Do-it-yourself toilet installation: installation features of toilet bowls of various designs. How to install and connect a toilet bowl to the sewer: instructions and video Proper installation of a toilet bowl with your own hands

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When a property owner decides to change plumbing, he will not be hindered by knowing how to properly install a toilet in a private house or apartment. The work of dismantling and installing a new plumbing fixture requires special responsibility, since the slightest omission can lead to big troubles - leaks and, as a result, flooding of one's own home and neighbors' apartments.

What you need to know when buying a toilet

The main criteria that you should pay attention to when choosing a plumbing fixture are not only its model, brand and color, but also the dimensions (for more details: "What are the sizes of the toilet bowl - standard dimensions, options"). It is necessary to measure the distance from the sewer drain to the door to the toilet room before buying a toilet, and the result must be divided by 2. The result will be
the maximum size of the device that can be installed in this room.

The color and shape of the toilet bowl is chosen in accordance with the interior solution of the toilet room, it should match the design to the maximum. When purchasing plumbing, they certainly check its integrity and completeness. The existing mechanisms in it should work easily, without making creaking sounds.

Materials and tools for installing a toilet

When the toilet is properly installed with your own hands, use the following materials and tools:

perforator or impact drill;
marker or pencil;
wrench;
drills (drills) for metal by 8 or 10 millimeters, depending on the diameter of the dowels with which the device will be attached to the floor;
a hammer;
drills for tiles, if the flooring is finished with it;
spanners;
silicate sealant;
Phillips screwdrivers;
masking tape;
rubber cuff measuring 123x100 millimeters (required when attaching the toilet bowl to a cast-iron socket);
flexible water supply (when replacing the old one);
cuff - depending on the toilet, a straight, flexible or eccentric is selected;
kit for fastening the plumbing fixture to the base. See also: "Do-it-yourself toilet installation - detailed instructions for different types of toilet bowls".

Toilet installation rules

The fastest and easiest way to connect the toilet to the sewer pipe is to use a corrugated cuff. But at the same time, it is not possible to place the device as close as possible to the pipe socket. You need to know how to put corrugation on the toiletso that everything works without leaks. This circumstance is important when the toilet room is small.

When the toilet outlet and the sewer socket are located on the same axis, experts recommend using a straight cuff, but if on different axes, an eccentric cuff, such as in the photo.

The rules for installing a toilet bowl suggest that when purchasing a flexible water supply, its length is taken into account, which should be equal to the distance from the connection point of the filling mechanism to the cold water pipeline. To this value add 15-20 centimeters.

It is necessary to pay attention to the thread diameter (1/2 or 3/8 inch) and the type of connection (external/internal). Also, do not forget about buying a fum tape. In the process of dismantling the toilet, the remaining water may pour out of it, so the presence of a floor cloth will not be superfluous.

Technology and stages of installation of the toilet

The toilet installation procedure includes the work of dismantling the old plumbing fixture. Before that, turn off the water and disconnect the flexible hose. Then, without fail, the water is drained from the device and the drain tank is disconnected. If necessary, you can use a hammer if the plumbing fixture is no longer useful. In this case, you need to be careful with the fragments, as they can get into the sewer pipe and cause a blockage.

After removing the water from the bowl, they begin to clean the socket of the cast-iron sewer. Rust, remnants of old sealant, dirt are removed from it. Then the transition cuff (123x110 mm) is lubricated with sealant and placed in a cast-iron socket.

In the event that, after dismantling the old appliance, a wooden board is visible under it, it is removed, and the resulting cavity is filled with cement mortar, which is leveled with a spatula relative to the floor level and allowed to dry for 20-30 minutes.

To mark holes for attaching plumbing to the floor with dowels, they take the device and the eccentric cuff and temporarily place it in the place where it will be located. Further, the toilet installation technology provides for marking the holes with a marker or pencil. When the holes are at an angle, then you need to drill them at an angle, and then insert dowels of the appropriate size into them.

Install the fittings of the drain tank, as they interpret the rules for installing the toilet bowl and the instructions (it must be included in the kit). Plastic nuts should be tightened by hand and very carefully so as not to damage the gasket and not overtighten the dowel. It is necessary that the moving elements of the valve mechanism do not come into contact with the walls of the tank. The gasket is treated with a sealant.

The eccentric cuff is inserted into the adapter cuff with the petal part and fixed to the sealant in the cast-iron socket. The outlet of the bowl is inserted to the very base into the eccentric cuff, having previously treated it with a sealant. The fastenings of the holes must match, for which the cuff should be rotated carefully and evenly. Further, the main thing is not to overtighten the bowl to the floor, using screws and plastic washers.

It will help to properly mount the plumbing installation diagram of the toilet. In the next step, the bowl is placed on the drain tank. But before that, the gasket is attached to the bowl with a sealant. The tank is carefully fixed, preventing the gasket from moving.

Then the screws are evenly tightened, the lid, the seat, the flush mechanism, and the plumbing to the toilet are installed in the correct sequence. Produce a test flush, if necessary, adjust the mechanism.

If everything is done in accordance with the instructions, there can be no leaks.

To know how to install the toilet correctly, you need to understand the models and evaluate the possibilities of sewage in a private house. It is much faster and easier than paying the masters an amount equal to the cost of the plumbing itself.

Moreover, in the installation instructions everything is described in detail, even there are pictures. Therefore, installing a toilet in a private house with your own hands should not be a hassle, especially if the sewer is new.

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Tools and materials

Simple set of tools found in every home

drill with a drill with a diameter of 10 mm;
screwdriver;
roulette;
marking marker;
screwdrivers and a set of wrenches;
knife for cutting the gasket.

You may also need a spatula to eliminate chips ceramic tiles. Materials required for installation, except for the bowl and tank:

corrugated hose;
gland - rubber gasket;
hose for supplying water to the tank;
sealing tape for sealing;
a faucet that will shut off water in plumbing;
silicone.

Important! When choosing a bowl, you need to take into account the size of the room, so as not to subsequently rest your knees on the door.

You should also provide for the installation of the product, what stock is available. Of course, it is better when the model of the bowl and the method of its installation are planned at the construction stage. But it happens that you just need to replace the old plumbing with a new one. Then you have to connect to the old sewerage system, and use drains that were made a long time ago.

Toilet corrugation prices

corrugation for the toilet

How to choose a toilet

The bowl should be easy to clean, be comfortable. Sizes are selected based on the growth of all family members. You can buy the model you like, which will be inconvenient to operate, because it will not correspond to the parameters of a private house or apartment.

Do-it-yourself installation of a toilet bowl in a private house is associated with certain costs and I want them to pay off in terms of convenience.

First of all, models differ in price:

Economy class;
middle class;
luxury plumbing.

Parts of elite plumbing are designed for a long service life and will not break just like that. Buying an expensive item, you can be sure that it will last a long time.

Another option is color spectrum. In large supermarkets, you can pick up any shade and embody the most daring design decisions.

Models available for sale:

from natural stone durable and reliable, service life is unlimited;
glass - completely transparent or with a pattern;
faience;
ceramic;
metal;
porcelain, which can reach up to 50 years;
plastic.

When buying, you need to carefully look at what is included in the equipment kit. It may happen that the bowl and tank sold separately.

In addition to external characteristics, you need note:

to the height of the equipment;
type of construction - suspended, floor, wall floor;
what type of flush - reverse or direct;
the method of draining from the tank is one or two-button.

It will cost more, but the structural elements will be hidden in the wall, which will save some space in the room. The reverse flush is better because it washes the bowl completely. allows save water.

Important! When choosing a design, it is worth checking it for cracks, chips.

Prices for toilets

Varieties of toilet bowls

Plumbing products distinguish drain design:

horizontal - the drain is located in the floor;
vertical - parallel to the floor;
oblique - at an angle of 30 degrees to the floor.

Tanks are:

Separated when they are connected to the bowl by a pipe. How to assemble a toilet bowl and a tank is shown in the instructions.
Compacts if attached directly to the bowl. The design diagram is drawn in the instructions, fasteners are included, so assembly will not be difficult.

bowl design:

with flat flush;
with vertical flush.

The location of the neck of the bowl is front and back. The front is more common, as it is more convenient to use. The toilet diagram in the instructions allows you to decide what exactly is suitable for use.

Preparing for installation

If it is implied, then first needs to be dismantled old equipment and install new equipment in its place. Proper installation of the toilet bowl is the key to cleanliness and safety for a new repair. The seams should not leak, the body should not wobble or make sounds.

If the ceramic tiles have already been changed, then the installation of plumbing is carried out directly over tiles. In this case, you need to carefully use a drill so that the tile does not crack.

If the old plumbing is being removed, and there has not been a repair yet, then before starting the dismantling, you need to prepare rags, because water will flow from the toilet. The bowl must be washed and treated with a disinfectant. You should also turn off the water supply and drain the remains from the tank.

First, all existing hoses are disconnected, screws are unscrewed, and the tank is dismantled. Next, you need to knock out the leg from the tile. For this use a crowbar. The nuts are unscrewed from the base of the bowl.

Before disconnecting from the sewer pipe, you need to make a stopper from rags and immediately plug the pipe so that odors do not enter the house. The assembly of the structure will not take much time, so you can use the new thing in one hour if the room has already been renovated. If you have to lay new tiles, you will have to use an outdoor toilet for some time.

How to assemble a toilet can be seen in the diagram. Step-by-step instructions are attached to each equipment model.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a toilet bowl

How to install a toilet? The first step is to connect the bowl to the sewer. This requires a corrugated hose. A rubber seal is put on the outlet end of the product. The other end is connected to the sewer pipe. First, you need to pull out the gag from the rags.

When the product is already in place, they produce the following operations:

Mark holes on the floor with a marker by inserting a marker into them.
Having moved the bowl away, drill holes according to the marks (the diameter must match the fasteners that come with the plumbing, you need to use special drills that can be used to drill tiles).
The product moves into place and is attached to the floor.
The junction of the product and the floor filled with sealant, another option is to cut a thin rubber gasket in the shape of a leg and place it before fastening.

To connect the tank needed:

fixing bolts - 2 pcs.;
rubber gasket under the drain mechanism.

The installation of the toilet cistern begins with the fastening of the bolts. Next, a gasket is placed, and the tank is put in its place. The holes line up and the fasteners are hand tightened. Toilet assembly completed.

Do-it-yourself toilet replacement ends with a connection to the water supply and sewerage. Installation of toilet bowls with a cistern directly attached does not require fastening, as it is a monoblock.

Features of connection to water supply and sewerage

Installation of the toilet is over, then you need to figure out how to establish a connection to water supply and sewerage. For connection to the pipe there is a flexible hose, at both ends of which there are nuts.

Sealing from the side of the sanitary equipment occurs with the help of rubber gaskets or a special tape.

You can simultaneously put a tap on the pipe so that you can shut off the water entering the tank. In this case, other water intake points will work.

How to install the toilet correctly if the drain is different from the previous equipment? You will have to change the piping to match the new model.

Installing a toilet with an oblique outlet

Floor models come with an oblique, vertical or horizontal drain. Installing a toilet with an oblique outlet is different from the vertical or horizontal method.

To joint did not leak, need:

lubricate the outlet pipe with red lead - oil paint mixed with drying oil;
wind the fiber and then also smear with paint;
fix the pipe in the sewer pipe.

The installation of a toilet with an oblique outlet is carried out if the previous equipment had the same drain.

Installing toilet bowls with an attached cistern

The monoblock lasts a long time, so when buying a model, it is recommended to immediately purchase spare internal parts, since models on the market often change, and after a while they will no longer be produced.

Installation of toilet bowls with a tank directly attached is carried out as follows:

the pipe is connected to the sewer;

The assembly instructions for any model are designed for an ordinary buyer or a beginner, so it will not be difficult. It is necessary to study in detail the stages of work, prepare tools, materials - and you can proceed to the procedure for replacing plumbing equipment.

During the overhaul of the apartment, we are faced with the need to replace the old toilet bowl with a new one. A professional plumber is often called in to perform this work. However, installing a toilet bowl with your own hands is not such a difficult task as it might seem at first. If you are limited in funds or want to save on the services of workers, then this article is for you. Below we will tell you how to choose the right toilet, prepare the room, assemble and install a new plumbing fixture.

Choosing a toilet

When choosing new plumbing, you should consider some features of the toilet and bathroom. Namely:

Room area;
The presence or absence of an external water supply pipe, its diameter and distance from the proposed tank;
The location of the sewer pipe;

Release angle. The best option is to install a toilet with an oblique outlet. You can measure the outlet height from the floor with your own hands, and with a slight mismatch, install an adapter - a drain corrugation.

All toilets have their own design and fastening features. First of all, you need to divide them into suspended and floor. Installing a wall-hung toilet has aesthetic advantages, in addition, it takes up much less space. Whereas the floor toilet is more practical, convenient and reliable.

Flush classification

There are two main types of flush - straight and circular.

Direct (or horizontal) is more common in simple budget models of plumbing equipment. Water from the tank flows down the back wall of the toilet bowl, which does not allow you to remove dirt under the rim. During the collection and discharge of water, such a toilet creates a lot of noise.
Circular flush effectively cleans the entire surface of the bowl due to the ring device. However, toilets with this type of flush are significantly more expensive.

Removing an old toilet

Dismantling and installation of the toilet follow each other in the event that you need to replace the old plumbing with a new one. This happens during the overhaul of an apartment or a bathroom.

All actions must be carried out in a strictly defined order:

Put on safety goggles and work clothes;
Turn off the cold water, and then drain the water from the tank;
Disconnect the water pipe and remove the tank;
Unscrew the floor-mounted toilet from the floor;
To detach the toilet bowl from the sewer pipe, use a sledgehammer or hammer. Gently tap on the cement or adhesive covering the joint. Make sure that the fragments do not fall into the pipe and do not clog the drain;
Shaking the toilet, remove the remnants of the sealant and remove it from its place;
Now you can clean the bathroom, clearing the place for a new plumbing fixture. Clean the sewer and water pipes from rust and plaque, and then treat with a lubricant that prevents metal corrosion.

Building a new toilet

Installing a bidet and toilet is not an easy task, but doable. Any floor-standing toilet bowl consists of two main parts - a bowl and a drain tank. Our first task is to connect these two parts into a complete plumbing fixture using screws, nuts and various gaskets.

The assembly of the toilet bowl begins with a drain tank. First you need to mount the drain mechanism, and then the float. The drain mechanism, which is usually attached assembled, is not difficult to install. Insert it into a special hole on the bottom and secure with a plastic nut, on which then put on a rubber seal.

Important: Don't forget the rubber pads! All toilet connections are made using them.

The toilet assembly instructions do not end there. Before proceeding with the installation, you need to connect the drain tank to the bowl. To do this, you will need metal studs. Install the tank on the bowl and secure it tightly by putting a special washer on the stud, a rubber gasket and securing it with a nut. Repeat all this with the second hole.

Toilet installation

Floorstanding toilet installation instructions

Installing a toilet bowl in a private house with your own hands or in an apartment with the help of a professional - all this does not matter. If your choice fell on a floor toilet, then in any case its installation will have to be carried out according to the scheme described below.

Before installing plumbing, it is necessary to complete all finishing work.
Installing a toilet bowl on a cement or tiled floor has its own characteristics. The floor must be perfectly flat, otherwise, when tightening the fasteners, the toilet itself or the tile may suffer.
Insert the dowels into the holes and screw the plumbing fixture to the floor, but not completely.

If you are mounting the toilet at some distance from the wall, then it's time to start installing the corrugated pipe and finally fixing the toilet, checking its strength and immobility. In this case, the pipes are connected using rubber seals and sealant.
When the installation of the bowl is over, it's time to connect the water to the drain barrel and check the operation of the entire device. To supply water, use a corrugated metal hose, tow and nuts of the right size.

Do-it-yourself wall-mounted toilet installation

Installing a toilet with an installation is not much different from installing a hidden toilet. In both cases, a hanging-type bowl is most often used, which obliges us to mount not only a drain tank, but also a metal frame into the wall with our own hands.

Important: Make sure your wall is strong. It is better if this parameter is evaluated by a specialist.

Steel fasteners are mounted with dowels to a concrete and reinforced concrete wall (rarely to a brick wall). The installation height of the toilet bowl is determined independently at this stage.

Attach the toilet bowl and install the cistern following the instructions. Connect them with a flexible hose and connect to the water supply and sewerage system.

Remember: The tightness of the joints in this case is ensured in the same way as in the case of a floor-standing toilet.

Video

Do-it-yourself toilet installation with a competent approach and a thorough study of the issue is unlikely to cause you any difficulties. Below you can find video clips that will make the installation process simple and understandable. Happy viewing!

The complexity of installation depends on the design and especially on how the drain is arranged. The product can be light or heavy. Weight is affected not only by size, but also by material. To achieve good stability, you will have to prepare a reliable foundation, which will certainly affect the height. If no transfer is planned regarding communications, the height can be left the same. When increasing the distance to the outlet, the outlet should be raised so that the water does not stagnate and can drain freely. There are other nuances associated with the method of attachment, the position of the tank, the angle of the drain hole. Recommendations on how to install a toilet often contradict each other, but all advisers agree on one thing - this event requires careful preparation.

Do not start work right away. Even when replacing the device with a similar one without moving it to another place, you must make sure that all work has been carried out correctly and that nothing needs to be redone. It is possible that it will be necessary to replace the old pipe with a new one or repair the base that serves as a support.

Installation steps

Model selection - it is desirable that it matches in its parameters with the old device. Then you do not have to change the eyeliner and put adapters. You can make a choice in parallel with other works, but it is better to decide in advance by calculating all the parameters at the design stage.
Dismantling the old device - you should not carry it out before purchasing a new one. It is more convenient to carry out the replacement immediately within one day.
Checking and repairing communications - they must be fully operational. Errors made during the previous installation must be eliminated. If equipment with other parameters is to be installed, preparatory work will be needed to lay new pipes and change the floor level. As a rule, this is also associated with finishing work. You will need a certain amount of tiles or other materials with which the bathroom was lined. In the absence of the necessary supplies, you will have to deal with the original design using new materials.
Do-it-yourself toilet installation or with the involvement of professionals. Even a non-professional can cope with it, but in difficult cases, you will need the help of a specialist.

When overhauling the toilet, the toilet is installed last. It is easy to damage it when finishing, replacing communications or installing a heated towel rail.

Let's take a closer look at each.

Device selection

Models differ in the way they are connected, fastened, in the shape of the bowl and the location of the drain barrel.

The drain can be arranged parallel or perpendicular to the floor, or at an angle of 45°. For installation, two or four fasteners are used. Installation can also be carried out on special corners. The tank is screwed to the porcelain base or hung on the wall. The bases are divided into dish-shaped, visor and funnel-shaped.

Types of toilet bases

Dish-shaped have a horizontal shelf with a recess. Some models have no shelf, and the back wall is made with a slight slope.
In visor this bias is much stronger. This makes it easier to drain but makes the seat taller.
Funnel-shaped differ in that the hole is in the middle, and not from the edge, as in the two previous varieties. They are quite tall, but can be small, which is very important for.

Toilet installation height

The parameter is very important if the device is to be transferred from the sewer. The greater the distance to it, the greater the pedestal should be. The pipe leading to the sewer is at an angle. The larger this angle, the better the drain goes. It is possible to achieve the necessary inclination when extending communications only by raising the outlet.

The outlet may be in the floor. In this case, a flange with a lock is placed on it. The sewer pipe is inserted into the flange hole. The seal is a special wax ring. The lower part of the porcelain base is put on top of the flange cuff.

The tank is connected to the water supply with a flexible hose. A little tow should be wound on the metal thread, otherwise there will be a possibility of leakage.

When everything is ready, the tap is half open on the HVO riser. With a small leak, the connections are tightened. The water level in the tank is regulated by a plastic float. It can be done higher or lower. After making sure that there are no leaks, the tap on the riser is opened at full capacity.

You will need:

toilet bowl with cistern and fittings;
a set of fasteners and a flexible eyeliner;
eccentric cuff or corrugation;
adapter collar 123 × 110 mm (for connection to a cast-iron socket);
gas burner or building hair dryer (for disconnecting a cast-iron pipe);
tile adhesive or repair compound (for sealing a hole in the floor);
perforator or impact drill;
drill for concrete with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm;
tile drill 8 or 10 mm;
a set of wrenches and a hacksaw;
hammer and dowels;
tape measure and marker;
screwdrivers and knife;
silicone sealant and rags;
bucket and sponge;
WD‑40 multipurpose grease or equivalent (if required).

If you are installing a new toilet, and not changing it, proceed to the next step.

YouTube channel “Na da4e”

Turn off the faucet at the entrance to the tank or (if not) the faucet at the entrance to the apartment. Remove the flexible hose and then press the drain button. Take a bucket of water and quickly pour it into the toilet so that the remains of sewage inside the siphon. Use a sponge to remove water from the bowl.

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Unscrew the fixing screws of the toilet bowl, with which it is bolted to the floor. With a sharp knife, cut the sealant around the base of the bowl. Remove the corrugation from the outlet of the siphon and move the toilet away. And plug the sewer socket with a bag or rags so that the smell does not penetrate into the room.

If the plumbing is very old, the dismantling process will be more difficult. First remove the mounting bolts, spraying them with WD‑40 if necessary. Then, with a screwdriver, crumble the cement chasing along the perimeter of the cast-iron sewer pipe, preheating it with a burner or a building hair dryer, and remove the toilet bowl.

Sometimes it's easier to split ancient plumbing with a hammer or puncher, and then remove the pieces from the sewer pipe. If you decide to take drastic measures, do not forget to wear safety glasses.

Use a repair compound or tile adhesive to fill in the resulting depression and wait 6-12 hours for complete curing.

3. Assemble the cistern fittings

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Unpack the toilet and carefully read the instructions. Lay out all the details on the cardboard from the box so as not to scratch. Put on the threads of the drain and fill valves cone gaskets with a narrow part towards the holes.

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Reinstall the valves and tighten the plastic nuts by hand and then another quarter turn with a wrench. Make sure that the drain valve does not touch the walls of the tank (otherwise the float will stop and will not shut off the water when filling). To do this, check its course by hand or turn the tank over.

4. Install the tank on the bowl

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Place the largest rubber pad on the shelf and place the tank on top, lining up the mounting holes. Slide the conical washers on the bolts with the narrow part down and insert the fasteners into the holes.

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Install plastic and metal washers from below, and then evenly tighten the nuts by hand so that the tank stands up without distortion. Put the lid on the tank, insert and wrap the drain button by hand.

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Next, decide on the location of the new toilet. Move the bowl into place, try to sit down. To save space, you can press as close as possible to the wall, but not close - it is advisable to leave a gap of 2-3 cm between it and the tank.

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Align the drain with the sewer socket. If you use a straight pipe for connection, measure with a tape measure and cut off the required fragment. Remove the burrs around the edge with a knife. If you use a corrugation or an eccentric cuff - try on how they become.

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Remove a bag or rag from the sewer outlet. Lubricate the O-ring in the socket with soap or and insert the pipe into it, and then into it - the toilet drain. Install the corrugation or eccentric collar in the same way.

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On an old cast-iron sewer, first insert a special adapter collar with a diameter of 123 × 110 mm into the socket cleaned and lubricated with sealant. For reliability, you can additionally coat the joint of the plastic pipe with the cuff with silicone.

7. Attach the toilet to the floor

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Move the bowl to the provided place and mark the fixing holes on the floor with a marker. If there are hidden brackets in the toilet, circle the bottom of the perimeter, and then measure the desired distance from the edges according to the drawing in the instructions.

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Drill holes in the floor. First, tile with a special drill for ceramics, and then with an appropriate drill. Remove dust and insert dowels into the holes.

Apply the silicone in a snake around the perimeter of the toilet, not reaching the edge of 2-3 cm, and wait about 20 minutes until it hardens a little.

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Then install the plumbing in place and, putting plastic washers on the mounting bolts, wrap them with a key. Do not overdo it so that the ceramic does not burst - it is better to tighten the fasteners later if necessary. Put decorative caps on the bolt heads.

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Fill the joint of the bowl with the tiles with sealant. Remove excess with your finger or tissue and let dry. It is better to use transparent silicone, because the white one turns yellow and gets dirty over time.

If there are pipes under the tiles or you can’t drill through the tiles for other reasons, you can simply glue the toilet onto the silicone.

To do this, the surface must be perfectly flat, clean and dry, and before using new plumbing, you need to wait at least a day until the sealant completely hardens.

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Using a flexible hose, connect the filling valve fitting to the tap next to the tank. Position the hose so that it is not kinked or strained. Wrap the nuts with a wrench, but not very tightly - they only press the rubber gaskets.

9. Install a toilet seat

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Gather the hardware. If the mounts are labeled "left" and "right", do not confuse. Insert the rubber bushings into the holes, place the eccentrics on top and adjust the distance between them according to the width of the toilet seat holes.

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Tighten the fixing bolts with plastic washers from below. Put the decorative pads on the rubber part of the eccentrics and install the cover on them until it clicks.

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Open the tank faucet, wait until it is full, and make sure that the valve shuts off the water supply. Press the drain button. Make sure that there is no flexible connection on the nuts, and that the drain is connected to a pipe or corrugation and the sewer outlet.