Installation of slopes on plastic windows indoors. Do-it-yourself internal slopes for pvc windows. Installation of internal slopes

There are many ways of what and how to make slopes on plastic windows from the inside of the house. They are chosen based on the design of the room, the material of the walls and the type of windows themselves. And in the case of self-design, they also take into account the ease of installation, the ability to do it yourself. Having studied the technology for manufacturing internal slopes, each homeowner will be able to choose the best way for himself.

Source okna-forte.ru

Drywall slopes

This material is in great demand for finishing and leveling indoor walls, as it allows you to do this work quickly and without unnecessary dirt. Slopes from it also turn out to be even, smooth and inexpensive, and their surface can be painted, wallpapered or tiled in accordance with the design of the surrounding walls.

But you need to remember about the shortcomings of drywall, which are due to its low mechanical strength and instability to moisture. The disadvantages include the need for finishing.

Advice! For slopes, it is better to choose moisture-resistant (GKLV) or fire-resistant (GKLVO) drywall sheets.

Before making slopes on the windows of this material, you need to decide which installation method to choose: with fastening to the frame or gluing to putty or mounting foam.

The first method is not always possible, since in most cases the size of the opening does not allow installing a crate in it, which would not interfere with opening the window sashes. Therefore, the second one is more often used. In any case, the installation begins with the preparation of the base and measurements, determining the angle of dawn.

Source i.pinimg.com

For reference! Dawn is the expansion of the opening away from the window into the room or onto the street. The dawn angle should be greater than 90° to allow better penetration of natural light into the building.

Frame mounting

The surface on which the wooden or metal frame is attached must be durable. Therefore, falling out bricks should be planted on the mortar, large damages should be repaired and the mortar should be allowed to dry. Then cut off the protruding dried foam around the perimeter of the window frame. If the walls are wooden, the mounting plane must be treated with antiseptics, as well as the wooden parts of the frame. It is better not to remove the mounting film from the windows until the end of the work, and if it is not there, then the frames must be covered with polyethylene:

The frame is mounted taking into account the angle of dawn.
The internal profile is installed at a small distance from the window so that the gap between them can be blown out with foam, eliminating cold bridges.
The outer profile must be flush with the wall.
The entire cavity of the frame is filled with insulation.

Source myshtukaturka.ru

Before making slopes on plastic windows yourself, measurements are taken, starting from the upper horizontal element. You will need its depth, internal and external width. The dimensions of the side slopes are determined after the installation of the top.
The parts cut out of drywall are screwed to the frame with appropriate self-tapping screws (for wood or metal) with the cap drowned.
A reinforcing corner is glued to the corner joint of the slopes with the walls, after which the entire surface is covered with a primer and puttied.
After the putty has dried, proceed to the final decorative finish.

Source prorab.help

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular - from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Foam mounting

This method is faster and easier in terms of labor costs. As in the previous case, before installing slopes on plastic windows with your own hands, the opening is strengthened and roughly leveled. The mounting foam is first cut flush with the plane of the window box, and then a groove is cut along its perimeter with a depth of 5-10 mm and a width slightly larger than the thickness of the GKL.

After measurements, the upper part cut out of drywall is tried on in place, the groove is filled with fresh foam and inserted there. The space between the slope and the wall of the opening is also blown out with foam or a layer of putty is first applied to the drywall. The slope is set according to the marks, observing the angle of dawn, and fixed in this position with props.

The next stage is measuring and cutting out the side fragments of the slope, installing them in place in the manner described. After a few hours, necessary for the polymerization of the foam or the drying of the putty, they begin to install the perforated corners and putty the surface.

Video description

The full process of gluing slopes is shown in the video:

Slopes from sandwich panels

A universal solution to how to make slopes on plastic windows will be the installation of sandwich panels, consisting of two outer layers of plastic, between which insulation is laid. Such slopes, having the same color and texture, will become a logical continuation of the window and will not require additional finishing.

The clear advantages of this material over drywall include greater strength and absolute insensitivity to moisture, no dust during installation, long service life without repair, ease of maintenance and cleaning from dirt.

Note! Such slopes are mounted after finishing the interior walls.

Installation of sandwich panels is carried out similarly to plasterboard slopes glued to mounting foam. As in that case, first a groove is made around the window in the frozen foam, then the panels are cut out taking into account its depth. The parts are installed in the groove, having previously applied mounting foam pointwise to the moistened wall of the opening, pressed into the desired position and fixed with pieces of masking tape.

Source i2.wp.com

When the foam sets, the tape is removed and all the voids are blown out, but very carefully so that the foam does not squeeze out the panels when expanding.

The joints between the panels and the window frame along the entire perimeter are filled with sealant or liquid plastic. And on the outer ends they put on an F-shaped profile cut along the length, the shelf of which is glued to the wall around the opening. First, install the vertical elements, then the upper horizontal, cutting the corners at 45 degrees. Before the glue dries, the profile is also fixed with masking tape.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that specialize in. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Slopes from PVC panels

Plastic panels in appearance and characteristics are very similar to "sandwiches". But more diverse in design of the front surface. Before we tell you how to make slopes on plastic windows, we note that this technology is also applicable to MDF panels, laminate, parquet boards, which are also sometimes used to finish the slopes of wooden windows or plastic, but with a decorative wood-like coating. Sandwich panels can also be mounted in this way.

Its difference lies in the use of starting U-shaped, corner and F-profiles, which make it possible to do without mounting foam, putty or adhesive solutions.

Video description

The order of their installation is shown in the video:

Starting profiles are screwed to the window frame with small self-tapping screws, making a step between them no more than 20 cm.
An angled profile is installed at the junction of the vertical and horizontal profile and cut to the level of the wall.
Holes are drilled along the outer edge of the opening and plastic dowels are hammered into them.
An external F-profile is installed and fastened to the walls of the opening by screwing self-tapping screws into the dowels.
The cavity behind the resulting frame is insulated with basalt wool.
Elements are cut out of the panels according to measurements made after installing the profiles, and inserted into the grooves.

On a note! Installing panels in 3 profiles at once is quite difficult. Therefore, instead of the F-profile, you can use ordinary plastic corners, which are glued after installation is completed and temporarily fixed with masking tape.

Source okna.only.by

wooden slopes

The choice of natural materials will be fully justified if the windows themselves are made of wood. The same slopes will make them more attractive, especially if you finish with the same type of wood from which the frames are made. They will also look good with plastic windows in a wooden house or if the walls are finished with clapboard.

It is desirable to give preference to hard or coniferous woods - oak, larch, pine, exotic meranti, etc. If the color does not match the wood of the window frames, you can always use tinting impregnations or varnishes, which will also protect the wood from fungus and moisture.

There are 2 ways to make slopes on plastic windows from the inside in a private wooden house: using a cut board or wooden lining.

massive

To make a slope from a solid board, it must be cut to size, adjusted in thickness and sanded on one side. The end adjacent to the window frame must be cut at such an angle that a dawn forms, but the junction is tight.

Source www.mebel-raduga.ru

The algorithm for installing wooden slopes in a concrete or brick opening is as follows:

after the final fitting, each part is installed in its place and drilled in the corners, with an indent from them of 2-3 cm. From the outside, the holes are countersinked under the caps of the self-tapping screws;
marks are made through the resulting holes on the walls of the opening;
holes for plastic dowels are drilled at the marked points;
if necessary, insulation is laid between the wall and the slope. So that the mineral wool does not wrap around the self-tapping screw during the installation process, metal or plastic tubes are inserted into it opposite each dowel;
slope elements are re-installed and screwed with self-tapping screws;
mounting holes are puttied or closed with wooden plugs;
the outer joint of the slopes with the wall is closed with a platband or a wooden corner.

Source rabotai-sam.ru

Installation in a wooden opening is even easier - no pre-drilling and installation of dowels is required.

typesetting

Particularly good typesetting slopes from lining, imitation of timber or blockhouse look when the walls are lined with the same material. They can also be used in the case of very deep openings, when it is not possible to cover them with one board.

There is nothing complicated about how to make slopes on windows with your own hands, especially if the walls are already sheathed and there is a wooden frame around the opening. The lining is simply cut into segments equal to the distance from the cladding plane to the frame plus 5-7 mm, into which the end is recessed into the gap between the window and the wall of the opening. As in previous cases, for this you need to cut a groove around its perimeter in a hardened mounting foam.

At one end, a piece of lining is inserted into the groove, and the other is nailed to the outer frame with small nails, screwed on with self-tapping screws or fastened with clamps. The void behind the boards during installation can be blown out with foam or filled with insulation. The joint is made out with a wooden corner.

Video description

The main stages of finishing window slopes with clapboard are shown in the video:

Plaster slopes

One of the most durable and durable, but not the easiest way to do it yourself, is plastering the walls of a window opening. The solution can be prepared with your own hands from sand and cement, but it is better to buy a suitable dry mix and dilute it according to the instructions on the package. There are also ready-made latex or acrylic-based plasters on sale, it is easier to work with them, since they do not harden as quickly as cement or gypsum mixtures.

How to properly make slopes on plastic windows depends on the initial state of the opening. If its walls are even and do not need to be thickened, the plaster mortar is simply applied in a thin layer, smoothed and sanded after drying. But before finishing, you need to remove the old paint, if any, and treat the surface with a primer.

Source otdelka-expert.ru

Broken openings with significant defects and the need for alignment will require a lot of effort. They are plastered on lighthouses, and if necessary, thick layer devices do this in several steps.

Conclusion

When choosing how to install slopes on plastic windows and what to make them from, you should not focus on the possibility of independently implementing this project. If design requirements and practicality considerations indicate a material that you are afraid to work with, it is better to hire a specialist. This is not so expensive work to save on it, but the aesthetics of windows depend on its quality.

Installation of plastic slopes of a standard apartment in 2-3 rooms is done by hand in just one working day, there is practically no garbage and even dust.

The installation of slopes begins with the preparation of the window opening - it is necessary to cut off the excess frozen foam with a knife, which prevents the sandwich panels from being placed close to the frame and knock down the protruding plaster.

A centimeter-deep groove is cut in the foam to the thickness of the sandwich panel.

A wooden lath with a section of 10 X 40 mm is fixed to the front side of the slope. It is attached to the right, left and top with a puncher and plastic dowels. The rail sets the correct angle of the sandwich panel in relation to the plane of the window and is aligned with the help of a level. The angle of the panels should be the same for all windows, for this it is best to make a stencil.

The length and width of the panels are measured using a tape measure. Cut the panels with a hacksaw, grinder or jigsaw. It is easier to determine the width of the panel "in place" by placing the panel where it will be fixed later, the depth of the groove in the foam must also be taken into account. The front edge of the panel is measured at the level of the wall, marked with a pencil or marker and cut with a hacksaw. It is convenient to adjust the plastic with a knife with a sharp blade.

They begin to adjust the panels from above, so it is much easier to determine the size.

If a window sill was mounted along with the window, then vertical sandwich panels should be measured more carefully to avoid bending them.

The junction with the window sill must be carefully adjusted in order to achieve a minimum gap. When fitting, use sanding paper, you can use a grinder with a cutting wheel.

After all the panels are fitted, proceed to fixing them.

The back part of the panel is inserted into the groove on the foam, the panel is slightly bent and the mounting foam from the cylinder is distributed in small portions into the space between the slope and the sandwich panel. Especially diligently, without gaps, the foam should be placed where the panel joins the window. The expanding foam presses the panel against the frame, tightly connecting the slope and the sandwich panel. To make the foam harden faster, you can slightly moisten the slope with water using a household sprayer, a damp cloth.

There should not be a lot of foam, otherwise, when expanding, it will bend the panel. Be sure to check this with a building level both vertically and horizontally.

There should be no dust on the slope, it is brushed off or removed with a vacuum cleaner. Loose slopes at this stage can be additionally impregnated with a deep penetration primer.

The front of the panels are attached to the rail with small nails so that their caps are located at a distance of about 5 mm from the edge of the slope. It is necessary to nail carefully so as not to damage the panel with a hammer, not to leave marks on the plastic. You can fix the panel with carnations or masking tape, the master chooses the method that is most convenient for him.

The panels are fixed with nails so that the expanding foam does not move it from the slope. The expansion of the foam in volume is quite strong and it can completely ruin the geometry of the slope. But if there is room for the expanding foam to come out or its amount is not too large, then the clamping force of masking tape is enough to hold the forces of small carnations.

When filling a wide slope with foam, sometimes the length of the tube may not be enough, so for wide slopes it is better to use the installation technique with a deflection of the sandwich panel. So the foam is guaranteed to hit its intended purpose, completely filling the most important area - at the frame.

Installation of slopes with a starting U-shaped profile

First of all, we prepare the slopes, there are no differences from the first method - the plaster is knocked down, the dust is removed and the surface of the brick, concrete, plaster is impregnated with a primer.

The list of tools does not change, but a stapler with 8-10 mm staples is added to secure the U-shaped profile. If there is no stapler, the profile can be fixed with nails or self-tapping screws.

Before installing the starting profile, it is required to fix a wooden block to which the profile is nailed. The cross section of the beam should be such that it is located at the frame.

Not necessarily the beam is selected solid, it can be segments of different lengths. The pads will help to adjust the position of the beam, it is advisable to tilt it slightly relative to the frame so that the starting profile does not twist when sandwich panels are placed in it.

The tree must be treated with drying oil or paint - so it will not rot.

With the help of a puncher or a screwdriver, the beam is attached to the concrete with dowels, so firmly that the mounting foam does not unfold, does not shift it to the side.

The starting profile should be purchased dense, more expensive. A cheap profile, when mounting panels into it, can bend, a noticeable gap forms between it and the sandwich panel.

The U-shaped profile is installed in the same way as when installing a plastic lining - with the long side to the beam. It is better to do this with a stapler or with self-tapping screws - hammer blows can weaken the strength of the timber. The profile must be well pressed against the window frame in order to completely avoid the appearance of cracks.

Self-tapping screws for fastening the starting strip are best used not for drywall, but with flat caps like a press washer.

The marking of the panels along the length is carried out taking into account the window sill for the side segments. There is a technique when, during the installation of side panels, the upper cut is made out with a U-shaped profile to make it easier to adjust the upper and side slopes.

On the front of the slopes, rails are mounted in the same way as with the method without a U-shaped profile.

Installation of panels is easy - we measure the width of the top and side panels.

To do this, insert the sandwich panel, cut to the desired length, into the profile and mark the width by making a mark with a pencil, pen, or the like. Cut with a hacksaw and adjust if necessary. If a window sill is installed, you need to achieve an even position of the side panel, without bends.

An alternative design of panel joints using a corner profile.

We insert the already fitted panels with the side ends into the starting profile. To fix them, you need to slightly deflect them away from the slope and apply a strip of mounting foam from a cylinder. Another technique is to first apply foam with a snake over the entire plane of the slope, completely fill the gap between the bar and the frame, then insert the panel and press it against the slope.

Using a level, we check the correct position of the panel in a vertical plane, fix the front edge with masking tape. If there is any doubt about the strength of the adhesive tape, we additionally fix it with carnations.

We close the gaps of the internal slopes

When there are still cracks and they need to be hidden, the most effective and most commonly used method is to use a special putty. You should not use gypsum putties - they do not bind to plastic, crack and a crack will appear immediately after drying. Epoxy putties are much more effective, but resin is difficult to remove from plastic and sanding causes scratches.

The best putty for plastic is acrylic! This is a material that goes well with plastic, a large selection of colors to match the window sill or panel. Acrylic is sold in buckets or tubes, from which it is squeezed out using a building syringe. The nose of the tube can be cut off depending on the width of the gap. Some craftsmen use rubber spatulas to smooth out cracks. But the most convenient tool is your own index finger! To work with acrylic, the finger is moistened with water so that the sealant does not stick to the skin. Excess acrylic can be easily removed with a damp cloth. Do not work with acrylic from the bottom up. It is more convenient to first fill the gaps between the vertical panels and the top lintel, as well as the panels and the window frame. Gradually moving down, remove the slots on the side senvich panels, and finish by eliminating the slots at the joints with the window sill.

The manufacturer indicates the period of complete solidification of acrylic on the packaging, as a rule, it is up to a day, although polymerization begins immediately, under the top layer, acrylic will still be soft for a long time. On the second day, the gaps should be inspected - sometimes they draw in acrylic and you have to apply another layer.

Acrylic is better not to grind, but to remove the old one and apply a new one.

If it is not possible to avoid the appearance of cracks at the joints of the panels with the window sill, then other methods can also correct the situation. The first way is to cut a small piece from a plastic glazing bead that covers the joint, and glue it to the window sill with mounting glue. The edge facing the room is better to cut obliquely, decoratively. You can use an L-shaped profile instead of a glazing bead, but this option is worse, since the profile has low rigidity.

How to choose panels for slope installation

When choosing panels for mounting window slopes with your own hands, you should not opt for plastic seamless panels designed for ceilings! It is not difficult to determine the quality even in the store - on inappropriate panels, transverse and longitudinal stiffening ribs stand out. That is, all these lines will be perfectly visible in side daylight! In addition, these panels are not very durable, they are easy to push through even with your finger.

The choice of sandwich panels allows you to install slopes in a short time, and this slope will serve for a long time! In addition, polyethylene foam serves as an additional heat-insulating layer. That is, the slopes will not be cold, they will not be threatened by the appearance of mold.

Mounting foam to choose, preferably winter. It does not expand so rapidly and can be used even on frozen slopes. There are also types of foam that are specially made for gluing drywall, wooden beams.

Do-it-yourself video of installing slopes on plastic windows

We looked at how to make plastic slopes on windows with our own hands. Knowing the main points of installation, you can independently combine techniques and make beautiful internal slopes.

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Reading 9 min.

When installing a plastic window, as a rule, the window opening loses its attractiveness. In this case, potholes, cracks, remnants of mounting foam appear. What to do?

There is a simple way out - to make high-quality external slopes. To do this, it is enough to choose the right mounting material and perform work using existing technologies.

Let us dwell in more detail on issues related to the finishing of external slopes.

Appointment of external slopes

The coating inside the window opening, which protects the window profile from environmental influences, is called a slope. Conventionally, by location, it is customary to distinguish external and. Although they are parts of the window opening, each has its own function.

The main functions of external slopes include:

giving the glass unit an attractive appearance. A high-quality window construction should not adjoin a broken wall;

increasing the level of thermal and sound insulation. Without high-quality slopes, it is impossible to create the necessary tightness of double-glazed windows, which means that the room will not be protected from the street;

protecting the window frame from environmental influences. A well-equipped slope protects the mounting elements of the structure from corrosion, in addition, the possibility of freezing and fogging of the double-glazed window is reduced. In any case, a protected window frame lasts longer, which means that it does not need to be repaired or replaced often.

During the installation of plastic windows, installers rarely trim the outer slopes at the same time. This work is much more expensive than installation and is performed separately.

The sun destroys the mounting foam

Advice!

It is better not to postpone the finishing of the outer slopes for a long time. Firstly, unprotected polyurethane foam has no strength, and secondly, it will have a bad effect on the condition of the window frame.

About materials

All materials for slopes create their own decorative look and different levels of protection for the glass unit.

When finishing, the advantages and disadvantages of materials must be taken into account. Typically, the following materials are used for finishing work on external slopes.

Stucco mixture.

Plastering has been a well-known method for a long time. The plaster mixture is prepared from different compositions. For outdoor work, you can not use a mixture with gypsum, as it absorbs moisture and then crumbles.

The advantages of the plaster mixture include:

the ability to cover any surface;

economic benefit;

high resistance to moisture penetration.

The owners of plastic windows note the following disadvantages of plastered slopes:

high labor intensity and duration of work. The solution is applied in layers;

low thermal insulation qualities of plaster can lead to freezing of slopes. In addition, condensation may accumulate and fungus may form.

Plastic.

Plastic panels have a hollow structure

The material is successfully used in window openings overlooking a loggia or balcony.

For slopes, sheet plastic or plastic panels are used.

The advantages of plastic slopes include:

the glossy surface is in harmony with the window profile;

good thermal insulation qualities, if you put a heater;

a wide variety of color options;

quick and easy installation with minimal waste;

long service life.

Hello!

Have you looked at my page again to learn something new from the field of building finishing works?

We will talk about the process that is a consequence and an integral part of the work associated with the installation of plastic windows - finishing the internal slopes.

I hope that for those who decide to independently perform the installation and finishing of slopes, this article will become a practical guide for this type of construction work.

How to make interior window slopes

To learn how to design internal slopes yourself, you first need to decide what kind of slopes you will do.

It is clear that:

their plane should be even, without cracks;
the side and top lines of the junction with the wall are straight;
on all three sides, the slope should cover the window frame with the same grip;
the dawn angles of the side slopes must be identical to each other.

These are common truths known to all. Well, how to ensure that the slopes meet these requirements, we will talk a little later - after we decide what building material will form their basis.

Meanwhile, the choice of material from which the slope in your house will be made is not such an easy question as it seems, so we will consider it in more detail.

What material

What is the further arrangement of a window opening after a window block has been installed in this opening? That's right, next comes the finishing of the slopes of this opening with one of the building materials, the list of which begins with classic plaster and ends with wooden clapboard.

It is necessary to choose the material for covering the slopes, starting from the purpose of the room in which the window opening is located.

Let's look at some of the options:

the interior of the room is stylized as a natural wood finish, and the owner wants to emphasize this direction in every detail, even in the arrangement of the window opening. In this case, MDF panels, PVC panels, laminate, laminated fiberboard, natural wooden lining can come to the rescue. Naturally, MDF, PVC, fiberboard and laminate should have an imitation of wood. It is worth noting that in order to avoid a sharp dissonance with the slopes, the plastic window must also be laminated to match the texture and color of the wood;
in the room a style corresponding to the concept of "minimalism", where nothing should be conspicuous, including window openings. In this option, classic plastered, puttied and painted slopes are the best choice. If the window frame of a plastic window is standard white, then it is better to paint the slopes in matte white;
a window opening is located in a room where the window is permanently covered with a curtain or curtain. If the window is out of sight, and its aesthetic component does not play a role in the decoration of the room, the slopes can be quickly and easily decorated with a plastic panel with a color similar to the color of the window frame;
the window is installed in the technical room or in the bathroom. As a rule, the decoration of the walls of these rooms is of a specific nature and, in most cases, it is tiling, sometimes (in the bathroom) - mosaics. The same materials (only after plastering) can be transferred to window slopes - it will be both stylish and practical.

Besides, for finishing window openings, you can use drywall, foam plastic and even metal. In what cases these types of finishes are used, I will tell you when we get closer to the specific cases of their installation on slopes.

As you can see, there is a choice of materials for slopes, and you have to make it.

The main types of internal window slopes for plastic windows

The problem with the question of what slopes will be made after the plastic windows are installed must be solved even before the installation of these windows.

Very often, an organization that installs window blocks can also provide a service for finishing slopes. If you want to see the slopes around the installed windows, then the easiest way is to find out if this organization has a similar service in its arsenal and what finishing options they can offer you.

Most often, plastic window installers offer to install slopes from PVC panels - this does not take much time and is quite economically feasible.

How to finish the slopes, see the video:

From PVC panels

If the distance from the frame to the plane of the inner wall is not very large (up to 37 cm), then it can be closed with one plastic panel. In houses with a solid wall thickness and, accordingly, a large window opening, two panels can be joined, which, of course, is not very good, because their joint is quite noticeable.

P PVC panels, from which the slope is made, must be mounted on a pre-arranged frame. Often, installers neglect this condition, and the whole installation consists in inserting the panel into the outer F-shaped bar fixed along the edge of the slope and the initial profile fixed to the window frame.

Such negligence threatens that when pressing on the panel, it can simply fall under the slats, and then it will not be so easy to put it in its place.

The appearance of slopes made of plastic - as they say, "an amateur."

Some of the owners of plastic slopes are simply delighted - this finish does not require special care, there are no marks left on it, it merges with the window frame, and besides, it is perfectly flat and smooth.

And some notice that after installing the plastic on the slopes, at the time when the sun's rays hit it, an unpleasant smell appears in the room. The plastic itself from exposure to the sun begins to turn yellow over time, and it looks too artificial material.

For those who do not like PVC slopes, the main complaint expressed is the poor quality of the panels. This issue can be resolved by choosing certified products, the technical characteristics of which indicate that it is intended for use in different weather conditions.

From plaster composition

Let me state right away that stucco slopes are a bad solution for finishing openings in a wooden house.

In principle, they can be made on wooden slopes: install a plaster mesh and apply a plaster composition on it. But the whole question is, how long will this slope last before it starts to crack, because the tree starts to “play”? I'm sure not for long.

For this reason plaster slopes are the privilege of houses in which window openings are made of brick and concrete.

Finishing slopes with plaster is considered not so much laborious as a lengthy process.

First you need to prime the base and let it dry. Then you should spray (for better adhesion) from the plaster composition, if we are dealing with a slope device in a panel or a monolithic house, and let the composition dry again.

Depending on the thickness of the layer that needs to be thrown onto the slope, the plaster has to be applied several times, and before each next throw, the previous layer must dry completely.

After the applied layers have completely dried, the slope is again primed and puttied, at least two times.

Then the dried putty is cleaned with sandpaper to bring the treated surface to an ideal state, and again primed.

The last stage is the application of two layers of paint.

Pay attention to how many times you need to stop before proceeding to the next stage of finishing?

Many times, and all this takes time, which, as you know, for any builder is money. Therefore, do not be surprised when, in order to make a slope of plaster, you will be asked for an amount three to four times the cost of the device on the same plastic slope window.

If you are promised to make a slope of plaster in a day or two, then be prepared for the fact that its surface will soon be covered with a grid of cracks, and this will not be the worst thing.

The main trouble that can happen with the surface that is plastered in violation of technology is its complete separation from the base. So think about what is better: patiently wait until each applied plaster layer dries and shrinks, or do everything quickly and at one not at all perfect moment see pieces of plaster that have fallen off the upper slope on the windowsill.

By the way, since we remembered the upper slope, I can say that often experienced builders, instead of throwing plaster on the upper slope (due to the particular complexity of this work), follow the path of least resistance and install a sheet of moisture-resistant drywall on it.

It turns out a combined type of finish: on the vertical sides - plaster, and on top - drywall.

This is how we smoothly approached the next popular material used for finishing slopes - dry plaster or sheet drywall.

Plastic window slope finishing technology in the video:

https://youtu.be/UQP_JozDJ1s

From drywall

There are two ways to fix drywall on the surface of a window opening:

stick on a special adhesive composition;
screw on a metal or wooden frame.

Gluing is an easier and more affordable way.

From a sheet of moisture-resistant drywall (necessarily moisture-resistant, since the slope is a zone of high humidity), the first blank for the upper slope is cut. Its length should be equal to the distance between the side slopes, and in width - a couple of centimeters more than the distance from the window frame to the wall plane.

It is desirable that the side of the workpiece that touches the frame has an unfinished "factory" joint. It is easier to putty, and it is less than the cut edge is destroyed by mechanical stress.

After making sure that the workpiece is suitable in size, you need to prepare one board a little less than the length of the workpiece, and two more supports - equal in length to the distance from the window sill to the upper slope.

Several adhesive cakes are applied to the inside of the workpiece, after which it is fixed on the upper part of the opening with a board supported by props.

Blanks for side slopes are cut according to the same pattern: length from the window sill to the upper slope; the width from the frame to the wall with a margin of a couple of centimeters.

After the mandatory fitting, the same adhesive must be applied to the inner surface and ensure contact with the side wall of the window opening.

It should be noted that immediately after contact with the surface of the opening, the workpiece must be leveled. To do this, you need to attach a plank level to their surfaces in two places - near the frame and in the area of \u200b\u200bthe junction with the wall of the room.

After the drywall is glued, you can cut off its protruding part along the plane of the wall and proceed with puttying and painting.

Installing drywall on a slope using a frame is a relatively difficult task. In this case, much depends on how much space is allocated for installation and to what surface the frame should be attached.

Non-traditional materials

The slopes of the interior room are not just the surface between the window frame and the wall of the room in which the window opening is located. Slopes, in the first place - a structural element of the entire building, which, like the window unit, is endowed with certain technical functions and is responsible for the atmosphere in a particular room, and, consequently, for the comfort of living.

If the slopes in the house are not part of the decorative design, but only fully fulfill their heat and moisture protective functions, then, as a rule, no one notices them. But as soon as mold or fungus appears on the wall where the window opening is located, the search for the cause of this problem immediately begins.

Freezing of slopes, flaking of paint from their plastered surface, the appearance of condensate on the slope of PVC, peeling of paper from the surface of drywall - these and other defects force builders to look for other approaches that give better results to finish the internal surfaces of window openings.

Three-layer panels

Sandwich panels made of plastic and polystyrene are designed for decoration and insulation of premises. We are used to the fact that this material is used for the construction of insulated buildings, that it has large dimensions and solid thickness.

But competition forces manufacturers of building materials to quickly meet all the needs of a rapidly growing construction market, so the market special sandwich panels appeared for finishing slopes indoors.

Outwardly, a slope made of a sandwich is difficult to distinguish from one made of a PVC panel - it is also white, it has the same plastic surface. But there are significant differences in terms of quality.

Sandwich panel is an excellent thermal insulation material.

Between its two plastic sheets, a heat insulator (styrofoam) is glued, which, in addition to retaining heat, also serves as a good barrier to sound waves.

A sandwich, unlike plastic, is a rather hard material, and it is quite difficult to damage it.

The thickness of the sandwich panel is the same as that of plastic, so it is mounted according to the same principle - using the F-shaped initial and corner profiles.

So that the appearance of the slopes remains practically unchanged and does not depend on whether a sandwich panel is installed on it or a PVC panel is fixed.

Penoplex

Extruded polystyrene foam is not exactly a common material for trimming slopes, however, it can also be used for this purpose by experienced trimmers.

This material can be used in cases where it is required:

make the warmest possible slope;
fill too large a distance from the outer plane of the future slope to the plane of the opening;
install a sufficiently moisture-resistant material on the slope.

Thickness (from 20 mm and above), as well as sufficient rigidity and moisture resistance of foam plastic, easily allow you to perform these three tasks.

Internal foam slopes are installed in the same way as drywall slopes- can be glued or attached to the frame.

The only difference between the finishes of these two materials is that the surface of the drywall is puttied without additional conditions, and on the foam, in view of the rigidity of its surface, before applying the putty, you need to glue the masking fiberglass - “spider line”.

The algorithm for plastering PVC window slopes in the video:

Decorative rock

There are many ways to create the right atmosphere in a single room. Finishing slopes is one of them.

For example, if, according to the designer’s idea, there is a wall or part of it inside the room, finished with decorative stone, then the appearance of this finishing option on the window slopes will be not only a logical, but also an original continuation of the interior solution.

For the bathroom, a natural solution would be to continue the wall pattern, transferred to the plane of the slopes. Often in bathrooms and technical rooms, instead of a plastic window sill, the same finish (tiles or mosaics) is installed on the lower part of the opening, which is on the walls and on the slopes.

Moreover, nothing special needs to be done in preparing the surface for this kind of finish. Tiles, mosaics, decorative stone can be glued to a plastered or plasterboard-covered surface.

Technical points of installation of plastic slopes

The installation of the window block is followed by the finishing of the window opening, that is, the planes adjacent to the window of the upper and side slopes, as well as the installation of the window sill.

Without these elements of the interior decoration of the room, the window will not fully cope with the functions that are inherent in its technical characteristics, and, in general, will not be able to look like a finished product.

On one very important point preceding the device of slopes, I want to draw your attention separately.

Particular attention deserves the preparation of the surface of the window opening for finishing.

Even if the slope itself, made, for example, from sandwich panels or foam plastic, is a heat insulator, then the adjoining of the window frame to the slope plane must still be done using a special technology.

The principle of this technology has long been formulated and confirmed by many years of experience. It consists in the following: the vapor permeability of all adjoining layers must have a certain order.

From the inside, the barrier should be the most gas-vapor-tight, and its density should gradually decrease as it approaches the outer part of the window opening. This is done so that even the minimum moisture, which in any case has the ability to penetrate the slope, finds a way out.

Subject to this rule, a well-arranged adjoining of the window to the frame looks like this:

from the side of the room, the first (most impervious) layer should consist of butyl rubber tape, for a greater reflective effect covered with aluminum sputtering. Sometimes, instead of a special tape, the junction is smeared with mastic or silicone, but an effect equal to that obtained when using a butyl rubber tape can only be obtained if the mastic layer is at least 6 mm;
the second layer is ordinary polyurethane foam, which is no longer a good gas-vapor-tight composition, but due to its qualities it can hold back moisture and (which it does especially well) sound waves;
the third, outer layer, is a self-expanding tape pre-compressed and after gluing onto the frame - PSUL. It protects the mounting foam from exposure to sunlight, passes air well, but prevents the penetration of atmospheric precipitation.

If the connection is made in accordance with all the rules, then you can start building the frame. To do this, you need to stock up on a 60x27 metal wall profile, from which a supporting frame for drywall is usually arranged.

First, a piece of profile is cut along the length equal to the distance from the frame to the edge of the slope. Then, a cutout is made on one side of it, which is folded over and, using short self-tapping screws with a press washer, is attached to the very edge of the window frame in such a way as to be subsequently completely covered by the initial bar.

The opposite side of the profile, after bending the shelves, is nailed to the outer edge of the opening with dowel-nails.

All profiles exposed on the same plane (they must be installed at a distance of 30 cm from each other and without fail directly above the window sill and in the corners at the joints of the panels) should be aligned with a stretched cord.

Another technical point you can take into service if you have to do the finishing of the slopes yourself. And also knowledge of this nuance will not be superfluous when you have to control the work of finishers.

I want to tell you how to properly connect at the junction of the slope and the window frame. For slopes made of plastic panels, foam plastic and sandwich panels, what I will say is irrelevant, but plastered or plasterboard surfaces should have this structural element.

Many paid attention to the fact that with sharp blows of the sash on the window frame, putty or even pieces of plaster in the place where the slope covers the frame gradually begin to crack and fall off.

The main negative role in the appearance of this defect is played by the vibration of the plastic surface of the frame profile. No matter how well the plaster or drywall holds, the putty covering the joint will inevitably crumble due to mechanical stress.

You can avoid such trouble before puttying, for which you need to clean the junction and fill it with silicone - it will dampen the vibration, and also reliably close the junction from the passage of moisture and air.

If it is required that the silicone gasket is not conspicuous and is the same color as the slope, then Acrylic silicone is best suited for these purposes., which can have different colors, and even, if necessary, its surface can be painted in any desired shade.

Slopes as an element of interior decoration

According to one of the dictionaries, the word "escarpment" means a sloping descent or an inclined surface.

It is this definition that is most suitable for those planes that we call window slopes. If the plane of the slopes (whether side or top) is in a strictly perpendicular position to the window frame, then such a slope is considered to be installed in violation of standard requirements.

One of the standards considered mandatory in the construction of window slopes states that each slope plane must have a certain turn in relation to the window frame, called the "angle of dawn".

The dawn angle of the slope plane must be greater than 90 0 relative to the plane of the window block installed in the opening.

All slopes, both side and top, as a rule, should have the same dawn angle, but in practice this rule is not always possible to implement. More often you can find an option when the upper slope is deployed in relation to the frame, but differs in the angle of dawn from the side ones, which should have exactly the same dawn among themselves.

There are no clearly defined parameters that limit the required angle of dawn. It all depends on how much the opening will allow the slope to unfold, and on how the slopes are seen by the owner of the house in which they are settled.

Checking the angle of dawn on an already established slope or, if necessary, calculating it yourself is not difficult. For this procedure, you do not need special goniometers, just a regular ruler and a regular square.

On the edge of the window frame along the edge itself, you need to put a square so that you can measure the distance to the junction of the slope with the wall of the room on which the window opening is located with a ruler.

The resulting distance must be transferred to the opposite slope by setting the square to a point symmetrical to that used for measurement on the previous side.

In the same way, you can make the same dawn angle for the upper slope by placing a square on the edge of the upper crossbar of the frame and transferring the resulting distance to the junction of the upper slope with the wall of the room.

About the advantage of slopes from sandwich panels, see the video:

Advantages and disadvantages of PVC slopes

First of all, it is worth noting that all the shortcomings of plastic slopes lie in the quality of the PVC panels themselves and in poor-quality preparation of the junction of the window and the walls of the opening.

Only the quality of the plastic affects whether the color of this plastic will change during operation. Sometimes plastic, being completely white when installed, loses its color over time or, when the temperature rises (for example, under the influence of ultraviolet rays), it emits an unpleasant odor.

How to deal with this shortcoming, I think, and without me, many will guess on their own - you need to check the quality characteristics of the PVC panel before it is installed in the window opening.

As for poor-quality preparation, then if you decide to install the slopes yourself, you must comply with the conditions that I have already written about in this article.

And in the event that the slopes in your house are made by the construction team, then careful and total control is necessary during the work.

Only after a control check of the device where the frame adjoins the slope can the builders be given the go-ahead for further work.

We talked about the disadvantages, now let's move on to the advantages.

Let's start with the main advantage: the slope, made of plastic, is a collapsible structure.

It is not difficult to disassemble the structure, the basis of which is a frame made of a metal profile or wooden bars.

And if the builders took the path of least resistance (simply speaking, cheated) and, elementarily, inserted the plastic into the fixed strips, then by simply pressing on the panel, you can easily see everything that is under it, and, if necessary, correct the shortcomings made during the device adjoining the frame and window.

The next thing to note is ease of maintenance of the plastic surface. It is difficult to get it dirty, but even if such a nuisance occurs, washing the plastic is as easy as shelling pears.

It can be said that a plastic slope is the most suitable continuation of the finish surrounding the plastic window. And even for the slopes of a wooden house or a room with a “wood-like” finish, it is quite easy to pick up plastic panels that match the color and texture of the material with which the room is decorated.

PVC panels have another clear advantage over other materials used for window slopes - minimum time for their installation.

In addition, when installing plastic slopes in the room where the work is carried out, there is much less “noise and dust”. This is very important in cases where the owners do not plan to do a complete renovation of the room, but are only going to replace the window and install slopes.

Some people who have installed PVC slopes in their apartment note one drawback, which, in their opinion, is striking.

We are talking about an F-shaped bar, more precisely, about that part of it that covers the edge of the plastic at the junction with the wall. It is noted that this part of the bar is too wide (from 3 to 6 cm) and does not look very aesthetically pleasing on the inner wall of the room.

I can suggest how to get rid of this, if I may say so, disadvantage.

It is enough just to treat the protruding surface of the plank a little with fine sandpaper, then prime it, and then you can apply anything on it - from wallpaper to acrylic paints.

Speaking about the technical and quality aspects of plastic slopes, I forgot to say that for many it is a decisive argument in their favor - the cost of materials and installation work. Here, of course, plastic has no competitors.

The material for plaster slopes is also not expensive in itself, but the work on the device will require considerable financial investments (I have already considered this issue).

materials

So, the window block has taken its place in the window opening, the mounting foam has dried, the window junctions are hydro- and gas-insulated, which means that you can proceed with the installation of slopes. What will be required for this? Let's start with materials.

If future slopes will be made of plastic panels, then you need to prepare:

PVC panels, their usual length is 3m.p. Since the panels on the slopes do not join in length, it means that a whole blank is needed for each slope. A standard 1400x1300mm window will require two panels. It is better if there are several windows. In this case, waste-free production can be organized. Oh, and don't forget to find panels that match the width of the slope;
the strips that will serve as a border and hold the panel are F-shaped, starting and connecting the inner corner of the profile. These profiles do not have to be placed in whole pieces on long sections; with careful trimming, their joints are almost invisible;
for the construction of the frame, it is desirable to use a conventional metal profile 60x27mm, which is used when installing drywall;
self-tapping screws with a press washer 4.2x13. The head of these screws is very flat and will not interfere with the plastic. For a standard window of such self-tapping screws, about 50-70 pieces are needed;
dowel-nails 6x60 for nailing a metal profile to the wall;
silicone bottle, preferably white.

We have assembled a set of materials necessary for the slope device. So, it's time to take care of the availability of a tool, without which it is impossible to assemble the frame and install plastic on it.

The tool needed for the installation of plastic slopes

From the construction tool we need:

tape measure, the length of which is at least 2m;
plank level from 60 to 120 cm long;
screwdriver for tightening self-tapping screws;
perforator for mounting dowel-nails;
drill 6x100mm;
a set of nozzles for tightening screws;
a hammer;
a hacksaw with a fine tooth or a construction knife for cutting plastic panels;
metal scissors;
silicone gun.

When everything you need for the slope device will lie next to the window opening, you can get to work. I already described the installation process in detail in this article.

Let me remind you only that the initial profile is placed at the adjunction of the panel to the window frame and at the place where the panel rests on the window sill.

The profile of the inner corner connects the PVC panels to each other at the place of their corner joints.

The F-profile serves to fasten the outer side of the PVC panel, as well as to hide its adjoining to the interior wall.

Some builders, for better thermal insulation of the slope, foam the space under the plastic. It seems to me that such insulation gives only moral satisfaction to those who use this method, and does not bring practical benefits.

I'll explain why.

In order for the mounting foam to fulfill its function, it must fill a space that is closed at least on both sides. A simple, unrestricted application of foam on the wall will be uneven, and therefore useless. If you try to apply foam between a sloped panel and a wall, the result will be deplorable, since the foam will inevitably squeeze out the plastic.

If there is a desire, in addition to a properly arranged junction, to additionally insulate the space under the panel, then you can go the other way. To do this, you need foam and glue to fix it.

The foam is selected in thickness so as not to interfere with the plastic panel, is applied to the wall of the opening and glued.

Such internal insulation of the slope is both reliable and does not threaten any troubles during the production of work.

One more nuance you can take note of. Before installing the plastic panel, it is desirable to cut off its mounting spike, then the front part will go deeper into the initial profile and, therefore, will be more securely fixed in it.

Technology for leveling plastic slopes in the video:

What material are the best slopes?

Such a statement of the question is not entirely correct, it is better to reformulate it in a different way: in which room is it best to install a certain type of slopes. In this case, you can give the most correct answer.

If the room is finished under a tree

For a room in which the main element of decoration is natural wood or imitation wood, slopes can also be made either from natural wood - lining, or from wood-laminated plastic, or from fiberboard also coated with lamination.

What is good about this type of finishing slopes? First of all, a modest expenditure of money, if a plastic panel is taken as the basis for the finishing material.

The only thing I would like to note is that wood and laminated fiberboard are still afraid of high humidity.

Therefore, if the question is only that the appearance of the slopes continues the wooden theme of the room, then it is still better to install plastic under the tree. This is all the more simple because the choice of options for plastic panels on the construction market today, as they say, is for every taste and color.

Standard solution to the problem with the installation of slopes

Slopes made of plaster composition, puttied and painted are pure classics, and like any classic, they can fit any interior solution, except for wood finishes.

The advantage of plastered slopes is their solidity and reliability, as well as the ability to absorb and release moisture. In other words, they can breathe.

However, plaster has much more disadvantages:

before plastering, it is necessary to thoroughly insulate the walls of the openings. If this is not done with special care, then the plaster may freeze through, since it is not a heat-shielding compound in itself;
as a rule, acrylic paint is applied to the plastered slope with the last finishing layer, which has to be updated periodically;
the sloping process takes a lot of time (of course, if all operations are carried out according to the technology);
the cost of installing a plastered slope is much higher than the cost of installation using methods using other materials.

Non-standard approach

A new type of slope finishing is a cork coating on their surface.

Although cork belongs to materials that imitate a wooden surface, but, in my opinion, on the slopes it looks like a completely independent element of decoration.

Everything that has a smooth and even surface can serve as the basis for cork: plaster, drywall. The cork can be glued to plastic using a special adhesive composition.

Each house has rooms that can be described as special or designed for certain purposes. These include a swimming pool, boiler room, bathroom, laundry.

Since the premises are defined as “special”, the approach to finishing their slopes can be highly specialized.

What are the requirements for finishing window openings in such premises? They must be reliable, do not absorb moisture, maintainable and do not lose their appearance from frequent washing.

Under the required conditions, only ceramic tiles glued to a plastered base are suitable. You can, of course, glue the tiles on drywall fixed to the frame, but then this slope will not fit the definition of “repairable”, because a broken or cracked tile can only be removed together with the base - drywall.

Finishing the slopes with the help of plasterboard installed on the frame and puttied and painted is also one of the ways to ennoble the appearance of the window opening.

Why do I classify drywall installation as a non-standard slope finishing method? Because it is necessary to use this method only in the case when the slopes will not be in a zone of high humidity.

And you need to remember that only moisture-resistant drywall can be used for finishing slopes.

Although its use does not guarantee complete moisture protection, as, for example, in the case of finishing slopes with PVC panels.

popular way

The logic that guides those who decide to decorate the window openings of their apartment with plastic is quite simple: if the window is made of PVC, then why not make slopes from the same material?

And the correctness of this logic begins to be confirmed from the very first moment, when the builders start working on the device slopes.

In the event that the finishing of the slopes takes place in a living room where other repairs are not carried out, except for replacing the window, this method is indeed the least traumatic for the psyche of the owners of this room, since it does not take much time and practically leaves no traces.

The next plus: if necessary, the plastic can be easily dismantled and checked, what state is the space under it.

Perhaps this dignity will seem to someone an unnecessary thing, but, based on my experience, I can say that this is not so.

Let me tell you why I think so.

Sometimes it happens that after installing a hermetically sealed window in a poorly ventilated room, dark spots appear on the walls, especially in the area of \u200b\u200bthe window opening and in the corners - this problem is called “mold formation”.

The fight against this phenomenon, long and difficult, begins with the discovery of the causes of mold, and they (reasons) can be of the most diverse properties. We will consider them all in detail if you have a question on this topic.

In the meantime, I will focus on one of them, which directly relates to our today's conversation. This reason is that the window opening, that is, the area around the window, closed by slopes, can become the initial place of mold.

Mold can form anywhere, but for this you need to comply with several mandatory conditions: high humidity, lack of access to fresh air, variable temperature, lack of sunlight.

If the adjoining of the window block with the wall of the opening is made in violation of the rules that I have already told you about, then inevitably, whether under plaster or under plastic, mold will begin to appear.

True, mold travels a longer path in plaster until it comes out, but when it appears on the surface of the slope, it can be completely destroyed only by completely dismantling the plaster. Which, as you can imagine, is not an easy task.

When the reason for the appearance of mold is not clear, the only way to find out is to look at all the places where its victorious move around the apartment may have begun.

First of all, you will probably want to look at what is being done under the slope plastic, and make sure that the window connection is reliable. It was then that all the charm of the quick-collapsing frame for PV X panels, which you will install in your apartment, will be revealed.

Another item in the piggy bank of the advantages of plastic slopes is their cost. b. Even if the cost of materials is added to the cost of work, then plastic slopes are out of competition.

Moreover, the installation of PVC slopes will be out of competition if you do them yourself, guided by my recommendations and spending only:

your personal time;
a small amount of money for building materials;
a certain amount of money for a construction tool, which will probably come in handy more than once.

I think we can add a clause here about the mandatory presence of a protective tape on the window profile, which many people are in a hurry to remove immediately after installing the window block.

You should be aware that this protection element is immediately dismantled only from the outside s, since there is a possibility of welding it to plastic under the influence of high temperature and sunlight.

On the inside of the window frame, the protective tape can only be removed after finishing the slopes.

Otherwise, damage to the surface of the window profile is possible, especially during plastering work.

Starting the finishing of the slopes, you need to take care of maintaining the window sill in a pre-repair condition. In terms of protection, special hopes cannot be placed on the film that is applied to its surface, because a tool that accidentally falls out of the hands can leave an “indelible” mark on the surface of the window sill. Therefore, for the time being, while the slopes are being arranged, it is best to put a piece of thick cardboard on the windowsill.

If the finishing of the slopes consists in applying a plaster composition, then a prerequisite for the further normal operation of the curtains of the window sashes is their preservation from sand from the solution. Some builders who did not pay attention to such a "trifle" after a while have to explain to the owners of the installed windows why the curtains suddenly began to creak and dangle.

Finally, I again want and must remind everyone who is going to replace window blocks in their house and, of course, after this work, arrange window slopes: the basis for the long-term service of any material that is used for decoration (even the most popular - plastic) is a high-quality arrangement of places adjoining the frame to the window opening.

For the angle of turn of the slopes of plastic windows, see the video:

The owners of apartments and private houses who have installed plastic windows often have a desire to streamline the surfaces of window openings. Often this is required due to damage to old slopes during the dismantling of previous windows. Finishing slopes is also carried out to enhance the heat and sound insulation of window openings.

Finishing the slopes of your plastic windows can be done in several ways. Each has its pros and cons, and can be carried out with the participation of a heater. For the design of window openings, PVC panels, drywall or plaster can be used together with a putty mixture.

Slopes from panels for plastic windows, it is very easy to fix with your own hands. For this, plastic lining and additional fittings are used, which are designed to hide the joints between the panels horizontally and vertically, and the gaps on the lines in which they adjoin the window frame.

PVC panels - a popular way to finish window openings

In addition to lining, residents often use sandwich panels made specifically for finishing window openings. The panels are made from several smooth layers of plastic, between which there is foamed polystyrene. Installation of slopes from this material will become a little easier, because you do not have to separately fix the insulation. This method also allows you to do without the use of some fittings.

Along with ordinary plastic clapboard, sandwich panels will help you quickly and accurately decorate windows with your own hands. You can always choose not only the thickness, but also the color of the finish. Properly selected shade will help to highlight window openings against the background of the general interior of the room.

Before installing the products, as in the case of other types of finishes, you need to carefully study the instructions and follow them throughout the work.

The application of plaster on the surface of window openings is considered to be a traditional method of finishing. Properly applied material is able to last for a long time without losing its original appearance. At the same time, do not forget that "bare" plaster will not give residents protection from the cold, and in this case it is not possible to install heat-insulating materials. Among the disadvantages of this method, the duration of the finishing work stands out, since the material must be applied in several layers, each of which must dry completely. To make such internal slopes for your plastic windows, you must have experience in working with plaster. Otherwise, you risk making a mistake and ruining the entire opening.

Finishing with plaster is a rather "dirty" event. Working with this material, you will be forced to clean the room almost daily or not use it at all for several weeks.

Often, property owners use drywall for finishing. Installing slopes on plastic windows made of this material is quite simple. The lining will last a long time, and thanks to the insulation, it will not allow cold air to seep into the room. At its core, drywall is dry plaster, but its installation will take much less time and effort. This method does not involve the appearance of stains on windows or wall trim, and it does not require any experience. It is enough to follow the instructions given by the manufacturer.

There are several types of drywall on the market today. The highest quality material is green with the marking "GKLV". It is resistant to high humidity.

The only disadvantage of this method is the possible complications in the finishing of the material - primer and putty. Without them, drywall will quickly become unusable, as it has a fragile structure.

By the same principle, panels are fixed on the sides of the window opening. If, after installing the sandwich panels, there are gaps between them, then they must be filled with mounting foam. As soon as it dries, its excess pieces are cut off with a clerical knife. After this, the joints are closed with special profiles - platbands. To fix these elements are used.

Plastering window openings - how to do it yourself?

When making slopes of plaster for plastic windows, you will need to install metal guides around the perimeter. They are better than wooden slats as they have low adhesion and will be much easier to remove. The guides must be fixed with dowels so that they protrude beyond the corners of the window opening to the planned thickness of the plaster layer.

Another guide must be fixed near the window frame. When installing, be guided by the first guide, as the applied plaster will be aligned along the plane specified by both guides.

After that, start throwing plaster on the surface. At this stage, try to make the outer corner as even as possible. By the same principle, plaster is applied to the surface in the upper part of the window opening. Next level the layer of plaster. At the same time, the main thing for you at this stage is not a perfectly even coating, but filling the edges of the slope and grooves with plaster. The leveling of the surface itself must be performed after the mortar has set with the walls of the opening. To do this, install the building rule on the guides, and gently lift it up, thereby gently leveling the thrown mortar. After that, remove the excess plaster and leave the material to dry completely.

After that, you will need to remove the outer guides, and install perforated paint corners in the corners. Then another plaster layer is applied to the dry surface, the height of which should correspond to the height of the paint corner.

The final third layer must be applied with a special finishing putty, and it must have a thickness of no more than 1 mm. It is best to apply the material with a wide spatula, pressing it lightly against the surface. Traces left by the tool must be leveled immediately.

The final step will be smoothing the finish with a special grout. To do this, attach the product to the dry putty and start moving your hand in a circle counterclockwise. If in the future you plan to paint the slopes, then before that they will need to be primed. The primer will prevent the paint from seeping into the putty, resulting in a more even layer of paint.