Profiles attached to each other with. High-quality fastening of drywall is the key to a long service life. What tools are needed when installing profile elements

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How to fix drywall to a profile: using plasterboard to level walls, create suspended ceilings, partitions, arches and niches

Drywall is the most popular building material, without which more or less serious repairs rarely do. This article is a course for a young fighter: in it I will tell you how to work with drywall, which profiles should be used to assemble frames of a particular design, how frames are assembled, how they are sheathed with plasterboard and how seams and other surface defects are puttied.

Profile types

First - about what types of profiles you will find in hardware stores.

The most common:

In addition: on sale you can find suspensions (straight and adjustable), corner protection profiles and crabs for connecting profiles along the length and at right angles.

"Crab" for connecting ceiling profiles at a right angle.

If the profile is called a ceiling profile, this does not put an end to its use when leveling a wall or installing a niche. Profiles are nothing more than versatile building blocks that can be used to create frames of any shape. Our task is to choose the most suitable element from the whole variety of details of the designer.

Frame assembly

How and from what to assemble frames for a particular design?

Suspended ceiling

For a simple single-level ceiling you will need:

Simple ceiling and ceiling guide profiles. The total length of the guide is equal to the perimeter of the ceiling, adjusted for trimming parts. The length of the ceiling (CD) should ideally be equal to or slightly exceed the length or width of the room, and the number should allow them to be mounted in 60 cm increments.

If one of the dimensions of the room exceeds the length of the GKL sheet (the most common sheets are 2500 and 3000 mm long), at the seam between the main and additional sheets, a transverse jumper from the same CD will be needed;

To ensure that the volume of purchases exactly matches your needs, do not be too lazy to sketch out a sketch of the ceiling structure with dimensions.

Direct. They are located along each ceiling profile with a step of no more than 80 cm;

Dowel screws 40x6 or 60x8 mm. With them we will fasten the frame elements and suspensions to the walls and ceiling. For a room of 20 m2 they take 120 - 150 pieces;
Self-tapping screws for metal 9 mm long. They are needed to connect the parts of the frame. The notorious 20-meter room will need about one and a half hundred of them.

If any of the dimensions of the room exceed the length of commercially available ceiling profiles, straight connectors for them will come in handy.

However: I successfully spliced CD profiles, putting them into each other and tightening them with metal screws.

A right angle connection can also be made without "crabs".

What tools are useful in the process of assembling the frame?

Metal shears for cutting profiles;
Perforator with a drill of the appropriate size for their attachment to capital structures;
Screwdriver with cross bit. It is still possible to wrap a dowel-screw with a manual screwdriver, but to screw a self-tapping screw into galvanized metal is not.

Here are the instructions for assembling the ceiling frame:

Mark a horizontal line on the walls along which the guide profile will be attached. The horizon is checked with a water or laser level. To beat the lines on the walls, it is convenient to use a coated rope;
Fasten the UD guide along this line around the perimeter of the room. Mounting step - 60 centimeters;

Mark in increments of 60 cm the mounting lines of the ceiling profiles;

60 centimeters should be equal to the distance between the axes of the CD profiles, and not the gap between their edges. The width of the GKL sheet (120 centimeters) should always be a multiple of the step between the profiles.

Fasten straight hangers to the ceiling along the marking;
Insert the ends of the CD cut to length into the guides and press them with the bent ears of the hangers to the ceiling;
Stretch several threads from wall to wall across the ceiling profiles, which will be used to mount the elements of the crate in one plane;
Alternately bending the ears of the suspensions, lower the profile until it touches the thread and pull the ears of the suspension to it with metal screws. The rest of the ear breaks off or folds up.

How to make a two-level ceiling?

The difference is formed due to short racks from the same ceiling or rack profile, the bent tongue of which is attached to the ceiling with a dowel-screw. Racks are interconnected by a guide profile, which, in turn, is connected by horizontal jumpers to the same UD fixed on the wall. To give the structure additional rigidity, intermediate racks or adjustable suspensions with knitting needles can be used.

How to make the border between ceiling levels curvilinear?

The guide profile edging the border is notched along the side walls and fastened with a bend. The smaller the pitch between the notches, the smaller the allowable turning radius.

How to fasten profiles and suspensions to wooden walls or beams?

Ordinary phosphated self-tapping screws with a length of 45 millimeters. The self-tapping screw is screwed directly through the profile or suspension, the hole for it is not drilled.

The installation of a false ceiling from GKL has several subtleties:

The overlap before filing the GKL must be treated with antiseptic primer. It will protect you from the appearance of mold during leaks from neighbors;
The space above the false ceiling must be ventilated. The most reasonable way to organize ventilation is an exhaust ventilation duct above the ceiling level and two or three ventilation grilles in the ceiling at the maximum distance from the ventilation duct;
The adjoining of the suspended ceiling to the walls is easy to finish with a foam or polyurethane ceiling plinth or molding.

By the way: a wide molding or niches along the perimeter of the ceiling allow you to organize its hidden lighting with LED strips.

Wall alignment

How to level a wall with drywall on a galvanized frame?

With a significant curvilinearity of the walls, the frame is assembled in the same way as in the case of a single-level suspended flow:

Along the perimeter of the wall, a UD guide is attached to the ceiling, floor and adjoining walls;

In this case, a damper tape is laid between it and the capital structures. It will eliminate the transmission of the floor, walls and the flow of acoustic vibrations, which will help maintain silence in the room.

With a step of 40 or 60 centimeters (depending on the requirements for structural rigidity), CD ceiling profiles are mounted;
They are tied to the main wall with direct suspensions.

Wall cladding can carry additional functions:

Warming. In this case, slabs of glued mineral wool 50 mm thick are attached directly to the wall with umbrella dowels. The ears of the suspensions are passed directly through the grooves cut in the insulation;
Communication masking. The frame can hide the wiring of water supply, electricity, local network, sewerage, air conditioning lines, etc.

If desired, niches or shelves can be provided in the frame. Each of them is framed by a guide profile; the same profile is attached to the main wall. Jumpers from CD segments are inserted between them.

However: with a significant depth of niches for wall cladding, you will have to use the CW rack profile.

In the photo - a niche frame from a rack profile.

Partition

For a light partition you will need:

Guide profile UW 50 mm thick. Its total length is quite predictably equal to the perimeter of the partition;
Rack-mounted CW with a height not less than the height of the room. The number of racks is calculated for a step of 60 cm;

Dowel screws;
Self-tapping screws for metal for connecting racks with guides.

The procedure for mounting the frame is as follows:

The partition line is marked. The markings on the floor and ceiling must be checked by a plumb line: the racks must be strictly vertical;
UW guides are attached according to the marking. A damper tape must be placed under them. In its absence, the same function can be performed by polyethylene foam cut into strips with a thickness of 3-4 mm;
Racks are inserted into them with a constant step, trimmed in length (3 - 5 mm less than the height of the room);

Slab floors are often uneven. Feel free to measure the height of each rack.

Racks are attracted to the guides with metal screws (two screws on each connection).

With special requirements for the rigidity of the partition (large room traffic, significant mechanical loads), it can be increased in the following ways:

Replacing the frame elements with thicker ones (75 or 100 millimeters);

Installation in racks of wooden embedded parts from a bar measuring 50x50 mm;
By connecting U-shaped rack profiles in pairs: one profile is inserted into another, forming a closed square rack.

If a door is provided in the plasterboard partition, it is mounted at the frame assembly stage. A gap is left under the doorway in the lower rail. Do-it-yourself door installation looks like this:

The door leaf is wedged in the box. If the box is squeezed by the frame, the door will jam when opening and closing;
A strip of mounting foam or sealant is applied to one of the vertical racks of the box from the outside;
The box is pressed against the rack adjacent to the opening, after which it is pulled from the side of the profile with self-tapping screws 25 mm long in increments of no more than half a meter;
On the other side of the opening, the second rack is similarly mounted. Immediately after attaching to the door frame, it is connected with self-tapping screws to the upper and lower guides;
On top of the upper jumper of the box, another section of the profile (rack-mount or guide) is hemmed, the ears of which are attracted to the racks with metal screws.

A correctly set door should not spontaneously open or close. If this happens, you need to adjust the position of the box between the uprights. Foam or sealant allow correction only within 7 - 10 minutes after the frame is assembled.

The installation of a window (for example, a light window in a bathroom) is completely identical to the installation of a door - adjusted for the fact that the window frame is placed not on the floor, but on a horizontal jumper between the racks.

Arch

How to make an arch frame?

Its edges are formed from a guide profile with notches on the sides. Two profiles cut in this way and bent are connected by jumpers from a ceiling CD or rack UD. The rigidity of the arch is given by the sheathing of the sides with drywall.

GKL sheathing

How and how to cut drywall?

Curvilinear parts are cut with a hacksaw for drywall (it differs from a hacksaw for wood with small teeth and a slight setting of the teeth) or with an electric jigsaw with a saw for wood.

Achtung: this will raise a lot of dust into the air, which will settle on all accessible surfaces and in your lungs. Gypsum dust is especially detrimental to the cooling systems of computers and laptops: it tightly jams the fans; in addition, its abrasive qualities contribute to the wear of the bearing bushes.

Straight cuts are made in a much more humane way: the sheet is cut a quarter to a third of the thickness with a sharp knife, after which it is broken off along a notch on the edge of the table. Lastly, a layer of kraft paper is cut from the back. Minor irregularities remaining at the break can be easily removed with an ordinary carpenter's planer.

How to fix drywall to the profile of the finished frame?

For this purpose, phosphated drywall screws are used. They differ from self-tapping wood screws in a smaller thread pitch. The price of self-tapping screws for wood and plasterboard is the same.

However: wood screws can also be used. However, in this case, you need to be careful when screwing them in: a large thread will allow the screw head to push through the sheet in 1-2 extra turns.

What is the optimal thickness of drywall?

Walls and partitions are sheathed with wall GKL 12.5 mm thick. Lighter ceiling plasterboard (9.5 mm) is traditionally used for filing the ceiling. Arched GKL has a thickness of only 6.5 mm; it is convenient in that it easily bends with a relatively small radius.

How long should the screws be??

When sheathing the frame with one layer of GKL - 25 millimeters. If there are strict requirements for the strength of a partition or wall cladding, two layers of plasterboard are mounted on the frame. In this case, the first layer is fastened with self-tapping screws 25 mm long, the second - 45 mm.

The seams of the first and second layers should not match. The minimum offset size is 50 mm.

What should be the consumption of self-tapping screws?

Here are two guidelines:

The distance between adjacent attachment points to one profile should be 15 - 20 centimeters;

By the way: I usually use the old Russian measure of length - a span (the distance between the tips of the thumb and forefinger extended in different directions). This method of measuring the distance allows you not to reach for the ruler when screwing in each screw, while at the same time getting a constant step between them.

A span is a measure of length that is always with you.

A sheet of standard size (2500x1200 mm) should take about a hundred self-tapping screws. An exception is the fastening of drywall to the profile when the frame is sheathed in two layers: the first layer of gypsum plasterboard will be securely attracted during the installation of the second, therefore, when fastening it, 20-40 self-tapping screws per sheet are sufficient.

How to screw drywall to the profile correctly?

The sheet is pressed tightly against the frame, after which a self-tapping screw with a screwdriver bit inserted into its slots rests against the attachment point;
The screwdriver is set to medium speed. At too low speeds, the tip of the self-tapping screw will not enter the profile, and at too high speeds, you risk piercing the GKL with its hat through and through;
The ratchet of the screwdriver is adjusted so as to work when the cap rests on the surface of the plasterboard;
The hat should be recessed a millimeter below the surface: then it is easy to hide it with putty.

How to sheathe a GKL arch or a curved surface of a multi-level ceiling?

With a large turning radius and the use of arched drywall, there are no problems in principle. If the GKL has a thickness of 9.5 millimeters or more, it can be pre-soaked by rolling the back surface with a spiked roller and moistening it abundantly: after about 15 minutes it will bend, but not break.

Finally, with thick wall material, the notching method works best:

The GKL strip is notched from the back in increments of 10-15 cm. The smaller the turning radius, the smaller the step between the notches;
The sheet is then drawn to the bend, breaking at each notch. The broken surface is later leveled with puttying.

How to ensure that there are no cracks at the seams?

At the stage of sheathing the frame, it is enough to observe one rule: the edges of adjacent sheets must always be attached to a common profile.

There are exceptions, however, here:

At the junction of surfaces at an angle different from a straight one (for example, at the junction of the inclined and horizontal sections of the attic ceiling), fastening to a common profile is impossible. GKL is attached to two different profiles. In the issue of the resistance of the seam to cracks, you will have to rely entirely on reinforcement;
Reinforcement without mounting on a common profile can also be dispensed with on those surfaces that do not experience deforming loads. In my attic, seams without a common profile for the additional and main sheets can be found on the ceiling and at the top of the walls. During the three years of operation, no cracks appeared.

Puttying

The last stage of plasterboard finishing is puttying. For this purpose, final gypsum putties are traditionally used - Fugenfüller from Knauf, Turkish ABS Satin and many others.

How to prepare putty?

Pour water into a wide container at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of dry mix;
Pour dry putty, evenly distributing it over the surface of the water if possible;
After 3-5 minutes, when the maximum volume of the dry mixture is saturated with water, mix it with a mixer, spatula or trowel.

The pot life of the mixture varies from 30 to 45 minutes.

By the way: the well-known Fugenfüller in Russia lives only half an hour, but the less popular ABS and Eurogypsum can be used one and a half times longer.

How to putty the hats of self-tapping screws?

Elementary Watson:

We collect a little putty on a narrow (no more than 12 cm) spatula;
We apply it to the hat recessed in the GKL with two sliding movements crosswise. The second movement removes excess putty;
After drying the gypsum (1 - 1.5 hours, depending on the type of putty and humidity in the room), we repeat the puttying;
We grind the finally dried putty with a manual grater or grinder.

How the seams between the sheets are puttied?

A sickle is glued along the seam - a self-adhesive fiberglass mesh;

The seam is filled directly through it with putty. It is applied with cross-shaped oblique movements with a narrow spatula (10-15 cm). The more densely the seam is filled, the less likely it is that in a year or two it will be decorated with cracks;
The second layer of putty is applied with longitudinal movements of the spatula 30-35 centimeters wide. In this case, the texture of the sickle should be completely hidden.

The seams between the sheets cut in place are cut before puttying. A chamfer is removed from the edge at half the thickness of the sheet at an angle of 30 - 45 degrees.

How to strengthen the corners?

Galvanized corner profile or its plastic counterpart. It will be covered with a layer of putty during the final finishing.

However: I used decorative plastic corners for the same purpose, pasted after puttying and painting on sealant.

Do I need to putty the entire surface of the plasterboard?

Let's just say it's desirable. Putty about a millimeter thick creates a separating layer that allows you to separate the wallpaper from the gypsum board without damaging the kraft paper. In addition, a continuous layer of putty guarantees an absolutely even surface over the entire sheet area and the absence of gaps in the base during painting.

Wash tools and utensils before preparing each new batch of putty. Otherwise, the dried lumps left over from the old portion will leave untidy furrows on the walls.

How putty is applied to the surface of the sheet?

It is applied with a narrow spatula to a wide one and spread with a layer about a millimeter thick with smooth sliding movements. It is easier for a beginner to apply two as thin as possible (“on a tear”) layers.

How and with what to grind the surface after puttying?

I use an oscillating sander with #80 sanding sheets (first pass) and #100 - 120 (second pass). You need to grind with a bright oblique, making all surface defects visible. After grinding, the surface is primed for wallpaper or painting with a penetrating acrylic primer.

Conclusion

I hope that I have succeeded in satisfying the curiosity of the reader. As usual, additional thematic information can be explored by watching the video in this article. I would be grateful if you share your own experience with drywall in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

Proper fastening of profiles for drywall ensures the reliability and strength of structures created from this building material, which is popular today.

What is the profile - 4 varieties

The use of gypsum plasterboards (gypsum plasterboards) for finishing ceilings and wall surfaces suggests the need to form a high-strength structure. It is created using various profiles. They are divided into the following types:

Guides - the main element of the frame for drywall.
Ceiling - used for mounting the base under the plasterboard on the ceiling. The fastening of such products is carried out by means of suspensions and crabs - special fixing elements.
Rack - inserted into the guide profiles.
Corner - necessary for finishing the corners of the structure under the plasterboard. They are used after the finishing of the plasterboard surface has been carried out.

Profile under GKL

Profiles are made in standard lengths - 4 or 3 m. The thickness of such products varies between 0.4-0.8 mm. Do not use profile products with a thickness of less than 0.55 mm. In most cases, they do not provide reliable fastening of the structure.

Frame installation - connection rules

When creating a base for drywall sheets, it often becomes necessary to bend, lengthen and connect the products we are considering at a certain angle to each other. If you need to connect several guide rails in a straight line or at an angle, you should use a special element. It has a simple design that allows you to install two profiles in the ends of the connector. Then they are fixed with press washers and self-tapping screws of small length. When forming frames on the ceiling, there is often a need to use crabs - connecting elements that provide fastening of profile products crosswise.

Installation of the structure with the help of such parts is elementary. It is necessary to insert profiles into the ends of the crab, snap them in, and then bend the antennae that this connecting device has by 60 ° and fix them on the sides of the guide.

Frame installation

Some craftsmen, when mounting the frame, do without crabs. They simply cut the profiles (transverse) along the fold, bend (and sometimes break off) the sides and impose them on the longitudinal guides. Crabs are suitable for making T-shaped joints. In this case, you can create a structure of three profiles by cutting off an unnecessary branch. If the installation of the frame under the GKL requires the connection of the rack and guide profile, the first is inserted into the second. In this case, it is necessary to fix the resulting structure with a self-tapping screw.

Fastening products - how to do it right?

Installation of a profile for GKL is carried out in two stages. At the first stage, it is necessary to fasten the hangers to the base of the structure being created. And only after that profile products are fixed on the installed suspensions. The latter, by the way, should be placed strictly according to the level. Hangers are of two types:

With a knitting needle - usually used when mounting is performed. Such suspensions have an expanding element, a hook and a figured plate. The profile must be attached to the plate. And the hook makes it possible to securely fix the suspension on the base.
Straight - metal perforated strips with a number of holes. Everything is elementary here. Part of the holes allows you to fasten the suspension to the base, and part serves to connect it to the profile.

Profile fastening

In concrete and brick bases, suspensions should be fixed exclusively with dowel-nails. Holes are pre-made under them, the cross section of which must correspond to the diameter of the hardware used. On the ceiling surfaces, the suspensions are fixed with self-tapping screws. Nails may be used to fasten the hanger to a wooden base. But experts advise in such cases to apply. To the foundations of aerated concrete or hollow brick, the suspensions will be properly fixed with special dowels. Such products have spacer antennae and notches applied in the transverse direction.

Note! Installation of suspensions is carried out along one line, which is strictly verified using the building level. If you deviate from it, the correct installation of the profile product will become impossible. The profile is fastened to the suspensions with a spoke by snapping them onto the ledges or using self-tapping screws. And to direct suspension parts, as noted, profile products are attached with special hardware kits. They consist of a press washer and a self-tapping screw.

Now let's figure out how to attach the GKL to the profile. For these purposes, a screwdriver or drill is used. With their help, you will fix the profile to the GKL with 2.5 cm self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws should be used for metal, not for wood. Each individual sheet of drywall is attached to the posts and along the perimeter of the structure. At the same time, the distance between individual hardware is maintained at about 0.2–0.3 cm. Self-tapping screws are sunk 1.5–2 mm into drywall sheets. In no case should they protrude above their surface.

Fixing the profile in the corners - step by step instructions

When performing work with GKL, in some cases it is required to install profile products in the corners. The latter can be external, internal and with non-standard parameters. The easiest way is to form a 90-degree internal angle. The procedure is as follows:

expose the guide profile on the floor;
bring the second product to it at a given angle;
fix the profiles with dowel-nails or self-tapping screws;
perform similar actions on the ceiling;
connect the structures on the floor and on the ceiling surface with a guide rail (it must be installed on the wall, where you will then fix the rack profile product);
insert the rack profiles into the slots of the interconnecting rail and fix them.

Corner profile mounting

If you follow all these steps correctly, you will have a flawless outer 90-degree angle. As you can see, everything is simple. An internal 90° angle is created in the same way. You should not have any problems with its formation. More questions are caused by non-standard angles. They have to be brought up to 90°, which requires considerable time. The scheme of work will be as follows. First, cut the guide profile product along two edges (for ceiling and floor surfaces). Then bend it, trying to bring the guide as close to the wall as possible.

After that, fix the profiles on the ceiling and on the floor. Here it is important to achieve a rigid fixation of the products in each of their sections so that the shape of the profile remains unchanged. We hope you understand how to fix profiles under the GKL. Get to work!

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 3 minutes

Drywall constructions are very often used in apartment renovations. Many owners seek to save on the services of professionals and try to do the installation themselves. In order not to be disappointed in the end result, you need to know how to fix the drywall profile to the wall. After all, not only the appearance, but also the durability of the structure will depend on the quality of the frame.

Commonly used types of metal profiles

When attaching drywall to walls and ceilings, use the appropriate metal profiles:

PS - rack;
PN - guide profile;
PP - ceiling;
PPN - guide ceiling.

Surface marking

An important and painstaking stage. The appearance of the entire structure will depend on the thoroughness of the markup. An incorrectly set metal profile may not be immediately noticeable, but it will definitely appear after the work is completed.

On the surface of the wall, the most protruding point is searched. The distance from it to the inside of the drywall must be no less than the width of the metal profile used.
A line is drawn on the floor, indicating the outer border of the guide profile.
With the help of a plumb line, this line is transferred to the ceiling. Such marking is required when attaching drywall to the wall on the profile, since it is necessary to obtain a single plane.
Markings are made on the wall for the installation of rack profiles. The drywall sheet has a width of 1200 mm. Their docking must be carried out on the surface of the metal profile, so each sheet must be screwed to 3 or 4 racks. Accordingly, the step between the rack elements of the frame should be 40 or 60 cm. In most cases, preference is given to the option with three profiles per sheet: two along the edges and one in the middle.
On the lines marking the center of the vertical rack profiles, every 60 cm, mark the installation sites for direct suspensions.
Places are marked for horizontal jumpers and suspensions for their fastening.

Mounting the profile to the wall

The rooms in the apartment, and, accordingly, the walls can be different: they differ in size, surface curvature or the presence of windows. In each case, there will be a different algorithm for fixing drywall, but the general rules will remain unchanged. Consider the simplest option - leveling a wall without windows.

Do-it-yourself installation of a profile for drywall begins with the installation of guides on the floor and ceiling. Before that, it is glued to the surface of the metal profile adjacent to the floor or ceiling. The algorithm for further actions is as follows:

You can fix the bottom rail on a wooden floor using self-tapping screws. Holes are drilled in the ceiling or the surface of the concrete floor with a perforator and the guides are fixed to the dowel-nails. Usually, the profiles already have ready-made holes, but they can be made independently in increments of 25–30 cm.
With the help of dowel-nails, direct suspensions are attached. Their "wings" are bent in the form of the letter "P". With their help, in the future we will expose vertical racks.
Vertical profiles are inserted into guides.

It is better to connect the elements of the crate using: the heads of small self-tapping screws for metal (they are also called “fleas”, “bugs” or “seeds”) can interfere with the tight fit of the GKL to the frame.

"Beds" of the rack are attached to the suspensions.

In order to set all the racks in the same plane, they do this: they install two extreme profiles, controlling their deviation with a level or plumb line. Then 3-4 nylon threads are pulled between them. They carry out the installation of the remaining racks.

The hangers have a number of holes for self-tapping screws, with which it is easy to achieve the required position of the metal profile. After that, the "wings" of the suspensions are gently bent to the sides so that they do not interfere with the further installation of the GKL.

In places of horizontal joints, transverse crossbars are made. They are attached to suspensions, and for connection with vertical posts, the side walls are cut off at a distance of 5 cm at the profile. Another option is to use a single-level crab connector.
After mounting the frame, you should once again check whether all the elements are in the same plane. It is much easier to correct flaws at this stage than after fixing the drywall.

It will be useful to draw up and save a plan for the location of profiles with dimensions. After fixing the drywall and its high-quality putty, the joints of the sheets will no longer be visible. Especially if there is some kind of finishing coating on top of the GKL, such as wallpaper. It is not worth relying on your memory or on the marks on the wall: who knows when there will be a desire to fix a lamp, a mirror or a shelf on the wall? By this time, the marks will definitely be eliminated, and getting into the profile, wanting to mount, for example, on a butterfly dowel, will be very unpleasant.
If the profile is not long enough, it can be increased. You can connect products "overlap" or "butt". In the second case, an additional piece of the profile is used, or the end of the guide plays its role. The junction is fixed on the sides with self-tapping screws, which will not interfere with the tight fit of the drywall sheet to the frame.

You can create a variety of elements and designs. The reliability of all structural elements depends on how tightly the profiles are fastened together. This work can be done in several ways. There are proven and reliable ones that are used in most cases, but sometimes improvised materials can also be used.
Existing options for connecting the profile to each other

Consider how to connect drywall profiles to each other correctly, and what nuances need to be taken into account when. The technologies are simple, and therefore it is easy to connect the profiles with your own hands, the main thing is to prepare all the necessary materials and.

There are many designs on the market that are produced to connect profile parts with.

An example of a crab connection of profiles

Connectors can have a different look and configuration, but there are the most popular ones, which we will consider, for convenience, we will do this in the form of a table:

Extension cords	They are used for the profile 60x27 - this is a special insert that can connect the elements with an accuracy of a millimeter, Subsequently they are screwed in. The elements are made of galvanized steel, in the middle there is a special recess that helps the ends of the profile to fit snugly against each other.
"Crab" - single-level connector	Used to connect profile elements on the same level. is such that it is possible to connect profiles on four sides - this is very convenient when installing transverse jumpers. At the same time, installation is easy, fast and reliable. Products are made of hardened galvanized steel, they bear a considerable load. Used to connect profile elements on the same level. The design of the crab is such that it is possible to connect profiles on four sides. This is very convenient when installing cross jumpers. At the same time, installation is easy, fast and reliable. Products are made of hardened galvanized steel, they bear a considerable load.
Two level connector	This element is used if you need to fix profiles located one above the other. With the help of this element, it will not be difficult to assemble a two-level structure, while it will be very reliable. It is mainly used by professional developers, private traders rarely use it, but it is a convenient element with a lot of advantages.
Side Connector	An unfamiliar element that is practically not used, but it is very simple to connect parts with its use. It is designed to connect two perpendicular elements.

The main types of drywall

The technical process for the manufacture of drywall is gaining momentum in new directions. Modern technology does not stand still, which means that the range of drywall is also changing. New types have even better properties and indicators for construction.

In general, the concept of a drywall sheet is a durable material for finishing work. The sheets come in different lengths and widths. The type of drywall material is of several types:

ordinary GKL;
moisture resistant;
fire resistant;
moisture and fire resistant.

Each type of GKL has its own strict purpose. Ordinary sheets are ideal for decorating rooms where there is no high humidity and no fire. It is suitable for bedrooms, corridors, living rooms. You can work with it both on the walls and on the ceiling.

we use a special moisture-resistant drywall for finishing the bathroom and toilet

Moisture resistant ideal for bathrooms, toilets. It is also distinguished by a special composition that does not allow the appearance of fungus and mold on the material.

Fire retardant, ideal for kitchens and fireplace areas. The deformation of the material will only occur at very high temperatures.

The latter type can be used almost everywhere, because it combines all the best properties. But, its cost quite often scares off those who are going to make repairs.

It is known that the types of drywall are divided depending on the brands. It is about size, norms and endurance. There is a wide choice of manufacturers for customers. And the cost of the material can vary significantly. Therefore, choosing a quality material, on the one hand, is not a problem, on the other hand, it is a difficult task, if we consider it from the point of view of a huge range.

we fix drywall to the surface without the use of a frame

Sheets are fastened in two ways - straight to the wall, or using a profile.

The first option is suitable if the walls are even. For those whose walls in an apartment or house are not particularly even, the ideal solution would be the construction of a profile of a special profile. Since wall mounting is a fairly simple option, it is worth considering working with a profile for GKL.

Attach sheets to a special design . They are metal and wood. The body structure is supported by the fixing material. As a rule, nails and dowels are chosen for fastening the profile. For wood and metal, different materials will be used for fixing. There are self-tapping fleas and self-tapping bugs. The classification is supplemented by self-tapping nails for the profile and shurpa. These parts are strong enough, because they serve as the basis for firmly fixing the drywall construction.

Profile work. Stages of creating new walls

At the beginning of the work, the walls are brought into proper form. To do this, usually just remove the wallpaper. Before purchasing the material, the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is calculated and calculations are made regarding the future purchase. Usually, in construction stores, specialists help to make the necessary calculations. Below are standard sheet sizes. They will help to calculate how much material will be needed for finishing.

Standard drywall sheet dimensions:

classic - 12 × 1.2 × 2 m;
moisture resistant - 12 × 1.2 × m;
fire-resistant - 12 × 1.2 × 2.5 m.

If the length along the wall is 2 meters and the width is 1.5, then the parameters are simply multiplied together. So, the result is 3 meters. That is, you need 3 sheets of drywall.

The stores have their own rules for the sale of drywall. Some provide the opportunity to buy an already cut sheet. Since in the process of finishing excess material remains.

By and large, the profile is an essential element for the installation of a general drywall construction. The vertical and horizontal profiles are responsible for the balance of the entire deck. The standard layout is made of a metal alloy. Now there is a modern approach to the manufacture of profiles. With the help of special equipment, it is possible to produce not only straight profiles, but also arched, curved, oval, rectangular and so on. It all depends on the very idea of \u200b\u200bdecoration.

For simple wall cladding, you will need a rack profile. In construction, each type of material is associated with each other.

The profile is not fastened without a channel. The channel is a piece of metal part under the frame.

The main part is called the back, and the side is called the shelf. The dimensions of the rack profile are calculated taking into account the backs and racks. And the most common sizes are 50, 65, 75, 100 mm.

fasten drywall to the wall using a rack frame

Self-tapping screws are required for suspension in the room. Their purpose will be important for connection and fixation. Cross installations and brackets will be connected. About 40 screws are used for one sheet. If the calculation is carried out on 3 sheets of drywall, then approximately 120 pieces will be needed.

It is difficult to count dowels and nails. They are sold individually and packaged. Your best bet would be to buy a package. Nails, screws, bolts in repairs are never superfluous.

People doing repairs will definitely be faced with the question of how to fix the drywall profile. It is necessary to consider the general rules for the implementation of fastening. For the construction of the structure you will need:

direct suspension;
drywall;
profile;
anchors;
dowels-nails;
drill;
perforator;

Interestingly, there are various tricks for working with GKL. For example, if you cut and break cardboard, then you need to remember about the different options for this procedure. Having bought a bent drywall - this does not mean that you do not have to break it. To cut a large sheet, you need to make a cut. It is desirable to make an incision on the side on one side. Be careful when working with the back of the profile. It cannot be deformed or ruined.

The allowable distance between the compartments is up to 10 centimeters. As an average option, choose 5-7 centimeters.

For profile carving, work with a grinder should be avoided. The inner zinc layer may be damaged. Due to the damaged surface, rust stains or stains may appear. Remember that distance is important in the cut of notches.

create curly elements using drywall

Variants of wall decoration with figured drywall arches are found in many elite houses, restaurants, cafeterias. In the case of complex design ideas, even more knowledge is required. Finishing with plaster in this case will take a long time. Always the more complex the design, the more time it will take to work with the profile. This applies to both walls and ceilings.

Whatever the parameters of the room, it will be necessary to take into account the time for drying materials. It takes at least three days for the glue to dry. During finishing, you will need to glue some details.

In the product line, such manufacturers as Knauf, Gyproc, Metalist are quite popular. They are distinguished by high quality of metal structures, a guarantee of long-term use, endurance, affordable prices, and a variety of assortment. To choose a quality product, customers need to know what to look for.

When choosing a profile for drywall, you need to know that it can be of two types:

The main and rack view - the main part is made from this material. Sheets of C-shaped drywall with curved edges are attached from above.
Leading view - the main part is inserted into it.

Rack profiles are designated - CW and PC. The guide profile has the designations UW and PN. Ceiling profile - CD and PP. The profile category also includes an angular view. It levels and protects the corner surface.

make holes for dowels to secure the profile

With the help of a perforator, concrete is beaten off and holes for dowels are made. The distance of the hole depends on the size of the dowel. On average, recesses of about 4 mm are made. The dowel should be freely attached, but not loose.

A drill is needed for fixing drywall. If you use glue, then you will need a drill to mount the profile. Anchors perform the function of fasteners. The anchor will be attached to the base to hold the overall structure.

fasten the drywall profile to the wall

Anchor products are made of stainless steel, brass, aluminum. During fastening, the friction force and the shape of the anchor are taken into account. The purpose of the anchors depends on the place of fastening.

If we talk about more complex forms and drywall partitions, then the help of professionals will most likely be needed here. In the case of installing a wall that will divide the room, it is easy to handle it alone. But if this wall has a curved shape, it will be more difficult. The same will be the case with multi-level ceilings. Here, too, the help of a person who has already worked with such structures is needed.

So, how to fix a profile for drywall has become clear and accessible to someone who has never even dealt with this material.