How to paint brass black. Bronze painting: the choice of paint and the technology of its application. Coloring and low temperatures

Without paint, many metal surfaces can be painted if they are coated (chemically or electrochemically) with a thin layer of colored oxides or salts firmly adhered to the surface. The last condition is not so easy to fulfill. For example, iron in humid air quickly (and without our help) becomes covered with a reddish-brown coating of oxidation products, simply put, with rust, but this method of painting is no good, because the rust barely sticks and gets dirty when touched.

Here we will give several recipes for coloring non-ferrous metals. Only some of them are suitable for a home experiment, the rest require chemicals that you can’t buy either in a pharmacy or in a photo store. However, we hope you have already signed up for a chemistry circle.

Copper and brass tarnish rather quickly in air. But they will retain their shine if they are chemically dyed. The preparation of the parts will take some time, because the surface must be completely clean, without traces of dirt and grease. Carefully wipe the polished part with a cloth soaked in gasoline, and then with wet chalk or tooth powder. After washing the item in running water, hang it on a harsh thread or fishing line and do not touch it with your hands anymore so as not to leave grease stains (even if the skin looks completely dry, there is still at least a little grease on it). Dip the part in a dilute solution of nitric acid (no more than 5-10 ml per 100 ml of water) and rinse again, preferably with hot water. Preparation completed.

What happens next depends on what color you decide to paint the copper. If it is black, then hold the part for five minutes in a solution in which 0.9 g of sodium hydroxide and 0.3 g of ammonium persulfate (NH 4) 2 SO 4 per 100 ml of water (it is used in photography). The temperature of the solution is 90-100°C.

In a solution of potassium chloride, nickel sulfate NiSO 4 and copper sulfate CuSO 4 (4.5, 2 and 10.5 g per 100 ml of water, respectively), at the same temperature, copper and brass will acquire a pleasant chocolate hue. Brass will become azure after a short exposure to a mixture consisting of 3 g of lead acetate (lead lotion can be used), 6 g of sodium thiosulfate (hyposulfite), 5 g of acetic acid and 100 ml of water. The temperature of this solution is about 80°C.

Copper can also be green. To do this, it must be lowered into such a solution: for 100 ml of water - 20 g of copper nitrate Сu (NO 3) 2, 30 g of ammonia and 40 g of ammonium chloride (ammonia) and sodium acetate; a solution of the latter substance is easy to obtain from soda and vinegar. Please handle copper nitrate with care, avoiding contact with the face and especially the mouth.

With the exception of the blackening experience, we do not state reaction times anywhere. Choose it yourself by experience, bearing in mind that the longer the processing time, the more intense the color.

The next metal that lends itself to chemical coloring is zinc. It is used infrequently, but everyone is familiar with galvanized objects - buckets, basins, troughs. The object of the experiment can be any old, unusable galvanized object. Wash its surface with a solution of soda or wipe it with a cloth soaked in gasoline, wash with hot water and soap and rinse several times. On a galvanized surface, we will apply mixtures of substances that will react with zinc; giving colored compounds. Here are the color recipes.

Black: 2 parts copper nitrate, 3 parts copper oxide, 8 parts hydrochloric acid and 64 parts water; after the appearance of color, rinse the surface with water and dry.

Green: 10 parts of copper sulfate and tartaric acid, 12 parts of water and 24 parts of sodium hydroxide solution in water (1:15); as soon as the color appears, immediately rinse the surface with water, otherwise there will be a brown tint.

Blue: for 100 ml of water - 6 g of any nickel salt and the same amount of ammonium chloride,

Golden: mix a solution of 1 part tartaric acid, 2 parts soda and 1 part water with pure clay; rub the surface with the mixture, and when it dries, rinse with water.

Brown-bronze: a mixture of 1 part verdigris and 5 parts acetic acid; rub the surface with the mixture, rinse with water and dry.

Copper: since zinc is more active than copper, it means that it is enough to moisten it with a solution of copper salt, for example, copper sulfate.

By the way, with such paints you can draw a picture on a zinc surface.

Let's move on from zinc to aluminum. It is somewhat more difficult to color it: there are more operations, and you cannot do without electric current. Aluminum oxide and salts are nondescript, so a different coloring method is needed. He is known for: anodizing. Its essence is that a current is passed through an aluminum part immersed in an electrolyte; in this case, an oxide film with a thickness of less than 0.1 mm is formed on the surface. Since the aluminum parts in the electroplating bath serve as the anode, the process is called anodizing. The oxide film is permeated with microscopic branched pores, in which dyes are well retained. It is possible to paint the anodized surface with organic dyes, including natural ones, but it is better with inorganic substances. Usually, the part is treated alternately in two dye solutions, and the brightly colored reaction products remain in the pores.

Polish the aluminum part, degrease it with gasoline or acetone, rinse it in hot water and hang it on a wire. Dip the part for two to three minutes in a 5% sodium hydroxide solution, rinse again and immerse in a weak solution of nitric acid (20-30 ml of acid per 100 ml of water). Of course, it is no longer possible to touch the part, and if it is inconvenient to work with the suspension, help yourself with tweezers.

Rinse the parts again in hot and cold water and hang on a wire in a glass. You can put a stick or pencil on the edges of the glass and wrap the wire around it once or twice, picking up such a height that the part is a few centimeters above the bottom. Connect the workpiece to the positive pole of the current source. Cathodes - steel plates - hang in the same way. Batteries can serve as a current source, but they will “sit down” very quickly; a battery or transformer with a rectifier is preferable.

Pour a solution of sulfuric acid into the glass with the part (20 ml of acid per 100 ml of water; be careful!). Include a key or switch and a rheostat in the circuit to regulate the current. To measure it, you need a milliammeter, but a tester that many radio amateurs have is also suitable. Close the circuit and set the current at the rate of 20-25 mA per 1 cm 2 of the surface. The part will immediately be covered with gas bubbles - this is oxygen released, which oxidizes aluminum. At room temperature, the process takes about an hour.

Rinse the anodized part in running water and start painting. Immerse the part alternately in two coloring solutions, holding in each for 5-10 minutes and rinsing each time in running water. Rinse and dry the painted parts again.

Here are the compositions of coloring solutions and their possible concentration (in grams per 100 ml of water):

blue or blue color - potassium ferrocyanide (1-5) and iron (III) chloride (1-10);
brown - potassium ferrocyanide (1-5) and copper sulfate (1-10);
black-cobalt acetate (5-10) and potassium permanganate (1.5-2.5);
yellow-potassium bichromate (5-10) and lead acetate (10-20);
golden yellow - sodium hyposulfite (1-5) and potassium permanganate (1-5);
white-lead acetate (1-5) and sodium sulfate (1-5);
orange-potassium dichromate (0.5-1) and silver nitrate (5-10).

O. Olgin. "Experiments without explosions"
M., "Chemistry", 1986

Metal products are subject to the influence of the external environment and especially humidity. You can protect the metal with the help of special anti-corrosion coatings (for example, covering the surface with zinc), as well as painting. The paint performs not only the role of a protector against corrosion, but also gives the surface a more aesthetic appearance.

Decorative painting of metal allows you to imitate a wide variety of effects. For example, you can decorate the surface in bronze, silver, or give the metal an aged noble look. How to choose a paint and varnish material, prepare the base and apply paint to it, will be discussed below.

Surface preparation

First of all, you need to evaluate the strength of the old coating. Masking tape will help with this: we make cuts on the old paint and glue the tape on these places. Then, with a sharp movement, tear off the tape. If a significant amount of paint separates after the tape, the surface is not strong enough. If the layer is strong, then it is not necessary to remove it, it is only necessary to clean the metal from dirt, traces of rust and dust.

Note! If we are talking about heating batteries, the old paint must be removed, because. in this case, each additional layer reduces the heat output.

Surface cleaning (metal, walls, etc.) can be carried out in one of three ways:

mechanical (using abrasives or tools);
chemical (using alkaline compounds or active solvents);
thermal (using a hot air gun or an oxy-acetylene torch).

Padding

Surface treatment with a primer is necessary to create a reliable bond between metal and paint. Primers are produced on the basis of synthetic or natural film-forming substances (organic resins, drying oils, etc.).

An important property of primers is to reduce the likelihood of corrosion. Depending on the type of primer composition, the mechanisms for providing anti-corrosion protection differ.

There are several types of primers according to the nature of anti-corrosion properties:

Insulating. Such primers do not allow moisture to get on the protected metal.
Passivating. The action of passivating compositions is based on a decrease in the electrochemical activity of the material.
Protective. Such primers contain highly dispersed metal powders, in which the electrode potential is lower than that of the protected metal. This provides protection against corrosion.
Phosphating. The phosphate coating protects the metal from corrosion.
inhibitory. An inhibitor is a substance that slows down the rate of chemical reactions. Since rust formation is the result of a chemical reaction, inhibitory primers reduce the rate of development of corrosion processes.
Rust converters. Rust converters transform iron oxide into an insoluble compound.

The primer composition is applied with a brush, roller, swab or spray gun. The primer layer should not be too thick - thinner than subsequent coats of paint. The optimal thickness of the primer layer is up to 0.1 mm.

If the primed surface is matte, it must be carefully cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper. This will improve the quality of adhesion with the paintwork material.

Puttying is necessary to eliminate defects, such as cracks, as well as to level the surface. A putty composition is a mixture that includes a filler (chalk), a plasticizer, a binder, and special additives.

Application of various putties

Putty mixes are sold in one of two states - dry (diluted in water) and ready-to-use (diluted in a solvent). Putty is applied and spread over the surface with a spatula.

The choice of paint for metal

For painting metal surfaces, solvent-based paints and varnishes are most often used. Such solutions are a mixture of synthetic resins of alkyd origin and organic solvents. As the latter, white spirit or styrene is most often used.

After drying, alkyd compositions appear thick, durable, transparent, almost colorless films. Such films are resistant to all kinds of chemicals, as well as to moisture. Due to the latest quality, alkyds are widely used not only indoors, but also outside buildings.

However, when choosing a composition, attention should be paid to the recommended purpose of the paint. For example, for coloring batteries, special compositions are produced that are distinguished by high thermal conductivity and at the same time do not reduce the heat transfer of equipment.

For a long time, coloring was not applied to forged metal. There was a generally accepted opinion that the paint eliminates the advantage of handwork, hides the natural texture of the material.

However, not so long ago, paints and varnishes for forged products appeared, which allow you to artificially age the material, create the appearance of a patina, or achieve other visual effects. Also, blacksmith's paints protect the metal from corrosive processes.

The main drawback is their cost. Like the creation of forged products, specialized paints cannot be called cheap.

Metal coloring

You can apply the paint with a brush, roller or spray gun. The number of necessary layers during painting is set by the manufacturer and depends on the hiding power of the paint. Hiding power is the ability of a paintwork material to hide the color of the treated surface. The hiding power is inversely proportional to the transparency of the paintwork material, that is, the more transparent the paint, the more it will be needed.

Note! Hiding power is indicated on the packaging with paint and is determined in terms of material consumption per square meter.

Difficulties may arise when calculating the required amount of paintwork material. Manufacturing companies provide information on consumption per square meter. When it comes to painting flat surfaces, it is not difficult to calculate the consumption. However, one often has to deal with uneven surfaces - gratings, fences, curly details, etc. In such cases, the calculations will have to proceed from your own experience or the advice of the seller.

Surface decoration in bronze has been used for a long time. However, until recently, such paints were made on the basis of organic matter. Thus, the scope of use of such paints and varnishes was significantly narrowed due to the unpleasant odor characteristic of organic solvents. In addition, such surfaces are not resistant to temperature extremes.

To date, the most popular paints based on water and acrylic. Such compounds are distinguished by safety, ease of use, resistance to high and low temperatures, as well as anti-corrosion resistance.

There are two ways to decorate a bronze surface. Below are two step by step instructions.

The first option is monochromatic coloring:

We remove dirt and traces of rust from the surface. We are degreasing.
We prime the surface. This will improve the adhesive qualities of the materials and, in addition, will create a layer of polymer that will protect the surface from corrosion.
When the primer dries, apply 2-3 coats. Moreover, each layer can be applied only after the previous one has dried.

The second option is aged bronze:

We carry out preparatory activities in the same way as described in the first case. Then we primed the metal and painted it bronze.
The recesses on the surface are treated with a patina. It can be translucent - this will allow you to control the level of dimming.
When the paint dries, take a dry brush and glaze. To do this, apply light paint to the corners and ledges in such a way as to create a scuffed effect.
After the layer has dried, apply a transparent varnish to the metal.

You can give the metal an aged look in another way, using a craquelure primer and paint.

Instruction:

We clean the metal from dirt, traces of rust and grease.
We cover the cleaned and dry surface with paintwork material. We use a brush for coloring, since an uneven coating in this case is only beneficial.
When the paint is completely dry, apply a craquelure primer. This composition can be purchased at a hardware store. After drying, a transparent polymer film will appear on the surface.
We create the main craquelure coating. The result of the work is aged metal with traces of rust. Moreover, small cracks - craquelures - will appear on the surface.

Coloring and low temperatures

Recommends painting surfaces at positive temperatures. It is believed that the minimum allowable temperature is 5 degrees above zero. However, there are situations when you need to paint the surface urgently, despite the thermometer. And in this case, high-quality staining is possible if you follow a number of recommendations, which will be discussed below:

We clean the surface from ice, dust, dirt, rust and condensation. Moreover, standard cleaning procedures - mechanically - in this case will not be enough. Even if there is very little condensation left, all further efforts will not allow you to create a quality coating. To dry the surface well, use a burner (on gas or gasoline) or a heat gun.
At low temperatures, the paint will dry 2-3 times longer. Based on this, it is necessary to protect the painted surface from the effects of the external environment. For this, a plastic film and a heat gun are suitable.

Equally important for painting at low temperatures is to choose the right paint. Jelly-like alkyd enamels are considered the best option. Such compositions are characterized by high adhesive qualities.

When painting metal products, two goals are pursued: protection against the formation of corrosive areas and giving the metal an aesthetic appearance. Introducing the last task, sometimes it is necessary to cover the surface in 2-3 layers. But not always the end result can be just painting. Sometimes it is necessary to give metal products original decorative effects, for example, the look of an aged object. For this, special technologies are used. Let's try to figure out how to paint antique metal and what is required for this.

The effect of aged metal can be achieved by applying the main method - aging through the implementation of patina and the formation of scuffs. Patina is applied with special paints, but it is for metal that metallized acrylic-based compositions are more often used. In stores today, a wide range of such paints is presented, in addition to the decorative function, they also perform a protective task.

Acrylic paints for aged metal are available to choose from, namely for:

brass;
bronze;
copper;
gold.

Thanks to modern technologies, an aged effect can be given not only to metal surfaces. Often such painting is performed on plastic, wood and plaster products.

The aging process is completed by applying a final protective layer. For this, they often use:

acrylic-based varnish, which has a high degree of gloss;
very durable polyurethane-based varnish with a gloss degree of up to 50%;
matt effect polyurethane varnish.

How to age metal yourself?

The choice of the method of creating an interior style, which implies the presence of traces of antiquity in the design, is quite wide. For connoisseurs of this style, it is not always affordable to buy real old items. The way out of this situation is to imitate ancient metals. How to paint antique metal with your own hands? Coloring is carried out in stages:

Surface preparation for painting. We get rid of dirt, rust and traces of grease by grinding and solvent treatment.
Metal priming. In this way, we achieve the formation of roughness on the surface for better adhesion of the paint. We choose a special primer for metal.
Application of selected metallic paint. Experts advise to carry out the process with a regular brush, so aging is achieved in the best way.
Aging stage. When the paint dries, cover the surface with a special craquelure varnish. It is after this step that the metal object is covered with cracks that create the effect of an old product.

Important! If non-metal surfaces are being treated, then it is necessary to responsibly approach the choice of primer composition to achieve reliable adhesion with metallic paints.

On the video: a master class on applying patina to forged metal.

Bronze painting

In the old days, many items were made of bronze. Therefore, painting products in bronze will help to decorate the interior of the house in the old style. There are several technologies for coating metal under bronze. Consider the simplest options.

Give a monochromatic effect

You can perform a single-color coating of metal with bronze as follows:

First of all, we clean the old surface from dirt and rust. To do this, it is necessary to clean it with sandpaper, and then degrease it.
To increase the adhesion of the dye to the surface, we perform the priming process for metal. In addition to adhesion, the primer will help to additionally protect the product from corrosion.
At the final stage, we proceed to staining with bronze paint. It is necessary to apply 2-3 layers evenly. But each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried.

Achieving antique bronze effect

Antique decorative painting with bronze effect is suitable for lovers of rare things. To do this, follow these steps:

The preliminary preparation of the old surface is carried out according to the same rules as in the previous case. Also, do not forget to cover the product with a primer.
After priming, one layer of bronze paint is applied to the surface. It is desirable that the composition be applied evenly, but for the effect of antiquity it is better to use a brush.
After drying, the bronze painted surface is covered with patina (darker paint). It is applied to the recesses. Experts advise using a translucent patina. This allows you to adjust the shade of the bronze finish.
The next stage is glazing, that is, processing with a brush, which is barely moistened with light paint. The process is carried out on all protruding edges and corners. This aging method allows you to give the product the effect of wear, which usually appears on the metal over the years.
Next, we wait some time, allowing the applied materials to dry completely, and at the end we cover the product with a transparent varnish.

Antique brass finish

Textured metallized compositions can transform the product, giving it an imitation of brass. The processing technology is almost the same as those provided above. The surface is preliminarily cleaned, polished and degreased. For aging, the technique of decorative painting under brass is used.

The application process is carried out as follows:

Before applying decorative paint, the old coating is removed from the product. To do this, you can use a metal brush or sandpaper.
The key to the strength and reliability of staining is the primer. Use a compound specifically designed for metal.
Brass paint is applied to the surface in one layer. You can age the resulting coating by painting with craquelure. Burnt umber, which is applied very carefully with a dry cloth, will help enhance the effect. If in the course of work surpluses were formed, then they must be removed before the substance dries.
Finally, the surface of the painted and aged part is coated with an acrylic-based glossy varnish.

As you can see, designer antiquity is achieved in simple ways. When doing do-it-yourself work, paints help to get the desired result, which create the necessary effect of a bronze, brass, copper surface.

Paint Acrylic Brass - protective, decorative paint with metallic effect of brass. Resistant to UV and weathering, oils and gasoline. Possesses good adhesion and the increased color stability. Withstands temperatures up to 80°C. It is used on metal, plastics, wood and glass. Ideal for decorative purposes on metal structures, for painting gates, forgings, for protecting and updating the appearance of steel pipes, etc.

MODE OF APPLICATION. The surface to be painted must be dry and clean, free of rust and grease. For highly absorbent surfaces it is recommended to apply a sealing layer (e.g. emulsion paint). Shake thoroughly for 2 minutes. Spray from a distance of 25-30cm with side to side movements. Operating temperature 18-25°C. The coating will be dry from dust in 10 minutes. Full curing after 4-6 hours. Enough to cover approximately 3 m2.

ATTENTION. Pressure bottle. Protect from sunlight and do not heat above 50°C. Empty cans and waste must be properly disposed of. Do not pierce or burn, even after use. Do not spray on hot objects or flames. Keep away from sources of ignition. Do not smoke. Work in a well ventilated area. Do not breathe vapours. In case of contact with eyes, rinse with clean water. Do not allow to enter sewers and ground water. Keep away from children.

Manufactured by Eckart GmbH, Germany. Volume 400ml

Additional option

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We offer painting with metallic paints:

Under brass;
Bronze;
Under copper;
Under gold;
Aged metal;

One of the services of our workshop is the painting of various products with imitation of natural metals with the effect of patina and aging. The technology allows applying metallic paint on almost all types of surfaces: metal, plastic, wood, gypsum.

brass paint samples

When choosing the required painting option, you can be guided by the samples presented at our production. It is also possible to select paint according to the customer's sample.

The quality of the finish coating is provided by varnish:

acrylic car varnish with a high degree of gloss;
high-strength polyurethane gloss varnish;
matt polyurethane lacquer with gloss degree from 5 to 50%

To create the effect of aging, we use a patina on solvents. The patina is applied on top of the main layer of paint and with the help of various abrasive sponges, the effect of grinding in various directions is created.

Painting of the heated towel rail "brass-like".

chrome surface painting brass effect towel warmer brass coating

Brass painted radiator.

bimetallic radiator
brass radiator paint
finishing layer - glossy varnish

Below in the photo is the painting of accessories for the bathroom “bronze-like” with a patina effect. Glossy lacquer finish.

painting in bronze color finishing layer - acrylic varnish antique bronze finish

The chrome plating is removed before painting.

refinishing chrome to bronze soil application bronze fittings

Antique bronze finish on chromed handles.

bronze door handles aged bronze handles final lacquer finish

Painting installations, drain buttons.
The photo shows samples of painting with the effect of "Antique Brass" under glossy and matt lacquer.

brass flush buttons brass buttons paint
repainting the button in brass (glossy lacquer)

Grohe button painted brass

button GEBERIT before painting

button painting in brass (matte lacquer)

Painting of a shower cabin "under antique brass".
Initially, the cabin parts were chrome-plated, anodized aluminum profiles.

painting aluminum profiles
details after painting
brass shower enclosure

Painting of commercial equipment in brass color.

painting booth work
old brass finish
commercial equipment after painting

Bronze painted sink.
An excellent example of the durability and strength of a polyurethane clearcoat is the painting of mechanically stressed items such as a kitchen sink. The sink is constantly subjected to mechanical stress. The varnish applied to the surface in three layers and fully polymerized (up to 10 days after painting) perfectly withstands all loads.

washing before painting soil application bronze sink painting

Repainting of decorative caps on the lantern under aged bronze.
To protect outdoor lighting fixtures, custom-made decorative caps were made for our customer. Products were originally white. Futile attempts at spray painting led to damage to the product. We had to sand the product, apply an insulating primer to prevent undermining the first layers. Next, the product was painted in old bronze and covered with 2 layers of matte polyurethane varnish.

item before painting painting – antique bronze finishing layer - matte varnish

Paint "under copper"
The metal cases of lamps for the restaurant were painted.

metal lamp copper paint
lamp painted in copper color

Painting of details of the rotary stand under "antique brass".
By order of the Petersburg Doors company, elements of commercial equipment were painted under antique brass. The details of the turntable were previously cleaned and primed. Painted using technology with decorative polishing. Acrylic car varnish has an excellent degree of gloss and is quite stable.

products in the spray booth brass finish painting glossy lacquer finish

To change the texture and give interior items a noble look, special paints are increasingly being used to get the effect of a “metal” surface.

Metallized paints come in a wide range of colors and can imitate the shade of almost any metal. The finished surface acquires the color of brass, bronze, copper or gold, and additional processing with craquelure varnish gives household items a unique antique look.

Advantages of metallic paints:

Large selection of shades. You can get the effect of bronze, brass, copper or other metal.
Used for external and internal works, wall decoration. Does not contain harmful substances and toxins.
They are durable and do not fade over time.
Painting products in wet areas.

Such textured paints are used to decorate the interior and decorate various household items, including furniture, picture frames, candlesticks, etc. Interesting solutions can be obtained if you finish “bronze” or “copper” plumbing fixtures, a mirror frame or other individual interior elements.

Metallic paint can cover a fireplace, stucco molding or part of the wall, while the painted surface will emphasize both the classic style and perfectly complement the design in retro style or cutting-edge hi-tech.

Application technology

If metallized paint is applied to interior items or furniture, then it is necessary to remove the old coating in advance. Before finishing, the surface should be cleaned of possible contaminants and a primer applied. The key to the durability of painted products is, first of all, the use of the right, high-quality primers for various surfaces: for Plast Prime plastic and for Acid 8 metal.

The selected composition is applied in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, usually one layer is enough to obtain the desired effect. A metal-effect design element can be left shiny or given an antique look with craquelure. Characteristic cracks that appear during the drying of such a varnish will artificially age the treated surface.

The resulting effect can be emphasized with burnt umber, which is carefully applied to a dry cloth. The excess should be removed until the composition is completely dry, and if desired, cover the finish “under the metal” with a layer of varnish.