Coat the wood with oil. Linseed oil impregnation of wood products. Wood Wax Oil Benefits

Buying store wax for wood is not a problem, but the price of it “bites”, and most importantly, there is no absolute certainty that you are taking a natural product. People are now reaching for everything natural, so I have collected 5 proven compositions that you can cook with your own hands. Here you will find wax and oil for wood, both for outdoor use and for internal works, plus compositions for wooden utensils.

Do-it-yourself oil wax for wood is quite realistic to prepare.

Wax mixtures

Impregnation of wood with wax pure form this is the first thing that comes to mind home master. The instruction itself is extremely simple here and it looks something like this:

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Training. We will process the kitchen knife holder. The main composition is natural beeswax(it is better to buy in the market from beekeepers or honey merchants); We will apply with a brush with natural bristles; · For warming up, it is desirable to have a building hair dryer, but you can get by with a household one; From the dishes you will need a saucepan and a jar for wax.
	Heating up the wax. Natural beeswax melts at a temperature of 62 - 70ºС, but it must be melted in a water bath, otherwise it will darken (burn out). Pour water into a saucepan and put on the stove; · At the bottom of the pan put some kind of stand or just a rag; · Put the wax into the jar, put the jar into the pan and wait for the wax to melt.
	. In order for the heated, liquid wax for wood to be well absorbed into this very tree, the workpiece also needs to be heated. Easiest to warm up wooden blank in the oven, this can be done while the wax is melting. Then take a brush and “paint” the workpiece with wax.
	. It is not realistic to apply wax evenly with a brush, as the composition cools, the layer thickness will increase, therefore, after applying the excess wax, you need to scrape off the workpiece. For work, you can take a plastic card, it is not advisable to use a knife, you can scratch the surface.

Remember the rule common to all recipes: hard wax for cosmetic processing, and even more so wood impregnation, is never used! The composition should be liquid or pasty, but not solid.

The above method is good, but it has a number of serious disadvantages:

The wax hardens quickly and if you have to cover something voluminous, for example, furniture, the wax will need to be constantly heated, plus a lot of trouble with cleaning the workpiece after application;
No matter how you try to rub the workpiece with rags or felt, you will never achieve shine, the surface will remain matte;
If you do not take care of the thing rubbed with wax, then it will be covered with dust and this dust will eat in. To return the original appearance, you will have to repeat the whole cycle again, that is: sand with sandpaper, cover with hot wax and rub.

Calling the above procedure a recipe somehow doesn’t even turn the tongue, it’s more of an application technology, I talked about it so that you have an idea of the basics, and now we’re moving on to specific recipes.

Recipe number 1. Designed for furniture processing

For furniture, the problem of ingrained dust is relevant, no matter how you wipe your furniture, and over time, plaque will still appear on pure wax. To avoid this problem and at the same time not to lose in naturalness and quality, our wise people came up with the idea of mixing hot wax with rosin.

Rosin acts as a crystallizer and contributes to the formation of a strong film on the surface, while the tree will breathe. Turpentine is added as a solvent, it will not allow the mixture to harden quickly and you will have time to calmly process the surface.

The composition is prepared in a water bath, the sequence of actions is approximately as follows:

The first to be heated to a liquid state is beeswax;
When about half of the volume of the wax has melted, rosin can be added, and it is desirable to crush the rosin;
After the wax and rosin are completely dissolved, turpentine is added to the composition and all this is thoroughly mixed.

Furniture processing technology is slightly different from the above described option.

In this case, after applying the finished composition, you leave the thing alone for 3 hours;
Then you take a building hair dryer and warming up the surface, wipe off the excess mixture from it and again let the workpiece cool for another hour;
At the third stage, with light heating, you actively polish the workpiece, you will not achieve a mirror finish, but you will undoubtedly get a noble sheen.

Wax with rosin and pure wax for a wooden floor or walls can theoretically be used, but wax oil is better here, which I will talk about a little later, in the corresponding chapter of this article.

Recipe number 2. Inexpensive exterior decoration

Natural beeswax for outdoor use is very expensive, plus there is no particular need for a 100% natural impregnation on the outside of the building. Instead of wax, it will be much cheaper to take ordinary white or some other paraffin.

Ideally, instead of gasoline, it is better to use purified acetone, it, of course, is more expensive, but the smell disappears much faster. Gasoline is also better to take as clean as possible.

And do not forget - both acetone and gasoline are highly flammable liquids. Large volumes are generally better to cook in the air, otherwise indoors vapors at high concentrations can explode from any spark.

Wax blends with oil

Under the tree, impregnation is done with the addition of oil. Such compositions are good from all sides.

The oil composition allows the impregnation to penetrate much deeper into the wood;
All oil mixtures after hardening remain either liquid or turn into a paste, which means that they are always ready for re-application without heating;
The oil gives the wood an extra shine and a beautiful sheen.

Recipe number 3. Universal composition

Theoretically, any wood can be processed with this mixture, from walls and floors to dishes, but many are afraid of the presence of turpentine and rosin there.

On this occasion, it should be noted that turpentine is a volatile substance and it completely evaporates, and rosin, firstly, is harmless to humans and secondly, it is only 5% of the total mass there.

Linseed oil for wood is almost perfect, but, nevertheless, this is not the only option; it can be replaced with olive and even sunflower. The only thing I would not advise doing is pouring engine oil there, you won’t remove the smell later.

wood impregnation linseed oil it is also practiced in its pure form, but on large objects oil must be applied liberally from 3 to 5 times at intervals of a day, plus after the first time the surface is polished with fine emery to remove the pile.

It is much easier to soak dishes with clean oil, plus here the tree can also be tinted. To explain in a nutshell, the oil is poured into a container and dishes or crafts are thrown there.

Oil dishes can not only be impregnated, but also tinted.

If the tree just needs to be saturated with oil, then all this is brought to a boil and after 5-7 minutes the products are removed. To toned, the workpieces will have to be deep-fried, like potatoes. The whole process is shown in detail in the video in this article.

Recipe number 4. Add propolis

Propolis is also a completely natural product, which is obtained as a result of the life of bees, moreover, propolis is considered medicinal and is even included in some medicines.

Processing with mixtures on propolis is not only environmentally friendly, but also curative.

The technology is the same as in the previous versions: melt, apply and polish 2 times. Perhaps the only drawback of the recipe is that this mixture will come out much more expensive than the others, because propolis is not cheap, so only dishes are usually impregnated with this composition.

Recipe number 5. Add lard

For those who are not in the know, lard is melted pork fat or lard. Outwardly, the results of processing with a mixture with propolis and a mixture with lard are no different, but lard costs a penny, so the recipe is much cheaper.

Lard can be a good substitute for propolis.

As you probably already understood, step-by-step instruction does not change: warm up in a water bath, mix well and apply the composition to the product at least 2 times, followed by polishing.

Colored wood waxat home it is more difficult to make, you can make a mistake in the proportions and not guess the tone. It is easier for you to first tint the wood, for example, with a solution of potassium permanganate, and then process it with one of the compounds listed above.

Conclusion

I have listed only the most common compositions, but there are many more of them, and if you know more recipes for making wax for wood, welcome to the comments, it will be useful to everyone.

impregnate wooden utensils you can do it yourself at home.

The oil protects wood from natural (moisture, UV radiation) and biological damage (mold, rot). Unfortunately, errors at different stages of processing can significantly worsen the result of applying the coating and even nullify it.

Let's talk about common mistakes when working with oil so that you don't make them in the future.

Incorrect choice

Mistake No. 1. For internal or external work? Yes, they are from the same barrel!

Sometimes mistakes happen before you even get started. It is sometimes thought that any oil is suitable for working with wood, but this is not so.

One of the most serious factors in the destruction of wood is the ultraviolet spectrum of sunlight. Under its influence, the tree quickly loses its strength, acquires a dull silver-gray hue.

To protect against UV rays, reflective filters are added to the oil for external work - most often these are mineral pigments (titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, magnesium silicate). Interior oil does not contain these additives, so it can protect wood to a much lesser extent.

Mistake number 2. Using low-quality oil

We have previously said why you should not use homemade formulations. But even when choosing a specialized oil, you should pay attention to the composition of the impregnation, the reputation of the manufacturer and consumer reviews.

It is worth considering that even quite high-quality universal oil may be less effective (most likely it will be) than specialized formulations. It is worth choosing tools designed to solve a specific problem.

Incorrect surface preparation

After the oil has been chosen correctly, it is necessary to prepare the surface to be treated. It depends on whether the coating will perform its tasks.

Mistake number 3. The surface is not sanded

In the process of grinding, the mechanical damage that appeared on the wood during planing is smoothed out. Sanding also opens up the pores of the wood and allows the oil to seep in. If the wood is not sanded before applying the oil, the service life of the coating will be reduced, and the concentration of antiseptics in the wood will decrease.

Also, the pattern of the wood texture will remain faded, and when using oil of dark tones, wood defects may appear: scratches from a saw or traces from a planer.

Sanding is not necessary when using varnishes, paints and other coatings that form a film on the surface. For such coatings, it is better to treat the wood with a primer.

Mistake No. 4. Improper grinding

You need to grind wood first with coarser abrasives and gradually move on to finer ones. If you stop at a rough treatment of wood (for example, with an abrasive with a grain size of P-80), then the surface will absorb oil more actively. And this means that the consumption of material will increase, the surface will “spot”, and the oil will “fall through” into the wood. The surface in this case will remain insufficiently protected.

Mistake number 5. The surface was not cleaned

The presence of dirt, water or grease on the surface prevents the oil from filling the pores of the wood. It absorbs worse and does not provide the protection that is possible after complete cleaning wooden surface.

Mistake #6: Using chlorine based cleaners

Chlorine destroys wood fungus, but also destroys the surface of the tree: it becomes loose and soft. Such wood will not be able to keep oil inside.

If bleach or a chlorine cleaner has already been used, the wood surface must be cleaned with water and a brush. When the wood dries, it is necessary to check the surface for efflorescence. After that, the wood is sanded, then oil is applied to the test area. If everything is in order, the oil can in principle be used - but the risk of insufficient protection of the tree still remains.

Violation of painting technology

Mistake No. 7. Oil was not mixed before use

Why stir the oil? To raise the pigments that have settled to the bottom. If this is not done, then in different parts of the tree the color of the oil will be somewhere darker, somewhere lighter. This is especially risky when using coloring oil.

Mistake #8: Using oil from different batches without mixing

The composition of the oil in different batches may vary slightly, including the concentration of coloring pigments. If a coloring oil do not mix from different batches, the surface will be painted unevenly.

Mistake #9: Applying too much oil

A little extra oil during application is not only not harmful, but even recommended. But sometimes too much oil is applied: therefore it dries for a long time, especially at the seams.

Most often, this error is due to the fact that:

they work with oil as with paints: the product is not “stretched” over the surface;
apply the composition with low-quality brushes or foam rubber sponges;
use more oil to get a rich tone;
do not polish when applying oil to wood hard rock(beech, maple, larch) or when using high solids oil.

Mistake #10: Uneven oil application

Until now, there is an opinion that uneven oil coverage will only affect decorative form surfaces: wood will look a little worse (or even better if you want to add a peculiar effect).

Mistake number 11. Poor processing of the ends and bottom logs

The ends and bottom logs are most susceptible to destructive biological effects. wooden house. Proper handling will protect these places from cracking and moisture.

Mistake #12. "It's too early!" - "Too late…"

If construction is suspended in winter and work resumes only in summer, the structure remains unprotected during the “downtime”. A similar situation arises when processing is carried out only after the tree has dried.

In this case, a fungus may appear on the walls - up to the point that the walls will have to be completely or partially rebuilt. In such cases, it is recommended to coat the wood with a protective primer oil before downtime.

Mistake No. 13. Processing only one side of the board

Protecting the boards on only one side leads to the fact that moisture is given unevenly. In the long run, this can lead to the fact that the boards warp, and mold will appear on the untreated areas.

Mistake No. 14. Incompatible compositions

As an example of such a mistake, we can recall our recent one. Above, we have already mentioned the consequences of using compounds with chlorine.

After using film-forming compounds, the oil will not penetrate into the pores of the wood. If previously used water formulations- a shade that does not match the color of the oil may turn out.

Incorrect drying and surface care

Mistake No. 15. Ventilation is not provided when the oil dries

The oil dries up when organic matter in its composition, under the influence of atmospheric oxygen, they form polymer chains. The lack of oxygen leads to the fact that the surface dries longer than the norm of 7-10 days. characteristic feature lack of air - a specific smell of oil that does not disappear for a long time.

It is necessary to ensure the flow of air during the application of both the first and second coats of oil.

Mistake #16. Detergents

Oil treatment of wood traditional way caring for wooden surfaces. Oil compositions ensure the safety of the material for many years of operation, give the surface hydrophobic properties and protect against the development of all kinds of adverse processes. However, oil treatment is not such a simple operation as it seems at first glance. The application of oil products to wood has its own characteristics, without knowing which, you can get a completely opposite result and spoil the coating. In this review, we will focus on how to apply oil on wood, what subtleties and nuances exist in this work.

The most common oils used for wood processing:

tung;
teak;
tar;
linen.

Each of the presented oils has its own characteristics, short review of all means is given in the article. Here we will focus on the criteria for choosing an oil, and also consider the best way to cover a tree in a particular case.

The most popular of these products is flaxseed oil. It is versatile and can be used both outside and inside the house. Linen impregnation is great for wet rooms, because. has good hydrophobic properties. The oil dries long enough, up to three weeks, to speed up the process, wax is added to it. At negative temperatures the oil becomes hard, which complicates the processing of external surfaces.
Tar oil is ideal for processing the facades of log and timber houses. It perfectly withstands any weather and resistant to sub-zero temperatures. In addition, it is one of the best natural antiseptics, and protects external surfaces from decay. It is undesirable to use tar impregnation indoors, since it contains turpentine.
Teak oil is suitable for impregnation of any surfaces, it provides effective protection from moisture, from UV radiation and other adverse factors. This tool is also used to cover expensive wood species.
Tung oil is intended for the treatment of internal surfaces. It differs from other types of oils in a higher drying rate. The oil creates a durable film that has a high water-repellent effect. Very often used for the restoration of antiques.

All the above oils are natural products, their use does not cause any adverse effects on humans. Today, often used for surface treatment mineral oil based on petroleum products.

Manufacturers claim that synthetics are safe and can be used for processing interior spaces. However, this is not the case, synthetic additives are released into the atmosphere and are harmful to health. Therefore, the use of artificial oils is permissible only outside, and only if the product has undergone deep cleaning.

The choice of oil according to the type of wood

When choosing a particular oil, you should always consider the wood species. To determine how the oiled surface will look, it is necessary to test on a small section.

Conifers contain resins that prevent the penetration of oil into the structure, so they do not need oil impregnation. To protect the surface, in case of emergency, you can use thick compositions in one layer or process the tree of this species by waxing.
For low density wood, alder and linden, it is also better to use thick saturated impregnations. The use of fluid compositions is undesirable, since with deep penetration, they remain inside in a liquid state.
Beech and birch are characterized high density, in connection with which, they are first processed liquid formulations, and then thicker ones that have a high degree dry residue, and wax.

What can dilute the oil

To improve one or another characteristic of the oil, various components are added to it. For example, to increase absorbency tung oil, it is diluted by 40% with white spirit.

To increase the drying rate of linseed oil, it is mixed with turpentine in a ratio (70:30) and then heated. However, it should be noted that turpentine is toxic and has a pungent odor, so this composition can only be used for outdoor processing. Tar is less toxic and can also be added to oil to speed up the drying process.

For impregnation wooden surfaces wax is added to the oil inside the house. It increases the water-repellent and antistatic properties of the surface and accelerates the process of solidification of the oil composition.

If you want to change the color of the wood or get a more saturated shade, you can tint the oil with pigments. Tinting allows you to ennoble the look of a wooden house, painting it in natural tones of more valuable tree species.

If you want to give the house an unnatural color for wood (red, green, blue), add to the impregnation oil paints or casein oil tempera. You can also dilute the oil with gouache, but in this case, mixing must be done hot to remove excess liquid from the paint.

Oil application technologies

There are three ways to paint wood with oil:

Vacuum impregnation. This technique usually used in industrial environments. This processing requires special equipment Therefore, it is impossible to cover the surface using this technology on its own.
Soaking. The method consists in placing the tree in heated oil, soaking for a certain time, and then drying it. In this way, only small wooden products can be painted.
Layer coating. This technology is the most common. It is used for processing wooden surfaces of different sizes. This method discussed in detail below.

Preparatory work

Properly preparing the surface is 80% of success in this work. Oil is very strongly absorbed and under it it is impossible to hide defects. Any scuffs, scratches, bumps after applying the oil will remain noticeable. Therefore, the main task here is to bring the surface to an ideal state.

It is quite difficult to do this manually, it is advisable to use professional equipment – grinders, pads for polishing. If there are no special devices, you can do the work yourself, but of course, appearance surfaces will be far from ideal.

So what needs to be done:

If you have to oil an old log house, first of all, remove the old coating. Paint or varnish is removed with a metal brush. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the wood itself. If it is not possible to clean the coating in this way, you can heat it building hair dryer when the paint bubbles, it can be removed with a spatula.
Then you need to carefully sand the wood. Professionals perform this operation using a grinder with circles of different grain sizes, which are selected based on the condition of the surface. For rough cleaning, nozzles No. 40-80 are used, for medium - No. 100-120, for polishing - No. 150-180. If there are no machines, you can grind manually with sandpaper of different fractions.
Before finishing polishing, all cracks and cracks must be repaired. It is necessary to putty with putty in the color of the wood so that the patches remain invisible after applying the oil.
After graduation preparatory work all dust must be removed with construction vacuum cleaner. The remaining dust will also be visible after applying the oil, so do this work as carefully as possible.

Oil application instructions

Interior surface treatment

The oil can be applied cold or hot. Application rules are the same for both options. The difference is in the temperature of the oil impregnation. In the first case, oil is used room temperature, in the second - before use, the composition is heated to a temperature of 80 degrees. It is also necessary to warm the surface itself with a special thermal pad, since it will not work to soak a cold tree with hot oil, the product will not be able to be absorbed and will remain on the surface.

Regardless of the chosen method, you need to paint a tree with oil in stages:

First, the first layer of impregnation is applied. The oil is applied with a brush or cotton cloth in a thin layer and evenly distributed over the surface.
Remove excess oil immediately, if this is not done, the impregnation will dry out and form a crust, which will then be very difficult to remove. To remove excess oil, you need to wipe this place with a dry cloth. It is necessary to rub the impregnation until the rag collects the oil. If the oil is not absorbed and lies on the surface of the floor, you can take a rubber spatula and rake the excess into puddles with it, and then collect it with a rag.
The surface is then polished soft cloth. After that everything wet areas wipe dry with a cotton cloth.
With a cold method of processing, the application of the second layer is started no earlier than 5 hours, in some cases it is necessary to wait up to 12 hours. It depends on the type of oil. The second treatment with hot oil can be done after 2-2.5 hours, because. it dries out much faster.
Re-processing is carried out similarly to the first, each layer must be polished. The number of coats depends on the condition of the surface, the wood species and the type of oil. Usually 2-3 layers are enough.

For complete drying surface requires two to three weeks, the exact period depends on the combination of the factors listed above.

House treatment outside

Applying oil on the facade of a house made of timber and logs should be done in warm sunny weather. It is advisable to prime the surface before this. Let's take linseed oil as an example. If the treatment is carried out with oil from flax, it must first be cleaned of impurities, since under the influence solar radiation linen impregnation turns yellow.

Oil purification methods:

With normal saline solution. To achieve good result, the oil must be washed at least 5-7 times.
By mixing the oil with lead salt and heating the composition to 60 degrees.
By adding ethanol.
Photooxidation. The oil is boiled with water, filtered and kept in the light.

Impregnation process:

We remove the old coating.
We grind the surface.
Remove dust with a vacuum cleaner.
With a brush with soft bristles, apply the first layer of oil-turpentine impregnation.
After drying, grind the surface and apply the oil again.
After the final drying, we process the tree a third time.

Conclusion

Oil is a product that is quite difficult to work with on your own. The slightest violation of technology and any inaccuracy immediately affect the quality of painting. All work must be done with the utmost care, especially when it comes to transparent composition. Perfect smoothness of polishing, a flat surface, the absence of defects are indispensable conditions for obtaining a beautiful and high-quality coating.

All these conditions are feasible when professionals get down to business. The Mater Srubov company is your reliable assistant in creating high-quality and beautiful interior wooden house. Specialists high level preparations will perform any finishing work inside and outside the log house. To apply, go to the section. There you will find all our coordinates.

Calculate the cost of painting and insulating your home right now

Purpose: Tar oil is intended for processing external wooden surfaces (wooden facades, gazebos, terraces, wooden garden furniture, fences, stairs)

Tar oil due to the content of pine turpentine, it penetrates deep into the wood, linseed oil does not allow the composition to "come out of the wood" under the influence of moisture and temperature changes, and raw natural birch tar is the most powerful natural antiseptic !!!
Properties:

oil is a pure natural product

Gives wood water-repellent properties.

Penetrates deep into the structure of the tree, forms protective layer and emphasizes the natural pattern and tone of the wood surface.

Prevents the formation of mold, fungus and other biological damage. Highly effective antiseptic.

Processing is easy and fast.

The treated surface is abrasion resistant.

Suitable for processing any type of wood.

Does not change the natural color of wood, emphasizing its natural texture.

Wayapplications: Stir the oil thoroughly before applying. Thoroughly clean the treated surfaces from dust and dirt. Remove old coating, if necessary sand the surface and dry. Optimum temperature air when applying the composition + 15º C, relative humidity less than 80%. The oil must be applied in a thin layer with a brush, carefully rubbing in the direction of the wood fibers. Remove excess oil that has not been absorbed from the surface with a rag.

Drying time: 24 hours.

Precautionary measures: Dispose of oil-soaked cloth or rags as household waste. Oil that has come into contact with skin and clothing can be washed off with warm soapy water.

Consumption: 100-150 g/m² for a single coat.

Compound: natural linseed oil, pine turpentine, natural tar

Transportation and storage: oil is stored in tightly closed containers in a dry and cool or cold place. Not afraid of freezing. At negative temperatures does not lose its properties.

Best before date: 5 years from date of manufacture.

Wood is environmentally friendly and safe material requiring due attention and care throughout the entire period of operation.

wood impregnation natural oil is the simplest and effective method protect it from destruction, decay, damage by mold and pathogens.

Wood has high hydrophilic properties, which lead to drying out and damage to the surface.

To avoid such troubles in the future, experts recommend processing wood vegetable oils who are under the influence sun rays and oxygen turn into a solid protective covering. They quickly penetrate into wood fibers and reliably protect them from the negative effects of various factors.

The main reasons why oil coating matters are:

On wooden surfaces, mechanical damage is not noticeable, which can lead to a decrease in the effectiveness of the coating;
Processing with such compositions makes the surface pleasant to the touch, allowing it to maintain its original structure;
Natural oils give wooden surfaces an attractive glossy sheen, eliminating tarnishing and fading;
Impregnation with linseed oil provides effective damage to fungal spores. Impregnation reliably closes the pores, which prevents water from entering them.

Benefits of oils

In construction stores presented great amount protective compounds for wood - oils, stains, varnishes, and waxes.

The most popular and effective for impregnation of wooden surfaces are protective oil and wax. They have powerful waterproofing characteristics, while being completely safe and environmentally friendly.

Oils have the following benefits:

Contains only environmentally friendly components;
Provide reliable closing of small wood pores;
Possess high water-repellent, wear-resistant properties;
Give wooden surfaces an attractive appearance;
Increase the life of the tree;
Well applied and quickly restored;
Do not exfoliate, do not peel off, do not deform;
Do not change the natural color of the tree;
Well cleaned of dirt;
Have good value prices and quality.

Despite the obvious advantages, oil impregnations have some disadvantages. So, wooden surfaces coated with oil require more attention than lacquered bases. Every 4 months they need to be covered with a fresh layer of oil.

Oil treatment does not prevent the appearance greasy spots, which are difficult to remove with improvised means.

Types of oils for wood, their choice

For wooden surfaces various types natural and artificial oils are used.

Vegetable oils are natural ingredients processed by chemical means, to obtain an effective protective composition. They are divided into three categories:

Drying - poppy, walnut, wood, perilla, niger, linen, hemp, tar and others;
Semi-drying - sunflower, rapeseed, cotton and others;
Non-drying - castor, olive, palm, almond and others.

artificial protective compounds are made with the addition of various chemical components that are designed to improve the wear-resistant characteristics of a wooden coating.

Linseed and hemp oils are most in demand for tree protection, which differ high content glyceride compounds of linoleic and linolenic acids.

To choose the right oil for wood, first you need to determine whether the impregnation corresponds to the type and density of the wood.

The best option for most types of wood are universal oil formulations that have an extended spectrum of action. Some impregnations have a slight coloring effect on wood flooring, thereby giving it a deep rich hue.

Surface preparation for processing

Before proceeding with the impregnation of wood with an oil composition, the surface should be prepared - thoroughly cleaned of dust, sanded and polished.

If the wood is damaged by mold or pathogens, the surface requires cleaning, disinfection, treatment with an antibacterial primer deep penetration. The treated base or parts must be left to dry completely.

The grinding of the base is carried out using sandpaper fine or medium grain, the resulting dust is cleaned with a soft brush or clean rags. The old paint layer is previously removed with simple solvents and a scraper.

The finished surface must be smooth, without defects and damage. This is necessary in order to ensure better adhesion of the impregnation to the wood.

The process of applying impregnation to wood is carried out in several stages with technological breaks of 1.5-2 hours each.

For impregnation it is necessary to prepare the following materials and tools:

Oil composition;
Wax;
Small capacity;
wide brush;
Soft clean rags;
Fine grit sandpaper.

In any hardware store you can purchase special formulations for wood, linseed oil is recommended. To accelerate the hardening, it is additionally recommended to use wax. Work on the impregnation of surfaces with compounds and wax is carried out as follows:

To obtain an oil product in different containers, it is necessary to heat the wax and linseed oil. Combine the finished components and mix thoroughly.
Apply the warm mass evenly with a brush on the treated surface along the wood fibers. Repeat the procedure 4-5 times. Depending on the type of wood, the procedure can be carried out in several approaches. The minimum interval between oil coats is 1.5 hours.
The coating is cleaned of excess oil with a clean rag until the impregnation hardens. With a little effort, the rag must be pressed against the surface in order to remove the resulting roughness of the wood fibers.
Leave the surface treated with compounds and wax until completely dry for 2-3 days.
After drying, the coating should be polished to a matte sheen.

Important! If linseed oil contains polyurethane components, then no need to add wax. Some wooden substrates can only be treated with wax.

Wood drying is carried out in a ventilated room or on the street. During drying, the treated surface must be protected from moisture, dust and direct sunlight.

Subsequent work with bases, treated compounds and wax should be postponed for 7-10 days.

Any wooden base can be treated with oil compounds and wax. In this case, the moisture content of wood should be no more than 14%. If the surface treatment process is carried out indoors, then the air humidity should not exceed 70%, for outdoor work it is better to choose a good sunny day.
Coatings with rapid wear are recommended to be treated up to 4 times a year, substrates with slight mechanical action- no more than 1 time in 2 years.
Linseed oil and wax treatments are not performed on painted or lacquered substrates.
Unused linseed oil and wax can be stored in a cool place at a constant temperature of 0 degrees.
Valuable wood species are recommended to be treated with linen-based wax.
For impregnation of external wooden bases and elements, pure linseed oil without auxiliary additives is suitable, which has pronounced moisture and dirt-repellent characteristics. Wax can also be used for internal surfaces.
High-quality impregnation with linseed oil can be performed in two ways - rubbing and soaking. Rubbing the composition is done with a sponge or brush along the fibers. This method is suitable for large bases. For small items and elements, soaking can be used. In this case, the product is immersed in a container with a protective agent for a couple of hours or days. After the impregnation is completed, the wood is left to dry completely.
For reliable protection of wood, it is better to use oil and wax, not varnish. Lacquer coating susceptible to mechanical damage, cracks and chips, which can cause swelling and decay of wood. Unlike varnish, linen protective agent and wax penetrate deep into the fibers, preventing cracks and protecting the wood from environmental negative factors. In addition, the composition gives the base a rich shade and an attractive natural shine.

Timely impregnation with oil formulations will provide high-quality and reliable protection wooden bases throughout the entire service life.