Installing table legs. How to fix legs for kitchen furniture adjustable. Video - Making a dining table for a summer residence

A steel bath is much lighter than a cast iron bath, for this reason it will be much easier to transport and install it. The weight of such equipment is small, therefore it cannot be installed in the center of the bathroom without relying on the walls. First you need to install steel bath on the legs. Reliable and stable legs for a steel bath - those that follow the contour of the bottom of the product itself, in addition, it is desirable that they be self-adhesive.

Some manufacturers include bolted steel bath supports in the installation kit. But this set of fasteners is not harmless for the surface of the products, because it can damage the enamel layer. In case of excessive load, the enamel may crack in the fastening area. In addition, the “regular” legs of bathtubs from some manufacturers, alas, do not differ in quality. Therefore, it is preferable to purchase universal legs for a steel bath on a self-adhesive basis.

Generally speaking, the installation of metal plumbing equipment is practically no different from the installation of cast iron (besides, of course, that they are easier to move). But there are still some differences.

Features of mounting a steel bath

Due to the large weight and massiveness, cast iron bathtubs can be installed in the middle of the bathroom, but the installation of a steel product in the same way is impossible: the bath must necessarily adjoin three walls.

Based on this, you first need to install a bath, and then lay the wall tiles. For the free passage of the bath between the walls, the distance from one wall to another should be equal to the linear dimensions of the product, plus five to six millimeters.

We fasten the legs

How to fix the legs of a steel bath? So, we have already decided on what is best on a self-adhesive basis. Such supports have the shape of the letter "P" with some deflection at the base. They have screws for adjustment with plastic tips. The most reliable set of legs for a steel bath has small feet and longer adjusting bolts.

Since metal products are not very weighty and can tip over under the weight of water or the weight of a person, additional support can be made for them in the form of masonry blocks or bricks. Naturally, this support is installed from the outside of the equipment.

After carrying out all the basic work on installing a plumbing fixture, the brick is tiled, so its original appearance does not play a special role. If you intend to make such a support, be sure to leave space below for free access to the siphon.

To install the legs on steel bath the following operations must be carried out:

Training

It is necessary to prepare a place for the installation of equipment. It is immediately necessary to organize the conclusions for the sewer drain and the future mixer. The next step is to treat the walls with moisture-proofing agents. If the corners between the walls are not straight, they need to be leveled. After that, you can proceed to the installation of a plumbing fixture.

Leg mounting

First you need to turn the bath upside down. In order not to scratch the enamel layer, it is better to use cardboard or a layer of foam rubber as a substrate. When buying a product in a cardboard package, you can simply leave it on.
Legs for metal bath first you need to try on the places of future installation. One pair of legs should be installed at a distance of approximately two centimeters from the outlet towards the center of the product.
The second pair of legs is placed close to the second edge of the equipment.

Tip: In order for the legs to fit very well to the bottom, you can manually trim the depth of the deflection of the channel. In any case, it is advisable to do such a procedure not under the bath, but somewhere on the sidelines on the substrate.

At the joints of the product, its surface must be degreased with undiluted alcohol or acetone. After that, you need to remove the protective layer from the lining, put the legs in the right places and press hard to the bottom of the equipment. It is also advisable to degrease the mounting points with alcohol, but in no case use a solvent.

Tip: In order for the protective layer to easily come off the lining, it can be heated with a building or ordinary household hair dryer.

The threaded studs for adjustment must be carefully and slowly driven all the way into the plastic tips, while making sure that the thread is not damaged. If you do not have a rubber mallet, then it is better to tighten the complete nuts on the studs before driving. After that, the nuts must be screwed up to the tips, and the studs must be screwed into the points assigned to them on the support.
In order to avoid incidents, you immediately need to evaluate the parameters of the door to the bathroom, because it can be narrow. In this case, it will not be possible to bring equipment with attached legs into the room without damaging the legs. Then it is desirable to attach the legs already in the bathroom itself.

Leveling the bathtub

After installing the product in the right place, do not forget that the height of the steel bath with legs must be at the same level on all sides. To do this, you can use the level and in case of a height discrepancy on one side of the equipment and the other, simply adjust it using the adjustment screws on the legs themselves.
Further, in the corners between the sides of the bathtub and the walls, four narrow wooden wedges must be hammered. The gaps between the edge of the steel equipment and the wall should be filled with special mounting foam from a gun. After it has completely solidified, it is necessary to pull out the wooden wedges.
To ensure that water is not poured under the bath, on top of polyurethane foam, in level with the sides of the product, you can put a layer of silicone.

Conclusion

Upon completion of all stages, the place under the plumbing equipment can be bricked, or you can simply install a decorative sliding screen. Then the installation metal product can be considered completed.

It is simply impossible to imagine a kitchen without a table that performs two functions at once, one of them is eating, the second is cooking. You can buy this piece of furniture in any store of relevant goods, but it is not always possible to choose the model that will be suitable for the dimensions and design of a particular room, so it is better to make a table with your own hands.

Figure 1. Dining wooden table you can do it yourself, so you can make it the size and shape you need.

On fig. 1 you can see the design of the table, which will be discussed in the example. For the process of work, you can rent everything necessary equipment for wood processing, avoiding its acquisition. As a result, you can get not only an original, but also a sturdy table that will fit into the interior, decorated in any style.

Tools and materials:

acrylic composition;
putty;
timber;
furniture plate;
fastening accessories;
jigsaw;
wood glue;
clamp;
Sander.

Preparation before starting work

Tools for making a table: jigsaw, drill, self-tapping screws, tape measure, ruler, pencil.

In order to make a table with your own hands, you need to prepare a furniture plate, the thickness of which can be equal to the limit of 40-45 mm, while its width can vary from 600 to 800 mm, the length of the plate can be any, but traditionally it is 1200-1400 mm . As a countertop, it is permissible to use the corresponding element for the kitchen set, adjusting it to the desired dimensions. If it is not possible to purchase a solid countertop, then it is permissible to replace it with a set of boards that are to be glued.

The legs can be made using a bar that has square section, equal to 60x60 mm or 70x70 mm. The legs can be figured wooden or steel products. The structure will become rigid thanks to the beam, the cross section of which is 40x40 mm, and the length should be such that it is possible to circle the countertop around the perimeter. Making a table using fixing accessories, it can be represented different models, you will also need fasteners, namely bolts, screws and nuts.

Table manufacturing technology

Boards and timber must be marked to the desired length and sawn into blanks.

Before you make a table, you have to think about what design it will have, what technical solutions will be used in the process of its manufacture, how it can then be decorated, these components will allow you to get a full-fledged aesthetic piece of furniture. This stage involves drawing up a sketch according to certain dimensions of the structure.

For the table, you need to choose the type of countertop, which will be the easiest to make for the master, and the one that will look most harmonious in the interior of the room. There are two types of countertops, one of which is simple, the second - a high degree aesthetics and originality.

If you prefer a tabletop made on the basis of glued laminated timber for a table, then it will act as the most simple option structures, excluding the tabletop based on the finished furniture board.

In order to make a tabletop from a bar, you have to use a saw, which can be replaced by electrical equipment: a jigsaw, a sawmill, etc.

Corners are used to fasten the legs.

The beam must be cut into blanks, giving it the required length. And then you can make a thorough processing of the mating surfaces. This procedure may involve grinding.

The ends of the blanks must be covered with glue for working on wood, strengthened with clamps on a flat base until complete drying. Once the countertop is ready, its surface must be carefully sanded by hand or using grinder, then you have to chamfer the perimeter and round the corners.

The second type of countertop can be decorated with tiles, which can give the product high aesthetic and consumer qualities. In the manufacturing process, it is permissible to use a solid array of wood, which can be replaced with a solid furniture board. The inner part of the countertop must be removed to a depth that is equivalent to the thickness of the tile, while it should be taken into account that the adhesive layer also has its own thickness, which will appear when laying the products. In order to achieve even greater aesthetics, it is permissible to form a border located around the perimeter of the table top, equal to 70 mm. You can more accurately calculate the size of the border, taking into account the dimensions tiles. It is possible to carry out work to remove a layer of wood, for example, with a chisel or by means of a manual milling method.

Using the traditional Bustilat glue, tiles can be laid on the formed base, while its height should coincide with the height of the curb. As soon as the glue dries, you can continue the manufacturing process of the structure.

To connect the legs of the table and the table top, use self-tapping screws or special fittings.

At the stage of fixing the table legs, you will have to use mounting hardware. In advance, it is necessary to drill holes on the legs, the diameter of which should be 1 mm smaller than the corresponding size of the screws. Now you can fix the fittings on the legs.

The next step will be to increase the rigidity characteristics of the future structure, for this inside countertops along the perimeter with self-tapping screws, you should fix the prepared bar, which will act as the side of the table. The installation of the timber must be carried out after marking, providing sufficient space for the legs. Then you can match the legs and mounting hardware to the tabletop and drawer side.

Table surface decoration

Applying tile to countertops.

Making a table with your own hands, at the last stage you have to finally decorate the structure. Before this process, all elements must be carefully sanded to get rid of the most minor roughness. Finishing also allows you to show the unique natural structure of wood.

Before you make a table with your own hands, you need to choose the right wood, which must be of high quality, be well dried right technology. Otherwise, the design will change its linear dimensions over time. This can happen when wood with high content moisture. Over time, it will begin to evaporate and deform the table. But even well-dried wood must be protected from external negative factors, because the kitchen is characterized by conditions with high humidity. In addition, the table is often used for cooking, which may be accompanied by exposure of the countertop to substances harmful to wood.

After the completion of the manufacturing process, the table with your own hands must be varnished, which can be replaced with wax. Wood is not always devoid of flaws or knots, which must be treated with putty, and then sanded and decorated with an acrylic compound.

The surface of all elements of the table itself will have to be varnished in several layers. The more there are, the more attractive it will be. appearance finished product.

After all work on sawing wood is completed, you should carefully remove working room, especially for the stage of painting or varnishing. After all, dustiness can cause poor quality staining. The next step is drying, which must be carried out under conditions warm room. You can choose a varnish that will be able to give the wood the desired shade and look of precious species. In addition, it will provide good protection elements from damage and wear.

Making a children's table

Before you make a table with your own hands for a nursery, you should prepare a solid array that will form the basis of the tabletop. You will need blanks for legs from a bar with a section of 40x40 mm. At the heart of the power frame will be 4 bars. Model children's table may be equal to 500 mm or higher.

Compound structural elements should be made according to the “groove-thorn” principle, for this reason, grooves must be formed by means of end mills in the places where the legs are attached. Why is it necessary to mark the places for the grooves, combining paired elements, and then in the right place it is necessary to equip blind hole. Its diameter should be equivalent to the thickness of the groove, while its depth is usually equal to 1/3 of the body of the workpiece. Now you can fix the leg blank in the clamp, and then, using the end mill installed at low speeds of the electric drill, proceed to the selection of wood until a groove of the required size is formed.

The ruler will allow you to measure the resulting grooves and mark the spikes on the bars for the power frame, which can then be formed. Now you can make a control assembly. Measuring tools will allow you to check the angles between the elements. Then you need to mark the blanks and disassemble the table. Joiner's glue will help fix the mating elements. After waiting for the frame to dry, it is necessary to strengthen the countertop to it. Why in the center of the legs you need to drill a blind hole for the furniture pin. Next, you need to mark the positions of the spikes on the reverse side of the countertop by drilling counter holes.

In this case, it is also necessary to make a preliminary fitting, only then the parts can be processed with glue and attached.

Any of these tables can be adjusted to the size of a nursery or dining room, the main thing is to make accurate measurements and make a strong pairing, then the design will serve its owners for a long time.

When pinning wooden tabletop take into account two important points. Fasteners should not only provide reliable connection table top with a body, but also to allow the tabletop to freely change its size during expansion and shrinkage. By putting the cover on glue or tightly screwing it with screws, you are on own experience learn a painful lesson when seasonal wood deformations make furniture unusable.

In this article, we will talk about five proven ways correct installation do-it-yourself tabletops Due to their simplicity and reliability, these fastening options are used not only for furniture made of glued wood and solid wood, but also for kitchen worktops made of MDF and chipboard, for which the problem of warping and cracking is not so relevant.

On the Structural Effect of Seasonal Deformations

Any board, be it a glued board or a solid piece of wood, is subject to swelling and shrinkage depending on the season and humidity fluctuations. Tightly fixed countertops, deprived of the ability to freely contract and expand, under the influence of internal stresses begin to deform - warp, bend, twist and eventually crack.

With seasonal changes in moisture levels, wood expands and contracts predominantly across the grain. Countertops of a room or kitchen set change their width within 1 cm, depending on the size of the lid and the type of wood. Linear changes along the fibers are insignificant.

Fixing the tabletop with screws

This is a simple and time-tested option for attaching the tabletop to the side of the table without the use of additional fittings. The special taper extension chosen in the drawer side allows for a slight movement of the screw when changing the dimensions of the tabletop. The lid itself is securely attached to the case.

Having made the basic markup, an end hole is drilled in the drawer. After this wide semicircular chisel choose a pocket for hidden installation screw.

A narrow chisel makes an angular expansion on the upper edge of the tsarga. The lengthening of this groove is always made across the fibers of the countertop, since the wood expands and contracts in this direction.

Mounting with screws in such pockets allows you to get rid of unnecessary structural elements under the table top. It is traditionally used in furniture classical style where they prefer to use exclusively wooden parts. With all its advantages, this method of hidden fastening is quite laborious.

Using small metal Z-brackets is another popular way to secure a countertop. The main advantages of this method are low cost, maximum simplicity and accuracy of installation, no need for additional structural elements.

One end of the steel holder is screwed to the table top with a screw. The second is inserted into the groove sawn in the upper edge of the tsarga. The recess is made in such a way that the edge of the bracket does not rest against the tree and moves freely in the groove when it expands. Thus, fasteners allow the countertop to change its dimensions in any direction without consequences.

Mounting on wooden clamps

Using homemade wooden clamps is simple and reliable way fastening the tabletop to the underframe without purchased fittings. Clamps work on the same principle as metal Z-brackets. They are easy to mass-produce from scraps that can be found in every workshop. Of course, this takes time, but often not much more than a trip to the hardware store takes.

When making wood clamps, remember to follow the correct grain orientation as shown in the diagram to give the bracket proper strength.

Figure-of-eight steel fasteners are another popular hardware option used to fasten countertops. The bracket is installed in a small recess drilled with a Forstner drill or a square recess selected with a chisel so that it is flush with the upper edge of the drawer. The holder is fixed with two screws: one to the body, the second to back side tabletops as shown in the photo. When the board swells or shrinks, the bracket rotates slightly, preventing the wooden cover from bending. The recommended distance between fasteners is 15-20 cm.

G-8 holders are of two types: with washers of the same and different sizes. In the latter case, a washer with a large diameter is attached to the tsarga. Having decided to fix the countertop on a kitchen or room set in this way, you need to make sure in advance that the thickness of the drawer fits the diameter of the washer.

Using slotted spacers

In this case, two or three additional spacers with rectangular grooves 10-15 mm long are attached to the side of the headset. When changing the width of the tabletop, the screws will move freely in the grooves, thus preventing structural deformations of the wood. Additional slats work like a screed, they increase the rigidity of the body and protect the sides from deformation.

Table leg fixing

The legs of the table are attached to the sides of the supporting frame, and the table top is fixed on them. In order to ensure a tight connection of the side with the legs and compensate for the shrinkage of the tree during humidity fluctuations, the following fastening methods are used.

Joiner's connection thorn-nest

Advantages : high strength, no additional fittings and unnecessary fasteners, ease of manufacture.

Perhaps the main attribute of a dining room or kitchen is the kitchen dining table. When choosing any furniture for a small-sized kitchen of a typical city apartment, you have to compromise between the free space in the room and the spaciousness, convenience of the furniture, this fully applies to the choice of the table. It is not easy to find a small kitchen table with the desired shape of the countertop in stores; custom-made promises considerable additional costs. There is a worthy way out - to make a table with your own hands.

For a room with an area of 6-8 sq.m, probably the most successful size of the countertop will be in the range from 800x500 mm to 1200x600 mm, with standard height 750 mm from the floor. The elongated shape of the tabletop - oval or rectangular - allows you to place the table along the wall, saving free space.

Selection and purchase of materials and accessories.

When making a kitchen table, it would be the right decision to use a factory-made material intended for the same purpose, namely a post-forming chipboard tabletop. These countertops covered with wear-resistant decorated plastic are used in the furniture industry in the manufacture of kitchen sets, is supplied as sheets approx. 3 m long, 600 mm wide, 26 mm or 36 mm thick (as standard). Postforming countertops are inexpensive. Their front overhang (end) has an aesthetic semicircular shape and is also covered with plastic. Standard fittings are produced for them: end and connecting strips, edge for end processing, screeds, etc.
Buy a whole canvas kitchen worktop only for the sake of one-third of its length is not necessary. The right piece can always be found (buy for a proportional fee) in furniture workshops, where they accumulate in large quantities as leftovers from the production of kitchen sets. There, in furniture shop, you can ask to immediately cut the part on a panel saw to obtain a rectangular workpiece with the desired dimensions.

Postforming tabletop.

However, chipboard-tops have one feature - they have only one or two overhangs covered with plastic along the length of the canvas. For us, for the table, it is necessary to have all the ends processed (from all sides). For this reason, it will not be possible to use ready-made kitchen worktops directly (without end processing). Not only that, you have to cut off the front factory overhang. The open ends of chipboard must be processed taking into account protection against water ingress, not forgetting the aesthetic appeal of the processing. There are two main ways: apply (glue) a special edge tape or use PVC-based furniture edging. We will follow the second path, as the most practical and forgiving master from an operational point of view. We will use furniture edging with sides (girths), this will not only give the countertop a more solid appearance, but also give additional protection. A piece of edging of the desired length can be bought at the store furniture fittings. Requires a T-shaped (with a central spike) PVC edging with girths, for Chipboard thickness 25 mm or 32 mm. When buying a 25th edge, you must first make sure that it can be put on a 26mm butt without any problems. The use of the 32nd edge is also quite acceptable and gives the countertop a visually greater thickness.

T-edging with girths (sides) in the section.

Another important point- legs (supports). To date, there is a wide choice of both piece supports and ready-made bases for tables. The most common solution can be considered a round leg with a height of 710 mm and a diameter of 60 mm. The legs of this type are collapsible, adjustable in height, have low price, easy to install, available in several options for external coating (shiny, matt, painted in various colors). If necessary, transportation or compact storage of the table, it can be easily disassembled. Legs are also sold in specialized furniture stores. As a rule, the manufacturer packs them in packs of 4 pieces unassembled. When purchasing a whole pack, a hex key must be included.

Set for making a table: a piece of kitchen worktop, four legs, edging.

Table making process.

About, and what tools are needed for this, it has already been described in detail, we will not repeat ourselves, we will briefly list the main stages and dwell on some of the nuances.

Step 1. Apply the markup. On the front (working) surface of the tabletop, we mark with a pencil according to the design of the future table. All roundings must be made with a radius of at least 60 mm, in order to avoid discoloration of the edge in places of sharp bends (depending on the manufacturer of the edge).

Applying markings for rounding corners on the front surface of a rectangular workpiece.

Step 2. We give shape. according to the markup, leaving a small margin of 2-3 mm, cut off the excess. A jigsaw file should have a reverse (reverse) direction of the teeth (see the article about), in order to avoid chipping the plastic coating, even though the edge with its girths can partially hide small cut chips. We bring the contours of the tabletop to the exact match with the markings with a belt-type grinder.

Cutting corners with a jigsaw and finishing with a belt sander.

Step 3. We mill the groove. Depending on whether the edge is used exactly along the width of the tabletop (25 mm) or more (32 mm), the groove is milled exactly in the center of the end, or with an offset. The exact milling parameters are calculated after measuring the geometry of the applied edge with a caliper. In the absence of a "native" cutter with which you can make the desired slot width in one pass, you can perform multi-pass milling using a cutter with a lower tooth height.

Measuring the edge with a caliper: internal width and thickness of the stud.

Milling a groove for a 32 mm edge in a 26 mm thick worktop (the groove is offset downwards relative to the center of the end face).

Step 4. We fill the piping. Before stuffing the edging, the end of the tabletop must be covered silicone sealant. It will not be superfluous to lay the sealant in the groove, and also apply it to the upper side (girth) of the edge, directly adjacent to working surface countertops. Thus, maximum protection against water ingress will be ensured. The stuffing of the piping is done with a rubber mallet, starting from the place where the joint seam will be least visible. After the stuffing is completed, the ends of the piping are precisely joined using a sharp knife. The last operation will be a complete excess of sealant from the surfaces of the countertop, squeezed out during stuffing. The tabletop is ready.

Applying sealant to chipboard end. It is enough to apply only on the upper half, which is above the groove.

Kant stuffing. When fixing the tabletop with struvtsins (as in the photo), you need to take care of the gaskets under the tabletop to prevent damage to the lower, protruding edge of the edge.

Step 5 We fasten the legs. To fasten the legs (exactly speaking, their cast holders), we apply a pencil marking on the underside of the tabletop in the form of two perpendicular lines at the attachment point of each holder. Usually, good option is to install the legs at a distance of about 100 mm from the edge of the tabletop (see photo). The holders can be fixed with self-tapping screws 20-25 mm long with a countersunk head. It remains to put the legs on the holders, fixing them with a hex key, and the dining table for the kitchen is completely ready, you can use it.

Marking for fixing the leg holders.

The table is ready.

Table with oval top.

The design of the kitchen table from a postforming tabletop is simple, unpretentious, accessible for self-manufacturing, reliable. However, it must be remembered that with careless handling - strong blow along the leg in the lateral direction - there is a possibility of breaking the holder, made of a relatively brittle alloy. With careful handling and proper care, the table will last for many years.

Now about the ways of attaching the legs to the table or bed. At the same time, I will focus on the methods that are the simplest in execution and ensure long-term operation of the table (bed).

As you know, a standard table consists of a tabletop (cover), legs, drawers, prolegs, as well as elements for fastening the legs to the drawers, and the tabletop to the table base. The attachment points for the legs are shown on rice. 9. The classic and most time-consuming method of fastening. Here, the junction of the legs with the drawers is assembled with glue and is non-separable. On the rice. 9b a simplified version of the classic method of fastening the legs is presented using not a wooden, but a metal cracker, as well as a bolt. Su-har is made of a steel plate with a thickness of 5 ... 8 mm. It is more technologically advanced to strengthen this metal plate on the sides with the help of screws ( rice. 9, in).
Rice. 9. Connection of legs with drawers: 1- leg; 2- kings; 3- cracker; 4- bolt; 5 - screw.
In the last two cases, the legs are not connected to the sides, but are only pressed against them. In the case of installing turned legs, for example, cuttings for shovels, use the mount shown in rice. 9, city In a word, on fig.,9 for tables of classical design, the simplest and most reliable ways of attaching legs are given. Now a little about installing buttocks for beds. Option of legs that are fixed on the harness ( wooden frame), beds, led-den on rice. 10, a. It is clear that for the middle protrusion provided between the sidewalls of the legs, it is necessary to select a socket in the strapping bar from below. Often the legs are formed on a cross-section passing under the bed harness (Fig. 10,. b).
Rice. 10. Variants of bed legs: a- frame with leg; b- cross member with a leg; 1- leg; 2- strapping.
The variety of frames and backs of beds suggests, in fact, a lot of options for attaching legs and is determined by the design of the bed.
In conclusion, about the tools.
Since most often a single copy of the product has to be made for a house or a summer residence, it is necessary to purchase or manufacture expensive complex tools; (especially specialized) is not economically profitable. The above material is designed for use hand planer, jointer or semi-joiner. Of course, if it is possible to use an electric planer, then this will speed things up. You also need to have a set of two or three chisels of different thicknesses and widths, and for cutting nests and spikes you will need a reward saw (Fig. 11a). Of course, the probability of meeting an award in modern stores is small, but hacksaws with a wide blade and a butt (a metal stiffener located on top of the blade) are now in stores (Fig. 11.6).She is useful for the formation of grooves and in the manufacture of other products. An electric drill with nozzles will not be superfluous, it is now an element for household irreplaceable and useful.

Rice. 11. Legs: a - reward; b - with a butt.
All other operations can be done with the usual set of home tools. To him, it’s true, you still need desire and ingenuity, and their Russian people don't bother.
Semenchenko V. Joiner's work No. 1. // Do-It-Yourself Almanac. - 2004, No. 3.