What paint to paint metal at sub-zero temperatures. Bases for painting various surfaces at sub-zero temperatures. Storage temperature of paints and varnishes
The need to paint a concrete floor, fence, facade or metal structures is also present in winter time when it is cold outside and the temperature reaches -15C°. Not every paint or primer copes with this task. Many paints and varnishes cannot be used in the cold, therefore, for outdoor use, in winter, special materials are needed that are suitable for use when negative temperatures and providing quality coating under these conditions.
NPP GC produces a number of special paints for the winter period in order to provide its customers with the opportunity to perform work at any time of the year:
Winter paints for concrete and asphalt
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One-component polymer-acrylic enamel for concrete BETOXIL has proven itself perfectly when painting in winter. Forms a matte coating resistant to atmospheric precipitation and temperature changes from -40°С to +50°С.
BETOXIL can be used for exterior painting work on concrete at temperatures up to -15°C (on a dry, non-icy surface).
The basic color is light gray, dark gray, white, yellow, red-brown are tinted to order.
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Enamel "Protector-M" is used to protect concrete floors industrial and civil use, cement-sand screeds, plastered surfaces, bricks, curbs, for road marking of asphalt pavements, etc. Forms a particularly strong and durable coating with increased resistance to abrasion. Resistant to detergents, fats and atmospheric precipitation, limited resistance to oils, gasoline.
The material can be used for exterior painting work on concrete at temperatures up to -15°C (on a dry, non-icy surface).
The basic color is light gray, it can be tinted to order in a wide range of RAL colors (with an increase in cost).
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Polymer-acrylic paint is intended for application of protective and decorative coatings on the curbs of roads, sidewalks, garden borders, stairs and parapets, basement parts of facades of industrial and civil buildings. The composition has proven itself on roads, warehouses, garage complexes, etc. Forms a strong and durable coating. Resistant to the action of gasoline, oils, detergents, salts, fats and atmospheric precipitation, as well as to temperature changes from minus 40˚С to plus 50˚С. Can be used in winter at temperatures down to -15°C.
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Lacquer for concrete and mosaic floors.
"Lakotex" is intended for decorative and protective finishing of concrete floors, mosaic floors, cement-sand screeds, bricks, curbs, metal and wooden surfaces both indoors and outdoors. It can be used for outdoor work in the cold season, at temperatures down to -10°C.
Forms a coating with increased resistance to abrasion, resistant to detergents, fats, atmospheric precipitation and limited resistance to oils and gasoline.
It is applied to the prepared dust-free surface.
Paints and primers for metal for winter time
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Anti-corrosion enamel for metal with a 20-year service life for the protection of external surfaces, permanently installed equipment and metal structures exposed to atmospheric influences in tropical, temperate and cold climates. Provides long-term protection of the surface against corrosion, aggressive alkaline and acidic environments. The enamel film is resistant to temperature changes from -60°C to +95°C, protects the surface well and gives it an excellent aesthetic appearance. Enamel PROTEKTOR-MET FOR 20 YEARS can be used for outdoor work in winter - it is applied to non-iced metal structures at temperatures up to -15°C.
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"FOSGRUNT" is a one-component primer for cold phosphating of ferrous and non-ferrous metals, operating in the temperature range from -50 to 300°C. Combines barrier and chemical method protection of the metal, forming a layer of insoluble phosphates, which hinders the development of under-film corrosion. Dramatically increases the adhesion of the finish coat. Designed for anti-corrosion protection of new and old metal surfaces which are difficult to clean by sandblasting. Can be applied in dry weather on non-iced metal structures and metal surfaces at temperatures down to -10°C
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Provides long-term protection of the surface against corrosion, aggressive effects of the atmosphere, humidity, etc. It has a high hiding power, forms an even matte film. The enamel film is resistant to temperature changes from -50°C to +90°C, protects the surface well and gives it an excellent aesthetic appearance. The coating, consisting of two layers of "Zinc Coating Paint", applied to the prepared surface, in a temperate and cold climate retains its protective properties for long term without being destroyed. Can be applied in dry weather on non-iced metal structures and metal surfaces at temperatures down to -15°C
Two-component anticorrosive enamel on metal. For anti-corrosion protection of ferrous and non-ferrous metals. Can be applied to reinforced concrete. Elastic, waterproof, weather resistant. Scope of application: structures at the enterprises of the chemical, oil refining, pharmaceutical and food industries. Can be applied to metal surfaces at temperatures down to -10°C
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Kigol is a highly adhesive anti-corrosion two-component phosphating primer for the protection of ferrous metal, which has the properties of a rust converter. Designed for priming metal surfaces before application paintwork materials(LKM), without additional processing: phosphating and oxidation (immersion or impregnating method). It is allowed to use thin, firmly adhering layers of corrosion products and scale as a converter. It can be applied in dry weather on non-iced metal structures and metal surfaces at temperatures up to -10°С
Thermolen-400 paint is a one-component silicone enamel designed for anti-corrosion treatment of ferrous metals operating at temperatures up to +400°C. The material consists of a suspension of pigments and solvents with targeted additives in an organosilicon varnish. It is used at negative temperatures up to - 20°C.
Antacor plus is used to protect metal products (mainly carbon and low carbon steel and cast iron) from rust formation by converting corrosion to phosphate. protective film(cold phosphating technology), forming a chemically bound layer of phosphate insoluble salts of iron, manganese and zinc. Used at negative temperatures up to -15°C, high adhesion to metal surfaces, easy to use, compatible with all types of coatings
Frost-resistant facade and roof paints
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The paint is intended for painting and protecting the plinths of building facades on concrete, plastered and brick surfaces. It is possible to use paint for the plinth indoors with high humidity, underground garages, road tunnels. The paint is characterized by high vapor permeability and waterproofing properties and forms a "breathable" coating on the surface, allowing air to pass through, but impervious to water. Coating service life correct application at least 4 years. In addition, "SOCKOL-COLOR" has a high light resistance. Paint "SOCKOL-COLOR" is made using modern technologies from high-quality raw materials of domestic and foreign manufacturers. In winter, it can be applied at temperatures down to -20°C.
"Slate-Colour" - the paint is intended for painting slate, tiles, ATSEID, for the repair of old and the manufacture of new roofs based on mineral materials(slate, cement-sand tiles, concrete, plaster and cement particle boards, brick). The paint is resistant to atmospheric factors (snow, rain, ultraviolet). paint creates protective layer, which reduces the volume of asbestos emissions from asbestos-containing products into the surrounding air and increases the service life of slate by 1.5-2.5 times. "Slate-COLOR" is characterized by high vapor permeability and waterproofing properties and forms a "breathable" coating on the surface that allows air to pass through, but is impervious to water. It is possible to paint slate with this paint even in winter at temperatures down to -10°C.
Wood paints for outdoor use in winter
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For coloring wooden facades buildings and other wooden surfaces. Is different high level hiding power, weather resistant, chemical resistant detergents and UV radiation, water-repellent. It is used at negative temperatures up to -5°C.
Usually, painting work is planned for the warm season, when the temperature regime is most favorable for this. The lower recommended temperature threshold for painting is plus 5 degrees. But now there are many modern paints and soils that are suitable even for negative temperatures. In this regard, the minimum possible limit at which temperature you can paint on the street has changed.
Features of painting work in winter
In industrial conditions, the need for painting when low temperatures arises if you need to hand over the object on time, or you urgently need to update the surface of the building. In everyday life, such urgency is rarely observed, but it still happens. There are a number of painting features in the cold season:
- The most unfavorable temperature the use of paints, enamels and primers in winter - from minus 5 degrees to plus 5 degrees. Even in cold weather, it is better to work, because it is in the specified range that condensation will form on any surface. In the presence of moisture, the adhesion of the coating deteriorates greatly, the properties of the paints change. The quality of the coating is reduced, it will not last long.
- If you decide to paint facades in cold weather, you need to remember - facade paint any brand dries 2-3 times longer than in heat. To get a high-quality coating, you need to use a thermal gun for drying or stretch the film on scaffolding.
- You should choose only enamel suitable for the winter season, a primer. Using the wrong material will cause it to freeze, and the ice will not allow the product to be applied to the walls. The final result of the work depends on the quality of the paint.
A number of modern paints are perfectly applied at zero temperature and in frost, some can be applied down to -20 degrees. There is good means resistant to temperature extremes. It is important that the temperature of the paintwork material itself during operation be positive. If the material is cold, it is placed in a container in a bucket of warm water.
In the rules for the operation of the primer and paint in cold air, mandatory surface preparation is mentioned. You can not use coloring materials without certain actions:
- clear working area from the old coating;
- treat the surface with a sandblasting machine, sandpaper or in another convenient way;
- close up irregularities with putty;
- if technology requires, carry out priming (walls should be primed if indicated by the manufacturer on the package with paint).
Can't work if it's raining or snow - you need to wait for the onset of normal weather. It is necessary to carry out staining with a roller, brush, but it is better to forget about the spray gun - its nozzle will quickly clog.
The most important thing is to make the surface clean and dry. You should also bring the enamel to the desired viscosity. Usually water-based paints are used, which are diluted with water. It must be remembered that alkyd materials sharply increase the viscosity in the cold, and do not forget to dilute and heat them up in time.
Priming work
In winter, a primer is used that is resistant to low temperatures (frost-resistant soil). If iron is stained, special phosphating compounds are used. They can be applied over rust, as they include special anti-corrosion components. Priming provides additional protection against corrosion, increases the adhesion of the final coating.
Painting the facades of the house
Carrying out exterior facade work in winter is possible when choosing correct paint. After cleaning from dirt, dust, the walls are sanded, if there are areas of old paint or mold, they are removed. Next, the walls are primed with a product of the same brand with the main paint - this will improve the quality of the coating. They work with packages brought from the heat. As soon as the material begins to freeze, it is removed into heat, another package is taken out. The second coat of paint is usually applied after 3-5 days.
Painting bricks and surfaces with plaster
The coloring of such surfaces does not differ from that of the facades of the house. It is only important not to do the painting immediately after the masonry is completed - the work is postponed, the minimum period is a year. If you paint immediately, the coating will peel off. Surface preparation is required (cleaning with a brush from dirt, dust, mold). The chipped plaster is cleaned, the holes are sealed, and allowed to dry well. You can also fill deep holes with frost-resistant silicone sealant. After priming, the wall is allowed to dry for 5-7 days, then it is painted with a roller or brush.
Concrete processing
Concrete floors and walls have a porous surface. Also, the outer side of concrete products weather faster and the dye of the coating loses its brightness. Concrete staining can be done a year after installation, it is necessary to allow part of the concrete dust to escape. In some cases, it is possible to paint surfaces without curing - for example, in a workshop, in a warehouse, in a hangar.
Metal processing
In winter, it may be necessary to paint pipes, garage walls, iron sheathing of sheds, profiled fences, etc. The metal does not absorb moisture, so it does not change properties depending on the climate. For painting work, special compositions for metal should be used - at sub-zero temperatures they form a strong elastic film.
Tips for painting metal in winter:
- the surface must be dry, clean, free of rust with abrasive tools;
- if there is frost, the surface is treated with a flash gas burner- a brush or scraper will be ineffective;
- preliminarily carry out degreasing with isopropanol, acetone.
Wood painting
It is not recommended to paint wood, products from fiberboard, chipboard, lining in winter. If the house is wooden on the outside, it is better to leave its coloring until the warm season. Water accumulates between the fibers of the tree, which freezes in frost. The structure of the material expands, and the paint applied from above seals it in this state along with the ice. After thawing, the water begins to push out the paint, the latter does not stand up and goes in bubbles. Also under the enamel rotting of the tree begins.
If staining is urgently needed, a test is done first. Stick adhesive tape on the surface with a wide strip, leave for 2 days, then remove. If there is condensation on the tape, do not paint. With a dry strip, staining can be done after preliminary priming.
Painting work indoors
Painting a house inside during cold weather is much easier than doing outside work. But the specifics of painting must be taken into account.
Balcony
Painting a balcony or loggia in an apartment in winter may be required during the sale to improve the surface of walls, ceilings, and floors. The most difficult thing is to tint a cold balcony - it is better to wait for the positive temperature and only then carry out Painting works. If absolutely necessary, you can purchase paint that can withstand low temperatures, wait for a sunny day, make sure that the walls of the loggia are warm enough, and paint.
Coloring is carried out only in the morning - the coating will dry faster due to heating sunbeams. If there is an outlet, you can take out a heater to the insulated balcony, this will allow you to carry out work efficiently. Good for balcony acrylic water-based formulations- with their use, poisoning can be avoided, they are environmentally friendly, odorless. These colors enhance thermal insulation characteristics walls, allow them to "breathe", fade and collapse very slowly. If there are plastic or metal parts on the balcony, it is better to varnish them. The lining is covered with acrylic varnish.
Batteries
Painting a battery in winter has a number of features. To paint the radiator, you need to prepare a brush with metal bristles, brushes - simple and radiator with a long handle. You will also need sandpaper, dust brush, knife. Be sure to purchase a primer for metal, paint, solvent. The basic composition must necessarily be suitable for radiators and contain anti-corrosion additives, be non-toxic. Best suited means:
- acrylic;
- alkyd;
- water-dispersion;
- silicone;
- based on heat-resistant varnish;
- zinc.
How many degrees can these enamels withstand? They are designed for a standard temperature of +80 degrees. Some are available in aerosol form - they are sold by spray can, and even the most difficult colors can be easily painted by spraying. hard-to-reach places. Batteries for painting are best removed by shutting off the water supply. If this is not possible, it is worth waiting until the batteries are turned off in the spring. Hot batteries will be painted poorly, the coating will often swell. After cleaning the surface, it is primed, sequential painting is done in 2 layers. Each layer must dry completely.
Window
Coloring wooden windows in frost outside it is undesirable, as well as other wood products. Only the use of heat guns will make it possible to dry the product well, but the complexity of the work will increase significantly. From the inside, painting is carried out in the same way as it is done in warm weather. old paint need to be removed, primed the surface, then apply suitable composition. Plastic windows you can also paint with special paints if you want to update their color.
What colors are used in winter
Enamels and primers, which are used at low temperatures, are diverse. Their properties:
- do not freeze in the cold;
- suitable for different types materials;
- can be operated at temperatures up to -10 ... -20 degrees;
- form an elastic layer;
- Dries faster than regular paint.
Water-based paints
This type of paint is most in demand in winter. Very popular are the products of Dufa and Batilith, Dulux and Tikkurila, which produce many types of corresponding paints and varnishes. Good frost-resistant paints are produced by the German company Caparol. A number of manufacturers produce frost-resistant water-based paint AK-115, which can withstand up to -20 degrees below zero. Other known materials:
- parade f20;
- Lacra;
- Alpa Façade;
- primer Brite Professional;
- Vincent Muralith F1.
Oil paints
Oil materials are now almost not used. In terms of properties, they are much inferior water-based paints, their service life is not more than 2-3 years. It is necessary to dilute the funds with drying oil, special solvents. Only some paints marked PF, MA, GF are suitable for working in the cold.
Aerosol paints
Enamels in cylinders are used, for the most part, for painting batteries, cars, plastic products. They are quite expensive, but they create a high-quality coating. Popular brands are:
- maxi color;
- Colomix;
- dupli color;
- vixen.
Most paints of this type can be used down to -15 degrees.
Storage temperature of paints and varnishes
Usually allowable temperature storage is indicated on the packaging of the material. According to GOST, paints and varnishes can be stored at a temperature of -40 ... + 40 degrees, but individual conditions may exist for each specific material.
The industrial and construction complexes in our country do not take breaks for the winter, which means that the paint and varnish industry must also meet similar requirements. Although most enamels and lacquers require application at temperatures above 0°C, modern technologies allow the production of a number of materials suitable for dyeing in the cold season.
Regardless of the material, which is selected depending on the needs, the application itself at sub-zero temperatures has a number of features.
Firstly, an important factor when painting in the cold season is the preparation of the surface. If metal is to be painted, then it is necessary to thoroughly clean it from condensate and ice. And since in most cases it is impossible to cope with a thin layer of ice with brushes and scrapers, it is recommended to additionally heat the surface with a gas burner torch.
Secondly, painting at temperatures from -5°C to 5°C should be avoided, since it is in this temperature range that condensation and dew form on the metal surface. To avoid moisture condensation, the temperature of the surface to be painted must be at least 3°C above the dew point.
Thirdly, in winter period it is expedient to degrease metal surfaces with acetone or R-4 or R-5 solvents.
Fourthly, even if the manufacturer allows painting at temperatures below 0 ° C, such weather conditions cannot but affect the drying time of the coating - compared to the indicators indicated in the quality certificate, it will increase by 2 or even 3 times.
Separately, it is worth mentioning the storage of enamel - regardless of its composition, it should be stored exclusively in a warm room, in the future the surface to be painted and the paint should be at the same temperature. If possible, the surface to be painted must be warmed up.
The choice of paint and varnish material also needs to be approached very seriously, because the final result depends on this choice - the durability and functionality of the resulting coating.
Paints and varnishes that can be painted at low temperatures:
Enamel KO-870- heat-resistant anti-corrosion enamel KO-870 is designed for protective painting of equipment and metal surfaces exposed to temperatures from -60°C to + 600°C during operation. Heat-resistant enamel has excellent resistance to aggressive environments: petroleum products, salt solutions, mineral oils.
Enamel can be applied at negative temperatures down to -30°C.
Facade enamel KO-174- designed for protective and decorative painting of facades of buildings and structures (concrete, asbestos-cement, brick, plastered surfaces), as well as for anti-corrosion protection of metal surfaces operated in atmospheric conditions, including high humidity. It is applied at temperatures from -30°С to +40°С.
Organosilicate composition OS-12-03- enamel for the protection of metal structures from atmospheric corrosion, as well as corrosion in gaseous media with a slightly aggressive degree of impact. Temperature regime application from -30°С to +40°С.
Primer-enamel ХВ-0278- chemically resistant primer-enamel for painting metal surfaces with residues of scale and dense rust. Application temperature from -10°C to +25°C.
Primer-enamel “Spetscor”” - coating based on primer-enamel is resistant to ultraviolet rays, hydrophobic, has good vapor and air permeability, moisture resistance, frost resistance down to -60°C.
Apply to the surface at an ambient temperature of at least minus 20°C
Enamel HV-124- for painting primed metal surfaces, as well as wooden surfaces used in atmospheric conditions. Enamel is applied at temperatures from -10° to +35°C.
Enamel ХВ-785- for protection in a complex multi-layer coating of pre-primed surfaces of equipment, metal structures, as well as concrete and reinforced concrete building structures, operated indoors, from the impact of aggressive gases, acids, solutions of salts and alkalis at a temperature not exceeding 60 ° C. Enamel is applied at temperatures from -10° to +35°C.
Let's understand the terms
For most carpenters, thinner and thinner seem to be synonymous, but these two types of liquids with different properties should not be confused. Solvents dissolve other substances, and thinners only reduce their viscosity, facilitating the application process. For example, wax dissolves in white spirit, so white spirit is the solvent for wax. However, white spirit is not able to dissolve varnish resins. It simply fills the gaps between the lacquer molecules by pushing them apart and reduces the viscosity of the composition, which becomes more fluid and easy to apply with a brush. Therefore, for alkyd and oil varnish, white spirit is a thinner.
On cans with any compositions, the optimal time for drying the composition (varnishes, paints, etc.) is indicated, which corresponds to the conditions that are available only for a short period of time, i.e. - temperature 20°C and above, air humidity less than 70%.
But what about the rest of the masters, living, for example, in a hot or cold or humid climate? Will the finish dry in this case, will it wrinkle?
Brief information about the drying of coatings
Finishing compositions according to the type of drying are divided into three groups; the more complex the processes that occur during drying, the more difficult it is to achieve good result in non-ideal conditions. We describe these types starting with the simple ones.
drying outformulations, such as shellac or nitro lacquer, simply dry out and, when the solvent evaporates, form a hard film on the surface of the wood. Compounds of this type are the least sensitive to adverse conditions application and drying.
Reactive compounds such as alkyd-oil varnish, dry in two stages. First, the solvent volatilizes and the composition becomes sticky (the so-called tack-dry phase). Then comes chemical reaction(polymerization) of molecules of resinous substances with oxygen, causing the formation of a surface film. When the temperature drops, the reaction slows down, and drying can take a very long time.
coalescingformulations on a wave basis dry in three stages. First of all, the solvent (ox) dries quickly, then organic diluents evaporate a little more slowly, due to which the droplets of the composition exist in the form of a dispersion. And, finally, these droplets, left without water and diluents, merge with each other and solidify (coalesce), forming a film.
Due to the different ratios of thinners and solvents in different formulations, their evaporation rate varies, and the drying time is largely dependent on the temperature and humidity of the surrounding air. As can be seen from the Sirin table, the drying time of the compositions for water based increases significantly with decreasing temperature, so you should follow the manufacturer's instructions as closely as possible.
It must be remembered that due to differences in the components of the compositions, these instructions may vary significantly and different manufacturers, and even from the same manufacturer (e.g. brush applied polyurethane and spray applied polyurethane).
A common property for all three groups of formulations is that the solvent or diluent must be completely evaporated so that the formulation can dry completely.
And this happens most successfully in heat and low relative humidity.
Cold air? Make it move
One way to speed up the drying of a coating in a cold shop is to create an airflow. In hot laziness streams warm air move up on their own, and cooler air will knead them near the surface of the product. But in cold weather, the air is almost stationary, and drying is slowed down, since there is almost no change of air near the surface.
By creating even a small amount of air flow, you can ensure that the air is regularly replaced near the surface, which will carry more diluent or solvent vapors. At the same time, it will constantly blow the surface with oxygen, which is necessary for chemical polymerization in reactive formulations. Create a steady air flow in the workshop, but do not point the fans directly at the product, as shown in the figure.
Don't complain about the weather, do something
Depending on the weather, you can choose a different finishing method or change the properties of the finishing composition. For example, in hot weather, you can dilute the composition with an appropriate thinner or thinner to increase the drying time and avoid brush marks. However, this will require more coats of coating to achieve the desired film thickness and gloss level. In addition, the longer the coating dries, the more dust will settle on its wet and sticky surface.
Alya significantly speed up the finishing process in the cold season (for example, you are in a hurry to finish the work of cash New Year's gifts that need to be completely dried, packed and put on the floor of the Christmas tree in one or two days) it is better to immediately choose others finishing compositions. Shellac, nitrolac or lacquer dries at a low temperature faster than other products. Tel" is also best done when it is not too cold, not too hot and not too humid. And, before you dip your brush into a can or fill your spray gun, make sure the wood, finish, and ambient air are at the same temperature.
MASTER'S ADVICE
How to work with finishing compounds and store them all year round
- If your workshop is not heated, move all cans of finishing compounds (especially water-based) to a warm room in the fall, and return them to the workshop in the spring.
- Do not store cans of finishes and adhesives in a cold concrete floor in the basement.
- To heat the finishing composition to room temperature, put the jar in hot water(photo below) or place it next to a heating radiator for a few minutes. Do not heat the compound above the temperature of the wood to which it is to be applied. Do not use open flame for heating.
- After applying the composition, maintain a stable temperature in the room until complete drying coatings.
- If an air heating system is installed in the workshop, in order to save money, you should not turn on the circulation of warm air inside the room. It is necessary to ensure the flow fresh air from the street, warming it up to room temperature.
- Use a dehumidifier if the workshop is located in a damp basement.
- Do not apply the next coat if the previous one is not completely dry.
- Select best time for finishing. As a rule, the temperature and humidity are lower in the morning hours. Never try to speed up drying by exposing the product to a place lit by the sun.
Depending on whether it is hot or cold, the drying time varies.
Above: We ran a series of tests on a cold autumn day. First applied to scraps oak boards various finishing compounds in a warm workshop and then in a cold garage. In the end, all the samples dried out, but when the temperature was lowered, drying continued much longer. For example, for drying polyurethane on oil based in a cold garage at 5°C it took three and a half times longer than in a warm workshop at 21°C. The fastest drying coatings in both cases were shellac and nitrolac in an aerosol can.
For the test on the subject “how long it dries” were used:
Shellac | Nitrolac | Water based polyurethane | Oil varnish | Water based polyurethane | Nitrolac | Oil based polyurethane | |
varnish | spray can |
Any work in the cold is not comfortable, and if possible, it is better to postpone metal painting and carry it out in the warm season. What to do if the winter cold has already come, but all the planned work has not been completed on time during the warm period, and metal constructions outdoors are not painted?
There is an opinion that it is impossible to paint on the street in winter, or it will not work, however, it is erroneous and irrelevant. To date, developed many paint materials which can be used in any weather.
For painting metal surfaces in winter it is possible. For their application, the temperature range from -20 to +35°C is permissible. At the same time, on the quality of coverage and ease of implementation painting work even the presence of moisture on the metal surface does not affect.
If it is not possible to postpone painting the metal until warmer weather, some factors must be taken into account.
First of all, they should not contain in their composition ingredients that freeze at a temperature not lowered to -20 ° C.
It is necessary to completely exclude the use of alkyd and other coatings that increase viscosity at low temperatures.
To remove the frost covering the metal, it is necessary to treat the metal surface with the fire of a gasoline or gas burner. It is not recommended to use brushes and scrapers, because after their use the surface is not completely cleaned.
Before applying the primer, it is important to degrease the surface with acetone or isopropanol.
When carrying out painting work in winter, a special frost-resistant primer is used to prime the metal surface, and it is necessary to select the composition for this type of metal.
Priming provides corrosion protection and improves the adhesion of the finish coat.
If necessary, using a special brush, before starting work, the surface is thoroughly cleaned of loose rust and dirt that create irregularities.
The consumption of anticorrosive paints and varnishes for painting metal surfaces in winter is the same as in warm weather. All materials intended for application at low temperatures are fast drying. Finished coating does not react to precipitation within an hour after application. So, at air humidity of 80-95% and temperature of -15°C, the time of complete drying will be 2-3 hours.
The service life of the coating applied at low temperatures is up to 10 years, subject to painting technologies.
Should I paint the fence in winter?
What to do if the outside temperature is below 0°C and you need to paint a metal fence.
When the temperature changes, the metal does not change its structure, does not absorb water. At elevated temperatures, the leaf fence may stretch a little, and when cooled, it returns to its shape. , intended for painting metal, adapting after application, form an elastic film on the surface.
For painting metal fences in winter, enamels are used that are designed to work at low temperatures. They have the necessary properties alkyd paints based on solvents that do not change consistency at low temperatures.
Paints for metal can also be used to paint wooden surfaces.
Surface before painting metal fence dried and degreased with special means.
For painting, not a cold, but a warm coloring composition with a temperature above 0 ° C is used.
If when coloring large structures it takes a lot of time, then the paint container is placed in warm water to maintain the desired consistency of the composition.
Special enamels designed for painting metal in winter dry from 1 to 3 hours, and ordinary ones - from 3 to 7 days.
Effective enamel, intended for use in winter, do not freeze in frost, are suitable as for metal and for wood, combine anti-corrosion, anti-fungal and fire-fighting properties, even in extreme weather conditions form an elastic coating layer, dry quickly compared to conventional coloring compounds.
Carry out painting of a metal fence and other metal products possible in winter. The main thing is to choose the right one to properly prepare the surface. On each package of the product there is always information about the method of application.
