Cnc machine aluminum profile drawings. Independent production of cnc machine. Works of the preparatory stage

Difficult to manufacture, in addition to technical components, it has electronic device, which can only be installed by a specialist. Contrary to this opinion, the ability to assemble a CNC machine with your own hands is great if you prepare the necessary drawings, diagrams and component materials in advance.

Carrying out preparatory work

When designing a CNC with your own hands at home, you need to decide according to which scheme it will work.

Often, a used one is taken as the basis of a future apparatus.

The drilling machine can be used as the basis for a CNC machine

It will require the replacement of the working head with a milling head.

The greatest difficulty in designing a CNC machine with your own hands is the creation of a device with which the working tool moves in three planes.

Partially solve the problem will help carriages taken from a conventional printer. The tool will be able to move in both planes. It is better to choose carriages for a CNC machine from a printer that has large dimensions.

Such a scheme allows you to later connect to the machine control. The downside is that the CNC milling machine only works with wood, plastic products, products made of thin metal. This is due to the fact that the printer carriages do not have the necessary rigidity.

Attention must be paid to the engine of the future unit. Its role is reduced to the movement of the working tool. The quality of work and the possibility of performing milling operations depend on this.

A good option for a homemade CNC router is stepper motor.

An alternative to such an engine is an electric motor, previously improved and adjusted to the standards of the device.

Anyone using a stepper motor allows you to not use a screw drive, this does not affect the capabilities of such a wood CNC in any way. It is recommended to use toothed belts for milling on such a unit. Unlike standard belts, they do not slip on pulleys.

It is required to correctly design the milling cutter of the future machine, for this you will need detailed drawings.

Materials and tools required for assembly

The general set of materials for a CNC machine includes:

cable 14–19 m long;
processing wood;
cutter chuck;
a frequency converter having the same power as the spindle;
bearings;
control board;
water pump;
cooling hose;
three stepping motors for three axes of movement of the structure;
bolts;
protective cable;
screws;
plywood, chipboard, wood board or metal structure to choose as the body of the future device;
soft clutch.

It is recommended that when making your own hands, use a spindle with coolant. This will allow you not to turn it off every 10 minutes to cool down. A home-made CNC machine is suitable for work, its power is at least 1.2 kW. The best option will be a device with a power of 2 kW.

The set of tools required for the manufacture of the unit includes:

hammers;
electrical tape;
assembly keys;
glue;
screwdriver
soldering iron, sealant;
grinder, it is often replaced with a hacksaw;
pliers, welding machine, scissors, pliers.

A simple CNC do-it-yourself machine

Procedure for assembling the machine

Homemade CNC milling machine is assembled according to the scheme:

production of drawings and diagrams of the device indicating the electrical system;
purchase of materials containing a future home-made CNC machine;
installation of a bed, engines, a working surface, a portal, a spindle will be mounted on it;
portal installation;
setting the Z axis;
fixing the working surface;
spindle installation;
installation of a water-cooling system;
installation of the electrical system;
connection of the board, with its help the device is controlled;
software setup;
start-up of the unit.

The basis for the bed is a material made of aluminum.

The frame must be made from aluminum

Profiles of this metal are selected with a section of 41 * 81 mm with a plate thickness of 11 mm. The body of the bed itself is connected using aluminum corners.

The installation of the portal will determine how thick the product can be processed by the CNC machine. Especially if it's handmade. The higher the portal, the thicker the product it can process. It is important not to install it too high, as this design will be less durable and reliable. The portal moves along the X axis and carries the spindle on itself.

An aluminum profile is used as a material for the working surface of the unit. Often take a profile with T-slots. For home use accept, its thickness is at least 17 mm.

After the frame of the device is ready, proceed to install the spindle. It is important to install it vertically, since in the future it will need to be adjusted, this is done to fix the required angle.

To install the electrical system, the presence of the following components is required:

power unit;
computer;
stepper motor;
pay;
stop button;
motor drivers.

The system requires an LPT port. In addition, it is installed that controls the operation of the apparatus and allows you to answer the question of how to perform this or that operation. The control is connected via motors to the milling machine itself.

After the electronics is installed on the machine, you will need to download the drivers and programs necessary for operation.

Common Build Mistakes

A common mistake when assembling a CNC machine is the lack of a drawing, but the assembly is carried out according to it. As a result, there are omissions in the design and installation of apparatus structures.

Often the incorrect operation of the machine is associated with incorrectly selected frequency converter and spindle.

For the correct operation of the machine, it is necessary to choose the right spindle

In many cases, stepper motors do not receive proper power, so a special separate power supply must be selected for them.

It must be taken into account that a correctly installed wiring diagram and software allows you to perform numerous operations of different levels of complexity on the device. Do-it-yourself CNC machine can be done by a middle-level master, the design of the unit has a number of features, but it is not difficult to assemble the parts with the help of drawings.

It is easy to work with a CNC, compiled with your own hands, you need to study the informative base, conduct a series of training work and analyze the condition of the unit and parts. Do not rush, pull moving parts or open the CNC.

Now a little more detail on the main assembly.

So, to assemble the frame, you will need the following components:

Profile sections 2020 (two longitudinal, 5 transverse, 2 vertical parts)
Profile corners 16 pcs
T-nuts M3 or M4 for groove-6mm
Screws for installation with T-nuts (M3 or M4 respectively, 8...10 mm, plus M3x12 for fastening motors)
Spacer (45° angle)
Tool (screwdriver)

Since I started talking about the profile, then just in case I duplicate about the purchase and cutting of the profile from Soberizavod

This is constructive.
I bought a set of profiles cut to size for 2418 right away.
There are two options - uncoated profile (cheaper) and coated (anodized). The difference in cost is small, I recommend coated, especially if used as roller guides.

Choose desired type profile 2020, then enter "cut to size". Otherwise, you can buy one piece (whip) for 4 meters. When calculating, keep in mind that the cost of one cut can be different, depending on the profile. And that 4 mm is laid on the cut.

Enter the dimensions of the segments. I made machine 2418 a little larger, these are seven pieces of 260 mm and two vertical pieces of 300 mm. Vertical can be made smaller. If you need a longer machine, then two longitudinal sections are larger, for example, 350 mm, transverse ones are also 260 mm each (5 pcs).

We confirm (must be added to the nesting map)

Checking the cart

The profile is obtained at 667r along with the cutting service.

Delivery is carried out by shopping mall, you can calculate the cost using the calculator, since you know the dimensions of the profile, the weight is very well calculated in the cutting chart. For the calculation, you need the option "cargo collection from the supplier". Delivery by business lines will cost less, about 1000 rubles.

Can be picked up by self in Moscow.

In one place there is an office, a warehouse and a workshop where the profile is cut to size. There is a showcase with samples, you can pick up a profile on the spot.

So let's start building the frame. desktop machine 2418.
Here is the cut profile.

In this design, I increased the Z axis (a little more than a couple of cm than others) in order to use the machine as a CNC drill.
In the original, the Z axis is the shortest. It is up to you to decide what your goals are. To lengthen the working field, you need to buy two sections of the profile (longitudinal pair) more by the desired length (for example, +10 cm), respectively, the guides (+10 cm for a pair of 8mm shafts) and the screw (+10 cm for the T8 screw) are lengthened. In terms of money, the voiced +10 cm comes out very cheap: the cost of a 10 + 10 cm profile is about 40 rubles, the guides and the screw will cost plus $ 6 (check).

Here are the corners prepared for assembly

This is how the T-nuts should be installed in the slot. You can not thread it from the end, but install it directly into the profile groove sideways, but then control the rotation and installation of the nut, since this does not always happen, some skill is needed.

Profile cut is clean, no burrs

Profile-twenty, that is, from the 2020 series, with a corresponding change of 20mm x 20mm, a groove of 6mm.

So, first we assemble the U-shaped part of the frame, we fasten two longitudinal parts of the profile and one extreme cross member. of great importance on which side there is no assembly, but keep in mind that there is a central crossbar that is shifted closer to the back. It is part of the vertical plane, and the size of the offset depends on the overhang of the Z-axis and the spindle. Placed in such a way that the axis of rotation of the spindle was in the center of the machine (Y axis).
Next, assemble the middle cross. It is more convenient to first install both corners on a section of the profile and fix it, and then install it to the frame.
We apply a section of the profile, measure the same distance with a ruler, tighten the screws. The screws must be tightened slowly, giving the T-nut time to turn and take its position in the groove. If it doesn't work the first time, loosen the nut again and repeat.

We install the last part of the horizontal frame. It is more convenient to crawl with a long screwdriver. Do not be lazy and check the right angles of the resulting structure with a square and a diagonal with a ruler.

Since the corners of the structure are directed towards each other, it does not matter in what order to assemble. I did as in the basic CNC2418 design. But intuition suggests that it makes sense to increase the distance between the profiles, especially with a higher portal height. Okay, that can be done later.

Next, we begin to assemble the mount of the vertical portal

We install the assembled portal on the horizontal part, fasten it with 6 corners (installed in the direction in three directions from the vertical profile).

We establish, observe the perpendicularity of the segments (along the square). Then I tightened all the screws one by one.

In the original, a special 45° extrusion angle is used to reinforce the vertical. I could not find a similar one for sale, I replaced it with a 3D printed one. The link to the model is at the end of the topic.
update A: turned out to be original 3D printed too.
If anything, you can replace it with perforated fasteners from stores, or furniture corners. It won't affect the quality in any way.

The design turned out at first glance strong, not shaky. It can be seen that the plate with the engine is shorter than the KP08 + SK8 caliper bundle. I will spread it wider.

In fact, this frame is a copy of a similar design of the CNC2418 machine, except that I did not directly copy the dimensions, I did a little more in order to have less trim from the guides and screws.

The assembly of the frame is completed, now you can start installing the engines. I use 3D printed flanges to mount motors. It is advisable to make the upper ones assembled with guide holders, the lower ones - without holders, since the Y-axis should be wider. It is advisable to install the Y axis on SK8 and KP08 calipers, as in the original machine. The calipers themselves can be printed on a printer or bought (links at the end of the topic, and were also in the first post).

For one of the axes (the X and Y axes are the same length for me), I took a “sighting” one. I did not yet know my “Wishlist” for the dimensions of the machine. As a result, the trimmings from the screw will go to the Z axis, you will only need to purchase a T8 brass nut.

Was packed in a cardboard box, inside each item in a bag separately

The kit looks like this: a motor with a short wire, a T8 lead screw, two KP08 calipers and two 5x8 couplings.

There is a similar and, as well as without an engine on (with calipers and a nut).
If you take without a large margin, then the 400 mm option will work well for the “larger version” of the machine

Additional information - photo of the kit separately

Engine marking RB Step Motor 42SHDC3025-24B-500, seat Nema17

Comes with a short cable for connection. Conveniently, you can simply increase the length without touching the connectors.

T8 screw, nut

Calipers KR08.

Easy to mount on the profile. If a wide flange is used for installation, then it is better to use the version of the KFL08 caliper, it allows you to mount the screw not on the profile, but on the flange.

Coupling 5x8 - a split coupling for connecting the motor shaft to the propeller.

This is how the engine is mounted in the original on the X axis. On a small aluminum plate.

I did the same, only with a printed plate. At the same time it will be a support for the guides.

I already cut off the excess length of the screw for the Z axis (the Z axis is in the process for now, the information will be separate, most likely also 3D printed).

Most likely it will be necessary to lengthen the wires of the motors in order to neatly route it along the profile in upper part to the electronics board (most likely it will be CNC Shield). Yes, and it would not hurt to install limit switches for extreme positions.
The basic information on the assembly is already there, you can start estimating the costs))))

Calculation
Now, as requested in the comments in the first part, I propose to discuss costing. Naturally, I spent less than indicated, since I had the engines and most of the components in stock. Strongly cheaper will be if you use home-made printed corners for the profile, calipers, flanges and so on. For the work of the machine for drilling printed circuit boards and milling soft materials this is unlikely to affect. More a good option- the use of perforated plates from construction / household stores. Suitable for reinforcing corners, including vertical ones and for installing an engine, provided that the central part is drilled under the shaft. In place of perforated fasteners, you can use self-made aluminum sheet or plywood.
Definitely a must buy profile 2020 otherwise it will be a completely different type of machine. You can do the same thing from an aluminum corner or a rectangular pipe, but only for the love of art))) There are more optimal designs in terms of rigidity for assembling from a corner / pipe.
Definitely needed for the profile T-nuts. You can buy T-bolts, but T-nuts are more versatile (as any length of screw can be used).
But the rest can be changed at your discretion, you can even instead of running screw T8 use hairpin from stainless steel. Unless the number of steps per mm will have to be recalculated in the firmware.
Engines can be removed from old devices / office equipment and plan seats already for a specific type.
Electronics almost any (Anduino UNO / Anduino Nano, CNCShield, Mega R3 + Ramps, A4988 / DRV8825 drivers, you can use an adapter board for Mach3 and TB6600 drivers. But the choice of electronics limits the software used.
For drilling, you can use any engine direct current, which allows you to install collet and has decent turnover. IN basic version there is a high-speed 775 engine. For milling, you can use 300 watt b / c spindles with an ER11 collet, but this greatly increases the cost of the machine as a whole.

Approximate costing:
profile 2020 (2.5 meters) = 667 rubles
profile 2080 (0.5 meters) to the desktop = 485 r
Two 300 mm 2x$25
. Lot of 20 pieces comes out to $5.5 with delivery
about 4r / piece if you take a large package. You need at least 50 pieces (mounting engines, calipers). I don’t count the screws for them, usually a few kopecks / piece, depending on the quality. Total about 400 ... 500 rubles.
Engines 3 pcs $8.25 each
Electronics $2
$3.5
A4988 three pieces for $1

The machine comes out around $111. If adding a spindle:
$9
$7.78,
That total cost about $128

3D printed parts I don't rate. Can be replaced with perforated plates / corners from crepe market and similar stores. Wires, electrical tape, the time spent also do not appreciate.
Let me remind you that not all CNC2418 configurations have such good 775 engines and, moreover, an ER11 collet.

Options cheaper.

Purelogic R&D offers to purchase a structural aluminum profile on favorable terms. It's durable and lightweight material for creating engineering systems of any complexity and purpose. The machine profile is used for the manufacture of the CNC machine bed. In addition, it is used to assemble personnel workstations, travel axes, XY tables, etc.

Structural aluminum profile is made using hot extrusion technology. It is obtained by extruding material through a special extruder die. Various aluminum alloys can be used as feedstock.

The most important advantage and main difference of a machine profile product is the ability to quickly change the design, build it up, rebuild and modernize it.

This section presents:

structural aluminum profile;
type-setting aluminum work tables of various sections;
aluminum corners;
cable channels.

The guide profile can be supplemented with various accessories:

vibration mounts;
end and slot plugs;
wheel supports;
end mounting plates.

Features of using a structural profile

Products made from high strength aluminum alloys and having a complex section, provide:

the possibility of rapid assembly and disassembly of structures. This allows you to quickly carry out repair work, various upgrades, and move equipment to a new location. It is possible to make changes to the created object at any stage of its readiness, which is especially important in the manufacture of special-purpose devices and various non-serial machines;
high strength of joints in the absence of welding;
optimal combination of light weight and strength characteristics. This is achieved through the use of wrought alloys based on aluminum and a complex cross-sectional configuration;
minimum labor and financial costs, efficiency of execution in the design and creation of structures of any complexity.

And so, within the framework of this article-instruction, I want you, together with the author of the project, a 21-year-old mechanic and designer, to make your own. The narration will be conducted in the first person, but know that, to my great regret, I am not sharing my experience, but only freely retelling the author of this project.

There will be a lot of drawings in this article, notes to them are made on English language, but I am sure that a real techie will understand everything without further ado. For ease of understanding, I will break the story into "steps".

Foreword from the author

Already at the age of 12, I dreamed of building a machine that would be able to create various things. A machine that will give me the ability to make any household item. Two years later, I came across the phrase CNC or more precisely, to the phrase "CNC milling machine". After I found out that there are people who can make such a machine on their own for their own needs, in their own garage, I realized that I could do it too. I must do it! For three months, I tried to collect the right parts, but did not budge. So my obsession gradually faded away.

In August 2013, the idea of building a CNC milling machine re-engaged me. I had just completed my bachelor's degree from the University of Industrial Design, so I was quite confident in my abilities. Now I clearly understood the difference between me today and me five years ago. I learned how to work with metal, mastered the techniques of working on manual metalworking machines, but most importantly, I learned how to use development tools. I hope this tutorial will inspire you to create your own CNC machine!

Step 1: Design and CAD Model

It all starts with thoughtful design. I made several sketches to get a better feel for the size and shape of the future machine. After that I created a CAD model using SolidWorks. After I modeled all the parts and assemblies of the machine, I prepared technical drawings. I used these drawings for the manufacture of parts on manual metalworking machines: and.

I'll be honest, I like good ones. handy tools. That is why I tried to make sure that the operations on maintenance and adjustment of the machine were made as easy as possible. I placed the bearings in special blocks in order to be able to quickly replace. The guides are serviceable so my car will always be clean when the job is done.

Downloads "Step 1"

dimensions

Step 2: Bed

The bed provides the machine with the necessary rigidity. It will be equipped with a movable portal, stepper motors, Z-axis and spindle, and later the work surface. I used two 40x80mm Maytec aluminum profiles and two 10mm thick aluminum end plates to create the base frame. I connected all the elements to each other on aluminum corners. To strengthen the structure inside the main frame, I made an additional square frame from profiles of a smaller section.

In order to avoid dust on the rails in the future, I installed aluminum protective corners. The angle is mounted using T-nuts, which are installed in one of the grooves of the profile.

Both end plates are fitted with bearing blocks for mounting the drive screw.

Carrier frame assembly

Corners to protect the rails

Downloads "Step 2"

Drawings of the main elements of the bed

Step 3: Portal

The movable portal is the executive body of your machine, it moves along the X axis and carries the milling spindle and the Z axis support. The higher the portal, the thicker the workpiece that you can process. However, a high gantry is less resistant to the loads that occur during processing. The high side posts of the portal act as levers relative to the linear rolling bearings.

The main task that I planned to solve on my CNC milling machine was the processing of aluminum parts. Since the maximum thickness of aluminum blanks suitable for me is 60 mm, I decided to make a portal clearance (the distance from the working surface to the top cross beam) equal to 125 mm. In SolidWorks, I converted all my measurements into a model and technical drawings. Due to the complexity of the parts, I processed them on an industrial CNC machining center, which additionally allowed me to process chamfers, which would be very difficult to do on a manual metal milling machine.

Downloads "Step 3"

Step 4: Z Axis Caliper

In the Z axis design, I used a front panel that attaches to the Y axis movement bearings, two plates to reinforce the assembly, a plate to mount the stepper motor, and a panel to mount the milling spindle. On the front panel, I installed two profile guides along which the spindle will move along the Z axis. Please note that the Z axis screw does not have a counter support at the bottom.

Downloads "Step 4"

Step 5: Guides

Guides provide the ability to move in all directions, ensure smooth and precise movements. Any play in one of the directions can cause inaccuracies in the processing of your products. I chose the most expensive option - profiled hardened steel rails. This will allow the structure to withstand high loads and provide the positioning accuracy I need. To ensure the guides are parallel, I used a special indicator during their installation. The maximum deviation relative to each other was no more than 0.01 mm.

Step 6: Screws and Pulleys

Screws convert rotational motion from stepper motors into linear motion. When designing your machine, you can choose from several options for this assembly: A screw-nut pair or a ball screw pair (ball screw). The screw nut, as a rule, is subjected to more frictional forces during operation, and is also less accurate relative to the ball screw. If you need increased accuracy, then you definitely need to opt for a ball screw. But you should know that ball screws are quite expensive.

The question of how to make a CNC machine can be answered briefly. Knowing that a home-made CNC milling machine, in general, is a complex device with a complex structure, it is desirable for the designer:

get drawings;
purchase reliable components and fasteners;
prepare a good tool;
have a CNC lathe and drill on hand to quickly produce.

It does not hurt to watch the video - a kind of instruction, teaching - where to start. And I’ll start with preparation, I’ll buy everything I need, I’ll deal with the drawing - here correct solution budding designer. Therefore, the preparatory stage preceding the assembly is very important.

Works of the preparatory stage

To make a homemade CNC for milling, there are two options:

You take a ready-made running set of parts (specially selected units), from which we assemble the equipment ourselves.
Find (make) all the components and start assembling the CNC machine with your own hands, which would meet all the requirements.

It is important to decide on the purpose, size and design (how to do without a drawing homemade machine CNC), find schemes for its manufacture, purchase or manufacture some of the parts that are needed for this, acquire lead screws.

If a decision is made to create a CNC machine with your own hands and do without ready-made sets of components and mechanisms, fasteners, you need the scheme assembled according to which the machine will work.

Usually, finding circuit diagram devices, first they model all the details of the machine, prepare technical drawings, and then use them on the turning and milling machines(sometimes it is necessary to use drilling) make components from plywood or aluminum. Most often, work surfaces (also called a desktop) are plywood with a thickness of 18 mm.

Assembly of some important machine components

In the machine that you started to assemble with your own hands, it is necessary to provide for a number of critical nodes that ensure the vertical movement of the working tool. In this list:

screw transmission - rotation is transmitted using a toothed belt. It is good because it does not slip on the pulleys, evenly transferring forces to the shaft of the milling equipment;
if a stepper motor (SM) is used for a mini-machine, it is advisable to take a carriage from a larger printer model - more powerful; old dot matrix printers had fairly powerful electric motors;

for a three-coordinate device, you need three step motors. Well, if there are 5 control wires in each, the functionality of the mini-machine will increase. It is worth evaluating the magnitude of the parameters: supply voltage, winding resistance and the rotation angle of the stepper motor in one step. To connect each stepper motor, a separate controller is needed;
with the help of screws, the rotational movement from the stepper motor is converted into a linear one. To achieve high accuracy, many consider it necessary to have ball screws (ball screws), but this component is not cheap. When choosing a set of nuts and mounting screws for mounting blocks, they are chosen with plastic inserts, this reduces friction and eliminates backlash;

instead of a stepper motor, you can take a conventional electric motor, after a little refinement;
vertical axis, which provides movement of the tool in 3D, covering the entire coordinate table. It is made from aluminum plate. It is important that the dimensions of the axis are adjusted to the dimensions of the device. In the presence of a muffle furnace, the axis can be cast according to the dimensions of the drawings.

Below is a drawing made in three projections: side, rear, and top view.

Maximum attention - bed

The necessary rigidity to the machine is provided by the frame. A movable portal, a system of rail guides, SD, work surface, Z axis and spindle.

For example, one of the creators of a home-made CNC machine made the supporting frame from aluminum profile Maytec - two parts (section 40x80 mm) and two end plates 10 mm thick from the same material, connecting the elements with aluminum corners. The design is reinforced, inside the frame a frame is made of smaller profiles in the shape of a square.

The bed is mounted without the use of welded joints (welds are poorly able to withstand vibration loads). It is better to use T-nuts as fasteners. On the end plates, a bearing block is provided for installing the lead screw. You will need a plain bearing and a spindle bearing.

The craftsman determined the main task of the hand-made CNC machine to be the manufacture of aluminum parts. Since workpieces with a maximum thickness of 60 mm were suitable for him, he made a portal clearance of 125 mm (this is the distance from the upper transverse beam to the working surface).

This difficult installation process

It is better to assemble home-made CNC machines, after preparing the components, strictly according to the drawing, so that they work. The assembly process, using lead screws, should be performed in the following sequence:

a knowledgeable craftsman begins by attaching the first two step motors to the body - behind the vertical axis of the equipment. One is responsible for horizontal movement milling head(rail guides), and the second for moving in a vertical plane;
a movable gantry moving along the x-axis carries the milling spindle and carriage (z-axis). The higher the portal, the larger the workpiece can be processed. But at a high portal, in the process of processing, resistance to emerging loads decreases;

front, rear, top, middle and bottom plates are used to fasten Z-axis stepper motors, linear guides. In the same place, make a lodgement for the milling spindle;
the drive is assembled from carefully selected nuts and studs. To fix the motor shaft and attach it to the stud, use the rubber winding of a thick electric cable. Screws inserted into the nylon sleeve can be used as a retainer.

Then the assembly of the remaining components and assemblies of the homemade begins.

We mount the electronic filling of the machine

To make a CNC machine with your own hands and control it, you need to operate with a properly selected numerical control, high-quality printed circuit boards and electronic components (especially if they are Chinese), which will allow you to implement everything on a CNC machine functionality, processing a part of a complex configuration.

In order to avoid problems in management, home-made CNC machines, among the nodes, have the following mandatory:

stepper motors, some stopped like Nema;
LPT port through which the CNC control unit can be connected to the machine;
drivers for controllers, they are installed on a mini-milling machine, connected in accordance with the diagram;

switching boards (controllers);
a 36V power supply unit with a step-down transformer that converts to 5V to power the control circuit;
laptop or PC;
emergency stop button.

Only after that, the CNC machines are tested (at the same time, the craftsman will make a test run by downloading all the programs), the existing shortcomings are identified and eliminated.

Instead of a conclusion

As you can see, making a CNC that is not inferior to Chinese models is real. Having made a set of spare parts with the right size, having high-quality bearings and enough fasteners for assembly, this task is within the power of those who are interested in software engineering. It won't take long to find an example.

In the photo below - some samples of machine tools with numerical control, which are made by the same craftsmen, not professionals. Not a single part was made hastily, of arbitrary size, but fitting the block with great accuracy, with careful alignment of the axes, using high-quality lead screws and with reliable bearings. The statement is true: as you collect, so you will work.

On the CNC, processing of an duralumin blank is performed. Such a machine, which was assembled by a craftsman, can perform a lot of milling work.