MDF has already managed to take a strong position in the field of furniture production. Unique properties This material allows you to implement any design ideas, to produce interior items that are not only aesthetically attractive, but also very practical.

High performance characteristics of finished products are given by decorative and protective materials used for them. exterior finish. The most popular finishing technology today is painting MDF with special coatings.

Advantages of painted products

Furniture facades carry not only a functional load, but are also the most important aesthetic component of any interior. PVC films, stylized as precious woods or natural veneer, are ideal for creating furniture in classical style, but painting MDF allows you to create products in completely different styles.

The advantages of this technology include:

huge variety of colors;
choice of textures (gloss, dullness);
excellent decorative qualities;
a variety of types of coatings (polyester, polyurethane, polyurethane-acrylic, nitrocellulose, water-based and UV curing materials);
excellent protective properties;
coating durability;
resistance to mechanical damage, temperature extremes, exposure to chemical elements;
environmental friendliness and safety.

A good illustration of the strength of painted facades is this video:

The choice of paintwork material

The durability of painted facades directly depends on two main criteria: compliance with the painting technology and the quality of paintwork materials. When choosing a material, be sure to take into account:

type of furniture structures;
polymer layer thickness;
requirements for wear resistance, heat resistance, resistance to chemical elements;
decorative;
service life of the coating.

LKM have different technological properties, therefore they are selected taking into account the functional load of a particular piece of furniture.

The characteristics of the material are of extreme importance for the quality of work. painting work, and it does not matter whether they will be carried out by hand or in production conditions. These characteristics include:

Hiding power. This property determines the number of necessary layers of colorant needed to completely cover the contrast substrate. There are materials that allow you to completely cover the substrate in just one layer. They are more expensive, but much less expensive.
Drying time. An important technological parameter that determines the speed of painting. However, the time indicated in the instructions for the material most often does not correspond to the actual drying time, which depends on many factors, such as air temperature, room humidity, substrate temperature, etc.
Adhesion. A high level of adhesion is a must to ensure good quality paintwork. To achieve maximum performance, it is necessary to properly prepare the base and strictly follow the technology of applying coatings.
Viscosity parameters. The paint must have a certain consistency so that it can be qualitatively applied to the surface. Thixotropic additives are introduced into materials that are too viscous, which increase their fluidity, while helping to avoid smudges.
Environmental friendliness. Many paints contain harmful substances, but there are also safe materials for coating facades, which are recommended to be preferred.

Technological conditions for painting facades

Modern equipment, qualified personnel and strict adherence to technology are the three main criteria that guarantee the most competent organization of the production process and high quality of finished products.

An important role is played by climatic conditions and the area of the spray booths. If the products are produced in small volumes, MDF painting can be carried out in small spaces, and with significant volumes, efficient and convenient operation requires appropriately sized chambers.

In the painting room, regardless of the season, constant temperature conditions (23-25˚С) and a certain level of humidity must be observed.

The technology of coloring products involves preparatory work, applying coatings and performing intermediate operations. paints and varnishes, equipment and facades must have the same temperature as in the painting room.

Paints, varnishes and primers for painting MDF facades are produced ready for use. Before the painting process, all these products are filtered (filter density - 50-100 microns), and the filtration process is especially important for coatings that form gloss. When storing filtered coatings for more than 2 months, they are filtered again before use.

The process of painting furniture facades

Do-it-yourself facade painting

Self-updating the kitchen set can be done in two ways: paste over the facades self-adhesive film or paint them with a special enamel. The first method is cheaper, but painting is a more effective solution in terms of furniture durability and greater aesthetic appeal.

If the second option is preferable, then the process of transforming the kitchen should begin with the preparation of the necessary materials and tools. So, you will need:

reliable, wear-resistant and durable enamel (for example, car enamel fully complies with these requirements);
wood primer;
hand grinder or sandpaper;
spray gun or soft brush and velor roller;
building hair dryer (if necessary).

The order of work is as follows:

Initially, it is necessary to free the facades from all available fittings and glass;
If the old MDF facades are laminated with PVC film, then it must be completely removed. This is what a hair dryer is for. When heated, the film peels off and is easily removed;
The surface is carefully sanded and primed twice. After each layer of primer has dried, the facades are again polished with fine sandpaper;
Do-it-yourself painting of furniture elements with a roller or brush is carried out in one direction. When applying the material with a spray gun, the quality of the finished surface will be higher, however, this method will require a special room. The paint is applied in 2-3 coats with 24 hour intervals for each coat to dry.

Greetings comrades. I won’t discover America if I say that MDF furniture, wall panels and other forms of application this material firmly entered our lives. But what if you don't like their color? Painting MDF panels can make a difference, but not all paints are suitable for this. And if so, then for sure you want to ask: which ones are suitable and what is the price of the solution? This is what we will find out now.

Material Feature

Sawing, cutting, milling, drilling, perforating and, of course, painting. It is for this set of qualities that MDF made from wood waste. All these operations are not particularly difficult, with the exception of the staining process - if you do not know the characteristics of the material, it will take a lot of paint for furniture from MDF, and the result will disappoint you.

Reason 2:

The material is highly hygroscopic, it absorbs coloring compositions like a sponge;
When stained, wood pile rises from the interaction of the coloring composition. The result is an unattractive and rough surface to the touch.

What suits

It is clear that these problems can be solved in production, because in construction stores all MDF products are qualitatively painted and smooth to the touch. Is it possible to achieve such an effect with your own hands?

Important!
Looking ahead, I will say - it will definitely work.
The secret lies in the preliminary application of an insulating primer that impregnates the MDF and creates a high-quality base, as well as in grinding the surface before applying the final coloring layer.

We will return to the process of surface preparation. The main thing is to first figure out how to paint MDF at home. We will need special compositions with high covering power.

These include:

acrylic enamels and paints in the form of aerosols.
enamels made on an alkyd-urethane, alkyd or oil base;
polyurethane enamels.

Acrylic enamels

This group is considered environmentally friendly, since it is a water-dispersion composition based on acrylate or latex copolymers. Most manufacturers recommend their use in residential areas and even children's rooms.

Another plus is the good protection of surfaces from moisture and temperature changes, which is quite important for furniture and sliding MDF screens in bathrooms.

On sale most often you can find the following compositions:

Painting mdf with car enamel. How to paint mdf at home. It will take a day for the primer to dry completely.

MDF - fibreboard - is a relatively young material. Its production began in the USA in 1966. In a short period of time, this material has almost completely replaced wood in furniture production.

Steel facades commonplace in our kitchens, in our offices and in many other places.

MDF is the material medium density, which is made by pressing (under high pressure and at high temperature) fine chips. Lignin acts as a binding material - a substance of natural origin contained in wood.

Of course, in terms of its strength characteristics, this material is significantly inferior to wood, however, as a material for surface finishing, it is a worthy replacement for it (wood). The main advantages of MDF include the following:

Good resistance to moisture;
Heat resistant;
High surface strength;
Very technologically advanced and easy to use;
Low cost;
Resistant to various microorganisms and fungi.

The use of MDF for finishing furniture facades gave a new impetus to the flight of design ideas and made it possible to significantly expand the possibilities of decorating furniture.

But DDF facades, like facades made of other materials, lose their luster over time. During operation, they may require replacement, or the furniture facades have ceased to harmonize with the respectable appearance of a freshly renovated kitchen. Whatever the reason, there are two possible solutions. Facades need to be either changed or repainted.

Painting MDF facades is a relatively simple matter and does not require any special knowledge from the performer. If you have the desire and the necessary materials and tools, this task is quite capable of being handled by an ordinary person who is not experienced in modern building technologies.

In this article, we will talk about how to paint the facade of MDF with your own hands.

Wood fiber boards lend themselves perfectly to painting. This fact once again confirms the high quality of this material and its high manufacturability. To understand the reasons for such a loyal attitude of the material to the products of the paint and varnish industry, you should pay attention to the main advantages of MDF:

Due to the homogeneity, naturalness and solidity of the surface, the material does not require additional surface preparation for painting, unlike most existing materials. If there is a layer of old paint on the surface of the fiberboard, then all surface preparation will consist in removing this layer, which will not be difficult and will not take a large number time;
The surface of MDF is very resistant to mechanical deformations. Due to this, the surface can not only be painted, but even make minor changes to the surface texture.

We paint MDF on our own

The algorithm for painting a furniture facade from MDF with your own hands includes the following steps:

Surface preparation;
Primer;
Choice of type and color of paint;
Applying paint.

In the process of performing these operations, you will need the following materials and tools:

Roller and paint brush;
Scotch masking;
Building hair dryer;
Rubber gloves;
Primer for wood;
Fine-grained sandpaper.

Surface preparation

First of all, in the process of surface preparation, it is necessary to remove all fittings from it.

As mentioned above, the MDF surface, provided that it does not have mechanical damage, does not require preparation for painting. The layer of old paint must be removed with a building hair dryer. Do not attempt this operation manually - it will take a long time and may cause significant damage to the surface of the material. If there are noticeable mechanical damages on the MDF surface, they can be removed with wood putty. At the end of the preparation process, the surface must be carefully treated with fine-grained sandpaper.

Surface primer

As a primer for an MDF surface, a wood primer is best. The method of applying the primer is entirely up to you. You can use a paint brush, roller or sprayer.

It will take a day for the primer to dry completely.

Choice of paint type and color

When choosing the type of paint for an MDF facade, it is recommended to give preference to auto enamel. Representatives of this relatively new family of paints and varnishes are characterized by high heat and moisture resistance, and are able to create a durable coating.

Modern manufacturers of car enamels offer the attention of consumers wide selection rich products colors. There is no doubt that in this kaleidoscope of colors and shades you will be able to choose the best color option for yourself, which will allow furniture facades to harmoniously fit into the interior of your room.

Paint application

Paint selected. The primer is dry. You can proceed to what you started all this for, to apply paint. Seal the areas not intended to be painted, if any, with masking tape and proceed to paint the surface.

How to paint MDF furniture at home

The method and method of applying the paint is up to you. Paint must be applied in one direction.

As a result, you will get a durable, lacquered or matte coating, depending on the texture of the paint, that will give the furniture facades a new look and will reliably protect them for a long time.

Happens on video painting MDF facades:

If you are skeptical about your abilities and do not want to take risks, then you should seek help from specialists. But in this case, the price of painting MDF facades will be significantly higher and will range from 1200 to 2000 rubles per square meter surfaces.

MDF products are painted in two cases. The first is when application is required protective coating, the second - for decoration purposes. In this case, various paints and varnishes can be used. How to paint MDF will be discussed below.

Coloring

Benefits of staining MDF

Currently, this material is actively used in the creation of furniture, interior doors, as well as finishing panels. And all of them are subject to coloring, which acts as a decorative and finishing coating.

Its use provides the following benefits:

The painted MDF element is not afraid of elevated temperatures - thanks to this, it is possible to use it in the kitchen, where hot dishes will be placed on it;
Decorating in non-standard colors will help add brightness and originality to the interior of the room - it can be metallic, mother-of-pearl or other unusual colors;

Mother of pearl panel

No harmful to health chemical compounds is a definite plus for painting MDF at home - the only condition for this is the use of high-quality paints and varnishes;
Durability - applying paint can significantly extend the life of the product.

Of course, this method of protecting surfaces also has disadvantages. They lie in the fact that the price of painting parts significantly exceeds the cost of pasting such products with a decorative film. In addition, under the influence sun rays, the painted surface may fade.

Materials for painting MDF

Since MDF is a wood product, it can be coated with almost any paint or wood varnish. But to get a truly high-quality coating is possible only if specialized compositions are used.

These include:

polyurethane primer,
polyurethane paint,
as well as varnish for MDF.

Let's talk about them in more detail.

Polyurethane primer

Thinking about how you can paint the MDF panels, you first need to take care of the priming of the products. It will prevent the absorption of paint into the material, thereby reducing its consumption.

In this case, you will need a special polyurethane primer on water based. It will hide the texture of the material and create a layer that has high hardness and adhesion. In addition, the resulting coating will be smooth and easy to sand.

It is best to apply this primer with a sprayer. In its absence, it is possible to use a roller or brush. Subsequent drying takes 8-10 hours and is carried out at room temperature.

Advice! For achievement best result this procedure must be carried out in full accordance with the instructions established by the instructions for the use of this composition.

Polyurethane enamel on MDF

Polyurethane enamel

Compared to other paints and varnishes, it has the following advantages:

the coating obtained with its help is wear-resistant and chemically resistant;
odorless, because it does not contain volatile components in its composition;
can be used to color components intended for both indoor and outdoor use.

It is produced by various manufacturers. Products of the Italian brands Sirka and Sivam are in great demand. Their popularity among polyurethane materials for MDF is akin to that of Zinga electrically conductive paint, in a number of compositions for anti-corrosion metal treatment.

Sirca enamel

Such polyurethane paint can be two- or one-component. The first type requires the addition of a hardener before use.

The second variety does not need such an additive and is available in a ready-to-use form. And one and the other type is applied by sprayer, roller or brush.

These coloring compositions are sold, as well as fire-retardant paints for Polystil metal, in special metal buckets. Their mass can be from 1 to 25 kilograms.

Along with the aforementioned Sirk and Sivam brands, other brands such as Tikkurila and Teknos are also successful. But they are all quite expensive.

Therefore, if necessary, paints and varnishes from other, less well-known manufacturers can be used instead. Or do not use polyurethane, but cheaper alkyd enamels.

You should also pay attention to acrylic and oil paints. In particular, when deciding how to paint an MDF arch, you can take a closer look at domestic acrylic compositions.

Advice! Choose moisture resistant dyes.

Painting mdf cabinet. Is it possible?

The product covered with them can be easily washed in the future, which is very convenient.

Lacquer on MDF

In the photo - polyurethane varnish

This specialized lacquer is used to finish MDF items or to tint them. It forms a smooth coating that is resistant to both mechanical and chemical influences. The resulting surface can be either matte or glossy.

This varnish is odorless and is a two-component. This means that in order to prepare the working composition, a hardener must be added to it.

After that, the mixture should have time to use up within two to three hours. It can be applied by hand with a sprayer.

Conclusion

Painting MDF can significantly increase its service life, as well as make the product more attractive and resistant to elevated temperatures. Since MDF is a wood material, it can be processed with almost any paint or varnish for wood (see also the article “Painting MDF furniture fronts”).

But to get the best result, it is still worth using specialized formulations. This is a polyurethane primer, as well as polyurethane enamel and varnish on MDF. They allow you to create a hard and wear-resistant coating, which can have a wide variety of colors.

More information on this topic will tell you the video in this article.

painting MDF with water-based enamel

I had a chance to work with another type of board materials - with MDF (MDF - Medium Density Fiberboard - medium density fiberboard). He made a cabinet in a baguette frame, a bedside table and screens for batteries. MDF painting was carried out using an airbrush (spray gun). But the technological steps will be the same as with manual painting methods.

One of the advantages of MDF is its high dimensional stability and ease of processing. The advantage of water-based enamels is their relative environmental friendliness and safety for the “painter” and in operation, plus UV resistance and quick drying “to the touch” and to the next layer.

Painting MDF facades

Also, they almost do not smell (and do not stink 🙂 and are fireproof. More or less normal enamels start from 500 rubles / liter. Beckers costs more than 1000 rubles / liter. Plus tinting from 50 rubles for light colors and up to 400 rubles for dark ones I've been counting on 300 rubles / liter naively for everything.

To paint MDF, you need to go through the following steps:

1 - preparing MDF for priming (grinding);

2 - MDF primer;

3 - the first interlayer grinding;

4 - painting (first layer);

5 - grinding;

6 - final painting (if you're lucky with the preliminary stages) or repetition of grinding and painting to the desired quality;

7 - guidance "gloss" of the surface.

The photo shows 4 surfaces in order of reading along the arrow:

- bare MDF;

- after priming;

- after applying putty;

- finishing surface.

Stage 1 is important, because the top layer of MDF may contain paraffin, which, to put it mildly, has poor adhesion to paintwork materials. At the same time, possible irregularities will be removed. I sanded with a grain of 120-240 ... according to the sensations. Milling can be sanded at this stage, but it is easy to lick off the fragile edges of MDF. Yes, and the pile after the primer will rise.

Stage 2 may include putty. If you prepare plywood for painting, then putty is required, otherwise the structure of the tree and the ends characteristic of plywood will be visible, even under enamel.

Primed with the same enamel, only white, diluted 1:1 with water. You can add varnish, for example 1 part of enamel + 1 varnish + 1 or 2 water.

The putty was prepared by adding factory latex putty (Olympus for wood) to the enamel to a thick creamy state. Applied with a spatula over the primer. The photo is applied with a roller. After grinding, the surface was perfect.

Stage 3 is one of the most complex, long, laborious and important in case of complex surface topography, for example, in the presence of milling. The first interlayer grinding removes all raised fibers and other critical irregularities and roughness. I was afraid to even think about how to grind the profile in the photo.

Good idea comrade. The essence of the idea is that a thin film is laid on the profile, and gypsum is applied to it, which hardens exactly along the profile. Then the film is replaced with sandpaper. I didn’t have gypsum, but I had a thermal gun for glue sticks. So I made the answer from pieces of MDF and silicone glue. I used sandpaper waterproof grit 220-500. For grinding semicircular grooves, whole glue sticks were ideal, which I wrapped with sandpaper.

Steps 3 and 4 took about 8 hours to make the frame of one battery screen bezel. Why it takes so long, even after production, to comprehend and accept it is difficult.

4. Everything seems to be clear, but no. An airbrush with an appropriate nozzle (I have 1.8 mm) allows you to apply undiluted enamel in a fairly thick layer. This is what should be used at this stage, just remember the maximum possible wet film thickness at a time ( different manufacturers may give different recommendations). Of course, it is safer and more technologically correct to apply many thin layers, but time is also a resource ... and it happens that it simply does not exist anymore.

If there are smudges, you can leave them and let dry. Then carefully cut off with a clerical knife, grind at the end with sandpaper with a fine grain of 800-1000 and rub with a rag. The surface may become more even and glossy than in the "safe" area. I think it is also possible to process the finishing layer, if the car takes time and you need an ideal surface.

Since when spraying on the main surface and the ends gets different amount LKM can first be sprayed on the ends, then on the surface itself, then again on the ends. If the part is large, then you can also go around the second circle around the entire part if the enamel has “grabbed”.

The photo shows screens for MDF batteries. Primed and sanded on top, and painted on the bottom with the first layer of enamel. By the way, there you can see the final result of painting closer.

5. Subsequent sanding is much faster and easier because the previous layer (possibly thick) of enamel fills and levels the surface.

6. Since the enamels that I found were semi-matt, to increase the gloss, I added a glossy water-based parquet varnish 1: 1 to the finish layer. Since varnish has a much lower viscosity than enamel, this mixture also has a rather liquid consistency. What is reflected in the technique and the amount of application of diluted enamel on the surface without smudges.

7. Checking the surface for tiny "bonuses" (dust particles, hairs ...) and removing them. If desired, you can polish, although sales managers say that water-based coatings are not polished.

It's because important feature water coatings is their long final polymerization. Usually 7-14 days are indicated, after which the surface will gain the declared hardness and resistance to detergents. If the layer is thick, then the process can take months. This time.

Most water-based coatings supplied or produced in the post-Soviet space form a film that “melts” under the influence of a relatively low temperature. This is two.

And polishing is friction and heat. So the polishing of "water" is a very peculiar process, in preparation for which, the heated particles torn out by a thin / fine abrasive stick together with others and form pellets that stick to the abrasive surfaces when final grinding. Therefore, they often need to be cleaned. But this feature can be helpful for final polishing with non-abrasive materials, such as a soft buff at low speed or a soft cloth by hand.

Since the process is peculiar, it is desirable to make a sample on which to look for the best polishing technique. And if the result does not suit you, then it is better to look for other options.

For beginners, of course, it is better to paint horizontal surfaces. I wanted that too. But I have few horizontal surfaces, but a lot of details. Therefore, a vertical stand had to be built, on which about 5 m2 of parts could be placed.

After such an experience, you understand why painting costs from 2000 rubles / m2.

upd 11/20/2015 (almost 5 years after writing the article... since then I have worked with both oils and two-component mega smelly paints based on solvents)

Now there are modern water pipes that are well ground and polished.

Updating a kitchen set in our time can be quite simple. To do this, you only need to paint the facades of the kitchen, after which the cabinets will acquire a second life and please the owner for more than one year. You can change the appearance of the panels if their surface has faded, burned out and lost its aesthetics, or when the hostess wants to diversify the atmosphere and revise the interior of the kitchen.

The wallpaper on the walls must be replaced after a few years, the curtains can be alternated at least every month, depending on the mood, and the furniture, as a rule, lasts long enough and its appearance, over the years, begins to bother. But it turns out that in order to change the look of the kitchen, it is not at all necessary to buy a new set. It is enough just to purchase the enamel of the color you like and repaint the furniture facades.

How to paint MDF panels

Moreover, you can do it yourself.

What materials are used in the manufacture of facades

First of all, it is necessary to decide what is behind the definition of "furniture facades". They represent the front of the cabinets, represented by the end of the drawers, as well as the doors:

swing open;
sliding;
rising;
descending;
folding "accordion".

Facades for the kitchen are made in one piece and prefabricated (paneled or framed) from:

natural wood;
laminated or painted MDF;
plastic;
impact resistant glass.

From appearance facades depends on the aesthetic perception of the furniture as a whole. They are able to decorate even the most unsightly frame. In addition to performing a decorative function, panels must meet basic operational requirements, such as:

moisture resistance;
resistance to temperature changes;
resistance to mechanical damage;
ease of care.

natural wood

Kitchen furniture with wooden facades harmoniously fits into large rooms. Doors are made in solid or paneled design, but there are often more affordable options for consumers - veneered panels, which are based on cheaper material.

The advantages of a furniture set with wooden doors are its environmental friendliness and aristocracy, durability and demand, which does not depend on fashion trends. But, unfortunately, solid wood facades are too expensive; over time, their surface begins to darken, absorb odors and moisture.

From the array it is difficult to create rounded and wavy panels, as well as elements of non-standard sizes.

Chipboard

Facades made of laminated chipboard belong to the economy class, which is why they are found in many kitchens of our fellow citizens. But besides low cost and richness of colors, they have no other advantages. But the disadvantages of chipboard abound:

simple appearance;
looseness of the internal structure;
swelling in case of moisture ingress;
fragility;
the impossibility of performing curved and embossed surfaces.

MDF

Recently, MDF facades are becoming more and more popular. They are aesthetic, can have various forms and rounding, covered with enamel or PVC film. This material is the most versatile and amenable to further restoration.

Painted and laminated facades MDF have:

rich colors;
glossy or matte surface;
high strength;
resistance to moisture and odor absorption;
the possibility of making facades of non-standard sizes.

Painted facades will cost more than laminated MDF panels, but they are more durable. Pattern on PVC film can imitate natural wood or marble, but often the top layer peels off from the base, which dramatically worsens the appearance of kitchen furniture.

Both materials are afraid of direct sunlight, so the surface begins to fade over time.

Glass, stained-glass windows or mirrors, rattan or decorative panels are inserted into frame MDF facades. Such doors are inexpensive and, if desired, they can be easily updated even without painting. To do this, simply change the filling.

Plastic

At the heart of plastic panels there are MDF or chipboard plates, depending on which the cost of facades is determined. Often, plastic is framed with an aluminum profile. These doors:

do not burn out;
not afraid of temperature changes;
durable;
highly resistant to aggressive detergents;
have a maximum service life;
waterproof.

The negative characteristics of plastic include:

the complexity of painting (requires special formulations);
constant struggle with fingerprints remaining on the surface;
the possible presence of depressed areas on products resulting from technological processes.

Glass

Facades made of transparent, colored, textured or frosted glass are installed on hanging kitchen cabinets. It can be placed in an MDF frame or aluminum profile, but often glass doors are installed without a frame. This gives them airiness and visually expands the room, but for the kitchen similar option not entirely acceptable.

Thanks to modern priming and coloring compositions, glass can be painted in any color, although the question arises - is it worth it?

Painting MDF facades

First you need to decide on the coloring composition. There are a lot of varieties of paint on the market, but not all of them can be used when working with kitchen facades.

The best option for painting is car enamel, which:

moisture and heat resistant;
durable;
practically not afraid of damage, except for direct exposure to sharp objects;
has many shades.

Painting the facade of the kitchen should be done in a color that is in harmony with the interior and suitable for the style decision. Here you can show your imagination and combine two or three shades.

Materials and fixtures

In addition to car enamel, for painting facades you will need:

wood primer;
sandpaper or hand grinder;
building hair dryer;
gloves;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
masking tape;
velor roller and soft brush;
glizal for additional decor (optional).

Preparatory work

For the convenience of work, the facades are removed from the hinges, after which they are freed from handles and inserts in the form of glass, stained-glass windows or mirrors.

The loops can not be removed, but in this case they are sealed with tape.

Laminated chipboard panels must be cleaned of PVC film, as it will prevent the application of the coloring composition. To do this, the front surface is heated with a building hair dryer and the unnecessary layer is gradually removed. Pull the film carefully so that there are no pieces left on the facade.

Next, the surface is thawed from dust, after which they proceed to the next step. It consists in grinding the surface. It is produced manually with fine sandpaper or used to facilitate the work of a grinder. With its help, the restored layer is also removed from painted MDF facades, although here you can use special liquid for removing paints and varnishes.

At the end of the work, the panels are carefully wiped from dust and degreased, otherwise the new coating will turn out to be of poor quality.

At the last stage preparatory work pre-shaken wood primer is applied to the facades. If there are plastic elements on the doors, they should be coated with a primer intended for plastic. After a daily exposure, they proceed to the direct painting of the panels.

Coloring

Facades must be painted over in one direction with a roller or brush. If you intend to use several shades, then it will be necessary to protect the surface area with adhesive tape, the design of which is provided in a different tone, before applying the first color. After the final drying of the paint, the remaining area is painted using the same technology.

Painting kitchen facades from a spray can or spray gun will look neater, but it should be borne in mind that some of the paint will necessarily be sprayed on the sides. This will lead to overspending of the coloring composition.

To make the facades look more spectacular, glisal is additionally applied to them. The composition is diluted with water in the proportion indicated in the instructions, after which it is distributed with a clean brush over the painted facades.

A patterned textured pattern is obtained by glazing, using for this purpose a damp sponge, a brush with a hard bristle, and even polyethylene. They are applied to the surface with glisal, moving from one area to another, resulting in a pattern of broken lines, chaotic strokes or fancy bubbles. After the end of the “witchcraft”, the layer is allowed to dry, and after a week the surface is varnished.

Fittings are installed on the painted facades and the panels are hung on hinges.

Renewal of wood front panels

Painting the wooden facades of the kitchen at home comes down to a phased surface treatment. It follows:

sand;
apply a layer of primer;
paint in a pre-selected color;
varnish.

Alternative Ways to Update Kitchen Cabinets

Some experts argue that painting kitchen facades with your own hands can hardly turn out to be of high quality and beautiful. They recommend using self-adhesive film for furniture restoration, which is offered by manufacturers in a large assortment. It is released:

plain or patterned;
with imitation of natural wood, tile or stone;
with drawings under Khokhloma or Gzhel;
with a holographic or photographic image.

But it should be remembered that the film can solve the problem of renewal only for a while. At the first opportunity, it would be wiser to order or buy new facades.

If the interior of the kitchen is made in a vintage style, you can try to use the decoupage or craquelure technique to update the facades. If you wish, it will not be difficult to master them, and the effect of the finished doors will be amazing. As a protective layer, a transparent moisture-resistant varnish is applied to the surface, which makes it possible to wash the facades with a damp soft cloth or sponge without the use of abrasives.

Facades with glass inserts are decorated with a fabric that suits the style, or stained glass film. In this case, there will be no need to flaunt kitchen utensils and constantly monitor order on the shelves. In addition, it will be possible to put inside the cabinet large quantity items. The kitchen, at the same time, will look neat and well-groomed.

Home craftsmen know many more ways to update the appearance of facades, each of which can become exclusive.

We give you an example facade painting technologies from MDF on the example of a technology that was used in production using ICA paints and varnishes.

The description of the technological process can be used by technologists as a basis for compiling their own description for a particular production.

The purpose of the description of the technological process of painting MDF facades

The present description of the technological process It is intended for obtaining opaque matte and glossy coatings. It is used for finishing embossed facades and profile elements from boards of average density like MDF. Plate quality MDF confirmed by ISO 9001 certificate and meets the requirements of GOST 10632-89.

The present technical description involves the use of polyurethane paint OP 400 gloss and semi-gloss produced by ICA (Italy), applied by pneumatic spraying with the obligatory use of polyurethane primer FP 285V by ICA (Italy).

Characteristics of the resulting type of coating

This technology provides matte and glossy coatings corresponding to category 3 GOST 24404-80“Products made of wood and wood materials. Paint coatings. Classification and designations.

Trim parts

Facade details of a panel structure with a milled profile on the face and edges made of MDF.

Requirements for the surface to be finished

The milled edge should be with rounded edges (radius of curvature of at least 2 mm), since it is the sharp outer corners that are poorly coated with paintwork materials and, during subsequent grinding, a thin coating layer is removed from them. It is these areas that become the source of internal stresses and, subsequently, the formation of defects in the form of cracks.

Internal sharp corners serve as a source of excessive leakage of paintwork materials in them, which does not dry well, the solvent that has not come out of them can lift subsequent layers of paintwork materials, and this can lead to swelling of paint layers and peeling it from the surface of the plate.

The MDF board is tested to meet the requirements for density, surface roughness and moisture. The humidity of the parts should be within 8 + 2%, the temperature on the surface of the parts should be 18 C.

The roughness for finishing should not exceed 16 microns in accordance with GOST 7016. The polished parts should not lie in the workshop or in the warehouse for a long time, as under the influence of changes in temperature and humidity in the room, they become rough after 3-4 days in wet weather. Finishing should be done immediately after sanding.

On the surface of parts made of MDF boards, there should be no protrusions, dents, scratches, stains from oil, paraffin, glue, foreign inclusions in the form of bark, edge and corner chips.

If the slab is milled, then it is necessary to check for the absence of traces of the runout of the cutter, recesses, protrusions, chipping of the edge and chipping of the corner, fringe, oil stains, delamination of the slab. The surface must be thoroughly cleaned of dust.

Applicable materials

Solvent #646

Polishing wax Farecla G3

Polishing wax Farecla G10

Circles for eccentric grinder grain size No. 240, No. 280, No. 320, No. 1500.

Consumption rates of coatings and grinding materials per sq. m.

no.	Material name	Unit of measurement	Quantity
1	MDF(16.19mm)	sq.m.	1.080
2	Primer FP 285 V	kg	0,328
3	Primer hardener C 285	kg	0,164
4	Paint OP 400	kg	0,239
5	paint hardener C 376 A or C152	kg	0,120
6	Thinner D 1010	kg	0,280
7	Acetone	kg	1,040
8*	polishing paste Farecla G 3	kg	0,090
9*	polishing paste Farecla G 10	kg	0,030
10	Grinding wheel No. 240	PCS.	1
11	Grinding wheel th No. 280	PCS.	1
12	Grinding wheel th No. 320	PCS.	1
13*	Grinding wheel th No. 1500	PCS.	3
14*	Polishing wheel th solid	PCS.	0,15
15*	Polishing wheel th soft	PCS.	0,05
16	masking tape ( automotive	m.	4
17	Cellulose	sq.m.	1
18	Antistatic cloth	PCS.	0,25
19	Packaging film (stretch)	m.	7,5
20	Film - foam	sq.m.	0,8
21	Corrugated cardboard	sq.m.	1,25
22	Scotch	roll	0,05

These material consumption rates are designed for painting with a "gloss" effect. For the effect of "semi-mat" and "mat", the positions marked * are not included in the norms.

Storage conditions for paints and varnishes

Primer, paint should be stored in a dry place at a temperature not exceeding 30 C. The shelf life of materials is not more than 6 months. The hardener is sensitive to moisture, so it should be stored in a hermetically sealed container, preventing moisture from entering there.

The content of the technological process of painting MDF facades

Preparing the MDF surface for primer coating

In the room where painting is carried out, the air temperature should be 18-25 C, depending on the season, and relative humidity 45-70%.

Should be done at least once per shift wet cleaning floors to reduce the possibility of contamination of the surface of the formed coatings.

The temperature on the surface of the parts and the temperature of the material must be at least 18 C.

The MDF board must comply with the requirements set out in paragraph 4 of this technical description.

In case of detection of irreparable defects, discrepancy between the pattern and the size of the part, return it for rework. Repair defects with putty. When choosing a putty, take into account its chemical composition (water or based on organic solvents). The drying time of the putty ranges from 2-3 minutes to 24 hours, they have different shrinkage.

Putties may or may not be compatible with paints and varnishes used for subsequent finishing. Non-combination manifests itself in the form of a violation of the adhesion of the paintwork material to the putty, or its subdissolution, or, conversely, a strong protrusion of the cured putty above the surface of the coating formed by the paintwork material.

Grinding a flat surface is done manually. grinder sandpaper with grit No. 240 to remove the top layer of MDF and putty, grinding the edge is done manually (photo 1, 2).

Before proceeding with the application of primer and other finishing operations, seal the laminated side of the MDF board in the center with cellulose or film and fix it along the contour with masking tape (photo 3).

Application of primer FP 285 V (ICA)

The working soil solution is prepared in proportion to 100 volume parts of FP 285 soil, C 285 or C271 - 30 parts by volume is added, the mixture is thoroughly mixed and 20-30 parts of D1010 solvent are added to it to obtain a working viscosity. At air temperatures > 24 C, use thinner D1015.

During operation, it is necessary to maintain a constant viscosity for 20-25 seconds (Ford mug no. 4), if necessary, adding a solvent.

When applying two layers, the viscosity for the first layer of soil is 50 s c.f., the second 25-35 s c. f., the second layer of soil can be applied after 1-4 hours without waiting for it to dry completely.

If 4 hours have passed after applying the first layer of primer, the second layer of primer cannot be applied without intermediate grinding. Sanding can be done after 6-10 hours depending on the type of soil.

Drying of the insulating soil is carried out in natural conditions at a temperature of 18-25 C for 4-16 hours.

Such a long time is due to the fact that the curing of polyurethane coatings is not only a physical process, but also a chemical process that takes place over a certain time, during which chemical reaction polyol with isocyanate, with the formation of a crosslink and the formation of a three-dimensional structure.

The excess presence of isocyanate in the soil binds the OH groups from the moisture of the slab and contributes to the formation of a more branched polymer structure. The primed surface must be even, without skipping layers of soil.

No streaks, spots, stripes, bubbles, scratches, peeling of primer, mechanical damage are allowed. When grinding, polished and not polished areas, dents, scratches and deep risks from skins are not allowed.

Prepare a working paint solution in proportion to 100 volume parts of OP400 glossy paint, 50 parts of C152 hardener, to OP 400 semi-matt C376A hardener.


Rice. 10-11. Preparing the working paint mixture

To bring to working viscosity, 10-20 volume parts of D1010 solvent are added. The pot life of the working mixture is 4 hours. Viscosity of the working paint solution 28-30 sec c.f. The diameter of the paint sprayer nozzle is 1.8-2 mm, the pressure is 2.3-2.5 atm. Paint consumption per layer 120-160 g/m. sq.

The paint is applied in a spray booth with a water curtain. Apply the first coat of paint in width, the second in length. The paint begins to be applied to the ground after at least 12 hours in two steps, first the end surfaces of the part are painted, then after 20 minutes again the end surfaces and the surface of the part.

The paint is applied in two layers, the drying time of the first layer of paint is 20-30 minutes, after which the second layer of paint is applied. Paint consumption per layer 120-150 g/sq.m.

The distance from the nozzle to the treated surface is 200mm and reaches up to 300mm. A greater distance of the nozzle from the surface to be painted can cause shagreen, bubbles on the surface of the finished part.

The coating should be smooth, without streaks, uniform in color, dullness and gloss, uniform and opaque.

Drying of parts is carried out in a drying chamber on racks. Drying should be carried out at a temperature not lower than 20 C.

At a low temperature in the initial stage of drying, a film forms on the surface, which prevents the free removal of solvent vapors emerging from the underlying layers. This lengthens the drying time, worsens the quality of the coating, the evaporating solvent, leaving the thickness, breaks through the hardened film, forming craters and bubbles.

Paint defects and their causes

Even in the most ideal conditions, subject to all norms and rules, it is problematic to obtain an impeccable, defect-free coating. Therefore, the permissible number of defects is normalized.

In accordance with GOST 24404-80 Appendix 2, the class of coatings that the coatings on the front surfaces of the facades must correspond to must be at least the third.

According to Clause 1.1.3. On coatings of this class, the following disadvantages are allowed:

minor risks, strokes, shagreen, structural irregularities
uneven gloss or haze with a total area of not more than 10 cm2. / sq.m.
shading with a total area of not more than 20 cm. sq. / sq. m.
spots with a diameter of not more than 5 mm in an amount of not more than 2 pieces / sq. m.
inclusions with a diameter of up to 1.0 mm in an amount of not more than 10 pcs/m. sq.

Whatever the original color of the enamel, the color of the finished facade may differ from the one ordered according to the catalog. There are several reasons for this.

The thickness of the applied paint layer

In polygraphic printing, the amount of ink applied by offset is 1-2 g / sq.m. And when painting facades, 120-150 grams are applied, that is, the difference in the thickness of the paint layers is 60-150 times. This is especially true for light colors.

Substrate

If standard white paper is used in printing, then in production we make the substrate ourselves. In this case, the color of the applied soil affects.

Pigments

Each paint manufacturer uses different pigments, so the color shade can “walk”. The color can be cleaner, dirtier, bluer or redder, etc.

The concentration of pigments contained in the bases

For all manufacturers, the concentration of pigments in the bases can vary greatly. Also, the pigment bases themselves are standardized or not standardized. In non-standardized ones, there can be quite large fluctuations in color and tone.

The main defects of paintwork materials and their causes are presented in the table

Paintwork defect	Possible reason
bubbles	Cold base, inappropriate thinner, high drying temperature, contaminated compressed air (oil, condensate), high humidity in the workshop.
craters	Grease, oil, silicone contamination, formaldehyde on the surface to be painted or in the air of the working room, compressed air is contaminated.
Effect " orange peel»	Viscosity of coatings is not up to standard, a thick layer of varnish, the composition of solvents.
Peeling and poor adhesion	Poor preparation of the base, incompatibility of materials, poor grinding of primers.
smudges	Wrong technological mode of application, insufficient thixotropy of paintwork materials, inappropriate nozzle diameter, low viscosity of paintwork materials, wrong thinner.
foggy surface	Excessive air humidity, material incompatibility, incorrect solvent composition, hardener has absorbed moisture from the air.
Uneven dye application	Poor preparation of the base, incorrect application technique, inappropriate type and parameters of the sprayer.
Uneven varnish application	Unskilled application technique, poor base preparation.
Poor flow	Viscosity too high, paint flow not sufficient, wrong thinner used, wrong nozzle.
Slow drying	Accessory composite woods, non-prescription paint preparation, drying mode
Sticking of coated parts	Drying mode, increased consumption, paint preparation.
cracks	Inadequate substrate preparation, excessive film tension, paint preparation.

Polishing

Before proceeding to polishing, it is necessary to remove roughness, inclusions on the end and main surfaces of the parts.

The facade surface is wetted with water and using an eccentric grinder and sandpaper 1500 grit is sanded in a few minutes. Quality is controlled visually.

Subsequent polishing is carried out using a polishing machine and polishing wax (semi-liquid compositions of varying degrees of abrasiveness, designed for polishing with flexible end washers).

Initial polishing Produced with #14 hard polishing pad and Farecla G3 polishing wax. When polishing, follow the rule: apply liquid wax to the surface to be polished, and solid wax to the polishing tool, wet the surface of the facade with water.

Fine polishing is carried out with a soft polishing wheel and Farecla G10 polishing wax.

Glossy polishing or finishing polishing is done with a sheepskin wheel. Polished areas, dents, scratches are not allowed.

Package

After the paint has completely dried, after 10-12 hours, the facades are wrapped first in a foam film, and then in a food film.

After that, the facades are packed in corrugated cardboard according to the specification. A label is affixed to the package indicating the address and telephone number of the enterprise, product name, order number, release date, number of products in the package, package number, GOST.


Rice. eighteen.

Name

Options

price, rub.

Belinka AQUA EMAIL

The composition is endowed with good hiding power, and when applied creates a glossy film. The manufacturer allows the composition to be applied over old paints and varnishes.

Be sure to use an insulating primer.

Among the features of this composition can be identified:

high resistance to ultraviolet radiation;
the drying time of the layer is 4 hours.

This composition can be recommended for products located in direct sunlight. If you doubted whether it is possible to paint MDF wall panels that have faded in the sun, then applying Belinka AQUA EMAIL in 2-3 layers will make them resistant to UV exposure.

590 for 0.75l; 1720 for 2.5l

Some of the compositions presented can also be used as an insulating primer. For such purposes, the manufacturer recommends diluting them with water in a ratio of 70% paint and 30% drinking water.

Before you paint white door from MDF under a tree, it is obligatory:

first apply a base coat of light paint, after which you can apply dark tones;
using a special rubber brush, without waiting for the second layer to dry, treat the surface to obtain a wood structure.

Captain Evidence informs: if you choose how to paint small MDF panels, then it is not advisable to purchase paint in a large volume package.
And since the smallest volume is 0.9 l, it is worth taking a closer look at acrylic paints in cans.
It is also important that when applying such compositions, wood fibers do not rise on the surface, which simplifies painting.

Important: before painting MDF with an alkyd spray, the surface should be primed.

Alkyd and alkyd-urethane enamels

Another fairly large group of coloring compositions that allows you to paint MDF surfaces. If you do not know how to repaint MDF furniture with your own hands, then for self use I can recommend products from the following manufacturers:

Important: Do not forget that all alkyd compounds have a pungent odor, which, moreover, is quite toxic during the drying process.
It is important to organize staining in a ventilated area using personal protective equipment.

Polyurethane enamels

Polyurethane compounds are primarily interesting for their wear resistance and durability. Agree that if you spend money on expensive paint, then its service life should be maximum. In the case of the type in question, manufacturers guarantee at least 20 years!

So, what can be purchased from this group in our country? Below we will take a closer look at some of these compositions:

Coloring process

We figured out the compositions, and now you know whether it is possible to paint MDF panels and with what exactly.

It's time to puzzle you with some of the nuances of the upcoming process, telling you how to paint MDF:

Any surface must be pretreated with primer. It fills the pores of the material, preventing further absorption of the finish coating (paint);
After applying the primer and drying, the surface must be sanded to remove the raised wood drag. It is best to use a grinder for these purposes;
The surface should be cleaned of dust, and only then apply the first coat of paint;
Repeat the sanding process again to remove the raised fibers from the surface again;
Then apply a second coat of paint;
To give a finished appearance, the surface should be polished.

Important: when applying paint to a previously painted surface, it should be degreased.
If the surface has been laminated, then it will need to be treated with an adhesive primer.

Conclusion

I hope that my review of painting compositions for MDF and products from it will be useful to the dear reader, as well as the painting technology itself. As usual, Additional materials Your attention will be provided by the video in this article. I would appreciate your comments and additions.

Good luck, comrades!

The abbreviation MDF in the last two decades has firmly entered our everyday life, as this type of fiberboard is used in the furniture industry, and for the manufacture of doors, and as a wall material. This is a great alternative to natural wood, the price of which remains high.

Your attention will be presented useful information about this material: how it is produced, where it is used, how MDF panels can be painted, and much more. A great addition to our story will be the video in this article on the topic: "Painted MDF facades."

Most of those who plan to build country house, make repairs or make built-in furniture on your own, the question is: “What is the difference between MDF and chipboard?”. In appearance, they are very similar, but the production technologies are different and, accordingly, performance also differ.

For comparison, you are offered a small instruction:

Differences	Chipboard	MDF
Raw materials for production	Large shavings of low-value wood	Fine sawdust - woodworking industry waste, as well as wood intended for felling.
Technology difference	Pressing under hot steam. In production, formaldehyde is used - a very toxic substance.	Pressing under the influence high pressure and temperature. As binder they use paraffin and woody humus, which is called lingin. So, MDF is an environmentally friendly material.
Application	Only in dry rooms. As a rule, these are floors, partitions, built-in furniture. It is not recommended to use in bedrooms and children's rooms.	Can be used in rooms with humidity levels up to 80%. Since there is no MDF in the composition toxic substances, it can be used for decoration of premises for any purpose.

Since MDF has a denser structure and is able to withstand higher levels of humidity, it practically does not deform over time. That is why in the production of cabinet and upholstered furniture factories use only MDF today. The technology for painting MDF and chipboard facades is similar, and we will talk about it in a separate chapter.

Note! In this case, we are talking about furniture and built-in interior facades. Neither material is used to finish the exterior walls! The facades of houses are sheathed with OSB boards, which are completely impervious to moisture. They obtain such properties due to the presence of polymer resins in the composition.

Medium-density fibreboards, namely the so-called MDF, are in demand not only in the furniture industry, but also in the production of interior finishing materials. In addition to wall and ceiling panels, these are also molded products: slats, platbands, MDF plinth for painting.

And how great laminate floors look! But what can I say: look at the picture above, and it immediately becomes clear that without this material today, nowhere.

Sizes and face covering

Manufacturers of sheet MDF offer material of various sizes and thicknesses. There are no uniform standards in the world, and each enterprise determines independently which standard sizes to produce. Ultimately, it all depends on the purpose of the sheets and consumer demand.

If you decide to make a wardrobe, then for the back wall you can take all-pressed sheets with a thickness of only 3 mm, for the sidewalls and furniture facade, 10 mm is already required. To build an interior partition, you need a material with a thickness of 12-16 mm, and, for example, to build a rack - 24 mm.
Here is such a wide range. The dimensions of the sheets also differ, but not so much. On average, the width and length of the sheets is: 1220 * 2440 mm; 1830*2440mm; 2070*2800 mm. As you can see, the dimensions allow, if necessary, to block the walls along the entire height.

As for finishing their surface, the buyer always has a choice: painting MDF with his own hands or using sheets with a ready-made factory coating - and, by the way, it can be not only painted. Decorative cladding of sheet MDF is also carried out by pasting it with PVC film, laminating and veneering.
When using such sheets, for example, for the manufacture of built-in furniture, painting MDF facades is not required at all. If you look closely at the photo above, you can see that even the edges have already been processed, and when using such a sheathing material, it remains only to decorate the cuts.

The decor of the MDF surface can consist not only in imitation of various types of wood. Wall material stylized as stone, plaster or brickwork, makes it possible to create interesting compositions in the interior, one of which we see in the above example. Sheets intended for finishing wet rooms are protected by a melamine coating.

Some features of wall cladding

Before talking about whether it is possible to paint MDF panels and how to do it: with enamel or water-dispersion compositions, we will briefly talk about the nuances of installation. After all, errors can greatly affect the geometry of the skin or structural element and, accordingly, will nullify all your work.

To prevent this from happening, it is very important that the MDF be adapted to the microclimate of the room in which it will be used before installation. It cannot be used immediately after delivery from the store and unloading. In a normal dry room, it should lie down for a day. If you have to sheathe a basement or an unheated attic, it takes at least 48 hours to adapt.

Mounting options

At this time, you can start preparing the surface of the walls, the degree of which depends on the chosen installation option. Wall decoration with sheet MDF can be done in two ways: frame and glue.

In the first case, the material is mounted on the crate. At the same time, special preparation is not required, and if the walls are uneven, the frame elements are installed on direct suspensions.

In order to be able to mount the panels on glue, the walls must be well leveled, sanded, cleaned of dust and primed. If sheet material is used in the installation, it is glued to the base base. Small format panels can also be glued to plasterboard sheathing and even to the surface of wooden battens.

The sawing of sheet and modular material is carried out with a manual or electric cutting tool. In order not to damage the factory decorative coating of the sheets, the following nuances must be taken into account when cutting: when using a hacksaw, you should cut from the front side, and when using circular saw- from the inside.

Note! During installation, it is very important to leave a technological gap of 2 cm between the casing and the ceiling. This is especially true for bathrooms and kitchens, where the temperature and humidity of the air changes several times a day. In the absence of a gap, the expanded material will rest against the ceiling and, accordingly, deform. For the same reason, in these rooms, it is better to install on the crate, since it also provides a ventilated space.

Long and classic wall panels, as a rule, do not require any surface modification, including grouting. After sheathing the walls with sheet MDF, the joints are sealed by filling with a special compound, and then closed with plastic moldings.
Sheets with a factory decorative coating can also be mounted with a gap, which looks very interesting. The necessary distance between the ends of the panels is provided by special cruciform plastic inserts. If the sheathing is made with ordinary sheet material that does not have decorative coating, then its surface must still be prepared.

Since MDF has a high density and a fairly smooth surface, it is not necessary to putty it. It is simply lightly sanded with fine sandpaper and, having cleaned of dust, is treated with a pore-filling primer. But what kind of paint for MDF facades is best suited and how to apply it correctly, we will tell in the next chapter.

What and how to paint MDF

First of all, sheet MDF is constructive material. Along with drywall, it is used for interior wall cladding of frame-panel houses. But compared to GKL, MDF is more durable and has high thermal insulation properties, so there is every reason to use it.

Is it possible to paint MDF panels so that they are indistinguishable from a plastered surface? Yes, you certainly may! Take a look at the example below and you will see a beautifully painted interior. frame house made in fachwerk style.

In this case, the load-bearing structures of the house are involved in the design, but even if this is not possible, moldings from the same material as the sheathing can be used for decorative wall paneling. The main thing is to invent interesting design, and then you can already think about how to paint MDF.

MDF products for painting

Both for natural wood and for all its derivatives - whether it be chipboard, OSB or MDF, similar types of paints are used. Just before painting MDF doors or the same panels, make sure the paint is designed for wood or is an all-purpose paint. In this case, the label will say: "For all types of surfaces."

The main thing here is not even the type of paint, but the correct primer. It is important that it be made from the same substance as the paint. That is, if polyurethane paint is used for MDF, then the primer must also be polyurethane.

Paint for MDF doors, as well as molding material, which are called "for painting", is selected in accordance with the type of primer already applied at the factory. Most often, this acrylic paint-primer white color, replacing not only adhesive impregnation, but also the first layer of paint. So, for finishing painting, you also need to purchase acrylic paint.
But its color can be any, and not necessarily white. In general, doors primed for painting are a budget option. They are chosen mainly because of the lowest cost. In such a situation, the question arises before a person: “How to paint MDF doors so that the coating looks no worse than in the factory version?”.
If you want to get a high-quality surface, you need to forget about brushes and rollers, and use an airbrush. Painting MDF panels, facades of home-made furniture and door blocks will turn out in this case the most uniform and accurate.

This is especially true for doors - it is generally better to paint them first, and then install them. Firstly, they won’t get dirty with paint door hinges, accessories and especially glazing. And secondly, when the door is installed, it is much more difficult to paint over its ends, layout, panels.

It is good if white paint is applied on white ground. And if it is a different color, in some places bald spots will still be visible.

With a brush, it is generally difficult to paint even a smooth surface with high quality - what can we say about such a design as a door. On request: "MDF: painting technology" you can watch one or two videos, where this process is explained and shown in an accessible way.

The nuances of painting work

It is much easier, of course, to paint an MDF product that is already prepared at the factory for painting. And if you have to ennoble sheet sheathing that does not have a decorative coating? We have already mentioned that such a surface is polished before painting.

Why is this done if the surface of the MDF is already smooth:

The fact is that during the production process the material is covered with a protective wax layer. This is what needs to be removed, otherwise the front surface will not have any adhesion to either the primer or the paint. Grinding of sheathing material is best done not with sandpaper, but with a machine - but it all depends on the amount of work.

It is very important that this be done with high quality, over the entire plane of the sheet. Otherwise, when painting, it will turn out that in some places the paint does not stick to the base. If you decide with manual router emboss on panels Special attention when grinding and priming, you need to give these places.
In general, before painting MDF facades, they first apply primer to the relief or overhead elements, then prime the edges, and only after that they begin to cover the entire plane of the product. When working with the spray gun, the nozzle should move in parallel rows, with a fifty percent overlap on each other.
First, longitudinal rows are applied, then transverse ones. Apply in the same order paint coatings. If you need to paint the facade of built-in furniture, then this is done on both sides. First, the back side is painted, and after it dries, the front side.

Next, you need to let the product dry completely, then it will have to be sanded again to remove the pile that has risen during the primer. In this case, the most important thing is to correctly calculate the effort and not completely remove the soil layer, having reached the MDF. At the next stage, a covering paint-primer is applied.

For painting furniture facades, polyurethane-based paints are used. They create the most durable surface, and the furniture is subjected to constant mechanical stress. Well, for wall cladding it is best to use water-based paints - especially since they do not have such a toxic smell as polyurethane enamels.