Protect osb from moisture. Finishing OSB - everything you need to know about this material and the specifics of working with it. How to work with OSB

In order to qualitatively paint the OSB with your own hands, you need to responsibly approach the choice of the mixture.

Dye

Several types of material can be used.

Organic

One of the simplest and most popular solutions, the composition provides a fairly high adhesion to the surface of the OSB panels. Traditional options:

Oil. Coloring with such mixtures is widespread, although in last years decreases. This is due to the fact that the products are quite toxic and have a strong odor. The resulting coating has a service life of 3-5 years, after which it fades and loses its decorative qualities.

Alkyd. A universal variety that allows you to paint inside and outside the premises. The treated surface has a bright and saturated color that lasts for a long time. Compared to the previous version, enamel is more resistant to any atmospheric influences, but does not differ in environmental friendliness and a wide decorative range.

Water emulsion

The most modern products with high aesthetic and operational qualities. For OSB processing, compositions with a polymer component are used. This list includes:

Acrylic. The mixtures are absolutely safe, UV-resistant and easy to apply. When working with particle boards, water-based formulations require high-quality priming and applying the mortar in thin layers. It is necessary to exclude abundant absorption of moisture, otherwise the panel may swell.

Latex. It is quite simple to paint the surface with such a mixture, the material has almost the same advantages as the previous one, but it has a higher cost. This includes a rubber variety, ideal for outdoor work.

primer paint

On a note! When choosing a composition for different processes, it is better to give preference to certain categories, even though many mixtures are universal. This is especially true for facade works Therefore, in such a situation, it is advisable to purchase special solutions.

Primer

Due to the fact that most often for sheathing the internal structures of the room and the facade are used OSB boards-3, having low adhesion due to additional treatment against moisture penetration, priming is a mandatory procedure. In addition, this significantly reduces paint consumption and reduces the likelihood of deformation when choosing compositions based on water.

The following varieties are suitable for this work:

Drying oil. This is an easy solution if you plan to use oil paints.

Betonokontakt. Although any modern polymer-based compositions in the deep penetrating category can be used, this mixture is optimal. It fits well on the surface and impregnates it, forming a rough layer that provides the best grip.

Concrete contact primer is used to ensure maximum adhesion of the paint to the OSB surface

After laying and drying any type of soil, it is necessary to short term treat the base with decorative or protective materials. During this period, adhesion is maximum.

Impregnation

The following varieties are used:

Like drying oil, it allows you to protect the material from the harmful effects of water, preventing decay. Although the outside of the building is sheathed with moisture-resistant products of classes 3 and 4, OSB-2 boards are most often found inside, they are processed separately. Also, the stain is applied as a decorative layer when varnishing the panels.

If you want to preserve the texture and give the plate a noble red tint, stain is used.

Flame retardants. They are recommended to process all sides and ends of parts before installation. Flame retardant impregnation reduces the likelihood of fire, and also increases the time during which the material will be resistant to flame.
Antiseptics. Such protection is required to prevent the appearance of mold and fungus, the cause of which is most often dampness.

Important! Particular attention must be paid to the ends of parts located on the street. They are impregnated more thoroughly, since it is in these places that the destruction caused by the harmful effects of the environment begins.

varnish

This composition is more suitable for indoor work. For the floor or ceiling, a colorless varnish is more often used, which ensures the preservation of the natural look of the material. To enhance the entourage, well-defined wood chips can be treated with a stain that is suitable in color, which is not just applied, but literally shaded.

To transfer texture natural wood choose colored varnishes. But the structure of the panel is extremely heterogeneous, so it will not be so easy to get a single coating, regardless of the selected paint mixture. The desired result can be achieved by painting the base 3 to 6 times.

Colored varnishes can imitate a variety of wood species

Features of painting OSB boards outside

Outdoor work involves the creation of a decorative layer that will also play a protective role. For the process, you will need a simple list of tools, suitable for covering walls inside the house:

Airbrush. For each composition, the desired option is selected.
Paint roller. It is better to provide for the presence of several interchangeable nozzles.
Tassels. For work in hard-to-reach places.

Everything you need is purchased in advance.

Surface preparation

Before installing the sheets, high-quality impregnation of the ends of the parts is carried out. Further actions:

After completion of all processes, the facade is left to dry completely.

Paint application

You can cover the prepared surface with the selected solution according to the following scheme:

If necessary, the composition is diluted to the desired consistency. For spraying, it must be more liquid, but because of this, the number of layers increases and the consumption increases significantly.
The solution begins to be laid from top to bottom in a single layer.
Appearing pronounced dark areas are left, they are eliminated only evenly and consistently.
Next, layer by layer is laid until the desired result is achieved. After each treatment, the base dries out.

If you perform all the steps without haste, you will get a coating with a slightly protruding texture of wood chips.

Interior panel painting

The process can be done in two ways, depending on preference. But preliminary preparations are carried out, almost similar to activities for external sites. The only difference is that moldings to hide the seams inside the house are not used, unless it is provided for by the interior design.

Classic method

This method involves a simple application of paint for OSB on the surface of the wall. After preparing the base, it is kneaded decorative mixture and evenly and consistently applied in several layers to all treated areas. If putty was previously used, then the painted surface will turn out to be homogeneous, and in its absence, a strong or weak texture will be observed, depending on the amount of material applied.

Coloring OSB without prior puttying allows you to save the texture of the material

It is much easier to process the floor: after grinding it is prepared and covered with 4-5 layers of clear varnish.

decorative way

To decorate the base of oriented strand boards beautifully, you can use various techniques. For example, the aging of the coating. Instruction:

The boards are carefully sanded and primed until smooth.
Acrylic patina is being prepared. It is quickly applied to the desired areas or the entire surface. The longer the mixture is kept on the base, the richer the color will be.
The solution is washed with a rag.
Next, you need to paint the material with a light shade to highlight the darker areas.

An alternative method would be to simply lay down several colors, but each subsequent layer should be "softer" than the previous one.

Caring for Painted OSB

With the right choice decorative composition and compliance with the technology of preparation and application, further procedures will be as follows:

After 5-7 years (depending on composition), a light treatment with a thin layer of diluted mortar can be applied to revitalize the surface.
Significant difficulties arise due to the shrinkage of the house, a more serious reconstruction may be required. But if the frame was set exactly, in compliance with the gaps, then you only need to rearrange the moldings on the outside and small finishing work on the inside, followed by painting in the desired color.
shabby flooring re-sanded and varnished.

Painting OSB is not the most difficult process, requiring accuracy and the exact sequence of all actions to obtain a high-quality result.

Oriented strand boards, although they have an interesting pressed wood chip pattern, should not be left uncoated. This is especially true of OSB on the facade of the building, where the panels are exposed to all winds, rains and suffer from other surprises of changeable weather.

OSB needs to be protected from:

1. Moisture. Although waterproofing is used for facade work OSB boards Class 3 or 4, if they are not covered with a protective material from the outside, after a while they will be saturated with moisture from the soil and the atmosphere and begin to swell.

2. Temperature fluctuations and sunlight over time can also damage OSB boards. In addition to darkening the wood filler, the case may result in the destruction of the resinous binder and flaking of the surface. True, such serious damage is more inherent in low-quality panels. Most importantly, oriented strand sheets are classified as highly combustible materials (group G4) and need to be protected from fire from the outside and inside.

OSB sheathing

Here the choice is the richest: clinker tiles, hinged bricks, wall paneling, siding - the list could go on and on. But why do developers use OSB on the facade? To make construction cheaper. It is with this attitude that you need to approach the selection of finishes.

1. Vinyl or acrylic siding is an economical material that is suitable for any facade. You can pick up panels that look like a block house or brickwork.

The plus is that if the facade of the house is sheathed with OSB, it is not necessary to mount the crate on a flat plane. But what you can’t do without is a windproof waterproof membrane, otherwise the siding “sweating” from the inside will cause the surface of the plates to swell.

Polymer facing products are produced with a thickness of 0.8 to 1.2 mm, but the larger this indicator, the longer they will last. Both types have good strength characteristics, are resistant to chemicals and do not support the spread of fire. Siding easily tolerates heating up to + 85-88 ° C and, subject to the production technology, does not fade in the sun. Acrylic panels behave slightly better than PVC, but they have no serious differences. Price - from 240 to 1210 rubles / m 2.

2. Decorative rock- such a cladding will allow you to turn the OSB building into a solid brick or stone house at least in appearance.

The process of finishing the OSB facade is quite complicated and costly, but the durability and ease of repair will pay off these costs in the future. To prepare the plates, you will need frost-resistant silicone-based sealants and antiseptic primers. On top of the panels, you will have to fix polystyrene foam, putty it, and cover it with reinforcing fiberglass on top and glue decorative items.

Artificial stone is made from Portland cement, which provides it with a high strength grade (from 150 and above). In addition, such lining withstands more than 100 freezing cycles, has a water absorption rate of 4-9%, which can be improved with a hydrophobic coating. Price - from 750 to 1450 rubles / m 2.

Plate finishing

1. Plaster.

With the right choice plaster composition it will prolong the life of the particle board for many years and help make its surface more fire resistant on the outside. Consumption facade plaster on a flat plane, OSB will be minimal, but the associated costs will completely “eat up” the money saved.

The panels will need to be isolated from the moisture contained in the mixture (ideally covered with polystyrene foam) and reinforced with a special mesh. finishing it would be best to perform textured decorative plaster on acrylic base. It is elastic so as not to crack at the joints of the plates. Silicone is more expensive, but it has greater frost resistance, which is quite important in our latitudes, and the highest strength indicators. The cost of acrylic plaster based on 1 m 2 - 137-320 rubles, silicone - 425-1010.

2. Varnishes and paints for OSB facades.

Paint and varnish materials - the cheapest type facade decoration for OSB. Suitable water-based or oil paints on wood marked "for outdoor use". It is undesirable to use water-soluble coatings for OSB, as they will lead to uneven swelling of the surface layer.

But the OSB staining technology will need to be observed clearly:

Fill the interpanel seams with acrylic sealant.
Thoroughly clean and prime the surface of the plates.
When applying primer and paint Special attention give to the ends, as they are the most vulnerable point of the sheet material.
OSB edges must be painted until all sharp corners are visible.

Oil paint is ideal option for particle boards on the facade, but here you have to take into account that it needs to be updated every 2-3 years - it will lose its original saturated color so quickly. Consumption when covering the base with a primer does not exceed 200 g/m 2 . At a cost of 80 to 540 rubles / kg, finishing the facade in any case will be inexpensive.

Acrylic paint has a high resistance to abrasion - up to 5000 cycles for Ceresit - while it is elastic and does not crack. Consumption is 3-4 m 2 / l, but most of these products can be diluted with water (up to 10% of the total volume). The price varies from 57 to 285 rubles / l.

Acrylic varnishes, with their water resistance, have such a valuable property as the ability to "breathe". Before varnishing the OSB board, it should be sanded, if this was not done in production, and degreased. The surface of the panel is primed, then varnish is applied. Transparent will emphasize the chip pattern and give the facade a noble shine, but you can also use tinted varnish in the case when the pattern is not so important.

If the OSB plane seems slippery, it means that waxes or paraffin were used to make it. Before finishing, it is covered with primer paint with the addition of fine quartz dust (sand) - it will provide better adhesion to the next finishing layer. The varnish dries quite quickly - in just a day, forming a sun-protective and frost-resistant film resistant to abrasion. Consumption at single layer application is 8-10 m 2 / l, the price is 149-550 rubles / l.

OSB board - durable and reliable material for facade cladding, but even for its highest quality brands, resistance to atmospheric phenomena is not high enough. Correctly executed protective coating will help to get rid of this shortcoming. The choice of products is large enough to easily find optimal combination beauty and ultimate value.

Good afternoon!
We are building a frame house, it is sheathed with OSB boards, there is a roof - corrugated board, in winter it will go in this form. During the summer, after several rains, the OSB stratified in some places. Is it possible to cover the walls with a windproof film under the future ventilation facade for the winter and will it not lose its properties by spring? And what material is better to take: Isospan A, AD? The facade will be a blockhouse.

It is possible to cover an unprotected facade with a windproof film, but this will not completely solve the problem of preserving OSB. The fact is that the windproof membrane is designed for the impact of individual drops, which are the result of condensation on the roofing. A good slanting rain, downpour, sleet is beyond her power, the windproof membrane will “cry” with inside. Undoubtedly, the windscreen will reduce the wetting of the OSB, but it will not completely eliminate it.

Windproof membrane is a good thing when covered with exterior trim

OSB-3 boards, which, most likely, sheathed the frame of your house, can only be called moisture resistant with a stretch. And then we can talk about their resistance to moisture only in relation to chipboard, fiberboard, OSB-1 and OSB-2, which quickly collapse under the influence of water. OSB-3 is not intended to be used as an enclosing wall material without further finishing, unlike, for example, cement particle boards(CSP). By the way, in Canada and the USA, from where they came to us frame technologies, for decorating decent houses that should stand for a long time, they use waterproof plywood, chipboard is the lot of the poorest.

Manufacturers give such a characteristic as the degree of swelling of the oriented strand board when it is in water for a day. For OSB-3 it is 15%. This is not so little, contrary to the claims of sellers and manufacturers. Of course, on the walls, particle boards are in vertical position and are only exposed to slanting rain on one side. However, let's assume that it rains for a week or two, sleet, wet. The low air temperature and the lack of sun do not allow the walls to dry out.

OSB sheets that are not protected from precipitation will get wet and swell properly. At the same time, they will increase not only in thickness, but also in length and width, albeit not so significantly. As a result, the chipboard panels, rigidly fixed to the frame, will warp. And it’s not a fact that when they dry, they will take their original shape, residual deformations are very likely. In addition, the attachment points will weaken, delamination of the ends may occur (it has already begun for you), and the bonding strength will decrease. It is unlikely that particle boards will not be critically damaged in one season, but their service life will be reduced, the overall stability of the frame will decrease, this is a fact.

OSB is not a completely waterproof material; with prolonged exposure to moisture, it inevitably collapses.

In our opinion, the following options are possible for temporary protection of the unfinished facade from precipitation:

Stretch the Isospan A windproof membrane (18 rubles / m2) along the vertical crate, use a bar 4-5 cm thick. The film is rather weak, it is not a fact that it will successfully survive the winter, it will not be torn by winds.
Use Isospan AM (24 rub/m2) or Isospan AS (35 rub/m2). A three-layer windshield is stronger, less water vapor permeable, but three times more waterproof, which means it will get wet less. Under the finish (blockhouse), it could be stretched without a crate, right along the slabs. But in your case, a ventilated gap and a crate are needed. It is necessary to ensure free air flow, the gap should be at the bottom and at the top, under the roof. Option #2 is preferable.
Stretch any vapor-waterproofing material cheaper along the crate in compliance with ventilation: roofing felt, building reinforced vapor barrier, dense plastic film for greenhouses (enough for one season). When cladding the facade, the waterproofing will have to be removed.

While there is no finish, polyethylene film can be used as a temporary protection, with or without reinforcement.

The right decision would still be to tighten up with finances and finish the exterior decoration by autumn, sheathing the facade with a blockhouse along a vertical crate. It will end up being cheaper, because the OSB boards themselves can serve as wind protection if they are neatly fitted. You don't have to spend money on tape.

The correct solution to the "puff pastry" frame wall. If the OSB boards fit well and the insulation is completely closed, they will also serve as wind insulation. There is no need to spend money on an additional membrane.

In this article, we will analyze in detail how insulation is performed. frame house with your own hands. Consider which insulation is better to use for a frame house, what thickness of insulation is needed in a frame house, and in general how to properly insulate a frame house. In addition, we will tell you how the wall cladding of a frame house is performed, both internal and external.

Insulation of the walls of a frame house Insulation for the walls of a frame house

Insulation of the walls of a frame house is carried out, as a rule, between the racks of the frame. In this part, we will consider what options for effective heaters exist for the walls of a frame house and how insulation is carried out. Consider these heaters:

Mineral wool, density 30-50 kg/m3;
Fiberglass wool, density 17-20 kg/m3;
Polyfoam, density 25 kg/m3;
XPS, density 20-35 kg/m3.

Note: We do not consider sawdust, expanded clay, slag, flax tow, straw, etc. as a heater. The use of these materials requires, as a rule, a wall of greater thickness (in comparison with effective heaters listed above). Therefore, each case of using such materials should be considered and calculated separately, and they will not be considered within the framework of this article.

Of the listed heaters, we recommend using mineral wool of the specified density, since, with other, almost equal characteristics, mineral wool is not combustible, dampens sound well and is easy to use (compared to polystyrene foam and XPS). And in comparison with fiberglass wool, mineral wool behaves better in vertical structures (does not settle and does not wrinkle if it is of the right density).

Note: The fact that we recommend mineral wool for use does not mean that we do not recommend other heaters. Our recommendation is rather a response to frequently asked question readers "which insulation is better to use for the wall of a frame house."

Important points:

Cotton wool (at least mineral, even from fiberglass) must be slab, not rolled.
The thickness of the insulation in each particular house is determined by calculation. We do such a calculation, ask a question and we will calculate. According to experience, this thickness is in the range of 100-250 mm, depending on the climatic zone.
It is better to lay the insulation in layers of 50 mm, with overlapping seams. This will eliminate cold bridges. Layers of 50 mm, because wool (both mineral and fiberglass) has positions of 50 and 100 mm, intermediate positions are most often not on sale.

Frame house wall insulation technology

Insulation of the walls of a frame house is carried out between the racks of the frame. Mineral wool and fiberglass wool are placed between the uprights. Styrofoam and XPS are cut to size between the posts and foamed.

Where the jib is located, the insulation is cut and inserted into the space between the jib and the rack. If the jibs are of a smaller section than the stand, then one layer of insulation (50 mm) can be placed on top of the jibs from the outside.

House frame insulation scheme

Exterior wall cladding of a frame house

In this part, we will analyze how the outer rough wall cladding is performed.

Note: Judging by the questions on the site, readers are often interested in whether it is possible not to make a rough sheathing, and to attach the finishing material (for example, siding) directly to the frame racks. Let's take this moment. The presence of sheathing, together with the upper and lower slopes of the frame, forms the spatial rigidity of the frame (for more details, see the section Frame house with your own hands. wind protection and waterproofing). And we recommend, as an obligatory element, both sheathing and cuttings at the top and bottom. Without cuts, even with sheathing, the frame can have mobility. And vice versa, with cuts, but without sheathing, there is also mobility.

Options for rough sheathing materials (the most common):

Board.

Note: For all these materials, you will need to perform fine finish. It can be cladding with siding, this option is described in the article Do-it-yourself siding installation. You can plaster the walls. Under the plaster layers, it is better to arrange a layer of foam (density 25 kg / m3), 30 mm, or XPS (density 20-35 kg / m3), 30 mm. It is possible to apply plaster layers along the grid, without insulation (described in the Frame House branch, Zaporozhye), but at the same time there is a greater risk of cracks in the plaster. The technology of insulation along the insulation layer is described in the article Do-it-yourself insulation of the walls of the house with polystyrene foam.

Note: Sometimes there are recommendations to leave the sheathing with a board as a fine finish. In order to do this, the board will need to be processed. In addition, in this case, in a certain way, it is necessary to arrange wind and water protection of the wall under the board.

Important! We do not recommend sewing up the frame with a board, without a rough OSB sewing before that. That is, if a board is used as a fine finish, then it is mounted on top of the OSB. Let me explain what our opinion is based on. If you nail the board directly to the frame posts, without OSB, then, as a rule, the board will be unscrewed and will be unscrewed at least 2 times a year (spring and autumn). And we need to give the frame spatial rigidity, and not vice versa - subject it to additional loads from the unpredictable behavior of the skin. Therefore, we recommend boarding according to OSB only.

In this part, we describe in detail the OSB sheathing (since this is the most versatile and frequently used option). In addition, OSB boards are more moisture resistant in comparison with the listed options. The sheet area of OSB is larger, which allows you to make fewer joints.

For sheathing, we use OSB with a thickness of 10-12 mm.

Fastening OSB to racks, or rather bottom harness, fastening step

OSB is attached to the racks as shown in the figure (joint in the middle of the rack).

OSB fastening to the frame rack

The OSB sheet must completely cover the bottom strapping. There are two options for the upper trim, depending on whether the house has one floor or two:

If there is one floor, then the upper trim overlaps completely, and the edge of the OSB is flush with the edge of the trim.
If there are two floors, then it is better to arrange the sheet so that it goes both on the racks of the second floor and on the racks of the first, and the upper trim overlaps approximately in the middle of the sheet. This is not necessary, but it gives additional rigidity to the structure.

OSB fastening to harness

Fastening OSB to the strapping (if 2 floors)

Where the OSB is attached to the window opening, it is better to “cover” the window opening with a whole sheet of OSB so that the joints fall outside the opening posts onto adjacent posts. .

Fastening OSB to a window opening

The window opening in this case is cut out in the OSB slab.

It is possible, for the convenience of joining the plates, to make additional vertical or horizontal jumpers in the frame. As a rule, they are made of the same section as the racks.

OSB is attached to the vertical racks of the frame either with spiral nails or self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4.5 mm, a length of 50 mm. It is better to fasten with screws, you can combine screws and nails.

OSB boards are attached:

In intermediate sections - in increments of 30 cm.
At the joints of the plates - with a step of 15 cm.
Along the outer edges - in increments of 10 cm.
In order for the OSB plate not to crack from fasteners, a distance of 8-10 mm must be left from the edge of the plate to the fastener.
A gap of 3-5 mm must be left between the plates, otherwise the joint of the plates may warp.
A self-tapping screw or a nail during fastening should enter the rack by 40-50 mm.

Step of self-tapping screws when fastening OSB boards

OSB joint with and without gap

Depth of screwing into the rack

Wind protection and waterproofing of the walls of a frame house

The function of wind protection and waterproofing (external) of the walls of the frame house is performed by a superdiffusion membrane with a vapor permeability of 800 g/m2 per day and above.

Note: There are recommendations that the use of a membrane is optional, you can use it instead waterproofing films or polyethylene. We are categorically against the use of films, polyethylene or glassine as wind and waterproofing in this design. Films have very low vapor permeability (up to 40 g/m2 per day) in comparison with membranes. This means that the film simply cannot cope with the removal of moisture from the insulation. And this is necessary, since there is a dew point in the insulation (see the article Dew point. Determination of the dew point in the wall at various types insulation), and this is its normal location in this design. And moisture must be able to vent. A membrane with the specified vapor permeability copes with this.

The location of the superdiffusion membrane in the wall structure depends on the type of rough lining and finishing:

The membrane is nailed to the racks of the frame, close to the insulation, Figure 9. Then the crate ( wooden slats 20x50 mm, 30x50 mm) due to it a gap is organized. Then sewing (OSB, DSP, LSU, board).

Frame wall construction

This scheme applies:

when plastering on the lining (on insulation and without);
in the case when the lining with a board becomes a fine finish;
when facing with siding over OSB, LSU, DSP, boards.

2. Rough lining (OSB, LSU, DSP, board) is nailed to the frame posts. A membrane is nailed on top of it, close, without a gap. From above, along the crate (due to the gap), siding is attached. This scheme is applicable when the rough sewing is attached facing material(like siding).

Frame wall construction

The membrane is attached with a construction stapler. Membrane joints are made with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Vapor barrier of the walls of a frame house

The vapor barrier of the walls of the frame house is carried out with a vapor barrier film. The film is attached from the inside of the room to the racks of the frame, close to the insulation, with a construction stapler. Joints are made with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Bonding the joint of the vapor barrier

Important points:

When used as a foam or EPPS insulation, a vapor barrier is also needed. Although these heaters do not pick up moisture, in addition to them, there are wooden elements frame, which must be protected from fumes coming from inside the room.
All joints and junctions of the vapor barrier must be glued with adhesive tape, as shown in the figure. In this case, it is important to use not ordinary construction tape, but a special double-sided adhesive tape for vapor barrier.
Vapor barrier can be made with foil foamed polyethylene. It is important to take into account the fact that the use of this material does not affect the thickness of the main thermal insulation of the wall.

Internal lining of the walls of a frame house

For internal lining of the walls of the house, you can use drywall or OSB. In our opinion, better OSB. I'll explain why. If drywall is attached to the frame racks from the inside, then the racks, as a rule, are not perfectly even, and drywall (it is softer than OSB) accepts these irregularities. Then the drywall will need more leveling layers. And OSB boards are tougher, and smooth out irregularities, level less.

Note: Often, internal stitching is performed MDF panels. In the event that these are not laminated panels, they must be used with caution, as they are afraid of moisture. It is not recommended to use them in the kitchen, bathroom, bathroom.

On OSB or drywall, you can perform a fine finish. Lining-type materials must also be mounted on OSB sheathing, directly to racks without sheathing - not recommended.

Wood boards are a fairly high-quality and inexpensive material for finishing works. Their original texture is made up of wood chips. The sheet is formed using certain types of polymer resins and glue. For better preservation and protection from moisture, OSB panels are treated with special paints - only in this way the finishing material will be preserved for many years.

Before painting the OSB board inside the house, you need to consider that this material is available in four types. Each of them has its own properties that determine the scope of its application:

OSB1 - low density panels without water repellent treatment, mainly suitable for interior decoration walls, except for rooms with high humidity.
OSB2 - have a slightly greater strength than the first type, but this plate also needs to be protected from moisture by painting.
OSB3 - the most common panels with high strength and moisture resistance. However, with prolonged contact with moisture, the sheet begins to deform, so the panel outside the building will have to be treated with at least a special impregnation.
OSB4 is a heavy duty material that can withstand environments with high humidity. But there is a downside - the high price.

We do it ourselves: how to prepare and paint OSB indoors and outdoors?

The main difficulty in painting Oriented Strand Board sheets, especially in categories 3 and 4, is their high moisture resistance. Difficult to find suitable composition, which would show decent adhesion, so the slab should be pre-sanded sandpaper for the roughness of the plane. Do not forget to putty the joints of the sheets using putty for wood. Some prefer to make homemade mixtures using , gelatin and casein.

Step number 1: preparatory work technology

In order to increase adhesion, moisture resistant sheets on the floor or on the walls should be treated acrylic primer. Before painting OSB indoors with paints not on water based, plates are primed with drying oil or polyurethane varnish. Primers based on synthetic resins have proven themselves well.

To obtain a perfectly flat plane, craftsmen often putty the entire surface to be treated. To prepare a moisture-resistant slab from the outside, you need compounds that are used to prime the surface before applying textured and mosaic plasters.

The technique for preparing panels from the outside of the building is practically the same as for interior work. Additionally, it is recommended to treat them with antiseptic compounds and fire retardants. It does not hurt to take into account the fact that the surface quality of each manufacturer is significantly different.

Step number 2: how to paint a wood-based OSB board inside and outside the house

In practice, the choice of paint depends on the type of particle boards. In this regard, OSB1 and OSB2 are universal - they can be processed both with water-dispersion compositions and paints based on PVA or acrylic. It is important to take into account that these sheets, although they have good hiding power, but due to the large porosity, the overspending can reach up to 50% compared to plywood or wood.

Among professional builders, there are certain rules when processing particle boards with paints and varnishes:

The paint must be made on a polymer basis, an emulsion in an aqueous solution is not suitable for finishing work.
Compositions based on acrylates will help to make the surface convenient for subsequent cleaning and washing.
To provide additional protection against moisture, you need to use materials containing alkyd, latex and polyurethane components.

Homeowners who decide to learn how to competently paint OSB indoors should take into account the specifics of the work. First of all, it lies in a particularly pronounced texture of the material. The paint will spread over the body of the chips, so for quality coverage 2-3 coats of paint will be required. For those who are interested in decorating plates, this fact will even come in handy - several layers of color will contribute to the implementation of original visual effects.

Toning and multi-color coloring is generally acceptable only for sheets with pronounced moisture absorption. As for moisture-resistant specimens - in cases where laying on the floor is not provided with insulation, you should use enamels based on chemical solvents:

Alkyd.
Oil.
Polyurethane.

Coloring composition or how to paint a wood-based OSB board on the facade of a building?

To cover OSB panels outdoors, special paints are needed. The composition intended for internal work is not used here. The level of its environmental friendliness is much higher, which means that the price is appropriate, therefore, use such material for exterior finish economically unprofitable. The technical side of the issue also plays a role:

Facade paint must be high level vapor permeability.
The coating must prevent moisture from entering the surface of the panels.
The best choice for panels with low moisture resistance will be coatings based on latex and silicone.

In reality, the painting of the slab and photos of the preparatory processes demonstrate that the OSB3 outer skin is first coated with a primer. For these purposes, the primers GF-020 and GF-021 have proven themselves perfectly. Before painting the OSB-plate on the facade with a primer, it is pre-sanded and cleaned of dust.

Suitable for moisture resistant sheets alkyd enamels, which have repeatedly demonstrated examples of durable coating. When implementing design projects, the surface is covered with stain, but here the question may arise, which varnish to cover the texture with. The answer to it is simple - vinyl or polyurethane, the decorative benefits of such processing are very tangible.

Paint preparation and application

Paints and varnishes are usually applied to OSB panels in at least two layers. The first is diluted with 10-15% solvent of the appropriate type. Depending on the composition of the paint, it can be acetone, water or solvent. The second layer is not diluted. Coating technology takes into account the following nuances:

Latex and water-dispersed acrylic paints They have good spreadability, so even when applied with a brush, there are no streaks or streaks left.
Viscous alkyd and polyurethane coatings are applied with a roller.
Practice shows that when working with a spray gun, consumption is reduced, which is very important when using expensive stains and patina.

Basically, painting the slab on the video represents the process on already mounted planes. This method significantly reduces the cost paintwork material, but such processing does not protect well from moisture, especially for the ends of the sheet on the facade areas. Therefore, it would be wise to paint it before installation on both sides.

Before painting OSB wood board inside or outside the house, you should also think about the subsequent care of the surface. If you purchased high-quality paint and applied it in 2-3 layers, then the plane will retain its original appearance for a long time only with periodic washing. For prevention purposes, every 3-5 years, you can renew the coating with a layer of varnish or translucent paint.

The ends are traditionally covered with planks, thereby masking the joints. They are fixed after painting, often highlighting with a different color scheme. Over time, after shrinkage of the building, peeling of the veining of the sheets is possible. In this case, it is better to tear off the decorative strips and reattach them, filling up the old holes with putty.

In construction and repair, various sheet materials are often used for wall and ceiling cladding. One of these materials is oriented particle board(OSB), also found on sale under the English name OSB (Oriented Strand Board).

OSB: what is it and how to use it

OSB is made from wood chips and large chips, gluing them together at high temperature with synthetic resins.

The slab consists of several layers, usually 3-4, with different chip orientations.

In the outer layers, the chips are located along the long side of the sheet, in the inner layers - across. According to its characteristics, OSB is close to plywood, but costs less.

Advantages and Features

A distinctive feature of OSB is its high strength, due to the cross arrangement of wood fibers. In terms of strength, the boards are superior to MDF, chipboard and wood, slightly inferior to plywood. Plates show high resistance to chemicals. Some manufacturers use special impregnations in the production of boards - fire retardants, which reduce the combustibility of the material. OSB boards are easy to process; to work with them, you need a regular woodworking tool.

How OSB boards are calculated

Basically, 2 standard sizes of plates are 2440 * 1220 mm (American standard) and 2500 * 1250 mm (European). There are OSB and other sizes, but they are much less common and are produced mainly to order.

To calculate the quantity, it is easiest to draw a wall plan on checkered paper, taking the cell size as 250 for European standard plates or 300 mm for American. Then draw OSB boards on the plan and count their number. It is better to arrange the sheets in a checkerboard pattern. In this case, it is necessary to take into account how the surface will be finished in the future.

If sheathing is planned, for example, with siding on the street or gypsum board indoors, joining with non-factory cuts is allowed, but if painting is provided, try to join the plates with factory cuts. It is desirable to keep the number of joints to a minimum. For example, it is better to sew up a wall fragment measuring 2.4 m by 1.2 m with one sheet, and not with 3 pieces of 0.8 * 1.2 m, because it is quite difficult to make a perfectly even cut, and even a slight deviation from straightness forms a gap. To the received amount of OSB, you need to add a few sheets for a margin in case of marriage or errors when cutting.

An easier way is to divide the surface area by the leaf area. In this case, "in reserve" it is necessary to take at least 20% of the quantity. Round up the resulting number.

What are OSB boards for exterior walls

OSB is made of 4 types:

OSB-1 - used only in dry rooms for sheathing.
OSB-2 - used as a structural material in dry rooms.
OSB-3 - can be used both indoors and outdoors. Can be used in conditions with high humidity. Strength allows OSB-3 to be used as a structural material.
The most common class of OSB-4 is more durable and moisture resistant than OSB-3.

For exterior wall cladding, only classes 3 and 4 can be used.

Installation outside: crate

External wall cladding can be carried out in several cases:

In order to align existing walls, hide defects (cracks, crumbling plaster, etc.) and just as a lining.
In frame construction - to protect the insulation from wind and precipitation, as well as an element of the carrier system.
When insulating walls - to protect the insulation from atmospheric phenomena.

In all 3 cases, OSB sheets are attached to the crate. The crate is made of wooden lumber of various sections, depending on the task. The most commonly used non-planed bar conifers natural humidity with a section of 50 * 50 or 40 * 50 mm. Mounting OSB on a metal frame is allowed.

When insulating, the crate is carried out in increments of a multiple of the width of the insulation minus 20 mm, without insulation - the step is chosen so that the joints of the sheets fall on the bar, several additional racks are added between the joints with a distance between them of at least 600 mm.

When cladding walls, use a moisture-windproof film, following the recommendations of its manufacturer, in particular, the distance between the membrane and the OSB.

How to attach panels to the wall

OSB boards are usually attached to the wall through the crate with self-tapping screws for wood when used in a frame of bars or for metal when attached to a frame made of a metal profile. The length of the self-tapping screw should be 25-45 mm.

It is allowed to mount the OSB directly on the wall. To do this, holes are drilled in a sheet cut to size, the sheet is put in place, the wall is drilled with a puncher in the intended places, dowels are inserted and self-tapping screws are twisted. When attached to wooden base the hardware is screwed in without pre-drilling.

Fasten the screws in one selected direction, for example, from left to right from bottom to top, otherwise the OSB sheet may bend.

How to decorate from osb outside beautifully

OSB has a rather interesting texture, which leaves many options for finishing. At the same time, it must be remembered that OSB is 90% wood, so the material is subject to the same hazards as wood. Fungus, mold can appear on the plates, they are subject to rotting to a small extent, the resin can be destroyed under the influence of sun rays, the ends of the panels absorb moisture.

OSB-plate is treated with wood compounds for outdoor use. The composition must provide protection from ultraviolet radiation. To preserve the color and texture, the surface is covered with colorless varnish and antiseptic impregnations, to give wood shades - decorative antiseptics, for painting in various colors - facade paints for wood.

For getting smooth surface OSB walls are plastered and puttied. Before applying the plaster, the surface of the slab must be protected from moisture with special primers or glassine, then the plaster mesh is fixed and plastered. Drawing is possible decorative plaster or painting.

Also, OSB walls can be covered with any type of siding or facade panels, block house, clapboard, etc.

OSB material for interior work

OSB indoors is used for cladding walls, ceilings, for subflooring, as a structural material in the manufacture of built-in furniture, to create decorative elements, boxes, technological cabinets. In frame housing construction, the internal wall cladding of the OSB increases the strength of the structure.

Work progress

sheathing OSB walls consists of the following steps:

Markup.
Sheathing device.
Laying heat and sound insulation if provided by the project.
Fastening solid sheets of OSB.
Sawing OSB to size.
Fastening the rest of the sheets.

Tools

For sheathing OSB walls you will need:

Hacksaw, Circular Saw or a jigsaw for cutting material.
Screwdriver.
Level.
Marking tool (tape measure, square, pencil).
Perforator for sheathing brick walls.
Chisel.

Interior finishing options

The unusual structure of the OSB allows you to create a rather attractive interior. Tiles can be used without finishing, but it is better to varnish them to improve operational properties. OSB can be painted with wood paints, treated with decorative impregnations for wood. To obtain a smooth surface, the panels need to be puttied with wood putties, after which they can be painted or wallpapered.

How to make a crate for osb

When constructing a crate from bars, first a bar is fixed along the perimeter, then vertical racks are installed in increments of 406 mm with a sheet width of 1220 mm and 416 mm with a sheet width of 1250. If you need to join the sheets in height, a horizontal bar is attached at the junction.

The bars are attached to the wall in 2 ways:

Directly through the bar. When fastening to concrete, brick, cinder block and aerated concrete walls holes are drilled in the bars according to the diameter of the dowel in increments of 300-400 mm, the bar is attached to the wall, holes are drilled through the prepared holes in the wall with a puncher, dowels are inserted and screws are twisted or anchors are used. It is more convenient to first fix the bar along the edges, after which you can not hold it and calmly fasten it at the other designated points. When attached to wooden walls the bar is attracted with self-tapping screws without drilling holes. Self-tapping screws are better to use "white" or "yellow", because. with excessive effort, the “black” hat breaks off and it is very difficult to remove such a self-tapping screw. To adjust the frame vertically, wood linings are used.
On galvanized corners or U-shaped fixing profiles. In this case, the position of the bars is first marked, fasteners are installed according to this markup, then the bar is attached with self-tapping screws.

When using a metal profile for the frame, a guide profile is attached around the perimeter, and a rack profile on the plane. The profile is fixed to the wall on special suspensions.

Racks and rails on the walls must be strictly vertical!

Is a frame crate with OSB sheathing inside mandatory?

OSB boards can be mounted directly on the wall, but it is better to use a crate. This will allow you to correct the slope or curvature of the wall, lay mineral wool to improve heat and sound insulation. The crate also creates air cushion, so that the space between the wall and the OSB-plate is ventilated.

Installation of OSB boards

OSB is fixed with the long side oriented vertically to reduce the number of horizontal joints. When attaching the first sheet, you should control its level position, otherwise cracks may appear in the corners of the walls. Otherwise, the fastening rules are the same as for outdoor work.

What should be the thickness

OSB comes in different thicknesses: 6, 8, 9, 10, 12, 15, 18, 22, 25 mm.
Sheets with a thickness of 6 and 8 mm are used for sheathing ceilings and structures that are not subject to mechanical stress. OSB-plates with a thickness of 6 mm can be used for curved surfaces with a large radius of curvature.

Plates with a thickness of 9-12 mm are the main sheathing material for facing walls and ceilings both outside and inside the premises, for the construction of a continuous crate under the roof.

Material with a thickness of 18 mm or more is used for the manufacture of furniture, load-bearing structures and subfloors.

Work examples

OSB sheathed loft

OSB built-in shelving

OSB seating area

OSB putty

Operation of finishing from OSB: features

OSB walls do not require any special care, it is enough to follow the rules common to wooden surfaces, for example, to prevent prolonged exposure to moisture.

OSB is a modern high-tech material, with correct installation able to last for many years.