Make floors in a new apartment. We do step-by-step repair of the floor in the apartment with our own hands. Wood floor repair

Repair in an apartment or a private house includes one of the most time-consuming processes for performing work related to updating the floor. deal with this challenging task allows step by step guide for laying floor covering. First you need to prepare the surface of the base, and then choose the most suitable option arrangement of the floor in a particular room.

Preparing to repair a wooden floor and replace boards

For high-quality preparation for carrying out repair work on arranging the floor in an apartment with your own hands, you must perform the following main steps:

Remove from wood flooring decorative trim(paint or varnish).
Inspect the flooring from the boards, removing all the elements destroyed by rot and replacing them with new ones.
Check the fastening of the elements to the logs by duplicating all the boards with screws or nails.
Close up shallow cracks with putty on wood with a spatula, simultaneously hiding the caps of the fasteners that were recessed in advance.
Close all found gaps wooden blanks, suitable for the size of the cracks, and then fix them with putty.

For a more thorough cleaning of the surface of the wooden floor, it is recommended to use a grinder. The final surface treatment is carried out with putty. The places where it is applied are carefully cleaned, for which sandpaper is used. Having made a preliminary cleaning of the coating, you should re-walk over it grinder. After that, it remains only to remove debris from the floor, wipe the surface and dry it.

When conducting preparatory work attention should be paid to the integrity of the boards from which the flooring is made. If it has become unusable, then it is better to dismantle all the wooden elements and throw away the worn boards. Then a complete replacement of the wooden floor is made, consisting of elements connected in a "lock", which greatly facilitates the installation of the flooring.

Overhaul of wood flooring

If, after a preliminary inspection, it turned out that the largest part of the floorboards was in disrepair, then it will be necessary to completely dismantle the plank floor. To replace worn floorboards and strengthen loose floorboards, it is necessary to carry out work related to the overhaul in stages wooden floors. The scheme of its implementation includes the following main stages:

Remove old paintwork from floorboards with a sander.
Replace unusable boards with more reliable ones by checking the way they are attached to the logs.
Nail wooden floorboards with nails or fix with self-tapping screws.
Fill cracks with wood putty.
Wipe the areas treated with putty sandpaper and remove all debris.
Cover the floor with varnish or paint.

Thanks to modern technologies it is possible to create really reliable and environmentally friendly structures with increased strength. The tight connection of the boards to each other is carried out using a tongue and groove. All joints are reinforced with adhesive.

After laying a new coating, you should decide on the choice of finishing finishing material. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Many do not use paint and varnish materials, but cover the wooden floors with linoleum or carpet.

Concrete floor pouring technology

If the condition of the old wooden floor is critical, then you can perform a simple replacement of the boards, then you need to use putty. In order to carry out quality repair floor, it is necessary to pour a concrete screed. This will make the floor surface perfectly even, otherwise each unevenness can cause undesirable consequences, such as deformation and damage to the coating. The concrete floor pouring scheme is phased:

Dismantle the old base, removing all floorboards with lags.
Remove all debris from the room by cleaning the ceiling or worn screed.
make a bed waterproofing material using polyethylene film.
Glue the walls from below around the entire perimeter with damper tape.
Install guide beacons and cover the floor with expanded clay.
Prepare concrete mortar and pour the screed.

In some cases, you can do without arranging a floor screed, but the level of repair work will be low. As a dry backfill, expanded clay is often used, which has a low weight, as well as good thermal insulation properties. This material is necessary in the presence of large height differences. Pouring a screed sometimes requires reinforcement to make the concrete base more durable.

Ways to create a floor screed

The phased creation of a floor screed can be performed in the following ways:

using cement-sand mortar;
using dry cement mixture;
by laying dry backfill;
based on the installation of GVL.

Before repairing the floor yourself, you must take into account that the whole process is laborious. For creating quality screed all stages of floor arrangement should be carefully observed. Filling the screed cement-sand mortar is the most reliable and proven method that has long been used in construction.

An easier way to perform a floor screed is based on the use of a dry cement mixture. Do it yourself work does not require much physical effort. The cost of leveling the floor with this method is higher than pouring the "wet" method, which involves a long hardening of the screed for a month. Arrangement of a "dry" floor has a lot of advantages over pouring a screed in a "wet" way. classical cement strainer is more labor-intensive, so not everyone can cope with this method of floor repair.

"Dry" screed, performed using fine gravel, slag pumice or expanded clay sand, is laid in the presence of a removable system of beacons, which are often flat boards or metal profiles used for mounting the frame when attaching drywall. Before laying a layer of dry backfill, it is necessary to beat off the marking line along the perimeter of the room after determining the zero level. After laying the dry material, the beacons must be removed from the screed, otherwise their presence may cause floor deformation, squeaks, etc.

Dry floor technology

By carrying out a quality replacement of the floor covering, you can avoid a long staged pouring screeds "wet" way. The technology of "dry" floor has the following advantages:

reduces shipping costs building material, as well as its rise to the upper floors;
reduces the time to complete the work to 1-2 days, a maximum of 3, if you have certain skills;
allows you to zone the room, unlike the "wet" method, which requires pouring the floor in each room of the apartment;
has a low weight, which is acceptable for repairing floors in apartments of multi-storey buildings;
allows you to create a reliable coating that can withstand significant mechanical loads;
eliminates the need for special tools, including concrete mixers, mix tanks, mixers, etc.

The floor, repaired on the basis of the "dry" screed method, has increased noise and thermal insulation characteristics. The thickness of the dry screed layer, which should be 30 mm, allows you to hide electrical wiring, as well as pipes. Finishing on a perfectly flat surface will serve for many years. A "dry" floor screed is arranged according to a certain scheme, which implies the presence of such components as:

waterproofing film;
damper tape;
dry backfill;
sheet material.

The very first layer is waterproofing membrane, i.e. film 0.2 mm thick. It is better if this material is laid as a single sheet. If you need to overlap, then it should be 12-20 cm. Scotch tape must be used to glue such places. The edges of the membrane are wound on the walls of the room to a height corresponding to the thickness of the screed with a small margin.

At the next stage, the entire perimeter of the room must be glued with a damper tape so that it holds the membrane. When laying the tape, it is necessary to ensure that the material runs slightly higher than the planned floor level. For greater reliability, the reinforced tape is fixed with a layer of dry backfill laid along the perimeter.

Hardware stores offer a wide range of floor coverings. They may differ in characteristics and cost. When choosing any of them, it is necessary to take into account all the pros and cons of a particular material, as well as its properties. Most often, indoor flooring is done using parquet, laminate, linoleum, carpet, and floor tiles.

The flooring of the parquet board is natural, it is necessary to choose it for dry ventilated rooms, but not for the kitchen or bathroom. If necessary, the parquet can be easily dismantled and then laid back. Laminate differs from parquet in that it consists of 4 layers:

Stabilizing.
Carrier.
Decorative.
Protective.

Laminate requires less care than parquet, but is also not moisture resistant. Linoleum has the same properties, which is not suitable for rooms with high humidity. Carpet, which has increased sound insulation, includes 4 main layers:

Fixing.
Primary basis.
Pile.
secondary base.

Carpet flooring in the kitchen and hallway wears out quickly because it is sensitive to moisture. Perfect for kitchen, bathroom and hallway ceramic tile which is easy to maintain and long term services. When performing work in stages with your own hands, it must be remembered that the choice of low-quality materials can cause them to swell, shift, or other unpleasant consequences.

With this article, we open a series of 7 lessons on how to make a do-it-yourself floor in an apartment. Moreover, we will start from the very beginning - it concrete base, since the entire subsequent result will depend on it.

How not to do the floor

Imagine that you carefully aligned all the walls, pasted expensive wallpaper, made a design stretch ceiling with built-in lights, bought new furniture. The beauty! What about parquet? The parquet then remained old, creaky with dirty cracks .... And all the beauty is immediately crossed out by a shabby, crooked floor. Here it comes out partial renovation- money down the drain. But, how to make a floor in an apartment with your own hands, because it's very difficult ?!

After looking at all this critically, you decide to renew the floor and go to the building supermarket. And there the mass of buyers loads carts with boxes with a laminate and cork substrates.

After evaluating the upcoming amount of work, you decide to lay the flooring directly on the old parquet. And as a result, you get the same creaky, crooked floor, which only looks new.

Classic floor screed

Well, who decided to overhaul floors, opens the old parquet, removes the subfloor, logs and prepares the concrete floor. But how does he prepare it? Classic variant- monolithic concrete pouring.

As a rule, floor leveling at home consists in a uniform pouring of a concrete solution over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room with a finishing filling with a self-leveling liquid. This is a classic floor screed -. The process itself is not complicated and is well applicable for cases where floor height differences are not significant. Now imagine a different picture: the differences are more than 5 cm! In this case, leveling the floor using a classic screed will require certain physical and material costs ( a large number of concrete).

Let's ask a question: why do we fill the floor with concrete?

Answer: to get an even solid base, on top of which you can put logs, boards, plywood, and then parquet.

How to make a floor with your own hands in an apartment using new technology

Now we will tell you how to make a floor with your own hands in an apartment in a different way and get a tighter even base ...

Based on personal experience, we offer unique technology preparation of a new base for any floor covering at home. You no longer need to fill the entire floor with concrete, it is enough to make perfectly even concrete bars, on which you can also put logs, boards, plywood and parquet:

Advantages of the new proprietary technology

The technology we propose has many advantages, proven in practice:

Have you ever mixed rotband, cement or floor leveler at home? If yes, then you will estimate the savings on the volume of the leveler by about 4-5 times!
Reducing the load on the floors of the house is also an important point when modern quality house structures. Using the classical method of homogeneous pouring with a significant curvature of the floor can increase the consumption of concrete up to several tons. In the author's technology, this will not happen.
The use of the technology proposed by us will allow to achieve a higher accuracy of alignment of the base.
In case of mistakes made, it is much easier to chip off the excess from concrete bars than to knock them down with a continuous pour.
One more thing important advantage– significant savings Money on leveling: more than 10 times! You also save on the amount of material used, and on the use of a cheap cement-sand mixture instead of an expensive leveling agent.

In the next lesson, we will continue to study the topic of how to make a floor with your own hands in an apartment based on a new author's technology.

7 lessons of high-quality floor installation

Lesson 1

How to repair the subfloor in the apartment with your own hands? I will talk about the specifics of this work, and also show options for restoring two types of coatings - wooden and concrete. You will learn what materials are required for this and how to do the work yourself.

Types of residential floors

The draft floor in houses and apartments is most often found in two types:

Wood;
Concrete.

The process of repairing the floor, as you might guess, depends on its type. Therefore, further I will talk about the restoration of each of them. I am sure that this will help beginners to independently carry out apartment renovations from start to finish.

Wood floor repair

Repair of a wooden floor includes several stages:

Step: 1: dismantling the boards and revising the log

If the floor needs a major overhaul, i.e. it creaks, bends, or the boards simply rotted, you need to do the following:

Illustrations	Description of the action to be performed
	Preparation of materials. At this stage, you will need the following materials: Impregnation for wood; Nails or screws; Insulation and waterproofing (if you plan to insulate the floor); Bars and boards (needed to replace old rotten parts.)
	Removing the plinth. If the plinth is wooden, you can use a crowbar for these purposes.
	Removing paint. If the floor is painted oil paint, you need to get rid of it. To do this, you can use a building hair dryer or special tool for removing paint (wash).
	Dismantling boards: Use a nail puller or other tool to pull out the old nails and dismantle the boards; In the process of dismantling the boards, inspect them for rot and other defects. Those that are partially rotted - cut off. Completely spoiled - to throw away. Number good boards so that they are easier to stack later.
	Revision lag: Inspect the logs carefully for rot; Instead of damaged logs, lay new bars; Treat all logs and boards with wood impregnation; Make sure the joists are level. To do this, attach a rule with a level; If necessary, align the position of the lag. To do this, you can put bars, trimming boards or plywood under them; If the floor sags, additional joists should be installed to reduce the step between them.
	Floor insulation: Lay a waterproofing film on the logs; Fill the space between the lags with insulation (any heat-insulating material can be used); Put another layer of waterproofing on top.

The base of the floor is ready, now you need to properly lay the flooring.

Step 2: flooring installation

Do-it-yourself installation of boards is carried out as follows:

Illustrations	Description of works
	Laying the first board: Lay the first board across the joist along the wall; Align it so that a gap of 1.5-2 cm forms between the wall and the board. The gap should be uniform along the entire board.
	Fastening the first board. Attach the board to the joists with self-tapping screws. If the board is tongue-and-groove, the self-tapping screws should be screwed flat from the side of the wall. FROM reverse side self-tapping screws are screwed into the lower comb, which provides hidden installation. If the board is ordinary edged, the screws are also screwed in flat. At the same time, the hats must definitely be deepened by 5 millimeters, otherwise they will interfere with further finishing.
	Installation of subsequent boards: Press the second board against the first. For these purposes, you can use a mallet; Fix the second board with self-tapping screws; Lay all the boards in this manner.

If the boards have to be joined along the length, make sure that the joints are located on the floor in a run.

I must say that in cases where the "tree" on the floor is in a normal state, i.e. the floor does not need major repairs, the first and second steps can be omitted.

Step 3: Preparing for Finishing

So, we figured out how to repair and strengthen the floor, now let's look at how to update the flooring surface. The work is done like this:

Illustrations	Description
	Preparation of materials. To perform this procedure, you will need wood putty.
	Cycling. The meaning of scraping is to level the surface by removing a thin top layer of wood. For this, a special hand tool or a looper.
	Grinding. Use a grinder or planer with sandpaper stretched. In the process of grinding, you need to get rid of all traces left after sanding. As a result, the floor should be even and smooth.
	Putty: Existing gaps, cracks and recesses of the self-tapping screws must be filled with putty; The hardened surface must be sanded. If the floor will be varnished, you should choose a putty to match the color of the tree.

Now the old wooden floor has been repaired. It remains only to paint it or open it with varnish. If a finish coating, for example, linoleum or laminate, is to be laid on the floor, the surface must be treated with a protective impregnation.

Concrete floor repair

How to repair a concrete floor? There are several ways to deal with this task:

With the help of a repair solution;
Self-levelling compound;
dry way.

Method 1: repair cracks and potholes with repair mortar

If the floor has minor imperfections, such as cracks, gouges and chips, it is best to repair these defects with a special repair mortar. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Illustrations	Description of works
	Preparation of materials. To repair a concrete surface, you will need: Repair mix for concrete; Primer.
	Surface preparation: Sweep the floor; Wire brush all areas that you will be repairing; Expand thin cracks using a chisel and hammer. The resulting grooves are also thoroughly cleaned of dust.
	Padding. Treat the floor with a primer with a brush. After drying the composition, repeat the procedure.
	Solution preparation. Before you make repairs to the concrete floor in the apartment with your own hands, shut it in water repair mix according to the instructions on the package. If the depth of cracks or potholes exceeds 5 cm, they must be filled with mortar in two or three stages to avoid the appearance of cavities.
	Troubleshooting: Fill all existing cracks and potholes with repair mortar, and level it with a trowel; The hardened mortar on the floor must be sanded.

If the concrete surface has such irregularities as ridges and sags, it can be sanded using a grinder with a special nozzle for concrete grinding.

Method 2: repair with self-levelling compound

If the screed is in poor condition or, for example, you want to make a warm floor, you can use a self-leveling mixture. Repair in this case is carried out as follows:

Illustrations	Description of works
	materials: Self-leveling compound; Repair mix for concrete; Primer.
	Surface preparation: Thoroughly sweep the floor and clean it of dirt; If there are deep cracks, chips or potholes on the surface, repair them according to the scheme described above.
	Padding. Treat the entire surface of the floor with a primer in two stages.
	Underfloor heating installation: Lay special mats or membrane for underfloor heating; Lay the heating elements of the warm floor in a zigzag pattern.
	Pouring self leveling compound: Prepare the solution according to the instructions on the package; Pour the mixture on the floor; Level the surface with a spiked roller. If necessary, pour the solution on the floor.

This completes the work. Already a few days after pouring the floor can be exploited. The only thing to keep in mind is that a high-quality self-levelling compound is not cheap, so in some cases it is cheaper to fill in a new screed than to repair an old floor in this way.

Method 3: dry repair

If you want to repair the concrete floor in the apartment with your own hands quickly and without doing wet work, this method is just what you need. Its principle is to level the surface with sheets of plywood or OSB (Oriented Strand Board). ) .

The work is done like this:

Illustrations	Description of works
	Materials. Before you make the floor in the apartment in this way, you need to prepare: Plywood or OSB (oriented strand board); Parquet glue or even bituminous mastic; Primer.
	Surface preparation: Sweep the floor and clean off dirt; Prime the concrete screed.
	Sheet preparation. Plywood and OSB sheets are quite large. To make them easy to work with, cut them into squares about 50x50 cm in size.
	Pre-installation: Lay out the sheets in a checkerboard pattern beforehand, as shown in the photo. Cut where needed. Keep in mind that there should be a gap of 5-10 mm between the sheets, make the same gap between the sheets and walls; Number the stacked sheets, and make a diagram of their location on paper.
	Bonding: Apply glue to the first sheet with a notched trowel; Press the sheet to the floor; Align the position of the sheet with a level. According to this scheme, paste over the entire floor with plywood.
	Cyclevka. At the end of the work, level the floor surface with a sanding machine.

This completes the work. I must say that the data can be used only in cases where the surface of the floor screed does not deviate from the horizontal.

If the concrete floor is uneven, you can make an adjustable floor. Its principle is that adjustable racks are attached to sheets of plywood, resembling adjustable legs furniture.

This allows you to adjust the position of each sheet relative to the horizontal, and relative to each other. The rest of the work is carried out according to the principle described above.

Here, and all the information on how to make the floors in the apartment strong and durable.

Conclusion

Now you can repair the floor yourself using any of the methods described above. If there are incomprehensible moments, then I also recommend watching the video in this article. Well, if you have any questions, ask in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

Floors traditionally experience the greatest mechanical stress. It is not surprising that sooner or later any floor covering needs to be repaired. First of all, all the requirements of the technology should be observed, it does not matter whether it is a major overhaul of a wooden floor or a cosmetic “patching” concrete screed.

Repair types

New buildings do not particularly need repair of floors, which cannot be said about houses that are more than 10 years old.

Floor repair options can be very different, the most common are:

Cosmetic floor repair.
Capital repairs.

The first type of repair is a partial replacement of boards if the floor is wooden. This may be the restoration of fragments of the floor in the apartment. Similar operations can be done even with the furniture in the room, they are simple, anyone can perform them.

If the floors need to be redone completely, the repair is done overhaul.

From the premises without fail:

all items are removed;
boards are dismantled;
lags are removed, dust and dirt are removed;
cut off the old waterproofing.

The easiest way to carry out such work is in a panel house, when a floor slab is located below the old logs. The task in this case: deleting all wooden structures and the old waterproofing, go to the interfloor reinforced concrete slab.

After the floors are dismantled, all wooden elements are checked, material is prepared from new boards and timber, which will replace boards and logs that have become unusable.

Then the whole process starts in reverse order:

new waterproofing is covered;
logs are mounted;
pre-prepared boards are put in place.

If there are gaps between the boards, they are plugged with chips, which are pre-coated with PVA glue. The remains of the chips are cut off with a chisel, the floor is processed with a grinder. Separate areas are manually rubbed with sandpaper.

Then the garbage is removed, the floor surface is varnished in 2-3 layers. Each layer must dry for a certain amount time.

There is a screed on the floors in the toilet and bathroom. If you want to redecorating floor, then the cracks in the screed are embroidered and sealed with a starting mortar on a cement or gypsum basis.

During the overhaul, the entire screed is removed using a perforator; metal guides, "beacons" (using a level) are installed, a new screed is poured. Make such simple work you can do it yourself, large building qualifications are not required here.

Definition of defects

The floors in the house are always presented special requirements they must comply with the following standards:

sanitary;
operational;
aesthetic;
constructive.

It is important to check the floors in time, this will make it possible to promptly eliminate the defects that have arisen:

damage to the layer of varnish and paint;
crevices clogging and ventilation holes;
abrasion and decay of boards;
floor subsidence,
cracking of the material;
cracks and chips;
shrinkage and brittleness.

If the floor is a curve, then you can immediately determine without special tools that the logs under the boards have become unusable, they should be changed.

When the floor sways - this indicates that the lags are badly damaged, in this case it follows:

dismantling the boards, check them;
removing the old lags, put new ones in their place.

The ultimate goal of do-it-yourself floor repair is to remove all defects. When installing a new floor, it is important to take into account that there is natural air exchange between the ceilings and joists, its presence will ensure that the floor lasts a long time and does not deteriorate from the inside.

The floors of the first floors are most at risk, they experience increased vibration. With poor waterproofing inner side the floor is covered with mold; within a few years, wooden structures become completely unusable.

AT wooden house such problems are quite common, so it is necessary to do a routine inspection and tapping of the boards at least once a year. If the sound is heard too dull during impacts, then this indicates that there is a cavity in the tree: a section of the board or beam has become unusable. If gaps of more than three millimeters appeared between the boards, then this is a sure sign that the floor is deformed, the logs are damaged, measures should be taken.

In "Khrushchev" and panel houses buildings of the 70s of the last century, one can often observe the lag of synthetic slabs from the floor. The reason is the accumulated dust and dirt that falls on the concrete base; provokes a similar phenomenon very often the presence of high humidity.

Warping of the corners of synthetic tiles is also not uncommon. This is explained by the fact that the floor is traditionally a zone of increased mechanical loads. Sooner or later, the material begins to crumble, wear out and deteriorate.

Also, the cause of defects on the floor surface can be:

rearrangement of furniture;
falling on the floor of heavy metal objects;
high humidity in room.

Identifying damaged areas is not difficult. You should take a hammer, knock on the screed. If a dull sound occurs, then this is a sure sign: there is a cavity in this place.

How to replace floors?

The easiest way is to re-lay wooden floors in Khrushchev when it is necessary to replace some boards or logs. It takes a short time, just a few days.

There are floor repairs on a larger scale when necessary:

remove linoleum and the entire screed (if the floor is concrete);
remove boards, logs and waterproofing;
knock down the tiles and remove the old screed.

You can change wooden floors with your own hands, sometimes the amount of work is large, so you need to invite assistants.

Any floor resembles a layer cake in its design; technological requirements include the installation of:

thermal insulation;
waterproofing.

The main amount of work is the dismantling of the old floor, which is gradually dismantled. Premises with wooden floors located on the ground floor, more than others suffer from high humidity.

The lag replacement itself occurs according to the following algorithm:

using the water level top point horizontally;
markings are made;
a beam is fixed along the wall according to the marked markings;
logs are mounted on polymer wedges or special screwed bolts;
the beam is fixed in the screed using anchors;
studs are passed through the beam and fixed to the base;
in the future, the height can be adjusted using a nut, which makes it possible to position the logs at the desired level;
the rest of the studs are cut off.

A space is naturally formed between the boards and the floor, which is due to the height of the lag; it must be properly ventilated. Cuts are made in the logs for this case, which provide the necessary air supply.

Removing the old coating

If the repair takes place in a new building, then the dismantling of the floor is not needed, most of the apartments in our time are rented by builders without finishing. If there is a question about putting the floor in order in an old house, then removing the floor is a paramount task.

Most questions arise regarding the plank floor.

Defects that occur on such a coating:

rotting of the lag board;
damage to insulation and waterproofing.

The dismantling of material such as linoleum is the most simple task. First of all, you should remove the baseboards, under which the edges of the old coating are located. By fixing the edge, you can remove the linoleum or carpet in a matter of minutes. The remains of the old glue are scraped off with a chisel. The remains of linoleum are removed using a spatula, sometimes acetone or another solvent is used.

Parquet is also easy to dismantle with a nail puller and a hammer.

Dismantling tiles is a more complicated operation: adhesive composition, on which the tile is attached, is very durable. AT hardware store you can rent a small puncher and clean the plane of the dried residues of tile adhesive.

mask;
gloves;
glasses;
respirator.

Using a perforator, any screed is disassembled.

Evaluation and preparation of the foundation

Preparing the base of any floor is an important step; the durability of the coating depends on how high-quality the base will be. The most inexpensive and durable base is a concrete screed, which is done if there are differences of more than 1 cm in a standard room of 4 x 5 meters.

The reasons:

is inexpensive;
has good strength.

The preparation of a concrete base has its own characteristics. The plate must be completely cleaned of dirt and deposits, for this a grinder is used. Recesses and cracks are sealed with starting putty.

Required tools:

Grinder;
industrial vacuum cleaner;
perforator.

Then waterproofing, roofing material and polyethylene film. The film is sold in rolls, so its strips are usually 1.5 - 2 meters wide. The strips must be overlapped with a gap of 12 cm. Then the joints are glued with adhesive tape or damper tape.

Metal guides, "beacons" are mounted, while water and two-meter levels are used. The technology for installing beacons is simple, but it requires concentration; if the guides are set incorrectly, the floor will be crooked.

A cement-sand mixture is being prepared, which can be bought at a hardware store.

The grade of cement in this case must be at least 200. The moisture content of the mixture is permissible no more than 4%. The mixture is poured under the upper level of the lighthouses.

Important details:

the distance between the beacons does not exceed two meters;
beacons must be placed using a two-meter level;
during the drying period of the screed (no more than 5 days), it is covered with a PVC film;
work can be carried out at a temperature not lower than five degrees Celsius.

In preparation wooden base floors often require replacement of beams that have served their time. aBefore applying, for example, a self-leveling floor, the wooden coating must be necessarily rough.

For these purposes, it is used:

sandpaper;
chisel.

Floor height differences when laying laminate should not exceed two millimeters, based on 2 x 2 meters of area

The base of the floor is often made of wood boards:

gypsum fiber;
gypsum concrete.

In terms of strength, these materials do not meet the requirements, they are subject to excessive deformation. It is much more rational to install slabs made of expanded clay concrete.

When installing parquet, the moisture content of the base should be no more than five percent.

Mounting

To cover the floor, you need a rather large amount of money, if you do this work yourself, you will be able to save money.

First you need to prepare:

buy at any hardware store a mixture of screeds on cement base;
purchase waterproofing in rolls;
prepare essential tool and containers.

You can make a mixture for the screed yourself, for this you will need:

sifted sand - 4 shares;
cement 400 - 1 share.

Water is added to the dry mixture in small portions, the substance is mixed. After the completion of the pouring of the screed, a pause is taken for three days.

Almost any coating can be laid on the finished screed:

tiles;
parquet;
linoleum;
cork;
wooden floor (if you put pre-logs).

The most popular wood materials are:

parquet;
batten.

Wood is now the most sought-after type of flooring, no modern materials cannot replace it.

After the old boards are removed, the logs should be checked - if they are rotten, then they must be replaced. Expanded clay should be poured between the lags or grooves should be laid with foam plastic, technical wool.

After the insulation is laid, a screed is made. When everything is ready, you can lay the boards. The main condition for installation wooden planks: they should not touch, at the same time, the gaps between them should not exceed two millimeters. The installation process starts from the opposite wall from the door. After the flooring is done, you should start surface treatment with a scraper machine.

Then painting begins, it is used in this case:

dye;
primer;
stain;

Installation of the floor is technically not particularly difficult, while it is important to strictly follow all the requirements of the technology.

How to raise?

To raise the floor to a level of 15-20 centimeters, it will be necessary to set the logs to a given height. You can do this work yourself. The beams are attached to the concrete with special anchors. The distance between the guides is made from 50 to 100 cm. All the bars are set relative to the marks that are made using the water level.

After the bars are installed, they should be checked with a two-meter level.

It is never possible to place the bars perfectly right away, they will have to be adjusted in height with the help of chips and planks. The error is permissible no more than 5 millimeters between different corners of a room of 20 square meters. m.

After installing the bars, floor insulation begins: technical wool or polystyrene is laid in the cavity between the structures. An effective and inexpensive remedy is also expanded clay, which is often impregnated with liquid cement mortar, why its thermal insulation performance will only improve.

On the logs, the floor can be raised to the desired height, modern apartments are now being made with high ceilings, "room for maneuver" will be enough.

Can be laid chipboard sheets or boards. Be sure to leave a gap of 1-2 mm, otherwise a creak will be heard when walking.

It is important to maintain air exchange in the space between the screed and the boards, this will be insurance against the appearance of excessive condensate in these areas. Along the perimeter of the walls, it is required to close up all the seams and cracks; for this, mounting foam is usually used.

How to repair the rough coating?

When buying apartments in new buildings, you can often come across the concept: rough finish. Housing with a rough finish is cheaper by 20 percent, so additional funds are needed to equip the apartment.

Rough finishing is directly related to construction technology. The most “difficult” in this regard are apartments that are made for state employees or under a mortgage.

Things are better with monolithic houses; in such buildings, questions usually arise about the floors in the bathroom and in the kitchen. Rough finish needed new house always shrinks, so you should wait a year, only then do a “finishing” repair.

It often happens that the house settles unevenly, in which case the appearance of gaps between the plates is inevitable. Before making a rough screed, waterproofing and insulation should be laid.

The rough floor in private houses is the basis for the final coating. The most common is the draft floor on the logs. Logs are made of timber, installed in specially prepared recesses of the crowns. The distance between them and the wall is no more than three millimeters. If the logs are too long, then they are strengthened from below with columns made of bricks. The step between the lags does not exceed 50 cm.

When installing a subfloor made of chipboard, the thickness of the sheet must be at least two centimeters

Lags are fastened with self-tapping screws. The joints between the sheets are made over the lags, between which thermal insulation is laid; sawdust or wood chips are suitable for these purposes.

It is permissible to lay a draft plywood floor directly on a concrete screed, the distance between sheets can reach 8 mm. The gap between the walls and sheets is 16 mm. The sheets are mounted in a checkerboard pattern, the sheets are numbered, a diagram-plan is drawn up of how they will be located.

When working, use a two-meter level. At the beginning of installation, using water or laser level it is recommended to put marks on the walls, relative to which the floor will be leveled.

It is permissible to lay plywood even in the old way wood flooring. Such operations are permissible if the old floor is in good condition. If there are damaged boards, they should be replaced. The thickness of plywood can be 10 mm category IV, such material is inexpensive and durable.

The consumption rate is written on containers with paints, so it will not be difficult to understand: how much color is approximately required. On average, one square meter needs about 200-260 grams of paint (if painted in one layer). If you need to paint the surface in two layers, then given figure should be multiplied by a factor of 1.9.

When buying paint, be sure to check the article numbers and numbers of the released batch, they must match.

Before starting work, the floor must be thoroughly cleaned with grinder. Must not be:

old paint;
any irregularities;
cracks.

All cracks should be sealed with wood chips and PVA glue. After the preparatory work is completed, the floor is treated with hot drying oil, as well as a primer.

There must be at least two layers of primer.

when painting, the container must be shaken thoroughly;
work should be in a respirator, glasses and special clothing;
it is recommended to start work from the perimeter, painting it over, move to the middle of the room using a roller;
skirting boards at the joints must be puttied and then painted over, if there are “burrs” at the joints, then they are rubbed with sandpaper;
after the first application of the layer, some time passes, the paint dries up and then the floor is painted a second time;

Hello dear blog readers! If you got here, it means that you are worried about your floors and there is a great desire to somehow transform them. Most likely, you are terribly tired of the creaking of old floorboards or the terrible look of shabby parquet. As always, there is a way out - repair. Today, together we will figure out how to properly repair the floor in an apartment with our own hands in stages. Let's start about everything in order.

Summary of this article:

Options for repairing floors in an apartment can be conditionally divided into two main areas according to the nature of the implementation:

Capital - require the dismantling of the floor base (screeds, logs, etc.), and the complete replacement of the old floor covering. We will talk more about the overhaul of floors later in a dedicated section.

Current - imply a complete or partial replacement of the old floor covering, as a rule, without affecting the screed and floors.

Most of the current floor repair options involve the replacement of all or part of the floor finish made of the following materials:

parquet board

Laminate

Linoleum

Tile

Cork

Polymer self-leveling floor

To determine which floor repair option is more suitable for you, you must first analyze the base floor and the finish coat.

Of course, ideally, it is best to immediately overhaul the floor, but this requires significant finances. Therefore, look at your capabilities and, of course, at the floor area in the apartment.

After all, the apartment is different! There are apartments of the "old fund", and there are modern ones with a huge area. Next, we will understand the features of repairing the floor of small apartments.

Before starting the repair of floors in the apartments of the “old stock”, it is necessary to choose the appropriate implementation option, i.e. current (cosmetic) or capital.

To do this, an audit of the existing base of the floor and the final coating should be carried out. After that, having finally decided, you can proceed.

In most cases, the floors in Khrushchev's and Stalin's apartments are a multi-layered "pie", the filling of which varies greatly, i.e. in one apartment there may be heat-sound insulation, and in another there is none at all.

There are frequent cases when wooden lags just sleepy construction garbage remaining during the construction of the house.

These are the realities. Therefore, it is best, of course, to carry out a major overhaul, i.e. completely dismantle the old coating, remove all debris, and reproduce a new one.

The whole process of overhauling the floor with your own hands in Khrushchev (Stalinka) consists of the following steps:

Dismantling of the old flooring - complete dismantling.

Thorough cleaning of the resulting debris.

A close analysis of the existing foundation.

Elimination of cracks, potholes, seams, if any.

Screed device.

Laying the final floor covering.

Floor overhaul - step by step instructions

Overhaul of the floor is divided according to the degree of execution into the following types:

Full - performed in case of impossibility of partial.

Partial - applicable in cases where the identified damage relates to an insignificant part of the floor covering, i.e. can be partially replaced.

Follow the detailed step-by-step instructions to properly perform a major overhaul of the floor:

Step 1 - Dismantling the old flooring - complete dismantling.

The old plank floor is best dismantled in large pieces, i.e. break out with a crowbar, and where necessary, file with a saw.

So it will be much more convenient to take the old floor out into the street than small pieces of it laid out in multiple bags.

The old screed must be split with a hammer drill with a breaker nozzle. Here it is most convenient to pack it in bags for take-out in the future.

Step 2 - Thorough cleaning of the generated debris.

You should not be limited to the removal of large remnants of the old floor - you need all the little things, and even dust to nullify!

It is best to use the "services" of a vacuum cleaner, which will perform high-quality cleaning work, unlike the good old broom.

Step 3 - A closer look at the existing foundation.

After a thorough cleaning, the base of the floor is in full view. Here it is just necessary to analyze the state of the starting point and predict approximately the amount of work required and the budget.

Step 4 - Elimination of cracks, potholes, seams, if any.

After detecting various damage to the subfloor, it is imperative to repair them. Protruding potholes - cut down with a puncher with a chipper, cracks and seams - close up with cement mortar.

Step 5 - Screed device.

Before the screed device, it is best to prime the base of the floor, so the adhesion will be as strong as possible.

We fill in the beacons and give a good grab. Better wait a week to be sure.

Step 6 - Laying the final flooring.

After complete drying screeds proceed to laying the finishing floor covering. It can be parquet, laminate, cork, linoleum, etc.

So, following this step-by-step instruction, you can independently carry out a major overhaul of the floor.

Repairing the floor in the kitchen - a guide for beginners

The process of repairing floors in the kitchen requires a special attitude and approach, because. This room is characterized by changes in temperature and humidity.

That is why we have compiled a small guide for beginners so that mistakes are not made at the earliest stages.

Options for repairing kitchen floors include the following:

Capital (solid) - are mainly performed with a complete alteration of the kitchen space.

Cosmetic (current) - provide for the replacement of the floor finish, the correction of minor defects in the base, etc.

The sequence of actions for repairing floors in the kitchen is as follows:

Dismantling of the old finishing floor material. First, of course, you need to take out all the furniture so that nothing interferes.

We check the level of the existing subfloor. If it’s normal, then it’s great, if not, you need to align.

Next, we go shopping for a new floor covering, what exactly suits you, decide for yourself.

In conclusion - laying or laying the finish coating.

The main thing when choosing a new finish for the kitchen floor is to pay attention to the following material characteristics:

Heat resistance – elevated temperatures are not uncommon in the kitchen, so it is best to choose heat-resistant flooring.

Moisture resistance - in the process of cooking, the floors often get dirty, as a result of which they are often washed. Therefore, the floors in the kitchen should not be afraid of moisture!

Abrasion resistance - no one will argue that the kitchen is a walk-through room, because. She is the favorite of most people. Therefore, the materials on the floor must be extremely durable and not lose appearance long years.

Renovating the floor in the bathroom is a very interesting task. It can be easily done on your own.

The main stages of repair work to bring the bathroom floor back to normal can be identified as follows:

Preparatory work - first of all, the old finishing floor is dismantled, all debris is removed, cracks and cracks are covered over, and the entire surface is primed.

Waterproofing procedures - the floor is carefully treated with a special bituminous coating for bathrooms.

Screed device - beats off beacons zero level, then the mixture is prepared and evenly distributed.

Laying the floor finish - after the new screed has completely hardened, you can start laying tiles, linoleum (which is less common), or parquet boards.

Most often, of course, in bathrooms for laying on the floor is used tile, because it is ideally suited for its characteristics to the operational requirements of wet rooms.

Diagnostics and repair of underfloor heating (electric and water)

In order to properly repair a warm floor with your own hands, you must first carry out a diagnosis. As you know, the warm floor is water and electric.

The main breakdowns of electric underfloor heating are:

Thermostat malfunction.

To begin with, it should be removed, having previously de-energized. Then we disassemble and convert Special attention to the primary winding of the transformer. If it burned out, which is exactly what happens most often - only a replacement.

You can also check the functionality with a multimeter. It is possible to repair the underfloor heating thermostat, but this is not justified. It's easier to just buy a new one.

Incorrect operation of the temperature sensor.

It may happen that exposing temperature regime warm floor, you will begin to notice after a while his "disobedience".

For example, you set the temperature to the maximum, and the floor is barely warm, or vice versa, you are trying to lower the temperature from a red-hot one, and the reaction is zero.

In this situation, it is no longer advisable to repair the underfloor heating sensor - it is best to go to the store for a new one.

The most common malfunction of a water-heated floor is a pipe breakage as a result of repair and construction work (for example, it was hit with a grinder or a puncher when dismantling the old floor covering).

Underfloor heating pipe repair involves the following steps:

The first thing to do in the event of a breakdown is to turn off the water.

Next, we expand the new piece of pipe and the damaged ends of the old pipes.

Then we put on all the necessary fittings.

We press in all the ends of the pipes.

We check the functionality.

Everything is simple! How about concrete flooring? We will discuss this further.

Performing repairs concrete floors unlike wooden ones, of course, it is required less often, but it still happens. That is why we will consider the main malfunctions and the process of their elimination in stages:

Repair of potholes and cracks in concrete floor screed.

Do-it-yourself repair of a concrete floor screed can be done if you have a desire and a tool, the main thing is not to be afraid and start acting! Small potholes and cracks must be expanded both in depth and in breadth with the help of diamond disc and Bulgarians.

Next, be sure to prime the embroidered area with a special primer deep penetration. After it dries, pour trouble spot cement mortar, which you can easily prepare yourself.

Of course, you can use a ready-made composition for repairing a concrete floor, if possible. After the filled area has completely solidified, it is important to grind the resulting surface to a level with the floor.

Repair of deformation joints in concrete floors.

Most concrete bases have expansion joints that allow the concrete to "walk" a little under heavy loads - thanks to them, the appearance of cracks is prevented. But these seams themselves often suffer - chips and potholes form on them.

They can be eliminated with the help of special mastics or sealants for concrete, building harness-seal and profile systems for expansion joints. It is better to entrust the installation of the latter to professionals.

And how to repair the old floor from wooden boards? Let's talk about this next.

Do-it-yourself repair of an old wooden floor in an apartment is not difficult. Many men have done this at least once in their lives.

Here are the main problems of old wood floors and how to fix them:

Small and large cracks in boards.

Cracks are formed due to initially incorrect laying, and in the process of drying the tree, after a long time.

In large cracks, wedges are most often driven in size from the same type of wood, and the protruding parts are compared with the floor level.

Small cracks and crevices are covered with a special wood putty, which has many shades. Therefore, it will not be difficult to choose the right one.

The creak of boards from bending and rubbing against each other.

Due to unevenly spaced lags, there are cases of deflection of the floorboards. As long as they are new and fresh, there are no problems. But, as soon as the floorboards dry out, a terrible creak begins.

To correct this ailment, it is necessary to dismantle several boards at the deflection point, and then move the logs a little, if possible, or put a new support in the problem area.

Also, creaking occurs when the floorboards rub against each other - this is a very unpleasant incident of old wooden floors. You can solve this trouble by pulling the floorboards with lags with long thin screws, completely immobilizing them.

And what about the parquet floor? We will talk about this further.

Repair of parquet floors is of two types:

Cosmetic - involves the replacement of only some elements and bringing it into a "nice" look.

Capital - complete replacement (parquet re-tiled).

A major overhaul of old parquet floors is inevitable with a floating subfloor, as along with it, parquet boards will also set sail.

Cosmetic, however, will be required in the following cases:

Darkening of the parquet surface, for example from long-standing furniture.

To eliminate this disease, you must first perform scraping, then grinding, then soak the entire surface of the floor with a special stain and varnish it.

The gaps formed between some boards.

Parquet is, first of all, a tree, and a tree tends to dry and change. Therefore, damaged boards must be carefully replaced with suitable ones in color and size.

Raised section of parquet after flooding.

A small flooded area of the floor can be dried with building hair dryer, having previously removed the wet elements. After that, put them back in their rightful places.

The nasty creaking sound of parquet boards against each other.

To fix this problem, you will need small cloves, and better self-tapping screws, because they have no reverse. With their help, you can fit the boards closer to each other.

Repair of a tiled floor is most often required after the following troubles:

A crack or chip in a tile caused by a heavy object being dropped.

A complete split due to the load on a specific point of a particular tile.

Wobbly base floor

Floor tile repair rarely involves complete replacement of the entire tile - only in the case of a poor floor base under it. In other situations, you can get by with replacing only damaged tiles.

In order to carefully remove a broken tile from the general “picture”, you must perform the following steps:

Fill with a thin drill many holes in the remaining element of the broken tile.

Starting from the center, gently and gently start stabbing the rest with a chisel or chisel, you can also use an old chisel.

As a result of these actions, it will be possible to easily remove the broken tile without damaging the adjacent one. Then we smear tile adhesive floor base and new tile and put it in the level, not tapping hard.

But what can be done with a damaged polymer floor? We will talk about this further.

Repair of polymer self-leveling floors in an apartment is certainly different from the repair of other types of floor coverings.

The main malfunctions of self-leveling floors, which entailed repair work, can be identified as follows:

Bubbles with air or vice versa sunken into the surface of the self-leveling floor.

Such a misfortune could happen at the time of pouring the self-leveling floor, because. simply poured mortar was not rolled evenly with a spiked roller. Do not forget about this important procedure!

Cracks and cracks of various thicknesses.

The main cause of cracks in self-leveling floors is the precariousness of the base of the floor and the violation of proportions when mixing the solution. Cracks up to 1 cm - embroidered, primed and puttied, more than two - it is best to refill the new floor.

Small debris - surface roughness.

Everything is simple here - before pouring, the base of the floor was not properly cleaned, when working with a spiked roller, small debris from the bottom was stirred up and lifted up. There is only one option to correct the situation - to grind the surface and arrange a finishing fill.

Well, that's all - it's time to finish. And so the article turned out to be not small. But now you know exactly how to properly repair the floor in the apartment with your own hands in stages. It remains only to act. Great luck to everyone!

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