The technology of laying fiberboard on a wooden floor surface. Sheathing the floor with hardboard sheets Orgalit on a wooden floor

Fibreboard is made from wood fibers that are bonded to each other through heat and pressure. The attachment of the fibers to each other is achieved through bonding and the wood's own adhesion properties. The fibers on the surface layer of the board are often coarser than those in the middle layer. This gives the slab an even and compact surface. Glue and other additives can be used to improve the properties of the board. The main raw material for fiber board is wood fiber, and the amount of additives is usually less than 1%.

The scope of the fiberboard is very wide.

Paraffin is commonly used as a water repellent adhesive. Starch, artificial resin and hardening oil are used as binders to increase strength.

The scope of its application is quite wide: from the use as the back side of furniture, arches and to floors in the performance of repair work and in the decoration of new premises.

Fiberboard is an environmentally friendly material

Coating advantages and disadvantages

The advantage is the evenness and smoothness of the sheet. Because of what it is used to level the floor of fiberboard in old buildings and in new construction. It can act as the base itself or be laid on the surface of a dilapidated and in need of replacement coating, hiding its irregularities and defects. This is also practical - there is no need to dismantle the old floor, which is used as the basis for a new one.

Fiberboard has its advantages and disadvantages.

Of great importance is the ease and speed of installation work due to the ease of processing and cutting, packing, low weight, which even one specialist can handle with laying. And also the possession of a moderate price for many buyers, durability, good sound insulation, high strength of the material. It withstands loads very well due to the dense structure of the pressed wood material, which allows it to withstand mechanical stress and place massive pieces of furniture on a seemingly fragile hardboard floor. Coating with water-repellent varnishes or paints, along with synthetic additives and antiseptics added to the composition, give the boards superior qualities in comparison with natural wood floors.

Fiberboard sheets are characterized by plasticity, due to which they retain their original properties under conditions of temperature changes while maintaining moderate humidity.

It is worth noting the ecological composition of the fiberboard flooring material, as a result of which it can be laid in rooms where allergy sufferers live.

Fiberboard sheets are very plastic and durable

IMPORTANT!

The special composition of the material, high density and air permeability are the reasons why fiberboards do not change their shape and are therefore able to effectively insulate buildings for more than 80 years.
In the unlikely event of a fire, the surfaces of the fibreboards slow down the rate of fire propagation through the structure - this is class E flammability. This results in increased fire resistance for the entire building structure.

The disadvantages of fiberboard on the floor are as follows: a simple texture for most interiors, combustibility, brittleness when bending the canvas, in the absence of proper processing it is absolutely not moisture resistant (deforms, swells), the surface without a paint layer is erased in short time, which immediately manifests itself when moving cabinets, sofas, tables, chairs and similar loads.

Fiberboard sheets can last 80 years if properly maintained

How to choose fiberboard for the floor wisely

First of all, it is necessary to get an idea about the nature of the future loads on the floor to be covered, the conditions of dampness or dryness and the regime of low, normal or high temperatures.

The most commonly used size for most floors is 1.7 m x 2.745 m per slab with a thickness of 3 - 3.2 mm. Moisture-resistant boards with oil impregnation 6 mm thick are also produced, which are advisable to lay on the floors of the first floor and in wet rooms.

Picking up fiberboard sheets for specific purposes is not difficult

By brand, they are divided into M - soft sheets Fiberboard, T - hard, ST - super hard with an unpainted or painted front layer. Based on the purpose of the rooms, choose plates of a suitable brand.

Harder boards (hardboard) are used as a substrate for laminate (laminated flooring), parquet or parquet board, linoleum and for better thermal and sound insulation of the floor. In addition to flooring, such fiberboard sheets are used for the installation of intra-apartment partitions, wall cladding, and for lining panel systems.

Give preference to trusted manufacturers

Particle board boards can be painted and laminated. All general products intended for interior painting of wooden surfaces are suitable for painting boards.

In the event that the floor is leveled with subsequent painting, it will be right to choose special decorative sheets Fiberboard, which, like parquet, can be laid out in patterns.

When buying floor tiles, you should pay attention to the fact that all selected canvases are even, have the same surface appearance, dimensions and thickness. When purchasing this material, it is important to consider the characteristics of the bars. They must be of coniferous wood of the second or third quality grade, dry, treated with special fire and bioprotective compounds, without visible large knots, fungi and other similar defects. However, small cracks in the wood are acceptable. If mold and fungi are found, these areas are cleaned and a fungicidal solution is applied on top of them to prevent damage to the new coating.

During transport and storage, boards must be protected from dryness and moisture, dirt, sunlight, contact with the ground, dents and scratches. Fiberboard is stored face down on a flat base. If necessary, supporting timber is used at intervals of 0.5 meters.

When transporting, make sure that the plates are not damaged.

Laying fiberboard on a wooden floor: installation features

When constructing a floor that provides for laying out a log, it is required to level the surface with a cement-sand screed or pour a self-leveling mixture with a layer thickness of approximately 50 mm. It is poured onto the prepared swept and washed base building sand medium size and then the liquid solution is poured, evenly distributed over the surface.

After the preparation has hardened, in increments of about 20-40 cm, wooden logs are laid, hiding the slope, level difference and other defects. In order for the logs to lie in the same plane, chipboard linings are used. Then the fiberboard is laid.

Before laying the slabs, prepare the subfloor

Before laying fiberboard on the subfloor, preparatory work. First you need to bring the sheets into the room so that they stay there for two or three days. Or, with a lack of time, each slab can be processed with reverse side with a cotton swab or brush slightly moistened with water, fold the back sides and leave for one day. Then they carefully grind (if there are irregularities), clean, dry, remove dust and apply a primer, which should dry for eight to twelve hours, on wooden base.

How to lay fiberboard on a wooden floor? It is required to outline the starting point for laying the first slab, fixing it in several places. Usually, this is the corner by the window. Then it is recommended to check the pre-installation dry coincidence of dimensions and edges. If necessary, the extreme sheets are cut to fit the outlines of the room and openings. It is important to pay attention to leave gaps of four to six millimeters from the wall surface for possible expansion of the floor covering with increasing temperature.

Before laying, the slabs must be measured and cut.

When the base is prepared, the substrate under the fiberboard is laid on the wooden floor made of polyethylene film.

Glue is applied to the entire surface of each sheet or bituminous mastic and fades. Let it soak for half an hour. A thin layer of glue or mastic is also evenly distributed on the floor.

The laying of fiberboard is carried out as follows: the first layer of slabs is laid on the base. If such a need arises, how to lay the second and third layers of boards on the wooden floor, their further laying is carried out. Then the resulting coating is fixed, for which there are three main types of fasteners:

furniture stapler staples 12-14 mm wide;
nails with a closed head with a diameter of 1 to 1.5 mm and a length of 20 to 25 mm;
self-tapping screws with a countersunk head with a diameter of about 3 mm and a length of 25 to 35 mm.

The cracks formed during the installation process are puttied with special putties to deform the seams, after drying which it is worth sanding uneven areas with sandpaper or using grinder. Also remove any remaining adhesive that has come out between the sheets.

Cracks that form during operation can be puttied

Slab cutting process

Most often, the parameters of the plates do not fully correspond to the room, which causes the need for their trimming. To do this, you can use the following cutting equipment:

a circular saw with a laser guide, equipped with discs for sawing wood panels;
"Bulgarian" with preliminary application of precise markings;
tool for cutting wood, roofing material, film, etc.;
electric jigsaw with wood saw;
metal scissors.

There are several ways to cut a slab

To accurately cut holes for engineering Communication, wall protrusions or niches for heating radiators, it is best to use a sharp knife, a universal tool or a jigsaw.

Cut off much more than required, parts of the sheets can be hidden under the plinth, and the excess is unlikely to be cut off.

With a lack of experience, you can practice on an unnecessary piece and prepare cardboard templates in advance, according to which the markings will be transferred to the surface.

Retailers, wholesalers or supermarkets may offer slicing services facing materials, including fibreboard and chipboard, and it is necessary to provide an accurate plan of the rooms. Cutting with a machine allows you to get a better edge. And the fitting of the recesses for the pipelines will have to be done independently.

The hardboard floor can be made independently if you follow the recommendations

If the fibreboards are intact and dry, they can be reused in certain cases. Reuse is the most popular in relation to the "recycling" of fibreboard.

Video: We lay fiberboard on the floor

Video: Types of wood boards

The most practical and in demand is linoleum flooring.

The material does not get wet, it is cheaper than fashionable counterparts, for example, parquet or laminate, and installation does not cause any particular difficulties.

To properly equip the floor, let's look at how to lay linoleum on fiberboard on our own.

The service life of linoleum depends on how the base is prepared.

The floor material has a flexible and soft structure.

Laying it on an uneven base will immediately spoil the aesthetic appearance of the floors.

The new coverage will display all the depressions and projections of the draft.

Some owners neglect the process of preparing the base, trying to hide its defects under the linoleum of a thicker structure. This is a kind of self-deception.

The floor covering will hide the flaws for a short time. In the process of use, the structure of linoleum will begin to settle. First, all the defects of the subfloor will be displayed on the surface, and then in these places the linoleum will simply begin to crack.

You can make a perfectly flat draft floor with fiberboard sheets. This is the most economical and simple. The cost of fiberboard is small, and it can be laid on any surface of the base, as long as it is even.

Preparation of fiberboard

Fiberboard boards are very sensitive to moisture and under its influence can change their appearance. In general, it is impossible to cover the floors of wet rooms with fiberboard under linoleum, since peculiar swellings will appear on them.

For dry rooms and with medium humidity fiberboard before you need to prepare:

If the laying of fiberboard will take place in a dry, unheated room, the sheets on the back side must be slightly moistened with water. This can be done with a wide brush or roller. Fiberboard is stacked on top of each other and kept for two days. Under their weight, the sheets will level out, acquiring a marketable appearance.
These procedures can be avoided in a dry, constantly heated room. Here it is enough to simply fold the sheets in a pile for two days.
For a room with medium humidity, fiberboard is protected by drying oil. It penetrates deep into the structure of the slab, creating a moisture-repellent barrier.

This mandatory preparation process will prevent the slabs from swelling under the linoleum. During the leveling of the slabs, a load can be placed on top of the stack.

Laying fiberboard on a concrete base

Laying fiberboard on a wooden base

The wooden floor from the board is also not the best foundation under linoleum. No matter how it is leveled, over time the boards will sag, creating protrusions at the joints. Laid on top of the fiberboard boards will smooth out all the bumps, creating an ideal surface for linoleum.

Before laying the slabs, the wooden base is carefully prepared. Existing rotten boards are replaced with new ones. Further, it is desirable to process the base with a grinder.

She will clean up all the flaws. The flat floor is treated with an antiseptic and after complete drying start laying fiberboard.

The plates are laid in a similar way from the corner of the room, observing the gaps from the wall. Only they are fixed not with glue, but with nails or screws.

A prerequisite is that their hats must be buried in the surface of the plate, otherwise protrusions will be visible on the linoleum. The fastening step is 100–150 mm.

Finishing the subfloor with fiberboard

When all fiberboards are fixed to the base, it is necessary to make the final surface finish. Joints were necessarily formed between the laid ones.

They must be carefully sanded with sandpaper, remove all dust and putty acrylic sealant or any other wood putty. Areas with dried putty must be sanded again. Remaining dust is best removed with a vacuum cleaner.

On this, the subfloor with fiberboard is ready for laying linoleum and you can proceed to the next, main, stage of installing the floor covering.

Preparing linoleum for laying

Before the flooring, it is necessary that the linoleum lay in the unfolded state for at least three days. The structure of the material will get used to the temperature of the room, becoming softer and more pliable for further work.

You can determine the readiness of linoleum for smoothing all the waves on its surface. Let's take a look at the detailed steps showing how to lay linoleum on a hardboard floor in different rooms apartments.

Fitting linoleum

The linoleum sheet must be laid out in the room so that its sides overlap with the walls. If a large room requires laying several pieces, they must be combined according to the pattern.

It is very important that there are no gaps at the connecting joints. In other words, before laying linoleum, it is necessary to position it.

The order of fitting depends on the room, the number of sheets to be laid and the shape of the pattern:

It is desirable to cover the floor of a small room with a single sheet of linoleum. It is rolled out from the edge of one of the walls, leaving a gap of no more than 3 mm. On the remaining three walls, the sheet should go a little with the launch. Sometimes there are uneven rooms with different distances between the walls. Here you will have to lay out the linoleum overlap on all four walls.
A large floor area is usually covered with several pieces of linoleum. Naturally, there will be joints in the middle of the room. Laying sheets start from the joints, making an accurate fit. After that, the rolls are rolled further along the floor, making small launches on all the walls. When laying several sheets, you should try to arrange them so that the joints do not fall into places with frequent people. For example, there is such a place in the kitchen near the gas stove or by the sofa in front of the TV. Constant mechanical impact from the feet will eventually lead to flaking of the edges of the floor covering.
Laying several pieces of coating brings the following problem related to the alignment of the pattern. The front side of the linoleum is decorated with various patterns. Not combining them in a visible place will spoil the aesthetic appearance of the interior of the room. The process of combining involves shifting the pieces relative to each other until a positive result is obtained. The first to combine patterns at the joints in the middle of the room. If the floor of the adjacent room is also covered with linoleum or another coating with a similar pattern, you will need to match the ornament in the doorway as much as possible.
Now we need to talk about the shape of the pattern itself. A small pattern without clear straight lines will look good in any position. But the linoleum ornament, imitating tiles or parquet, has many even, clearly defined lines. They should lie parallel to the walls. If such a pattern is placed at any angle, the intersection of the walls will be created. To give the lines the right direction, turning the pieces of the coating counterclockwise or clockwise will help.
Many rooms have ledges and niches that need to be worked around when laying the flooring. The niche is usually located at front door or under a window. A ledge can be, for example, a box installed from floor to ceiling, covering home communications.
With a protrusion, things are easier. It is enough to bend the edge of the linoleum and, under the ruler, draw a projection of the protrusion from the back with a pencil, observing the exact dimensions. Next, it remains to cut out an unnecessary fragment and lay the cut linoleum around the ledge.
A cutout for a niche is performed in approximately the same way, only a non-marked fragment is cut out on linoleum, but pieces extending from it are cut off. Here we must not make a mistake, making an overlap on . It should be slightly more than the depth of the niche. It is better to take with a margin, because you can always cut off the excess. As in the previous case, linoleum is folded over for marking. The next step is to cut off the outgoing pieces from the marked fragment, and cover the niche with the remaining protrusion.
If the room requires cutting two fragments, for example, at the front door and opposite the standing window, then work starts from the door. The first is to fit the sheet to cover the door niche, and the next to close the niche under the window. When located opposite the door instead of the ledge niche, the order of fitting remains the same.

A quality fit must meet all of the above requirements, and only then can you start cutting off excess coverage areas.

Trimming the edges

Trimming of excess edges is performed around the entire perimeter. To do this, the edge of the sheet is bent so that it lies close to the wall. Pressing the fold point with a long ruler or rail, cut through the linoleum with a sharp knife.

As an option without a ruler, linoleum can be cut through the wall. This is especially true for apartments of old buildings, where one can only dream of the evenness of the walls. Such trimming will adjust the coating exactly to the shape of the wall, leaving no gaps.

And yet, the first pruning is better to do not end-to-end, but with a margin. It is better to cut it off a second time later than to think about how to get rid of the resulting gap.

Linoleum sticker and care

This will give a 100% guarantee that over time the floor covering will not change its shape with the formation of bubbles and various stretched areas.

Today construction stores offer a huge selection of mastics and adhesive compositions for linoleum. They are all different and require the right selection.

Neglecting this will affect the quality of fixing the sheet to the surface of the fiberboard. For example, linoleum can be both on an insulated base and without it. Therefore, the mastic must match the given floor covering.

On a dust-free and primed base, the rolled sheet is rolled up. This is done from both sides to about the middle of the sheet. Moving from the roll towards the wall, the base is lubricated with an adhesive.

Each manufacturer on the packaging indicates the recommended thickness of the adhesive. It is more convenient to apply it with a spatula with a serrated edge. The thickness of the applied layer depends on the height of the teeth, therefore, empirically, you can choose the optimally convenient one for yourself.

On a greased base, one side of the roll is slowly rolled out. As it is rolled out, linoleum is rolled with a roller in the direction from the center to the wall. This is necessary to remove air.

Otherwise, the coating will turn out to be bubbles. Having rolled out one side of the roll, glue the second half in the same way. In the final, it remains to install the plinth.

Joint joints for adhesive laying of linoleum

If in a simple laying method the joints are connected with double-sided tape, then the adhesive method requires the use of welding. There are two types of joint welding, hot and cold. The choice of type of welding depends on the complexity of the seam and the characteristics of linoleum.

For a complete picture, let's take a closer look at both processes of welding joints:

Hot welding is the most reliable way of fastening seams, and is used only a day after gluing linoleum. It is irreplaceable for a floor covering subject to big mechanical loadings. For its implementation, special equipment will be required, consisting of a compressor and a burner. As a surfacing, special rods of various profiles are used. Under influence high temperature the rod straightens out, filling the gaps of the joints.
Cold welding does without special equipment, which is convenient for domestic use. In other words, it's just glue. It has a different consistency, which is indicated by the letter designation on the package. Glue marked A is very liquid. It is used for gluing the joints of recently laid sheets. Marking C indicates a thick adhesive consistency. They fasten the edges of the old linoleum, at the joints of which large gaps have formed over time.

Linoleum is laid on this. It remains to properly care for it so that the floor covering lasts as long as possible.

Linoleum Care

To be able to properly care for the linoleum coating, you need to know the negative factors that affect it:

bright light and ultraviolet radiation leads to fading of the coloring composition. The coating becomes dull.
Frequent and sudden changes in temperature will cause cracking of the material.
The constant presence of moisture will lead to the formation. It is especially bad if moisture got under the linoleum. Then the fiberboard will rot and even the entire wooden base.
Linoleum is sensitive to mechanical stress. Traces from the legs of heavy furniture or sharp heels remain visible for a long time.
The structure of linoleum is flammable. From contact with a hot object, the material will begin to melt and may even catch fire.
Any coloring matter is quickly absorbed, and it will be difficult to remove it, and sometimes, in general, it is impossible.

Cleaning a floor covered with linoleum begins with removing dust with a vacuum cleaner, and then proceeding to wet wiping with warm and clean water. It is unacceptable to use alcohol-containing products, soda and dishwashing liquid.

Compliance with the technology of laying linoleum on fiberboard and proper care behind the floor covering will increase its service life.

Errors when laying linoleum are presented in the video:

October 20, 2016
Specialization: master in construction drywall constructions, finishing works oh and laying floor coverings. Installation of door and window blocks, facade finishing, installation of electrics, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

If you think that filing a ceiling is a complicated and tedious process, then I will tell you how to deal with it easily and quickly. Yes, you can do without a few assistants who hold the sheet at arm's length while you screw it on. You can attract a teenager or any other person as assistants, and he is needed in order to hold the material and substitute support at some moments, at other times you can work on your own and do an excellent job with the installation.

Necessary materials and tools for work

I used the following set of materials:

materials	Description
fiberboard	This material allows you to prepare the ceiling for further finishing, and in country and country houses Fiberboard is often used as a finishing coat. After fixing, it is enough to paint it, and this is the end of the job, which is very quick and easy.
Galvanized nails	Sheets are attached with their help, I use the 3x25 or 3x30 option, this is quite enough for secure fixation material. The nails have an oversized head, which is also important, as this allows you to more reliably press the fiberboard to the surface
Several boards	These can be unedged options that you will find at home with a thickness of 25 mm or more. The boards will be used to build the lift, so no special requirements to them no
Wood screws	Ordinary black self-tapping screws with a large pitch 41 or 45 mm long, if the boards are thicker than 25 mm, then you can take longer options. These hardware will be used to assemble the lift and to attach it to the wall.

From the tool we need a few simple tools:

screwdriver- I said, I say and I will say that this power tool should be available to any person who at least occasionally makes minor repairs at home. If you like to craft, make repairs or build a house from scratch, then you simply cannot do without a screwdriver;
A hacksaw is great for cutting fiberboard with small tooth , with its help, the quality of sawing will be excellent. And don't worry that you will get very tired - the material is not very hard and cuts well. If you have a jigsaw on hand, then you can use it, just put the blade for a clean cut (T101B);
Nails are driven in with a hammer, an option weighing 400-500 grams is suitable for work, waving a kilogram striker is not a good idea;
For measurements, we can not do without a tape measure, the minimum length of which should not be less than the size of the fiberboard. Marking is done with a pencil, any one will do, as long as it is sharply sharpened and draws well on the material.

Description of the workflow

I will talk about all the work in the order in which they are carried out, if the issue of ceiling lining is relevant for you, then just repeat all the steps, and even if you hold the screwdriver in your hands for the first time, you can achieve an excellent result.

Lift construction

This design greatly simplifies life when lining the ceiling, I used to involve at least two assistants in the work. The work was carried out in difficult conditions: two people hold a sheet of material on the ceiling, and I, with a hammer in my hands and a dozen nails in my mouth, tried to quickly nail the fiberboard so that the assistants' hands would not go numb. Because of the haste, the quality of work suffered, and a couple of times we dropped the sheet and damaged it.

In order to work slowly and ensure perfect quality, we need to assemble a simple design, the diagram of which is shown below. It consists of the following parts:

You need 4 longitudinal elements, the length of two wall boards should be slightly less than the height of the room, and the length of the rising part for convenience is made another 3-5 cm shorter. The main requirement for boards is strength, but you should not take too thick lumber either, since the lift will weigh a lot;
The width of the structure should be 20-30 cm less than the width of the sheets. This is necessary in order to be able to knock the material on the sides without any interference. Based on this, transverse elements are cut, which can be 2-3 pieces, depending on the height of the system and the boards used;
The crossbars are screwed with self-tapping screws, after which the two wings must be connected to each other with loops. Any options that are at hand will do, if there is nothing, then buy the cheapest products at the hardware store, they will cost you 100 rubles. It is best to fasten the loops with the same self-tapping screws.

main stage

Now that we have everything we need, we can begin work. Of course, it is assumed that all preparatory operations have been completed - the ceiling is hemmed with a board, since we need a base on which our material will be attached.

The workflow looks like this:

First of all, you need to attach the lift in the required place, most often the work starts from the corner of the room, so it is placed there. Fixing the structure is very simple: 4 self-tapping screws are screwed in, this is quite enough to ensure reliability;

The lift is more suitable for wooden and gas silicate structures, since it is difficult to screw in a self-tapping screw, and drilling a bunch of holes is not a good idea.

Do not forget to check how the lift works, it should be easy to rise and fall, the structural elements should not abut anywhere;

Now you need to prepare the sheet, if cutting is not needed, then this step can be skipped, but if you need to fit the element, you will have to take measurements, and then mark the fiberboard. Here you need to have a long level or even rail on hand to draw lines along which sawing will subsequently be carried out;

Sawing is done carefully, if you work with a hacksaw, then you can take short breaks to rest, and if you use a jigsaw, then the main thing is to clearly follow the line and guide the tool along it;
The sheet prepared in this way is placed on our lift - carefully place it and align, after which the structure can be lifted;

Then the lift rises to the end, but you should not press the sheet to the ceiling, there should be a small gap. The position of the structure is fixed by a support of the desired height, for this you can adapt a board, a sewer pipe, a cardboard sleeve from floor coverings;

Then you need to adjust the position of the fiberboard and set it straight. There is nothing complicated here: just move the sheet so that it takes the desired position;
Then you can proceed to fastening, carnations are taken and nailed in increments of about 15-18 cm and a couple of centimeters indented from the edge. Initially, you can not nail all the cloves - when the sheet is held securely, you can remove the lift and transfer it to a new place, and it is easier to complete the final fixation without it;

Further work is carried out in a similar way: the sheets are cut, lifted, after which all joints are combined and fiberboard can be fixed.

Carnations in adjacent sheets should be opposite each other, so the joints will be much neater.

Conclusion

You can use this technology not only for fiberboard, but also for chipboard, plywood, oriented strand board, drywall and other sheet materials. This method makes the work not only easier, but also safer, the main thing is to securely install the support.

Laying wood fiber boards (HDF) on the floor

Fibreboard (Fibreboard) is a popular finishing material used in many areas of construction and renovation of premises. Very often fiberboard is used for subfloor installation. It is noteworthy that they can be laid on almost any surface. The main thing is that certain conditions are observed, and then these sheets can be laid even on old coatings. In this article, we will just consider the whole process of laying fiberboard on the floor with our own hands.

Price: first of all, what distinguishes fiberboard rough floors from other options is the cost of materials and installation work. This flooring is one of the most budgetary.
Labor intensity: the process of mounting the plates is quite simple. The only thing that may arise is some difficulties when creating a lag for the floor: they must be accurately placed over the entire surface. But we will consider all this further.
Environmentally friendly: Fibreboard contains wood at its core - a natural material - so it can be used for flooring in residential premises.
Durability: the subfloor made of this material will turn out to be quite strong and durable, unless, of course, it is subjected to excessive loads and protected from direct exposure to water.

Disadvantages of hardboard floors

Environmental friendliness: this item refers to those stoves that were purchased more than 20 years ago and were stored somewhere in your garage. Previously, fiberboard manufacturing technology was different, in particular, not entirely safe substances were used to glue the fibers of the material. Therefore, it is not recommended to use such plates for flooring at home.
Moisture resistance: despite the fact that fiberboard boards tolerate water exposure much better than chipboard sheets or GKL, however, it is better not to lay them in rooms with high humidity. Otherwise, there is a high probability of deformation of the coating. In such rooms, it is preferable to lay slabs of aquapanel, gypsum fiber or moisture-resistant plywood.
Fire resistance: such a floor covering will ignite very quickly in case of fire.
Wear resistance: as a rule, it is necessary to apply a finishing floor covering over fiberboard, otherwise their surface will quickly wear out and wipe. And the material itself does not differ in any special appearance.

Hardboard floor installation technology

1. Preparatory work

Fiberboard boards are used to level the surface with small level differences (up to 1 cm). If the base of the floor has more significant irregularities, then they must either be eliminated (for example, by pouring a leveling mixture), or the fiberboard should be laid on the logs.

In any case, all work must begin with an inspection of the floor surface. If damage such as mold or fungus is observed on it, then they must be eliminated with a special antiseptic primer.

Next, you should check the old flooring. If it is in good condition, that is, the boards on the floor do not creak, the surface does not have large drops, and the coating itself has a solid appearance, then fiberboard can be laid directly on the old finish without removing it. Otherwise, the floor is cleared of everything unnecessary, right down to the base.

Further work will depend on the choice of method fiberboard installation sheets. If they will be laid on glue, then the surface of the floor base must be carefully primed and wait until it is completely dry (6-8 hours). If there are already old logs on the floor, then they only need to be inspected and, if necessary, repaired (link).

Well, if you decide to make lags from scratch, then proceed to the next paragraph.

2. Installation of a log for a floor made of fiberboard

In fact, the logs for any sheets of wood are stacked in a similar way. To begin with, the size of the fiberboard sheets used is determined, after which markings are made on the entire surface of the floor for the installation sites of the lag.

As a rule, the lag is taken as a material for the device. wooden blocks that are attached directly to the base. To put them on the same level, you can use various linings, for example, from chipboard. About what size to take the bars, how to attach them to the floor, and what should be the marking of the surface, you can find out from the article “Installing a lag for the floor”.

After everything is mounted, you can proceed to the flooring of fiberboard sheets.

3. Laying fiberboard on the floor

To create a subfloor, it is worth using plates with a thickness of at least 6 mm. Before installation, all material must be left for 48 hours in the room. And for better acclimatization of their fiberboard back side can be moistened warm water, but in a small amount (no more than 0.7 liters per 1 m2). For these purposes, you can use a regular brush.

Before you start laying fiberboard on the floor, you should read a number of recommendations:

Firstly, it is best to start installation from the corner opposite to the entrance to the room.
Secondly, when laying sheets, it is necessary to leave gaps of 5-10 mm from the walls. This is required to form a "temperature" seam. Subsequently, it can be closed with a floor plinth.

3.1. Method 1: attaching fiberboard to logs

First, the sheet is laid on the logs and aligned so that all edges fall on the middle of the bars. After that, the fiberboard is fixed to the logs with the help of nails, screws or wood screws about 30-40 mm long and 2.5-3.0 mm in diameter. In this case, the fastening pitch should be 80-100 mm along the edges of the sheet, and 120-150 mm in the central part.

The next plate is also first aligned, then tightly joined to the first, and then nailed to the joists. The seam between the sheets should be no more than 2 mm. The entire range of fiberboard is mounted in the same way.

When laying the next row of fiberboard, it is necessary to offset the joints of the sheets by 30-40 cm relative to the previous row. This will give greater strength to the entire floor, and allow more even distribution of the load.

During the installation of the plates, there will definitely be a need for trimming them. This is done quite simply with a hacksaw, jigsaw or hand saw. To create holes in fiberboard, for example, under pipes, cuts can be made with an ordinary sharp knife. For more complex cutting, you can first make a template from cardboard or paper, and then cut the sheet along it.

3.2. Method 2: attaching fiberboard to glue

Glue can be used as fasteners for fiberboard to the floor base. It is applied and leveled over the entire surface of the sheet, after which the plate must be left for 20-30 minutes. To ensure greater durability of the coating, the adhesive should also be applied to the pre-primed subfloor.

Next, the sheet is attached to the surface, after which it is pressed against the canvas. After laying each fiberboard, do not forget to check its horizontalness and evenness. The flooring of two adjacent rows, and trimming of the extreme sheets is carried out in the same way as in paragraph 3.1.

4. Final work

Finishing the floor from fiberboard is as follows. First, you need to carefully examine all the seams: the remnants of the glue that has come out must be removed with a rag, and in those places where the gap between the sheets turned out to be too large (more than 2-3 mm), it should be sealed with putty. To increase the strength of the connection of the plates, their joints can be glued with reinforcing tape.

Further work on grinding and (or) priming the surface of the subfloor may follow, but these operations are not mandatory. Everything will depend mainly on the finish that you are going to apply over the fiberboard. And this can be painting, and laying parquet or laminate, and linoleum or carpet flooring, and many other options that you can learn about on the pages of our website.

This completes all the work on laying fiberboard on the floor with your own hands.

Fiberboard on a wooden floor: choice and installation technology

The main features of fiberboard
Fiberboard fixing
Waterproofing
Fixing to concrete floor
Fastening to a wooden floor
Preparing for styling
Mounting

The practice of laying linoleum on fiberboard has been going on for more than a dozen years. Such a solution is especially attractive, as it is the most optimal way to level surface irregularities. Today there are other methods, but still many are interested in how to properly put linoleum on fiberboard.

One of the main requirements for the procedure for laying linoleum is a flat base.

This is exactly what fiberboards are used for, but they are also one of the additions to floor insulation in private homes. Also high efficiency the solution also shows on the first floors of high-rise buildings, where many people lay fiberboard on the floor under linoleum.

The main features of fiberboard

Before you learn how to lay linoleum on fiberboard, you should know a couple of features this material to help you understand the process better:

For the manufacture of fiberboard, chopped wood, paraffin, and rosin are used.
Compared to chipboard or chipboard the material is much more durable, but at the same time inferior in strength.
Fiberboard is produced in slabs 1.2-2.7 m long, 1-1.8 m wide and 2.5 to 6 mm thick.
Laying fiberboard under linoleum on a concrete floor is one of the most durable options, but analogues based on chipboard will be cheaper.

It would be wise to select sheets of the maximum available sizes for work. In this case, the joints between them will be minimal amount, and this, in turn, will result in an increase in the strength and reliability of the floor covering.

A few words about Alternative option. Chipboard also lends itself perfectly to processing, its ends can always be cut, and it lends itself to sawing and cutting just perfectly. An important point: in the case of chipboard, cutting should be used.

In this case, a shoe knife is used, and as a support, a metal ruler or wooden lath. This allows you to get the most even line.

Fiberboard fixing

Today, many people use special glue for linoleum on fiberboard (you can find in stores huge assortment than gluing linoleum to fiberboard), however, it will be much easier to nail the material to wooden floor using ordinary small carnations of 15 mm.

Installation is quite simple and is unlikely to cause difficulties even for non-professionals.

Waterproofing

One of the most important points in the laying of fiber boards is high-quality waterproofing. because of characteristic features the material often warps from contact with moisture. A small flood is enough for the floor to noticeably move in six months. In order to avoid such troubles, waterproofing is used. For its purposes, the floor should be thoroughly dried after each stage of work, the material must be profiled, and polyethylene should be laid under the fiberboard sheets.

In the latter case, laying is carried out with an overlap of 5-10 cm.

At the end of the process, the incised material should be allowed to rest. This should be done for about 4 days - during this time the sheets should be completely aligned.

Upon completion of the procedure, you can proceed to their direct attachment. Depending on the base of the floor, the procedure has its own nuances.

Fixing to concrete floor

For fastening, boiled drying oil or tar is used. The first option is faster, but subsequently problems may arise, since it is rather problematic to remove drying oil stuck to the floor.

As an alternative, fiberboard under linoleum can also be attached to a concrete floor using dowels.

This approach has an obvious advantage - if necessary, dismantling will be simple.

However, with this approach, additional irregularities will be created on the plates, which will eventually appear on linoleum. To avoid this, you should make a small recess in the fiberboard in advance, into which the dowel head will fit.

Irregularities are additionally sealed with putty.

Fastening to a wooden floor

Before you start laying fiberboard under linoleum on a wooden floor, you should first prepare it - level it. All bumps must be processed with a planer, and the pits must be filled with putty.

The plates are attached to the base with self-tapping screws or nails.

Preparing for styling

Now that the flooring is ready, you can prepare for the direct laying of fiberboard on the floor under the linoleum.

It is very important to make sure once again that the joints of the sheets are not bumpy anywhere - otherwise, the bumps should be eliminated - with sandpaper or putty. Today on the Internet you can find great amount photos of similar works, so it will not be difficult. See also: "How to make floor leveling under linoleum - the best way."

Experts recommend moistening the plates a little before starting the process. The calculation of water is 0.5 liters per sq. m., this should be done with a regular paint brush. When finished, it remains to fold the sheets in pairs with the wet sides inward, and then leave them indoors for 48 hours.

Mounting

Despite the apparent simplicity of the operation, there are a number of nuances:

Work should start from the corner, the gap between the fiberboard and the wall is equal to the gap between the coating and the wall.
Nailing or screwing should be done in increments of about 10 cm along the edge. Row spacing should be 15 cm.
Each next fiberboard slab under the linoleum is laid end-to-end.
Plates should be tightly coupled. The only exception is the penultimate one in a row, which is nailed after the last one.
Before cutting the last sheet, you should first draw a line along the edge with the help of a fence, which will allow you to indicate the required gap.
Laying hardboard on the floor

The excess is cut off with a knife, and the plate is mounted.
The rows are joined to each other by the "brickwork" method.

Finally

As you can see from all of the above, preparing the floor for laying linoleum on your own is not a particular problem. Not even the most experienced person, or even a beginner, can cope with this matter, just follow the instructions given. Another question is how to lay linoleum on fiberboard, but this is a topic for another material.

One of better ways to level a wooden floor is to put fiber on it. In this article, we will tell you how to do it right, and what DVP is.

Brief information about fiber board

The idea of using chips left over from sawing wood has been around for a long time.

Already in 1858, the first patent for the production of fibreboard was achieved, and six years later the technology was improved, and modern way the manufacture of this material was developed in 1924. To date, there are three types of such plates:

soft;
hard and semi-hard;
super tough.

Advantages and disadvantages

Sometimes the fibers are compared to wood, which is actually not true, because in fact it is a completely different material with various properties and appearance.

The main benefits of this board are:

durability;
good sound and thermal insulation;
ease of handling and installation;
low weight;
low cost;
good environmental performance.

It should also be noted that some varieties of this material are highly resistant to moisture and are successfully used for external treatments.

As for the disadvantages, there are two on this panel:

low fire resistance;
toxicity of certain varieties that use formaldehyde.

Installation Instructions

Wooden panels can be folded in three ways:

Over existing floor coverings without insulation;
in prisons without heating;
on heating logs.

Laying existing floor coverings without insulation

This procedure begins with the floor surface being thoroughly cleaned of old paint, soil and preparation.

After that the leaves wood panel are fixed in such a way that there are a few millimeters between them. To ensure that the corners of the material are well attached to the substrate, it is better to place heavy objects on them.

Laying without delay

The carrier bars are made of high quality square wooden beam treated with special compounds from the action of microorganisms.

Fibers on the floor - coatings, surface preparation and other shades of work

The distance between them depends on factors such as the cross-section of the carrier, the size of the fiber sheets, and the degree of slope of the soil. The level levels are set at the first paving level.

They are then attached to galvanized poles with nylon rings.

Only after that the boards are installed. Their fixation is made in such a way that all joints are on uneven rods. The size of the gap between the plates should be about 2-3 mm, and the distance between the plates and the walls should be 4-6 millimeters. Nails, bolts or screws are used to fasten the sheets.

Stacking on isolated logs

This procedure is practically the same as a non-isolated installation, but there is a lag during the delay before this procedure begins.

Experienced craftsmen advise:

technological and technological material only in well-ventilated areas or in the open air using personal protective equipment;
well prepare a place for styling;
start stacking from the wall opposite the front door;
if laying on the floor, first replace the flicker;
It is good to dip the covers before decorating the covers on the folding fibreboard.

What is fiberboard and what types of boards exist, the pros and cons of the material, features of use and selection rules, technology for mounting wood sheets on the floor using wooden lag, glue and mastics.

Description and types of fiberboard for the floor

Fibreboard (MDF) is a sheet building material. The front side of the product is smooth, the wrong side has a mesh structure.

The raw materials for the production of fiberboard are sawmill and woodworking waste, firewood, and technological chips. After steaming and grinding it, fibers are formed, which are scraps of woody tissue, individual cells, groups of cells. Fiberboard is obtained from such wood fiber, which is formed in the form of a carpet.

Fiberboard can be of different density. According to this criterion, the plates are divided into the following groups:

Soft fiberboard. Their density is not higher than 350 kg per cubic meter. Such plates have high porosity, low density and are suitable for insulation work, floor and wall insulation. They have low sound and heat conductivity. They are divided into three types: M-1, M-2 and M-3.
Semi-hard fiberboard. They have a density of at least 850 kg per cubic meter. They are used in the manufacture of the back walls of furniture, drawers.
Solid fiberboard. Their density is 800-1000 kg per cubic meter. They have low porosity and are used in the production of panel doors and furniture. There are such types: T, T-S, T-P, T-SP.
Super hard fiberboard. They have a density of at least 950 kg per cubic meter. Their level of porosity is very low. They are used in construction and for finishing works, creating partitions, flooring, in the manufacture of furniture, doors, temporary buildings. They have a smooth front side covered with paint, varnish or primer. In addition, the raw materials in the production of such boards are treated with pectol, which increases the strength of fiberboard by 20%.

Fiberboard sheets have standard factory dimensions. The length is from 1220 to 3000 millimeters. Width - 1220-1700 millimeters. It is quite inconvenient to transport such sheets manually, so you will definitely need a cargo taxi service or a car with a trailer.

As for the thickness, this figure can vary from 2.5 to 40 millimeters, depending on the type of plate and its density. Fiberboard most often comes in thicknesses of 8, 12, 16 and 25 millimeters. These are plates of medium and low density, which, as a rule, are not used for finishing work. Semi-solid slabs come in thicknesses of 6, 8 and 12 millimeters. Solid, as well as superhard fiberboards are produced with a thickness of 2.5, 3.2, 4.5, 6 millimeters. Such materials can be used for walls and floors.

Advantages and disadvantages of hardboard flooring

Often, fiberboard is used as a laying material for a subfloor. They are suitable for installation on almost all surfaces. If you follow certain rules, then it will be possible to easily attach the sheets even to the old coating.

Laying fiberboard on the floor has many advantages:

The low price of this building material. This type of rough flooring is budgetary, and the cost of installation work- minimal.
No time-consuming work - the process of laying the plates is very simple. Some problems may arise when installing a log, but to avoid them, you need to carefully calculate the layout of the boards on the floor.
Absolute environmental friendliness of plates. At the heart of the sheets natural wood. Therefore, they can be used when creating flooring in bedrooms, nurseries and game rooms.
The strength and durability of fiberboard, provided that boards of density corresponding to the loads are used. However, such a coating should not be subjected to heavy loads and not allowed to be directly exposed to water.

To the disadvantages of this building material can include the following:

Low level of fire resistance. At the slightest interaction with fire, the coating will quickly catch fire.
Relatively low wear resistance. To strengthen the boards, a top coat is applied so that they do not wear out and rub off so quickly. Besides finishing adds to the aesthetics of the flooring.
Low level of moisture resistance. Fiberboard sheets tolerate moisture better than, for example, chipboard, but, nevertheless, it is not recommended to install them in the bathroom or in the kitchen, because the coating is quickly deformed. For finishing in such rooms, it is better to use aquapanels, gypsum fiber or moisture-resistant plywood.

Features of the use of wood-based panels

Fiberboard is not recommended to be laid in rooms where water and aggressive chemicals can get on the boards. But today, thanks to the development of technology, they are improving and performance these plates, which helps to significantly expand the scope of the material.

Modern fiberboards on the floor have excellent performance, but it is worth noting some minor limitations when installing indoors:

It can be laid in dry rooms with a low level of humidity (no more than 60%) and temperatures above +10 degrees.
The boards must not be placed on the floor in rooms where they will be subjected to a large force load, such as in shops or warehouses. Under mechanical stress, such a floor covering will quickly collapse.
Wood boards are practically not used as a finishing floor, but they are perfect for a rough floor. Hardboard flooring is an ideal basis for laying parquet, laminate. Also, with the help of these plates, you can level or insulate the floor.

Remember the safety of the use of plates: if you purchased them more than twenty years ago, and before that they were stored in an unintended place, the material can be dangerous. Previously, the technology for manufacturing fiberboard sheets was different. To make the fibers in the boards stick together better, unsafe products were used. Such plates cannot be installed in a residential building!

How to choose the right fiberboard for the floor

To buy quality material, you need to know a few basic criteria for choosing plates:

Be sure to examine the fiberboard certificate for the presence of harmful components. Some manufacturers, in order to improve the indicators of density and moisture resistance, add dangerous components, such as formaldehyde, to the composition of the boards (or rather, to their fibers). The presence of this substance indicates that the material is not intended for laying in residential premises. This is extremely dangerous! It is almost impossible to determine by eye whether this component is present in the panels. Therefore, ask the consultant for documents on building materials. They should clearly indicate that fiberboards have passed sanitary and epidemiological control. When buying, opt for trusted manufacturers.
Carefully inspect each wood panel, it should not have visible manufacturing or shipping damage and defects. Manufacturing defects include oil or paraffin stains, blisters and blisters on the board finish. The only drawback that is allowed on fiberboard sheets is a small spot no larger than two centimeters in size. Remember that in combination with oil or paraffin stains, the panels become highly flammable.
Pay Special attention on the technical specifications material and labeling sheets. So that it can be long time exploit, the thickness and density of wood boards is important. The level of moisture resistance is also important. All fiberboards should be selected according to technical indicators, based on the room in which you will be laying them.

Technology for mounting fiberboard on logs

If you lay wood-based panels on logs, then the floor will turn out to be warmer than when working with screeds. Also, when working with this type of flooring, traces of fiberboard attachment to the joists will be practically invisible.

Preparatory work before laying fiberboard

Before laying fiberboard on the floor, it is necessary to carry out some preparatory work according to the following scheme:

As soon as you brought the panels into the room, moisten them with a little water, stack them on top of each other. Installation can begin the next day. Thus, you will save the material from possible deformation.
Next, if necessary, we dismantle the old coating and skirting boards. All paint must be removed from the floor, all debris removed.
The resulting gaps between the coating and the wall are filled with polyurethane foam. After it hardens, cut off the protruding residues.
Also, cracks can be sealed with putty for movable bases.
We study the old floor covering for the presence of fungus or mold, if necessary, we replace these places, since they should in no case remain under the new panels. After replacing the damaged areas, we treat the surface with a fungicidal primer or a special antiseptic solution for wooden materials.

Installing lags on the floor

With the help of lags, you can correct the slight curvature of the floor, even out its differences, slopes or irregularities. It is previously recommended to treat them with special compounds that will protect them from pests, fungi and decay.

You need to mount them in the following way:

We install dry and even bars with a thickness of about 30-50 millimeters on the main coating in increments of about 50 centimeters.
All lags must be located strictly horizontally. You can check their evenness using a building level or a long ruler.
When assembling the lags, we use special zinc lock nuts, which will prevent the fasteners from moving freely along the thread. Thanks to these devices, the nuts will not unwind and loosen the entire structure. The locknut itself should go a little deeper into the wood structure.
We fix the bars on the old coating, and where there are no wooden boards, we put pieces of timber or pieces of wood under the logs.

Rules for attaching fiberboard to logs

Installation of plates on logs is recommended to start from the corner that is opposite to the entrance to the room. Before laying fiberboard on the floor, study the scheme of work:

We fasten the fiberboard to the logs with screws, self-tapping screws or nails. The step is about a centimeter along the edge and one and a half centimeters in the center.
Do not forget to leave between the wall and the coating 5-10 millimeters for thermal expansion. In the future, it can be closed with a plinth.
The seams of the plates must necessarily converge on the bars.
The next row of material should fit snugly, leaving a small gap of a maximum of two to three millimeters.
All subsequent panels in rows are laid in the same way.

When installing fiberboard, they will need to be trimmed. This is easy to do using a hacksaw, jigsaw, hand saw. To get holes in the sheet for the pipe, you can use a regular sharp knife. If you need a more complex cutting, it is recommended to pre-make a cardboard template and cut the plate along it.

Technology of laying fiberboard on glue

You can install wood-based panels on a pre-leveled surface of the base with glue. Preparatory stage in this case, it is identical to the one that preceded the fastening of the fiberboard to the logs.

We work according to the instructions:

We apply glue on the entire surface of the material, it should be well and evenly distributed, without spreading.
We give the sheets 30-40 minutes to dry.
We also apply the adhesive composition on a pre-primed and well-dried surface of the base.
The sheet is pressed in a horizontal position.
The next product is tightly pressed to the previous one.
Be sure to check each fixed sheet for evenness and horizontality using a level.

Note! When laying the next row of fiberboard, you need to offset the joints of the plates by 40-50 centimeters in relation to the previous row. So you will give the floor more strength, and the load will be evenly distributed.

Technology for fixing fiberboard with mastic

Installation of plates on concrete screed much easier than lags. But most importantly, such laying must be carried out on a perfectly flat surface. If the base is slightly uneven, then they must be leveled with cement mortar. For laying on a concrete floor, strong and thick fiberboards are used. Also in the work you will need mastic.

Installation is carried out according to the following scheme:

Carefully prime the surface of the screed.
Half an hour before the start of the installation process, apply cold mastic to the underside of the wood boards and leave them aside.
We immediately process the entire surface of the screed with mastic. The thickness of the composition should not be more than 0.6 mm.
We apply hot mastic immediately before fixing so that it does not have time to cool. The layer of the product is no more than one millimeter, we level it over the surface of the sheet and the screed with a rubber comb.
The final stage of installation - it is necessary to firmly press the fiberboard to the base.

Features of finishing the flooring from fiberboard

The final treatment of the fiberboard floor helps to increase the life of the boards. The main thing is to carefully prepare the surface so that it is perfectly smooth and even, since it will be impossible to correct defects after painting.

We work according to the following instructions:

We clean the floor from the remnants of glue or primer.
We close all gaps between the panels with putty or reinforcing tape.
Carefully rub all the seams with fine sandpaper.
If there are stains, then they are treated with a degreaser.
We remove all dust from the surface with a vacuum cleaner.
We cover the plates with paint or varnish in two layers. Apply with a spray gun, roller or brush.

How to lay fiberboard on the floor - look at the video:

By means of wood-based panels, you can assemble high-quality flooring with a minimum of effort. Before leveling the fiberboard floor, it is necessary to carefully study the technical characteristics of the boards and choose suitable material for the premises being repaired, and then it remains to comply with the technology for performing installation work.