We are building our own cottage. How to build with your own hands and inexpensively equip a country house. What you need to know about pins
After acquiring a suburban area for a summer residence, the question of how to build a country house with your own hands becomes relevant. Well, to build it yourself is quite possible, unless, of course, a huge “palace” is conceived, requiring the involvement of construction equipment and a team of professionals.
Usually compact buildings are chosen for summer cottages, but, nevertheless, the house must have everything necessary for rest - rooms, kitchen, veranda. The latter will become a favorite place for an evening pastime all family. It is very important to make the country house cozy and comfortable, so you need to think through all the nuances of its arrangement.
The optimal material for summer cottage construction is wood, and the principle of construction is a frame structure.
Of course, the first thing that will need to be done is to decide on the place and size of the building, draw up a project, and plan further work.
Proe kt of a small country house
The size of the future home largely depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe summer cottage, the number of family members and the material capabilities of the owners. If you plan correctly, draw up a successful project and choose an inexpensive but high-quality material for construction, you can save space, money and time.
In any case, the first steps are drafting Most often, a country house has a size of 5.0 × 6.0 or 4.0 × 6.0 m. Buildings of a larger area are erected much less frequently, and, mainly, in those cases when they are planned to be operated year-round. But this is more likely to be not a country house, but a full-fledged country house.
The layout of the location of the house may have to be carried out on the basis of requirements that may be established by the board of the gardening partnership, therefore, when purchasing, you need to find out about such nuances in advance. Most often, the following distances are required:
- The house should be installed at a distance of 3 meters from the border of the neighboring site, and from the fence separating the site from the general passage (street) - at 5 meters.
- In order to ensure fire safety, a stone house is placed at a distance of at least six meters from another stone structure, and ten meters from a wooden one. If the house is wooden, then it should be installed at a distance of no closer than 15 meters from another wooden structure.
- So that the house does not cover neighboring buildings from sunlight, if it is placed on the eastern, southern or western side of the site, it is located at a distance from another residential building, at least equal to its height.
Usually, the highest is chosen for the installation of a country house. place in the area where water will not collect when snow melts or from heavy rains. High humidity under the house will never benefit any building material, but it will always negatively affect the overall strength and durability of the structure.
Most often, the following technologies for its construction are chosen for the construction of country houses: frame-panel construction, log cabins, walls made of blocks or bricks.
For summer cottages, projects of one-story houses with closed or open verandas or terraces are mainly chosen. Often the building has an attic used to store garden tools and other things that seem unnecessary in everyday life, but which can always come in handy in the country. However, it also happens that in some projects there are no attic floor beams at all, and then the roof slopes also play the role of a ceiling.
If the family is large, and the area of \u200b\u200bthe plot is not as large as we would like, then you can plan a two-story house that takes up very little space at the base. In this case, the first floor can be given over to the living room, terrace and kitchen, and on the second floor - to arrange cozy sleeping places for the whole family.
Not necessarily in a country house, to build a full-fledged second floor, since an attic superstructure can perfectly fulfill its role. Having finished it with natural materials, you can create a wonderful healthy country atmosphere there.
Country houses are mainly used in the warm season, starting with the arrival of spring and ending in autumn. Therefore, they do not require enhanced insulation of walls and roofs, but devices for space heating should still be provided - in case of cold nights or a drop in temperature during unstable weather. Usually, electrical appliances are used as heaters, for example, convectors or infrared film emitters, but sometimes owners even prefer to install fireplaces or cast-iron heating and cooking stoves.
By the way, if the construction of a real fireplace or a brick oven is planned, then they must be included in the draft project.
There are also ready-made options for country houses, which are sold as a set in disassembled form, which you just need to deliver to the site and assemble. Any such set of parts must be accompanied by detailed instructions that set out the procedure for carrying out work, the main technological methods and the connection diagrams of individual elements and assemblies.
For land owner, who has basic construction skills, it will not be difficult to assemble such a country house on your own. The main advantage of this option can be called the fact that often the kit already includes everything necessary for the electrical network of the building, for its ventilation system, and even for the installation of water supply.
Video: a small, neat country house that lives up to its name
What type of house to choose?
Having decided on a rough plan for the future house, you need to choose the material for its construction. Not only the type of the building itself will depend on this choice, but also the comfort of staying in it, as well as the costs of its construction.
- The traditional material for a country house is wood, which will create a favorable microclimate in it, filling it with the smells of the forest. A wooden house can be built in a frame way, from timber or logs. The disadvantage of wooden buildings is the high fire hazard of the material.
However, wooden houses have always been built, and many of them have stood for centuries. Today, special fire-retardant impregnations are on sale, which significantly reduce the risk of fire in wooden buildings. And in general - the most important thing here is not the material, but the human factor - it is the neglect of the elementary requirements of fire safety by people in the vast majority of cases that causes a fire.
- The construction of a brick structure will cost much more, but it can with great reason be called a full-fledged house, which can be used not only in the summer, but also, if necessary, in the winter, if you install a stove in it. Brick buildings are much less prone to fire and, with high-quality masonry, will last a very long time. Their disadvantages include a more complex and lengthy construction process, requiring special skills, and a high price for materials.
- Very often, when building a country house, different materials are used. For example, a house is built of wood, but on a foundation of concrete, brick or blocks.
This option can be called optimal, since the foundation of moisture-resistant materials will create optimal conditions for the construction of wood walls, thus becoming a reliable foundation for the house.
It is this last option that is worth considering, since it is the most popular of all types of country houses.
Stages of building a country house
Materials for building a country house
If there is no desire to mess around with calculations, then it is better to purchase a prefabricated model of a house that has a certain area, for which you will only need to prepare a place.
In all other cases, you will need to purchase building materials. Their type, size, volume, total number - all depending on the size of the planned building, which is determined by the project.
Prices for various types of timber
foundation material
For any type of foundation you will need the following materials:
- sand, gravel, cement;
- third-rate board and timber for formwork;
- brick or concrete blocks;
- waterproofing material (roofing material);
- expanded clay of the middle fraction.
Wall and roof material
Since wood was chosen for the construction of walls, then, based on this, other materials will be selected:
- bars and boards of different sizes, depending on the design parameters;
- fasteners - nails, screws, bolts, studs;
- corners of different configurations, metal plates - for fastening knots;
- vapor barrier film;
- insulation - mineral wool, ecowool or expanded clay;
- to cover the roof, it is better to choose a light material - ondulin or corrugated board.
After the installation site of the future house is determined, the materials are purchased, you can proceed to the arrangement of the foundation. True, to begin with, you still have to decide on its type.
The foundation of a country house
Even when building such a small and light building as a wooden country house, you can’t do without a foundation. In the case under consideration, one of two types is ideally suited for this purpose - this is a columnar and strip foundation. Which one to choose depends on the preferences of the builder.
- The columnar foundation will be a less expensive option, as it will allow you to seriously save on building materials. In addition, such a foundation can be completed independently, without outside help, which will also save some money.
How to build correctly, you can find out with all the details by following this link to the corresponding page of our portal.
- To create a strip foundation, you will need not only more materials, but also a fairly long time. This is not surprising - a trench will need to be dug around the entire perimeter of the future house, waterproof it, install the reinforcing structure, build the formwork and fill the pit with concrete. And after that, whether you like it or not, it will also take a month until the filled tape completely solidifies and it gains brand strength.
However, the strip foundation is still very popular among individual developers. This option is convenient in that it allows you to make a basement under the house, however, for this, the foundation walls will have to be raised above the soil surface by 700 ÷ 800 mm. described in detail in the article, which can be found on our portal by clicking on the link provided.
If a columnar foundation is chosen, then it is recommended to remove the top layer of soil by 150 ÷ 200 mm from the site, which will be located under the house and around it by 500 ÷ 600 mm. Then fill in the resulting pit with a layer of sand of 30 ÷ 40 mm, which should be compacted. A layer is laid on top of the sand cushion medium fraction crushed stone and is also compacted, and the remaining space must be covered with expanded clay of the middle fraction. All these procedures are done so that small rodents cannot get close to the house. They do not tolerate expanded clay (especially small ones), as it contains a large amount of dust and has a loose surface.
Expanded clay of fine fraction - an excellent remedy for rodents To protect the house from the penetration of large rodents or other uninvited guests from the animal world, it is advisable to close the space under the house with a metal mesh with cells no larger than 10 mm.
Construction of a frame structure
For a country house, the best choice is a frame structure The frame house can be placed both on a columnar and on a strip foundation. Construction always starts from the foundation, which must be securely waterproofed two or three layers of laid roofing material.
- If the project provides for a veranda, you must immediately separate its zone, over which a roof will be erected, but there will be no solid walls. To support the roof over the veranda, you can use the racks of the general frame of the walls. Another option - veranda will be attached to the house separately.
- Without exception, all wooden blanks must be treated with antiseptic compounds and fire retardants. These impregnations will increase the resistance of wood to fire, to decay, will prevent the appearance of nests of insects or colonies of representatives of microflora - mold or fungus.
- After the blanks have been properly prepared and completely dry, during construction, the lower frame (crown) is first made, which will be laid on the foundation and will subsequently be used to mount the floor.
For the floor to be reliable, for the frame it is necessary to take high-quality bars of the desired section. If funds allow, it is better to choose wooden elements not according to the “lower limit” of sizes, but by laying a certain margin in their cross section.
The table shows the optimal dimensions of a timber for a frame house:
- The support beams of the frame are mounted on coronal bars located along the perimeter of the foundation, at a distance of 600 ÷ 700 mm from each other. They are fixed with the help of corners or by tie-in. If the elements are large in cross section, they can additionally be fastened with metal brackets.
- When the lower trim with support beams is ready, wall frames are made. They can be assembled separately, and then, in finished form, are lifted and fixed to the frame strapping bars.
Another option is to lift the frame directly in place. For example, if a house is being built on its own, without assistants, then it will be very difficult to lift the finished frame from the shade alone to the height of the strapping, set it evenly and temporarily, until it is finally fixed, fix it. And this means that each of the bars will have to be set separately.
- The size of the bars for the racks of the wall frame should be at least 100 × 100 mm, but it can also be mounted from boards with a cross section of at least 50 × 150 mm.
The bars are fixed to the lower harness with the help of powerful corners that are able to keep them in a vertical position. It is best to use not nails, but a self-tapping screw for fastening - the difference in price is not so significant, but the quality and reliability of the assembly is incomparably higher.
- When installing vertical racks, you must immediately mark the location of the openings for windows and doors. It is best to leave the area where they should be installed in the frame free, and install the part of the wall with the window opening separately.
Then, when the upper strapping bar is installed and fixed on all other vertical racks, the section with the window opening is fixed in the place left for it.
- All four walls are assembled in the same way. At the corners, the side posts are fastened together with corners, or instead of two separate ones, one common corner post is mounted. It is recommended to support it with diagonal braces on both sides - they will stiffen the entire wall structure.
- The doorway is equipped in the frame immediately. It is reinforced with an additional rack, since the hinged door has a certain weight, which must be calmly supported by both the reinforced opening and the entire wall frame.
- If it is planned to sheathe the frame on the outside with clapboard, then the next step is to carry out this event. Sheathing will give the structure additional rigidity, which will allow you to continue the installation of the attic floor and
The installation of the floor can be carried out immediately after the outer wall cladding, but only if the roof is covered with a roof on the same day. It is highly undesirable for a freshly laid floor covering to get wet if it suddenly rains at night. Therefore, it is better to solve the issue with the roof first, and then calmly deal with all other construction activities inside the house.
Roof construction and roofing
Types of truss systems
A few words need to be said about the types of truss systems, since, moving on to the construction of the roof, you need to have a general idea about this, to know which design is better to choose.
Rafter systems are of two types - hanging and layered.
Hanging system
The hanging truss system is distinguished by the fact that it is arranged only on external load-bearing walls and does not have other supports. It is perfect for erecting over a small country house. In order to lighten the load on the wooden walls and on the foundation, the hanging rafters are fastened with a puff.
The hanging structure itself consists of a transverse beam, which also performs an overlapping function, and can simultaneously be a frame for filing the ceiling, as well as rafter legs that form the roof slopes.
Layered system
The layered system is installed if the house, in addition to external walls, has internal capital partitions, which will become additional points of support. Such a scheme can also be used in the construction of the roof of a country house, if it has a large area and its rooms are separated by walls built on a foundation.
With this system, the load on the load-bearing side walls becomes weaker, so fewer retaining elements can be used. It is great for attic structures that will be used as living quarters.
floor beams
An important structural element - floor beams The beams are laid exactly above the vertical posts of the wall frame. In order for them to fit snugly on the upper strapping belt, grooves are cut at their edges. The size of the grooves can be calculated based on the formula shown in the figure.
Beams are fixed to the frame structure of the walls with nails or self-tapping screws, and in addition they are sometimes fixed on both sides with metal corners.
Having completed the installation of the overlapping beams, you can proceed to building the roof truss system. For safety reasons, temporary plank flooring is laid on the floor beams to ensure the comfort of movement along the attic plane during the installation of rafters.
Installation of the truss system
The roof truss system can be mounted using a different sequence of fixing its elements:
- First option. It is necessary to fasten the extreme pairs of rafter legs on the ground, then raise them to the harness and install them ready-made on the gable walls of the house. And then connect them with a ridge beam, and already mount the remaining pairs of rafters on it.
- Second option. To begin with, install the middle racks along the gables, then fasten them with a ridge bar or board, on which the rafters are then attached.
- Third option. In this case, pairs of rafter legs in their upper part are fastened together with a ridge pad, and their lower side is fixed on the wall trim, which in this embodiment will act as a Mauerlat.
The cross section of the beams or logs used for the rafter legs must be strictly maintained - depending on the rafter length between two fulcrum, and depending on the step between adjacent pairs of rafters
| The maximum allowable length of the rafter leg (in mm) | Rafter spacing (in mm) | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1100 | 1400 | 1750 | 2100 | |||||
| Section of the rafter leg (in mm) | ||||||||
| bars with a section | logs Ø | bars with a section | logs Ø | bars with a section | logs Ø | bars with a section | logs Ø | |
| up to 3000 | 80×100 | 100 | 80×100 | 130 | 90×100 | 150 | 90×160 | 160 |
| up to 3600 | 80×130 | 130 | 80×160 | 160 | 80×180 | 180 | 90×180 | 180 |
| up to 4300 | 80×160 | 160 | 80×180 | 180 | 90×180 | 180 | 100×200 | 200 |
| up to 5000 | 80×180 | 180 | 80×200 | 200 | 100×200 | 200 | - | - |
| up to 5800 | 80×200 | 200 | 100×200 | 200 | - | - | - | - |
| up to 6500 | 100×200 | 200 | 120×220 | 240 | - | - | - | - |
It should be noted that the rafter attachment point in its lower part will depend on the angle at which they are fastened on the ridge and how long they are.
If the rafter is long enough and protrudes beyond the bearing walls, then a notch is cut out on it, with which it will be installed on the strapping beam (). An example of such a cut is shown in the picture:
If the rafter ends at the edge of the load-bearing wall, then its lower edge is cut off at a right angle with respect to the Mauerlat, and the leg itself can be fixed on it using a special mounting plate, sliding support, corner, bracket, nails or long self-tapping screws.
If the house is very small, then after fixing the rafters on the strapping, tying them with a ridge beam or board, you most likely will not have to install additional retaining elements.
Detailed information about the exact one can be obtained from a special publication of our portal by clicking on the recommended link:
For the installation of additional, reinforcing elements of the truss system, the material can be selected in accordance with the recommendations indicated in the table:
Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters
Fasteners for rafters
Roofing system
After the rafters and additional elements form the roof slopes, you can proceed to the installation of the subsystem for roofing.
- The first thing that needs to be done from the outside of the roof, after installing the rafters, is to lay a vapor barrier film, securing it first with brackets, and then with counter-lattice strips on the rafters.
The film is laid perpendicular to the rafters, starting from the lower, eaves of the roof. The overlap between two adjacent strips must be at least 200 mm.
- The main crate is mounted perpendicular to the counter-lattice, on which the roofing material will be attached. The installation step of the guides depends on the type and size of the roofing material sheets.
If, however, a soft roof is chosen to cover the roof, then instead of the laths of the lathing, the slopes are covered with a solid one - with plywood, and then with waterproofing sheets of roofing material, which overlaps by 150 ÷ 200 mm and is glued together with bituminous mastic. Another option is to use soft bituminous decorative tiles, which are laid using a similar technology.
- For wooden houses, the following roofing materials are most often used (depending on the steepness of the roof slope).
- On the prepared base, the selected roofing material is laid and fixed. Work starts from the cornice, and if the first row is laid from right to left, then all other rows are mounted in the same way.
Some types of roofing materials have a strictly specified installation scheme in the direction, which cannot be changed. This must be indicated in the instructions attached to them.
Also, for any type of sheet roofing materials, the amount of overlap in the direction of the slope (usually 150 ÷ 200 mm), and the number of waves (relief protrusions) in the horizontal direction, along the roof, is determined.
- Almost all roofing materials are fixed on the crate with the help of special nails or self-tapping screws with waterproofing gaskets.
- It is very important to choose and fix the ridge elements of the roof correctly, otherwise it will leak at the first rain. Usually the ridge element is selected from the same material as the covering of the roof slopes.
- Further, the cornice overhang of the roof is finished - this can be done with a wooden or plastic clapboard. Sometimes special plastic elements - soffits - are used for these purposes.
- Then, elements of the roof drainage system are installed on the windboard - funnels, gutters on brackets, pipes, etc.
- Further, the gable sides of the truss system are sheathed. Most often, wooden or plastic lining or even planed boards are used for this.
For lining along the perimeter of the gable triangle, a special profile is fixed, into which panels prepared and cut at the right angle will be installed. Installation is usually carried out symmetrically - from the middle rack to one and then the other side - then the skin will turn out to be even and neat.
By the way, to mount the lining, Moreover, you can horizontally, herringbone or come up with a more complex pattern.
Detailed information about the technology can be found in the article posted on our website by clicking on link.
Now, having finished the external roofing and being sure that the rain will no longer get inside the country house, you can proceed to the installation of windows and doors, insulation, flooring and wall cladding.
Installation of windows and doors
- Window frames are mounted in the frame openings left for them, set according to the level. For preliminary fixation, when the frame is set, spacers made of wooden bars or slats are installed between it and the bars of the opening.
Then, after checking the correct installation, the frames are attached to the wall frame with metal strips. The remaining gaps between the frame and frame bars are filled with mounting foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off, and platbands are installed around the windows on the outside of the wall, which will close the unsightly appearance of the gaps and give accuracy to the general appearance of the house.
- The installation of the door is best done together with the door frame, if it has sufficient rigidity. This will make it much easier to align the entire structure to the level in the doorway of the wall.
The door is best installed as a block - together with the frame and leaf Exposing the door frame, if necessary, to achieve a clear vertical position, enclose wedges (inserts) from wooden slats. The door frame is fixed to the frame in the same way as window frames, using metal strips, and the gap is filled with mounting foam.
Having installed windows and doors in all, you can proceed to the installation of the floor.
Installation and floor insulation
To begin with, the temporary flooring from the boards (if there was one) is removed from the lower frame, and then you need to install the subfloor.
- To do this, cranial bars are nailed or screwed onto the frame load-bearing beams. They are necessary for laying transverse subfloor boards on them.
- Further, boards sawn exactly to size are laid on the cranial bars, or plywood 8 ÷ 10 mm thick - this flooring will serve as a subfloor.
- From above, the laid subfloor is closed hydro- paro— insulating film, which should cover both the load-bearing beams and the entire floor plane. Individual sheets of material are overlapped (by 150 ÷ 200 mm) and glued at the joints with waterproof tape.
- Further, insulating material is laid or poured on the vapor barrier film. If there is no desire to have as neighbors who like to settle under the floor, then it is better to use expanded clay of medium or fine fraction, or ecowool, to insulate the floor - these toothy pests simply do not live in such materials.
- On top of the insulation, another layer of film membrane is laid, which is nailed to the supporting beams with brackets. The laying principle is exactly the same as on the subfloor.
With the floor - finished! - Then the whole structure is covered with thick plywood or wooden floorboards.
Prices for thermal insulation materials
Thermal insulation materials
Measures for additional thermal insulation
When the floor is completely ready, the walls of the house are insulated and sheathed from the inside. If the building will be used only in the warm season, then the insulation will still not hurt - it will work as an insulator of the premises from heating in extreme heat. Therefore, it is recommended to lay a thermal insulation layer not only in the walls, but also in the ceiling, and if it is absent, place the insulation along the inner slopes of the roof.
- First, vapor barrier material is fixed to all walls and ceiling beams. Then the ceiling is sheathed with clapboard, plywood or drywall.
- After covering the ceiling, the walls are insulated. At the same time, insulation mats are laid between the racks of the frame. It is necessary to make sure that the mats stand as tightly as possible with an emphasis on the bars of the wall frame, so that there are no gaps left.
That is why mineral wool is most often used as a heater - after dense laying between the racks, it will straighten out, completely filling the entire space. The material is usually selected so that the thickness of the mats and the thickness of the frame posts are the same.
- After that, all walls are again tightened with a vapor barrier film.
- The next step is wall cladding with wooden clapboard, or plywood. The latter, with subsequent decorative wall decoration, can be painted with water-based paint or covered with wallpaper.
- Further, the attic floor is insulated, where the insulation is placed between the floor beams.
If the ceiling is sheathed from the side of the house with drywall or clapboard, then we must not forget that it is impossible to step on it, since the sheathing will not support the weight of a person. It is necessary to move carefully along the floor beams.
- In the event that the attic is planned to be used for storing various garden accessories, then on top of the insulation on the floor beams, it is necessary to fix the flooring from boards or plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm.
- The finishing touches of the interior decoration will be the installation of platbands on windows and doors, ceiling and floor plinths and closing the corners with fittings.
Extensions to the house
The last stages of arranging a country house are installation work on the veranda and on the porch.
If space is left in advance for the veranda on the frame lying on the foundation, then a board is laid on this space to cover the floor (material for open areas is used), a fence is installed and a canopy is mounted.
If the foundation is raised high enough above the ground, then a porch is also attached to it.
Building a country house with your own hands is a completely doable task, but it will be quite difficult to manage without helpers. Therefore, it is best to seek help from a knowledgeable craftsman who has experience in such work, will always give useful advice and show how certain nodes are correctly mounted in the house structure. You can "mobilize" relatives and friends - it is possible that a knowledgeable person will be among them.
Video: construction of a country house using frame technology
If you have an idea to build a house with your own hands, then the difficulty of choosing the material will be relevant.
The most budget option would be to build a house from a bar. With all the cheapness of this material, the house will turn out to be quite warm, durable and strong.
Having studied the Internet, you will find that in most cases it is advised to choose a bar with a section of 150x150 mm.
But in the event that you do not want to attract additional labor, lumber such as dry timber 150x100 mm is suitable for you, which, after erection and shrinkage, can be insulated with mineral wool. The house will not be inferior in terms of thermal insulation to other buildings from a beam of a larger section.
Stages of construction and construction of the foundation
And so, the material is purchased, we proceed to the construction of the house:
- Initially, it is necessary to clear the space and level the platform for the foundation;
- In accordance with the composition of the soil, determine the type of foundation (specialized reference literature will help with this).
The foundation can be piled, monolithic or tape, which is more often used, because wooden houses are relatively light.
After installing the foundation, the concrete should gain strength (3-4 weeks), then proceed to laying the timber. Even before laying, it is necessary to prepare dowels (dowels) - this is what is used to fasten the timber laid in the crowns together. They are usually made of dense wood (larch).
With a beam size of 150x100 mm, dowels about 12 cm long are suitable. Also, the beam laying technology requires laying interventional insulation. Usually these are rolled materials such as jute, you can also use tow or moss.
According to the advice of experts, fresh red or peat moss should be used, which has lain for no more than 3 weeks.
The first crown of the future home should be made of larch, which is not subject to decay. For greater reliability, it can be treated with bitumen.
The bar of the first crown is fastened together, with a technique known as “half a tree” - at the ends of the bar, a cut is made along and across. It is also necessary to fasten such a knot with staples or nails.
Ways of fastening the beam to the foundation
At the stage of pouring the base, bolts with bent or cone-shaped bases are mounted in its upper layer. The distance between such bolts should not exceed more than 0.5 m. Each element of the first crown should have at least two bolts.
In the beam of the first crown, even before laying, it is necessary to drill holes for the studs located in the foundation.
A pre-cut roofing material is laid on top of the grillage, which acts as a waterproofing material.
After laying the first crown and fixing it on the foundation studs with washers and lock nuts, bring the horizontal level so that the house turns out without distortions. It is also recommended to check the diagonals.
Having laid the first crown, we proceed to the construction of walls.
To do this, you will need a variety of tools:
Note!
- Petrol or electric saw;
- Hand circular saw;
- Drill;
- Level;
- Roulette;
- Axe;
- A hammer;
- Screwdriver;
- Perforator;
- Plane.
Consumables are also needed - nails, self-tapping screws, interventional insulation, fire and bioprotective impregnations.
After preparing all the necessary materials and tools, we proceed to the construction of the walls of your future home. The timber is laid in rows (crowns) until the wall of the required height is obtained.
After laying 4-5 crowns, jambs for door and window openings are installed. At the next stage, the final construction of the walls under the roof takes place.
Roof and floor construction
We strongly do not recommend saving on material for installing a roof. This part of the house can be executed in several versions:
- Shed;
- gable;
- hip;
- Tent;
- Half hip;
- Multi-forceps;
- Vaulted and tambourine roofing.
It all depends on your desire, money and the complexity of the truss system.
Note!
Floors and ceilings in the house is also not an unimportant stage of construction. When arranging them, they are mainly guided by personal preferences, but high-quality waterproofing is mandatory for any manufacturing option. This is especially true for basements and plinths.
Do-it-yourself photo of a house from a bar
Note!
Since you are reading this article, a vacation outside the city on your site is attractive to you. A country house for this, of course, is necessary. It is highly desirable to build it simple, cheap and. For the sake of saving not only money and their labor, but also land. In this publication you will find information on how to build a country house with your own hands, perhaps easier, faster, easier and cheaper. It is also desirable that the ergonomics of the house allows you to wait out a long bad weather in it without experiencing discomfort, and the design of the building makes it possible to use various design solutions for its external and internal design.
Where to start
The first question that needs to be solved when planning to build a country house is what to build it from? Where - it is already known, the site will not be moved anywhere. According to the material, soil at the construction site and weather conditions, the design of the house is selected, a ready-made project is developed or selected for it, and then - estimates, purchases, and for business. We will start with the choice of material.
What to build from?
Since we are interested in options that are easy to implement, log houses are also excluded from consideration: it is very difficult to build them on your own. In addition, such houses are sensitive to seasonal ground movements and therefore require a foundation no less reliable than a fully buried tape one (from 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth of the NGP, counting along the bottom of the tape). The foundation of full penetration must stand to give its own shrinkage, at least from the end of summer until full spring warmth next year. The same endurance is required for insulated slab foundations, for example. swedish plate. True, there is a type of foundation for wooden houses that does not require a technological break (see below), but the timber or log structure itself must shrink for a year before it is ready for finishing. That's why a log or log house will be disproportionately expensive (from approx. 12,000 rubles / sq. m) and difficult to build on your own.
The same situation arises with brick houses and. Ultimately, the construction of a small country house made of brick, foam block or timber turns out to be appropriate only in very small areas, when an extremely compact structure is required. In this case, the house is built 2-storey; brick and lumber technologies allow an unprepared, but attentive and accurate builder to build a house on 2 floors. Examples of the layout of compact 2-storey brick and timber houses are shown in Fig.:
Note: it is easier for a novice builder to build a foam block house than a brick, timber or log house. The construction of a country house from foam / gas blocks makes sense if the cottage is visited all year round - no additional insulation is needed and there will be less heating costs.
The easiest and fastest way to build a small house is to assemble it from a prefabricated panel house kit or structurally insulated panels (SIP). A 20x20-foot (6x6 m) prefabricated house is set up in a week by a pair of chimpanzees of average mental ability trained according to the instructions for the kit. No joke, there were such experiences. But, alas, the cost of construction. At current prices, somewhere from 18,000 rubles / sq. m. Without foundation.
A SIP house will cost less, approx. from 15,000 rubles/sq. m with a foundation on geoscrews (see below). However, SIP structures are held on locks between the panels. In order for a SIP house to be completely reliable, it must have a lot of internal partitions from the same SIP with locks. Since there are few or no partitions in a compact house, we also do not touch SIP as a material for it.
So we come to the conclusion: to build a country house, so that it is fast, simple and inexpensive, you need it from wood. With one small but very significant exception, see below.
Project
An inexpensive garden and / or compact country house is best built according to a standard project; see below for essential construction details. A ready-made free project of a country house is quite easy to find using any search engine. Or for a fee - a detailed standard project of a garden house for 300 rubles. find really on the relevant sites.
How to choose easier and cheaper
However, when sorting through projects, it is necessary to take into account some significant circumstances, namely, the cost, duration and complexity of the zero cycle, i.e. earthworks and laying the foundation. It's the frosty heaving of the soil. With seasonal shifts, the ground under the house does not shake and does not roll over in waves. Summer cottages are cut into soils of various kinds, but having one common property - sufficient connectivity of their own, otherwise no one needs such a summer cottage. Therefore, within a certain space on the surface, frost heaving of the soil is reduced mainly to raising/reverse subsidence of its surface with a slight heel.On the other hand, a small country house has excessive rigidity and elasticity. Here the square-cube law, well known to technology (and stubbornly overlooked by amateurs), operates here. It is easy to test it by experience: glue cubes with sides of 2 and 10 cm from ordinary writing paper and try to crumple one and the other. The third factor is the intrinsic cohesion of the soil is inextricably linked with its mechanical properties.
Without going into further details, we will immediately report the conclusion: if a small wooden country house in terms of fit into a circle of a certain diameter, then on ordinary soils of garden plots it can be built on an unburied foundation, which is much faster, easier and cheaper. In what circle should the project of a wooden house fit in the plan, so that it can be built on an unburied foundation on soils up to and including medium-heavy ones, is shown in fig. It all depends, as we see, on the proportions of the structure: the more square the house, the better it plays out seasonal ground movements. Therefore, it is better to build “tramway” houses for narrow sections, without looking closely, on the foundation of a normal depth. But if the ratio of the “sticks” of a T-shaped house lies within 1 Note: the veranda/terrace is included in the projection of the house if it is rigidly connected with its design. Verandas that do not have a mechanical connection with the house or are hinged to it are excluded from the projection of the house in the plan. We will assume that we have decided on the foundation. We only recall that under a brick, timber or log house on all soils, except for non-rocky ones, it is necessary to lay a normally buried tape or TISE foundation. The slab foundation with insulation “settles down” on the ground for 2-3 years; this is enough for a timber or log house to begin to split. Under a house made of timber or foam blocks on slightly heaving soil, it is possible to lay a foundation on geo-screws (see below) with a steel grillage. An unburied foundation for a compact country house is the easiest and cheapest way to assemble a columnar foundation from ready-made concrete blocks 200x200x400. Blocks are laid out on a cement-sand mortar from M150, two in a row; top across the bottom. Thus, the column is obtained in terms of 400x400 mm. Pit pits for posts are dug to a depth of 0.5 m; of which 15 + 15 cm falls on the anti-rock sand and gravel pillow. It makes no sense to deepen the columns of blocks by more than 20 cm: the dressing of the seams is weak, and the horizontal components of the frost heaving forces will tear the columns. The number of rows of blocks in the column is made more than 2 if the house needs to be raised above the ground by more than 20 cm. a week. The recessed foundation of a compact house is often, following the model of large buildings, piled on bored piles in soft roofing material formwork. If the house is on a slope, asbestos-cement pipes are taken to the pile shell, which makes it possible to compensate for the height difference along the slope of up to 1.7 m or more. With regard to fast small-sized construction, the disadvantage of these foundations is the same as that of the tape - it must stand and settle at least from autumn to spring. Note: there is no point in laying the TISE foundation for a light compact house - the "caps" of the TISE piles normally work in the ground only under a sufficient weight load from the building. Of the small-sized houses, only a 2-story brick or concrete one is capable of creating one. The best option for a recessed foundation for a compact house is on geoscrews. Geo-screws are a type of shortened screw piles especially for light buildings. Unlike conventional ones, ground screws are not designed for swampy, loose and floating soils. A foundation with geoscrews for a large house will cost significantly more than a self-made tape foundation, because. ground screws are not cheap in themselves, but for a small house this is not so scary, since few screws are required. A geo-screw for soils of low and medium density, according to the principle of keeping it in the ground, is somewhat similar to a furniture confirmatory screw and also looks like it, see Fig.: The smooth head of geoscrews for dense soils is uniformly cylindrical. Those and other ground screws can be used on soils up to excessively heaving. On the heads of geoscrews, you can either lay the wooden lower trim of the structure, or mount a steel grillage. For information on how a wooden house is built on screw piles, see, for example. track. video: The advantages of ground screws for quick construction on a small site in cramped conditions are huge: Note: if you are building according to a ready-made project, which indicates the type and characteristics of the foundation, then you need to follow the recommendations of the designers, or consult with them about whether such and such a foundation is suitable on such and such soil. We come to the very essence: what kind of simple country house will be built cheaper and most likely? In ascending order of cost, complexity and time of construction, as well as potentially aesthetic qualities (suitability for design and decoration), the options are next. way: KUNG is an abbreviation for a Unified Body of Normal (Zero) Size. In the USSR, unified closed bodies for cars appeared after the Second World War and, thanks to their convenience, the name kung soon became a household name. A country house made of kung, most importantly, is very cheap: a decommissioned kung change house from ZIL-131 can be found for 30,000 rubles. And the construction comes down to bringing it and putting it on posts, concrete supports of grape trellises, etc., laid on a crushed stone pillow (so that weeds do not germinate and annoying living creatures do not start). The foundation for the kung is not needed on any ground in any climate - the kung is designed for off-road driving and overturning of the carrier vehicle. The kung has only one drawback as a country house: a utilitarian appearance, which any designer's attempts only stick out. But there are a lot of advantages: It is better to look for a kung for a country house from ZIL-131 or GAZ-66 cars (see fig.): they have a flat floor and it is easier to put them on posts due to small or no recesses for wheel niches. You need 6 columns (it can be brick folded dry): in the corners in the middle of the long sides. Among other things, kungs from ZIL-131 and GAZ-66 are cheaper and easier to convert into housing than Ural and KAMAZ ones. Note: do not take non-standardized "booths" from the ancient ZiS's and GAZ-51-53, their frames are highly susceptible to corrosion and insulation is no good. The width of the kung is standard according to the zero auto-dimension (2.4 m), and the length can be in the range of 3.5-8.5 m. laying a deep foundation. For a country house, it is preferable to look for a two-slot kung (two-slot), on the left in fig. But any other empty one turns out to be surprisingly spacious, in the center. Kung change houses (top left and right in the figure) already provide normal habitability for 3-4 people, but it would be even better to look for a kung from old hardware communications. There are also sleeping places for a crew of 3-4 people, and after some application of your hands from such a kung, you get not a house, but a candy, at the bottom right in fig. It is better to remove the right (looking from the entrance inside) compartment for the autonomous power supply (BEA) gas unit: a mini-toilet with a shower is placed in its place. Removing half of the shelves above the left compartment of the BEA, we get a place for a gas stove for 1-2 burners and a small cutting table. The BEA compartment itself, as if on purpose, is intended for garden tools, planting material, etc., and with access also from the outside, through a wide hatch. In addition, there are side windows in the hardware communications kungs, which can not be said about all kungs - military cabins. Chalet means hut, and what changes the meaning of this word has undergone with the development of architecture is another matter. A country house-hut is durable almost the same as a kung, because. its load-bearing trusses are triangular. A small house-hut (approx. up to 4x6 m) can be placed on a non-buried foundation on any soil, except for excessively heaving. Materials for a hut house are required 1.5-2 times less than for a bungalow or frame house, and it is easier to build it without experience and with a minimum set of tools. The hut house has one more advantage inherited from the ancestors: it fits perfectly with almost any finish in any landscape, see fig.: There are few drawbacks to the chalet. The house-hut retains all its advantages up to a size in terms of approx. 6x9 m, then it becomes more complex and material-intensive than traditional ones. Even in a small-sized hut, one of the sleeping places has to be equipped in the attic, where you have to climb a vertical ladder, that's all. In America and Canada, single hut houses are quite widespread - shelters for hunters, fishermen, beekeepers, seasonal sharecroppers (this is the same as the Soviet hectare farmer, who remembers), on the left and in the center in the figure: Arrangement of a single-seat house-hut - a shelter and a 3-seat country house But a house-hut of only 3x3 m in plan can also be a country house for 2-3 people, on the right. In both cases, there are few heating costs, because. the relative area of heat loss of a house-hut is smaller and it warms up faster due to more active air circulation. If your dacha is commercially inhabited from the first spring heat to the winter cold, then the hut house is optimal for you. After the kung, if you manage to buy it, who knows, they know the real price of the kung. The construction of a hut house with dimensions in terms of up to 6x4 m is carried out step by step. way (this is the so-called airship technology developed by the Germans to build their zeppelins): The hut house will be strong enough and durable only if the work on its construction is carried out in the specified sequence. This is probably the reason why few build hut houses - it’s easier to work on the principle of “take more, throw more”. Drawings of a house-hut 3x3 m for two or three are given in Fig.: The inset at the top left shows the design of facade frames for a house up to 4x6 m. The material, as well as intermediate frames, is timber 150x75. Firstly, on the facade frames, 2 ties are added to the tightening (intermediate frames without them). Secondly, instead of a ridge run, a ridge beam of the same section is used. Thirdly, the frames, except at the corners, are fastened with middle and upper straps (longitudinal stiffeners) from the same beam. Longitudinal and transverse bonds are connected by a half-tree tie-in. Those. using the example of a 4x6 m house, it is already clear how the complexity of construction and the material consumption of a hut house grow with an increase in its size. Note: on the lower screed, 2 more ends of the beam 100x75 are visible on the sides of the window. They are supported by internal partitions. The door frame on the other façade extends up to tightening and is made of timber 75x150; the lower screed of this facade is split. If this house is without a base, the window frame is similarly performed. In the general concept of a bungalow, this is an unheated one-room country house with an extensive covered veranda, structurally integral to it. For a weekend summer cottage in fairly warm regions, a “generally accepted” bungalow house is optimal, because. it is spacious, well ventilated, does not overheat by the Sun, and in construction it is no more complicated than a frame house, but less material-intensive. However, today little is known to professional builders outside the tropics that the bungalow is also a kind of building technology. Bungalow huts built on it (another name is hakale) can still be found in the wilds of Russia, the north of the USA and all of Canada. Some of them are over 200 years old, but most of them are still habitable. A house built using bungalow technology is easily recognizable by its 2-layer sheathing of vertical boards; the outer row is intermittent, see fig. on right. Bungalow, as a technology of wooden construction, combines elements of half-timbered structures and frame with working sheathing. Compared to both, bungalow technology has a footprint. advantages: The disadvantages of building using bungalow technology are, firstly, the increased requirements for the experience and accuracy of the worker (see below). Secondly, there is some complexity in the design of openings: the outer skin boards need to be cut in place to fit the trim, otherwise pockets are formed - moisture traps. Bungalows as shelters are generally more popular than huts due to better habitability. In a bungalow, you do not have to climb up to sleep and stick out to eat. The device of a bungalow-type shelter is shown in the figure: Drawings of a mini bungalow house - shelters The foundation, of course, is not necessarily a strip foundation (in this case, an unburied strip foundation, NZLF), but any one suitable for local conditions. If columnar or pile, then 12 supports are needed: 3 on the sides along the veranda and 4 (under each vertical rack) on the others. This house can be extended in length up to 3-3.5 m. Then, if you do not lengthen acc. veranda, you can fence off the toilet, and the attic in any case remains free for property and supplies. The “real” bungalow for outdoor recreation with dimensions of 4x5.875 m is, of course, more complicated in plan (see the next figure), just like a frame house (see below). There is no attic (this is a characteristic feature of "real" recreational bungalows). The requirements for the foundation are the same, but already for soils up to and including medium heaving; prev. the option is excellent also on strongly heaving soils. The main features of the bungalow as a building technology are indicated above. In addition: the power frame is assembled from a bar from 150x150 without jibs. Yes Yes! The rigidity of the structure is given by the sheathing of vertical boards. Plywood and OSB are of little use, because under each joint of sheets, lining racks and valleys are needed. Bungalow construction schemes are given in the figure: The truss floor structures are not conventionally shown, they are ordinary. Please note, on the left in the figure: the triple corners of the frame are assembled in a half-tree and into a spike, and the spikes of the racks are on the inside of the corners. This is an indispensable condition for the strength of the structure: the elements of the load-bearing frame must cling to each other at the corners even without steel fasteners. Although it is necessary, see the scheme for reinforcing the corners in the center in fig. It is unacceptable to use steel corners, linings, etc. in this case! For the Old Testament "oakness" you have to pay with labor. Sheathing boards need to be oriented with “humps” (bulges of annual layers) as shown on the right in the figure: inner inside, outer out. The outer boards should be slightly narrower than the inner ones, then in the process of warping the wood, the sheathing will compact and compress the frame. With any other arrangement of "humpbacks" it will split and the whole house will weaken. All boards are attached to the frame along short (end) edges with triples (not in pairs!) Of nails or self-tapping screws. The edge boards are also fastened along the long edges to the corner posts with the same fasteners in a row or with a snake (zigzag) in increments of 100-120 mm. The outer boards are attached to the inner boards along short edges with pairs of fasteners; long - in a row with the same step. The assembly of the power frame of the bungalow is a very important stage of work. And laborious, because you can’t hammer staples with a carpenter’s hammer, and you can’t tighten 12x300 self-tapping screws with a screwdriver. In old designs, instead of self-tapping screws, oak dowels were placed in wedging. The frame of the house using bungalow technology is assembled in the next. order: The frame mini-house does not have any features compared to the large residential one; the scheme of its device is given in Fig.: The order of construction is described in detail and with illustrations in many sources. You can also watch a video about the construction of a "classic" frame house 6x4 m:
The complexity and cost of building a frame house is higher than all those described above. The attention, knowledge and accuracy required to build a hut house and a bungalow do not count: they do not require costs and do not take time. But the frame mini-house also has an undeniable advantage: a simple shape with vertical walls and smooth cladding make it suitable for a wide variety of design delights, see fig. Also, the design of the frame house is very plastic. On the one hand, it forgives rather gross mistakes of novice builders. On the other hand, it gives creative lovers a certain scope for experimentation. See, for example, a video about the construction of a small frame house-shelter:
It is only necessary to add to this plot that the comments of the audience about the insulation are fair. Since it is impossible to “drive out” the dew point once and for all outside, and there are no massive walls where it could “walk”, insulating materials in such structures must be used to prevent condensation in the insulation layer and further inside: EPPS or cellulose insulation (ecowool) . The crossbar of the roof (all as it is, its supporting structure) of a small house also has a feature. It is determined by its small size, and, as a result, the excessive rigidity of the structure, as well as the absence in it (forgive the clericalism), put a load-bearing partition (internal main wall). To hold the latter, a fully connected foundation is needed; at least - tape normal depth. Rafter structures (in this case, this is the same roof beam) are, as you know, hanging (pos. 1a in the figure) and layered (pos. 1b): In the first, the rack of the truss truss rests on a transverse screed beam, and in a layered truss, on a load-bearing partition; split tie. It is technically possible to make a load-bearing partition in a small house, but it is not justified in any sense, including ergonomic - habitability. Therefore, the roof trusses of small houses are made only hanging. As for the methods of assembling the truss structure of a small house, they can be any of the well-known poses. 3 and 4. Choose whatever you like according to skill, availability of materials and desire. The minimum size of boards for a house up to 6x6 m is 40x130, ridge timber - 100x75 and Mauerlat - from 150x75. In a bungalow house and a frame Mauerlat, a beam of the upper trim can directly serve. If possible, you can hire hired workers to build this building. Of course, this will significantly add financial costs for your family, and if this is not possible, you will have to build a country house with your own hands. Basically, the owners of dachas build their houses with their own hands in order to save money for hiring a construction team and invite relatives and friends to the construction site to help, which by itself reduces the cost of building a building. Even summer residents sometimes use used materials, which can be purchased at half the price compared to market prices, but this will reduce the durability of the structure, also by half. When building his country house, the author decided not to save on the main material and buy everything on the construction market, so that it would be enough for a century and the house would stand for a long time, please his family and his guests with its comfort and aesthetic appearance. Of course, wood was chosen as the main material for the construction, which could be better and more beautiful than wood. The author bought bars and boards at a local sawmill, which turned out to be much cheaper than in a hardware store. Starting construction, I pre-drilled wells under the supporting pillars, inserted them and filled them with cement mortar. I made the binding of the pillars with boards and left for a day to dry the solution. Then he started building, step by step going to the cherished goal. And so now let's take a closer look at how he built his country house, and what he needed for this. Materials: board 30 mm, timber 100 by 100, timber 40 by 60, floorboard 50 mm, insulation, professional sheet, rail, fiberboard. And so the first thing he invited was a neighbor and together they drilled wells to install poles. Of course, it is not bad to use the services of specialists. They guarantee (most often) quality, besides, the construction time will be noticeably reduced. But if the budget is limited and you want, or there is a desire to try yourself in such an interesting business, nothing prevents you from rolling up your sleeves and building a garden house cheaply. An additional bonus is that for yourself everything is usually done exactly as it is imagined and dreamed of. Sometimes hired workers find it difficult to explain their vision. Then the walls are assembled from the timber, fastening the joints with dowels. Between the crowns is laid. In general, insulation is desirable for each successive layer. For an economy class house, a tourniquet or tow is usually used. Next, work begins on. For rafters, a board with a section of 150x25 or 100x50 mm is used. You will also need roofing material with glassine. To facilitate the task, racks one and a half meters in size are placed in the center of the building, and a beam is already attached to them. On the resulting structure are located. The construction of the roof of a one-story garden house on a frame can take only one day. The type of specific roofing material is selected individually, according to one's own capabilities and taste. Do not forget about the climate of the area where the future homeowner lives. Sheets of ordinary galvanized iron are often used. The finished frame is necessarily covered with glassine, and only the selected finishing material is mounted on it. It can be different, in accordance with the budget and preferences of the owner. Looks great, which is attached with self-tapping screws. One-story frame garden houses, trimmed on the outside with wooden clapboard or look attractive. Both wooden and plastic windows are well suited to the resulting structure. Naturally, doors made of wood or imitation of this material will look. indoors can also cover . And you can sheathe them with drywall, which is then covered with paint or pasted over with wallpaper. The floor is made of boards. Neat frame garden house ,
made by your caring hands, it is convenient to use for permanent or temporary residence. It is spacious enough to store inventory and household supplies. It has enough space for receiving and accommodating guests. And if in the future it is planned to erect a grandiose structure, then it can become the place of residence and basing of an entire construction team. A small garden house 4x6 with your own hands, without the involvement of workers, is not so difficult to build. The main thing is a responsible attitude to construction, attention and patience. And, of course, strict adherence to the recommendations and compliance with the requirements. And very soon your land will be transformed, and will take on the appearance of a real household. 
Foundation
Unburied
buried
Geoscrews
Video: installation of a frame house
What house to build?
When not to excess
Chalet
How to build a chalet
Bungalow and… bungalow
Bungalow like bungalow
Bungalow as technology
Skeletons
Video: country house 4 × 6 using frame technology
Video: do-it-yourself mini-frame house
In conclusion about the roof
Each person who has acquired a small plot of land for a summer residence seeks to build a house in a short time, or a similar easily erected structure. So that there is a place where to relax after a hard day's work, or to hide from inclement weather. Well and to be arranged in the household plan naturally. Of course, it is desirable to build a house to accommodate the whole family, and guests who came for the weekend. The task is certainly grandiose, but quite doable if you have accumulated savings for the construction of a country house, because a large amount of new building material will be required.
Tools: circular saw, drill, drill, screwdriver, hammer, shovel, electric planer, corner, ruler, tape measure, circular cut-off saw.
Then he installed the posts, and filled the holes with cement mortar. 
I made a screed at the bottom and at the top so that the pillars stood evenly, after a day after the solution had gained hardness, I proceeded to further construction. 
The author makes the top harness. 
Then proceeds to create the roof ridge. 
Next, he makes the roof sheathing. 
Shows the rafter attachment point. 
The leftovers from sawing up will also come in handy somewhere. 
Then proceeds to the installation of the roof from the professional sheet. 
Then he moves on to the device of the floors of the house. 
So it turned out a place to store boards from precipitation. 
Preparing a batch of boards by spreading them on a circular saw. 
And proceeds to finish the cornice. 
Sheaths the walls with boards, and closes the gaps between the boards with slats. 
Next comes the ceiling lining. 
Lovers of nature and country life who did not have time to acquire at least a frame garden house 6 by 6 ,
but those who have a plot of land usually dream of at least some kind of refuge in their possessions. Making a home with your own hands scares most citizens. But in vain. Today you can find a sea of \u200b\u200binformation about step-by-step construction from experienced craftsmen. It will not only give confidence, relieving anxiety and fear. Using the recommendations of professionals, you can carry out all the necessary manipulations competently and in the proper order, significantly saving on hiring a working team.Roof
Finishing
Use of glassine Approximate cost
Garden house projects
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