How to connect a pvc panel without a connecting strip. Wall decoration with plastic panels. The technology of wall decoration with plastic panels. Installation of PVC panels on special glue or liquid nails

Wall decoration with plastic panels is widespread. After lowering prices for seamless panels, which allow you to create a solid-looking plane, you can talk about the "plastic wave" in interior decoration.

However, there is foam on the wave: at first glance, there is an abundance of information about finishing plastic, but it is often distorted, and some significant points are obscured. Therefore, solving the question: “Maybe sheathe the walls with plastic panels?” It doesn't hurt to deal with them without prejudice.

plastic as is

The truth about plastic

Plastic panels are harmless

It's right. Chemists-technologists have long since learned to produce high-quality plastics without cadmium, asbestos and other toxic and harmful impurities. Safe technologies for the production of plastics have also turned out to be simpler and cheaper than the previous ones, so only fanatics of the “conspiracy theory” can be afraid of fakes.

Plastic panels are beautiful

It is truth too. The modern range of prefabricated decorative coatings made of plastic is wide and rich, just look at the pictures.

Plastic trim is now "homemade"

And that's right. Seamless (more precisely, apparently seamless) plastic panels allow you to get an interior that is completely non-office look, see fig.

Plastic is easy to make "personal" and "open"

True again. Photographic quality images can be applied to the plastic coating by thermal printing, painted, glued with self-adhesive, see the first selection of illustrations. This allows, for example, to make a living room with your own hands individual, and in the bathroom or bedroom to create the effect of a panoramic window (images can be 3D), without starting a complex, troublesome and expensive redevelopment and without giving you the opportunity to spy on yourself.

Plastic is convenient for inconveniences

Again true. For any designer, a headache is all sorts of housing inconveniences: niches, corners, etc. There is little light and space in them. It often happens that, having suffered enough with the layout, the author is discouraged by the question of the builders: “Listen, man, how can we do this? This is not for you to sharpen iron on a machine! Plastic panels have the precision of a machine-turned hardware, and by working with inconveniences, the designer can apply any solutions suitable to the case, obtaining a completely acceptable end result, see fig.

Plastic makes it easy to change decor

Truth. If the panel is pierced with a sewing needle at an angle from top to bottom, and then an unbent paper clip is inserted into the puncture, then such a hook will withstand from 1 to 3 kg, depending on the quality of the paper clip. 2 punctures are allowed on a plastic board, i.e. a heavy oil painting on wood in a baguette frame can be hung several times. In the same way - drapery, brackets for curtains, lambrequins, etc. And if you walk along the released puncture from the bottom up with a coffee or teaspoon, pressing it with your finger, then the hole will be completely smoothed out.

Plastic is consistent with the technique

Another truth. Ventilation grilles, also plastic or metal, sockets, etc. even on the most painted plastic they look quite natural.

Plastic racks and durable

And it is true. In the bathroom or on a "cold" balcony, PVC with minimal care lasts 10-12 years or more. You just need to remember to clean it from time to time: dust eats into the plastic, as in everything in general, and the tone with the pattern “gets dirty”.

Myths about plastic

Plastic will go on any wall

Indeed, from the walls under the plastic, it seems to be enough to tear off the tatters of wallpaper and knock down the swollen plaster. But the crate still needs to be leveled! Otherwise, they will go to play an ugly glare, the joints of the “seamless” panels will not converge, the curvature of the baseboards will be striking, and in the end what the finishers call “lining” will come out. The device of the crate on an uneven wall may turn out to be cleaner, but no less laborious than its re-plastering. But, unlike plaster, the crate on an unprepared wall often “floats” and again it turns out to be a “lining”.

Plastic does not require skill

Again not true. The end results shown in the figures require fine workmanship and special expensive tools. Attempts to get by with a hacksaw for metal, a square and a drill end with a "lining".

Plastic is hygienic

Perfect lie. Firstly, plastic walls do not breathe - they do not have the proper ratio of moisture resistance to vapor permeability. In the bedroom, breathable walls are a must: without them, you can’t expect healthy sleep, relaxation, and what happens in the bedroom besides sleep and rest. Therefore, the bedroom can be finished with plastic only partially, in the form of decorative panels.

Secondly, plastic glares and polarizes reflected light. This immediately excludes plastic trim for children: medicine with psychology is strictly prohibited.

Finally, the plastic is really easy to clean, and the seams of the "seamless" panels are so narrow that dirt does not accumulate there. But each plastic board is a spatial thin-walled hollow structure with stiffening ribs inside. The voids in the panels are an attractive nesting place for small house evil spirits. In the southern regions, rich in entomofauna (insects), when dismantling the old plastic sheathing, it used to squirt out such that the red-haired fellow-installer suddenly found himself sitting on the closet, with bulging eyes and a gaping mouth, and could not explain how he jumped in there from a place without a run or what brought him there.

Some craftsmen sometimes try to seal the ends of the boards, partially filling the grooves of the installation profiles with silicone before installation. Bitter disappointment awaits them: deprived of the opportunity to freely thermally deform (see below), the boards warp, turning into a “lining”.

Plastic is not flammable

The biggest lie. Yes, it is very difficult to set fire to PVC with a filler, and it is simply impossible with a match or a lighter. But, once in the fire, it perfectly supports the flame, while releasing a huge amount of very toxic gases.

Therefore, if the apartment caught fire - God forbid anyone! - and with a slight or moderate smoke, an unbearable pain in the eyes is felt, a “chemical” smell eats the nostrils and tears the throat, immediately stop extinguishing and run out into the fresh air, leaving your good to the mercy of the flame. And do not forget to immediately call an ambulance - the poisoning process can begin to develop in full force after a few hours, when medicine is already powerless.

Video: sellers about plastic

What are they silent about?

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC), from which plastic panels are made, has a fairly high coefficient of thermal expansion (CTE). Therefore, the walls should be finished with PVC panels with a thermal gap of half the width of the narrow shelf of the installation profile, see below, and the fastening of the boards to the crate should allow reversible elastic deformations in the plane of the board.

Example: from floor to ceiling - 2540 mm. The width of the narrow profile shelf is 12 mm; its wall thickness is 1.5 mm. There are two profiles, on the floor and under the ceiling, so you need to take into account the double wall thickness, but the width of the shelf - only ONCE. We have: 2540 - 2x1.5 - 6 = 2531 mm. This is the length you need to cut the boards.

When installing boards on a soft crate or on a wooden crate, this condition is met, but when fastening with self-tapping “flea” screws to a metal crate, it is highly desirable to use thermal washers, see fig. This complicates and increases the cost of work, but without thermal washers in a hot, humid summer in a room without air conditioning, one or several boards at once can suddenly bounce off by themselves with a bang. Especially often such cases were observed in the abnormally hot summer of 2010.

For laminate and MDF, in such a case, special mounting brackets are provided - clamps that firmly hold the board on any crate, while at the same time allowing it to “fidget” a little along. But MDF with laminate does not expand much from heat anyway, and the design of plastic panels, unfortunately, does not allow them to be fixed with adhesives.

Design

The design of the elements of finishing with PVC panels is shown in the figure.

Explanations:

Tool

Installation of PVC panels on walls requires a set of special tools:

Note: when choosing a stapler for plastic, you need to ensure that the slot through which the staples are squeezed out is located as close as possible to its toe. This will greatly facilitate the installation of the last board.

Plastic installation

In general, wall cladding with PVC panels is carried out in the following order:

Arrange a crate;
Install the start, finish and guide profiles;
The first board is brought into the lower installation profile, and then, having arched into the upper one, the small mounting shelf should be facing the starting profile;
With a mallet with the rule, they bring the board into the starting profile to the place;
Attach the board to the crate through a large mounting shelf in one way or another;
The rest of the boards are also mounted, including the penultimate one;
The last board is cut from the side of the LARGE fastening shelf to the size in width, it is necessary to give a margin for thermal expansion, see the example above;
Having unbent the shelf of the finishing profile (if it is non-separable) with a spatula, the lower end of the last board is inserted into the groove of the installation profile and into the finishing one, this work requires a skilled assistant, and preferably two;
Alternately bending back sections of the narrow shelf of the finishing profile with spatulas, a board is inserted into it to the upper corner;
In the upper corner, the shelves of the finishing and mounting profiles are simultaneously bent with two spatulas, and the board is finally brought up;
Also alternately bending the shelf of the finishing profile, they fix the board together with the profile to the crate;
install plinths.

Notes:

When using a special finishing profile, all the difficulties of operations 8-11 come down to applying and snapping its shelf.

A cheap profile from all these manipulations, it happens, remains bent or cracks along the edge of the corner. You can easily fix the defect - warm up the damaged place with a household hair dryer and immediately iron it with pressure with a COLD iron with a Teflon sole.

For the sake of beauty, the profiles are cut exactly to size along the wall, and then their ends in the miter box are cut at 45 degrees. An option is to wipe the cracks with PVC putty or a homemade compound. For him, plastic sawdust is kneaded on dichloroethane until the dough is thick. Prepare in small portions as needed, the mixture is not stored.

If the crate was carelessly aligned, the last board will immediately show this - its edge will bend outward. It turned out to be a "fake".

crate

Lathing based on a metal profile

They are made from wooden slats or metal C-profiles, see fig. Insulating mats can be laid in the cells. They are fixed to the wall with self-tapping screws in dowels, through or through with clamps or mustaches. The latter is more troublesome, but cheaper: all the work can be done on self-tapping screws - "fleas". Level with a plumb line and bubble level 2, also see fig; rubber or plywood scraps will go to the gaskets.

The battens are quite simple linear, without intersecting logs, with a step of 300-500 mm. But an important condition: the perimeters of both the wall and the openings in it must be completely framed, see the crate diagram. There should be no hanging ends of the log, the exception is the protrusion of the window sill, under it you will have to cut a notch in the panel adjacent to it.

Video: installation of plastic panels on a wooden crate

slopes

- a real headache for plastic finishers. "Dull" corners are not produced, and if they were, then where to get slopes with exactly the right angles for them?

Do-it-yourselfers and pros offer many ways to cover the slope with plastic, but they all come down to making the slope angle straight. However, SNiP with sanitary rules clearly and unambiguously say: the slope must have a so-called. dawn slope, expand inward.

Meanwhile, a very simple method of decorating slopes with plastic has long been practiced, see fig:

We sew both sides of the slope to the corner; allow an indent of half the width of the corner shelf.
We take an ordinary right angle and cut it along the length of the side of the slope with a margin of 40-60 mm in both directions.
We cut one of the shelves of the corner equally at both ends exactly along the length of the edge of the slope angle, pos. BUT.
From the slope angle, draw a line with a pencil at 45 degrees, pos. B.
We apply a corner to the angle of the slope, press it strongly and, following the trace of the line, mark the cut line on it, pos B.
We cut off the excess with a profile cutter or garden pruner.
We cut the edge of the corner from the INSIDE with a mounting knife or a shoe-blade knife by about 1/3 of the thickness of the material.
We apply glue or a home-made dichloroethane compound from the inside to the corner.
Apply, press until it opens as it should, wait for setting - ready.

Soft crate

The installation of plastic panels on a soft crate seems flimsy, but in fact it is such sheathing, which came out from under the hands of the greenest, but neat beginners, that stand for 10-15 years without signs of damage. Why? Soft crate is made of double-sided foam tape, see fig. In terms of thermal deformation properties, it exactly matches PVC, and its adhesive layer is very viscous and elastic: it stretches for the board, and then returns it to its place.

In order for the sheathing on a soft crate to come out really reliable, three conditions must be met:

Clean the wall from wallpaper, paint and level with a rough, durable putty (Hercules, Prospector, etc.) to the nearest half of the adhesive tape thickness, 2-4 mm. Sharp small protrusions and depressions are acceptable, so that the putty, which is already not difficult, is still simplified.
Stock up on a high-quality finishing profile; without it, sheathing on a soft crate cannot be done. However, see penultimate section.
As much as possible, to an instant, reduce the contact time of the adhesive layer of adhesive tape with air. This is what needs to be discussed in more detail.

Lathing installation

The crate scheme is the same as for the others. It is better to take the width of the adhesive tape from 25 mm, and best of all - from 60 mm. Technology:

Installing profiles

The principle is the same - the shortest possible contact of "bare" tape with air:

The long tails of the protective tape are pulled back and the strips are stuck to the "back" with ordinary, narrow and cheap, stationery tape;
They impose the upper installation profile (horizontal), carefully pull out the protective tape from under it by the tail, immediately sticking the profile with pressure, the assistant supports it;
The bottom mounting profile is also glued;
The starting profile (vertical) is applied, the assistant holds it, and the master pulls out the protective tape from under the profile, immediately pressing the profile to the tape, the operation goes from the bottom up so that the profile does not even hang on the tape for a short time;
The finishing profile is also set.

Panel mounting

Panels are mounted similarly to profiles, but with some subtleties:

Cut to size must be very clean and precise to avoid jamming.
The next panel is brought to the place by hands in concert at the two ends; you can’t use a mallet and the rule.
After installing each board, the tails of the protective film are re-glued, and too long, so as not to interfere with work, are cut off.

About the finish profile

As you can see, with all the methods of assembling the skin from plastic panels, it is the finishing profile that is the stumbling block. However, do-it-yourself Kulibins often solve this problem in a purely Russian way:

The finish profile is not mounted at all.
After installing and attaching the last board, a piece of a corner is cut to size - it is cheaper than a profile.
One of the shelves of the corner is roughly cut with side cutters, metal scissors or secateurs to a width of 5-10 mm.
The resulting stub is simply glued onto the last board.

And something is not observed that such a gag in appearance or in terms of durability is inferior to the skin, made in accordance with all the rules and torments of technology.

Video: installation of PVC panels on a metal crate

Conclusion

Recommended - for, not insulated, their own, connected to the living room and. The use of plastic panels in the last two cases facilitates interior design.
They are quite applicable - in ordinary plastic windows with adjustable ventilation slots. Under the skin with seamless plastic, an air conditioner is highly desirable.

Finishing the bathroom with plastic panels is not the best method for solving the problem, but due to its cheapness and simplicity, it is often used.

Today, there are panels for bathrooms that imitate, with various patterns, etc. In terms of cost, these materials almost do not differ from tiles, and savings are achieved due to the cheapness of installation.

Plastic panels can be mounted in various ways, the specific choice depends on the wishes and capabilities of the customer. In the article we will give step-by-step instructions for all the options for decorating walls and ceilings.

Before starting work, you need to purchase materials, but here inexperienced builders make mistakes.

We do not touch on design issues, this is the topic of the following articles. Let's talk about construction aspects.

Check mechanical strength. The stronger the panels, the more durable and better the sheathing. Check them before buying, squeeze your fingers at the end. You will be surprised how different the materials are regardless of the price. There are cheap and durable PVC panels and vice versa, expensive ones, but resembling cotton wool in strength. The quality of the panels depends on the raw materials used, equipment and production technology. Never buy soft panels, in case of damage it is almost impossible to change them.
Check pattern matching. Very often domestic producers sin. Complex multi-color patterns on the panels require the maximum responsibility of the manufacturers. Patterning is not a simple process, quality control must be carried out at all stages of production. Installation of low-quality panels leads to the fact that individual elements on the lamellas do not match. If this happens with ceramic tiles, then by slightly adjusting the gaps, the situation can be corrected, this cannot be done with panels. We understand that it can be difficult to check in a store. Warn the seller that such a check will be done by you at home, be sure to take a check. At home, lay the panels on a flat surface and carefully inspect all the joints, pay attention to how the lines of the pattern or pattern move from one panel to another.
Pay attention to the docking points, there should be no gaps. Unfortunately, some manufacturers manage not only to leave gaps, but also to make them uneven in width. The reason is low-quality raw materials, old machines and the human factor. Marriage becomes even more noticeable if modern spotlights are installed in the bathroom, cracks cast a shadow, the appearance of walls and ceilings will upset even very undemanding clients.
The thickness of the panels over the entire area must be exactly the same. Connect the two lamellas and see if the junctions lie in the same plane. If there is a slight difference in height, then this is a marriage. When lighting the room in these places, shadows of various widths are formed, the appearance of the wall will be irrevocably damaged.
Check the material for plasticity. If the panels are made of recycled PVC, then during fixing it will crack. This is a significant marriage, the fastening strength is significantly reduced. Recycled PVC is obtained after processing products from primary. In terms of cost, raw materials are much cheaper, and this tempts unscrupulous manufacturers.
High-quality panels do not crack when bent

Use the information when buying materials, do not create additional problems for yourself. Remember that high cost does not always guarantee the same quality.

Complete set and additional elements

We will discuss how to calculate the number of panels and additional elements below, and now we will tell you what is included in the package of wall decoration with PVC panels. Select the appearance and specific dimensions taking into account the parameters of the panels.

Name	Brief description and purpose
	It has the form of a plate bent at an angle of 90 °. It is used for finishing of internal and external corners of the room.
	A complex profile, part is installed under the panels, the outer side hides the unevenness of the cuts or surfaces.
	Consists of a corner, the inner part is wider than the outer. Hides the irregularities of the outer corner.
	Differs from the outer width of the sides. The wide one is installed under the lamellas, the outer narrow one hides the irregularities of the inner corner.
	Allows you to connect lamellas without a lock, it is used if the length of the lamellas is insufficient for surface finishing
	It is installed first and last, sometimes it can be used instead of a universal or special corner.
	Is established in places of adjunctions, it can be applied as a platband.
	The supporting element of the frame can be plastic or metal profile.
	Made of metal, presses the panel to the mounting plate. Allows to dismantle panels without loss of factory qualities.

pvc panels for bathroom

The panels are fixed with self-tapping screws with a press washer, staples with a stapler, clamps or liquid nails. The choice of method depends on the materials for the manufacture of the supporting frame and the quality of the walls and ceilings.

How to process material

One of the advantages of PVC panels is manufacturability. You can cut the material in one of three simple ways in two directions.

Method 1. Mounting knife. Use only new inserts, the tip should be as sharp as possible.

Cut direction	Way of execution
Along the panels	Lay the panel on a flat place, mark the place of the cut. When cutting, you need to use a long straight rail. Press it firmly against the surface of the panel and cut the lamella on one side along the entire length with the end of the knife. Then turn the panel over and bend the cut point. Cut off the remaining plane in a bent position.
across the panels	A more complex case requires certain skills. Mark the cut. With the tip of a knife, carefully cut the jumpers between the planes one by one. After the entire width under the ruler has been passed, make a continuous cut in one plane. Bend the cut off part and cut off the second plane from the opposite side.

Method 2. Bulgarian. It is necessary to work with a disk for cutting metals. Disc thickness is minimal. Cutting is very easy and fast, the only requirement is a minimum experience with a grinder. Be sure to follow all safety rules, injuries from the angle grinder are very dangerous. Burrs on the opposite side of the cut break off easily after cooling.

Method 3. Hacksaw for metal. Undesirable option, work hard and long. But in extreme cases, you can use it.

With a jigsaw you can make any cut on a plastic panel

The quality of the cut depends on practical skills. But do not be upset if the cut edge is not very even, additional elements allow you to hide problems in width up to one centimeter. The cut can rarely be worse, the panel will be fit for installation.

How to cut several PVC panels at once

How to calculate the number of panels and additional elements

The bathroom has a small area and many different transitions and corners. It is for this reason that professional builders are not very willing to finish these premises, it takes a lot of time to measure, install the crate and adjust the panels, and there are few square meters at the exit. Builders are paid for meters, not for time, so they choose large premises.

The more corners and transitions, the more unproductive waste there will be. Their number increases if panels with decorative patterns or asymmetrical patterns are selected. Such material does not allow the use of segments in other places. For ordinary panels, the amount should be increased by 10% of the surface area to be finished. In bathrooms, the stock should increase to 15%. In addition, if there are complex patterns, then the panels will have to be counted piece by piece, taking into account the location of the pattern.

Measure the total length of the inside and outside corners, the length of the skirting boards on the floor and ceiling. Decide how much you need a starting profile, whether you need a connecting profile, what elements you will finish the corners with (simple or complex). If you have the skills to work with PVC panels, you can use simple corners, if not, buy complex ones. They allow you to hide errors during cutting or dimensioning. Take your time, think carefully, always buy with a margin. It is very disappointing to go to the store again for a meter or another corner, and time is wasted in vain. Additional elements cost a penny, do not save on them.

When counting the number of rails or mounting strips, keep in mind that the distance between them should not exceed 50 cm. In addition, they must be mounted at the junction of the floor and the flow as close as possible to all corners, window and door openings. Reiki in these places are installed regardless of the location of the last row. Measurements and calculations may take several hours, use them wisely. It will never be possible to accurately calculate the number of clamps or screws. Buy them in packs, the seller will tell you the approximate number of pieces, taking into account the width of the PVC panels.

General requirements for surfaces

One of the advantages of wall finishing technology with plastic clapboard is the low requirements for surfaces. The walls do not need to be specially plastered and leveled with putty, only large cracks are sealed. The height of the irregularities can be up to one 1-1.5 centimeters, everything that is more needs to be cut down.

The climatic parameters between the wall and the sheathing are the most favorable for the reproduction of fungi and other microorganisms; it is impossible to destroy them later. You will have to remove the casing, do disinfection and vapor protection. Only after such events can you begin to mount plastic panels. No matter how carefully you remove the skin, damage to the materials cannot be avoided. If you manage to buy the missing ones with the same characteristics, great. If not, you will have to buy new materials for the entire scope of work.

Installation of panels on the walls on a wooden crate

We will give step-by-step instructions for the vertical arrangement of panels. In the future, we will talk about the technological differences between vertical and horizontal placement.

Step 1. Calculate the surface area of the walls minus window and door openings.

Make a stock taking into account the above remarks. We will fix the lamellas with a stapler and staples, this is the fastest and fairly reliable option. Self-tapping screws for a long time, clamps on self-tapping screws even longer, and liquid glue will not allow replacing a damaged panel if necessary. The crate is fixed to the wall with dowels. If you have special plastic mounting strips, then the lamellas are attached to them only with clamps, they are inserted into special grooves. Advantages of clamps - the fixation area increases, the lower mounting plate of the panel is not damaged. Due to this, the strength of the fastening increases, the clamps are recommended to be used during ceiling sheathing with spotlights. They allow you to withstand the increased weight of the structure.

Step 2 Clear the wall of large irregularities and seal the cracks.

To check the surface, use a large flat rail, apply it in different places and see the clearance. At the same time, check the horizontal position, if the deviation is more than a centimeter, you will have to plaster. If the spread is smaller, then the position of the rails is regulated by various pads.

Step 3 Soak the surface with an antiseptic, make vapor and waterproofing. You can use aluminum foil or plastic wrap. It is allowed to impregnate the walls with liquid insulators, just pay attention that they are for indoor work. Wooden slats also need to be treated with solutions.

Step 4 To speed up the work, mark the position of the rails, use a blue rope to beat off the horizontal lines at the desired distance.

Step 5 At a distance of no more than 10 cm from the ceiling, fix the first rail. Carefully check its position with a level. Insert wedges if necessary. The rail is fastened with dowels. First, make a hole on one side and fasten the dowel, and then on the other. Next, dowels are installed along the entire length, the distance between them is about 20–30 cm. In the same way, fix the rail near the floor.

Step 6 Stretch ropes between them, two at the ends and one in the middle. The ropes perform the function of beacons, you install all the other rails along them. Be sure to frame around window and door openings. Once again check the position of all the rails, make sure that the crate is installed correctly near the openings. If the slats are not in the same plane, then this will negatively affect the panels, the backlight will reveal their incorrect position. To fix the marriage, you will have to dismantle the lamellas and repeat the installation from the beginning.

Step 7 Fasten a corner in the corner, start wrapping around from the far corner of the room. Fix the corner with a stapler, the length of the staples is 6 mm. During fixation, carefully control its verticality along two faces. Not only the quality of work, but also the speed of installation depends on the correct position of the corner. If the angle is not equal to 90°, then you will have to adjust the dimensions of each panel, which is very long.

Step 8 Measure the width and height of the wall in several places. The parameters must be the same. If the spread is less than a centimeter, then all workpieces can be cut to the same size. Count the number of panels, measure the desired length on it and cut off the excess. This will be a template, use it to make marks on the remaining slats.

Step 9. Insert one edge of the lamella into the corner, fasten it to the crate from the back side. Don't forget to check the position. The first panel is installed - continue installation in the same way to the opposite corner of the room.

Step 10 The last panel needs to be cut in width depending on the remaining space. Make it about 1 cm narrower, this will make installation easier. First install the last lamella in the corner, and then move it to the penultimate one until the lock clicks into place.

Finish all wall surfaces according to the same algorithm. A little more work near the openings, in these places you need to measure and cut each element separately.

Installation of a metal frame

The advantage of a metal frame made of profiles is that it allows you to accurately align the position of the rails, regardless of wall irregularities. How is it attached?

Step 1. On the wall, draw the lines for placing the U-shaped suspensions. The algorithm of work is the same as for wooden slats.

Step 3 Cut the U-shaped carrier profiles to length, count their number.

Step 4 Start installing carrier profiles. The vertical position is adjusted using the holes in the hangers or a slight extension of the profiles. If they do not allow you to accurately install the crate, then unbend the suspensions. Such actions do not worsen the bearing performance of the elements. Loads from lamellas act perpendicular to the bend. The elements are fixed to each other with self-tapping screws.

Important. If significant errors were made during the installation of the crate, then they can be corrected only after the dismantling of the PVC panels. It is not only expensive, but also time consuming. Do not forget to constantly monitor the position of the supporting elements. Remember that the most accurate device for measuring the vertical position is an ordinary plumb line. You can buy it or make your own. The level can distort readings up to 2 mm per meter. And if it fell from a great height, then it is impossible to install a crate on it.

What is the difference between vertical and horizontal laying

The only difference is that for horizontal laying of panels, the frame must be vertical and vice versa. For bathrooms, horizontal laying of panels is strongly not recommended. Water easily enters the locks, then penetrates into the space between the panels and the wall. If there is a lot of it there and it is constantly there, then no steam and moisture protection will help. The appearance of mold and fungus cannot be avoided. To destroy them, you will have to completely disassemble the wall covering, carry out a set of special preventive and construction measures, and sheathe the walls again. Such work costs about twice as much as the correct wall cladding.

Practical advice. Do not invent a bicycle, do not create problems for your own money. In bathrooms, install PVC panels only in a vertical position.

Installation of panels on the draft ceiling

For example, let's take panels that mimic a rack ceiling. The draft ceiling does not require any preparatory work.

Step 1. Saturate the draft ceiling with antiseptics, allow them to soak and dry. It is advisable to make a vapor barrier with aluminum foil or plastic wrap. Fix the material with a stapler, carefully seal the joints with tape.

Glue the joints with tape

Step 2 Measure the distance between the opposite walls of the room and cut the skirting board, in the corners the connection is at 45°.

Practical advice. Do not fasten the skirting board to the wall with self-tapping screws. Under the weight of the panels, it will sag a little, gaps will form between it and the wall decoration. In addition, this method of fixation requires perfectly flat planes. Self-tapping screws press the plinth to the depressions, it bends, the appearance deteriorates significantly.

Fasten the elements to the wall with liquid glue, remove excess material immediately. Fix only three skirting boards, the fourth is placed after laying the panels. For a guarantee, you can additionally fix the back of the element to the ceiling with a stapler. Wait 2-3 hours for the glue to dry completely.

Step 3 Ceiling panels should be a few millimeters thinner than wall panels. Keep in mind that each skirting board can fit two centimeters into the panel. Measure the length of the ceiling from edge to edge of the skirting board and add 1.5 cm to this value, the remaining 0.5 cm remains for ease of installation. It is better to measure and cut each panel separately, this minimizes the chance of error.

Step 4 Recheck the dimensions and geometry of the ceiling. If there are slight deviations, then they will have to be gradually eliminated by changing the width of the gaps between the lamellae. The magnitude of the change should not exceed two millimeters, otherwise the adjustment will become noticeable. If the architectural features of the ceiling allow, then align the panels in places that are invisible to the eye. Open areas will already have smooth joints.

Step 5 Insert the end of the panel into one plinth, bend it slightly and insert the other end into the opposite one. Align the panel and tuck the long edge into the third skirting board.

Practical advice. What to do if the plane of the ceiling resembles a rhombus? Such cases happen with hack builders, but this can be corrected. Install ceiling panels diagonally. There is nothing complicated, just cut the end of each panel at an angle. How this is done, we will describe below. The negative consequences of a crooked ceiling - the amount of panel waste increases significantly.

Step 6 Press the panels firmly against each other, fix them with a stapler. The tighter the locks converge, the stronger the connection. If the ceiling is not very even, then during the fastening of the panel at the end between it and the plinth, a gap may appear. To prevent this from happening, push plastic trimmings into these places and only then fix them. Under force, the plastic will shrink to the required thickness, the gap will close. There are difficulties with bending short slats. In such cases, make them another centimeter shorter, the width of the skirting boards allows this. The best option is to immediately lay the panels on the wider side of the ceiling. During installation, do not apply excessive force, do not damage the baseboard, do not scratch the walls, do not break the panel.

Step 7 After all the whole panels are installed, measure the width of the remaining uncovered ceiling. Cut the material according to these dimensions using one of the possible methods.

Step 8 Using the method described above, insert the panel into two skirting boards, connect one edge to the lock. The rest will have to be fixed separately. There are two options. The first is to lubricate the reverse side with liquid nails before installation and glue it. The second is to drill a hole in one plane along the diameter of the self-tapping screw and fasten the second plane to the ceiling with it.

Step 9 Cut off the base piece from the fourth ceiling plinth. Spread the remaining plane with liquid glue and attach to the wall in the right place.

This completes the installation of the ceiling panels. Of course, during operation, you need to leave space for electrical wiring, ordinary or spotlights. If, after installation, gaps are visible in some places, they can be sealed with a sealant of the appropriate color.

Installation of panels to the ceiling on a metal frame

Step 1. Beat off the installation line of the supporting profiles along the perimeter of the room, make sure that the ceiling is horizontal. At a distance of approximately 50–60 cm, fix the remaining profiles. If the ceiling is very uneven, then use suspensions. They are fixed and adjusted in the same way as on the wall. The difference is that the ceiling frame is more difficult to check with a level: it is more difficult to work, hands are raised up and get tired quickly.

Frame for PVC panels

Step 2. Glue three skirting boards with liquid nails, cut them at 45 ° at the corners. If the ceiling plane does not have right angles, then each gash will have to be adjusted. Glue the plinth both to the wall and to the metal profile. During gluing, follow the technology. After the skirting board is attached, take it away and wait 2-3 minutes, then press the element again. Check its position by rule or level. The rule is applied to the lower edge of the plinth. If there are gaps, then carefully move the plinth down with your hand until it stops with an even edge of the rule. Give it time to cool. The cracks in the corners are sealed with a liquid sealant, but for professionals, the fit should immediately be tight. Under the ceiling of the bathroom is very hot and humid. You can be sure that the sealant will peel off after 4-5 years, it will have to be removed, and the gaps re-sealed.

Practical advice. Sometimes, during the curing of the glue, the skirting boards lead a little in the corners, they are at different levels. To prevent this from happening, shove at the corners of the trim, they will constantly keep the two elements at the same level.

Step 3 Insert one end of the lamella into the baseboard, bend it slightly and tuck the other end into the opposite baseboard. Align the panel and slide into the third plinth. We have already mentioned that before installation, you should accurately check the dimensions of the ceiling. If one side is longer than the other, then the difference must be gradually leveled by adjusting the gap between the lamellae. The method, of course, is not ideal, but the best does not exist. Install panels always on the long side of the ceiling. Due to this, it will be possible to reduce the number of cuts and facilitate the bending of the lamellas during installation.

Panel fixing

Constantly check the position of the slats. In order to prevent a jumped-off screwdriver from damaging the end of the panel, place a clean wide metal spatula between them during tightening, it serves as a reliable protection. It is not necessary to twist the press washers into the tail of the panel, it is difficult and increases the risk of damage, the main thing is that it presses it against the profile with a hat.

Step 5 The last panel must be cut to fit the remaining gap. To facilitate installation, make a gap of about 1-1.5 cm, then it will hide in the baseboards.

Step 6 Cut off the back plate of the plinth, spread the remaining surfaces with glue and glue it in the wall. Do not forget that gluing must be done in two stages. If the plinth crawls down under its own weight, then hold it for a few minutes or come up with any temporary stop.

On this work is completed, you can proceed with the installation of lighting fixtures. Even before you start finishing, you should know the type of devices and their installation locations, pre-cut holes of the corresponding diameters in the panels.

Draw on the panel a hole of the desired diameter and in the selected location.
Insert the drill into the drill, adjust it to high speed.
If there is an assistant - excellent, he will put the panel on the edge and hold it firmly. If you have to work yourself, then the panel is held with one hand, while the other works with a drill. This is inconvenient and difficult, the hole will turn out uneven.
Drill a hole on the circle line, press the drill against the line and drive it along the circle. From friction, the plastic will melt, and the drill will "cut" a hole in it.

That's all, remove the burrs and the hole is ready.

What are the features of mounting panels on the ceiling for spot lighting? No matter how light the fixtures are, a large number of them creates an additional load on the panels; over time, the ceiling may sag a little. In order to prevent such consequences, it is necessary to install intermediate jumpers more often, professionals recommend making the distance between them no more than 30 cm. In addition, choose strong lamellas for the ceiling, pay special attention to the characteristics of the locks, they hold the weight.

Can panels be reused? A lot depends on how you shoot them. Cheap materials can produce long longitudinal cracks during detachment of fixation sites. To prevent such a phenomenon, with the sharp end of the mounting knife, cut the junction of the lamellas with the frame along the entire perimeter of the hardware. Before re-laying, it will be necessary to move the supporting frame a few centimeters in any direction so that the fixation is done on undamaged areas.

Video - Vertical laying of panels on walls

Plastic panels for walls - products that are made by extrusion, the material for it is polyvinyl chloride or PVC. In this process, a special composition of molten thick mass is extruded through dies that are shaped to match the panel being produced. After cooling at a certain temperature, the blanks are cut to the desired dimensions. The article will tell you how to lay plastic panels on the walls.

Before finishing the wall with plastic panels, they must be purchased in the right quantity and in good quality, taking into account the characteristics of different types of material for different rooms.

For example:

When decorating a kitchen, bathroom or hallway, preference should be given to moisture-resistant products with high strength, without ornaments and protruding elements.
Balconies should be sheathed with panels that are resistant to sudden changes in temperature, resistant to mechanical stress.

The panels are available in different sizes:

According to the thickness of the panel are:

5 millimeters;
8 - 10 millimeters. In this option, the same components or moldings are used.

The width of plastic sheets ranges from 200 to 370 millimeters. Panel lengths are:

2.6 meters;
2.7 meters;
3 meters.

There is also:

plastic lining with dimensions of 10x300 centimeters;
sheets up to 1.2 meters wide and up to 245 centimeters long;
square or rectangular tiles, the dimensions of which are 300x300 millimeters, 300x600 millimeters or 900x900 millimeters.

The advantages of plastic panels are:

Long service life.
High moisture resistance, and reliable connection of the panels to each other, ensures the tightness of the seams, which prevents water from entering between the elements.
Improved soundproofing qualities.
Resistance to mechanical stress and abrasion.
Possibility of installing an additional layer of insulation under the panels.
The ability to use different design solutions, imitate different surfaces under:

tree (see Panels on the wall under the tree: we choose and mount it with our own hands);
ceramics;
skin.

Simple installation that does not require the use of special equipment and special knowledge.
When installing products, there is practically no dust and dirt.
Easy maintenance, it is enough to wipe once a month with a damp cloth or cleaning cloth, and wash heavy dirt with warm soapy water, without the use of abrasive detergents or solvents.
It can be installed on any surface, regardless of its evenness and degree of smoothness, which allows the installation of a frame crate, regardless of the previously used cladding.
Increased fire resistance, can withstand temperatures over 350 degrees.
No harmful substances are emitted during operation.
Low price.

With such advantages when mounted on a wall, plastic panels also have disadvantages: they cannot be used in places that are designed to evacuate people in case of fire. This is due to the fact that when burning, plastic begins to emit caustic substances and a lot of smoke.

These places can be:

Stair openings.
Venues.

What types of plastic panels are used for wall cladding

The top layer of plastic panels can be done in three main ways:

Lamination. At the same time, a special film is glued onto the front surface of the plastic panels, using a two-component adhesive, which is resistant to light, moisture and abrasion.
Offset printing. The image is applied using a two-stage printer in two stages:

printing a pattern using paints;
coating of panels with antistatic varnish.

With this method, images imitating marble are applied. The main advantage of the offset method is the moisture resistance of the product, its resistance to chemicals and physical impact.

Thermal transfer / thermal printing. Drawings and patterns are transferred to the surface from a thermal film pressed against the panel, and then rolled over it with a hot silicone roller. The process takes place at temperatures from 150°C to 180°C. Under the influence of heat, the lacquer and coloring pigment present on the film are transferred to the PVC blank. At the same time, the film becomes transparent and begins to be wound on reels in order to use it in the future. With this method:

the formation of an additional protective layer from the varnish is not provided;
the surface receives resistance to external influences, to UV rays;
panels have an original design and rich color.

What is needed for the installation of plastic panels

Before covering the walls with plastic panels, you need to purchase accessories for them:

Starting bar.
Finish plank.
Profile for mounting the inner corner.
Profile for setting the outer corner.
Connecting bar.
Plinth floor and ceiling.
F profile.
Soft universal corner, for outer and inner corners.

Installation of components is shown in the photo.

Interior decoration with plastic panels is becoming increasingly popular, primarily due to the ease of installation work. Such panels are made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) - a material that is strong, durable and, most importantly, cheap.

The positive qualities of the panels include:

But there are also disadvantages that you also need to be aware of. First of all, it is:

specific smell, especially in the first few days after installation;
synthetic origin, which is why PVC is not recommended for use in residential areas;
deformation during sudden temperature changes;
low strength (the panel can be damaged even with a slight blow).

We also add that PVC panels, when compared with other finishing materials, are not considered prestigious.

Having dealt with the features of the coating, you can proceed with the installation.

What will be required in the work

Building level.
Guide rails, which are made of wood or metal.
Roulette.
Marker.
Hacksaw.
Perforator.
Square.
Mounting stapler.
Screwdriver.
Stationery knife.

Panel selection

To determine the required number of panels, the total area (ceiling or walls) is measured, and a small margin is added to the resulting figure in case of unforeseen expenses. The thickness (0.5 cm or 1 cm) and width (from 20 cm to 50 cm) are also determined.

Note! The surface of the panels can be of two types - matte and glossy.

Taking into account the chosen thickness, a plastic cornice and moldings (profiles for joining panels) are selected. If not only the ceiling, but also the walls are sheathed, then corner docking profiles will also be needed.

The length of PVC panels varies between 2 m and 6 m. The length should be chosen so that after installation there is as little waste as possible. Ideally, it should be equal to the length (or width, depending on the installation method) of the wall or ceiling.

It is also worth paying attention to the appearance of products. The surface of the panels must be even, without any differences, otherwise the joints will be visible even to the naked eye. In addition, all panels must be from the same batch and have a uniform color.

There are two ways to fix the panels, the choice of one or another of them depends on the level of humidity in the apartment.

In frame mounting, panels are attached to a pre-assembled frame.
Frameless installation means fastening directly to the work surface.

Both methods have both strengths and weaknesses. To find out which one is better, take a closer look at frame and frameless installation.

Video - Finishing with PVC panels

Frame installation

Suitable for rooms with a high level of humidity (bathroom, toilet), with uneven walls or, if necessary, to install hidden lights.

Stage 1. Surface preparation

There is no need to carry out any special preparatory work, but some procedures will still have to be performed.

Step 1. First, all protruding elements are removed from the walls - paintings, lamps, shelves, etc.

Step 2. If the walls were previously tiled, then it must be removed, and if with plaster or wallpaper, then nothing needs to be done.

Step 3. The evenness of the surface is evaluated. All detected defects (recesses or protrusions) are sealed with putty.

Stage 2. Assembly of the frame

Depending on the material, the frame can be of three types:

metallic;
wooden;
plastic.

In most cases, wooden slats are used, but this is unacceptable in too damp rooms (in extreme cases, the tree is treated with an antiseptic). The frame for such premises is assembled from metal or plastic profiles.

Note! There are two ways to assemble the frame - vertical and horizontal. The first method is used for horizontal installation of panels, the second - vice versa.

Often the panels are installed horizontally, so this article describes the vertical mounting of the rails.

Step 1. Horizontal lines are drawn on the working surface in increments of 0.5 m. To do this, you can use the building level.

Step 2 Mounting brackets are installed along each line (they come with rails) in increments of 60-70 cm. Screws are used to fix the brackets.

Step 3. The staples located at the lower and upper points are bent in the form of the letter "P".

Step 4. Slats (metal or wooden) 2x5 cm in size are inserted into the brackets and fixed with 25 mm and self-tapping screws. It is important to observe the plane, so the level is used again.

Note! The frame assembly technology is the same for walls and ceilings.

Stage 3. Sheathing

After checking the strength of the assembled frame, you can proceed to its sheathing.

Step 1. An L-shaped profile is attached to the rails along the entire perimeter.

Step 2 Corner profiles are installed at the joints of the walls.

Step 3. The distance between the outer sides of the guides is measured, 5 mm is subtracted from the resulting figure.

Step 4 Installation of panels should be started from any corner of the room - this will reduce the consumption of materials. The panels are fastened to metal rails with screws, to wooden rails - with a mounting stapler.

Note! If there is no stapler, then small nails can be used.

Step 5. Each next panel is installed in the corresponding grooves of the previous one. Due to the well-thought-out design, even an inexperienced person can handle the installation.

Step 6. The most difficult step is installing the last panel, since it will most likely have to be cut. For this you need a hacksaw. The cut panel is first inserted into the profile, and only then into the grooves of the previous one.

Step 1. First, a pre-cut plastic baguette is installed around the entire perimeter of the ceiling. In the corners, its segments are joined at an angle of 45ᵒ, and they are attached to the frame in the same way as when sheathing walls - with screws or a stapler.

Step 2. Then the first panel is taken, bent in the middle, inserted with the ends into the grooves of the baguette, pressed against the frame and advanced until its narrow shelf completely enters the groove of the parallel baguette. Next, the panel is fixed with a mounting shelf.

Step 3. The second panel is installed in much the same way, except that its narrow mounting shelf is docked with the groove of the first.

Step 4. All panels are attached in the same way. Traditionally, when installing the last of them, there may be difficulties with the size - you will have to cut the panel.

In dry rooms with fairly even walls, PVC panels can be installed directly on the walls using liquid nails. The mixture in this case is applied in the same way as when laying tiles - with dotted or straight lines in the center and along the edges of the panel.

This installation method saves time and money, but it is worth considering a couple of important points:

To clean the PVC panels from dirt, use a soft cloth and a detergent (necessarily without a solvent). Do not use a washcloth or hard cloth - they will damage the surface and leave scratches behind. At the end of washing, the walls are rinsed with water, the remnants of the detergent are removed.

Video - Finishing the bathroom with plastic panels

Plastic panels are one of the most popular finishing materials due to their low price and a large selection of colors. One of the big advantages of lamellas is the possibility of self-installation.

Why choose PVC panels, and which ones?

You should buy only certified goods, as fakes are of poor quality, therefore they do not have sufficient strength and quickly fade. Advantages of plastic plates:

high resistance to moisture and chemicals;
simplicity and ease of installation;
hygiene;
fire safety;
durability;
biological resistance;
low cost.

The disadvantage of the material is low impact resistance, so care must be taken during transportation and installation. The strength depends on both the wall thickness and the number of stiffeners inside the panel. We check it by pressing a finger on the panel: if it bends, then the service life will be short.

Depending on the production technology, the panels are printed and film, according to the quality of the coating - glossy and matte. Naturally, the main criteria when choosing lamellas are color and pattern, but there are several nuances that you need to pay attention to when buying a material. If the material is packed, it is advisable to unpack it and inspect each panel:

Let's look at the cut. The thicker the jumper and the polymer layer on the front and back of the panel, the stronger the material. Weight can be a guideline, thick lamellas are heavier.
Plastic should have the same thickness throughout the plate, without thin spots and thickenings.
We check the geometry: the cells and edges should be smooth without flaws.
The drawing on the front side must be of high quality and clearly applied, without blurry spots, scratches.
Buy material from the same batch, if this is not possible, then carefully compare the pattern and color so that the plastic elements do not differ in tone.

The choice of plastic elements depends on the purpose of the room in which the sheathing will be performed. Several types of panels are produced:

1. Traditional lamellas with tongue-and-groove connection in the form of a plastic board.
2. Sheet panels resembling sheets of plywood.
3. Plastic lining, outwardly resembling an analogue made of wood of small width and various colors.

Material should be selected taking into account the design and purpose of the room. PVC lining will perfectly replace the wooden counterpart, create a warm atmosphere. Sheet panels are used for finishing rooms with walls of large areas. Wall panels are ideal for kitchens, bathrooms, hallways and other spaces due to their ease of maintenance: dirt can be easily removed with a cloth moistened with detergents.

The main advantage of plastic is its low cost. Dimensions of slats: width: 20–35 cm, thickness: 8–10 mm, length: 2.7–3 m. Due to such dimensions and low cost, it is possible to finish with PVC plates with a minimum budget.

How to prepare the walls, and what tool to stock up?

We begin work on finishing with the calculation of the required amount of material. First, we take measurements from the room: length, width, height. Then we measure the window and door openings. The calculation of the material depends on the method of fixing the panels. They can be mounted either vertically or horizontally. If the panels are mounted vertically, then we subtract the width of the openings from the length of the perimeter of the room and divide by the width of the lamella. We add 2-3 spare elements to the received quantity. With horizontal fastening, we find the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, divide it by the area of one lamella. Material consumption with this fastening increases due to trimming blanks, so we take 10% more in reserve.

To calculate how many rails are needed for the crate, we divide the height of the wall by the step between the rails and multiply by the perimeter of the room. The result obtained is the required number of rails in linear meters. The number of corner profiles is calculated by measuring the height of the corners and multiplying this value by their total number. In addition, we add the sum of the perimeters of door and window openings to the obtained value.

If we glue plastic directly on the walls, then we carry out preparatory work. We clean the walls from the old coating, repair the surface, filling up all the cracks, level out large defects, treat the surface with an antifungal agent. This will protect the walls under the plastic from mold and fungus, which negatively affects the microclimate of the room. The method of attaching PVC plates to the frame does not require the preparation of walls. In addition, communications and wires can be hidden under the coating. The frame can be made of wooden or plastic slats, metal profiles. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages.

A wooden frame is rarely used, only for dry rooms. The tree is adversely affected by temperature changes, high humidity. Therefore, they are not used in rooms where the climate has a noticeable effect, for example, a veranda, loggia, balcony. We choose a beam of a small section, 30x30 mm and 30x40 mm are suitable. We take a beam of a larger section if we insulate the walls.

U-shaped plastic profiles have many advantages: low cost, convenience and ease of installation, light weight, resistance to moisture and high temperatures. We fix the profiles every 30 cm with dowels and self-tapping screws. We join the profiles at a certain angle, cut the material with a hacksaw and a construction miter box, which makes it possible to obtain even cuts that fit snugly together. An additional advantage of plastic profiles is the presence of cable channels formed due to internal grooves that can be used for laying wires and communications. Due to the thinness of the plastic frame, you can save several centimeters of the internal area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

The metal frame is more used for fixing drywall, as it is heavier. If a metal frame is used, corrugated PVC pipes should be used to lay the wiring cables to protect the wire braid from the sharp edges of the metal frame and increase fire safety.

To perform the work, we prepare the tools:

perforator or drill;
hacksaw;
construction miter box;
sharp knife;
roulette;
building level;
a hammer.

We mark the walls and assemble the frame - how to get started?

Depending on the direction of finishing, the crate can be mounted vertically or horizontally; accordingly, we apply markings. Since we will install a decorative PVC plinth at the junction of the ceiling and the slabs, we pre-drill holes for dowels under the ceiling with a puncher or drill to install the strips on which we will mount the plinth. Similarly, we make holes for attaching corner strips. Before installing the frame, you need to consider where hanging cabinets, shelves or other decorative elements will hang. In these places we fasten additional bars horizontally. Before installation, we treat wooden parts with antiseptic agents.

In order to avoid distortions, which will give the wall an unsightly appearance, we fasten the crate, strictly observing horizontality and verticality with the help of a level. The slats of the frame must lie in the same plane. In order not to try on each rail, we make markings on the wall.

We place the bottom row 1-2 cm above the floor level. We make a mark on the wall with a pencil and draw a horizontal line along the entire perimeter using the level. We draw the same horizontal line under the ceiling or mark the edge of the finish if the finish is not up to the ceiling. Next, for the horizontal fastening of the frame, we measure 40–50 cm from the lower horizontal line and draw a new line parallel to it along the perimeter. Similarly, we apply parallel horizontal lines to the ceiling.

We fix the panels to the frame perpendicularly. If it is necessary to fix the plastic horizontally, we assemble a vertical frame. To do this, we apply the first line on the wall from ceiling to floor, measuring the distance from the corner, using a plumb line or level. Then we make markings for the second corner. Between the corners we draw the remaining parallel lines with a step of 50 cm.

Professionals recommend marking walls not only with a level and marks, but also using an ordinary rope of small thickness for quick marking. It is done simply. We paint the rope with colored crayons, apply it to the wall, colored marks from the chalk will remain at the points of contact. This method will speed up the marking and save time on preparatory work.

According to the marking at a distance of half a meter from each other, we drill holes for the dowels, then we apply the rails and fix them on the wall with fixing material. If the walls are uneven, level the plane of the frame with wooden wedges. If necessary, hide the wiring under the trim. To do this, we drill holes in the wall, with the help of clamps we fix the wires on the wall. We pay attention that they do not protrude beyond the plane of the frame.

Step by step installation of plastic panels

If it is necessary to insulate the walls, we put a heater between the bars of the frame. In this case, it should be taken into account that we take the cross section of the beam, respectively, with the thickness of the heat insulator. As a heat-insulating material, you can use polystyrene plates, which we fasten with an adhesive solution, additionally fixing them with special dowels - "fungi". Then, on top of the crate with insulation, we attach a vapor barrier film.

We start the installation of PVC panels on the wall from the corner where we fix the starting bar. Insert the crest of the first plastic lamella into the groove of this plank. If necessary, we adjust the plastic elements in length by cutting them with a hacksaw. From the back side, we fix the panel on the frame using a stapler with special brackets. Next, we install the second panel in the groove of the first, we make sure that the elements are in close contact. Then securely fix them to the crate. For maximum sealing, silicone is applied to the joints before installation.

By analogy, we fasten the remaining lamellas. We insert the last panel into the groove of the pre-installed finishing strip. If the width of the lamella is too large, cut it to the required size, but not more than a third of the width. Under the sockets and switches in the panels, we pre-cut holes of appropriate sizes. After installing the lamellas, we close the holes with boxes.

When the walls are completely sheathed, they should present a monolithic, even surface without gaps along the seams and perimeter. To do this, we install special plastic moldings at the seams, in the corners and at the joints. Thanks to their design, the edges of the panels can be inserted from both sides, which makes the corners more visually appealing.

When decorating walls with PVC slabs with your own hands, you should adhere to the following rules:

If we attach the lamellas to the frame, we do not level the surface of the walls to an ideal state, we eliminate only significant defects. This makes it possible to save on finishing work.
We fix the wooden crate only with the help of galvanized dowels and self-tapping screws.
The first trim elements must be perfectly aligned, because they will align the rest of the panels. If the first panel is installed crookedly, the entire skin will be uneven.
Materials before installation must lie down. If sheathing work is carried out in the summer season, the plastic is kept at room temperature for 12 hours. In winter, we increase this period to two days if the material was stored at a temperature of -10 degrees.
If PVC lamellas are installed in a room with high humidity, we make ventilation cuts in the frame.
It is necessary to unpack the panels very carefully, as they are unstable to mechanical damage. We take out the lamellas from the packaging by the edge and only separately.
To make the cuts neat, a hacksaw should be used with fine teeth, it is better to take a hacksaw for metal.
When installing panels with a pattern, we start the sheathing from the left corner, moving sequentially to the right.

The quality of the interior decoration with plastic plates depends on the evenness of the installation of the frame. The slats should be adjusted as tightly as possible, then the surface will look perfectly flat. If you follow the recommendations, the sheathing will be neat and will last a long time, making the premises attractive and cozy.