of compost onto your garden bed can make the soil fertile. It becomes fertile over time due to the fact that it combines a certain set of nutrients and other beneficial trace elements.

It is best to observe the correct crop rotation than to constantly support the soil with fertilizers and nothing more. This will cause the soil to cease to be alive and, like a victim of plastic surgery, will constantly wait for a new dose of tightening.

Strawberry

Another demanding berry representative of summer cottage crops is strawberries. This berry drinks all the juices from the soil so strongly that after it is transplanted (every 4 years), the soil is so carefully fertilized precisely and mineral top dressing that the layer of compost sometimes reaches five centimeters. This should be done in the fall, after the entire garden has been carefully dug up and all the necessary additives have been made.

Strawberries are very fond of nitrogen, so after it you need to plant those crops that enrich the soil in just such a way. chemical. These are beans, peas and beans, they secrete the largest amount of this substance with their root system.

Also, after the strawberry bushes, a huge number of pests remain, and garlic will help gardeners here: it will not only clean the soil of the remaining slugs that love to feast on strawberries, but also help the soil acquire special phytoncidal properties. Your soil will bloom and hurt less. It is extremely important to observe the planting of raspberries, as a berry similar to strawberries. These sweet fruits have common pests, so it is better not to plant them together.

The best option is actually to plant flowers in place of the strawberry bush: peonies, daffodils or violets, which help the soil acquire that supply of minerals that was completely lost during the growth of strawberries.

Potato

The heaviest and densest crop among vegetables sucks out a lot of phosphorus and potassium from the soil, so the soil will lack these particular trace elements. You can replenish these costs with the help of minerals, or you can do it easier and plant the site with annual herbs that emit these substances with their root system.

Required annual herbs include:

dope grass;
peas;
rape;
rye;
phacelia.

If it is not possible to completely remove the potato crop from the site, then try planting a pumpkin nearby, it introduces just the very necessary minerals that the soil needs to grow the potato crop at the proper level. However, remember that the second harvest will be significantly smaller than the first, this may even affect the size of the vegetables.

After potatoes, it is better not to plant tomatoes, eggplants and all nightshade crops. Before potatoes, it is best to plant pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, cabbage or onions.

Tomatoes

Tomatoes will also be a rather capricious culture, and after them it is better not to plant eggplant, potatoes and peppers. After the royal tomatoes, as in relation to potatoes, one-year-old grasses must be planted, filling the soil with various missing useful vitamins and micronutrients. If this fails, then beans and beans are good.

After what crops is it better to plant tomatoes? Of course, after potatoes and carrots. Zucchini, pumpkin, carrots, beets and green salad will also feel great after tomatoes. Of course, carrots behave better, since a tomato is that few vegetables after which carrots can be planted completely fearlessly.

Beet

Beetroot is the most unpretentious vegetable crop, so after it you can plant almost any vegetable, and potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades are perfect for this.

Fertilizers in the soil still have to be applied and properly feed the soil. After beet tubers good harvest they also show garlic, onions and carrots.

Carrot

A vegetable of average capriciousness that needs a strong and strong shoulder. Therefore, excellent predecessors of carrots will be: beets, tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage. On the one hand, carrots are an active vegetable, and on the other hand, they are quite dependent. It needs special mineral fertilizers, but at the same time it has a fairly light vegetable character. Carrots can grow to perfect different places your site.

Can I plant after onions? Here he is that “strong” predecessor or even a neighbor who will help carrots and grow into an excellent vegetable. Onions release special substances that help repel ticks, which often settle on carrot beds. Therefore, a pair such as carrots and onions is the perfect combination.

What to plant after carrots? After it, you can plant any vegetables in the garden, except for potatoes and cabbage.

Pepper

Pepper is related to those vegetable representatives whose root system lives better in the upper layer of the soil, where it feels best, so after it it is good to plant vegetables that have longer and deeper roots. This is primarily onions, garlic, cucumbers, beans and any other greens. This also includes any root crops, such as beets, carrots, or radishes.

After what crops is it better to plant pepper? After any, except potatoes and cabbage.

Peas

An almost ideal predecessor for half the garden is peas. It will enrich the soil with nitrogen, but will also help the growth of other vegetables. What to plant next year after peas? This vegetable also nourishes the soil with potassium and phosphorus, therefore, after it, tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants, peppers, beets, melons, zucchini, and so on perfectly bear fruit.

The only minus of peas is susceptibility to fungal disease. Its root begins to rot with copious amounts of water, so peas should never be poured. After it, the soil is completely unsuitable for planting other beans, which can also “get sick”. All this is because the spores remain in the ground for five to six years.

To collect all the knowledge visually, you can make a special table of alternating vegetables in the garden or crop rotation, which will help you visually evaluate those crops that live well together in rotation. On the contrary, arrange all those vegetables that are undesirable for planting in future seasons. You can also put all your knowledge in order and make another list. It seems difficult only at first glance - you need to compile another table: "what then to plant in the garden."

Cultures "neighbors" and "enemies"

Another important issue when planting and establishing your crop rotation in the garden is the rules of neighboring crops. Many garden residents have a certain influence on each other, which can be both good and bad. In order to avoid mistakes in this regard and get a good and bountiful harvest, you need to master the rules for the correct planting of cultures of "friends and enemies".

It all depends on the root system present in each plant, because toxins released into the soil can either organize the protection of neighboring vegetables from problems, or attract them, thereby shortening the life of neighboring plants.

The following vegetable crops are well tolerated by joint plantings:

Potatoes and beans, cabbage, corn, spinach, eggplant, horseradish, carrots, radish, dill, lettuce. All these plants bring invaluable benefits to potatoes, sucking out excess water from the soil, and onions and garlic located close will build protection for the root crop from late blight, which can affect this crop.
Garlic will provide positive influence on many garden neighbors who are planted next to him. Best for suburban area will look like a tandem of garlic and strawberries, as these two crops benefit each other mutually. Garlic helps strawberries get rid of pests and diseases, and the red berry helps garlic to get more yield. Similarly, a bulb of garlic will become larger if carrots grow nearby.
Next to the cucumbers, it is better to plant dill and corn, which enriches the soil with microelements.
An excellent neighbor for carrots will be peas, and for peas themselves, potatoes, tomatoes or eggplants will be the best neighbor.
Separately, it should be said about the flowers that are adjacent to many vegetable crops, for example, gladioli, carnations and roses, which will help not only enrich the soil with a vitamin-mineral complex, but also protect vegetables from pests.

Cultures that absolutely cannot get along with each other:

Nuts practically do not get along with anyone, as they depress root system most vegetables releasing juglone into the soil.
Wormwood and legumes planted at the same time also become a bad neighbor for vegetable crops.
Fennel is generally a persona non grata in the garden, because all cultures feel bad with it. It is better to plant it separately from others and next to a small flower garden or shrub.
Crops that do not grow well together include potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, and strawberries.
Eggplants and tomatoes generally do not tolerate other nightshade representatives. Therefore, if you risk planting peppers nearby, then both will develop poorly.
A pair of cabbage and strawberries will also have a bad neighborhood, since the first is the most demanding vegetable of all country crops, and the second surrounds itself huge amount pests that can damage the root system of cabbage.

Having memorized these rules by heart, the summer resident can still experiment on his site. Because it happens that a large neighborhood can be harmful, and a small amount of "communication" does not affect the growth of other cultures at all.

For example, valerian yarrow or nettle, which are planted in small quantities on the edge of the garden, in no way affect the yield of vegetable crops, on the contrary, they even help them, enriching the soil with the necessary substances and microelements.

Thus, any gardener can master such a concept as crop rotation, and putting it into practice will plan sowing in his summer cottage for many years. This will help keep the soil from losing all the nutrients, and also help the plants, with the help of the forces of nature, maintain a normal balance. At the same time, the summer resident will not have to spend money on various top dressings, since the fertilizer of the site will go naturally.

Rotation table

When planning future crops, it is necessary first of all to take into account sequence of cultures. This is very important for the future harvest. After all, the correct crop rotation allows you to avoid damage by pests and diseases, as well as maintain soil fertility. Conversely, when growing the same vegetables for several years in a row, the supply of nutrients in the beds is depleted and soil infections accumulate.

Experienced gardeners always take this factor into account, which allows them to get higher yields. In order not to get confused in the "five acres", it is worth drawing a plan for your garden for the coming summer and rough plan landings on next year, respecting correct order rotation of vegetable crops.

Cabbage

It is forbidden plant cabbage and other cruciferous plants (radish, radish) in the same place sooner than 2-3 years later. White cabbage is best placed after potatoes, tomatoes, onions; allowed landing after beans, peas, carrots and beets.

Potato

The best predecessors for potatoesla - cabbage and various root crops. A bad predecessor for potatoes is a tomato, since these crops have common pests and pathogens.Growing potatoes in the same place should not be earlier than -3.

cucumbers

For cucumbers, you should look for new ones every year.oh place. They are placed after cauliflower and early white cabbage. You can also grow them after tomatoes, potatoes, peas and beets.

Tomatoes

According to the rules of agricultural technology, it is impossible to grow tomatoes after potatoes, since, we repeat, the diseases and pests of these crops are the same. Good Predecessors for tomatoes - cauliflower and early white cabbage, pumpkin and legumes, root crops and onions are acceptable.

If you plant tomatoes in the same place every year, then the soil in this area becomes acidic, so every fall for deep digging of the soil must be paid fluffy lime in small quantities (from 50 to 100 g per 1 sq.m.), since tomatoes grow better on neutral soils (pH 6.5-7).

Beet

Beet cultivation at one place should be done no more than once every three or four years. Beets grow well after cucumbers, zucchini, squash, early cabbage, tomatoes, early potatoes, legumes. Undesirable plant beets after vegetables from the haze family (chard, spinach, beets again).

Onion

You can't have onions in one place plant more three to four years contract.The best predecessors of onions are crops that were subjected to large doses of organic fertilizers, as well as cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkin, cabbage, tomatoes, and potatoes. On heavy clay soils onions will not give a good harvest; they prefer light, loose, fertile soils and good lighting.

Garlic

Grow garlic in one place can no more than two years, otherwise soil contamination with a stem nematode cannot be avoided.

It is better to start garlic after cucumbers, early potatoes, early cabbage and other early harvested crops (except onions).

Carrot

Sown after early potatoes, cabbage, green crops (excluding lettuce), placement after tomatoes and peas is allowed.

eggplant

The best predecessors for eggplant are cucumber, onion, early ripe cabbage, perennial herbs. You can not plant eggplant where potatoes, tomatoes, physalis, as well as peppers and eggplants grew last year.

strawberries

The best predecessors for strawberries: radishes, lettuce, spinach, dill, peas, beans, mustard, radish, parsley, turnips, carrots, onions, garlic, celery, and flowers (tulips, daffodils, marigolds). On poor soil, the best predecessors of strawberries are mustard, phacelia (they are also honey plants). Potatoes, tomatoes and other nightshades, as well as cucumbers, are not suitable as predecessors. After them, plots can be occupied with strawberries only after three to four years.

Strawberry

It is good to plant strawberries after radishes, beans, mustard, radishes, peas, parsley, garlic. Potatoes, tomatoes and cucumbers are of little use as predecessors. You can not place strawberries after all species of the Compositae family (sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke) and all types of buttercups.

Together is better

Many years of experience and ingenuity of gardeners suggested another the right decision- joint landings. This is both convenient and allows small area get a large assortment of vegetables. However, not all vegetables can be placed in close proximity, since not all crops favorably act on each other. This is explained by the mutual action of phytoncides and other volatile substances released by plants.

Carrot can be planted together with peas, marjoram, onions (this is even useful, since joint plantings with onions scare the carrot fly away from it).

Onion amicably coexists with table beets, chicory, carrots.

Peas and vegetable beans get along well with potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, cucumbers, pumpkin, melon and watermelon.

To potatoes it is quite possible to plant vegetable beans and sweet corn,

to cucumber- dill and corn, radish will benefit from the neighborhood with watercress, and peas - with mustard leaf.

It has been proven that potatoes and beans, garlic and black currants have a positive effect on each other.

You can make the following bed:

plant parsley, lettuce, and sow garlic between them.

As for the unwanted neighborhood, then cannot be planted nearby potatoes and cucumbers, white cabbage, strawberries and tomatoes, tomatoes and pumpkin.

If legumes are placed next to onions, both crops will be oppressed.

In addition, if space permits,highlight small plot for growing green manure herbs:

clover, lupine, alfalfa and others.

Thus, you will give the earth a rest, gain strength for the cultivation of vegetable crops.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this knowledge.

To increase the yield of crops grown in the summer cottage allows crop rotation. Prolonged cultivation of plants on the same bed leads to soil depletion, the accumulation of pests and diseases in it. The alternation of crops is also used in order to obtain 2-3 crops from the site annually (we are talking about compacted and repeated crops). That is why many summer residents think about what and after what you can plant in the garden. Moreover, it is recommended to draw up a plan for the placement of crops on the site every year in compliance with the order of alternation of crops. In practice, this gives a better yield. next year.

Main rule: Try not to return the same culture to its original place earlier than 3-4 years later. The later the re-seeding occurs, the better.

Vegetable crops that are similar in cultivation technology can (and conveniently) be placed in the garden nearby. In this regard, cultures are divided into the following groups:

Depending on this classification, plants are recommended to be moved around the site. And perennial vegetables are convenient to plant along the fence. So, the authors of the manual “Garden. Practical Tips"Recommend to alternate crops like this:

Table number 1: Good predecessors of vegetable crops in the garden

In another source (book " Biological bases obtaining high yields of vegetable crops”), we find the following table:

Table number 2: What then can be planted next year

(Compiled on the basis of an analysis of the influence of predecessors on the yield of other vegetable crops):

Rotation table #3

(Source: My Favorite Dacha magazine)

Analyzing the data of three tables, let's go specifically for some cultures:

Then plant...

Onion

The best predecessor for onions are: cucumber, tomato, as well as early white cabbage, cauliflower and early potatoes. Acceptable predecessors are legumes and green crops. This refers to the cultivation of onions for turnips and sets.

Carrot

Like carrots, beets are best planted after onions, cucumbers and early potatoes. Planting of root crops and after cabbage, tomatoes is allowed.

cucumbers

For cucumbers, the best predecessors are: potatoes, tomatoes, turnip onions, cabbage (early white and cauliflower), root crops, legumes (excluding beans) and green crops. It is permissible to plant cucumbers after radishes, beets and carrots.

Tomatoes

Tomatoes can be planted after an impressive list of crops: white cabbage (early and late), cauliflower, cucumbers, legumes and green crops (including radishes), root crops, turnips.

What to plant after...

garlic

Of all three tables, only one mentions garlic as a precursor. The source says that after garlic, it is permissible to plant table beets. And in the first source (not in the table, but in the text itself) it says that after harvesting onions and garlic, summer potatoes can be planted. Potatoes are also recommended to be grown in the aisles of garlic. They coexist perfectly. But the best neighborhood in the beds is garlic and strawberries. And if we consider that onions and garlic belong to the same group of plants, then their predecessors may also have common ones.

cabbage

After cabbage, you can plant tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, turnip onions and sets, cucumbers, potatoes, zucchini and squash, pumpkin, green crops, legumes.

Ogurtsov

Cucumbers are good predecessors for cabbage, carrots, beets, tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, onions, radishes, turnips, radishes, garlic, dill, eggplant.

potato

After potatoes, it is good to plant cabbage, onions, root crops, cucumbers, greens and legumes, zucchini, pumpkins, squash, garlic.

Pepper

Pepper is not named in any of the tables as a predecessor, so we would recommend paying attention to its belonging to the Nightshade group (along with tomato and eggplant). Plants of this group may have common precursors.

beets

After beets, it is ALLOWABLE to plant white and cauliflower, onion, carrot, cucumber. And good - garlic, tomato.

Tomatoes

After tomatoes, white and cauliflower, green crops, legumes, and garlic are planted. Permissible - cucumbers, onions and root vegetables.

Kabachkov

Luke

We hope that the tables and lists compiled by us on the basis of reference books for gardeners and gardeners will help you decide on the alternation of crops on the site, develop a crop rotation plan for the next year and understand what is better to plant in the garden in the summer season 2018 😉 Great harvests for you !

Hello dear readers!

In the comments in the spring, I am often asked questions about the rules of crop rotation, that is, about what can be planted after after carrots, cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes, onions, cucumbers, etc.

Today is April 21 and I think that I am not too late with this article. The main plantings end in our zone of the Middle Volga region, as a rule, by mid-May, however, I will answer the questions of readers, because many plant carrots, radishes, beets for winter storage until the end of May, or even until June 10 - 15.

In order to have a good harvest, you need to know and follow a few rules. One of essential rules agricultural technology - compliance with crop rotation.

If last year you grew carrots, then this year after it, it is better to place vegetable beans, onions, and tomatoes in this area. At the same time, it is desirable that you introduce humus in the fall.

In the beds where she grew last year early ripe carrots, you can place garlic, potatoes, cabbage.

White early ripe cabbage a good predecessor for cucumber, garlic, onion and tomato.

late-ripening white cabbage vacates the area very late (after frost), not all gardeners have time to dig the soil before winter after harvesting, so in the spring it is necessary to dig the site and prepare it for sowing or planting the main crop. Therefore, this crop must be a late planted or late planted crop. These are peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, pumpkin, zucchini. cucumbers, beans, vegetable corn.

After potatoes, it will be necessary to level the area very carefully. Usually cultivated late-ripening potatoes. Potatoes are the best predecessor for onions and root crops. After potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers should not be planted.

Tomatoes are a good predecessor for radishes, lettuce, dill, vegetable corn, and onions. If no viral diseases are observed, then cucumbers, squash, zucchini can be placed after the tomato.

Cucumbers are a crop in which the bulk of the roots are in the upper, 20 - 25 cm soil layer. Therefore, after them, I recommend placing cultures with a deeply penetrating root system. These are such crops as table beets, carrots (if there is a site clean from weeds), potatoes, tomatoes (if there are no viral diseases), cabbage.

After the onion, which was planted on the turnip last year, cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage, vegetable peas, and corn can be placed. In extreme cases, you can plant table roots.

I hope my answer to the question what can be planted after in the spring in the garden, will help you when planning where to plant the main crops.

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Growing vegetables and herbs in your garden for many today is both a useful and a favorite pastime. Of course, it is very important to get a good harvest from your site. Best result achieved when the crop rotation in the garden is properly adjusted.

Importance of crop rotation

If the same plants are constantly planted in one place, then their own enzymes (root secretions) poison the soil and the yield drops. So, for example, with long-term cultivation of celery, tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, cabbage in the soil, pathogens accumulate in the soil. various diseases. Therefore, crop rotation is necessary in the garden, that is, an annual change of places for growing crops on the site.

The same crops and related crops are recommended to be planted in the same places at least after three seasons. It is important to comply with this condition, because different cultures require different fertilizers. So, for example, cucumbers, cabbage, zucchini, leek, pumpkin need organic fertilizers; carrots, beets, parsley - in mineral; onions, garlic, herbs, tomatoes - both in minerals and in organic matter.

Benefits of crop rotation

The alternation of crops in the garden allows you to:

reduce the impact of pests and pathogens that have accumulated in the soil, especially dangerous for the past crop and less dangerous for the next;
improve the uptake of nutrients from the soil by plants;
more rational use of mineral and organic fertilizers, taking into account their effect and aftereffect on different cultures;
avoid negative phenomena that are caused by root secretions of this plant species;
carry out deep digging gradually (only for crops that need deep loosening of the soil).

Organization of crop rotation

In order to organize in the garden and not get confused in the planting sites, the following solution is often suggested. The entire garden is conditionally divided into four zones (although three are possible). We plant crops in groups. The first group is vegetables that need organic matter. The second group - vegetables that need mineral fertilizers. The third group is vegetables, for which both organics and minerals are important. And the fourth group is potatoes.

For the next season, you need to choose such places for planting so that the previous crops are suitable for them:

Legumes - cabbage, potatoes, root crops, tomatoes.
Potatoes - legumes and early cabbage.
Cabbage - root vegetables, legumes, tomatoes, potatoes.
Tomatoes, peppers - legumes, root vegetables, cabbage.
Onion - potatoes, pumpkin, root vegetables, legumes.
Root crops - potatoes, tomatoes, early cabbage.
Greens - legumes, cabbage, potatoes, pumpkin.
Cucumbers and pumpkins - root crops, early cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes.

You also need to know invalid predecessors. For example, do not fit:

How to increase productivity

Observing certain rules of crop rotation in the garden, on one piece of land you can get two crops a year. For example, before planting peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, you can spinach, lettuce. After cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, sow turnips and radishes. After early potatoes, plant kohlrabi, colored radishes, lettuce, peppers, and spinach grow well after peas.

Between the rows of slow-growing vegetables, you can plant fast-growing ones. For example, between the rows of carrots, beets, celery, you can grow lettuce, radishes, spinach, green onion. Radish and lettuce can also be grown between rows of cabbage (early and late). Greenery grows well along the edges of the beds.

It is useful to grow more thermophilic plants (cucumbers, peppers, eggplants) among taller ones (tomatoes, peas, corn).

J. Seymour's Rules

If potatoes were planted on heavy, damp soils, then other root crops can be grown there in the third or fourth year.
Legumes love well-calcified soil, which potatoes do not like. Therefore, it is better not to plant potatoes after legumes.
Cabbage lime is loved, but not fresh. They are best planted after legumes.
Radishes, lettuces, cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini love rotted manure and compost. After them, it is good to grow root crops.
In some places, you can constantly plant greens (lettuce, spinach, dill).

Rotation table

So, to make it easier to organize crop rotation in the garden, the crop rotation table will provide information in a more visual form.

Rotation of crops

culture	predecessors
culture	Best	Permissible	Bad
Cabbage varieties of medium and late	Legumes, cucumber, carrots, early potatoes	-	Beets, cabbage
Beet	Cucumber, greens, green manure, potatoes	Tomatoes, onions, carrots, cauliflower and cabbage	Beets, cabbage
Cauliflower and early varieties	Legumes, onion, cucumber, green manure	Tomatoes, carrots	Root vegetables, cabbage
Cucumber, zucchini, patisson, pumpkin, zucchini	Onion, cabbage of early and medium varieties, cauliflower, garlic, legumes	Potato, beetroot, cucumber, greens	Tomatoes, carrots, late cabbage
Tomatoes	Turnips, cucumbers, greens, green manure, cauliflower	Average and late cabbage, beets, onions	Potatoes, tomatoes
Onion garlic	Cucumber, potatoes, legumes, cauliflower and cabbage	Tomatoes, beets, onions, late cabbage	Carrots, greens
Potato	Legumes, cauliflower and cabbage, cucumbers, green manure	Greens, cabbage, carrots, beets	Potatoes, tomatoes
Legumes	All varieties of cabbage, potatoes, onions, garlic, cucumbers	Tomatoes, greens, table root crops, green manure	Legumes
Greens	Legumes, cauliflower and cabbage, onions, cucumbers, green manure	Potatoes, tomatoes, greens, beets	late cabbage, carrots

"Conveyor" of vegetables

The so-called vegetable conveyor is very convenient for the constant supply of fresh herbs and vegetables to the table. This conveyor begins when we plant greenery in the garden in the spring. Crop rotation in this case helps to achieve the best results.

The sequence of receipt on the table of greens, vegetables, root crops:

In spring: feathers of perennial chives, onions, parsley, Jerusalem artichoke tubers left for the winter.
A little later: sorrel, young nettle, rhubarb, onion feather, planted at the end of April.
Then: dill and radish.
From the end of May to the beginning of June: salad mustard, spinach, seedling-grown kale, basil, coriander.
In mid-June: early tomatoes and cucumbers, beets, bunch carrots.
End of June: and early.
July: tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, beets, zucchini, carrots, broccoli, early potatoes.
August: patissons, legumes, corn, turnips, pumpkins, eggplants, sweet peppers.
Autumn and winter: celery (potted), chives, watercress, lettuce alfalfa, home-grown mustard.

Given all the advantages of this approach, it is worth remembering about creativity when organizing landings. Crop rotation in the garden will help with this, but you need to apply it according to your needs, capabilities and desires.