Fiberboard for linoleum is the cheapest way to prepare the base. Learn how to properly organize your workflow to get the best result. Laying fiberboard on the floor. Technology features and useful tips What to do so that the fiberboard does not go in waves

Fibreboard is made from wood fibers that are bonded to each other through heat and pressure. The attachment of the fibers to each other is achieved through bonding and the wood's own adhesion properties. The fibers on the surface layer of the board are often coarser than those in the middle layer. This gives the slab an even and compact surface. Glue and other additives can be used to improve the properties of the board. The main raw material for fiber board is wood fiber, and the amount of additives is usually less than 1%.

The scope of the fiberboard is very wide.

Paraffin is commonly used as a water repellent adhesive. Starch, artificial resin and hardening oil are used as binders to increase strength.

The scope of its application is quite wide: from using it as the back side of furniture, arches and up to floors when performing repair work and in the decoration of new premises.


Fiberboard is an environmentally friendly material

Coating advantages and disadvantages

The advantage is the evenness and smoothness of the sheet. Because of what it is used to level the floor of fiberboard in old buildings and in new construction. It can act as the base itself or be laid on the surface of a dilapidated and in need of replacement coating, hiding its irregularities and defects. This is also practical - there is no need to dismantle the old floor, which is used as the basis for a new one.


Fiberboard has its advantages and disadvantages.

Of great importance is the ease and speed of installation work due to the ease of processing and cutting, packing, low weight, which even one specialist can handle with laying. And also the possession of a moderate price for many buyers, durability, good sound insulation, high strength of the material. It withstands loads very well due to the dense structure of the pressed wood material, which allows it to withstand mechanical stress and place massive pieces of furniture on a seemingly fragile hardboard floor. Coating with water-repellent varnishes or paints, along with synthetic additives and antiseptics added to the composition, give the boards superior qualities in comparison with natural wood floors.

Fiberboard sheets are characterized by plasticity, due to which they retain their original properties under conditions of temperature changes while maintaining moderate humidity.

It is worth noting the ecological composition of the fiberboard flooring material, as a result of which it can be laid in rooms where allergy sufferers live.


Fiberboard sheets are very plastic and durable

IMPORTANT!

  1. The special composition of the material high density and breathability are the reasons why fiberboards do not change their shape and are therefore able to effectively insulate buildings for more than 80 years.
  2. In the unlikely event of a fire, the surfaces of the fibreboards slow down the rate of fire propagation through the structure - this is class E flammability. This results in increased fire resistance for the entire building structure.

The disadvantages of fiberboard on the floor are as follows: a simple texture for most interiors, combustibility, brittleness when bending the canvas, in the absence of proper processing it is absolutely not moisture resistant (deforms, swells), the surface without a paint layer is erased in short time, which immediately manifests itself when moving cabinets, sofas, tables, chairs and similar loads.


Fiberboard sheets can last 80 years with correct operation

How to choose fiberboard for the floor wisely

First of all, it is necessary to get an idea about the nature of the future loads on the floor to be covered, the conditions of dampness or dryness and the regime of low, normal or high temperatures.

The most commonly used size for most floors is 1.7 m x 2.745 m per slab with a thickness of 3 - 3.2 mm. Moisture-resistant boards with oil impregnation 6 mm thick are also produced, which are advisable to lay on the floors of the first floor and in wet rooms.


Picking up fiberboard sheets for specific purposes is not difficult

By brand, they are divided into M - soft sheets Fiberboard, T - hard, ST - super hard with an unpainted or painted front layer. Based on the purpose of the rooms, choose plates of a suitable brand.

Harder boards (hardboard) are used as a substrate for laminate (laminated flooring), parquet or parquet board, linoleum and for better thermal and sound insulation of the floor. In addition to flooring, such fiberboard sheets are used for the installation of intra-apartment partitions, wall cladding, and for lining panel systems.


Give preference to trusted manufacturers

Particle board boards can be painted and laminated. All general products intended for interior painting wooden surfaces, suitable for painting boards.

In the event that the floor is leveled with subsequent painting, it will be right to choose special decorative sheets Fiberboard, which, like parquet, can be laid out in patterns.

When buying floor tiles, you should pay attention to the fact that all selected canvases are even, have the same surface appearance, dimensions and thickness. By purchasing given material, it is important to consider the characteristics of the bars. They should be conifers wood of the second or third quality grade, dry, treated with special flame retardant compositions, without visible large knots, fungi and other similar defects. However, small cracks in the wood are acceptable. If mold and fungi are found, these areas are cleaned and a fungicidal solution is applied on top of them to prevent damage to the new coating.

During transport and storage, boards must be protected from dryness and moisture, dirt, sunlight, contact with the ground, dents and scratches. Fiberboard is stored face down on a flat base. If necessary, supporting timber is used at intervals of 0.5 meters.


When transporting, make sure that the plates are not damaged.

Laying fiberboard on a wooden floor: installation features

When constructing a floor that provides for laying out a log, it is required to level the surface with a cement-sand screed or pour a self-leveling mixture with a layer thickness of approximately 50 mm. It is poured onto the prepared swept and washed base building sand medium size and then the liquid solution is poured, evenly distributed over the surface.

After the preparation has hardened, in increments of about 20-40 cm, wooden logs are laid, hiding the slope, level difference and other defects. In order for the logs to lie in the same plane, linings from particle board. Then the fiberboard is laid.


Before laying the slabs, prepare the subfloor

Before laying fiberboard on the subfloor, preparatory work should be done. First you need to bring the sheets into the room so that they stay there for two or three days. Or, if there is not enough time, you can treat each plate on the reverse side with a cotton swab or brush slightly moistened with water, fold back sides and leave for one day. Then they carefully grind (if there are irregularities), clean, dry, remove dust and apply a primer, which should dry for eight to twelve hours, on a wooden base.

How to lay fiberboard on a wooden floor? It is required to outline the starting point for laying the first slab, fixing it in several places. Usually, this is the corner by the window. Then it is recommended to check the pre-installation dry coincidence of dimensions and edges. If necessary, the extreme sheets are cut to fit the outlines of the room and openings. It is important to pay attention to leave gaps of four to six millimeters from the wall surface for possible expansion of the floor covering with increasing temperature.


Before laying, the slabs must be measured and cut.

When the base is prepared, the substrate under the fiberboard is laid on the wooden floor made of polyethylene film.

Glue is applied to the entire surface of each sheet or bituminous mastic and fades. Let it soak for half an hour. A thin layer of glue or mastic is also evenly distributed on the floor.

The laying of fiberboard is carried out as follows: the first layer of slabs is laid on the base. If such a need arises, how to lay the second and third layers of boards on the wooden floor, their further laying is carried out. Then the resulting coating is fixed, for which there are three main types of fasteners:

  • furniture stapler staples 12-14 mm wide;
  • nails with a closed head with a diameter of 1 to 1.5 mm and a length of 20 to 25 mm;
  • self-tapping screws with a countersunk head with a diameter of about 3 mm and a length of 25 to 35 mm.

The cracks formed during the installation process are puttied with special putties to deform the seams, after drying which it is worth sanding the uneven areas with a sandpaper or using a grinder. Also remove any remaining adhesive that has come out between the sheets.


Cracks that form during operation can be puttied

Slab cutting process

Most often, the parameters of the plates do not fully correspond to the room, which causes the need for their trimming. To do this, you can use the following cutting equipment:

  • a circular saw with a laser guide, equipped with discs for sawing wood panels;
  • "Bulgarian" with preliminary application of precise markings;
  • tool for cutting wood, roofing material, film, etc.;
  • electric jigsaw with wood saw;
  • metal scissors.

There are several ways to cut a slab

To accurately cut holes for engineering Communication, wall protrusions or niches for heating radiators, it is best to use a sharp knife, a universal tool or a jigsaw.

Cut off much more than required, parts of the sheets can be hidden under the plinth, and the excess is unlikely to be cut off.

With a lack of experience, you can practice on an unnecessary piece and prepare cardboard templates in advance, according to which the markings will be transferred to the surface.

Retailers, wholesalers or supermarkets may offer slicing services facing materials, including fibreboard and chipboard, and it is necessary to provide an accurate plan of the rooms. Cutting with a machine allows you to get a better edge. And the fitting of the recesses for the pipelines will have to be done independently.


The hardboard floor can be made independently if you follow the recommendations

If the fibreboards are intact and dry, they can be reused in certain cases. Reuse is the most popular in relation to the "recycling" of fibreboard.

Video: We lay fiberboard on the floor

Video: Types of wood boards

It is highly recommended to level the wood floor before installing laminate flooring. Laminate flooring is a fairly popular floor covering. But a prerequisite for its installation is a flat floor. That is why it is leveled with plywood or other methods.

Why is it necessary to level a wooden floor under a laminate?

Before starting the installation of the laminate, you need to take care of the perfect evenness of the floors. The alignment process depends on the initial state floor covering. If you treat this procedure with disdain, then the laminate will quickly become unusable, begin to crack, lose its attractive appearance.

By leveling the wood floor before laying the laminate, you can significantly extend its life.

In places of irregularities, the finish coating will crack and change shape. If there are elevations, the laminate will begin to swell. If the base is loosened, then the coating itself will begin to diverge. That is why it is necessary to take all necessary measures to level the floor.

If the presence of irregularities is a couple of millimeters, then it is not necessary to level the coating. It is enough to apply a thick substrate.

Laminate is quite popular among floor coverings. It is made of wood and covered with protective layer, which prevents mechanical and chemical influences. It is widely used in both residential buildings and office buildings.

Benefits of laminate:

  • Attractive appearance;
  • Acceptable price;
  • Easy installation;
  • Quality.

Perform alignment wooden base with your own hands is real. At the same time, the pricing policy of the issue is acceptable. You don’t need a lot of tools for the procedure, only desire.

How to level an old wooden floor under a laminate: methods and techniques

The alignment procedure has several methods. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages. To determine best option for your case, you need to familiarize yourself with each of them.

Floor leveling methods:

  • Manual or mechanical scraping;
  • Use of plywood from OSB, chipboard or fiberboard;
  • Self-leveling compounds;
  • Putty from shavings and PVA glue;
  • The use of lags;
  • Concrete screed.

Cycling involves the use of special grinding machines. This technique takes enough time and effort. You will have to deepen all the nails and screws so that their caps do not peek out. If this is not done, then the failure of the unit is inevitable.

Old wooden floor needs to be leveled with a grinder

If the floor has some differences, then leveling with plywood is suitable. It's simple and effective method. Plywood raises the floor by only a couple of centimeters, which is very convenient in case of a room with a low ceiling.

For the best effect, you need to use two layers: the first of fiberboard, the second - plywood. In this case, the joints should not coincide.

For small irregularities, self-leveling compounds can be used. Before leveling, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work: replace damaged boards, putty cracks, fix loose boards, prime the floor and take care of waterproofing. You can use an additional reinforced polyethylene mesh, which should be laid on a small layer of the mixture. It is used if the self-leveling floor in height should exceed 1 cm.

Leveling with putty - the most cheap way. Preparatory work with this method includes fixing the guide bars. The interval between them should be 50-60 cm. The mixture should be applied to a clean floor treated with degreasing agents. After drying, you need to fix the plywood on top.

When the old floor has completely fallen into disrepair, it is better to use a mount on the logs. To do this, get rid of the old boards. Expanded clay is poured between the lags, then a layer of polystyrene or GVL goes and everything is covered with plywood.

Concrete screed is often used when leveling the floor. The disadvantage of this procedure is the large weight of concrete. That is why the rough wooden floor must still be strong enough to withstand the desired load.

Leveling a wooden floor: how to determine the presence of irregularities

In order to properly level the floor and ensure the durability of the floor covering, the necessary measures must be taken. This can be done in several ways. But before such a procedure, it is necessary to examine the quality of the wooden base.

To determine the presence of irregularities in the wooden floor, you can use the level

Parameters for evaluating the quality of the floor:

  1. The presence of insects and rot. Need to study carefully wood flooring at both sides. In the absence of traces of harmful influence, the floor does not need to be changed.
  2. Flatness of the floor. For this they can use laser level or visual assessment. If you have the skills, you can resort to the help of the building level.
  3. The presence of bumps and bumps. To do this, pull two ropes and monitor the contact of the thread with the floor.

Before the procedure for determining irregularities, it is necessary to free the floor from any objects. This will help to more accurately determine the presence of defects in the flooring. You can use any of the methods to check the evenness of the floors. You can also use the mounting level or hydraulic level.

Degrees of roughness:

  • Small - 5-20 mm;
  • Medium - 20-60 mm;
  • Large - from 60 mm.

After determining the irregularities, you can choose the leveling method. The most optimal is the laying of plywood. This is a simple option that everyone can do on their own.

The sequence of leveling the floor with plywood under the laminate

This technique does not take much effort and does not require special skills. We level the floor ourselves with our own hands. All you need is a desire and a set necessary fixtures and materials.

Plywood floor leveling tools:

  • Middle hammer;
  • Perforator;
  • Screwdriver;
  • Roulette;
  • Level.

Thanks to plywood, even serious floor irregularities can be hidden, resulting in a flat surface.

Fixing plywood is the most effective way to level the floor. It can be used when the base is completely unusable or has severe irregularities. But at the same time, all power components must be strong enough.

The sequence of work on leveling the floor with plywood:

  1. First you need to fix the lags. To do this, you need to determine the zero point to which the plywood will be attached. This point starts from high place old floor. To it you need to add the thickness of the planks themselves (lags). Next, you need to make notes around the entire perimeter of the room, indicating the height of the new floor.
  2. Then you need to make a stretch with a construction thread. All over the floor you need to fix the screws at the level of the cord. This will serve as a guide for future work.
  3. At the pointer level, you need to set lags. The interval between the centers of the planks should be no more than 60 cm. If the lag does not reach the floor, then you need to make a lining.
  4. After the evenness of the planks is determined using a level, you need to start fixing the plywood. The material is attached to self-tapping screws when the cap is deepened by 2-3 mm.
  5. After that, you need to check the evenness of the floor again.

Plywood joints should match the joists. They should not be in the air and create a gap. Otherwise, such a coating will not last long.

After leveling, you should take care of ventilation. This will increase the life of the floor. To do this, it is enough to make small holes in opposite sides of the room.

Tips: how to level a wooden floor under a laminate (video)

The process of leveling the floor when using plywood is not difficult. You need to prepare in advance and study all the nuances and features of using plywood. It is also advisable to have the necessary tools on hand.

Among different options leveling and finishing the floor is as cheap and simple as possible. One of them is laying fiberboard on the floor. It's practical and affordable option, which will save the surface from minor irregularities. Fiberboard has its own characteristics and contraindications for use - all this, as well as how to properly lay the material, will be discussed in this article.

Fiberboard as a material is known to everyone. Sheets are used for upholstery of the back wall of cabinet furniture and for various other purposes. Fiberboard is a sheet product made on the basis of waste from wood processing enterprises. These wastes are subjected to steaming, grinding, mixed with resins, water repellents and antiseptics, pressed under great pressure. The result is flat and even, but at the same time quite soft sheets.

On a note! The abbreviation "DVP" stands for simply - it is a fiberboard.

The dimensions of the fiberboard sheet are standard - 3.2x1700x2745 mm, although the thickness can vary from 2.5 to 4 mm. On the front side, the material is smooth, but on the wrong side it is rough to the touch, having a mesh pattern, which appears due to the fact that during production the material is laid and dried on a special mesh with small cells. There is always a demand for fiberboard, you can buy sheets at any hardware or hardware store.

Fiberboard is also used for finishing and leveling floors. Especially often it can be found in old apartments and houses, where the subfloor is usually made of wood, not concrete. Here it acts as a leveling material before laying finishing floor coverings - carpet, linoleum, etc. Also, fiberboard can act directly as finishing material, however, it needs a final decorative layer - for example, paint.

Description and types of fiberboard for the floor

There are several types of fiberboard. Basically, they differ from each other in terms of density.

Table. The main types of fiberboard.

TypesCharacteristics and description

These types of fiberboard have a low density - it is equal to no more than 350 kg / m3. They do not have good soundproofing properties. Typically, such sheets are used as the back walls of cabinet furniture, are used to make the bottom of furniture drawers, etc. Types of soft fiberboard: M1, M2, M3.

The density of these types of wood sheets is already higher - at least 850 kg / m3. Similarly soft species, these fiberboards are used in the manufacture of furniture, but are more durable and less flexible. Marked with the abbreviation NT.

The density of these sheets ranges from 850-1000 kg/m3. They are low porosity and can be used in the manufacture of some types of doors, as well as for the manufacture of furniture. Types: T, T-S, T-P, T-SP; T has the usual coverage, y T-S external side covered with wood fibers, T-P sheets dyed, T-SP also have a slight tint. There is also T-B sheets, which are highly resistant to moisture, while not having tinting on the front side.

Sheets with a maximum density - over 1000 kg / m3. Raw materials must be processed with pectol, a substance that increases their strength by 20%. It is these sheets that are used in construction: partitions are created from them, floors are covered with them or walls are sheathed, they are used for various finishing works. Also suitable for making furniture and door leaf. The front side can be coated with paint, primer, varnish. They are marked as CT having a standard front side, and CT-C having a finely dispersed front layer.

Fiberboard grades T, T-S, T-P, T-SP may be marked with a quality group (A or B), their front side may be of the 1st or 2nd grade. By the way, T is hardboard, which is produced by the wet method. Hardboard can be used for wall cladding, as a substrate for laminate and other floor coverings, for sound and heat insulation of floors, and interior decoration.

Advantages and disadvantages of hardboard flooring

Fiberboard is often used to level a subfloor or base and is suitable for almost all surfaces. This material has a lot of advantages, and therefore is in great demand.

Advantages laying fiberboard on the subfloor.


Disadvantages of hardboard as a floor covering.

  1. The material is afraid of water. When moisture gets in, the fiberboard begins to deform - it rises and swells. Thus, the sheet completely loses its appearance, the paint on it and other finishes are also deformed. Do not use fiberboard in the kitchen or bathroom.
  2. fragility. If there are cavities under the fiberboard sheets, then with a strong mechanical action the material breaks down easily. It also breaks easily when the sheet is strongly bent.
  3. High fire hazard. In the event of a fire, fiberboard will be quickly engulfed in flames and burned.
  4. Front wears out quickly. If the fiberboard is not covered with a finishing material, then it quickly shuffles off and loses its appearance.
  5. If fiberboard sheets are laid in an unheated and damp room, then they deform, begin to exfoliate.

How to choose the right fiberboard for the floor

In order for the final work to please the owner for a long time and serve without complaints, it is important to approach the choice of material with all responsibility and buy quality option. There are several criteria that will allow you to choose the fiberboard that is ideal for each specific case.


What is fiberboard and what types of boards exist, the pros and cons of the material, features of use and selection rules, technology for mounting wood sheets on the floor using wooden lag, glue and mastics.

Description and types of fiberboard for the floor


Fibreboard (MDF) is a sheet building material. The front side of the product is smooth, the wrong side has a mesh structure.

The raw materials for the production of fiberboard are sawmill and woodworking waste, firewood, and technological chips. After steaming and grinding it, fibers are formed, which are scraps of woody tissue, individual cells, groups of cells. Fiberboard is obtained from such wood fiber, which is formed in the form of a carpet.

Fiberboard can be of different density. According to this criterion, the plates are divided into the following groups:

  • Soft fiberboard. Their density is not higher than 350 kg per cubic meter. Such plates have high porosity, low density and are suitable for insulation work, floor and wall insulation. They have low sound and heat conductivity. They are divided into three types: M-1, M-2 and M-3.
  • Semi-hard fiberboard. They have a density of at least 850 kg per cubic meter. They are used in the manufacture of the back walls of furniture, drawers.
  • Solid fiberboard. Their density is 800-1000 kg per cubic meter. They have low porosity and are used in the production of panel doors and furniture. There are such types: T, T-S, T-P, T-SP.
  • Super hard fiberboard. They have a density of at least 950 kg per cubic meter. Their level of porosity is very low. They are used in construction and for finishing works, creating partitions, flooring, in the manufacture of furniture, doors, temporary buildings. They have a smooth front side covered with paint, varnish or primer. Besides, source materials in the production of such boards, they are processed with pectol, which increases the strength of fiberboard by 20%.
Fiberboard sheets have standard factory dimensions. The length is from 1220 to 3000 millimeters. Width - 1220-1700 millimeters. It is quite inconvenient to transport such sheets manually, so you will definitely need a cargo taxi service or a car with a trailer.

As for the thickness, this figure can vary from 2.5 to 40 millimeters, depending on the type of plate and its density. Fiberboard most often comes in thicknesses of 8, 12, 16 and 25 millimeters. These are plates of medium and low density, which, as a rule, are not used for finishing work. Semi-solid slabs come in thicknesses of 6, 8 and 12 millimeters. Solid, as well as superhard fiberboards are produced with a thickness of 2.5, 3.2, 4.5, 6 millimeters. Such materials can be used for walls and floors.

Advantages and disadvantages of hardboard flooring


Often, fiberboard is used as a laying material for a subfloor. They are suitable for installation on almost all surfaces. If you follow certain rules, then it will be possible to easily attach the sheets even to the old coating.

Laying fiberboard on the floor has many advantages:

  1. The low price of this building material. This type of rough flooring is budgetary, and the cost of installation work- minimal.
  2. No time-consuming work - the process of laying the plates is very simple. Some problems may arise when installing a log, but to avoid them, you need to carefully calculate the layout of the boards on the floor.
  3. Absolute environmental friendliness of plates. At the heart of the sheets natural wood. Therefore, they can be used when creating flooring in bedrooms, nurseries and game rooms.
  4. The strength and durability of fiberboard, provided that boards of density corresponding to the loads are used. However, such a coating should not be subjected to heavy loads and not allowed to be directly exposed to water.
To the disadvantages of this building material can include the following:
  • Low level of fire resistance. At the slightest interaction with fire, the coating will quickly catch fire.
  • Relatively low wear resistance. To strengthen the boards, a top coat is applied so that they do not wear out and rub off so quickly. Besides finishing adds to the aesthetics of the flooring.
  • Low level of moisture resistance. Fiberboard sheets tolerate moisture better than, for example, chipboard, but, nevertheless, it is not recommended to install them in the bathroom or in the kitchen, because the coating is quickly deformed. For finishing in such rooms, it is better to use aquapanels, gypsum fiber or moisture-resistant plywood.

Features of the use of wood-based panels


Fiberboard is not recommended to be laid in rooms where water and aggressive chemicals can get on the boards. But today, thanks to the development of technology, they are improving and performance these plates, which helps to significantly expand the scope of the material.

Modern fiberboards on the floor have excellent performance, but it is worth noting some minor limitations when installing indoors:

  1. It can be laid in dry rooms with a low level of humidity (no more than 60%) and temperatures above +10 degrees.
  2. The boards must not be placed on the floor in rooms where they will be subjected to a large force load, such as in shops or warehouses. Under mechanical stress, such a floor covering will quickly collapse.
  3. Wood boards are practically not used as a finishing floor, but they are perfect for a rough floor. Hardboard flooring is an ideal basis for laying parquet, laminate. Also, with the help of these plates, you can level or insulate the floor.

Remember the safety of the use of plates: if you purchased them more than twenty years ago, and before that they were stored in an unintended place, the material can be dangerous. Previously, the technology for manufacturing fiberboard sheets was different. To make the fibers in the boards stick together better, unsafe products were used. Such plates cannot be installed in a residential building!

How to choose the right fiberboard for the floor


To buy quality material, you need to know several basic criteria for choosing plates:
  • Be sure to examine the fiberboard certificate for the presence of harmful components. Some manufacturers, in order to improve the indicators of density and moisture resistance, add dangerous components, such as formaldehyde, to the composition of the boards (or rather, to their fibers). The presence of this substance indicates that the material is not intended for laying in residential areas. This is extremely dangerous! It is almost impossible to determine by eye whether this component is present in the panels. Therefore, ask the consultant for documents on building materials. They should clearly indicate that fiberboards have passed sanitary and epidemiological control. When buying, opt for trusted manufacturers.
  • Carefully inspect each wood panel, it should not have visible manufacturing or shipping damage and defects. Manufacturing defects include oil or paraffin stains, blisters and blisters on the board finish. The only drawback that is allowed on fiberboard sheets is a small spot no larger than two centimeters in size. Remember that in combination with oil or paraffin stains, the panels become highly flammable.
  • Pay Special attention on the technical specifications material and labeling sheets. So that it can be long time exploit, thickness and density are important wood boards. The level of moisture resistance is also important. All fiberboards should be selected according to technical indicators, based on the room in which you will be laying them.

Technology for mounting fiberboard on logs

If you lay wood-based panels on logs, then the floor will turn out to be warmer than when working with screeds. Also, when working with this type of flooring, traces of fiberboard attachment to the joists will be practically invisible.

Preparatory work before laying fiberboard


Before laying fiberboard on the floor, it is necessary to carry out some preparatory work according to the following scheme:
  1. As soon as you brought the panels into the room, moisten them with a little water, stack them on top of each other. Installation can begin the next day. Thus, you will save the material from possible deformation.
  2. Next, if necessary, we dismantle the old coating and skirting boards. All paint must be removed from the floor, all debris removed.
  3. The resulting gaps between the coating and the wall are filled with polyurethane foam. After it hardens, cut off the protruding residues.
  4. Also, cracks can be sealed with putty for movable bases.
  5. We study the old floor covering for the presence of fungus or mold, if necessary, we replace these places, since they should in no case remain under the new panels. After replacing the damaged areas, we treat the surface with a fungicidal primer or a special antiseptic solution for wooden materials.

Installing lags on the floor


With the help of lags, you can correct the slight curvature of the floor, even out its differences, slopes or irregularities. It is previously recommended to treat them with special compounds that will protect them from pests, fungi and decay.

You need to mount them in the following way:

  • We install dry and even bars with a thickness of about 30-50 millimeters on the main coating in increments of about 50 centimeters.
  • All lags must be located strictly horizontally. You can check their evenness using a building level or a long ruler.
  • When assembling the lags, we use special zinc lock nuts, which will prevent the fasteners from moving freely along the thread. Thanks to these devices, the nuts will not unwind and loosen the entire structure. The locknut itself should go a little deeper into the wood structure.
  • We fix the bars on the old coating, and where wooden planks are absent, we lay pieces of timber or pieces of wood under the logs.

Rules for attaching fiberboard to logs


Installation of plates on logs is recommended to start from the corner that is opposite to the entrance to the room. Before laying fiberboard on the floor, study the scheme of work:
  1. We fasten the fiberboard to the logs with screws, self-tapping screws or nails. The step is about a centimeter along the edge and one and a half centimeters in the center.
  2. Do not forget to leave between the wall and the coating 5-10 millimeters for thermal expansion. In the future, it can be closed with a plinth.
  3. The seams of the plates must necessarily converge on the bars.
  4. The next row of material should fit snugly, leaving a small gap of a maximum of two to three millimeters.
  5. All subsequent panels in rows are laid in the same way.
When installing fiberboard, they will need to be trimmed. This is easy to do using a hacksaw, jigsaw, hand saw. To get holes in the sheet for the pipe, you can use a regular sharp knife. If you need a more complex cutting, it is recommended to pre-make a cardboard template and cut the plate along it.

Technology of laying fiberboard on glue


You can install wood-based panels on a pre-leveled surface of the base with glue. Preparatory stage in this case, it is identical to the one that preceded the fastening of the fiberboard to the logs.

We work according to the instructions:

  • We apply glue on the entire surface of the material, it should be well and evenly distributed, without spreading.
  • We give the sheets 30-40 minutes to dry.
  • We also apply the adhesive composition on a pre-primed and well-dried surface of the base.
  • The sheet is pressed in a horizontal position.
  • The next product is tightly pressed to the previous one.
  • Be sure to check each fixed sheet for evenness and horizontality using a level.

Note! When laying the next row of fiberboard, you need to offset the joints of the plates by 40-50 centimeters in relation to the previous row. So you will give the floor more strength, and the load will be evenly distributed.

Technology for fixing fiberboard with mastic


Installation of plates on concrete screed much easier than lags. But most importantly, such laying must be carried out on a perfectly flat surface. If the base is slightly uneven, then they must be leveled with cement mortar. For laying on a concrete floor, strong and thick fiberboards are used. Also in the work you will need mastic.

Installation is carried out according to the following scheme:

  1. Carefully prime the surface of the screed.
  2. Half an hour before the start of the installation process, apply cold mastic to the underside of the wood boards and leave them aside.
  3. We immediately process the entire surface of the screed with mastic. The thickness of the composition should not be more than 0.6 mm.
  4. We apply hot mastic immediately before fixing so that it does not have time to cool. The layer of the product is no more than one millimeter, we level it over the surface of the sheet and the screed with a rubber comb.
  5. The final stage of installation - it is necessary to firmly press the fiberboard to the base.

Features of finishing the flooring from fiberboard


The final treatment of the fiberboard floor helps to increase the life of the boards. The main thing is to carefully prepare the surface so that it is perfectly smooth and even, since it will be impossible to correct defects after painting.

We work according to the following instructions:

  • We clean the floor from the remnants of glue or primer.
  • We close all gaps between the panels with putty or reinforcing tape.
  • Carefully rub all the seams with fine sandpaper.
  • If there are stains, then they are treated with a degreaser.
  • We remove all dust from the surface with a vacuum cleaner.
  • We cover the plates with paint or varnish in two layers. Apply with a spray gun, roller or brush.
How to lay fiberboard on the floor - look at the video:


By means of wood-based panels, you can assemble high-quality flooring with a minimum of effort. Before leveling a fiberboard floor, it is necessary to carefully study specifications plates and choose suitable material for the premises being repaired, and then it remains to comply with the technology for performing installation work.

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