What is the ceiling in the bathroom. The ceiling in the bathroom - the ideal combination in the interior (105). Option #2 - Styrofoam tiles

What ceiling to make in the bathroom? This question always comes up when repair work. We will tell you which Decoration Materials for the ceiling can be used in the bathroom, given the features of this room.

Today, there are a lot of finishing materials - wallpaper, cork, plaster, tile and much more. But when choosing which ceiling is best done in the bathroom, you need to remember about some of its features. Let's look at them in more detail. The first feature is dampness. Because of this, the selected materials must be moisture resistant.

Moisture resistant materials for finishing the bathroom

When taking a shower, you can easily direct the jet at the walls or ceiling - unsuitable material will begin to dampen due to exposure to moisture and eventually lose its properties. Besides, good ceilings must withstand water from above if, for example, your neighbors inadvertently flood you. The second point - the ceiling should be easy to clean. Ideally, choose materials that can be wiped down with a damp cloth once a week.

Nobody canceled the aesthetic requirements for finishing materials. The ceiling should fit into the design of the room and be in harmony with the overall interior of the apartment. Well, we have considered the main requirements that the selected ceiling covering must meet, and now let's study what materials meet these requirements.

When choosing how to make the ceiling in the bathroom, many people prefer to paint or. These options are quite profitable and easy to implement. The only caveat is that the purchase and use of such materials will be beneficial only if the walls are perfectly even. This will allow you to abandon the preliminary leveling of surfaces, which will save you from unnecessary expenses and loss of time. At the same time, any materials for leveling the surface in the bathroom must also be moisture resistant, which automatically increases their price.

Moisture resistant ceiling paint

Other features of the use of paint or putty include:

service life at necessary care will be about 10 years (provided that you are not flooded by neighbors);
lack of original colors - but this is solvable, you can simply combine several colors with each other;
it is quite easy to remove dirt from such a ceiling, but the darkening that forms on the paint over time is almost impossible to remove;
but you can easily update the coating by painting it with a different paint;
one of the disadvantages of such a ceiling is the inability to hide communications.

So if you choose what is more practical and reliable to make the ceiling in the bathroom, then painting or putty is not the most the best option.

When deciding what to make the ceiling in the bathroom, the choice often falls on PVC panels. They are moisture resistant and very reliable, easy to install, do not require additional finishing easy to care for - just wipe them with a slightly damp sponge. In addition, the design of the ceiling allows you to install Spotlights. But even here it was not without its drawbacks, because nothing is perfect.

Choice of PVC panels

Installation of panels involves the formation of joints between them, where dirt will subsequently clog. True, this problem is easily corrected by regular cleaning. Much worse if you have a bad one in your bathroom. ventilation system which is at risk of mold.

If profiles were installed on a metal frame, then it may rust. True, you can buy more expensive galvanized profiles - this can protect against corrosion. Also, such an update of the ceilings is a rather long process.

Slatted ceilings are installed on a pre-assembled frame. Laths are long panels made of plastic, aluminum or steel. When choosing between these materials, it is better to stop at aluminum - this material is moisture resistant and is not afraid of rust. Another plus of slatted ceilings is a huge variety of colors, in addition, products can be chrome-plated, gilded, or patterned. The second plus of such a finishing material is the ease of installation - the ceiling is assembled as a designer. Choosing how and from what it is better to make the ceiling in the bathroom, you can safely stop at this option: inexpensive and high quality.

Installing a slatted ceiling

True, slatted ceilings also have some disadvantages - be sure to consider them when choosing a finishing material. Also, like PVC panels, slatted ceilings have a problem - over time, dirt clogs between the slats. If dirt is not removed in time, dark stains may appear on the material, which are very difficult to remove. Slatted ceilings are not suitable for all interior styles. Therefore, you will need to think in advance how and with what you want to decorate the bath, and only then decide on the ceiling.

Drywall is another finishing material that you can use. How to make a ceiling with plasterboard in the bathroom? First, use metal, not wooden frame. In addition, drywall must be moisture resistant, which includes protective additives that protect the material from the appearance of fungus.

In order not to make a mistake when buying, study the packaging of the material - it should have the abbreviation GKLV (moisture resistant plasterboard sheet).

Finishing material GKLV

This material allows you to beautifully decorate the ceiling. For example, competently beating the location of the lamps or making. Another advantage - drywall allows you to hide the unevenness of the walls, wiring and pipes. At the same time, the service life quality drywall is about 10 years old.

But there are also some downsides. For example, buying and installing drywall sheets is not a cheap pleasure. After all, it is necessary not only to mount the frame and GKL, but also to treat the surfaces with putty, primer and paint. The second disadvantage is labor costs, especially if you plan to carry out the work yourself.

If you use real mirrors, then such a ceiling will look incredible, in addition, such a design will help to visually enlarge the room. This is a definite plus for a small bathroom. True, this is also the main disadvantage - the rather high cost of the structure.

Mirror ceiling in the bathroom

Difficulties lie in the installation of the frame, which must be reinforced in order to withstand the mass of mirrors. In general, it will not work to mount such a structure without special knowledge and tools; it is best to use the help of a specialist. But even a mirrored ceiling cannot be called ideal.

For example, the lack of mirrored ceilings can be called what they create a large number of glitter, which may not be to everyone's liking. The second problem is the difficulty with care. Washing products located at a height, and even at a horizontal level, is quite difficult. Here you can not do without a ladder.

Stretch PVC ceilings can be called practically ideal option. The main advantage of the design is that the material does not get damp, it will save the walls and floor if you are flooded by neighbors from above (1 square meter material withstands about 100 liters of water). You just need to drain the water and install the ceiling in place, while the material will not lose its properties. The second advantage is that the material will fit into any design. On sale you can find dozens of colors: plain, multi-color, with drawings, you can even make photo ceilings. In general, the main thing is to choose.

Stretch PVC ceiling

Well, now for the disadvantages:

It will not work to stretch the ceiling on your own - for this you need skill, and most importantly, special equipment.
Brittleness of the material - any sharp object can leave a hole in the material. Therefore, when cleaning ceilings, be careful.
To prevent this from happening, you should not choose a coating that is too cheap, it can be made using low-quality materials.

What do designers tell us when choosing a ceiling for a bath?

As we have already said, first think over the design in the bathroom and choose the right color. For example, if you want to make a room in classical style, you can install white false ceilings or mount a plasterboard structure by painting it with paint. Choose the right fixtures - lighting can, for example, be made spot.

Textured ceilings are suitable for visual expansion or reducing the room. Such structures can be created using slatted or tiled ceilings. You just need to pick suitable color and size. But for the bath big size best to choose multilevel ceiling from drywall. A round and slightly convex ceiling with built-in lighting fixtures looks good.

We told you how to make a bathroom ceiling: what materials are best for this room and what designers advise when choosing a design. It remains only to go to the store to buy.

Wood as a finishing material for a bathroom is rarely chosen, fearing a combination of this natural material with high humidity. And maybe in vain, because from time immemorial baths, as well as ships, were built from wood. The tree can easily cope with such a load, the main thing is to do everything right, and then the wooden ceiling in the bathroom will delight for a long time, creating a unique microclimate in the room and delicate fragrance for which he is so highly regarded. Such a ceiling will look as organic as possible in a bathroom in a wooden house, but wood lovers can also please themselves with this element in interior design in brick and other types of houses.

Selection and preparation of wood

The durability of the future ceiling depends primarily on what material will be chosen, so this issue must be approached with all the attention. There are several key factors to consider when choosing.

Type of wood. For rooms with high humidity, it is better to prefer such types of wood that are resistant to moisture, such as Finnish spruce, teak, pine, cedar or alder.
Cutting place. It is recommended to use a board made from the core of the tree, rather than from the edge - such boards can crack faster, but they are more water resistant, which is important for a bathroom or bath.
The size. Boards should not be too bulky. It is best if the finishing material is no thicker than 25 mm.
The presence of a special water-repellent impregnation. If the purchased material is not impregnated, you can hydrophobize the material yourself, on the spot, using resin or oil impregnations. Expensive, but most effective way impregnation will be the complete immersion of wood in a container with a water-repellent composition, due to which a waterproof layer is formed inside the wood.

Which mounting method is best?

Wooden ceilings can be hemmed, suspended or coffered, but in the case of rooms high humidity the most competent choice would be a suspended ceiling. It will allow you to hide the wires, but most importantly, it will provide the necessary ventilation for this material in order to reduce exposure to steam and high humidity on wood with reverse side ceiling.

The suspended ceiling provides for a crate, which is mounted 5-10 cm below the ceiling itself. And already on this frame the finishing material is mounted.

Preparatory work

In order to properly finish the ceiling in the bathroom, you must first take care of the insulation, hydro and vapor barrier of the room.

First, a vapor barrier material is laid between the beams - this can be a polymer membrane, a heater with a layer of foil or a vapor barrier film. It is fixed with a construction stapler or paper clips.
After that comes a layer of insulation. It is laid so that it is flush with the beams. It can be ecowool, expanded clay, mineral or glass wool. If the bathroom has an attic or residential floor, then insulation is not required, but in this case, you need to take care of sound insulation.
From above, everything is closed with a waterproofing layer.
For fixing, a shield is made of slab, lining or bars.

Vapor barrier - a necessary material for arranging the ceiling in the bathroom

After that, you can install the crate and sheathe the material chosen for cladding. Thus, in order to perform all its functions reliably and for a long time, the ceiling device must be a sandwich of several layers.

Lathing and installation of the ceiling

Before proceeding with the installation, about a week in the bathroom, you need to bring all the finishing material from wood. This must be done in order to equalize the humidity in the material and the room.

To create a crate, slats 20 x 40 mm are fixed at a distance of about 30-40 cm from each other. The crate should be located 5-10 cm below the ceiling. In order for the ceiling to be even, use a level and a thick fishing line, which is pulled in the middle and on both sides of the ceiling. Further, slats are attached along this fishing line, making sure that they do not bend it.

After that, the ceiling itself is mounted to the finished crate perpendicular to the rails. This is done using self-tapping screws, which are best fastened into the grooves. You can also use high-quality glue, screws or decorative nails instead of them as fasteners.

After mounting the ceiling, having endured a couple of days, it is necessary to walk on it with varnish with protective properties.

Repair in an apartment is a difficult and costly task, which is why it is so often compared to a fire. But often the difficulty lies not in the repair itself, but in the choice of design and suitable materials especially when it comes to complex spaces like the bathroom.

How to make a choice

It's no secret that the bathroom is the most complex room in the apartment. Aggressive environments and frequent temperature changes force a more careful approach to the choice of materials. Especially when it comes to the ceiling, because the steam rising up will test it for strength every day. Therefore, it is important to clearly understand what criteria the ceiling in the bathroom should meet. And what material is better to choose, especially if the repair is done by hand.

There are three main points to consider when choosing:

Ceilings in the bathroom should only consist of moisture resistant materials. And the point is not only in the clubs of rising steam, but also in the fact that leaks from neighbors most often occur in this room.
Ease of maintenance. AT small room it is very difficult to clean, so it is better that no dirt or stains remain on the ceiling.
aesthetic component. The concepts of design and beauty are not alien to the bathroom.

At first glance, it may seem that considering these points, it has become even more difficult to choose. But actually it is not. The range of materials that meet these criteria is huge, and even such complex design tasks as visual magnification rooms, or matching a certain style. You can choose how to finish the ceiling in the bathroom, and, simply, after consulting with experts, the main thing is that it looks appropriate and corresponds to the main idea.

Types and materials

To help you make the right choice, let's focus on the most popular and practical bathroom ceilings. And remaining unbiased to the end, consider both the cons and the pros.

Suspended ceiling

In fact, it is a complex composite structure made of drywall and metal profiles. First, a frame is assembled, on which drywall sheets are sewn.

Important: bathroom ceilings are assembled only from moisture resistant drywall. When choosing sheets in a store, you should look for the GKLV marking. Unlike plain sheets, they are green.

Such a ceiling in the bathroom can be created for a specific design solution, and even be multi-level (if the height of the overlap allows). And the use of moisture-resistant paints and putties when decorative trim, allow you to wash the ceiling without fear, even with the use of detergents. In addition, the design false ceiling makes it possible to hide all communications and unsightly overlaps under it.

Choosing bathroom ceilings drywall constructions are considered first. Largely due to the variety of forms that can be created. But it is undesirable to do it yourself. It is better to turn to the masters who know all the nuances and subtleties.

The ceiling in the drywall bathroom, like any painted surface, sooner or later needs to be updated. Even the most durable paints, in a constantly humid environment, lose their appearance.
If you decide to make repairs with your own hands, then in addition to a large set of tools, you will need time and at least some skill.
Suspended ceilings for the bathroom are not only difficult to technical terms but also very costly.

PVC panels

If the budget for repairs is strictly limited, then the option with PVC panels seems to be the most acceptable. All you need to make a ceiling in the bathroom is aluminum profile, and the plastic panels themselves.

Tip: bathroom ceilings are made only on the basis of aluminum profiles. It does not corrode like metal, and does not deform like a wooden beam.

Plastic panels present a choice of many colors and patterns, in addition, you can combine different shades or textures. Add to this the fact that plastic panels are not at all afraid of water, whether wet cleaning, or leakage from neighbors.

It will not be difficult to make such a ceiling in the bathroom, even with your own hands. It will take a minimum of time and effort.

Plastic panels of poor quality, quickly lose color. It is necessary to carefully choose the manufacturer, and it is better that this is advice from friends or acquaintances, and not from the seller in the store.
If over time, one of the ceiling segments was damaged, then all plastic panels will have to be changed, since the new batch will be visually different from the previous one.
Joints of PVC panels, the most difficult place. They often accumulate dirt and are difficult to wash.

Wooden lining

Wood - topical material at all times and for any premises. And bathroom ceilings are no exception. The lining creates a feeling of a steam room, and can be in harmony with almost any option for finishing walls and floors. When you don’t know which bathroom ceilings to choose, lining is a win-win material that is relevant at all times.

Important: if wood is used in the bathroom, it must be treated with impregnations and varnish to avoid mold and swelling.

wooden ceiling in the bathroom you can fearlessly wash and he is not afraid of contact with sharp objects. And even if there is damage, it can be easily removed. No less important is the fact that it is quite possible to build such a ceiling with your own hands without resorting to the services of craftsmen.

Wooden lining is a material that requires surface coatings and impregnations, which is reflected in the final cost of a bathroom ceiling. And there is no need to talk about the environmental friendliness of such a tree.
The joints between the boards, as in the case of PVC panels, are very difficult to clean and wash.
Poor quality lacquer coating, under the influence of steam, it will quickly peel off and restoration of the entire ceiling will be required.

rack ceiling

Slatted ceiling for the bathroom can be considered one of the most popular options. It only consists of aluminum materials which makes it resistant to corrosion. Slatted ceilings for the bathroom are assembled as the children's designer, so you can easily do it yourself.

Aluminum rack panels are mounted on special holders, so that they can be replaced at any time without dismantling the entire structure.

Slatted ceilings for the bathroom have a monotonous look, and are not suitable for every design.
Due to the use of aluminum materials, the price of such a structure is very high.
The joints between aluminum panels, as in the case of PVC, are very difficult to clean.

Painting

Painting the ceiling in the bathroom is probably the most common type of finish, which even an amateur can do with his own hands. It's not only easy, but also cheap. Especially if the floor slabs are relatively even, then a minimum of putty will be needed. But, despite the cheapness of such a coating, it is better not to save on the quality of the paint. It should be not only moisture resistant, but also immune to temperature extremes.

Important: before puttying and painting the ceiling, it must be primed to avoid mold under the paint layer.

Even the most expensive paint absorbs dirt over time, which cannot be washed off and repainting will be required.
minimum originality.
Recessed lighting cannot be installed in painted bathroom ceilings.

Conclusion

As can be seen from all of the above, bathroom ceilings can also be varied and original. The main thing is to approach their choice with all responsibility, so as not to do new renovation Every year. The bathroom is a room of increased complexity and the approach to its repair should be appropriate.

Wood is an excellent material both from an ecological and decorative point of view. It is especially good for lovers of antiquity, rural flavor and just those who need a ceiling in the bathroom in a wooden house.

They make a wooden ceiling in the bathroom from a clapboard - a board, on one side of which a groove is cut, on the other a comb protrudes - a tongue. Assembly is carried out using the tongue-and-groove method on a crate previously fixed to the ceiling of the bathroom. After assembly, they are coated with a water-repellent composition, varnish, wax.

Let's just say: in modern conditions tree is not the best best material for finishing bathrooms. Maybe, optimal solution you will find in the article on our website

How to make a ceiling in the bathroom with your own hands,

For a wooden ceiling in the bathroom, the lining must be selected very carefully: it should not have through cracks or rotten knots, wood “lint” on the surface.

In order for the ceiling from the lining in the bathroom to serve for a long time, it must be well ventilated. Especially the side that faces the main ceiling. Craftsmen manage to lay air channels in the walls of the bathroom, starting at the very floor and exiting between the lining of the lining and the ceiling.

Ceiling from lining in the bathroom

O cassette ceilings, for the design of which boards made of wood or its derivatives (chipboard, fiberboard, etc.) are used, can also be found in the article on our website "".

What do people say about the ceilings in the bathroom from the lining?

In general, the “woody” solution does not arouse enthusiasm among the current generation. The main argument against: the tree absorbs moisture well and then evaporates it for a long time. The bathroom will be constantly high humidity.

But not everything is so sad. It is necessary to use larch lining and varnish it in three layers, - someone tells Chip_AC on one of the forums. From contact with water, steam, larch only improves its qualities. But another problem arises: "At the price, this option will definitely be more expensive than tiles."

We do not need such lining in the bathroom!

It was not possible to find reviews about any special goodness of washing in a bathroom with a wooden ceiling, about the charms of wood texture. Modern forum users approach the issue from a utilitarian position and are even annoyed that the paint does not fit well: if it is not possible to ensure a constant temperature and humidity, then the boards “walk” and the paint between them crumbles.

But there is a solution to this problem: interior decoration- tinted compositions Pinotex Interior "and" Workers also painted us with tinted water-based emulsion! Looks really great! I recommend!"

So why harass the lining, if then paint it with a tinted water-based emulsion?

About prices

The question of prices has already been raised above. They depend on the type of tree.

Pine lining (grade A) of the European standard costs 400 rubles. per sq. m
Birch lining - 260 rubles. per sq. m
From aspen - 550 rubles / sq. m
Linden - 700 rubles / sq. m
From larch - 1128 rubles / sq. m
Canadian cedar - 2487 rubles / sq. m

painted bathroom ceiling

The prices are above the market average: only high-quality lining of the highest grades goes to the ceiling in the bathroom.

The arrangement of a modern bathroom in a wooden house requires the use of special construction measures to protect architectural elements from the negative effects of moisture. In this case, any technological error can be critical and cause irreparable damage to the structure. It is advisable to provide a bathroom device in a wooden house at the design stage. During the calculations, it is necessary to take into account the large weight of the bathroom and, therefore, to strengthen the elements of the floor. In addition, to improve the operating parameters of the premises, an effective natural or forced ventilation system should be made, the issue of water supply and sewage disposal should be resolved.

Estimated maximum load on floor beams should increase to 460 kg / m2, to ensure such indicators, beams of increased cross section are taken. In addition, they should be located slightly lower than the beams in other rooms. And another very important feature wooden houses- significant shrinkage. The arrangement of the bathroom, unlike residential, can be started only after the complete completion of shrinkage, and this requires at least a calendar year.

The bathroom is the place where everything is concentrated engineering systems at home, some of them require periodic Maintenance. This complicates the tasks for the builders, they must isolate the pipelines in such a way that they do not restrict access to them for inspection and maintenance.

What are the features of the installation of elements to ensure safe and long-term operation of the bathroom?

Name of elements	Description and technical requirements
	On pipes with cold water condensation forms, negatively affecting all surrounding wooden structures. To reduce the amount of condensate for water supply, it is recommended to use only plastic pipes, they have a lower thermal conductivity compared to metal, which minimizes the amount of condensate. Pipes must not come into contact with wooden walls, they should be mounted taking into account the possible ingress of condensate. If possible, plastic water pipes should be thermally insulated with special polyurethane foam tubes.
	Special requirements are put forward for tightness. the main problem- under all wooden buildings there must be ventilation for natural ventilation. This means that in winter time there is a chance of freezing sewer pipes, to prevent this phenomenon, they must be buried in the ground. One more problem. Sewerage works without pressure, leaks are difficult to notice due to the small amount of water flowing out. But that doesn't make leaks any less dangerous. To increase the service life wooden buildings All pipe connections must be completely sealed.
	The bathroom has a high relative humidity. Under such conditions, open contacts electrical wiring quickly oxidized, the resistance at the junctions increases and the temperature increases. The degree of heating can become critical and cause a fire in wooden structures. According to the requirements of the PUE in such places, the connection of electrical cables should be as reliable as possible, all limit switches are covered with a layer of tin.
	Wooden structures must have reliable vapor and waterproofing, it is advisable to use modern materials allowing elements to "breathe". Due to this effect, the moisture that has fallen on the tree can evaporate naturally.
	A must-have for every bathroom wooden houses. Some developers do not pay due attention to ventilation, they believe that heat losses increase significantly because of it. Regulations require at least 5 air changes in bathrooms. This means that the entire volume of air must be replaced five times within an hour, such an indicator can only be provided by high-quality ventilation.

These special requirements must be taken into account during the arrangement of the bathroom in wooden buildings.

Step-by-step instructions for arranging a bathroom

For example, we will consider the most difficult option arrangement: the premises are old, it is required to dismantle the walls, ceiling and floor, revision of engineering networks. With new construction, some operations can be skipped. Old finishing materials from the walls must be removed to the tree, the floor must be cleaned and the old ceiling dismantled.

Step 1. Remove the entire decoration of the room up to the skeleton of the house, check the condition of the wooden structures, if any problem areas fix them. The ceiling must be released to the floor beams, and the floor to the log.

Step 2 On the draft floor make the screed with a semi-dry mortar, the screed plane should lie at the level of the lag. A semi-dry screed has a relatively low weight and good heat-insulating performance, which is why it is recommended to use this material for work. The leveling of the surface is carried out by the rule, the log surfaces serve as beacons. Allow time for the material to dry.

Step 3 Cover the screed with two layers polyethylene film 200 µm thick. Along the perimeter of the walls, it is necessary to provide inversions with a height of about 15–20 cm. It is better to make inversions with a margin, and then carefully cut the film than to allow the solution to come into contact with wooden elements. The film is fixed using an ordinary stapler.

Practical advice. Other modern materials can be used for waterproofing. We recommend using film for two reasons: it has the lowest cost, and in terms of efficiency, the material is in no way inferior to expensive analogues.

Step 4 Attach damper tape to the walls. It is needed to compensate for the linear expansion of concrete screeds. If it is not installed, then there are great forces between the walls and the floor. As a result, the screed can swell and crack. The thickness of the tape is about 4-5 mm, it is also fixed with a stapler.

Step 5 To increase strength concrete screed place the armature.

It is necessary to use only construction reinforcement of a periodic profile. To raise the bars above the floor, you can use segments plastic pipes height within five centimeters. Lay the bars once across the room, and the second time along the top. The dimensions of the reinforcement must correspond to the dimensions of the room, the distance between the bars is approximately 20–25 cm, the diameter of the bars is 8 mm. To prevent the bars from moving during the pouring of the screed, tie them together with wire. You do not need to knit often, it is enough to fix each rod in three places in a checkerboard pattern along the reinforcement surface.

Practical advice. To increase the strength of concrete, you can additionally use a chain-link mesh and put it on reinforcing bars. But professional builders consider it a waste of time and money. The strength of the mesh is much lower than the strength of building reinforcement; it does not have any noticeable effect on the final performance of the concrete screed. Especially since it lies on top of the armature.

Step 6 Make holes for the sewer, insert temporary mortgages into them. In the future, they are removed and permanent sewer pipes are installed.

Step 7 How to fill the screed? This is a simple process, but some inexperienced builders make gross mistakes - they make a screed in two layers. The reinforcement is poured first and the beacons are placed on the second and the surface is leveled. This is explained by the fact that it is difficult to install beacons on the reinforcement, especially if a chain-link mesh lies on top of it. Doing so is strictly prohibited.

Why? Firstly, the adhesion values between two different layers are much less than the strength of a monolithic layer. Secondly, in most cases, the reinforcement is located in the middle of the screed, and in this position it does not work. The reinforcement should be located at 1/3 of the layer thickness, it does not matter if it is above or below. But not along the axis of symmetry. Only in this position does it maximally compensate for bending forces by binding the concrete layer into a single monolithic structure. Conclusion - you need to correctly place the reinforcing layer in height, and pour the screed immediately over the entire thickness. It is more difficult to make lighthouses with fittings, but you do not need to pay attention to this.

If the installation of beacons interferes with the chain-link mesh, then they will have to be done in two stages. At the first, throw the solution in heaps a little above the grid, give time for the solution to solidify. After setting, increase the height of the poured solution under the beacons to the required height. For beacons, you can use metal or wooden slats. The bathroom is small, there should be no problems with the exact installation of beacons. First mark on the walls zero level floor, for these works you need to use a water or laser level. Reiki are set along the marked lines, the position is controlled by the level.

Step 8 cook cement-sand mortar and make a stitch. If the bathroom is small, then in this case, you can use a semi-dry mixture. Alignment is carried out by the rule; after completion of work, the slats can be removed or left in the solution.

The work on preparing the floor base for the slab is completed, you can proceed to wall and ceiling decoration.

Step 1. Treat the walls with an antiseptic and a primer, it will increase the adhesion of the surface to the plaster. It is better to process with a pneumatic spray gun, the jet moves at high speed and penetrates into all recesses.

Practical advice. If the bathroom has a main wall, then it is recommended to insulate it with pressed mineral wool at least five centimeters thick. Mineral wool is glued to the wall special glue(can be glued for ceramic tiles), which ensures a tight and durable fit.

Keep in mind that you should not allow a gap between the insulated surface and the insulation. Air moves freely in the gap, and this sharply reduces the effectiveness of insulation. To increase the stability of fixing the mineral wool, nail it to the wall with long nails; pieces of sheet metal can be used as large hats.

Step 2 Front surface mineral wool finish with waterproofing mastic to protect against moisture. Mineral wool has a lot of advantages, but also two significant drawbacks. With an increase in humidity, thermal conductivity increases sharply. In addition, it dries poorly, and prolonged contact of wet mats with wooden structures becomes the cause of putrefactive processes.

Step 3 Insulate the ceiling of the bathroom according to the same algorithm. If two rows of pressed mineral wool sheets are required, they should be staggered to cover the joints.

Step 4 To vapor barrier the ceiling, finish it with any foil material. The overlap between the vapor barrier strips must be at least ten centimeters; adhesive tape is used for complete sealing. Carefully and very high quality isolate the ceiling, during the adoption water procedures affects him maximum amount pair. Wrap the vapor barrier on the walls, the width of the ceiling should be approximately 10 cm.

Step 5 Start mounting a metal mesh on the walls under the plaster. The mesh is fastened with a large pneumatic stapler or carnations.

Grid for plaster. Lighthouses installed. A photo

Important. Be sure to go around the corner with the mesh, and do not make joints in this place. Due to this technique, the likelihood of cracks in the plaster in the corners is excluded.

Between the mesh and the wall, make a gap of several centimeters, use various improvised gaskets.

Step 6. Install beacons. It is easier to do this with the help of wood screws, a metal rail and laser level. If you do not have it, then the beacons can be set with an ordinary plumb line.

With an even rule, determine the most convex place on the surface, for this, apply it to the wall in several places. This parameter sets the thickness of the plaster layer.
Screw a self-tapping screw under the ceiling, attach an ordinary plumb line to it and screw the lower self-tapping screw according to its level. Under a flat rail, fix the hardware in one line. If you have enough practical experience plastering work, then instead of a plumb line, beacons can be set to the usual level.
Do the same operation at the opposite corner of the wall.
Screw the metal bar on the screws, use special metal plates to fix it.
Pull the ropes between the two extreme rails and install all the remaining beacons along them. The distance between them should be 20–30 cm less than the length of the rule.

Step 7 Check Position metal mesh, it should not touch the surface of the walls, when such areas are identified with pliers, bend the wire. According to the electrical wiring diagram, fix the wiring boxes, sockets and switches on the wall. After the wires are pulled inward, the cases should be closed, this will prevent the solution from getting inside.

Step 8 Mount electrical cables, while strictly comply with the requirements of the EMP. If you do not have enough knowledge, then you need to seek help from a professional electrician.

Walls can be plastered without prior installed boxes, but then under them you will have to hammer and close up special holes. If you do all the work yourself, then you should not create unnecessary problems for yourself. At the same time, put mortgages under water sockets, water supplies, etc. Mortgages are needed for all communications that are available in the bathroom.

Step 9 Check the correct installation of the elements, everything is in order - proceed to plastering the walls. This can be done in two ways: traditional manual using a column and modern mechanized using a hopper bucket. The first method is very labor-intensive, the second allows you to perform work much faster and at the same time minimize the amount of labor-intensive work. Ordinary plastering has long been known to everyone, we will tell you how to work with a hopper bucket.

Important. Before preparing the solution, sand should be sifted through fine sieve. Otherwise, there will be problems with the mechanism for applying the mixture to the wall.

Remember that the thickness of a single layer of plaster cannot exceed 1.5 cm - when a thick layer dries, deep cracks will definitely appear. If your plaster is thicker in some places, then you will have to do the work in two stages.

Cover the floor with cardboard or plywood scraps, protecting it from liquid plaster. Thick layers of dried plaster will be removed from the floor screed without problems, and if you level it with your feet, then the coating will have to be cleaned for a long time.
cook plaster mixture. For one part of cement, add 4-5 parts of sand, water as needed.
Take a portion of the solution with the hopper bucket and throw the first contact layer about one centimeter thick on the wall.
Allow time for a slight hardening of the plaster and, as a rule, remove the excess.

This completes the first stage, you can continue only the next day. During this time, the solution will harden a little and excess moisture will evaporate from it. If cracks appear - not a problem, the second layer will close them. Finishing layer also throw plasters with a hopper bucket. Work in sections, immediately remove excess plaster as a rule. Pull it along the beacons from the bottom up, at the same time move it slightly to the left / right. Throw off excess solution back into the container with the mass. The small remaining recesses can be thrown over with a cell and again leveled with a rule.

Important. When working with the hopper bucket, be sure to use by individual means respiratory and eye protection.

If the walls are planned to be finished in the future ceramic tiles, then you don't need to do anything else. Before painting, the surface must be perfectly leveled with grout. This completes the plastering process, you can proceed to the next stage of arranging the bathroom.

Laying ceramic tiles

Start working only after concrete surfaces completely dry, it will take at least two days. Be sure to prime the dry screed to improve the adhesion coefficient.

Practical advice. Trimming tiles should be done at the invisible junction of the wall with the floor. As a rule, in the place where the bath will be installed, plumbing, washing machine and other equipment. If this option is not possible, then trimming the tiles is done symmetrically on both sides, this method somewhat complicates the process of laying the flooring.

After the tiles on the floor have dried, you can remove the crosses or wedges and clean the tile joints from glue. The seams are sealed with a special putty, match it to the color of the tile. In the same way, lay the tiles on the walls, carefully check their position.

The last stage of arranging a bath is finishing the ceiling. You can use cheap plastic panels, they are not afraid of moisture, easy to install and quite durable. In addition, there is a huge choice in the implementation various kinds panels, which makes it possible to create any interior in the room. Plastic panels are fixed to metal frame. If you want to make a frame from wooden slats, then they need to be impregnated at least twice with effective antiseptics.