Brick interior wall. Detailed instructions and useful tips for laying brick partitions. Design requirements

There are several varieties of bricks, but for interior walls, as a rule, ordinary building solid bricks are used, since they have good sound insulation. If you put a half-brick partition and plaster it, you can be sure that such a wall will “absorb” the average volume of the TV and household conversations.

Hollow brick is also not used because it can collapse if holes are drilled in the finished wall for communications. Also, it is not advised to use it in rooms with high humidity (kitchens, bathrooms). Nevertheless, walls from it are still sometimes laid.

Pros of brick:

moisture resistance: suitable for any premises,
strength and durability of the entire structure,
beautiful view.

Designers, and after them the residents of apartments and houses, recently appreciated the last property. have become a highlight of interiors, especially those made in and in the loft style.

The disadvantage of a brick is its heavy weight, which puts a load on floors and load-bearing walls in an apartment building. Brick can be laid only if the floor is concrete or stone, and then it is not worth building walls from 5 m long.

Another strict condition is that a brick partition cannot be made on a finished floor: any coating will collapse, and the wall will sag.

Preparing to build a brick wall

Structural reinforcement

It should be understood in advance that the process will take more than one day. The mortar needs time to gain strength, and "raw" partitions are unstable, especially if the brick is laid on edge. Therefore, about 1 m in height can be displayed per day.

Structure fastening options

If the house is still under construction, and you have already designed a wall in a particular place, for it from the adjacent wall you need to release reinforcing tapes and halves of ordinary bricks over the entire height. The gap between them is small - somewhere in one brick.

If you decide to build a partition after the construction of the house, you can “attach” a new wall to the carrier in another way. For example, use a perforated metal strip. In shape, this is a corner, one side of which is fastened with dowels to the load-bearing wall, and the other is driven between rows of new masonry.

The latter, by the way, needs to be reinforced every five or six rows - a metal mesh about 4 mm thick or long metal rods with a diameter of 6–8 mm should be laid horizontally.

It is possible to add stability to the partition if such reinforcing elements are also inserted vertically so that they intersect with a horizontally laid mesh or rods. The approximate size of the "cells" is 50 cm.

Floor preparation

Here you will need a mini-foundation so that the ceiling does not crack. Ideally, the base for the interior walls is needed at the same time. But, if the decision to redevelop came after the construction of the building box, it is possible to pour the foundation under the future wall at this stage.

The floor should be at least filled with sand and rammed by this time.

For details on the process of creating a strip foundation, see the video instructions.

masonry brick wall

In the place where the foundation lies, it is produced after the screed has dried, having previously marked the boundaries of the partitions on the floor and walls.

First, the so-called “zero level” is made - a layer of mortar is poured onto the floor to eliminate possible irregularities. The solution can be prepared with your own hands: from cement and sand, cement and lime, cement and clay. And you can buy a ready-made mixture, which you only need to dilute with water.

Bricks are laid, carefully checking their location with the help of a level, rule and suspension. If the partition passes through the entire room, the first brick is placed at an angle of 90 ° C to one wall, and the second in the same way to the opposite. On a stretched cord, they monitor how even the line turns out.

Each next row is laid so that the middle of the upper brick lies on the vertical seam of the lower one. You can align the masonry, focusing on the same cord.

If the new row has led a little, this can be corrected until the masonry has “grabbed”: it is enough to carefully tap on it with a pick or hammer, fitting the bricks to each other.

Under the ceiling, there is usually a gap of several centimeters. It is filled with pieces of brick mixed with mortar, or with tow soaked in plaster.
The finished wall can be plastered, puttied, and or painted.

And you can leave it almost in its original form: cover it with paint or varnish without pre-finishing. But the final decor needs to be thought out in advance - and if it is decided not to cover the brick with anything, the masonry should be neat.

There are many varieties of brickwork, each of which differs in the specifics of the placement of products relative to each other. But the common thing for all is that they are built on a pre-prepared, solid foundation. It is worth noting that such work cannot be carried out in an apartment of a multi-storey building without special permission from the supervisory authorities, since this design has a significant weight.

But during the construction or redevelopment of a private house, laying brick walls is the most commonly used method of dividing the interior. Unlike the options for using drywall sheets, plywood and a number of other materials for these purposes, a brick partition, although it requires a lot of labor and financial investments, has undeniable advantages:

Good sound insulation;
fire safety;
moisture resistance;
the possibility of further finishing with any material;
strength.

From a practical point of view, the last point is the most significant, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to hang anything significant on a partition made of plasterboard (drywall). By the way, fixing weighty interior details (for example, hanging shelves or cabinets) even on a stronger base - blocks of cellular concrete, which are used in the construction of internal walls, is also quite problematic.

In practice, for the construction of partitions, a more “economical” masonry of brick walls, which is called “in ½” or “in ¼”, is usually used. Although the latter method is used less frequently, as a rule, when separating utility rooms (pantries, toilet rooms, etc.).

By the way, the installation of partitions (they are also called "re-walls") is much simpler than the installation of masonry in a "new building", since there are already ready-made landmarks - the floor and walls of the room. Consider the methodology for carrying out work according to the “half-brick” method.

Main steps

Training

The peculiarity is that in addition to the traditional materials for preparing the mortar, as well as the bricks themselves, it is also necessary to prepare metal plates or reinforcing bars. They will be needed to fasten the partition with adjacent surfaces (bearing or internal).

markup

Perhaps this is the main stage. The evenness of the partition and the quality of work depend on the correct conduct of all operations. First, the contour of the future masonry of a brick wall is drawn on the floor (2 parallel lines with an interval of the width of the brick). In those places where they rest against the walls of the room, vertical lines are marked - up to the ceiling.

Experienced craftsmen argue that it is better to spend more time on this and do everything more scrupulously, with high quality, than to redo and change something later. Then further work will go much faster.

First, the 1st row is laid along the entire horizontal marking. It is necessary to do this work especially carefully, observing strict symmetry with respect to the lines. It is on the evenness of the lower row of bricks that the geometry of the entire partition largely depends.

The rest of the technique is simple, but some recommendations are required.

Bricks are laid along the markings (their end parts are joined - “poke” edges).

The middle of the upper brick should be located above the seam of the bottom row. This will prevent the formation of a continuous vertical line from the mortar, which will degrade the strength of the rewall.

Except for the first, all other rows are laid out along a stretched string (nylon cord, thick fishing line). The main thing is that there is no "sagging". How to fix it? Several methods can be recommended.

Firstly, fix the ends of the string on adjacent walls. For example, pre-tie long nails or a piece of reinforcement on both sides and press down with the same bricks.

Secondly, along the vertical marking lines (which is up to the ceiling), put the rails, fixing them rigidly on adjacent surfaces. On the racks, for example, at a certain interval you can stuff small carnations, on which you can wind the cord.

Thirdly, make a template. These are the same slats on which high-quality planed boards are stuffed horizontally. It turns out a shield that will prevent the bricks from tilting in its direction.

The meaning is clear, so each master himself will figure out how it is easier and more convenient for him to make the appropriate horizontal landmark based on local conditions.

After laying bricks into the wall for about 3-4 rows, you need to check the verticality of the surface along its entire length. Control is carried out by a plumb or level.

Approximately every 5 rows, it is necessary to fasten the masonry to the surface adjacent to it. If a bar is used for fixing, then its segment is driven in, “embedded” and so on (depending on the material of the adjacent wall). If the fastening is made using a plate, then it is bent by the letter "G". Its long part is laid on top of the last brick in the row, and the short part is fixed on the adjoining wall with a dowel and a screw, with a hole for the “landing” pre-drilled.

If the partition provides for the installation of a window frame or a doorway, then it is advisable to use a bar as the upper lintel. But in order not to complicate further work for yourself, it is advisable to choose its thickness so that it is a multiple of 1-2 bricks. Then the order of laying the rows will not be violated. It is also necessary to provide wooden inserts on the sides of the openings to which the frame (box) will be attached.

To give greater stability to the entire structure, it is advisable to reinforce it with a bar (section up to 6 mm).

The solution used must be at least grade 10.

After laying the last row, there is a gap between it and the ceiling. Therefore, a mortar is smeared on the bricks, and then this opening is tightly sealed with a brick battle, after which its surface coating is performed.

If the external decoration of the partition wall with other material is not provided, then it is advisable to provide that the seams between the bricks are white. This can be achieved if white cement or a mixture of quicklime + slaked lime is used to prepare the mortar.

Prior to the installation of partitions, the following work must be completed:

- arrangement of external and internal walls;
- marking of partitions;
- Delivery to the workplace of the necessary materials, tools and fixtures.

The process of bricklaying partitions consists of the following operations: installation and rearrangement of the mooring line;

- cutting and teska of bricks (as needed);
- supply of bricks and their layout on partitions (scaffolds);
- shoveling, feeding, spreading and leveling the mortar on the wall (ceiling);
- laying bricks in the structure;
- checking the correctness of the laid out masonry.

Work on the construction of brick partitions must be carried out in accordance with the project. Brickwork of partitions is made of solid brick with a dressing of 1/2 brick along the length of the rows

When installing partitions, the bricklayer K 1 fixes and pulls the mooring cord.

Mason K 2 lays out the bricks first on the floor, (then on the laid out partition), close to one another, at a distance of three bricks from the beginning of the laying, leaving room for spreading the mortar. So he lays 6 bricks, after which he spreads the mortar. Before applying the solution to the partition, the bricklayer K 2 shovels it in a trough until a homogeneous mass is obtained. Then, with a shovel, he delivers the solution to the partition and, placing the shovel obliquely on the side face, spreads it in a bed about 10 cm wide, 2-2.5 cm thick and 75 cm long, see fig. 21.

Rice. 21.

After Mason K 1 has laid 3 bricks, Mason K 2 lays mortar under 3 more bricks.

Bricklayer K 4 is laying side by side. First, with a trowel, the mortar is leveled under 3 bricks; then, holding the brick with his left hand in an inclined position, he rakes up a part of the spread mortar with a bonder face and moves it to the previously laid brick, creating a complete vertical seam. After that, he aligns the brick flush with the surface of the partition, with light strokes of the trowel handle, settling the brick to the level of the mooring cord so that the gap between the cord and the brick does not exceed 1-2 mm. The mortar squeezed onto the front surface of the wall is cut with a trowel and thrown into the vertical seam of the masonry. Then he lays 3 more bricks in the same area.

Partitions 1/4 brick thick, for stability, are reinforced in horizontal seams with strip iron 1 mm thick or steel reinforcement bars with a diameter of not more than 6 mm at least every 5-6 rows. The thickness of the joints in which the reinforcement is located must exceed the diameter of the reinforcement by at least 4 mm. Partitions 1/2 brick thick are laid out with spoons.

Embedded parts are arranged at the interface between partitions and main walls, see fig. 22.

Rice. 22.

Embedded parts are attached on both sides of the partition in a checkerboard pattern

The mortar used for laying partitions must comply with the project. The laying of partitions, as well as walls, is carried out in tiers (three tiers per floor). The height of the tier is 1.2m. For a breakdown of brickwork by tiers, see fig. eighteen.

Having completed the brickwork on the 1st tier, the masons go to work on the 2nd tier. Works on the second and third tiers are carried out from scaffolds and are similar to those on the first tier.

When laying partitions, special attention is paid to the quality of filling the joints with mortar, the correct position of each brick, and the verticality of the masonry as a whole.

In the course of masonry, reinforcement and lintels are installed over the openings. The verticality and horizontality of the rows of masonry is periodically checked using a plumb line, rule and level. The masonry is leveled by light tapping with a pickaxe according to the rule applied on the outside of the partitions.

When breaking the masonry with a vertical chisel, a mesh (reinforcement) of longitudinal rods with a diameter of not more than 6 mm should be laid in the seams of the masonry of the chisel, from transverse rods - not more than 3 mm with a distance of up to 1.5 m along the height of the masonry, as well as at the level of each overlap.

The number of longitudinal reinforcement bars is taken at the rate of one bar for every 12 cm of wall thickness, but not less than two for a wall thickness of 12 cm.

The floor is blocked only after the installation of partitions.

In places where partitions intersect with an overlap, mortgage givers are arranged. Embedded parts are attached on both sides of the partition in a checkerboard pattern, see fig. 23. The installation step of embedded parts should not exceed 1.5 m on each side.

Rice. 23. Scheme of fastening of partitions in places of interfacing with overlapping with embedded parts

Bearing walls are the main structural elements of a building and without them, the building will simply fall apart. Interior walls can be demolished without the risk of building collapse. We will talk here about how to create brick partitions with a thickness of 120 mm.

Why exactly 120 mm? Yes, all because 120 mm is the width of a standard red ceramic brick. Accordingly, we will also talk about walls, the thickness of which will be equal to the width of a standard brick.

Preparation for work

Characteristic

Let's start with a small introductory part, which will tell you what this very interior partition is. First of all, you need to know that partitions are both portable and permanent.

Brick structures are permanent and are placed in places subject to loads and pressure. Brick building material has high quality indicators, such as strength, moisture resistance, etc. The thermal conductivity of a brick is of average value.

Preparatory work

Before you start laying, you need to stock up on the necessary materials and tools. Of course, we need a brick. Calculate the dimensions of your wall and calculate the amount of building material required.

For the walls, either hollow building bricks are used. The second option is used if you want to create a lightweight design.

In addition to the most important building material, you will also need:

Goats. Or another convenient design that allows you to conveniently lay the upper rows.
Trowels. It is with these tools that the main work will be carried out.
Solution container.

To prepare the solution, you will need the constituent parts of this very solution. These include: sand cement and water.

Before starting work, clear the place from which the wall will begin. Mark the contours so that the thickness of the brick partition is marked. Do not forget about lighting and safety during work.

Solution preparation

The main task of the mortar is to create a bond between the rows of brick material. In order for a do-it-yourself bonding mixture to turn out to be of really high quality, you need to know the technology for its creation.

The preparation of the cement composition involves the following steps:

Thorough sifting of sand. The sieve should be fine. Sifting should occur smoothly, without jerks, the sand should gradually and evenly fill the sieve and pass through its holes without creating any special congestion.
Creation of a dry mixture of sifted fine sand and cement. Cement and sand are poured into the container based on the usual ratio of 1:3. That is 1 part cement and 3 parts sand.

Note! The proportion indicated here is not universal. For different conditions, different brands of cement and other components, this ratio will vary.

Pouring water into the dry mix. Water is poured into the middle of the tank, into a kind of funnel created in advance from a sand-cement mixture. When pouring water, you need to constantly stir the solution.

The mixture will be ready when it acquires the consistency of fatty sour cream. Prepare the solution in such an amount that it does not remain after the completion of one or another stage of work. If the mixture begins to "harden", then the addition of water to it will adversely affect the properties of such a solution.

To know the amount of mixture needed for a particular row, accurately calculate parameters such as the thickness of the brick partitions, their height and width.

masonry

Basic operation

So it's time to talk about how the laying of a single-row brick interior wall is made. Next, instructions will be given, following which you can organize the workflow and perform all the operations yourself.

To begin with, remove from the walls and from the floor, at the joints with the partition, all finishing materials, whether it be plaster or parquet. Clean the floor surface where the bricks will be installed. Wet this surface with water.

Pull the rope from one edge of the intended masonry to the other. The rope should be perfectly flat horizontally. You need to control the evenness with a level. The rope is located at a height equal to the height of the first row of masonry.

Apply the solution to the floor. The width of the mortar line should be 3 cm wider than the thickness of the brick partition.
Start laying out the first row of bricks. Lubricate the ends of the bricks with the mixture. Level the row with a trowel.
The second row of masonry should be started not with a whole brick, but with its half. Remember to tighten the rope in the same way as for the first row.
Continue laying bricks in this manner, row by row.

When creating brick structures, the so-called dressing is used. It provides strength to the barrier. It is done by laying metal reinforced rods into the seams. Do this every 5 rows.

Control your workflow. Make sure that the brickwork is even, both horizontally and vertically. Control is carried out using a level and a plumb line.

Final operations

When your partition is almost finished, there is almost always a small space between it and the ceiling, which is less than the width of a brick in its width. If the space is relatively large, then it is filled with broken brick material dipped in mortar. If the distance is small, then you can get by with just one solution.

To divide the internal space of the room into separate zones, to delimit the rooms among themselves or to carry out redevelopment, the construction of partitions is required. Brick masonry is one of the most popular options. They are distinguished by their strength, durability, good sound insulation characteristics, as well as resistance to moisture.

Of course, the construction of structures such as brick partitions can be entrusted to professionals. However, if you wish, you can save on paying for their services and do the work yourself - the main thing is to approach this issue responsibly and follow the installation technology.

The main types of brick

Brick for partitions can be chosen based on financial and economic considerations. It is important to take into account the characteristics of each variety in order to choose the best option for a particular case.

There is a whole range of parameters on the basis of which a brick is classified:

Options	Varieties	Notes
the size	Single (250 x 120 x 65 mm)	The most convenient for the construction of brickwork are single and one and a half varieties.
	One and a half (250 x 120 x 88 mm)
	Eurostandard (250 x 60 x 65 mm)
	Double (250 x 120 x 138 mm)
filling	full-bodied	Solid bricks are more durable and durable, while hollow bricks are lighter and have better thermal insulation properties.
filling	hollow
appointment	Private	Used for the device of the main masonry.
	facing	It is used in the production of finishing works.
	furnace	It is intended for a laying of furnaces.
Manufacturing method and material	ceramic	The material is clay. The manufacturing method is firing at high temperatures in a special furnace in order to give the material the necessary strength characteristics.
Manufacturing method and material	Silicate	Material - a mixture of quartz sand, air lime and additives (in some cases, a pigment is introduced into the composition to give a certain color). The manufacturing method is semi-dry pressing followed by autoclave treatment with water vapor.

Like any other structural material, brick has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Among the advantages should be highlighted:

Strength. Thanks to this characteristic, load-bearing walls and partitions made of bricks are subject to long-term and safe operation.
Moisture resistance. Brick tolerates moisture well, so partitions of this material can be erected in rooms for any purpose - for example, a brick partition in a bath is the best solution.
Soundproofing brick walls. Even a half-brick partition can provide a good level of noise protection if a plaster layer is applied to it (the sound insulation index of a brick partition 100 mm thick is 42 dB, after plastering the indicator increases by 3 dB).
Aesthetics. Ceramic brick masonry is suitable for the production of almost any finishing work. In addition, such designs look aesthetically pleasing without additional decorative coating.
Fire resistance. Brick is suitable for the construction of fire partitions, including in baths. The fire resistance of a 120 mm brick partition is 150 minutes, while the fire resistance of a brick wall 0.25 m thick will be 330 minutes.

As for the shortcomings, there are few of them:

the complexity of the work;
the need to prepare a solid foundation;
large weight of the finished structure.

Before proceeding with the construction of a brick partition with a thickness of 120 mm or less (with a greater thickness, the structure is already considered a wall), it will not be out of place to familiarize yourself with the recommendations that will help save time, effort and money when installing this structure:

The device on the ground is not allowed (including in the basement). Before starting masonry work, you will need to arrange a small base:

prepare the formwork according to the width of the future wall;
lay a reinforcing mesh on its bottom (rod diameter 0.8 - 1 cm);
pour concrete mortar (layer not less than 300 millimeters);
lay out another reinforcing mesh (rod diameter 0.6 - 0.8 cm);
pour concrete mortar (finish layer);
arrange waterproofing from glass isol or roofing material.

Brick interior partitions are a serious additional load on the load-bearing structural elements, in order to reduce it, hollow varieties can be used. But if the structure is installed in a bathroom, kitchen, bathroom or other room with high or changeable humidity, then only solid bricks can be used.
If a brick partition is being erected after the capital construction has already been completed, then it can be connected to the main wall using metal pins.
Brick partitions cannot be installed on plank or parquet floors - the wood can collapse under the load from a massive structure, which will lead to the latter sagging.

If the length of the pier exceeds 300 cm, then it must be connected to the floor structure.

The technology of building a brick partition

The following step-by-step instructions will help you to carry out the work on the construction of a brick pier yourself:

Step	Description	Note
Marking	make the necessary measurements (if it is planned to plaster the partition, then the thickness of the brick structure should be taken into account along with the thickness of the layer of finishing material); Mark with a marker or pencil at the points where the future partition will be located; if a doorway is provided, put the corresponding risks; Using the building level, draw vertical lines on the walls (this will help to control and eliminate possible deviations of the structure from the vertical position in time).	For interior partitions, in most cases, the brick-on-edge method is used. In this case, the thickness of the brick partitions of 12 cm is taken into account and the average thickness of the plaster layer is added to it - 3 cm.
Installation of "beacons"	- one brick is installed at a right angle against the load-bearing wall, limiting the future partition on one side. A second brick is installed from the opposite end.	The horizontality of the line between the "lighthouse" bricks is checked with a regular cord (if necessary, it can be adjusted).
Solution preparation	You can use ready-made dry mixes or prepare a partition solution yourself. Classic masonry mortar consists of the following components: - sand (it must be sifted first) - 4 parts; - cement - 1 part; - water - 1 part (it is added in small portions, constantly mixing the composition to obtain the desired consistency). To increase the level of moisture resistance, clay (finely ground) is added to the composition - this option is suitable if a partition is being erected in a brick bath. When it comes to a room with normal temperature conditions and moderate humidity (for interior partitions), it is permissible to add lime to the solution in order to reduce the amount of cement required.	In any case, the masonry mortar should have an average density. Too liquid composition will have a bad effect on the quality of the finished structure, as it will simply pour out of the seams, while thick seams are obtained from a solution of excessive density, which also does not benefit the strength and aesthetic characteristics. Modern dry building mixes are of good quality, easy preparation (just dilute them with water in accordance with the instructions), so many craftsmen opt for ready-made compositions.
masonry device	1 Brick laying "dry" (that is, "rough masonry" without mortar).	Allows you to determine the number of whole bricks in one row. It is especially relevant if it is required to provide a doorway in the partition.
	2 Laying the leveling mortar layer.
	3 Laying out the first row of bricks.	After completing this step, it is required to control the quality of performance using a plumb line and a building level.
	4 Lay out rows 2 to 5.	The laying of each subsequent row should be carried out with “dressing” of the seams - that is, the seam between two bricks of the second row should be located above the middle of the base brick, and so on. This will ensure high strength of the finished structure.
	5 Reinforcement of masonry with wire mesh.	It is recommended to use wire with a thickness of 0.4 to 0.6 cm. The maximum height of the partition is 3.25 m without reinforcement. The height of a brick partition with reinforcement can reach 3.9 m.
	6 Checking the level of the horizontal and vertical plane of the wall.	SNiP allow for a deviation of the structure from the vertical by 10 mm per meter of the height of the structure, but in the case of partitions in an apartment, it is better to do without deviations.
	7 Repeat steps 4 - 6 until the desired partition height is reached.	After a part of the partition with a height of 100 - 150 cm has been laid out, it is required to take a break in work for 24 hours. This is necessary due to the instability of the construction of bricks placed on edge before the mortar sets in strength.
	8 Install the lintel / formwork at the height of the door frame (if necessary).
	9 Seal the gap between the ceiling and the top row of bricks.	Usually, when constructing a brick partition, a gap of about 1 cm remains between the structure and the ceiling. It should be filled with tow. If the gap is larger (most often this happens during the construction of brick partitions in wooden houses), then it can be filled with a mixture of mortar and brick fragments.
Plastering of the partition (provides additional noise insulation, as well as decorative properties)	clean the surface of the wall from dried particles of the solution and settled dust; Attach guides (they will set the thickness of the plaster layer) at a distance equal to the length of the rule; Before finishing the internal partitions in the apartment, lay polyethylene at the base of the partition to protect the floor from splashes and drops of the solution; slightly moisten the surface of the wall; Dilute dry plaster mortar in accordance with the instructions; draw a little solution on a spatula and throw it on the partition with force; smooth the applied mortar with a spatula; Apply the final layer of putty.	Between the completion of masonry work and the beginning of finishing should take at least a day. Plastering is usually done by spraying - it requires certain skills. After the putty is applied, the wall can be painted or wallpapered.

Building a brick partition on your own is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. If you follow the instructions exactly, then the structure will turn out to be strong, stable and durable, and the acquired masonry skills will definitely come in handy in the future.

Video clips on the topic

In order to make it easier for you to master the technology of arranging such partitions, we recommend watching a few videos