How to glaze a balcony with an aluminum profile. How to make a balcony glazing with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction. Warm glazing of balconies

Full glazing of balconies and loggias has long been the norm in the construction of apartment buildings. This can be seen in the photo of new neighborhoods, but in old houses you have to do all this work at your own expense. Moreover, not all buildings built in the last century are designed for the weight of modern PVC frames, which have the maximum level of thermal insulation among all possible options. This problem becomes especially relevant if it is required to glaze a balcony in Khrushchev. After all, the base plate in houses of this type has serious restrictions on the weight that it can withstand. Therefore, many owners have to make do with cold aluminum frames and partial insulation of the parapet.

Glazing with extension

Since most typical balconies in Khrushchev have a small area, the option of glazing with the removal of frames beyond the plane of the parapet allows you to slightly increase the usable volume of the finished room. In this case, the frames are carried out beyond the parapet by 25–30 cm, which results in a window sill that does not reduce the area of ​​the balcony. Frames can be taken out either only in the front part, or from all three sides of the balcony.

The takeaway frame is usually made of a metal corner and is attached to the parapet by welding or anchor bolts. After insulation, it is sheathed with the same material as the rest of the structure. But in the case when the take-out window sill is attached to the railing, it is possible to use only light aluminum frames that have a low level of thermal insulation and protect the room only from precipitation.

Most balcony glazing companies have photos of several options for such glazing in their catalogs. Therefore, even if you want to do all the work yourself, you can choose a ready-made option that fits a particular balcony or building facade.

It is also possible to carry out the entire height of the balcony, that is, from the floor level. Such a design requires careful calculation of its mass, since the outrigger base plate may collapse. This is especially risky in cases where the balcony on the floor below is not glazed, as this creates, albeit small, but reinforcement.

Frame glazing

In order for the balcony in Khrushchev to withstand more weight than is provided for by the technical parameters of the remote plate, you can create a metal structure that will not be attached to the balcony itself, but to the bearing wall of the Khrushchev.

The result is a box, the weight of which falls on both the load-bearing wall and the remote plate. Therefore, it becomes possible to fully insulate with the installation of PVC frames or warm aluminum frames. Photos of such a frame frame can be found on sites dedicated to the insulation of balconies.

The frame can be made both with and without extension - flush with the vertical plane of the balcony railings. But in any case, this option requires additional costs for material and work. This significantly increases the total cost of loggia insulation, as well as careful calculations, which should take into account the parameters of the remote plate and the total weight of materials, including sheathing and insulation.

Last floor

Finishing the balcony on the top floor

Since the balconies on the upper floors of the Khrushchev houses are open-air and do not have any canopies, when they are glazed, a canopy is required. It should have approximately the same operational parameters as the roof - that is, provide reliable thermal insulation and protection from precipitation.

In addition to adding to the overall cost of the glazing work, the canopy also adds to the load. Therefore, its device requires either the creation of a small frame, or a reduction in the mass of other materials used in the work.

If you plan to fully insulate and create a warm room on the Khrushchev balcony, then it is best to use a full-fledged frame even without taking out the frames. After all, the slabs of the balconies of the upper floors are usually more susceptible to destruction due to strong winds and precipitation. The visor is insulated, like any other roof, and it can be sheathed with slate, ondulin or profiled sheet. Such balconies look quite nice, especially if the overall design of the house is taken into account in their exterior decoration. You can verify this by looking at the photos in the thematic catalogs.

Cold and warm glazing

In addition to differences in design, standard frame options used for glazing balconies in Khrushchev are divided into cold and warm.

cold glazing

View from the inside

This type of glazing is used when it is not required to make a warm room out of the balcony or if there are any restrictions, for example, financial or technical ones.

Among the advantages of this option are the following points:

• Small mass. Cold aluminum frames can be installed without additional reinforcement of the balcony extension plate. They also do not require the creation of a supporting frame.
• Variety of design options. The use of an aluminum profile allows you to create sections of various shapes and sizes - both sliding and standard tilt-and-turn.
• High level of protection. The presence of sealed gaskets prevents dust and precipitation from entering the balcony. In addition, condensation does not collect on such windows.
• Wide range of spray options. The profile of aluminum window frames can have any color and shade - you just need to select its photo in the catalog when placing an individual order.

But cold glazing also has disadvantages:

• First, it is the lack of thermal insulation. On balconies with aluminum glazing in winter, the temperature is not much higher than outside - only 5-8 degrees.
• Second, freezing. In severe frosts, the mechanism responsible for opening the window may freeze. It is also possible to freeze the sashes to the frame itself.

Warm glazing

An example of a finished balcony - roof installation

Full insulation of the balcony involves the use of frames with double-glazed windows or with special insulating gaskets inside the structure. These can be windows made of PVC profiles and aluminum with a thermal break.

This type of glazing has several advantages:

• Warm. Modern frames for balconies are no different in terms of thermal insulation from those installed in apartments. Therefore, they allow you to create a full-fledged small room on the balcony, the temperature of which in winter is maintained at the same level as in the whole house.
• Reliability. Warm frames with proper care and observance of operating conditions can last for several decades, protecting the balcony and apartment space not only from the cold, but also from any other external influences, including street noise.
• Variability. The PVC profile, as well as aluminum with a thermal break, allows you to create sliding and folding balcony frames, including the presence of vents and any other auxiliary windows in the sashes.

This type of balcony attracts attention from afar.

With all the pluses, warm frames have two drawbacks, which often become an obstacle to their use:

• The weight. All types of warm frames, due to the design features and the use of double-glazed windows in them, are quite heavy, and not every balcony can withstand them. Therefore, warm glazing requires the creation of an additional reinforcing frame to reduce the load on the remote plate.
• Price. Warm frames are much more expensive than cold ones. In addition, the total price of the work increases due to the need to create a frame.

Conclusion

Modern technologies make it possible to glaze balconies with both light and heavy frames. Moreover, when it comes to balconies, it is possible to use several design solutions that allow the installation of heavy frames. Such options provide a partial increase in the volume of internal space or the creation of a visor, without which it is impossible to glaze the balcony on the top floor.

Photos of any options for constructive solutions for glazing can be found in online catalogs or even just when studying urban landscapes.

It looks like it's open there all over the wind, but it looks like it's there. Because in summer you can still sit there with a cup of tea or hang up your suit to dry. But in autumn and even more so in winter, they will have the same rainwater and snow cover as in the yard. What's the tea here?

So sooner or later the idea is: "Shut down and isolate!" In addition, do-it-yourself balcony glazing is a viable task.

Heating windows require a responsible approach and compliance with all requirements. You can read about it in this article.

A bit of theory

Before deciding on such a responsible step, you must make sure that the status of the balcony panel allows you to create your plans.

Since the chips are deep and, moreover, cracked, they can warn with their ominous air that it is unlikely that the old plate will withstand the new, rather complex design.

Of course, it is possible to warm a balcony with a problematic base, but only with the use of specialized companies that will perform the necessary engineering calculations and strengthen them.

If everything is in order and you are confident in your abilities as a renovation builder, it is still up to you to decide what types of glazing work best for your family and their budget. All expenses must be calculated in advance, so there will be no problems in the future.

Consider all the possible options offered by the market.

The most common of the Soviet times and the most economical way to glaze a loggia or balcony are wooden frames with a single glass.

They are usually used with brackets and bolts.

Everything is easy and accessible. This is a plus. But even there limitations:

• The tree requires special attention and regular handling.
• A balcony or loggia closed in this way cannot serve as full-fledged living quarters. Because in the cold season the temperature is almost zero. But you are protected from wind, precipitation, dust and ruins from the upper floors. And using wooden euro windows, although it will provide peace and warmth, is the most expensive option for glazing.

The next popular method is PVC frame with single glazing or double glazing with double glazing.

With the right approach to the purpose and the materials used, you can get additional living space.

And it's rarely redundant. And if you don't just want to iron, but also insulate the balcony, then opting for double glasses would be the best choice.

PVC frames are more durable than wood.

They are much easier to worry about: they are often wiped down enough, dusted and lubricated fittings and seals. It is important that these balconies look more aesthetically pleasing. Plastic or metal-plastic frames are optimal in terms of price-quality ratio. The choice of windows is not too difficult, but you will have to spend some time on it.

The next way to improve the appearance of the apartment and more comfortable is glazing with aluminum frames.

This method is much more expensive than the previous one.

Glazing balconies - it's easy to do it yourself

Its advantage is the low weight of the structure, which in some cases allows not to strengthen the bearing part.

Low values ​​​​of thermal insulation do not allow it to become a full-fledged way of heating rooms.

In severe frosts, ice can also form on the frames.

The slight airtightness makes hand glazed glazing using aluminum frames an absurd task to keep out street noise. This also applies to distant balconies.

Among urban residents, who often have not only sunlight but also daylight, the popularity of glassless glazing is becoming popular.

It can be made on the basis of existing fences or parapets and is completely panoramic.

The latter option is very attractive for organizing a winter garden. At the same time, it will not allow you to change the balcony for some place to store household items or just old things. Colorless glazing is the least suitable for self-realization.

When choosing for one or the other glazing method and, in fact, the type of frame, he can proceed to the next step

Preparatory work

As a rule, do-it-yourself balcony glazing consistently includes the following work:

• demolition of old buildings,
• sizing,
• strengthening of load-bearing structures (if necessary),
• installation of a new frame and direct glazing,
• thermal insulation,
• exterior and interior decoration.

Regardless of the variety of future loggias or balconies, you need to know what size before they are made or ordered.

For this purpose, the distance from the parapets to the ceiling is measured with a measuring tape.

Then for balconies - from one corner to another and behind the loggia - from wall to wall. In this case, if there is glazing, the entire structure must be removed before the measurement is removed, otherwise it may not be true. If you place a new fence, this must be done to avoid distortion when installing the entire structure.

Installation of wooden frames

If you decide that it is best to clean a log or a balcony with a tree, then such frames cannot be ordered, but also on your own.

Another economical option is to find or buy used products.

All wooden parts must be pre-treated with special protective equipment. The first is a wooden box with a profile of 50 × 50 mm. The rods are attached to the fence or parapets, to the ceiling, on the sides.

The lower part can be unscrewed immediately. The distance between the beams is frozen. The assembly frame is then attached to the box. This is done with simple screws.

After that, you can start working. The outer envelope is most often made with plastic plates or sides.

They can be all colors. After that, insulation is carried out: the outer fence is covered with foam, mineral wool or other insulation. Interior trim that hides the insulation layer gives the room a beautiful look.

PVC profile frame installation

If you prefer modern plastics and then glaze your own loggia or balcony, there are some shades you need to know.

Depending on the heavy weight of the structure, before installing the frame in the hole, it is necessary to remove the hinged door and remove the double-glazed windows from the blinds. Extension, glass frame, glazing can be unpacked.

Then you need to check that the subfolders are located at the bottom of the frame. If it's not done, it's in the grooves. Special mounting plates are attached at a distance of approximately 15 cm from each of the corners of the frame.

Then it is better if the assistants, frames without goggles and flaps are open in the hole and attached to each other in a uniform form with self-closing screws.

It is necessary to check the correct installation by level. Attached frames are attached to the ceiling, walls and parapets with an anchor. Then you need to hang guards to fill in all the cracks. After that, double glazed windows can be installed in the places where they are installed and hang them. The rear window frame is installed.

Since self-service pvc balconies are new, we suggest watching the following video to better understand all the important points.

For glazing a loggia or balcony, most can be forced by everyone.

We have tried to cover the main points of material selection, assembly shades of the most common frame types, insulation and interior finishes. We hope our article is helpful.

Balcony glazing

I decided to glaze the balcony with aluminum profile windows, as the “cold” glazing of the balcony was quite suitable.

And the price compared to plastic windows is two times less.

Aluminum windows installed independently. And the source of inspiration for installing an aluminum window with your own hands is the price of installation.

It was almost half the cost.

What happened, all the nuances of installation, which I had to face when installing an aluminum profile, when glazing a balcony, is shown below with photographs.

When ordering a window, indicate the size of the opening less than a couple of centimeters on the left and right (for mounting foam), and from below minus 2-2.5 centimeters for the window sill.

One important point, in order to simplify installation during manufacture on an aluminum profile on the reverse side (for their installers), marks are applied with a marker (left, right, top, bottom, or indicated by arrows).

Ask them to do the same for you, because in the absence of these, you can easily mix up the profiles and you will have to disassemble the entire structure and reassemble it, since the frames will not fit into place.

It took about 4 hours to glaze the balcony with an aluminum profile (with smoke breaks).

The balcony was glazed earlier, it took a lot of time to dismantle the old, rotten, wooden frame.

We start the installation with the assembly of the aluminum frame (photo 1,2,3,4), twist the profile with self-tapping screws (included in the kit), do not forget to glue the self-adhesive seals in the corners.

1Aluminum frame joint seal.

A photo. 2 Glue the seal.

3, 4. Assemble the aluminum frame.

We install the assembled aluminum frame immediately on the window sill (leveling it), fasten the top, side profile and bottom to the anchor bolts, fill it with mounting foam (photo 5, 6, 7, 8).

Photo 5 Mounted frame.

A photo. 6, 7 We fasten the aluminum frame to the anchor bolts and pass through with foam.

A photo. 8 Installation of the aluminum frame: 1- aluminum profile; 2 - window sill.

The glazing of the balcony with aluminum profile frames is almost complete, it remains to insert the frames and adjust the latches.

When installing frames in an aluminum frame, 99% of the latches in the frames will not align with the striker and adjustment will be required.

First, we adjust the window block, using a hexagon in terms of level (photo 9), it should be vertical.

9 Adjustment of the aluminum frame window unit.

Then we adjust the reciprocal plate (photo 10), release the bolt in the middle of the reciprocal plate with a hexagon and move the bar to the required height, the latch lock is adjusted in the same way (photo. 11) Installation and adjustment is completed.

10 Height adjustment of the latch striker of the aluminum frame.

A photo. 11 Aluminum frame latch adjustment.

It remains to fix the ebb outside and install a mosquito net (if ordered).

The ebb is attached to the pressure washers for metal, we pass the place of contact with the frame with a sealant.

12 Attaching a mosquito net to a window.

The mosquito net, when glazing balconies with aluminum windows, is fastened from the inside, a special guide profile is used for fastening, which is also fastened with pressure washers (photo.

Modern balconies are a place of rest and storage, so they must be warm enough and insulated from the weather. But the services of designers and builders are quite expensive and not always of high quality, so you can do the glazing of balconies with your own hands. The main thing is to understand the type of material.

Cold vs Warm: What's the Difference?

In glazing, the terminology "cold" and "warm" is often used.

This indicates the temperature that the frames must withstand. Wood is more environmentally friendly, but it does not retain heat well. Therefore, for low temperatures, aluminum and plastic options are advised.

Balcony glazing is not only the installation of glass directly, but also the construction of a strong support for them, so try to do everything as efficiently and reliably as possible.

For cold glazing, conventional structures are used, and for warm glazing, double frames and often insulated floors are used.

The difference between the options is a few degrees, but at the same time, you will have to spend much more in price.

Aluminum profile

One of the most popular options. With the help of aluminum, you can make remote frames (with an increase in additional space) and generally visually do without frames.
Even with the cold method, it is warm and dry on the balcony, and for the price it is one of the cheapest options.

Immediately decide on the number of frames and the method of opening: open or move.

It depends on the hardware you buy. It is advised to combine these options with fixed ones, then you can easily wash them and ventilate the room. Proper installation will also provide insulation from noise and cold.

This design is quite strong, and aluminum frames do not take much light.

Service life - about eighty years.
The glasses themselves can be mirrored, plexiglass, bulletproof and armored.

Step by step installation

Let's start with the choice of manufacturer and accessories: stop only at high-quality options with certificates.

• Measure the exact size of the balcony, draw a sketch and calculate the amount of material.
• Make sure the frame is strong and secure, make sure it doesn't need to be strengthened or rebuilt.
• If you decide to dismantle old glass, make sure that no one gets hurt below.

  Set up barriers.

• We seal the glass with adhesive tape. We remove the old visor.
• Again we take measurements and make sure that the calculations are correct.
• We remove the railings or close them with a steel apron.

• We install the frame on a concrete barrier or beams, fixing it with anchors (we attach special plates to the walls, screw bolts from below and from above).
• Fill with mounting foam.
• Ebb installation.

• Installation of sashes (we check everything by level).
• Adjusting the hardware.
• We seal the joints from moisture and unnecessary gaps.

The glazing is completed, as a last resort, contact the specialists to check and correct your work.

PVC frames

PVC is mainly suitable for warm glazing option.

They provide tightness and sound insulation. This option is suitable for you if you are going to make the balcony a full-fledged living space.

They do not need special care, only regular cleaning. The smooth surface looks very aesthetically pleasing.

wooden frames

This is the most environmentally friendly option, but there is a stereotype about their fragility.

Glazing and decoration of balconies. Frame installation. Mounting Features

There is indeed a problem with wooden frames that they dry out and crack due to improper use.

But it is enough to cover them with the right varnish and periodically tint.

The tree looks really stylish and cozy in the interior, it retains heat well if airtight compounds are used during installation.

The tree can be easily painted in any color: see that it looks aesthetically pleasing. Here, by the way, is a clear example of responsible and not very owners.

Do-it-yourself balcony glazing is easy

Glazing a balcony or loggia is not an easy task, which often requires the cooperation of craftsmen.

Before glazing a balcony or loggia, you need to prepare for this process.

Receipt

If you have an apartment that does not have a balcony, with a loggia, then your task is very simplified. After all, the supporting panel of the balcony protrudes from the wall of the building on three sides, so the structure simply cannot withstand the heating process.

But don't give up. Today, there are a large number of materials on the market with which balcony glazing can be made with a sufficient degree of safety for you, as well as for the balcony itself and for the neighbors below.

So let's get started.

First check the structure - the slab and balcony rails should be in good condition. This means that there should be no damage or other imperfections in the structural elements. Otherwise, the errors must be corrected.

It should be understood that balcony glazing is not only protection from wind and precipitation.

This creates a complete space that can be used for different purposes. Therefore, this problem should be taken full responsibility.

Before choosing the material and type of construction, it is necessary to measure those parts of the balcony that need to be glazed.

The next step in preparing a balcony for its transformation is choosing the right material and type of construction.

If winters in your area are severe enough and temperatures often drop below thirty degrees, consider insulating your balcony and double glazed window to choose a 2D or 3D camera.

If you do not have such frosts, but you will still heat the balcony, you will need a two-tone design. You can choose a double glazed window.

When you take into account all the nuances, you can order windows that will use a glazed balcony or loggia.

Learn more about preparing to work from a do-it-yourself glazing balcony. You can find out from the video.

Implementation Methods

There are several ways to unlock a balcony or loggia:

1. Cold glazing.
2. Panoramic view.
3. Sliding.

cold glazing

The first method is suitable for those whose plans should not use the balcony as a home.

This glazing is able to protect from wind and various types of precipitation, but not cold.

Popular version of double glazed windows

This method involves the use of wooden or aluminum frames with one glass.

Three types of valves:

1. Rotary.
2. Flip and drop.
3. Sliding.

The cheapest wooden frames with hinged doors, but are prone to rusting. In addition, they should be regularly updated with coloring pages.

At the same time, a properly processed tree can take a long time.

And in this case, doing all the work with your own hands is quite simple.

Panoramic glazing

As for panoramic glazing, it includes the installation of a frameless glass railing at the height of the balcony. At the same time, the fence seems to be completely missing. Although in some cases frames are still installed.

Panoramic glazing provides the attractiveness of the balcony, as well as the penetration of more light into it.

Panoramic glazing uses glass treated with metal oxide. The thickness of this material is 6-8 millimeters. These two indicators determine the sufficiently high strength of the product.

In addition, glass has good thermal insulation properties, which keeps the heat in the balcony.

Panoramic design scrolls can open like a book, lift up, or move with a roller mechanism. Doing this kind of glazing with your own hands is a little more difficult than in the previous case.

sliding glazing

solid glazing

Sliding glazing is used if the balcony surface is relatively small and the other option is simply unsuitable.

Although it depends on the aesthetic tastes of the apartment owners. In this case, you can use panoramic glazing and aluminum frames.

The roller mechanism allows you to open the door indoors. But do not decide what to do to start working on your own without consulting with experts. This is due to the fact that the use of sliding balcony glass is sometimes impossible.

For more information on how to iron balconies and logs, see the video.

Work materials

Today we use different materials for glazing balconies.

Frames are wooden, plastic or aluminum structures. It is also possible to glaze with an exclusive frameless glass plate.

The cheapest material is plastic. Plastic frames retain heat well on the balcony.

In addition, they are equipped with sound insulation and excellent seals.

This material does not require regular maintenance and looks attractive. However, such frameworks also have weaknesses - from an environmental point of view, they are very complex and dangerous.

Operating procedure

The picture is exacerbated by the fact that the popularity of plastic windows has caused the release of a huge number of fakes on the market, which, together with the high price of very low quality.

Therefore, be very careful when choosing this product.

Aluminum frames are much lighter than those previously described, making it easier to do the glazing yourself. In addition, this design is completely safe from an environmental point of view, and also has a high degree of sound insulation and thermal insulation.

There are two types of balcony glazing using aluminum profiles:

1. Cold.
2. We are warm.

The first includes the use of one glass, and the other - the presence of double glazing with a heat-insulating insert.

If we talk about the advantages of aluminum frames, one should take into account their low weight. But the aluminum product has a rather high cost.

The most favorable view of the wallet is the glazing of the balcony with windows in wooden frames. However, such glazing will not protect against cold and noise.

Balcony glazing

Comfort and toilet

Thus, we have come to the stage of the work itself.

Once you have collected all the necessary items, you can start.

• First, double glazed windows need to be rolled out of the frames, and then remove the frame from the frames. A special metal stand is attached to the lower part of the frame and fasteners.
• The frame is then inserted into the desired hole.

  Glazing of balconies and loggias

  You can do it yourself without calling the owner if you have a couple of helpers. This is because the frame is quite large and cannot be mastered on its own.

• When a frame is set to a level, it must be defined. For this, special screws are used that are screwed into the fasteners.
• All available frames are collected in one structure.

  It is important to constantly check the correct installation using the design level.

• Frames fix anchors on the ceiling, walls and parapets. The slots are filled with special foam. Also, don't forget to install the visor.

When the upper parts are completed, the installation of double glazed windows and sleeves is carried out. At the end, neatly outside the balcony, but inside there is a threshold.

conclusion

Balcony glazing will protect this design not only from wind, rainfall or autumn leaves, but also from the occasional leakage of debris from the upper floors.

And this will give the balcony a certain aesthetics.

Fenster SPb has put together 5 simple tips that will help you order glazing for your balcony a little cheaper.

So, here are 5 great free tips that will save up to 10,000 rubles on balcony glazing:

1. Choose for glazing inexpensive window designs, such as aluminum sliding windows or inexpensive plastic class “B” windows.

Inexpensive glazing options do not mean that low-quality components are used in their manufacture, on the contrary, all window systems are manufactured in compliance with GOSTs, have quality certificates and manufacturer's warranties.

Do-it-yourself balcony glazing: step by step instructions

Savings are achieved by simplifying the design and using inexpensive domestic raw materials in the manufacture.

2. Use fittings of domestic manufacturers in glazing.

Due to the growth of the dollar and the euro, the cost of imported fittings increased by 30-40%.

As a result, the difference, from one opening window, can reach up to 2000 rubles. Domestic fittings may be inferior to the imported analogue in design, ease of use, while the differences in the guaranteed service life are minimal.

3. Maximum simplify the design, i.e.:
- to minimize the number of imposts (achieved by increasing the width of blind doors), the number of opening doors;
- use fewer frame connectors if possible (use one large window frame instead of two small ones).

4.Order glazing out of season, for example in winter.

In winter, there is a decline in orders for glazing balconies, installing windows, therefore, in order not to lose customers at all, window companies lower prices or, with a general increase in prices for raw materials, do not raise prices for manufactured products to the last.

5.Follow promotions and discounts.

For example, in our company, when ordering windows from three pieces, there is a 25% discount, and if you also order the interior decoration of the balcony, then a 50% discount on installation will be added to the discount on windows!

When installing windows, we do not recommend saving on accessories for glazing: drainage, platbands, mounting foam.
We do not recommend ordering glazing from dubious window companies offering unrealistically low prices. These may be fraudsters or firms using low-paid and poorly skilled workers from neighboring republics.

The consequences of non-observance of balcony glazing technology, such as: leaks, jamming - mashing of opening doors, cracks in glass, condensate, are difficult to eliminate and require significant financial costs.

Repair in full swing and it came to ennoblement of the balcony? Of course, the modern diversity in the service market makes you tense. Everyone wants quality and cheap. How about do-it-yourself balcony glazing? Let's figure it out together.

The first stage is preparation.

You can't do without it. It is important that the balcony does not collapse under the weight of the structure, the windows do not fly out at the first wind, and the sheathing does not come off as quickly as it is being installed.

Technical analysis is one of the components of the initial actions. An assessment of the design features, the percentage of dilapidation (accident) of the dwelling - these parameters will allow us to conclude whether the design of the house is designed for the fact that there will be an additional load in the form of glazing on the balcony.

After making sure that all this will definitely not collapse, we proceed to the additional strengthening of the parapet. Depending on the future load, reinforcement is carried out by means of foam concrete blocks or metal.

What material to choose? The answer depends on your goals and the technical capabilities of the house. Universal, suitable even for extremely dilapidated balconies, will be metal.

How to do this is detailed in the diagram. We only note that a strong metal structure “ties” the parapet and is able to take on the main load of the glazing system.

If your balcony is strong and wide, then you can use foam blocks. This material also serves as excellent thermal insulation. But such a design requires reinforcement with reinforcement. Otherwise, the desired effect will not be.

After the preparatory work is completed, you can without fear deal directly with what, in fact, everything was started.

Stage two - the choice of design.

• Wooden euro windows have a long service life, so you should not worry that they will rot or dry out under the influence of external factors.
• Aluminum frames are cheap, lightweight and are most often used for cold glazing.
• If we take PVC, then they have a wide range in the field of additional functions - noise insulation, thermal insulation, imitation of a certain style in architecture, etc. Of course, they are heavier than aluminum and are used for warm glazing.

How is the lighting in the room? In addition to frames, it is worth paying attention to glass. Do you have a sunny side, but do you want to make a game room on the balcony? So that the delicate skin of the baby is not exposed to ultraviolet rays, sun protection glasses are used, which are covered with a film using a special technology.

How energy saving glass works

Such glass absorbs almost 99.9% of radiation. Or maybe the balcony is the future greenhouse? To do this, tinted glass is used, which prevents the sun's rays from penetrating through the glass and creating a "magnifying glass" effect.

Colored glass, stained-glass windows are ideas for specific styles of both interior and exterior. Well, and, finally, energy-saving windows. At the factory, a thin layer of metal is applied to the surface of the glass, which retains heat inside the room.

Glass, construction, strengthening - all the preparatory issues are covered, the decision is made. It remains only to understand how it can be glazed at all. To do this, we move on to the next step.

Video - what is and what are the possibilities of energy-saving glass:

Stage three - the choice of glazing method.

The diversity is amazing, just look at the neighboring house. What you will not see there, but we focus on the ways.

a) With removal. The internal space becomes wider due to the removal of the window profile (relative to the main fence). The increase is insignificant - 20-25 cm. A window sill can be placed on such a frame.

b) Frameless. In fact, it turns out a panoramic window without vertical frames and horizontal partitions. Lots of light is a plus. The problem with care (for example, washing) is a minus. The design is quite durable, so you should not worry about bad weather.

Stage four - installation of the visor.

This should be done before the glazing system is installed, so that later you don’t have to think about how to stick it there so that it doesn’t come off. With the help of ordinary dowel-nails we fasten it to the ceiling.

After the visor is fixed, you can start glazing, but first, anchor plates should be fixed on all sides except the bottom.

Video - installation of a loggia with a visor:

Stage five - step by step instructions for glazing.

Of course, the balcony should be freed from everything that used to be there: chairs, flowers, linoleum, tiles, old trash, and so on. The issue of strengthening was touched upon earlier, so we will omit the description of this procedure.

Installation of wooden windows.

Correct installation according to GOST

Frame installation. The bars that serve as the basis are pre-treated with a sealant (but only the mounting surface). Further, a wooden structure is constructed along the perimeter using mounting dowels.

Window installation. Frames must be glazed, as glass can simply break. Installation is carried out in the following sequence: frontal structure - side elements.

After - sealing of seams is obligatory with the help of sealant and polyurethane foam. When everything hardens (at least a day), you can glaze. But first, all grooves must be treated with silicone sealant. The glazing beads, with which the glass is fixed, must firmly press it to the frame.

Video - how to glaze a balcony with wooden windows:

Installation of an aluminum frame.

1. We eliminate all unnecessary, namely: we remove all opening elements, so as not to complicate our lives, we remove the glazing, as in the previous case.
2. Mounting plates are attached to the frame (with metal screws), with a pitch of 700 mm or more.
3. Installation of the frame in the opening, followed by alignment (horizontal, vertical, plane).
4. Attaching mounting plates to surfaces with dowels.
5. We hang the sashes, return the glass.
6. All holes and gaps are eliminated with mounting foam.

Video - how to install an aluminum frame with your own hands:

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

The modest dimensions of most apartments force their owners to use each square as rationally as possible. The most attractive option for increasing the useful space of a home is glazing a balcony. In the process of its modernization, you can get a comfortable place for a summer vacation or a full-fledged living space, available all year round for comfortable use. Do-it-yourself glazing of a balcony is quite realistic if you have at least elementary building skills.

Glazing types

At the initial stage, it is worth deciding on the nature and scale of the work being carried out. Depending on the time range in which you plan to use the balcony, you can choose a cold or warm option for glazing the loggia.

1. With a cold version, the balcony can be glazed using frames with a single glass. In this case, you can create a comfortable room for use in the warm season at minimal cost.
2. With warm glazing, window frames include at least two panes of glass. This option also involves warming everything for year-round use. In some cases, the balcony becomes part of the adjoining room, not even separated by a door. There is no need to specify that it is necessary to glaze the balcony with such an expansion of space as efficiently as possible.

By profile type

Balcony windows may differ, which serves as the frame of the entire structure. They can be:

• Wooden. This type of glazing is the most familiar, affordable both in price and in complexity for doing it on your own. The main disadvantages of this type are that the frames must be periodically painted to protect them from rotting. With warm glazing, it is problematic to wipe the double frames twisted together.

• Made of aluminum profile. Lightweight, durable, reliable, unaffected by the external environment. Cons - only a rectangular room can be glazed. With warm glazing, special thermal inserts will be required, since the aluminum profile conducts cold and heat well.
• Plastic. The most popular type of balcony glazing at present. With high-quality insulation of the entire loggia, it allows you to create comfortable conditions there at any time of the year. Metal-plastic windows are easy to operate and maintain, have good indicators of durability, tightness and sound insulation. Among the disadvantages, in addition to the high cost, can be called a solid weight, which will require serious calculations in the design and, if necessary, strengthening the construction of the parapet and the entire balcony as a whole.

Frameless glazing

Aluminum profiles, which play the role of a frame in this design, are practically invisible. These frames are very easy to use. But there are also enough shortcomings: very high cost, do-it-yourself installation is almost impossible due to the complexity of the work, poor thermal insulation. In addition, over time, the glass in the structure begins to rattle due to a decrease in the rigidity of the frame.

Remote glazing of a balcony can be classified as a separate type, in which the usable area increases due to the removal of window blocks beyond the plane of the parapet. Naturally, such glazing requires major changes in the design of the entire balcony.

When choosing an option, one should take into account the design of the parapet: if it is made of brick or concrete, then all glazing methods are available. A simple metal balcony railing will have to be strengthened if it is planned to install plastic double-glazed windows. If the glass is from floor to ceiling, then the parapet is removed.

Do I need to get permission?

Before you start glazing the balcony with your own hands, you need to take care of obtaining permission for these works. Installing windows on a balcony is not considered redevelopment, but is equated to it. Therefore, complications after changes made to the design of the loggia are inevitable. At a minimum, in the absence of the necessary approvals and permits, it will not be possible to sell the apartment. For unauthorized glazing, a fine threatens, after which it will be necessary to legitimize the changes made or to dismantle them.

In addition, an increase in the total weight of the loggia can provoke its complete or partial collapse, which will lead to much more unfortunate consequences. So take care of permission and approval, as well as instructions for upgrading your balcony better in advance. This is quite long and tedious, but necessary.

Stages of balcony glazing

To begin with, let's highlight the general points that will be relevant for glazing a balcony of any configuration with any type of frame:

• The balcony is freed from all unnecessary items. All coatings are removed, up to concrete, dust and dirt are removed.

• Necessary changes are being made in the design of the loggia. This may be strengthening the base with a metal frame, followed by leveling with a screed. If necessary, the metal parapet is additionally reinforced with corners or wooden beams. And when glazing with metal-plastic windows - even with aerated concrete blocks or bricks. If a remote structure is planned, then a frame made of metal triangles welded to the parapet serves as a support for it. In any case, one should take into account the loads that the loggia will experience after the changes made, including wind effects.

• Window frames are carefully measured. If the frames are made to order with or frameless glazing, then all the necessary calculations are made by the manufacturer's measurers. You can only make wooden frames for cold glazing yourself, or limit yourself to buying ready-made ones.

All work on leveling the surface must be carried out before mounting the frames. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient to produce them, there is a chance to damage the windows during operation.

It is better to postpone insulation and final finishing until the moment when the balcony is glazed. Delivery and installation of frames may take a certain period of time. Moisture that has entered the balcony at this time will spoil the interior finish and worsen the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation.

Step-by-step instructions for installing wooden windows

Since wooden windows are most often installed with your own hands from beginning to end, we offer you instructions for glazing a balcony using a wooden frame.

Do-it-yourself balcony glazing is one of the works that even a very skilled home master cannot be recommended to do alone. The point is primarily in the strength of the balcony slab: it may simply not withstand the weight of additional structures. Therefore, before glazing a balcony, it is necessary to consult the DEZ, BTI, or, better, call a specialist from a glazing company for advice, and in accordance with his verdict, and make further plans.

The only exception is the glazing of the balcony with the Provedal aluminum profile - it is very light and practically does not give any additional load. But Provedal does not have thermal insulation properties: you will not get additional living space. In addition, you will have to buy a profile for yourself at a retail price, and the cost of installation is only 8-10% of the cost of professional work. Considering also that the pros will prepare the mounting elements on special equipment, it will most likely turn out that a home-made balcony-visited will come out more expensive and worse than a custom one.

The glazing of the loggia does not require such careful measurements and strength calculations - its sidewalls transfer the load to the load-bearing wall well. If the house itself is in a satisfactory condition, the loggia can be glazed using any of the methods described below.

But in all cases, at least one assistant is needed - an assistant insurer. Although the described glazing methods do not require climbing work (i.e., it will not be necessary to hang from the outside), you still have to bend over and hang over the parapet. So, in addition to a construction tool, you will need safety equipment to glaze your balcony.

Precautionary measures

All work on the glazing of the balcony must be carried out with a safety belt. It is better to use a sports one - it is lighter and cheaper than an industrial one. The industrial one is more reliable and durable, but you don’t systematically do steeplejack work.

The halyard of the belt should be about 2.5 m long. Too short a halyard will complicate the work, and if it is too long, if you suddenly fall off, the jerk can be dangerously injured. The halyard carabiner, and the entire belt as a whole, must withstand a load of 400 kg. If the value of the load is not indicated in the certificate for the belt, or there is no certificate at all, such a belt should not be taken.

The safety line must be securely fastened. To do this, for the duration of the work, drive an anchor rod with a metal collet into the main wall by at least 150 mm. The head of the stud is in the form of a ring with a forming thickness of at least 8 mm; stud body diameter - from 16 mm.

It is necessary to screw the stud into the collet until it stops and tightly by inserting a powerful screwdriver or pry bar into the ring. At the end of the work, the head of the stud, so as not to interfere, is cut off with a grinder flush with the wall.

Cold and warm glazing

Cold glazing is made with single panes in lightweight frames. Such a balcony in the summer is suitable for gatherings, and in the winter - under the pantry for food. However, it is impossible to save on a supporting frame for a cold balcony: the windage of the glazing does not decrease, and the glazing frame carries mainly the wind load.

For warm glazing, the dew point must not be allowed to shift inside the balcony. Otherwise, the resulting condensate will negate all your efforts to expand the living space, and may cause the entire apartment to become damp. Also, the penetration of the dew point into the space between the panes is unacceptable; on a balcony outside the contour of the building, it is doubly difficult to ensure this. In order to drive the dew point out for sure, four conditions must be met:

• Make good heat and waterproofing of the parapet and floor. Any gap or thermal path from outside to inside will cause condensation to form.
• Use window frames with double sealing and double glazing. If wooden frames of traditional design are used, provide a rubber double seal for hinged ones, and carefully close the gaps with putty or liquid nails in the blind.
• It is imperative to provide for adjustable natural ventilation: use metal-plastic windows with a ventilation damper, and with wooden ones in the parapet, arrange a ventilation valve to the outside.
• Ensure air circulation between the living room and the balcony: install an exhaust fan in the window overlooking the balcony, and make a ventilation grill at the bottom of the balcony door.

Glazing types

Panorama

made in residential buildings of the elite class. Often glazed from top to bottom. Such glazing is frameless. Along the top and bottom, guides are let in, into which glass enters on special fasteners. Sections of a glazing can be sliding, oar and folding.

The seeming "airiness" of such glazing is actually very heavy: the glass is placed especially strong and thick, with a transparent or tinted coating that reflects infrared (thermal) radiation. Panoramic balcony glazing requires the highest professionalism with a serious production base and cannot be done independently.

Aluminum profile

Glazing on a special Provedal profile is also often called panoramic: it gives an overview not much worse than frameless. Promedal glazing allows you to make both hinged and sliding windows. Glazing sections are also assembled on the upper and lower rails: first, vertical racks are installed in them, and then the frame is inserted into the resulting opening with locks and latches.

The weight of Provedal glazing is no more than 20 kg per linear meter, depending on the height of the section and the thickness of the glass. Therefore, it is possible to glaze hanging balconies with Provedal without preliminary calculation of strength. This is especially important if offset glazing is required, see below. The cost of Provedal on a balcony without distortion turns out to be 5 times lower than metal-plastic glazing with insulation.

Provedal glazing requires exact horizontality and parallelism of the upper surface of the parapet and the lower - the upper floor. Although the latch locks are adjustable, the adjustment travel is only 15mm. Taking into account the increase in skew during adjustment, a deviation from the horizontal and non-parallelism of the supporting surfaces is not more than 5 mm per linear meter. If it is larger, then in terms of labor and money spent on alignment, Provedal loses all its advantages, especially since the glazing is cold.

metal-plastic

Balcony glazing with plastic windows in terms of weight per linear meter - up to 40 kg - is average between an aluminum profile and a supporting frame. In most cases, it can be done on hanging balconies. Windows can be hinged / folding and sliding. Glazing is possible both warm and cold.

Installation of metal-plastic glazing is carried out on the parapet before installing the window sill:

1. End, corner and intermediate racks are installed from a 60 mm wooden beam or a special metal-plastic profile. Racks from a bar are attached to the parapet and the upper ceiling with corners on self-tapping screws. Their outer surface can be sewn up with a PVC strip.
2. Double-glazed windows are taken out of the windows, otherwise they are easy to split when removing frames. To do this, prying with a narrow screwdriver, pull out the glazing beads - their ends are made protruding before the final installation. When removing the double-glazed window, you need to carefully assemble its clamps.
3. The sashes are removed, for which the pin of the upper loop is squeezed out and pulled out with pliers; after that, lifting the sash, remove it from the lower hinge.
4. A dummy profile is attached to the bottom of the frame.
5. Complete anchor plates are inserted into the grooves of the frame.
6. Frames are inserted into the openings, checked for skew. If necessary, level with wedges.
7. The frames are fixed with self-tapping screws into the mounting holes of the anchors.
8. Insert double-glazed windows and sashes back, mount mechanisms, check operability.
9. The grooves are foamed, the window sill is installed, and the final finishing is done.

However, the wind resistance of metal-plastic glazing leaves much to be desired. In addition, a visor has to be made above a balcony hanging at least one corner without an upper ceiling. In this case, the labor intensity of metal-plastic approaches that for glazing on a supporting frame, but without it, the glazing does not perceive the vertical load and may be too heavy. If the parapet of the balcony is also weak, then it must be removed and a new one laid out in half a brick, which further increases the cost, labor intensity, and weight.

Extended glazing is well suited for narrow balconies and for balconies - greenhouses or conservatories. But for such glazing, a strong parapet is required, and with ordinary glazing, work on the installation of a durable visor is also required in addition to the upper ceiling. Therefore, it is better to glaze a balcony with a takeaway with Provedal.

Glazing on a supporting frame

This "Soviet" glazing is very laborious and weighs a lot, up to 80 kg per linear meter. The pipes with corners used for it in the old days quickly rusted and did not look very new either. But now interest in frame glazing is reviving:

• A welded steel frame is relatively cheap, but very strong and durable.
• Its painting with acrylic bath enamel gives the frame a look no worse than PVC and reliably protects against corrosion.
• The connection of the frame with a visor or upper ceiling in one piece allows you to distribute the weight load, so that such glazing can load a balcony slab even less than metal-plastic.
• Windows of any type can be inserted into the frames, from Old Testament wooden ones to the same Provedal or solid glass.
• Windows can be made very wide; they only bear the wind load.
• The problem of a weak parapet is eliminated. It is cut off, and the supporting frames are made integral with their upper and lower parts, and the lower one can be made lower than the previous parapet, and such a balcony will look no worse than a panoramic one. The lower opening is easily insulated with plywood or drywall with a foam layer - complex insulation work on a double crate disappears.

In general, if you have two strong and intelligent assistants, and you are used to working with your hands, glazing on a supporting frame may be the best option: in the end, you will get a full-fledged additional living space for at least 20 years.

The design of frame glazing is clear from the drawings. The drawing at the bottom right (vertical section) illustrates a case where an existing balcony railing is being used. This is possible if the length of the balcony does not exceed 3 m, the fencing bars are straight, with a section of at least 16x16 mm, in increments of up to 160 mm, with upper and lower longitudinal ties and sit firmly in the slab. Otherwise, it is better to cut off the old fence, and make the supporting frames in two parts, as described.

We glaze with our own hands

Sequence of work

If an old lattice fence is used, then its insulation outside and inside and the external decorative finish must be done before glazing. Interior decoration with the installation of a window sill is carried out after the installation of window frames. The top of the former fence must be horizontal; otherwise, it is also better to cut it off - alignment will cost more than the lower frames.

If the glazing is placed on a concrete or brick parapet, then its upper surface is leveled horizontally with cement mortar and an external decorative finish is made. Insulate and trim from the inside after installing the window sill.

Support frames, tube posts and outside corners

Pipe racks (highlighted in red in the figure) are necessary if the balcony is hanging and without a top ceiling. In this case, they will perceive most of the weight load from the glazing and transfer it to the visor. If the length of the balcony is more than 4 m, then another intermediate pipe rack is needed in the middle of its long side.

The outer corners of the glazing are filled with mounting foam, its excess is cut off and sewn up with strips of galvanized or roofing sheet, on self-tapping screws or welding. Welds are smoothed with a grinder, and the corners are painted with bath enamel, like the entire frame.

Bearing frames are made of steel angle 40-60 mm by welding. The seams are smoothed, the frames are painted with the same acrylic enamel. Paint after stripping with degreasing, like a bath.

The lower frames are made taking into account the skew of the balcony slab; the junction of the upper and lower frames must be horizontal. The top side of the side frames must be horizontal. If the upper ceiling is also skewed, the upper side frames are made according to the shape of the opening, but an additional corner is welded at the top so that the window opening comes out rectangular. The resulting wedge is sewn up with any suitable material - plywood, drywall, galvanized.

With a small, up to 20 mm, blockage of the walls, it is better to deepen the sides of the frames adjacent to them into the strobe. If the blockage is larger, work on the balcony should be postponed and the building should be inspected - perhaps it is emergency, and nothing can be done on the balcony.

Visor

A visor for a hanging balcony is a simple design (see fig.), but the most time-consuming and responsible. The canopy should protrude beyond the glazing by 150 mm on all free sides, based on this, its dimensions in the plan are determined. Height - 400 mm. The size of the corner is 40 mm.

Do not try to assemble the visor right away: it is too heavy and bulky. Even if there are three or four of you and you can lift it, you will have to work at the risk of not only your own life, but also the lives of passers-by below.

The visor is mounted as follows:

1. The rear frame is welded, and mounting holes for 10-12 mm anchor bolts are immediately drilled in it. The pitch of the holes in the upper crossbar is 400-600 mm. At the bottom, the step can be increased to a meter - the lower crossbar is pressed against the wall, and does not seek to break away from it. But there must be at least 4 holes along the length.
2. The rear frame is applied to the wall, set in height and horizontally with a level. Places for bolts are marked on the wall and the upper edge of the frame is beaten off. This work must be done by at least three people.
3. Mounting holes are drilled in the wall, anchor collets are installed in them. Exactly along the upper edge of the frame, a grinder with a circle 6 mm thick, a strobe 20 mm deep is selected.
4. The frame is attached to the wall.
5. Slopes and crossbars are cut along the length of the workpiece, their ends are cut to the required angle.
6. The slopes and crossbars are welded into the frame, then the outer crossbar is welded to them. When welding, it is necessary to control the horizontalness of the lower surface and the perpendicularity of the crossbars. Crossbars are welded first; their outer ends are supported with a piece of timber with plywood spacers.
7. The roof decking of the canopy is being prepared from galvanized or roofing sheet and blanks for sheathing the sidewalls. The seams of the flooring are ordinary roofing. The width of the flooring is with a margin of 20 mm.
8. The roof deck is installed; its upper edge is inserted into the strobe. The flooring is attached to the frame by welding along the contour. You need to cook with a 2 mm electrode at a current of about 60 A. Then the sidewalls are also welded.
9. The gate is sealed with cement mortar.

Note: the inner edge of the roof deck, placed in a strobe, guarantees against leakage along the wall for the entire life of the deck. When painting with bath enamel, it is more than 10 years.

Pipe racks

Pipe racks are needed if a welded visor is installed above the balcony. If there is an upper concrete floor above the balcony, you can do without them. Material - steel pipe of the same outer diameter as the angle: 40-60 mm.

From above, the ends of the pipes are attached to the visor by welding; for the lower ones in the balcony slab, holes with a depth of 15-20 mm and a diameter of 10-15 mm more than the diameter of the pipe are selected with a core drill. The pipes are finally adjusted to the size in place, with a grinder with a circle for metal. The pipe, tilted, is inserted into the hole and brought to the place by hand; perhaps a little tapping with a mallet. The pipe should not go tight into the thrust - hammering the pipe and pushing it, resting with all your might, is life-threatening! The groove around the end of the pipe in the hole is cemented.

Bearing frames

The upper load-bearing frames are made welded to the size of the window frames with a margin of 10-15 mm in width, and in height - with the same plus the thickness of the window sill. The maximum size for frames made of 40 mm corners is 1100x1500 mm. From a 60 mm corner, you can make frames 1300x1700 mm, but the weight of the entire frame will almost double.

The lower frames, if the old parapet is removed, are made for the remainder of the height, taking into account the skew of the balcony slab for the side ones. Between themselves, with a visor and pipe racks, the frames are connected by welding; with concrete surfaces - self-tapping screws 8-10x150 mm in dowels.

The pitch of holes for fasteners is 200-300 mm. More often it is not necessary to fasten: the concentration of stresses in the middle of the gaps between the screws can weaken the structure.

Note: it makes no sense to use expensive aluminum for TIG welding or self-tapping screws for the frame: the strength drops, and 3/4 of the weight of the glazing is provided by windows and insulation.

Exterior finish

External corners, as above, are foamed and sewn up with strips of sheet metal. Without foaming, condensate will settle in the resulting cavity, which will lead to corrosion of the frame.

The lower frames from the outside can be pre-sheathed with a metal sheet by welding. In this case, the influx of welding seams is removed with a grinder with a cleaning wheel before installing the frames. The second option for the lower frames is embedding from the inside with plywood or drywall. In terms of strength and reliability, both methods are equivalent.

First, the lower frames are mounted; ebb (teardrop) is laid on their upper surface. The upper frames are first attached from above and from the sides, and only after that they are welded to the lower ones. If you get a gap of more than 3 mm, a strip of sheet metal is inserted into it before welding. Welding is carried out outside. This has to be done leaning over, so insurance is a must. The shelves of the frame protruding inward are welded with tacks, it is possible along the entire length.

Before installing window frames, the entire frame, including the visor, is painted inside and out with acrylic enamel. Before painting, the frame must be cleaned with a drill with a metal brush and degreased with a nitro solvent. Kerosene and solvent for degreasing before painting with bath enamel are not suitable! You need to paint in clear, calm weather to avoid dust settling on the frame.

window installation

Before installing the windows, you need to put in place and attach 6 mm screws to the corners of the window sill. Grooves are cut out under the frame shelves protruding inward in the window sill. Three attachment points are enough for one window section for a window sill: from above, the window sill will be additionally pressed by the window, and from below it will be supported by an internal insulation crate.

Windows in the supporting frame can be installed of any type. Anchor plates for window frames are not needed: window frames are mounted on 6 mm self-tapping screws through the frame to the corners. Fastening step - 250-300 mm. The frames of metal-plastic windows are installed immediately assembled, only by removing the double-glazed windows. Alignment of window frames with wedges when installed in a supporting frame, as a rule, is not required.

After installing the window frames, the grooves between them are foamed and proceed to. As options, you can consider either.

Conclusion

• Two novice masters will cope with the glazing of the balcony with an aluminum profile in 3-4 hours with smoke breaks. The cost of money is the least possible. But such glazing will protect only from wind, rain, dust and leaves.
• Glazing with metal-plastic windows will cost 5-7 times more, and it can be installed over the weekend. On such a balcony with insulation in winter during daylight hours, it will be possible to stay for an hour or two in home clothes.
• For glazing on a supporting frame, two skilled craftsmen with one or two helpers will have to kill half a vacation. You can install it far from every balcony, and at a cost it will hardly come out cheaper than metal-plastic. But in the end, you get a room in which you can live and work for decades all year round.
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A glazed balcony or loggia not only provides additional thermal insulation and protects from extraneous noise from the street. Such a decision makes the owner of square meters the owner of an additional (albeit small) room, which can be arranged according to one's own taste and needs. Many construction companies offer their services in this regard, as well as sellers of PVC and aluminum profile structures. However, often the financial situation forces us to look for more cost-effective options that involve most or all of the work to be done independently. The article will discuss how to glaze the balcony yourself.

Important: glazing of balconies requires official approval from the relevant authorities. If you do everything “according to the law”, then you will first have to take care of additional “permitting” documents.

How best to glaze a balcony

There are a lot of ways, we will list all the main ones and give a little idea about them, which will allow us to decide on the direction of work in the future.

Glazed balcony photo

• "Cold" glazing, regardless of how the frames are opened, suggests that the balcony can be used as an additional “livable” room only in the warm season. This is the most inexpensive option, since aluminum profile structures, which are most often used for these purposes, are quite affordable. Among the positive qualities of this type of glazing is its low weight, so if there is any doubt about the reliability of the support, then aluminum will be the right choice. The material is very resistant to external influences, it is not afraid of humidity and low temperatures, although it can still be deformed from sudden jumps. Sometimes for the "cold" method, wooden frames with one glass are used.
• There is also an option with "warm" aluminum profile. It uses double frames and double-glazed windows. And in addition, it keeps the heat inside and does not let cold air in from the street with a special plastic placed inside the profile. But this design is almost not in demand because of the high cost.
• Usage wood frame considered a budget option, but time-consuming in terms of caring for them: you will have to renew the paint once a year if the appearance matters. To reduce the cost, some use used wood. With proper care, it will last quite a while. If income allows, then it is possible, as they say, to install wooden "euro windows" once and for life. The technology of their production makes them durable, and they look very impressive.

• Panoramic view glazing suggests that special glass, additionally processed to increase its strength characteristics, serves as the basis for assembling the floor-to-ceiling balcony railing. From the point of view of creating a spectacular space, this method occupies a leading position. Due to the thickness of the material, the apartment becomes protected from heat losses and sound insulation performance increases. The partition can be made of tinted glass and looks especially amazing when assembled without frames.
• Frameless way glazing a balcony requires certain skills and literacy during installation. But the complexity is justified by the result, when the "output" is a light, like a weightless construction of one glass. The absence of frames is compensated by special metal guide profiles. It is in them that the glass sections are attached and moved along them. Special tempered glass is used for such tasks.
• PVC profile frames are a popular and practical way of glazing. The possibility of installing double-glazed windows with three air chambers significantly insulates the room, especially in combination with a wider profile. Installation is simple and quick, and the service life is long enough that all this magnificence does not require complicated maintenance. For those who do not want to install plastic windows due to the fact that the sashes “eat up” a lot of space when opened, you can opt for the option with sliding sashes.

• If you want glaze the balcony "with the removal" of the structure, then you should be very confident in the strength of the parapet, because the load on it in this case will increase in two directions at once.

Important: it is better to carry out work on the exterior decoration of the balcony with siding or other materials before glazing. This sequence will facilitate the cladding work.

How to glaze a balcony with plastic windows

• This process is not very difficult, especially since the manufacturer itself takes measurements, so there should be no mistakes in this area. So, the finished PVC structures have been delivered, the decision has been made to abandon the installation, what's next?
• The existing old shutters are being dismantled and along the way the balcony must be freed from all objects and things that may interfere. The space of the balcony can’t be called large anyway, so ideally it’s worth taking everything out of it. What else is the "deep cleaning" stage useful for? All the nuances that require refinement and elimination during work on insulation, waterproofing and so on become immediately visible.
• A wooden beam is fixed along the perimeter of the balcony with the help of mounting dowels. When measuring, the presence of bars is taken into account. That is, the height of the finished structure will be equal to the height from the side of the barrier to the top plate, minus the parameters of the crossbar. It is worth checking with the representative of the company - the supplier, what thickness of the beam he lays in the calculations.

• First, the PVC frame itself is installed without flaps. First of all, the main and largest frontal part is mounted. And then the side. In order to save money, many refuse glass in the side part in favor of sandwich panels. This, of course, is a matter of taste.
• From the side of the street, an ebb is attached under the frame. If a balcony with a roof is glazed, then it is necessary to fix the visor. It is brought under the structure and fixed with self-tapping screws, the gaps are filled with sealant. The visor will protect against moisture ingress and its flow into the profile and into the room. Therefore, more attention should be paid to issues of tight fit.
• When the frame is level and fixed, you can proceed with the installation of the sashes in place. After installation, check them for tightness. An important indicator and smooth running when opening and closing. If everything is done correctly, then the frames will open easily and close without effort, firmly standing in the opening.

It is important to think carefully about the options for opening the valves. This structure will have to be washed, and it is better to plan it so that it is easy to get from the detached section to the neighboring “deaf” one. It is unlikely that anyone wants to risk their lives, bringing cleanliness.

• Outside, it is convenient to hide the joints with the help of additional decorative elements. They can be purchased separately, or "included" when ordering from a company that supplies PVC frames. All gaps from the inside are sealed with foam. When it dries, it is cut, the protective film is removed from the frame and sashes. Further work continues on the final decor of the room.

Glaze balcony video

Glazing a balcony with an aluminum profile

Another plus in favor of a lightweight aluminum structure is the sliding opening system. It saves space, however, because of it, there are problems with freezing of the sashes in winter. If the choice is nevertheless made in her favor, then we learn how to properly glaze the balcony.

• We dismantle the previous glazing.
• If the parapet is made in the form of metal handrails, then an “apron” made of galvanized steel must be installed on top of them. If the fence is concrete, this is not required. The profile will fit right on top of it.
• The visor is mounted.
• The window sill is installed.
• To fix the frame, anchor plates are installed in the opening. With the help of anchor bolts, a frame structure is installed on them.
• An ebb is attached to the frame.
• Shutters are installed in the openings.
• All seams are sealed with mounting foam and covered with flashings (optional)
• As the final step, the fittings are adjusted. The shutters should move apart smoothly, without making a rumble. This indicates correct installation.

Glazing a balcony with a tree

It is good if the home master has carpentry skills. Then the option with glazing with wooden frames is cheaper. After all, he can assemble the doors using wooden beams, glazing beads and ordinary glass 4 mm thick, providing them with the simplest fittings from the nearest store. However, even in the absence of such talent, you can order an inexpensive finished product in the workshop. After that, you can proceed with the installation.

It is important to consider that a large structure can "sail". Therefore, despite the external attractiveness of large and wide openings, this unpleasant effect is worth remembering.

• We have already written about the preparation above, so we skip this stage.
• There are no special tricks in installing such a design, moreover, the process itself differs little, say, from the installation of a PVC profile. Using metal mounting plates and self-tapping screws, we install a wooden frame without frames.
• Ebb, visor and window sill are installed similarly to the previously described glazing methods.
• The seams are foamed and subsequently hidden under the finish.
• The sashes are fixed in place, the fittings are debugged.

For a long time, this was the only way to glaze a balcony in Khrushchev. Of course, such glazing will never become the object of envy of neighbors. But made neatly and securely fixed, it is able to protect against dust, falling leaves and change the microclimate on the balcony by a couple of degrees.

How to glaze a balcony with your own hands in a frameless way

• A very effective type of glazing, but also requiring some effort and courage. The first thing that many homeowners fear when they are offered this option is safety. If we are talking about installing “full-length” glasses, then it may be worthwhile to provide for some kind of removable structure that reaches a meter in height and is attached to the walls or floor at a time when, for example, children are playing on the balcony. It is quite simple to weld it from metal pipes of small diameter.
• The second not entirely desirable effect of a great view of the surroundings is an equally great view of the privacy in the apartment. Especially in the evening with the lights on. Those who do not want to give neighbors and passers-by the opportunity to watch the reality show "live", you can choose the following "rescue" options.
• Consider a system of curtains or blinds. The second option will turn out to be costly, given the non-standard dimensions of the opening, and you will have to suffer with the fabric solution.
• You can choose the type of glass with one-sided transparency even at the planning stage. They look good, they are very good on sunny days, but in autumn and in cloudy winter weather, such glazing makes you sad due to the low light throughput. Alternatively, the presence of such glasses can be combined with conventional ones.
• If we are talking about frameless glazing of a balcony only in the part where most people are used to seeing a window opening, then the difficulties described above do not arise.

Important: glazing to the floor involves the dismantling of the parapet. Before performing work, you need to make sure that the demolition is legal and will not cause negative consequences for the entire house.

• For all its attractiveness, the panoramic method requires additional costs for insulation, and you should not choose it if you have a “wonderful view” of the factory complex or dull neighboring multi-storey buildings from the balcony.
• An aluminum panoramic profile will cost less, but its qualities of keeping warm, let's say, tend to zero and you should think carefully before installing it.

There are many options, but each of them can be implemented on your own. Therefore, balcony glazing can be considered one of the types of work on which you can save.