Drying oil for wood is a natural wood protection. What kind of varnish to cover the tree after drying oil, but is it worth it? - types, overview After drying oil, varnish can be applied

When working with wood and many other porous surfaces, one of the most commonly used materials is drying oil. We apply it as a primer, or for other reasons. But those of you who have come across this product at least a few times know that it has long time drying, and that work cannot be continued until this very drying is not complete.

Overheated and oxidized in a special way vegetable oil acts as the basis for the olive. At the same time, various desiccants, solvents and other components characteristic of paint and varnish products.

The main task of drying oil is to form on the surface of wood protective layer to prevent the penetration of moisture, mold, fungus, rot and insects. Finally, this material is used as a primer, allowing the paint to lie more evenly and efficiently, as well as reducing the consumption of this very paint.

Do not forget that the wood covered with linseed oil is very beautiful, so this paintwork also used for decorative purposes.

Drying oil types

The drying time of drying oil on a wooden surface or chipboard depends on the type of product. There are four options on the market today:

natural;
Semi-natural;
Synthetic;
Combined.

Natural drying oil, unlike its synthetic counterparts, is not flammable, since it contains almost no solvents. At the same time, its drying time depends on the type of oil. The product dries in linseed and hemp oil for 24 hours, but sunflower oil will still be sticky at this point

Semi-natural drying oil contains approximately 45 percent solvents. Like natural, it is used not only for coating wood, but also for diluting paint and varnish products. However, the semi-natural option is not used for flooring. Drying time is approximately 24 hours.

Synthetic drying oil is the cheapest. It is obtained by oxidizing shale oil, followed by dissolution in xyol. Unlike all the others, it is not used for the treatment of household surfaces. Requires room ventilation. The scope of its application includes the primer of concrete, metal, dilution of paint and varnish products, the preparation of plaster and mastic. Drying time usually over 24 hours

The combined drying oil dries for about a day. Obtained by polymerization and dehydration of oils. It is not used for coating surfaces - it is used in the manufacture of paint.

How to speed up the drying process of drying oil on a wooden surface or chipboard

Unlike paint, which dries after the solvent evaporates, drying oil dries in the process of oxidation, that is, by binding to oxygen.

Many people ask what to do if the drying oil does not dry out. In fact, you almost always have to wait, and there are not many ways to speed up the process. One of them is the use of a heat gun. The thing is that the drying process of drying oil is accelerated in conditions of high temperature and low humidity. And the fan heater just does the job very well. By the way, it was previously practiced to apply drying oil hot just to increase the drying speed.

Another way is to use a desiccant. Red lead is ideal. Read the instructions carefully before use.

How to know that drying oil is completely dry, and what to do if it does not dry

The main sign that given material completely dry - no stickiness. However, in some cases, the drying of drying oil does not occur even in 10 days. Most likely due to marriage. It is not worth waiting for such drying oil to dry out - it is better to clean it from the surface. One way to do this is with white spirit. However, if the material is deeply absorbed into the wood, a planer may be required.

If someone varnishes an icon without first impregnating it with drying oil - well, this is already quite strange, there’s nothing to talk about, in my opinion. As far as I know, egg tempera requires obligatory impregnation with drying oil, otherwise, over time, the pigments turn white, lose color and the paint layer quickly collapses.

Drying oil recipe: liquid desiccant (cobalt or lead) is added to slightly warmed fresh linseed oil in a ratio of 1 to 10 (by volume). Drying time approximately 4 hours.

Flaxseed oil can have only two main types (well, plus nuances) - it is oxidized and polymerized. Oxidized linseed oil, regardless of whether it is raw, boiled, with or without desiccants, begins to dry out from the upper surface layer, polymerized linseed oil is prepared at elevated pressure, and it begins to dry out simultaneously in the entire layer, but is more prone to yellowing and darkening. That's all the fundamental difference, so that raw or boiled drying oil is essentially the same thing, so if, when cooking, in addition to the desiccant, some scraps are added to it (I would like to know which ones and how much) you get a good oil varnish.

With regard to the drying time, this is largely determined by the base - board and gesso, for example, I have lime dry boards, many years of aging, the drying oil is pulled like a sponge, I have at least 12 hours, and even after that the drying oil can dry out, so I have to dooliferate.

It's better for our business oxidized oil, because it is very important that both the paint layer and the gesso and the board are soaked as thoroughly as possible with drying oil, since it is linseed oil, penetrating deeply into the tempera, that holds together and protects the icon from destruction. Although, if it is constantly in a damp and cold room, the drying oil itself begins to mold and darkens very quickly.

Since oil varnishes in dark damp rooms darken, and alcohol becomes cloudy, as alternative you can use "liquid wax" the world famous Italian company OIKOS, which produces various paints and materials for construction and finishing works. "Liquid wax" is used to cover the plaster type isk. stone, adheres well to walls subject to condensation, water-resistant, appearance similar to milk, after drying it is absolutely transparent.

The appearance of stains after drying due to the uneven content of the binder in the paint layer, which is why the gesso shines through where there is little of this binder, it looks especially bad on faces. To reduce this undesirable effect, one should try to write tempera with the same texture as possible. On a personal letter, greasy yolk stains are unacceptable - they must be washed out and removed immediately. If, after applying a layer of melt and drying in the light, matte bald spots appear on the surface, then you need to add a binder and water to the tempera. Approaching the end of the smelting, it is necessary to evaluate the filling of the tempera with a binder in the light, and if it is lacking, it is necessary to dilute the binder with water and carefully “drink” the paint layer with it in one or several steps, depending on the circumstances.

If you write with a dense layer of paint, the risk of stains during drying is minimal. If the task is to write something in a thin layer, taking into account the gap of the gesso, it is better to make a tempera with an acceptable lack of binder and, after completing all the work on the site, additionally water the paint layer with a binder.

Well, for those who don't know yet... there is such control test on the degree of sufficiency of the binder in the paint layer: on the dried surface, the tempera is carried out with a wet brush, if the trace is darker than the coller, then there is little binder, it is necessary to add, if, on the contrary, the trace is lighter, then everything is fine, nothing needs to be added.

Have you made wood flooring and sanded it? What now? We have good options how to give even more beautiful view such an excellent finishing material as wood, and make it resistant to external influences.

Grinding is key

If sandpaper No. 40, 60 and 100 is suitable for pre-sanding during normal floor processing, then with the planned treatment with an alkaline solution, soap or drying oil, grinding should be even more thorough. After sanding the floor sandpaper grit 100 with a scraper sander and a floor sanding machine for skirting boards, simply place sanding mesh no. 120 or even no. 150 under the single disc grinder and sand the wood again. Do this thoroughly and remove wood dust from time to time. Sand the edges and corners with a detail sander or by hand, also using a 120 or 150 grit.

Alkalis and soap

Alkaline solutions are very caustic liquids, which easily change the structure of the wooden surface by chemical means. The main effect of this is that soft spruce wood does not darken over time as a result of exposure to sunlight, and soft pine wood does not acquire a reddish (in the heartwood) or yellowish (sapwood) tint. An alkaline solution is applied to raw sanded wood (rubber gloves are a must!).

It is very important to constantly stir the alkaline solution so that it is homogeneous, otherwise some of the components will settle to the bottom. After about 2 hours, the wood will turn a slightly whitish color.

The surface must then be thoroughly rinsed. large quantity water with floor cleaner or remove alkali residues from the surface with a single disc sander (use sanding net no. 150). Attention: for soft and hard rock wood, different alkaline solutions are used. If you mix them up, the surface of the wood may become mottled.

Treatment of wood with an alkaline solution is only a preparation for further surface treatment. Classically, first of all, in Scandinavian countries, after that the floors are lathered. Soap for wooden floors contains mainly soy fat and Coconut oil odorless, which oil the wood from the inside. As a result wooden surface becomes moisture resistant and repels dirt. Soap is simply added to water, which is then applied to the wood with a fringed brush. After drying, the procedure should be repeated at least three to four times. Later, the soap should be added to the water at every normal mopping.

Drying oil

The application of drying oil is a very common surface treatment of plank floors after varnishing. Drying oil is not as durable as varnishes, but it helps to emphasize the natural texture of wood, which becomes softer and more pleasant to the touch.

First, evenly apply drying oil to the floor with a high pile roller. After about 30 minutes, remove excess drying oil with a rag and rub the drying oil well using a single disc sander and sanding mesh. After the surface has dried (after about 6 hours), polish it with a sanding net until a uniform low gloss appears. After alkali, drying oil is often used, dyed in White color to give the wood surface a light, slightly whitish tint. Dark drying oil can be applied without pre-treatment of wood.

Wax

Wax is, like drying oil, also a natural product, which, after adding various substances to it, becomes suitable for treating the surface of wooden floors. Unlike drying oil, wax does not penetrate the wood very deeply, but it does not form a film on the surface, like varnish. The waxed surface is always actively breathing. Commercially available so-called decorative wax is a mixture of wax and vegetable oil, which, in the same way as drying oil, is applied to a wooden surface and rubbed. It is enough to apply colorless decorative wax twice.

Colored decorative wax needs protection, as pigments that are not able to penetrate into the wood dissolve, and on boardwalk field ugly stains are formed. You can protect the wax if you apply it on top and rub in a colorless hard wax - oil. So the color of decorative wax will remain fresh for a long time.

Important: the more layers of wax, the more intense the staining of the floor. The disadvantage is that with each layer, the natural texture of the wood is more and more hidden. The ideal tool for spreading wax and oil is the professional spatula.

varnish

Covering a freshly sanded wooden floor with colored varnish is simply a sin, because the varnishes form a layer on the surface that completely hides the texture of the wood. If you like intense colors on the floor, then you can varnish certain areas, for example, paint a carpet. Like all lacquered surfaces, plank flooring needs a primer after a thorough cleaning. Apply several layers.

Paint the floors first acrylic varnish using a short hair roller. Then draw as you wish. When the main layer of varnish has dried, it is quite possible to glue a crepe or varnished fabric tape. In the end, after everything has dried, you should apply wax varnish twice. Then the surface will become resistant to daily abrasion for long term, and, accordingly, repairs will not have to be done soon.

Wooden floors can also be treated with vegetable oil varnish. It will adhere to all linseed and waxed floors that conventional water-soluble varnish will not adhere to.

The prerequisite, however, is that you have sanded the waxed/oiled floors again with sanding cloth no. You can walk on the floor after 6 hours, and the varnish will completely harden after 7 days.

Only wax varnish will make varnished surface wear-resistant. We recommend applying it at least twice with a short haired roller, intermediate sanding with sanding cloth No. 150.

Everyone sooner or later faces the need for repair. Today on construction market there are many tools and materials that will help you update the interior or exterior on your own. One way is to paint the interior wood surfaces - window frames, doors, floors or even walls.

A wooden surface painted with drying oil does not always look attractive.

Many are not serious about solving this issue, so they buy the first available (that is, cheap) paint and start working without preliminary surface preparation, which becomes the main mistake.

If we are talking about a clumsy process with a roller, the result of which is visible on each fence, then the direction is chosen correctly. But at the heart of any well-made finishing operations is attention to detail, which should be taken care of in advance. Otherwise, you can waste not only time, effort and money, but also completely spoil expendable materials and the wooden object itself.

Therefore, it is important to consider the nuances. For example, what to do if the wooden surface has already been covered with a coloring or strengthening solution: varnish, paint, impregnation or drying oil? The last composition causes difficulties more than others, therefore, first of all, you need to figure out: with what and how to paint drying oil previously applied to the surface of a wooden material?

To answer this question, one should get a little closer acquainted with such building archaism as drying oil, and understand why its use today causes such heated debate, both in the professional community and in amateur circles?

Features and disadvantages of drying oil

Drying oil is a film-forming liquid consisting of residues of vegetable oil (linseed, hemp, sunflower, mulberry, etc.), which is processed in a special way (by overheating or oxidation). And the solvents and desiccants in the composition make it related to oil paints, varnishes, primers and putties. In other words, drying oil as a finishing mixture can be used as any lubricant or coloring raw material.

Drying oil is both a coloring and impregnating agent

AT Soviet years Oil paint based on drying oil was almost the only accessible means surface painting. It was applied literally to everything: floors, walls, ceilings, doors, windows and even furniture. Removing the dilapidated wallpaper layer by layer, old tiles in the bathroom or worn-out linoleum, it is highly likely that you will stumble upon a pro-oiled surface. Previously, not a single repair could do without it.

With the appearance on the shelves construction stores new paint and varnish mixtures, drying oil began to be used only for putty purposes, in order to give integrity to the porous structure of the material and protect it from moisture. Due to the viscous composition, drying oil has good filling capacity, which significantly reduces its consumption. Another area of its application is the painting of metal surfaces and walls and ceilings in office premises (toilet, locker room, industrial kitchen), where there are hoods. In addition, it is primed concrete surfaces and renew wood in outdoor works.

With all its advantages, drying oil has a number of significant drawbacks, which are well known to those who have at least once tried to apply another paint and varnish substance to it without pre-treatment. Among the obvious disadvantages should be noted:

low adhesion (adhesion) in relation to other means of painting, so even the most expensive paint will “peel off” after a short time;
strong smell, which neither in the process nor after it never completely disappears and in indoors a stale, unpleasant atmosphere is created;
slow drying, from several hours to a couple of weeks, depending on the type and composition (the fastest is natural, and longer is synthetic);
fire and explosion hazard, due to the presence of flammable solvents in the composition;
inconvenience of use, since it is necessary to work with it only in a warm room (over 20 degrees), warming up the mixture in advance;
fragility.

It is not recommended to paint with cheap drying oil, it has a number of negative qualities

It must be said that all of the above negative points for the most part characteristic of low-quality, cheap drying oil. good coverage only partially possesses them.

It would seem that it is simply impossible to repaint the surface soaked with drying oil. But the situation is not as dire as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to choose the right tools and paint.

Choice of paint and tools

When working with oiled material, the choice of the correct paint is of paramount importance. Anyone who tried to put paint on drying oil invariably noticed: a freshly applied coating “bubbles” as it dries, and opened bubbles have a yellow, resinous content and a characteristic smell of drying oil.

However, there are several types of dyes and finishing materials, which I can cope with a difficult drying oil. These include:

Oil paint;
alkyd paint;
acrylate oil paint;
pentaphthalic enamel (or otherwise called PF-115);
nitrocellulose varnish (or otherwise called NTs-132);
oil-based liquid wallpaper;
self-adhesive paper or film.

Pentaphthalic enamel easily copes with drying oil and lays down perfectly on top of it

Any of these options is perfect for painting not only wood, but also concrete and metal surface. You should not try to paint drying oil with quick-drying nitro enamel or water-based paint: our tricky impregnation on oil based just "push" a layer of paint. For the use of water-dispersion and water-based paint the surface must be washed and cleaned well, removing the film from drying oil. In this case, 2-3 layers water paint they will cover the surface, but, unlike other compounds, they will not saturate it.

A few more new devices are bought to the standard set of tools:

roller or brush;
airbrush, or spray gun;
paint mixing tray;
a bucket of soapy water;
clean rags;
hard-bristled brush or sandpaper;
metal spatula;
tape machine or manual cycle;
disinfectant composition (antiseptic, flame retardant, acetone, xylene, solvent);
putty on wood or plaster on concrete;
primer;
gloves and respirator.

For pasting with self-adhesive film you need:

stationery knife;
powder or talc;
water with cleaning solution;
dry rag;
pin or needle.

Self-adhesive film looks good, easily glued on surfaces pre-treated with drying oil

Everything you need is at hand. Nothing stops you from getting started.

Surface preparation

The importance of pre-treatment of the oiled surface has already been mentioned more than once. Lower preparatory stages can only be a short-sighted amateur who does not feel sorry for his wasted efforts and funds for materials. A thrifty owner would prefer to do everything once, but thoroughly and well.

So, here is the sequence in which you need to carry out the processing work:

Clean surfaces from mechanical impurities: traces of old paint or putty, rust, lime, greasy spots, soot and dust. Depending on the type of material (wood, concrete, metal), this should be done with a metal spatula or a brush with stiff bristles. Wash with soapy water. Let dry.
Sand or, if possible, scrape the top layer (the latter is for wood only), using coarse sandpaper, a hand scraper or, even better, a scraper draw frame. Wash with water. Let dry.
Repair all chips and cracks with plaster or putty. Sand with fine-grained sandpaper. Wipe with a damp cloth.
Prime. Let dry. Sand it. Wipe with a damp cloth. wait complete drying.
Apply a disinfectant composition no later than 6 hours after the previous stage. Let dry.

These carefully done stages will greatly facilitate the application of paint and prevent their deformation throughout the entire period of operation.

After surface treatment, the painting process can only bring a good mood

Now that negative properties drying oils are minimized as much as possible, it's time to start the procedure of painting or pasting the surface.

Painting work is carried out in several stages at a temperature of -30 to +40 degrees and a relative humidity of no higher than 80%:

To begin with, a stripe layer is painted with a brush hard-to-reach places, welds, end edges.
The coloring solution is applied in one layer by means of vertical movements, directed from left to right or from the wall farthest from the door with a roller, brush or spray gun (at a distance of 20-30 cm). It is also allowed to dip the object into the paint mass. Waiting for complete drying time.
Metal surfaces are painted over in 2-3 layers and dry up to 3 hours, cement-sand, asbestos-cement and concrete should be painted in 3 layers, and wood - 1-2.
Rinse dry surface hot water(without adding soda or detergent) to avoid divorce. Re-wipe before use.
(let's say, oil) you can by placing 2-3 cans of salt water or grated garlic on a plate next to the stained area or in the room.

It is very important to wait for the complete drying of each previous coat of paint before applying the next one. The final drying time of the finished coating at a temperature of +20 degrees is at least a day.

Check if the surface is dry or not traditional method- put your finger on the place of painting. If necessary, you should wait for a longer period.

Transforming a polished surface is not an easy task. But with a skillful approach and competent selection necessary tools and finishing materials in just a few days, you can revive the interior and give it a new, more attractive appearance, which will please its diligent owner for a long time to come.

Everyone sooner or later faces the need for repair. Today in the construction market there are many tools and materials that will help you update the interior or exterior on your own. One way is to paint interior wooden surfaces - window frames, doors, floors or even walls.

A wooden surface painted with drying oil does not always look attractive.

Many are not serious about solving this issue, so they buy the first available (that is, cheap) paint and start working without preliminary surface preparation, which becomes the main mistake.

Drying oil is both a coloring and impregnating agent

In the Soviet years, oil paint based on drying oil was almost the only available means of painting surfaces. It was applied literally to everything: floors, walls, ceilings, doors, windows and even furniture. When removing worn-out wallpaper layer by layer, old bathroom tiles or worn linoleum, you can most likely stumble upon a pro-oiled surface. Previously, not a single repair could do without it.

With the advent of new paint and varnish mixtures on the shelves of construction stores, drying oil was used only for puttying purposes, in order to give integrity to the porous structure of the material and protect it from moisture. Due to the viscous composition, drying oil has good filling capacity, which significantly reduces its consumption. Another area of its application is the painting of metal surfaces and walls and ceilings in office premises (toilet, locker room, industrial kitchen), where there are hoods. In addition, concrete surfaces are primed with it and wood is renewed in outdoor work.

low adhesion (adhesion) in relation to other means of painting, so even the most expensive paint will “peel off” after a short time;
a strong smell, which neither in the process nor after it never completely disappears and a stuffy, unpleasant atmosphere is created indoors;
slow drying, from several hours to a couple of weeks, depending on the type and composition (natural is the fastest, and synthetic is longer);
fire and explosion hazard, due to the presence of flammable solvents in the composition;
inconvenience of use, since it is necessary to work with it only in a warm room (over 20 degrees), warming up the mixture in advance;
fragility.

It is not recommended to paint with cheap drying oil, it has a number of negative qualities

It must be said that all of the above negative points are for the most part characteristic of low-quality, cheap drying oil. A good coating has them only in part.

Nevertheless, there are several types of colorants and finishing materials that I can cope with a difficult drying oil. These include:

Oil paint;
alkyd paint;
acrylate oil paint;
water-dispersion paint;
pentaphthalic enamel (or otherwise called PF-115);
nitrocellulose varnish (or otherwise called NTs-132);
oil-based liquid wallpaper;
self-adhesive paper or film.

Pentaphthalic enamel easily copes with drying oil and lays down perfectly on top of it

Any of these options is perfect for painting not only wood, but also concrete and metal surfaces. In no case should you try to paint drying oil with quick-drying nitro enamel or water-based paint: our tricky oil-based impregnation will simply “repel” a layer of paint.

A few more new devices are bought to the standard set of tools:

roller or brush;
airbrush, or spray gun;
paint mixing tray;
a bucket of soapy water;
clean rags;
hard-bristled brush or sandpaper;
metal spatula;
tape machine or manual cycle;
disinfectant composition (antiseptic, flame retardant, acetone, xylene, solvent);
putty on wood or plaster on concrete;
primer;
gloves and respirator.

For pasting with self-adhesive film you need:

stationery knife;
powder or talc;
water with cleaning solution;
dry rag;
pin or needle.

Self-adhesive film looks good, easily glued on surfaces pre-treated with drying oil

Everything you need is at hand. Nothing stops you from getting started.

The importance of pre-treatment of the oiled surface has already been mentioned more than once. Only a short-sighted amateur who does not feel sorry for his wasted efforts and funds for materials can omit the preparatory stages. A thrifty owner would prefer to do everything once, but thoroughly and well.

So, here is the sequence in which you need to carry out the processing work:

Clean surfaces from mechanical impurities: traces of old paint or putty, rust, lime, grease stains, soot and dust. Depending on the type of material (wood, concrete, metal), this should be done with a metal spatula or a brush with stiff bristles. Wash with soapy water. Let dry.
Sand or, if possible, scrape the top layer (the latter - only for wood), using coarse sandpaper, a hand scraper or, even better, a scraper belt machine. Wash with water. Let dry.
Repair all chips and cracks with plaster or putty. Sand with fine-grained sandpaper. Wipe with a damp cloth.
Prime. Let dry. Sand it. Wipe with a damp cloth. Wait for complete drying.
Apply a disinfectant composition no later than 6 hours after the previous stage. Let dry.

These carefully done stages will greatly facilitate the application of paint and prevent their deformation throughout the entire period of operation.

Now that the negative properties of drying oil have been minimized as much as possible, it's time to start the procedure for painting or pasting the surface.

Painting work is carried out in several stages at a temperature of -30 to +40 degrees and a relative humidity of no higher than 80%:

To begin with, hard-to-reach places, welds, end edges are painted with a stripe layer with a brush.
The coloring solution is applied in one layer by means of vertical movements, directed from left to right or from the wall farthest from the door with a roller, brush or spray gun (at a distance of 20-30 cm). It is also allowed to dip the object into the paint mass. Waiting for complete drying time.
Metal surfaces are painted over in 2-3 layers and dry up to 3 hours, cement-sand, asbestos-cement and concrete should be painted in 3 layers, and wood - 1-2.
Rinse the dried surface with hot water (no baking soda or detergent added) to remove streaks. Re-wipe before use.
You can get rid of the persistent smell of some types of paints (say, oil paints) by placing 2-3 cans of salt water or grated garlic on a plate next to the stained area or in the room.

Check whether the surface has dried or not, perhaps by the traditional method - by placing a finger on the place of painting. If necessary, you should wait for a longer period.

Transforming a polished surface is not an easy task. But with a skillful approach and competent selection of the necessary tools and finishing materials, in just a few days, you can revive the interior and give it a new, more attractive look that will please its diligent owner for a long time to come.