How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: technology and its features. What is the best way to insulate a balcony? The choice of the best heater! Do-it-yourself insulation of the balcony from the inside

How to properly insulate a balcony from the inside with my own hands - I had to ask myself such a question when the idea came to my mind to turn our ownerless balcony into a home one. As it turned out, sewing in a room that is a nursery is not at all comfortable for me. I wanted solitude and silence in order to be completely focused on work, and I also interfered with children's study and recreation.

In this article I will talk about how we carried out repairs to turn our cold and ventilated loggia into a living room, or rather into my office, and at what price it cost us. And I will also give valuable advice that will help you avoid mistakes and save your nerves and money)

Balcony window replacement
Balcony (loggia) plastering
Costings. How much money did it take us to insulate the balcony (loggia)
A few tips for those who are going to insulate the balcony with their own hands

How to insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands

What I had to face and what our loggia looked like before insulation

When I told my friends about my idea, at first everyone laughed at me. They began to talk about how little space there was, and they were frightened by the cold of the unheated room - after all, our loggia was essentially an outdoor space. In order for you to imagine what I had to face, I am attaching a plan of the balcony. I had to turn three and a half squares of usable area into a full-fledged study, where my two sewing machines with a table, a cutting table, and an ironing board could fit.

The first window with a balcony door and access to the kitchen. This wall is the main one - it is already warm, so you can not sheathe it. Subsequently, we refused to cover it with plaster, since the brick itself looks quite interesting in the interior. We only cleaned its surface with a sandpaper from dirt.

The second window is located on the wall of the loggia; it required a complete replacement and touched the stained-glass windows. The photo was taken after the installation of a new double-glazed window.

Balcony window replacement

The first thing my story with a balcony began with was the replacement of an existing double-glazed window. When we moved into our new building, we saw that on the loggia (unlike other rooms) the developer installed the windows in one layer of glass. Of course, it was a summer version, they let the cold through with might and main. There was no talk of replacing the double-glazed window, because I also wanted to change the shape of the frame, make an opening sash of other sizes. I don’t know how the project of our house was made, but the architect obviously did not try for the convenience of the residents. Therefore, first of all, I found a company that made a solid two-chamber window according to our sizes. As stated by the window makers, such a window provides 25% more heat retention in the room than the one that was from the developer.

When ordering a new window, there was one small fad that significantly increased the amount of our expenses - this is lamination. That is, from the street side, all the window frames of our house are dark burgundy, wood-like. Therefore, we also had to fit in with the overall picture and make a window in the overall color scheme. For lamination, companies involved in the manufacture of windows ask from 20% of the total cost.

The price for a window measuring 2580 * 1520 cm with a burgundy frame, with installation and delivery, amounted to 20,700 rubles. And we profitably sold the dismantled old window to the Avito website.

Important (!)- if you are going to insulate the balcony and increase the ceiling after installing the window, then tell the window makers about it. They will put extensions on the top of the window so that later your extended ceiling does not close the shutters and you can hang curtains.

Loggia heating, which method to choose

The loggia usually has walls in one layer of bricks, the worst option is a corrugated balcony. Therefore, in order to feel comfortable in this room during the cold season, a heater is needed.

There are two options for how to make the loggia warm. The first is to open the balcony door so that it heats up at the expense of the adjoining room. The second is to install electric "warm" floors or buy oil radiators.

I will say right away from our experience that one heater was not enough for us, and we decided to install a warm floor. Despite the fact that the walls of our loggia were insulated, it was cold from the neighbors above and below - after all, their balconies remained uninsulated.

The choice of material for warming the loggia (balcony)

At the very beginning, my husband was advised to do the insulation of the balcony with his own hands, in general, he is handy with me - he can put a laminate and glue the tiles. But in the case of the balcony, I did not have time to wait until he finds free time, here I needed the work of a professional, since correcting mistakes would cost more. So we found a master who is engaged in this business and watched his work from the side. I found him through Avito, which I first of all paid attention to - real photos and accommodation in our area (so that he has the opportunity to go for lunch, I don’t spend a lot of time).

I wanted not just to panel the balcony, but to make walls that could later be wallpapered, so we chose drywall for the interior cladding. Finding a good specialist who would work with drywall and mount the wiring (after all, I still needed sockets and lighting) turned out to be not an easy task. But I was lucky and found a good specialist who promised me to bring my idea to life! On his advice, after taking all the measurements, we purchased for the insulation of our loggia:

drywall - for walls and ceilings
plywood - for the floor
technonicol rocklite - for flooring
technonikol technoplex - for walls and ceilings
isolar - reflective metallized substrate
bars

The most important thing on this list is insulation. It is due to him that you get a full-fledged living room. We have chosen two types of insulation:

The first type, for floor insulation, is technonicol rocklite. It is a rectangular slab, pressed from basalt fibers, in the common people it is called mineral wool. There is no need to be afraid that it can have an adverse effect on the air in the room (many write about harmful fumes, etc.), on the contrary, due to the ability to pass moisture, and not retain it, it is widely used for warming damp rooms, where there is a possibility of mold and fungus . According to the TechnoNIKOL company, its plates do not burn and do not absorb moisture, therefore today they are recognized as the best heaters on the market. In order to cover the floors of the loggia with an area of 3.8 m2 in two layers, we needed 1 pack of technonicol rocklite, in which there were 12 slabs.

The second insulation we used is technoplex technoplex for interior wall cladding. As I mentioned above, the developer built our loggia in one layer of brick, due to this, it blew from every corner. In addition, uncomfortable stained-glass windows were installed in the loggia on the sides of the window, which gave the house a businesslike look from the outside, and served as a source of constant drafts and moisture for the residents inside. This type of insulation is made of nanographite, due to which it has an unsightly gray color. Although in terms of weight and appearance, it reminded me more of polystyrene, but despite its lightness, it has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. After our balcony ceased to resemble a bamboo hut, I began to think about how to use these magic tiles to make soundproofing from neighbors in the living room)

The third type of insulation- it rather goes as an addition to the first two, it metallized substrate isolon or isolar. We all know that a shiny surface reflects well. It is this ability of the metallized surface of the substrate that allows you to redirect heat into the room, as if reflecting it and preventing it from escaping outside.

As a result, I can say that all the heaters coped with their tasks with a bang, they really keep warm, like a thermos. But at the same time, they allow excess moisture to pass through, preventing the formation of mold.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands step by step photo

1. We cleared the balcony of everything superfluous. Before the arrival of the master, we cleaned our balcony of rubbish and debris, a window had already been installed and heating radiators had been installed.

2. Patching the "holes" of stained-glass windows with the help of technonicol technoplex insulation boards. This did not affect the exterior of the house, but for us the problem of eternal drafts was solved. The slabs were laid in two layers, all the cracks were filled with mounting foam.

Cutting the plates after taking measurements is carried out using a jigsaw and a hacksaw for metal.

3. Bringing electrical wiring to the balcony. In my workshop, it was planned to install three outlets for sewing machines and a laptop, the wires were pulled from the nearest outlet from the kitchen.

4. Floor insulation with beams and technonicol rocklite insulation (mineral wool). According to the reviews of our master, he most of all likes to work with this type of insulation. Since when placed between the bars, it expands on its own and does not leave any gaps, which means it does not require the use of mounting foam.

Although basalt wool and glass wool are two different things, I still played it safe and diligently closed the door to the balcony while he laid the floors. And then for an hour I vacuumed all the walls. Of course, our master laughed for a long time when he saw me walking in a medical mask and gloves. For me, any mention of glass wool is a fear from childhood, when we ran around a construction site and accidentally touched glass wool, any of us got a burn, after which it itched and burned for a long time.

A frame or so-called formwork for the future floor and walls is first assembled from wooden bars. Between themselves, the rails are fastened with metal corners using dowels and a screwdriver.

If the frame is laid on concrete, then first, holes are drilled on the concrete floor at the attachment points using an impact drill. Then, dowels are inserted into the wooden logs, applied to the attachment points and the screws are driven in with a hammer.

Mineral wool mats can be laid immediately on a concrete screed, in a wooden frame between the joists. It does not shrink at all, therefore it is used even on surfaces with high traffic.

To give the floor additional thermal insulation properties - on top of the first layer of basalt wool insulation, you can build a second frame of the crate and lay another layer of rocklite technonicol in the same way. In this case, wooden bars are fastened with a screwdriver to self-tapping screws.

Next, an isolar layer is used - this is a metallized substrate that reflects heat and protects against moisture, and is widely used to create a warm balcony (loggia). After laying all the layers of building materials, we reached the same floor level as the room without thresholds and steps.

Important (!)- the metallized substrate is laid with the reflecting surface upwards.

5. Ceiling insulation with technoplex insulation. In our ceiling, two wires for ceiling lights were installed. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation of the ceiling, electrical wiring was brought out under the wooden beams. I really like this method - it looks neat, without unnecessary wires. Electricians from have a lot to learn from the Bashkir masters)

6. Wall insulation with technoplex technoplex insulation.

The main difference between nanographite and basalt wool insulation is that it is not elastic. Therefore, when installing it into the crate, gaps remain, which then need to be filled with mounting foam.

After all the joints have been processed, a metallized isolar substrate is applied over the insulation. It is attached to the crate using a stapler and a special adhesive tape (connecting tape) - isospan.

After sheathing the entire surface with a metallized substrate, drywall sheets are attached to the wooden crate using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver from above.

Do-it-yourself plastering of a balcony (loggia)

After the balcony was completely sheathed with drywall sheets, including the ceiling, we had to plaster the walls. You can’t glue wallpaper on bare drywall, because its top layer consists of paper and can come off when wet. Additional surface treatment of sheets includes a primer and putty.

At this stage of work, our master left us, since he was only engaged in insulation, and the work of a plasterer as a painter was not part of his duties. We were faced with a choice - either to find a new employee, or to pick up a spatula ourselves. A significant role in the choice was played by the amount that the plasterers asked for - professionals for processing our small area.

Therefore, my friends, for the first time in my life I picked up a spatula and plastered my balcony myself (I posted a photo with the result a little lower). But I will say right away that I liked plastering, as it turned out, working with a gypsum mixture is not at all difficult, and if you are not particularly picky about your walls, feel free to pick up a trowel and master a new type of activity! Later (as experienced craftsmen scared me) after drying, nothing fell off, and the loggia became even warmer - after all, I responsibly covered all the cracks and joints.

So, to plaster a balcony lined with drywall sheets, I needed:

gypsum plaster "Volma layer"
deep penetration drywall primer
serpyanka tape for joints
putty knife
container for diluting plaster
drill with nozzle mixer for mixing the solution
oilcloth to protect the surface from dirt (floor and brick wall)

1. First, I went over the walls with a primer to improve the adhesion to the top coat. Waited 40 minutes for it to dry completely.

2. I sealed all the joints on the drywall with tape - sickle. It forms a strong bond with the binder mixture, which is especially important at seams and corners.

3. Prepare the solution. I first diluted everything according to the instructions, and then mixed the plaster with water by eye. For the second time, you already know exactly what consistency the solution should be. I applied two coats of plaster. It took me four hours to get to work. I concluded that you can cope and learn how to work with a spatula even if you are a beginner. What happened to me you can judge from the photo. The color of the Volma layer plaster after drying becomes not white, but gray, so the ceiling had to be whitewashed with water-based paint.

How much money did it take us to insulate the balcony with our own hands

Two-chamber window with lamination (assembly, installation) – 20.700
Nails, switches, sockets, cable, polyurethane foam, sealant - 4.800
Insulation, bars, drywall, plywood - 11.600
Window sills, braids, laminate, wallpaper, lamps – 4.000
Master's work - 10.000

Total for our loggia with an area of 3.43 sq.m. it took us 51.100 rubles. The amount of expenses depends on the size of the area to be insulated and what materials will be used for this. As you understand, insulating a balcony in Khrushchev will cost much less than insulating a large balcony with panoramic windows.

1. Mentally prepare for the fact that it will be necessary to allocate temporary space for building materials. All these heaters, drywall sheets and wooden blocks are impressive in size and occupied our entire entrance hall of 13 sq.m. It was especially hard for me with small children, who cannot be kept in place and I had to constantly make sure that they did not stumble and carry dirt around the apartment.

2. Separately, it is worth mentioning garbage and dust. Despite the fact that all the dirty work was carried out on the loggia, the builder still had to walk between the balcony and the hallway for materials and tools. Therefore, the entire floor was strewn with shavings and debris. Every time after his work, I had to carry out wet cleaning in the house with a rag and a vacuum cleaner. This is an important reason - why I quickly wanted to finish with the insulation of the loggia.

3. The amount that we were initially agreed on for the purchase of building materials was approximate. That is, in the process, you still had to buy something.

4. One person cannot do all the work for sure. There are two ways out: to find a company doing turnkey repairs, the prices of which start from 50 thousand rubles. Or, as we did, we separately looked for a master for each option. As a result, for the whole process of warming our loggia, we needed: specialists in the manufacture and installation of windows, a plumber, a master in warming and cladding balconies, a plasterer-painter. It turned out cheaper than ordering from the organization, but I also had to spend time searching.

5. Keep in mind, if you still decide to insulate the balcony with your own hands without the help of a specialist, then you should have the tool necessary for the job at hand. These are a jigsaw and files, a drill, a hammer, a screwdriver, a sealant gun, a puncher, a construction ruler with a level, a drywall assembly construction knife, a construction stapler.

6. Do not throw away checks, they may come in handy when repairs are completed and unused building materials remain. Within 14 days from the date of purchase, you can return them to the store and get your money back, provided that the package remains unopened.

7. It is better to make purchases in large chain stores. For example, Leroy Merlin gives buyers the opportunity to return an unused item for repair within 100 days after the purchase. I did not have any difficulty in returning the extra rolls of wallpaper, glue and cornices that did not fit in height.

Conclusion

I hope our experience helped you on how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside with your own hands with a step-by-step photo. Many complain that after warming the loggia still remains cold. We specifically measured the temperature on the balcony, with minus outside. She remained as warm and comfortable as in the apartment.

Work on the insulation of the balcony is of course difficult and dirty. But how much joy I now have in my own workshop. I have my own little corner where I can work quietly without disturbing my loved ones, create in my personal space. So if you have an idea to make yourself an office, but there is no place in the apartment, pay attention to the balcony or loggia. Good luck everyone, bye!

A balcony in a modern apartment is a fairly functional room, so such an issue as insulation and decoration of the balcony is important, and its solution should be approached very responsibly. Especially if you want to increase the total living area due to the balcony. Compliance with the basic rules of insulation and decoration will help turn the balcony into a cozy and beautiful relaxation room.

Basic rules for warming a balcony

Balcony insulation work, as a rule, begins with the dismantling of the previous finish, old window frames and the installation of new double-glazed windows - this will significantly reduce heat loss and increase the temperature in the room by several degrees. Then you should proceed to the insulation of the floor, walls and ceiling. Important! Before starting work on replacing double-glazed windows, you should decide on the material of the window profile (wood, aluminum or PVC profile) and further strengthen the balcony parapet with reinforcement. PVC profile is the best option. It has a high level of thermal conductivity, is not affected by moisture and temperature changes, corrosion and decay.

Main types of windows:

with two-, three-, four-, five-chamber double-glazed windows;
with extended profile;
with hinged doors;
with sliding or tilt-and-turn system.

The window profile can be not only metal-plastic, but also wooden. Modern wooden frames are significantly different from their predecessors - they are fitted in size, have a beautiful appearance, high-quality fittings and mechanisms similar to plastic models. However, wood is not an airtight material, so its use is more justified in regions with a warm climate. High-quality glazing not only retains heat, but also reliably protects the room from wind, rain, and dust. Therefore, you should choose not only the profile, but also the thickness of the glasses. The best solution would be glass with an energy-saving coating, which has reflective properties and has a higher level of thermal insulation.

To perform this stage of work, we recommend using the services of specialized companies, since without certain skills, experience it is difficult to qualitatively, and most importantly, correctly install window profiles.
Do-it-yourself balcony insulation algorithm includes:

Clearing the area from foreign objects.

Dismantling of old structures, strengthening of the parapet (especially important for old buildings).

Installation of a new window profile, heat-saving double-glazed windows.

Laying electrical wiring, installation of a heating system.

Selection of insulating materials, floor, wall, ceiling insulation.

Decorative surface finish.

If all the work is done on your own, you will need the following tools: a drill, a hammer drill, a screwdriver, a building level, a square, a tape measure, a drywall knife, an electric jigsaw.

The main types of insulating materials for warming a loggia or balcony

The modern market offers a wide variety of materials with which you can perform high-quality insulation of balconies or loggias, however, the most popular are: polystyrene, polystyrene, mineral wool, expanded clay, foil polyethylene, isolon, penofol. The choice of insulating material directly depends on the operating conditions, the base and number of storeys of the balcony. For example, at high humidity, mineral wool cannot be used, as it is prone to the accumulation of water vapor, which provokes damage to the coating and contributes to the formation of mold during operation. The best option would be to use expanded polystyrene, penofol or isolon as a heater. Styrofoam, despite its affordable price and ease of installation, has one significant drawback - rapid flammability, so it is preferable to use more modern insulating materials with a high level of fire resistance. Extruded polystyrene foam is a modern insulating material that is easy to install, durable and moisture resistant. Its only drawback is the high cost, which, by the way, is fully justified by the ease of use and high quality of thermal insulation. The choice of material also depends on the season of work, because some insulation materials change their performance properties under the influence of dampness or negative temperatures.

If the balcony is insulated in spring or autumn, take into account the high humidity, which complicates the process of gluing the layers and adversely affects the performance of most insulating materials (with the exception of polystyrene, penofol and penoplex). In this case, the main work must be started from above, because the insulation of the ceiling will allow you to continue working even with a sudden rain. If insulation work must be carried out in winter (if the air temperature is not lower than 20 degrees), then special adhesive and adhesive cement mixtures should be used, which, unlike ordinary cement, do not freeze, but harden even at low temperatures.

Important - mounting foam should also be selected, taking into account the temperature regime, since some of its types are destroyed in frost.

Basic rules for floor insulation

If you want to insulate your balcony with high quality, special attention should be paid to the arrangement of the floor. To complete this stage, you will at least need: wooden slats, self-tapping screws, mounting foam, insulation. Floor insulation consists in leveling it, laying a waterproofing layer (with mandatory processing of joints with a sealant), a heat insulator, pouring a concrete screed (if necessary, a floor heating system can be installed at this stage) and finishing. Tip: if it is not possible to fill the screed, you can skip this stage. Then you will need to lay special logs (wooden plates), between which a heat-insulating layer (for example, expanded clay or foam plastic) should be placed. From above, the logs are covered with chipboard or plywood, then you can start finishing the floor. To insulate the floor of the loggia, you can use an inexpensive insulating material - expanded clay, which, in addition to thermal insulation properties, raises the level of the floor, which is very convenient when expanding the living space due to the loggia. In addition, its use does not require the use of a waterproofing layer, it is enough to use a vapor barrier film on which expanded clay is placed, covered with a reinforcing mesh. The tightness of the structure is ensured by pouring cement mortar, which, when solidified, forms a solid, even surface. As a floor covering, you can use linoleum, laminate or tile.

The list of works at this stage includes:

cleaning the surface from debris and dust;
sealing cracks and crevices (using sealant, mounting foam or polyurethane mastic);
high-quality steam and waterproofing;
installation of a wooden frame;
installation of a heat-insulating layer;
fixing the base boards;
decorative interior trim.
Balcony wall insulation

Before proceeding with the insulation of the walls, the surface should be treated with a special antifungal solution and all cracks on the balcony should be carefully sealed. For this purpose, polyurethane sealants and mastics are most suitable, which have high plasticity and frost resistance. Then you can proceed with the installation of a vapor barrier film (the joint seams are glued with a special construction vapor barrier tape). This is followed by the installation of a wooden or metal crate and the laying out of the selected insulation (for example, foam, foam). The final stage will be sheathing the frame profile with moisture-resistant sheet materials (plywood, drywall) and decorative wall decoration. Please note - if the loggia wall faces the street, you should use a double layer of insulation. If penoplex was chosen as a heater, you should make sure that the butt joints of the layers do not match.

Basic principles of ceiling insulation

Ceiling insulation is an important aspect that should not be ignored. Especially if you do not have neighbors from above - in this case, in addition to insulation work, you should choose high-quality roofing material.

Tip: before starting work on the inside of the roof, it is recommended to apply a special soundproof coating.

In any case, the choice of materials for roof insulation depends on many factors - the climatic zone, wind direction, cardinal direction.
The roof insulation algorithm includes installation:

waterproofing layer;
windproof membrane;
anti-condensate layer (for additional protection of insulating materials);
wooden frame;
thermal insulation materials;
additional vapor barrier for insulation.

The ceiling is insulated in the following sequence:

Installation of a metal frame (suspensions).

Laying a vapor barrier layer.

Fixing insulation (polystyrene, isolon, penoplex).

Application of a foil insulating layer.

Finishing.

How to avoid mistakes when insulating a balcony

Please note that when performing any construction work, the technology and recommendations of manufacturers should be strictly observed. Even if you have certain skills, this is a complex multi-stage process that requires compliance with all technological conditions. This is especially true for warming the balcony with your own hands, because any mistakes will affect the final result. So, when insulating the “windowed” territory, observe the order of the layers - the vapor barrier is installed only after the heat-insulating layer, and not vice versa. The presence of a vapor barrier is a prerequisite that reduces the risk of destruction of insulating materials under the influence of moisture. Replacing double-glazed windows and installing a heating system without internal insulation will not reduce energy costs and is an ineffective way to save heat. The use of low-quality materials contributes to heat loss, so the choice of building materials should be approached as responsibly as possible.
Excessive haste also affects the quality of insulation - non-compliance with technology, insufficient sealing of gaps with sealant, ignoring the rules of waterproofing, of course, affect the final result.

Methods for additional insulation of the balcony

If you plan to use your balcony as a living room or a recreation room, you should take care of its additional heating. In order for the temperature to be comfortable even in severe frosts, it is necessary to install an additional heat source: a radiator, an air conditioner or a floor heating system. Please note: you can combine the heating method, for example, if an air conditioner is installed in the room, then it is enough to install a warm floor on the balcony to maintain a comfortable temperature. However, if the apartment is heated with central or autonomous heating, radiators should also be installed on the balcony.

Decorative finishing of the warmed loggia

Properly done insulation and finishing the loggia with your own hands will not only reduce heat loss, but also save money. For decorative finishing of a loggia or balcony, drywall and plastic panels are the most popular. Moisture resistant drywall is one of the best ways to finish a balcony. It is easy to install and suitable for further decorative finishing (painting, plastering, wallpapering, tiling or artificial stone). Finishing with clapboard and decorative panels also has a lot of advantages. Their distinctive characteristics are: ease of installation (even a beginner can do the job), a large selection of colors, moisture resistance, frost resistance, durability, ease of maintenance.

The procedure for finishing with decorative panels consists of several stages:

Surface preparation: removal of the previous coating, removal of mold traces (if necessary).

Wooden frame installation.

Fixing the panels (work is carried out from the doorway, along the wall, the outer side of the sheets is fixed with special brackets).

Installation of skirting boards, window and door openings.

Please note that the panels can be used for decorative ceiling decoration (in this case they are fixed not along, but across). , make a study or a corner for needlework. Warming and decorative finishing of the balcony is not particularly difficult, so all you need is the desire and the availability of the necessary materials and tools.

The loggia is a part of the apartment that requires high-quality insulation. If you leave it in its original state, then in winter the cold will penetrate into the rest of the premises, and this is an extra cash cost for heating. Owners who do not know how and with what to insulate the balcony on their own invite workers whose services cost a lot of money. And it’s good if hired craftsmen turn out to be professionals, because contractors with a lack of qualification often come to the call.

Show all

If we take professionals as an example, they first visually assess the condition of the balcony and take into account the year in which the apartment building was built. Then they pay attention to the frame (metal or wooden) and evaluate the dilapidation of the skin. Last but not least, experienced workers compare neighboring loggias and can offer the owner to make a design in the same style as them.

Because of the old-style balconies, all the work becomes more complicated, especially if this building is not closed, but open. In this case, the craftsmen are engaged in additional strengthening of the structure and replacing rotten parts: they cut off the rusted metal elements of the frame and reconstruct the concrete site. The upper and lower parts of the balcony are reinforced without fail.

how to insulate a balcony with your own hands

It is after the measures to restore the structure that the specialists are engaged in facing and internal thermal insulation of the room. Often, owners prefer to equip their balconies with foam blocks and double-glazed windows. The stones are laid out at half the total height of the loggia, and the open space is closed with windows. As a result, not only an attractive appearance of the building is created, but also its strength is significantly increased. By the way, a double-glazed window will significantly warm the room.

If the owner of the apartment changes the windows to plastic ones, then it is advisable for him to purchase products with double glass, since single ones retain heat by only 30% in the cold season.

Without preparing the balcony, one cannot approach subsequent cardinal actions. Before purchasing materials for warming the loggia, inside the premises, specialists carry out the following work:

The interior arrangement of the loggia concerns not only the ceiling and walls. It is equally important to insulate the floor, for example, with penofol.

For internal insulation of almost all structures, expanded polystyrene is very widely used. Its low cost does not affect the quality. It is sold in the form of plates with a thickness of 5 cm or more. If the apartment is located in the conditions of the north, then it is better to use sheets 15 cm thick. For the installation of foam, they make a crate with the same cells. Expanded polystyrene is convenient in that it can be easily cut with an ordinary knife.

The positive aspects of this insulation are that it is odorless, does not emit harmful substances, is environmentally friendly and does not affect human health. Sheets, as a rule, are fixed on special "umbrellas" or building glue. As a savings, it is better to insulate the balcony inside it.

Mineral wool is also quite popular. Such insulation is slightly more expensive than foam plastic, but this is due to the additional sound insulation that the material has. Therefore, using mineral wool, you can not only insulate the structure with high quality, but also eliminate street noise. It is sold in the form of yellow rolls.

Insulation of the loggia Secrets of skill from Alexei Zemskov

The fire safety of this insulation is at a high level, and the absence of a specific smell makes mineral wool one of the most popular. The material begins to melt at a temperature of 1000 degrees. Under such rolls, it is also necessary to make a crate. Another plus is easy cutting. The disadvantage is due to the composition, which includes powdered glass, which sticks into the skin when working and causes itching and redness.

Penoplex is a new insulation that has appeared on the building materials market relatively recently and has already become popular. It has a low weight, due to which it is convenient to work with it. Penoplex is produced in the form of rectangular sheets, the cutting of which is possible even with a clerical knife. According to the method of attachment, it is similar to foam, which is glued or fixed with fasteners. The surface of the material is rough, so it does not slip in the hands.

Granular expanded clay is often laid on the floor. Such insulation for a balcony inside has a porous structure and consists of baked clay, so it is environmentally friendly. Builders use it to insulate floors and ceilings.

The work process is simple, it is enough to create a layer of expanded clay and spill it with liquid cement so that the granules are held together. But keep in mind that such material will take 15-20 cm of height from floor to ceiling. In addition, a thin-layer screed will have to be poured over the expanded clay, because the relief surface will not be suitable for laying, for example, the same parquet or laminate.

Another option for insulation - penofol. It is made from polyethylene foam. The material is especially suitable for water-heated floors, as it has a foil coating with a heat-reflecting effect. This insulation has 4 advantages: it does not let the wind through, retains heat, prevents the penetration of water and has vapor barrier properties. Penofol is flexible and easy to cut, and environmentally friendly substances do not harm human health. They produce insulation in the form of rolls, therefore, it is convenient to work with it. The installation process takes no more than 1 hour.

Insulation of balconies and loggias: eight mistakes of finishers

As previously mentioned, foam plastic is cheap, but nevertheless it is practical, many builders use it. What is the best way to insulate a balcony from the inside with polystyrene foam:

The thickness of the wall from the edge of the interior to the exterior, taking into account the foam block, should be 30 cm. This is enough to retain heat and prevent the penetration of cold into the room.

Pouring concrete, expanded clay layer and similar methods cost a lot of money. You can make a similar insulation, but at the same time save money. An option for a cheap finish made of wood and foam can be like this:

How to insulate a balcony? Choice of heater.

Specialists always start finishing from the walls and ceiling, and at the end they deal with the floor. If everything is done the other way around, then the base will be damaged, and the front surface will be scratched.

It is very difficult to calculate the final amount, because many factors affect it. First, you must first decide whether the loggia will be a living room. If yes, then you will have to spend money on double-glazed windows. Secondly, the prices for heaters change almost every day. Thirdly, you need to decide what kind of furniture the room will be furnished with. Therefore, you should not allocate a strictly fixed amount for such an event; it is better to prepare additional finance just in case in case unforeseen expenses arise.

It is also recommended to prepare an estimate in advance and find a cheaper source for selling the material, for example, not through intermediaries, but directly buy building materials at the base. If you turn to specialists for help, they will take into account the following points:

Also, you may have to spend money on furniture and other interior items.

Arranging a loggia with the help of specialists will cost a large amount, which will significantly hit the wallet. But if you insulate the balcony inside with your own hands, then the final expense will be approximately 10 thousand rubles.

How is a balcony different from a loggia?

First, let's make these concepts clear. Both are glazed, so most people call the resulting space a balcony, although this is incorrect. And some mistakenly believe that if you install windows on the balcony, it automatically turns into a loggia.

The key difference between the two structures is that the balcony has no walls and protrudes beyond the facade, while the loggia has side walls and, on the contrary, is recessed deep into the building. In other words, the outside air acts on the balcony from three sides, and on the loggia - from only one or two, if the apartment is corner.

What result to expect

You can insulate both, but the final effect will vary greatly. A well-insulated loggia is no different from a room. In the presence of a heat source, it becomes a full-fledged living space for year-round use.

Due to the lack of main walls, the thermal resistance of an insulated balcony is much worse - it is comfortable to stay there until late autumn. A sufficient level could be achieved with an additional layer of thermal insulation, but this is not rational due to the small area of the room. After warming, there will be almost no free space left.

What about glazing

Since 25% of heat loss falls on, it makes sense to take on the insulation of a loggia or balcony only if there are energy-saving windows. If wooden frames with one glass are installed, you will first have to replace them with modern ones.

Double-glazed windows with higher thermal resistance weigh a lot, and they can only be installed on loggias. Balcony ceilings have a weak bearing capacity, and it is most likely that it will not work to mount such windows there.

2. Consider the design

Before starting work, you need to decide on the type of insulation, choose the option for finishing the walls and finish the floor covering, and also decide how the room will be heated. All this will determine the design and algorithm for its installation.

Since the balcony or loggia is insulated from the inside, it is important to use a vapor-tight material to avoid condensation and the appearance.

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Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is best suited for this. When installed with sealed joints, it allows you to make a thermos out of the room, which will retain heat well by cutting off the outside cold. At the same time, with EPPS, you can achieve sufficient thermal insulation by taking a minimum of precious space from the room.

Some consider Styrofoam to be toxic. This is not entirely true. The material is really combustible and emits harmful substances when heated above 60 ° C, but this does not make it dangerous, since XPS is always covered with a finish.

wall decoration

After good insulation on the loggia or balcony, you can apply any type of finish. Depending on the selected coating, the technology of thermal insulation work is slightly different.

Wooden lining, PVC or MDF panels - for fastening to the wall, you will need to first make a crate.
Decorative plaster or putty with subsequent painting - this type of finish can be applied directly to the insulation.
- the easiest way to glue on drywall, fixed on a wooden crate.

Flooring

The floor of the insulated loggia is no different from the floor of the room, so all existing finishes can be used there. However, for each type you will need one or another version of the subfloor.

Laminate, linoleum, carpet are laid on sheets of plywood, chipboard (chipboard), CSP (cement-bonded particle board) or OSB (oriented strand board) fixed on top of wooden logs.
and porcelain tiles are laid on a concrete screed.

Balcony floor slabs have a low bearing capacity, so only floors on wooden logs are allowed on them. On more solid foundations of loggias, in addition to this, you can also pour a screed for laying tiles.

In both cases, if desired, an electric floor heating system can be equipped. The only difference is that a film infrared floor is used for the structure on the logs, and a heating cable or heating mats are used for the screeds.

Heating

It is important to understand that the insulation of a balcony or loggia will only prevent the walls from freezing and slightly increase the temperature compared to the street. To maintain a comfortable microclimate in winter, one cannot do without a heating source.

There are three main ways to heat a room:

Electric is the most expensive and difficult to install option, but at the same time the most effective and convenient.
Convector - the heater installed at the outer wall can be turned on only on the coldest days or only when there are people in the room.
Central heating radiator - according to the law, it is forbidden to transfer the device to a loggia or balcony, but if the partition is removed or the door is constantly open, the battery will cope with heating even from the room.

Take things out, remove shelves, hangers and other items. Clean the walls of old paint and plaster. If there are foci of fungus damage, remove it and carefully treat the places with a special antiseptic, and then dry all surfaces well.

To prevent blowing, seal all the cracks along the perimeter of the fence plate, as well as at the junction with the side walls, floor and ceiling. Remove the old plaster from the joints and fill them with mounting foam.

The bottom line is to cut off any streams of cold air from the street and make the room as airtight as possible.

If you plan to use the insulated space as an office or a recreation area, you must install the electrical wiring in advance. To do this, install in the right places, lighting and switches.

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It is better to conduct cables along the inner wall adjoining the room. It is not insulated, so it will be easy to hide all the wiring inside the frame or plaster layer. Sockets and can be connected from the nearest socket in the room. But to power the underfloor heating, it is advisable to run a separate cable from the switchboard.

Expanded polystyrene is sold in the form of plates measuring 60 × 120 cm and thicknesses from 20 to 150 mm. Sheets have an L-shaped lock along the contour, which simplifies installation and prevents joints from blowing through.

There are many ways to attach the EPS to the walls. The most common is glue-foam in cylinders, which is applied around the perimeter of the sheet and in the middle. Another option is fixing in the corners and in the center on umbrella dowels with a plastic or metal core. Also, expanded polystyrene is fixed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe sheet to adhesive mixtures for heaters.

To form a single contour of thermal insulation, it is necessary to seal all junctions. It is important to leave gaps of 10-15 mm near the walls in the corners, under the ceiling and near the floor, so that later they can be filled with mounting foam. It is recommended to coat the joints in the locks between the plates with glue-foam or seal with foil.

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The required insulation thickness can be achieved either with one sheet or with a combination of two. At the same time, the second option is even more preferable, since the fragments of polystyrene foam are tightly adjacent to each other and form a single layer, and due to the displacement of the joints between the plates, maximum protection against blowing can be achieved.

After completion of the work, an inextricable structure should be obtained, where each sheet of XPS fits snugly against the neighboring one, and all joints between them in the corners, under the ceiling and near the floor are sealed with mounting foam.

The fencing slab borders the street and is exposed to cold air the most, so the maximum thickness of the thermal insulation here is 80 mm. It is better to use not one 80 mm sheet, but a “pie” of plates: 50 + 30 mm.

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If dimensions allow, the wooden crate is mounted on top of the second layer of XPS, fixing the bars with anchors or dowels directly through the insulation. When the width of the window sill is limited, the crate is attached to 50 mm polystyrene foam, and the second layer of insulation is placed between the frame bars.

If selected as a finish, you can do without the construction of a frame. In this case, the mixture is applied directly to the XPS surface. For better adhesion, the sheets must be processed with a grater or scratched with an ordinary hacksaw.

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For walls, a layer of 50 mm EPS is sufficient. The work is carried out according to the same principle. If necessary, the sheets are cut to the desired size with a sharp knife. To join the pieces with each other, an L‑shaped lock is formed at their ends with the same knife.

It is better to insulate in two layers (30 + 20 mm), and mount the frame on top of the XPS. But if the window is installed without extensions and the space is limited by the width of the frame, the second layer of expanded polystyrene can also be laid between the frame bars.

If you are going to plaster the walls in the future, then the crate is not needed. It is enough to fix the sheets and make their surface rough with a grater or hacksaw.

The ceiling borders the apartment, not the street. Therefore, the same layer of XPS is sufficient here, as on the walls - 50 mm. Laying is done according to a familiar principle. Fastening of your choice: glue-foam, dowel-umbrella, glue mixture. Expanded polystyrene is a very light material and is securely held on the ceiling exclusively with glue.

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When installing, pay attention to the height of the windows. If the frame is installed right under the ceiling without additional profiles, then due to the thick layer of insulation, the window sashes may not open. Consider the thickness of the lathing and finishing so that after installation there is a gap of at least 5-7 mm to the sash.

For thermal insulation of the floor, an EPS with a minimum thickness of 50 mm is required, and preferably 80 mm in two layers. Extruded polystyrene foam has a high density and can withstand a load of up to 30 tons per square meter, so it can serve as a floor base.

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After mounting on XPS, it is enough to lay plywood, chipboard, DSP or OSB - and you can lay a finishing floor covering like laminate or on top. When installing a film underfloor heating, you must first lay penofol or another heat-reflecting substrate.

Under the laying of tiles or porcelain stoneware, a reinforced cement screed is poured directly onto the EPS, into which, if desired, a cable underfloor heating or thermomats can be installed. If the heating elements have a small thickness, they can easily be laid in a layer of glue when laying tiles.

The floor on the balcony or loggia is always lower than in the room, so many people prefer to bring them to the same level and remove the step. This is done using a log of a wooden beam 50 × 50 mm or 40 × 40 mm.

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First, transverse logs are laid in increments of 40–60 cm and attached to the slab with anchors. Then the gaps between them are filled with insulation and foamed, and longitudinal logs are attached on top with a similar step and leveled. Next, a second layer of insulation is laid with foam filling and plywood or other sheet material.

10. Finish

At the very end, the ceiling and floor are trimmed. If plaster is selected, then a reinforcing mesh is glued onto the sanded XPS surface, and then two layers of plaster and paint are applied.

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When lining with clapboard, plastic or MDF panels, molding materials are attached to a wooden frame on the walls and ceiling.

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For wallpapering, it is easiest to sheathe the walls with moisture-resistant drywall. Use the crate as a frame, seal the joints between the sheets with putty and, after priming the surfaces, paste the wallpaper.

The final stage of finishing is the installation of the finishing floor. Linoleum is laid or spread on the previously prepared base. If a warm floor is planned, then it is installed first. Next, skirting boards are installed.

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The exception is tiles. Due to the wet processes during laying, it is better to mount it at the stage of floor insulation and before starting work on the walls.

This material should be of interest to all apartment owners who have a private balcony or loggia. In this article, I want to talk about how simple insulation of a balcony with your own hands will help make it a full-fledged part of your apartment. If you are tired of using your balcony solely for storing old unnecessary things, read the article and find out how to properly insulate it.

What is the difference between a balcony and a loggia

So that in the future no one will be confused, first I want to explain how the loggia differs from the balcony:

The balcony always protrudes forward, beyond the vertical walls of the building. As the floor and ceiling of the balconies, there are interfloor concrete slabs, which have a cantilever fastening to the facade of the house. A vertical fence (parapet) is usually made in the form of a welded metal structure, which is installed in front and on the sides of the balcony;

The loggia is always recessed deep into the facade. Structurally, it is a continuation of the dwelling, however, it is separated from it by a solid outer wall with a balcony door. The floor and ceiling for the loggia are interfloor ceilings, and the side walls are made of monolithic concrete or brickwork. The parapet on the loggia is installed only along the front part, and can be made of welded metal or light building materials (foam concrete blocks, hollow bricks, etc.).

Why you need to insulate the loggia

In old high-rise buildings, apartments with balconies and loggias were rented out to residents without glazing at all. This means that snow and rain can freely get there, and the air temperature throughout the year remains the same as outside.

Apartments in modern new buildings, most often rented with glazed balconies. Glazing helps to protect it from rain and snow, but does not protect it from the penetration of cold, wind and dampness. Therefore, the temperature and humidity on a glazed but uninsulated balcony does not differ much from the weather outside.

I can say from personal experience that the simultaneous glazing and insulation of balconies with your own hands allows you to solve several housing issues at once:

An insulated and glazed loggia can be used not just as a pantry for unnecessary trash, but as a full-fledged room in your apartment. Moreover, when paying for utilities, you still pay for it as for living space;

When summing up electricity and centralized heating, it can be equipped with a study, a small home workshop, a children's playroom, and even your own greenhouse or winter garden;
If you want to increase the usable area of \u200b\u200byour living room or bedroom, and are ready to sacrifice a balcony for this, then I suggest doing the following:

First of all, we qualitatively insulate the balcony, and install a panoramic window with double-glazed windows;
Next, we supply centralized or autonomous heating from the apartment;
We dismantle the old window block and balcony door;
Now it remains to combine your room and balcony into a single living space.

The following offer should be of interest to owners of one-room apartments.

If the layout of your house allows, then due to the balcony or loggia, it is easy to turn a one-room apartment into a two-room apartment:

First of all, you need to carefully insulate the loggia, and install double-glazed windows;
Then bring heating, sewerage and water supply pipes to the loggia;
Install a sink, plumbing fixtures and a minimum set of kitchen appliances;
In the former kitchen, equip a living room, nursery or.

Even if you do not plan to convert the balcony into a living room, then its insulation will help to significantly reduce heat loss in your apartment. Firstly, in winter, this will make the house much warmer, and secondly, it will reduce monthly heating and air conditioning costs.

Choice of thermal insulation materials

To insulate balconies, it is best to use rigid polymer-based heat-insulating materials, or mineral wool-based roll insulation.

Both those and other materials for insulation have their advantages and disadvantages, so further I will talk about their main qualities in more detail:

Styrofoam is a rigid sheet insulation, which is made from expanded polystyrene granules welded together.

It is characterized by the following characteristics:

Structural foam sheets are usually 1000x1000 mm in size, and can have a thickness of 10 to 150 mm;
They have sufficient rigidity, have very low thermal conductivity, and absolutely do not let air and water vapor through;
Styrofoam is considered the cheapest insulation, since its price is about 150-200 rubles per sheet 1000x1000x50 mm in size.

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS or Penoplex) has similar performance properties, but has a much higher rigidity:

Penoplex sheets are able to withstand a significant weight load, so I advise you to use it for floor insulation;
XPS and foam are destroyed by ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, they should not be left in direct sunlight for a long time;
For the same reason, it is desirable to carry out a fine finish no later than a week after the installation of the insulation.

Foam polyethylene foam (Penofol) is sold in rolls 1000 mm wide and 3 to 12 mm thick. Penofol is most often used as an auxiliary heat and waterproofing material. It is laid in the form of a layer between the main insulation and the internal decorative lining.

Penofol in a heat-insulating coating performs three important functions at once:

By itself, polyethylene foam has a low thermal conductivity, therefore it serves as an additional insulation;
A thin mirror film of aluminum foil reflects the infrared spectrum of thermal radiation, so it returns radiant heat from radiators back to the loggia;
The polyethylene film absolutely does not allow water vapor to pass through, so warm, moist air from the room cannot penetrate into the thickness of the main insulation. This protects it from condensation.

Basalt or stone mineral wool is a soft fibrous insulation that is made from interwoven thin fibers of molten rocks.

Basalt wool is considered a universal type of insulation, since it has practically no restrictions on its use in construction:

Mineral wool is sold in rolls or in the form of rigid slabs with a thickness of 20 to 100 mm;
It has a low heat transfer coefficient, absolutely does not burn, is not subject to mold formation, and has an unlimited service life;
Stone wool passes air and water vapor well, however, when wet, its heat-insulating properties deteriorate significantly;
In order to prevent the formation of condensate inside the insulation, mineral wool must be installed in combination with a waterproofing layer.

In addition to stone wool, glass wool is commercially available, which is made from thin strands of molten glass. Its fibers are very fragile and break easily, so after crushing, such cotton wool does not restore its shape. I do not recommend using it for home insulation, because the fine glass fibers can penetrate a person's skin and cause severe irritation.

Instrument preparation

To insulate the balcony with your own hands, you can get by with the usual set of household tools:

To drill holes in concrete, you will need an electric hammer drill and a set of drills with a diameter of 6 to 12 mm;
Holes in brick walls can be drilled with an impact drill. To do this, you need a set of drills with a pobedite tip with a diameter of 6-12 mm;
In the process, you will need to tighten a large number of screws. Therefore, I recommend using a cordless screwdriver with PH2 and PZ2 interchangeable bits;
It is more convenient to cut the bars for mounting the crate using an electric cutting machine, but if it is not there, then you can use a conventional hand saw for wood;

For cutting insulation and cutting cladding panels, you will need a sharp construction knife with a set of interchangeable blades;
From hand tools, you will also need two hammers weighing 200 g and 400 g;
Two flat and one curly screwdriver;
Small and large pliers or pliers;
Building level, plumb line, metal ruler and tape measure at least 3 m long;
Polyurethane foam in large metal cylinders;
In addition to the insulation, from the materials you need to purchase dry wooden bars for the manufacture of a carrier, with a section of 60x60 mm;

Glue for insulation. It is sold in the form of a dry mortar, and is prepared directly at the place of work;
Wide aluminum metallized adhesive tape for ventilation systems;
Plastic dowels with wide washers for fixing insulation. In the people they are often called umbrellas or parachutes;
Depending on your preferences, moisture-resistant drywall, plastic siding panels or clapboard boards can be used for the interior decoration of the balcony. In my opinion, plastic siding is best suited for these purposes..

During the night and day hours, significant air temperature fluctuations can be observed on the insulated balcony, which in turn can lead to the formation of condensation on the walls and ceiling. Therefore, for interior finishing, it is allowed to use only moisture-resistant and frost-resistant materials.

Warming process

Stage 1: strengthening the balcony parapet

Insulation of the balcony from the inside should begin with the installation of windows, but in some cases this may cause problems. During the construction of multi-storey buildings, balcony parapets are usually made in the form of a light metal fence, welded from a corner and a steel square. It is unsafe to mount heavy double-chamber balcony glazing on such a parapet, therefore, before installing new windows, it must be strengthened.

I can suggest three ways to strengthen the parapet:

To strengthen a strong and reliable balcony railing in new homes, you can use a simpler method:

Along the entire perimeter of the parapet, weld additional longitudinal beams from a profile pipe with a section of 40x20 mm, or from a steel corner with a section of 40x40 mm;
To the longitudinal beams, on each side, weld brackets with mounting plates made of steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm. Each plate should have two holes with a diameter of 12 mm;
The existing metal structure must be additionally fixed at several points to the concrete floor slab, as well as to the facade of the building or to the side walls of the loggia. For fastening, expandable anchor bolts must be used;
Tie all metal railing rods together with a truss structure made of a reinforcing bar with a diameter of 12 mm, or a profile pipe 20x20 mm. Weld the extreme ends of the truss to the mounting brackets;
After installing the glazing, the outside of the parapet can be sewn up with decorative plastic siding panels.

In old houses of the Soviet period of construction, the parapet can be unreliable and very flimsy.

From the inside of the balcony, build a new parapet of foam concrete blocks or hollow baked bricks;
In places where the new parapet adjoins the facade of the house or the side walls of the loggia, install anchor embedded structures, at least 3 pcs. in height;
From above, fix the common railing from a wide board with a thickness of 35-40 mm. It must completely overlap both parapets, and protrude outside and inside the balcony, at least 50 mm on each side;
An old metal fence, sewn up with plastic siding panels for beauty.

If your balcony railing is in disrepair, it is best to dismantle it immediately and install a new parapet in its place.

To do this, you can use the following method:

Along the perimeter of the balcony floor slab, lay out a new parapet of hollow brick or foam concrete blocks;
After each row of foam concrete blocks, or after every third row of bricks, along the entire perimeter of the parapet, a reinforcing metal mesh must be laid in the masonry;
The free ends of the strapping must be welded to the anchor brackets on the facade of the house or on the side walls of the loggia;
On top of the end of the parapet, fix a wide railing board so that it protrudes outward and inward of the balcony by about 50 mm;
Outside, the brick parapet must be plastered with a reinforcing fiberglass mesh, and painted with acrylic facade paint in any suitable color.

Installation of metal-plastic double-glazed windows requires certain knowledge and practical skills, so I recommend entrusting such work to qualified specialists in this matter. Firstly, it is more reliable and safe, and secondly, they give a guarantee for their work. In addition, when ordering windows with installation, you can get a discount on installation work.

Stage 2: flooring installation

Balcony floor slabs usually have a small thickness, therefore, before installing a fine floor covering, it must be insulated with high quality.

Floor insulation can be done with foam panels, extruded polystyrene foam sheets or mineral wool slabs.

The general principle of using these materials is approximately the same, so I will tell you how to do this using the example of foam sheets:

The concrete floor slab must be cleaned of construction debris, dried well, and covered with two layers of heated rubber-bitumen mastic;

If you use mineral wool as a heater, then for waterproofing you need to lay a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane or perforated plastic film on the slab;
Fasten wooden bars (logs) with a section of at least 60x60 mm to the floor along the balcony. The extreme bars must be laid close to the parapet, and to the wall in the apartment, and between the middle bars to maintain a distance of 300-400 mm;

In the gaps between the bars, lay foam panels tightly without gaps. If small gaps remain between the foam sheets, they must be filled with mounting foam;
On top of the insulation and longitudinal beams, lay a waterproofing of foil-foamed polyethylene foam (Penofol);

Penofol must be laid so that its foil side is facing up, and its edges should be bent onto the side walls, 60-100 mm on each side;
To provide a ventilation gap between the finishing floor and Penofol, wooden counter slats 15-20 mm thick must be nailed to the longitudinal bars;
On top of the counter rails, you can fix a fine floor covering. For arranging a wooden floor on a balcony, you need to use a grooved floorboard 40 mm thick.
You need to lay the floorboards across the balcony, and fasten it to the logs using galvanized self-tapping screws..

If you want to lay linoleum or laminate on the balcony, then you first need to equip the subfloor. To do this, it is necessary to fix sheets of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB with a thickness of at least 20 mm to the longitudinal bars. After that, the rough floor must be sanded, and a fine floor covering should be laid.

Stage 3: thermal insulation of the parapet and side walls

For normal thermal insulation of the balcony and loggia, it is very important to insulate the parapet and side walls with high quality, because they are in direct contact with cold air from the street. The main wall between the apartment and the loggia can not be insulated so that it freely passes heat from the heated room to the loggia.

Below is a step-by-step instruction in which I will talk about the insulation of walls and a balcony parapet using polystyrene foam and mineral wool:

Before starting work, all concrete and brick surfaces must be treated with an antiseptic penetrating primer. It fills the open pores between the particles of the material, and protects the wall from the formation of mold under the insulation;

Mount a supporting frame on the wall for fastening the finishing inner lining. It is made in the form of a crate of vertical bars with a section of 60x60 or 75x75 mm.
On the walls, the bars should be placed vertically, from the floor to the ceiling.. The extreme bars are installed at the corners of the balcony, and the intermediate bars are attached to the side walls, at a distance of 300-400 mm from each other.
It is more convenient to make the supporting frame for the parapet from three or four horizontal bars. The lower beam must be fixed to the parapet at floor level, and the upper beam must be fixed under the railing board. Mount one or two intermediate beams at an equal distance between the upper and lower bars;

When making a supporting frame, I advise you to lay electrical cables, heating pipes or other hidden communications along the walls in advance;
If you plan to insulate the balcony with foam, then it must be cut into separate plates. The width of each tile should be such that it fits snugly between two adjacent bars of the supporting frame;
Next, you need to prepare the adhesive solution. Apply several large dots of glue to the foam sheet, and press it against the wall in the gap between the frame bars;
Thus, you need to glue the foam on all the walls and the parapet of the balcony. If large gaps and cracks remain in some places, they must be blown out with mounting foam;

Wall insulation with mineral wool has some differences:

Before mounting the supporting frame, waterproofing must be fixed to the wall from a vapor-permeable membrane;
For fastening mineral wool, instead of glue, you need to use plastic dowels, better known as "umbrellas".

After installing the foam or mineral wool, Penofol must be fixed to the wooden bars with the foil side inside the balcony. To do this, it is convenient to use a furniture or construction stapler;
On top of Penofol, wooden counter rails 20 mm thick must be fixed. They will be used to fasten the inner skin;

If you plan to use drywall for finishing the walls and ceiling, then the counter rails must be mounted vertically, parallel to the lathing bars;
For mounting clapboard boards or plastic siding, the counter rails must be located horizontally, in four or five rows. The distance between them should be no more than 500 mm;
At the end of everything, you will need to finish the walls and parapet, and at the junction of each wall and floor, install a wooden or plastic plinth.

In the manufacture of a supporting frame for finishing sheathing, some craftsmen use a metal profile for drywall. At first glance, this option may seem simpler, but I do not recommend doing this. The fact is that metal has a higher thermal conductivity than wood, therefore, at the installation site of metal profiles, cold bridges form in the wall. They worsen the thermal insulation of the balcony, and can cause condensation in the insulation layer.

Stage 4: insulation of the ceiling

If you plan to install a separate heating system on the balcony, then we must not forget that the warm air from the radiators always rushes up. In order not to heat the neighbor's balcony from the top floor, I advise you to pay special attention to the thermal insulation of the ceiling.

The gap between the visor and the floor slab must be blown out with foam.

The concrete slab should be treated twice with a water-based penetrating antiseptic primer.;
Before installing the thermal insulation material, a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane must be fixed to the ceiling. It is needed so that moisture from the ceiling does not penetrate into the insulation;
On top of the waterproofing, fix longitudinal wooden bars with a section of 60x60 mm or more. The two extreme bars should be located at the very corners of the ceiling, and intermediate bars should be installed between them in increments of 300-400 mm;

The insulation cut in width must be laid between the bars. It cannot be glued to the waterproofing membrane, therefore, for fastening it is necessary to use plastic dowels "umbrellas";
To fill the gaps between the foam plates, you must also use mounting foam;
If warm, moist air from the room enters the insulation, condensation will form there. To prevent this from happening, a vapor barrier made of foil-foamed polyethylene should be nailed to the bars on top of the insulation;
Penofol must be attached to the ceiling in such a way that its edges fall on each wall by at least 80-100 mm;

To ensure the tightness of the vapor barrier, all joints of the panels and mounting brackets from the stapler must be glued with metallized aluminum tape;
Further fine finishing of the ceiling is carried out in exactly the same way as described in the previous section (points 11-14):

Nail longitudinal or transverse counter rails to the ceiling bars;
From below, fix the finishing decorative sheathing (gypsum board, lining or panel siding);
Carefully trim the hanging remnants of Penofol;
Install a decorative cornice or plinth around the perimeter of the ceiling.

Even with full observance of the insulation technology, condensation may form inside the heat-insulating sheathing. To protect wood from decay and mold, it is important to follow two simple rules. Firstly, all wooden parts must be treated with antiseptic impregnation before installation. Secondly, between the finishing sheathing and the insulation, always leave a ventilation gap 15-20 mm wide.

Conclusion

After reading this article, you can easily insulate any balcony or loggia in a city apartment without much difficulty. A visual guide to the insulation of balconies can be viewed in the video in this article. All your questions and wishes, I propose to discuss below in the form for comments.