The main nodes and connections of the frame house. Hardware for a frame house. The use of special fasteners in construction What self-tapping screws to use for fastening a frame house

Over the past decade, screws and self-tapping screws have become so popular that we practically don’t remember about nails. At the same time, in the West, for the most part, only nails are used in frame construction. So which is better, nails or screws?

We did a little test to show one of the main disadvantages of screws, which many people forget about.

So that self-tapping screws or screws made of a metal alloy do not bend when screwing, they are hardened during the manufacturing process. After it, the metal becomes hard, but brittle. This is the main disadvantage of screws and self-tapping screws. But to be precise, only galvanized self-tapping screws (white, yellow) are hardened. Black self-tapping screws are usually made from oxidized C1022 steel, although this is also relatively brittle.

The nails are not hardened, so they hold heavy loads better. If the load is excessively increased, the nail will bend but not break, as opposed to screws or self-tapping screws. That is why they are still used in construction when assembling frames in areas with increased loads. Screws, often, are assigned the role of fastening finishing materials.

Another advantage of nails is that with special nail guns, the process of assembling structures is accelerated at times.

Now a little test. For comparison, we took two screws 6x90 and 4.5x70, two self-tapping screws 4.8x110 and 3.5x55, as well as a small 3x75 nail.

A short video will help you see the difference between them.

It can be seen that hardened self-tapping screws are the most fragile and break almost immediately. Black steel self-tapping screws are more durable, but also do not withstand several bends. But to break a nail, you need to make a couple of dozen sharp bending movements.

This test does not mean that we are campaigning for the use of nails. We just want to show that the choice of fasteners should be treated with due attention. And, of course, there are a lot of places where self-tapping screws will give odds to any nails.

The main and most common connections in a frame house easier and more reliable to do with special fasteners. Each of them has its own fasteners, which ensure the strength and stability of the entire structure. It is easy to use and allows you to abandon such laborious connections as a half-tree tie-in or various "locks".

Connecting fasteners for assembling frame wooden building structures has been used for a long time: tightening brackets, bolts and clamps. Very often used in the construction of frame houses. Today it has become more diverse and perfect. Fasteners not only simplify and speed up the assembly of building structures, but also make them stronger and more stable. Fasteners are most effectively used in the construction of prefabricated frame houses. Connecting fasteners for building construction wooden structures too diverse to be described in one article. Therefore, in the example frame house consider only a part of the fasteners, but the most used and mass-produced.

Connecting fastener made from cold rolled steel sheet thickness 2.0 - 4.0 mm, in the form of perforated (with holes) plates, corners, holders, supports for beams, connectors (plates with needle spikes - connectors), as well as shoes for bearing racks and columns mounted directly on the foundation . Depending on the purpose (dimensions of the connected parts and the loads transferred to them), each type of such fasteners is presented in several versions: in size, perforation configuration (holes) and even with additional elements(ribs) of increased rigidity.

Fastener perforation regulates the thickness of nails and tie bolts, as well as their number: on the one hand, they are enough to securely fix the connection, on the other hand, wood cracking does not occur. Such fasteners may various coatings, protecting it from corrosion: zinc, primer or polymer-powder paint. Part of the connecting fastener is also used for repair work(for example, a corner when constructing a frame internal partitions). Therefore, choosing such fasteners (dimensions, metal thickness, design option, perforation, stiffeners and protective covering), you should imagine what loads it will experience during operation.

Connecting fasteners have a number of undeniable advantages over classical connections in the construction of low-rise wooden houses and, first of all, prefabricated-frame, in which you have to make a lot of different nodal connections.

First, there is no need to perform time-consuming and requiring considerable skill classic connections half-tree tie-in type or long locks. There is no splitting of wooden structures from excessive a large number and sizes of nails and bolts: normalized perforation of fasteners (holes) does not allow the use of nails that are too thick and drive them close to the edge of the bar.

Secondly, the classic tie-in leads to a decrease in the strength of the timber due to a decrease in its cross section at the joints (wood sampling). Steel connecting fasteners, on the contrary, create additional reinforcement of the structure of the nodes.

: used in butt joints where tensile loads are applied, such as when splicing a beam for tightening or making roof trusses.

Mounting plates are used in connections that experience tensile loads. They are applied to the connection on both sides and pulled together: with bolts - 2 holes with a diameter of 11 mm and with nails - the remaining holes with a diameter of 7.5, 5 and 4.5 mm. The dimensions of the holes determine the diameter of the bolts and nails used: their task is to ensure the necessary strength of the connection, preventing splitting of the wood.

: used in various corner connections(walls, supporting frame studs, tie beams, roof rafters, etc.). An angle with a stiffener has a higher resistance to bending loads.

Mounting angles are used for angular connection between walls or the upper tie bar with a roof truss. They are presented in various sizes and several designs, including those reinforced with a stiffener. The corners are applied to the connection from two sides and tightened: with bolts - 2 holes with a diameter of 11 mm and with nails - the remaining holes with a diameter of 7.5, 5 and 4.5 mm. Bolts for fixing are used only in particularly strong connections.

Installation of beams attic floor or roof rafters using mounting brackets. Fastener perforation ensures the optimal number, thickness and location of nails in terms of loads occurring in the joint and eliminates splitting of wood. Corners with a stiffener are more resistant to bending loads.

Beam holders and supports

Beam holders and supports: indispensable for the construction of ceilings (floor and attic) in frame houses. Withstand high tensile loads in various corner joints. The holder is designed to fix the floor beam on the wall, column or other beam during construction. The support (or shoe) allows you to install the beam on the walls or columns of an already erected building (during reconstruction).

The support can be universal (consists of separate left-hand and right-hand elements) - suitable for beams of any section and specialized - for beams of a specific section. In addition, the support can be designed for surface mounting or for finishing. Shoes for posts and columns: the shoe is bolted or poured with concrete into the foundation or foundation. Its design allows, even after installation, to adjust its height (± 25 mm).

The beam holder is used in the device wooden floors when it lies with its ends on walls or other beams. Each connection is fixed on both sides. Therefore, the holder is left-handed and right-handed. He is nailed down. The number and size of nails is regulated by holes with a diameter of 5 mm.

It consists of two separate parts - left-hand and right-hand and fits beams of various sections. The connection is fixed on both sides with bolts and nails. Mostly such supports are produced in the same size and from sheet steel with a thickness of at least 2.5 cm.

It is already designed for a specific beam section and is represented by several standard sizes and two design options: 1 and 3 - for subsequent finishing in order to hide their vertical “wings” curved outward for fasteners; 2 - without subsequent finishing ("wings" are hidden).

The beam support is used in the construction of wooden floors, when it cannot be supported on the walls or columns themselves (for example, a floor installation in an existing building). Each connection is fixed on both sides with bolts and nails. In our example, two short beams are connected by supports through center pillar is a practical solution to a common problem.

Shoes for bearing racks and columns are installed (anchored) in concrete foundation during its pouring (and bolted to the finished one). Exist various designs shoes: 1 and 4 - for pouring in concrete; 2 and 3 - bolted; 1 and 2 - the rack is installed in the shoe; 3 and 4 - the shoe is cut into the rack; all structures, once mounted, can be rotated around own axis and height adjustable.

The rack or column is installed on the mounted shoe and fixed necessary quantity bolts: 1 - the rack is installed in the shoe; 2 - the shoe is cut into the rack. In this state, the rack can be turned to the desired angle around the axis and adjusted in height in the range of ± 25 mm.

Connectors

Connectors: designed for complex nodal connections in roof trusses covering spans of 7.5 meters or more. The connector is a flat plate, in the body of which, by stamping, needle nails (or spikes) of a certain configuration are cut out. They are made both in the form of plates with specific dimensions, and a tape (width 25 - 152 mm), cut to the required length. The connectors are pressed into the wood with spikes (across the fibers) on both sides of the joint. The principle of working with connectors is well understood by the example of mounting a roof truss, where two connectors (on 2 sides) allow you to assemble a unit from 3 parts at once.

Connectors - special connecting fasteners

Connectors - special connecting fasteners. It allows you to assemble and strengthen complex nodal connections of 3 or more parts, for example, in roof trusses with spans of more than 7.5 m. The connector is a flat plate, in the body of which needle spikes are cut. They are made in the form of finished plates with specific dimensions or tape (width 25 - 152 mm). They are pressed into the wood with spikes on both sides of the joint.

When creating a modern frame structure, they use self-tapping screws, nails or screws. This is a fairly convenient mounting option. And in ancient times, such wooden structures were created without a single nail or screw. The craftsmen knew how to create a hidden tenon-groove. This mount was very strong. Created several centuries ago, Western European half-timbered houses live today, because the tenon-groove that the carpenters of that time used is a skill without which it was impossible to build frame house. Most likely, there were already nails and various staples, but they were not used at that time, due to their extremely high cost. The tenon-groove fastening justifies itself in many ways, because with it the tree is connected to the tree, and this is considered more appropriate than fastening wood to tree with screws or nails. And yet today, self-tapping screws and nails are a popular type of hardware, and today there are almost no craftsmen who master the skill of making an accurate and reliable type of “oblique tooth”, “dovetail”. Although such alternative compounds are quite acceptable and even preferred in our time.
Strength frame structure and its rigidity depends not only on the quality of the connections and the quality of the material itself, but also on the method of fastening, and correctly distributed loads at the design stage. If the connections are made incorrect or overloaded, then soon they will manifest themselves as singing sounds and squeaks. To prevent the structure from loosening, it is necessary to strictly observe the assembly technology and monitor the assembly quality of the frame elements. To prevent corrosion, self-tapping screws must be galvanized or otherwise treated against corrosion. You can additionally dip them in drying oil, primer or some other protective compound during screwing or work well after, although this will be less effective.

In fact, nails are successfully replaced with self-tapping screws. various types. Because they have a wide range of benefits. The main advantage is that they securely fix all the elements. Unlike a nail, a self-tapping screw has a thread. This allows it to be screwed into any material: be it wood, plastic, drywall, plywood or metal. For metal, special self-tapping screws are used, with a stronger structure and smaller threads. In addition, self-tapping screws, with the same length as a nail, have improved qualities in terms of holding strength for pulling out or stretching. Even a small self-tapping screw will hold any material firmly, and most likely will not loosen over time, as a nail can when assembling furniture. This allows you to successfully use self-tapping screws where nails can ruin the look. And more importantly, self-tapping screws can be easily removed if necessary, as they have a thread and a slot for unscrewing.

A few tips and tricks when using self-tapping screws and nails in construction

The number of nails used does not yet guarantee the strength of the structure.

You need to arrange nails “wisely”. It is advisable not to hit them on the edge of the board, so as not to split. It is better to hammer nails “at an angle” - this way they hold more securely.

If you need to hammer a nail in a certain place, but there is a risk of splitting the board, first blunt the point, the nail will not push the fibers apart and split the board, but will crush them.

It is desirable to select the length of the nail in such a way that it does not slightly go out of the material to which we nail. Too thin a nail will not hold well. Long - to score for a long time, but it will not be stronger if it comes out or even splits the board.

Where the design "works to tear", it is better to use self-tapping screws instead of nails required diameter. It's more reliable.

Self-tapping screws are also preferable where any vibrations are transmitted to the structure, for example: doors, windows; and also where we carry out sheathing on wood with any other material: fiberboard, chipboard, plywood, plastic, etc., as well as when attaching to wooden structures, for example: metal wire hangers, flagpoles, etc. In such places, the nails “crawl out” over time, and they have to be finished off, which does not add strength. It is better to immediately replace such a “live” nail with a self-tapping screw or screw.

Self-tapping screws are also used in places that will probably have to be disassembled later, this will facilitate disassembly and will not damage the material being disassembled.

To prevent the self-tapping screw from splitting the wood when screwing, you can pre-drill a hole of the same or smaller diameter.

It is much easier to tighten a self-tapping screw if it is lubricated with soap or dipped in oil.

A drill will help you quickly wrap a lot of self-tapping screws, in the chuck of which a bit or a screwdriver is installed. If possible, use a special screwdriver. Of course, it will be more convenient for them to work. In this case, the assembly speed on self-tapping screws will be the same as on nails.

In chapter, Download documents, instructions, programs there is a document: Connections on nails, screws and screws. Selection of fasteners for wooden housing construction, requirements and test methods.
The standard was prepared by the Association of Wooden Housing Construction within the framework of the adopted program "General program of work on regulatory and technical support for the production and use of wooden structures." A very detailed document with explanations: what and where to use fasteners, their type and size.

And now another fact: what happened to the self-tapping screws in just a few rainy days.

In 2013, in the summer, the porch of my house was painted. Before painting in the middle of summer, all the boards were removed (fortunately, everything was held on galvanized self-tapping screws). The boards were lightly sanded with a manual electric planer so that burrs did not stick out and the paint lay more evenly. Since the boards had completely dried up in a couple of years and were trimmed, they had to be screwed to new places close to each other, but without much fanaticism. Everything was done quickly without gaps and painted with a covering antiseptic "Vinha", which is used to paint the whole house. What was my surprise when, having arrived at the dacha in the fall (the autumn turned out to be extremely rainy), I found that where the boards below were screwed onto one whole beam of the porch frame, the boards were torn off and went beyond the porch by almost 5 cm! Taking into account the fact that only boards are no more than 1.8 m wide, and they were not subjected to direct precipitation (maximum rare slanting rains on a well-painted surface).
Since it was already quite cold, he did not do anything, leaving next year. The first photo below shows what happened to the 4x40 mm galvanized screws: the screws in the six outer boards (out of a total of twenty) were broken into 3 parts. The first part - the head and body 0.8-1 cm was in the board outside, part of the body about 1-1.5 cm stuck out of the board inside, and about 2 cm remained in the porch frame beam, of which only a few pieces turned out, and most failed to catch. Therefore, I had to fasten the boards with self-tapping screws at a slight angle so as not to get into the debris remaining in the timber, Fig. 2.

You can often hear the opinion that frame houses are one of the simplest, most rational and inexpensive species building structures. Based on this idea, many developers choose frame technologies for construction, thinking about savings and even about the possibility of building a house on their own. Unfortunately, the idea of ​​simplicity and low cost of frame technologies applies only to those that do not correspond to any building codes and rules for buildings that are built by guest workers and inexperienced do-it-yourselfers. However, the same can be said about the construction of log houses made of wood with your own hands.

Frame technologies really have many advantages, but only in those cases when the house is being built experienced builders from industrially produced components for frame housing construction. An inexperienced or illiterate builder, working with frame technology, can make many more mistakes than when building a house from solid wood or stone materials. Where, when building a house from massive wall materials only a few technological steps are required, wireframe technologies will require a much larger number of technological “passes”. At more operations significantly increases the risk of errors, non-compliance with technologies and misuse of materials. Therefore, frame houses built without a project and attracting qualified specialists “at random” or on trust in guest workers can be short-lived, they will soon require overhaul due to unsatisfactory consumer qualities (freezing, wetting of insulation, high heating costs, rotting structural elements, destruction of both individual elements and the entire structure as a whole). Unfortunately, in Russia the list of regulatory construction documentation for the design and construction of frame houses is significantly limited. At present, the set of rules of 2002 SP 31-105-2002 “Design and construction of energy-efficient single-family residential buildings with wooden frame, based on the outdated 1998 National Housing Code of Canada.

In this article, we will provide short review the main mistakes and violations of the technology of frame housing construction.

Construction without a project.

This is a universal "general" mistake when choosing any construction technology. However, it is in frame technology the cost of errors can be especially high and lead to cost overruns instead of saving them both due to the use of an excess amount of material (a frame made of large-section timber) and the need for repairs due to insufficient sections of beams, a rare step of their installation, destruction of structural elements due to for unaccounted for loads, incorrectly chosen methods of connection in knots and fastening materials, biological destruction of wood due to a violation of steam and moisture removal.

Building from wood natural humidity».

Practically nowhere in civilized countries do they build houses from raw wood, just as before in Russia they never built houses from freshly cut tree trunks. SP 31-105-2002 clause 4.3.1 states: « Bearing structures(frame elements) of houses of this system are made of lumber conifers dried and protected from moisture during storage. Raw wood is only a semi-finished product for the production of building materials. In Russia, sellers and suppliers delicately refer to raw lumber as "natural moisture" wood. Recall that a freshly cut tree has a moisture content of 50-100%. If the tree was rafted on water, then the humidity is 100% or more (the amount of water exceeds the amount of dry matter). "Natural moisture" usually means that the wood has dried out a little during processing and transportation, and contains between 30 and 80% moisture. When drying in the open air, the amount of moisture decreases to 15-20%. The normal equilibrium moisture content of the dried industrial way wood in contact with the atmosphere will have a moisture content of 11-12%. When drying a wet tree, the length of sawn timber is reduced by 3-7%, and the volume of wood by 11-17%. The use of wood of "natural moisture" for the construction of frame houses leads to uncontrolled shrinkage of the tree, which changes the linear dimensions of the structural elements, can lead to deformations, cracking and rupture of wood with the destruction of fasteners. When the wooden frame shrinks, numerous cracks and gaps open, significantly increasing the thermal conductivity of the walls of the frame house, tearing insulating materials that prevent the penetration of moisture. When wood shrinks, its density increases, which leads to better vibration and sound transmission.

Construction from lumber without preliminary antiseptic treatment.

Even in the most properly designed frame house, falling out is inevitable. a certain amount condensate on the sections of media, which are much more in frame houses than in buildings made of massive materials. A moist tree containing polysaccharides in its structure is an excellent nutrient medium for various forms microflora and microfauna, whose representatives are able to destroy the structure of a tree in a short period of time. SP 31-105-2002 (clause 4.3.2) states that all wooden elements located closer than 25 cm from ground level and all wooden elements not made of dry wood are subject to antiseptic treatment.

Incorrect use of materials.

In the classic frame technology, the corner posts of the frame should not be made of timber or three boards knocked down closely - in this case, increased heat loss through "cold corners" is provided. The correct "warm corner" is assembled from three vertical posts located in mutually perpendicular planes.

For sheathing the frame, materials capable of bearing loads are used. For example, OSB should be structural and designed specifically for outdoor work.

Insulation of vertical frame walls is permissible only with rigid insulation boards. Backfill and roll insulation due to shrinkage and slipping over time can only be used on horizontal surfaces or in roofs with a slope of up to 1:5. When using economical versions of low density insulation boards, it is recommended to fix each row of boards with spacers between the boards to prevent slipping. This solution increases the cost of the structure, increases the thermal conductivity of the wall, so it is more profitable to use a high-quality more expensive insulation more high density. The size of the openings between the racks of the frame should not exceed the transverse size of the insulation boards - 60 cm. It is even better if the size of the opening is reduced to 59 cm in order to exclude gaps between the racks and the insulation boards. You can not fill the walls with scraps of insulation - there will be many gaps.

Incorrect fastening of materials.

Black self-tapping screws can only be used for fastening sheet materials. The use of black self-tapping screws in a power frame, especially in a frame made of damp wood, can lead to rupture of these unreliable fasteners with low shear strength.

In all cases of assembling the power elements of the frame, galvanized nails, or chrome-plated or brass-plated self-tapping screws with a minimum diameter of 5 mm, are used. Use of perforated steel fasteners without bandaging wooden elements not always guaranteed design strength frame.

Fasteners of beams and other elements of the load-bearing frame must not be fastened to OSB boards, especially with nails.
When nailing sheet elements or screwing them with self-tapping screws, it is unacceptable to sink the cap or head deeper than the plane of the surface of the material. From the point of view of structural strength, the penetration of the head or cap by half the thickness of the material is considered a missing fastener and must be duplicated by a properly installed self-tapping screw or nail.
The minimum distance from the edge of the sheathing material to the head or head of the fastener is 10 mm.

Since 2012, the International building code for residential buildings (International building code, paragraph 2308.12.8) requires to prevent shear during an earthquake, wind load, etc. to fix the frame of all newly erected frame buildings to the foundation with anchor bolts through pressure plates measuring at least 7.6 by 7.6 mm with a steel plate thickness of at least 5.8 mm. The minimum diameter of bolts or anchors is 12 mm.

Construction of frame houses using "innovative" technologies.

The most widespread technology in the world frame construction provides for the sequential assembly of "platforms" - floors with floors, followed by the assembly of walls on them and their installation in vertical position. In this case, it is convenient for builders to move along a solid surface, it is convenient to work with materials, any deviations from the design position can be eliminated before the construction of walls begins, and the ceilings themselves rest securely on the underlying structures. For some reason, domestic builders are trying to invent their own own options construction of a frame house with the assembly of walls "in place", mixing the technology of building a frame house with half-timbered technology or "pillars and beams" with the device of floors in last turn, which is fraught with the need to insert or “suspend” floor beams, the need to move along temporary decking, with a high probability of getting injured when falling from a height.

Errors in working with floor beams of a frame house.

Most mistakes are made with the fastening of beams. It is best to rest the beams on the top trim bearing walls, for runs. It is forbidden to reduce the cross section of the beam by washing down the cutout for joining with the strapping. If it is necessary to join a floor beam with a strapping beam or a beam run, it must be fastened through a backing support bar with nail penetration, or with the help of steel beam supports. The steel support of the beam must have a height equal to the height of the beam and be fastened with nails through all mounting holes. Fastening beams with undersized supports, not punching all mounting holes, fastening with black screws, fastening only on nails without a support bar are errors.

The most common step of floor beams in the world practice of frame housing construction is from 30 to 40 cm. This step of the beams makes it possible to obtain strong floors that do not bend under shock load. Overlapping with a step of more than 60 cm is generally not recommended. The minimum thickness of sheet materials for flooring on floor beams is 16 mm for a beam spacing of 40 cm.

Often, bending beams are rallied flat from the boards, and not installed on the edge.

Load bearing capacity floor joists increases if the covering sheet material of the subfloors is additionally glued to the floor beams.
The bearing capacity of frame floors can be increased by rigid cross-beam bracing. Such connections are installed in increments of 120 cm and can serve as a support for internal non-load-bearing partitions (through the subfloor). Also, the cross struts serve as an obstacle to the spread of flame in case of fire.

How to drill holes in floor beams correctly:

I-beams:

Composite H-beams can only be cut or drilled in certain places according to the manufacturer's specification. The upper and lower elements of the I-beams should not be violated. No more than 3 holes are allowed per beam. One hole up to 40 mm in diameter can be drilled in any part I-beam except for the base parts. Glued I-beams Wood-OSB-Wood have the designation "Top". At self-manufacturing Beams based on OSB should take into account the direction of the force axis of the material.

Sawn timber floor beams:

Mistakes in working with frame house cladding.

For foreign building codes and the recommendations of the American Engineered Wood Association (APA), OSB boards can be sheathed both vertically and horizontally. However, if the OSB board is sewn along the frame studs, then the force axis (indicated on the OSB panel by arrows and Strength axis) will be parallel to the studs. Such an arrangement of plates is useful only to strengthen the weak racks of the frame, working in compression without significant lateral and tangential loads (which is almost unrealistic in real operating conditions). If the OSB boards are sewn perpendicular to the posts, they reinforce the frame of the building to absorb the tangential and lateral loads that occur when exposed to wind, base movements due to soil movement. Particularly relevant is the horizontal sheathing with OSB panels in frames with no slopes, to give the required structural rigidity. If the OSB sheets are laid across the uprights, then the force axis will be perpendicular to them, and the OSB sheets will withstand a large compressive and tensile load. So, for example, in the domestic joint venture 31-105-2002. "Design and construction of energy-efficient timber-framed single-family residential buildings" provides (Table 10-4) the recommended parameters for the minimum thickness of plywood for cladding the frame: if the plywood fibers are parallel to the frame studs at a step of 60 cm, then minimum thickness plywood is 11 mm. If the plywood fibers are perpendicular to the posts, then thinner sheets with a thickness of 8 mm can be used. Therefore, it is preferable to sew OSB sheets with the long side not along, but across the racks or rafters. For exterior cladding of one-story frame houses, OSB 9 mm thick can be used. But during construction two-storey houses and any houses in the zones strong winds The minimum thickness of OSB for outer cladding is 12 mm. If the frame house is sheathed with soft fiber boards of the Isoplat type, then the frame structure must have jibs to ensure lateral rigidity of the structure.

Between all sheet materials of the sheathing, gaps for thermal expansion of 2-3 mm should be left. If this is not done, then the sheets will “swell” during expansion.
Docking of sheathing sheets is carried out only on racks and crossbars. The sheets are sewn "in a row" in order to ensure greater strength of the load-bearing frame structure with chain ligation. The outer skin must connect the wall frame with the bottom and top trim.

« Pirogi, floors, walls and roofs of a frame house.

The main mistake in the design of frame pies of floors, walls and roofs is the possibility of wetting the insulation from moisture penetration. General rule building walls in heated rooms - the vapor permeability of materials should increase from the inside to the outside. Even in the floor, where the opposite is often done: the vapor barrier is laid on the side of the ground, and the vapor-permeable membrane is laid on the side of the room.
In any insulated cake of a frame house, there must be a continuous layer of vapor barrier from the inside. "Solid layer" really means that the vapor barrier must not have any defects: the sheets must be glued with an overlap along the entire contour to be protected, without exception. For example, almost all builders at the frame assembly stage forget to lay a vapor barrier under the junction of internal partitions to outer walls according to typical schemes connection devices of paragraph 7.2.12 of SP 31-105-2002.

Additionally, all gaps between sheet materials of sheathing in wet rooms and on the roof must be glued. waterproofing materials to prevent moisture from getting inside the insulated "pies".
In addition to preventing moisture from entering the insulated cake, moisture should also be removed: outside frame wall must be either sheathed with OSB boards, which are a “smart” vapor-permeable material that can increase vapor permeability when the environment is moistened, or protected by a semi-permeable membrane that ensures the removal of moisture from the insulation. Cheap single-layer membranes have unsatisfactory vapor permeability and require an air gap between the insulation and the membrane. Also, cheap single-layer membranes do not protect well from the penetration of moisture from the outside. It is preferable to use expensive superdiffusion membranes, which have really good vapor permeability and can be mounted directly on the insulation.

Frame house ventilation.

Figuratively speaking, the internal space of a properly built frame house is identical to the internal space of a thermos: heat loss through the walls is very small, and moisture transfer through the walls is most often practically absent (but can be maintained during use). Accordingly, it should be taken out. Without thought it becomes impossible. In a frame house in each room must be installed ventilation valves, or windows must have a micro-ventilation mode or built-in slotted ventilation valves. Exhaust ventilation must be installed in the kitchen and bathroom. Abroad frame houses for permanent residence practically do not build without supply and exhaust ventilation with a recovery system.

At the end of the article, we give illustrations of the widespread "folk" design of a frame house, in which, upon closer examination, there is not a single correctly executed element.

The typical mistakes that we have described in the article are easily preventable. Before you start building your first frame house or hire builders, study in detail, albeit slightly outdated, but the only set of rules for frame housing construction SP 31-105-2002 available in Russian. Paying attention to all the details and subtleties of the creation of the power frame of the building and ensuring the durability of its operation, you can avoid costly mistakes when building or ordering your frame house.

Self-tapping screws for frame construction must be used with caution. Many novice developers make their choice in favor of screws. They believe that it is the threaded connection that will give the structure strength and durability. High expectations are placed on galvanized self-tapping screws regarding their resistance to corrosion. Nails today are undeservedly forgotten. These strong and reliable hardware for some reason are considered a relic of the past. Few people want to swing a hammer for hours, risking injury to themselves. With screws, everything is much simpler: they are simply screwed into the tree, easily removed if a mistake is made. In fact, when deciding whether to use screws or nails in the construction of a frame house, one cannot be categorical. Both types of fasteners can be used. Let's take a look at the pros and cons of each type.

To work with wood, you need to purchase screws with a wide pitch between the threads. Hardware for metal have a smaller diameter and thread pitch. They do not provide the necessary fastening strength, since wood is much softer than metal.

When choosing screws as fasteners for a frame house, a number of factors should be considered:

1. Products are quite expensive. It is an order of magnitude higher than that of nails. To assemble numerous frames, you will need several thousand screws. And it will cost a lot of money.
2. Screws are made of hardened metal. They can only be used in connections where the load falls on the separation. Under transverse pressure, the metal breaks easily.
3. If the screw breaks, then it will be impossible to remove the broken fragment. This can become a problem if precise work is being done.
4. Screws are driven using a screwdriver. If you use an electric tool, then there will be inconvenience with the cable. The resource of the accumulator device is limited. Both batteries will die within an hour. Construction will be suspended.
5. To tighten the wooden fragments, you need to use screws with threads only on the bottom. Only in this way will a tight and reliable screed be achieved.

However, you should not unambiguously refuse to use screws in the construction of a frame house. Self-tapping screws are indispensable when installing locks, mounting corners and hinges. Threaded hardware is needed when working with brittle material which is destroyed on impact.

When carrying out finishing work, special self-tapping screws with a drill at the end and a wide cap are used.

Drywall and siding panels are attached with such hardware. Using screws, you can fasten thin sheathing slats by pre-drilling holes in them. The corrugated board is screwed to the crate with special screws with rubber washers.

When deciding which screws to buy for construction, you should not choose products coated with zinc. They cost much more than ordinary hardware, but also rust from dampness. Better splurge on screws of stainless steel. They will last for decades without loss. performance characteristics. Stainless steel hardware can be unscrewed during the dismantling of the building.

Choice of nails

These products have a long history of use in construction. wooden buildings. When a nail is driven into a tree, its fibers move apart and the metal is tightly compressed. Even a smooth nail provides a fairly tight fixation of parts. As far as shear load is concerned, it is almost impossible to break a nail. It can bend, but not burst. Rather, a beam or board will crack. To provide secure fixation tear, threaded or notched nails must be used. Such products work no worse than expensive self-tapping screws.

Consider what nails can be used on various stages construction:

1. When creating a cover. As a rule, a multilayer cake is created from boards and timber. Logs can be up to 150 mm thick. You need to fasten them to the beams with smooth nails 200-250 mm long. It is necessary to nail the floorboards to the logs with screw nails, the length of which is 2 times the thickness of the board.
2. When installing the frame. It is assembled from a bar with a section of 110x50 mm. The best choice for fastening such fragments are nails 100 mm with notches.
3. When installing cladding. Thickness of shields for internal and outer skin varies within 20-30 mm. The best option is to use 60 mm notched or threaded nails.
4. When lining with clapboard or block house. In order not to spoil the appearance of the sheathing with hardware, it is advisable to use nails without hats. The length of such products should be 2-3 cm more than the thickness of the skin.
5. When installing windows. Nails are used only if window frames fastened to the walls with plates. If through fastening is performed, then long self-tapping screws or anchor bolts are used.

When working with nails, it is necessary to use hammers of different weights and configurations. To drive nails with a length of 100-200 mm, you must have a tool weighing 1 kg or more. Products middle length(50-100 mm) you need to hammer with a hammer weighing 300-500 g. When working with hardware for finishing, a small hammer weighing 100-200 g is quite enough. It is better to buy nails in bulk.