soil fertilization methods. Fertilizers from plants and ash. Fertilizers for different soils

In the process of harvesting, soil acidity plays an important role, which increases due to the disturbed cycle of biological restoration of land resources. AT wild nature plants die off and return to the ground, forming humus - a fertile layer.

In modern agriculture weeds are removed from the garden, and the fruits are taken out to feed people. They are trying to replace the disturbed natural cycle chemical fertilizers, the use of which helps to obtain good harvest vegetables, but depletes the soil, making it acidic and unsuitable for further effective use.

How to check the acidity of the fertile layer of the earth

You can check the acidity of the soil with litmus paper by dissolving a handful of earth in a glass of distilled water. When the sediment settles, the indicator should be lowered into the liquid and the state of the soil layer should be determined from the color image: from orange color increased acidity to a blue color of the alkaline reaction.

The acidity of the soil layer is indicated by the alphanumeric designation pH, in which numbers less than 6 indicate increased acidity, and greater than 7 indicate alkaline reaction.
Plants thrive best in a normal reaction that is somewhere between an acidic and an alkaline state.

Determination of soil pH level.

You can also determine acidic soil by vegetation that grows on agricultural land:

How to improve productivity?

We are constantly getting letters in which amateur gardeners are worried that due to the cold summer this year, a poor harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables. Last year we published TIPS about this. But unfortunately, many did not listen, but some still applied. Here is a report from our reader, we want to advise plant growth biostimulantswhich will help increase the yield by up to 50-70%.

Read...

• horse sorrel, horsetail, plantain, sow thistle, reeds with mass growth indicate the acidity of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bmedium and high form. You should not focus on single plants that can grow in almost any soil;
• chamomile, couch grass, clover, radish characterize the earth with a slightly acidic reaction;
• coltsfoot, flaxseed, bindweed, field mustard prefer an alkaline soil reaction.

A popular way to determine the acidity of the fertile layer is to steam the leaves of cherries and currants with boiling water. When the infusion has cooled, pour a handful of earth into it. A change in the color of the liquid to a red color indicates increased acidity.

How acidity affects plants

With an increase in the acid content in the soil, useful substances that provide plant nutrition pass into the state of salts, which are practically not absorbed by vegetation. There is nitrogen starvation fruit crops and gradual death. The yield decreases, the disease of plants increases, leading to their death.

You can correct the situation by using fertilizers, which are divided into several types:

• organic - obtained from the life of animals, composting plant waste, growing green manure plants;
• chemical nitrogen compounds, consisting of nitrate and ammonia species;
• liming of fertile soil layers.

Cultivation of green manure plants is the most safe way return of the fertility of the earth. Winter rye, oats, phacelia, leguminous plants, lupins are grown before the formation of fruits in the territory after harvest vegetable crops. Green plantings are mowed and dug up, giving food to microorganisms. Planting can be done in autumn and spring with digging at the stage of milk ripeness of the fruit. In a few years, even without applying additional plant nutrition with minerals and organic matter, it is possible to completely restore the fertility of the surface soil layer.

Liming is usually done in autumn for digging or plowing. Lime is brought in, already quenched with water. At autumn fertilizer soil with mineral additives or organics, first lime is scattered over the surface of the earth, nutrient compositions are on top of it, digging should be carried out without interruption.

The amount of lime that needs to be added to the soil varies depending on its type and acidity index. In the sandy layer of the earth, an amount of 1 to 3 kg per hundred square meters of land is required. The need for clay composition increases from 5 kg to 7 kg per hundred square meters.

The use of lime is not desirable for potato and cabbage plantings, as the agent causes plant diseases that significantly affect the crop yield. Substitutes are dolomite flour and chalk, which are more expensive than lime.

Yield dependence on soil types

To increase fertility and reduce acidity clay soils the most suitable means:

1. Application wood ash and peat contributes to a better harvest.
2. Every 2-3 years it is recommended to apply horse, sheep or goat manure, plant compost, which can raise soil acidity by 1 unit, helps to increase the thermal conductivity of the soil.
3. Nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium mineral fertilizers should be applied in autumn under plowing.
4. In autumn, lime should be applied for digging, using the product every 3-4 years.

On sandy soils, it is recommended to apply cow dung and alkaline mineral fertilizers before spring plowing so that fertility enhancers do not have time to wash out of light soils. Organics should be used regularly in small amounts, but more often.

Universal fertilizers are also used, suitable for high acidity for all types of soils:

• humus is used in greenhouse and open ground;
• manure from various animals in fresh brought in in the fall;
• wood ash has an alkalizing effect;
• superphosphate, azophoska, ammophos is used in any climatic zones.

Urea, ammonium sulfate and ammonium nitrate have the ability to increase the acid content of soils, therefore, they are used with preliminary liming of the fertile layer.

If the plants have already been planted, the treatment of the earth with dolomite flour, which contains an increased amount of calcium necessary for the proper development of plants, gives a good effect. Of particular relevance is top dressing on sandy soils, depleted in calcium and magnesium.

How to lower the pH level in the soil

By providing plants with complete nutrition of microelements required for proper development, it is possible to grow large yields on any type of soil, regardless of its acidity.

And a little about the secrets of the Author

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soil fertilization methods. Fertilizers from plants and ash.

Everything that the plant "ate" during the season, ideally, in whole or in part, should be returned to the soil. Fallen leaves, dead stems and shoots are converted by soil microorganisms before breaking down into mineral components, and plants can again use recycled organics and inorganics.

However, on garden plots a significant amount of organic matter does not return to the ground. Firstly, the entire crop is harvested, and secondly, in the fall, the gardeners produce " general cleaning": they rake the foliage, collect fruit droplets, cut shrubs, cut trees, pull out faded annuals, remove vegetable tops ...

If the gardener is literate, he will send all this wealth to the compost. But much more often, plant residues are taken away over the fence or burned at the stake. And soil microorganisms destroy unreasonably large doses of dry (and not the best in composition) mineral fertilizers and chemicals plant protection.

Outcome? Soils are degrading and depleted, since there is no one and nothing to create fertile humus. It is possible to maintain the required level of fertility and the optimal composition of soil microflora with the help of fertilizers.



There are two theories and two practices in agronomy, two ways of farming - organic and inorganic. Each of them has its pros and cons. The most reasonable thing is to try to combine the possibilities of both methods.

organic remains must definitely pass composting. Manure passed through the compost stage is more fertile and retains many nutrients. With the spontaneous transition of manure into humus, as a rule, most of the nutrients are mineralized - decomposed to elemental oxide. Gaseous oxides freely fly into the atmosphere. This is exactly what happens to the bulk of nitrogenous substances in manure - needed by plants free nitrogen escapes, leaving behind complex nitrates. Organic residues plus soil microorganisms are the basis of soil fertility.

It is also necessary to take such an approach as deoxidation. Soil microorganisms thrive in a slightly acidic or neutral environment. They do not want to live in acid. Acidified soils, as a rule, are of little use for agriculture. Moreover, it is necessary to deoxidize both already used soils and composts, since the soil becomes even more "problematic" from the introduction of non-deoxidized organic matter. (Compost is initially an acidic mixture, the high level of acidity is generated by its composition; acidic composts ripen slowly, since the activity of microorganisms in them is suppressed.)

The main deoxidizing element is calcium. It not only reduces soil acidity, but also improves their structure, "breaks" layered viscous clay and turns it into lumps. The annual removal of calcium from the soil from one hundred square meters is 4–5 kg. Therefore, it also needs to be replenished annually by adding 4–5 kg of chalk, crushed limestone (but not lime!) or dolomite flour. These are the optimal calcium-containing components, they can be applied to the ground in any season.

For example, directly into the soil to already planted and developing plants - they slowly dissolve, do not burn the roots, do not inhibit the soil microflora. Dolomite flour is the preferred option. In addition to calcium, it contains magnesium, which is especially poor in sandy soils.

organic farming

Proponents of organic farming use only natural materials(humus, compost, manure).

They provide the following arguments in support of their views:

● the word "chemistry" in popular opinion has become equivalent to the word "poison", the mere thought of it causes psychological discomfort;
● organic matter act on the soil only positively;
● with their help, beneficial microflora is restored without problems.

However, practice easily points to the disadvantages. organic way agriculture:

● guaranteed overdose of nitrogenous substances and inevitable accumulation of nitrates in plant tissues;
● a large amount of germinating weed seeds in the compost and humus, which is why the earth is heavily overgrown with them and requires endless weeding;
● pathogens of plant diseases are preserved in organic residues;
● non-optimal ratio of nutrients, leading to deficient diseases (lack of trace elements).

Non-organic farming

The essence of inorganic farming, or the Mitlider method, is the use of large doses of mineral fertilizers.

This method has advantages:

● speed and efficiency in comparison with slow processes of natural humus formation;
● easy control over the ratio of nutrients (the ability to choose a fertilizer or change its composition with additives);
● the possibility of foliar nutrition.

But the shortcomings also will not force you to look for a long time:

● Possibility of wrong choice of fertilizer by non-specialist;
● possible overdose of "chemistry" that inevitably accumulates in plant tissues;
● Violation of microbiocenosis, death of beneficial bacteria.

True, Mitlider himself used high doses of mineral fertilizers, applying them not to the soil, but to a neutral substrate (sawdust, husks, etc.), but this fact was either not specified in the popular literature or was simply not perceived. As a result, excessive use of mineral fertilizers has a completely opposite effect. stuffed chemical compounds the soil generally loses its natural fertility, turns into a poisoned substrate, and it will take years to restore it.

Mineral fertilizers




The formation of fertile soils is a long and gradual process. It will take several years to achieve the desired result. But plants need food. Therefore, it will not be possible to do without mineral fertilizers at all.

Mineral fertilizers are divided into simple and complex - according to the chemical composition, and acidic, alkaline or neutral - according to the physiological reaction. They can also be solid or liquid.

Strictly speaking, solid and liquid top dressings act on plants in the same way. However, liquid still have some advantages. They only need to be diluted with water - and the plants immediately absorb them, and the solid ones take time to completely dissolve in the soil. In addition, insecticides, micronutrients and growth promoters can be used along with liquid fertilizers.

Simple fertilizers contain only one macroelement and, depending on this, are divided into nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

complex or complex, differ in that each particle contains several nutrients. These include ammophos, diammophos, potassium nitrate, nitrophoska, nitroammophos, nitroammophoska. Liquid fertilizers are only complex.

There are more mixed fertilizers- these are complexes that include several simple ones. You can buy ready-made mixes, or you can make your own. For example, if you did not purchase fertilizer in advance, and you cannot postpone plant nutrition. Most importantly, don't forget a few important rules. And remember that mixed fertilizers cannot be stored for a long time.

A few rules for the preparation of mixed fertilizers
1. To avoid loss of ammonia, do not mix nitrogenous fertilizers containing ammonia (ammonium sulfate, ammonium chloride, ammonium nitrate) with lime or ash.

2. It is also not necessary to mix ammonium nitrate and urea with simple powdered superphosphate, and calcium nitrate is not combined with anything at all - otherwise the mixtures will become damp and become unusable.

3. In addition, mixes containing saltpeter should never be added to dry peat or compost.

4. Please note that the mixture of powdered superphosphate with ammonium sulfate hardens quickly and will have to be crushed.

5. If you are preparing mixtures of granular components in advance, then to improve their physical properties (say, so that they are free-flowing, well dispersed), add some neutralizing additives.

For example, before applying superphosphate, the most common mineral fertilizer, to acidic soil, neutralize it with ground limestone, dolomite, chalk or bone meal in an amount of at least 15-20% of the total weight, cement dust - 10-15%, phosphate rock - 20 %. If more is added, the phosphoric acid content may decrease and the fertilizer will not be as effective.


For most plants, a slightly acidic or neutral environment is suitable. If the soil in the area is strongly acidic or alkaline, this factor can be influenced with the help of appropriate fertilizers.

acidic fertilizers that acidify the soil solution are ammonium sulfate, ammonium chloride, ammonium nitrate, urea, ammonium bicarbonate. From phosphate fertilizers superphosphate is considered acidic, from mixed - ammophos.
If you apply a lot of acidic fertilizer to acidic soil, add lime to it over time - it will neutralize the acid.

Alkaline fertilizers alkalinize the soil solution. These are calcium and sodium nitrates.
Neutral fertilizers(lime-ammonium nitrate) do not change the reaction of the soil solution.
nitrogen fertilizers are sodium, calcium and ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, ammonium chloride, urea.
Phosphate fertilizers- superphosphate (simple, double, powdered and granulated), bone meal, phosphate rock, precipitate.
potash fertilizers- potassium chloride, potassium sulfate, sylvinite.

organic fertilizers from plants

Green manure is one of the pillars on which organic farming stands. This is the name of plants that are grown solely for the sake of increasing soil fertility. Their green mass is buried in the ground, used for composting and for the preparation of liquid fertilizers.

Liquid fertilizers from plants contain nutrients in the form of soluble organic compounds. They are used if appearance plants indicates a lack of any nutrients, as well as to maintain plants during a period of especially active growth and development of fruits.

Video: How to make grass fertilizer. Liquid green manure.

You can use liquid plants for watering under the root, and for foliar dressings by sheet. sheet processing gives faster and noticeable effect, especially in cases where plants lack nitrogen or potassium. For the convenience of applying liquid fertilizers, use barrel pump and hose.

Many gardeners have fermented nettle infusion- favorite green manure. Stinging nettle is a real storehouse of nutrients for plants, stimulates plant growth and the formation of chlorophyll in the leaves. Top dressing with nettle infusion on the leaves acts faster than any fertilizer applied to the soil.

Nettles, collected before the formation of seeds (fresh or dry), fill a wooden or plastic container, not reaching the top (in the process of infusion, the infusion will foam). metal utensils not suitable as nettle infusion may react with metal.



Finely chopped nettle greens are poured with water, preferably rain heated in the sun and mixed. For fermentation, 1.5-2 weeks are enough, usually after this time the infusion acquires a dark color, loses bad smell and stops foaming. For elimination bad smell you can add a little valerian leaf extract or throw a handful of roadside dust into it.

For watering under the root, they take an unstrained infusion, diluted 10 times, and for spraying the leaves, filtered and diluted 20 times. Nettle in the garden is useful not only in this form. If you mulch the beds with young nettle plants, this will not only have a beneficial effect on their growth and fruiting, but will also scare away slugs and snails.



For crops that require a lot of potassium and less nitrogen - tomatoes, cucumbers, beans - well suited comfrey fertilizer. It is also popular in Europe, where it is called Comfrey Fertilizer. To prepare the infusion, 0.8 kg of fresh plants are crushed, placed in a wooden or plastic container (metal is not desirable), pour 10 liters of water and leave for 4 weeks. The mass is stirred daily. For root top dressing, the unstrained infusion is diluted in a ratio of 1:10, for foliar top dressing - 1:20, it is diluted immediately before use. In the case of potassium starvation, it is used as an "ambulance".



Similar infusions can be prepared from a mixture different plants. For example, good fertilizer it turns out from a mixture of nettle, comfrey and "traditional weeds" - tansy, chamomile, snapdragon, shepherd's purse, horsetail. Dandelion and chives are also good. To further enrich with useful substances liquid fertilizer, at the end of fermentation can be added to the mixture in small quantities bird droppings, onion peel, bone meal, wood ash.

Many gardeners note that the unpleasant smell of fermented grass attracts pollinating insects. And the earth watered with nettle infusion is very fond of earthworms.

Nettle natural fertilizer

Among others herbs parsley grows in the garden. But she lost her natural color, in some places a yellowish tint appeared.

If the leaves turn yellow
First of all, remove the yellowed leaves. These leaves are nettle fertilizer green color will not return.
Yellowness may be due to lack of water. Or is it the work of a carrot fly that can attack parsley as well.

nettle water
But whatever the reason, it is useful to treat parsley with nettle water. In addition, the nettle will provide the plants with nitrogen.
If nettles are placed in water, the water will quickly absorb the nitrogen from the plant. Such water can be used as a fast-acting and mild nitrogen fertilizer.

nettle water recipe
For 1 kilogram of nettle you need 10 liters of water. Soak nettles in a plastic container with water for a day. To make it more convenient to take it out later, it is better to first put the nettle in a mesh bag.

If you soak the nettle for a couple of weeks, the mixture will become stronger, but will acquire an unpleasant odor. Such a strong mixture must be diluted - 1 liter of extract per 10 liters of water.

How to handle
Nettle water is ready to use. Treat the parsley with it. Plentifully and thoroughly water the parsley, thereby you will help the plant.
After such a quick and simple treatment, parsley lacks neither water nor nitrogen fertilizers.

wood ash as fertilizer




When you find yourself in a "smoke screen" set up by neighbors who burn cut branches and other garden debris, you want to make campfires in the areas banned as soon as possible and forever. But then the one who does not have home oven or at least a brazier, will lose a valuable and easily obtained fertilizer - wood ash.

Ash is the product left after the burning of plant residues. It contains 74 elements periodic table, that is, more than half of all elements earth's crust. The content of silicon, calcium, potassium and phosphorus is the highest. Other macroelements are also present: magnesium, iron and sulfur, as well as microelements necessary for plants: boron, manganese, copper, zinc, molybdenum and others.

The mineral composition of this "fireproof product" can vary greatly depending on what plant residues were burned and in what conditions these plants lived. For example, what is left of birch firewood contains up to 40% calcium, 12–13% potassium, 5–6% phosphorus, and 2–3% magnesium.

If we compare the composition of wood ash and ash herbaceous plants, then in the first one there is much more calcium, but less potassium, the amount of which, for example, in straw "residues" reaches 20–30%. Ash content ( percentage the mass of ash to the mass of the burned substance) of young twigs and branches of trees usually exceeds the ash content of the trunk. Tops and other remains of such horticultural crops, like potatoes, corn, sunflowers, beets, give ash, which contains a lot of elements necessary for plant life.

Due to its composition, ash can serve as an excellent alternative to mineral fertilizers. There is only one “but” - nitrogen is completely absent in it, and plants need it in fairly large quantities. Therefore, in the vast expanses of the Non-Black Earth Region, which are not rich in this "element of life", fertilizers containing nitrogen are necessarily used.

But it is better not to make them at the same time as the ash (this also applies organic fertilizers, such as mullein), this entails a large loss of nitrogen: it escapes, turning into ammonia. Phosphorus fertilizers should not be used together with ash: firstly, it already contains phosphorus, and secondly, it has an alkaline reaction, in which phosphorus compounds become practically inaccessible to plants.

It is very important that there are practically no chloride compounds in the ash, which compares favorably with many mineral fertilizers. So, first of all, it must be applied to crops that are sensitive to chlorine: potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, cabbage, strawberries, raspberries, currants.

On the estate and around

Mineral fertilizers

Organic fertilizers cannot fully satisfy the plants with nutrients, therefore mineral fertilizers are also added. The main nutrients that plants consume in large quantities (macronutrients) include nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, in small quantities (trace elements) - boron, manganese, magnesium, molybdenum, copper and others.

In order not to harm plants and soil, it is necessary to have elementary representations on the consumption by plants of nutrients and mineral fertilizers produced by industry. Before fertilizing, it is necessary to do a soil analysis. To do this, in the fall, samples are taken from five to six places on the plot from a depth of 15-20 cm, they are thoroughly mixed, after which 50-100 g are taken for an average sample, which is sent to the nearest agrochemical laboratory.

Mineral fertilizers go on sale in special packages, which indicate the content of active ingredients, dosages and often methods of application. When using mineral fertilizers, remember the following:

• do not exceed the recommended doses and apply only in those phases of plant growth and development, when necessary;
• do not plant fertilizers deep into the soil, as some of them can get into groundwater;
• avoid getting fertilizer on the leaves;
• conduct liquid top dressing after watering, otherwise you can burn the roots;
• stop any fertilizing four to ten weeks before harvest to avoid nitrate buildup.

nitrogen fertilizers

These fertilizers promote the rapid growth of stems and leaves. They are produced in several forms.

Nitrate form - nitrogen is contained in it in the form of salts of nitric acid. Nitrate nitrogen is not fixed by the soil and easily moves with water. It is advisable to apply these fertilizers only in spring and in top dressing (in small doses), since their excess contributes to the accumulation of nitrates in the product.

Nitrate fertilizers are calcium and sodium nitrate(nitrogen content, respectively, 14.1-14.5 and 16.3-16.4%). It is most effective to apply them under crops with a short growing season or with intensive absorption of nutrients (radish, lettuce, early white and cauliflower). In addition, these fertilizers are recommended for acidic soils, as they slightly alkalize them.

The ammonium form is represented by the ammonium ion. Ammonium nitrogen is poorly promoted in the soil, and it can be applied in the fall. Under the action of soil microorganisms, ammonium nitrogen is converted into nitrate. Among the fertilizers of this group, the most interesting is ammonium sulfate(20.5-21% nitrogen), highly soluble in water. It is best used on soils with excessive moisture. However, ammonium sulfate is a physiologically acidic fertilizer, so lime is added immediately after its application (1.3 kg per 1 kg of fertilizer).

The amide form is organic compounds. In the soil, under the influence of microorganisms, they quickly turn into the ammonium form and are close to it in their properties. The most concentrated amide fertilizer, with the exception of liquid forms, - urea(about 46% nitrogen). This physiologically acidic fertilizer is applied to the soil or used in liquid form in top dressing.

The ammonium nitrate form is represented by ammonium nitrate(33.6-35% nitrogen). Half of this amount acts slowly, and the other half is in a mobile form. The fertilizer is physiologically acidic.

Dose nitrogen fertilizers is determined by the need of various plants, as well as the nitrogen content in the soil in an accessible form. Very demanding vegetable crops include cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, Savoy, red, white (late) cabbage and rhubarb. Demanding - white (early) and Chinese cabbage, celery, asparagus. Kohlrabi, kale, cucumber, head lettuce, carrots, beets, spinach, tomato, onions are distinguished by average exactingness. Beans, peas, radishes, onions are undemanding.

A large amount of nitrogen fertilizers is not applied immediately, but in several stages. So, with the main application (before or during sowing), no more than 5 g per 1 m2 of the active substance is applied. The rest is applied fractionally in dressings, the initial concentration of the solution is not more than 0.2%, then it is increased to 0.6%.

Phosphate fertilizers

Phosphorus accelerates flowering and fruit formation. In the soil, it is in the form of organic and inorganic compounds, but is available to plants only after mineralization to soluble salts of phosphoric acid. Phosphate fertilizers quickly interact with calcium salts, and on acidic soils- with iron and aluminum and become inaccessible to plants. The following phosphate fertilizers are the most common.

• Simple superphosphate(14-20% phosphorus) - a simple water-soluble fertilizer containing gypsum and sulfur that does not increase the acidity of the soil. It is introduced as the main and in top dressing.
• Double superphosphate(42-49% phosphorus) - a simple water-soluble fertilizer that does not contain gypsum.
• Precipitate(22-37% phosphorus) - a simple semi-soluble fertilizer. It dissolves in soil acids, alkalizing the soil.
• Ammophos(about 50% phosphorus and 11-12% nitrogen) - complex fertilizer. They are used in the main application and in top dressing, closing up at a certain distance from the plants so as not to cause burns.
• Nitrophoska(11-13% phosphorus, 13% nitrogen and potassium each) - a complex water-soluble fertilizer. On heavy soils, apply in the fall, on light soils - in the spring.
• Diammophos(55% phosphorus, 19% nitrogen) is a complex highly concentrated water-soluble fertilizer. Can be used on all types of soil.
• Phosphorite flour(19-25% phosphorus) - a simple, sparingly soluble fertilizer. On acidic soils, it slowly turns into an assimilable form. Reduces acidity, but does not replace liming. Digestibility increases when composted with peat or manure.
• Bone flour- very useful sparingly soluble long-acting fertilizer, rich in calcium phosphorus and other elements. It is not difficult to prepare bone meal on your own, since bones from meat and poultry dishes remain in every family. The bones are dried and put in a bag. When they accumulate in sufficient quantities, the bones are placed in an old saucepan, covered with a lid, put on a fire and burned for 30-60 minutes. The cooled bones are crushed in a mortar to a powdery state. Bones are well disposed of with slaked lime or in compost. Coarsely ground bones are sprinkled with slaked lime (6:1) and poured with a solution of potash (1:20) or mixed with ash (1:1). Next, the mixture is periodically moistened with water, and after two to three weeks it is shoveled. Two to three weeks after shoveling, a soft mass is formed, which is dried and ground into powder. To prepare compost, bone meal is poured into a barrel or pit, layered with ash, sawdust, and manure. From above, everything is covered with straw and periodically watered with slurry. After a week, the straw is removed, the mass is mixed, watered with slurry and again covered with straw. This procedure is then repeated every 2 months. The compost is ready to use when the bones are completely broken down. As a slow-acting fertilizer, bone meal is applied for perennial plantings and to improve acidic soils.

  potash fertilizers

  Potassium fertilizers contribute to the growth and strengthening of the vessels through which water and the nutrients dissolved in it move. Together with phosphorus, potassium contributes to the formation of flowers and ovaries of fruit crops.

  All potash fertilizers they are highly soluble in water and are retained in the soil, but on clay soils they move slowly into the lower layers. The following fertilizers are most often used.

• Potassium chloride(52-62.5% potassium) contains chlorine, which is undesirable for many vegetable crops. But when applied in the fall, chlorine disappears. On poor and infertile soils, it is not recommended to use in the spring.
• Potassium salt(30-40% potassium) has the same properties as potassium chloride, but contains more chlorine. This powerful fertilizer must be applied in the fall. Root crops are especially responsive to it.
• Potassium and magnesium sulfate, or potassium magnesia(28-30% potassium and 8% magnesium) is a complex fertilizer with a small amount of chlorine. Most effective on sandy and sandy soils poor in magnesium.
• Potassium sulfate(45-48% potassium) - chlorine-free fertilizer suitable for all vegetable crops. It can be applied as the main and in top dressing.
• Nitroammophoska(17% potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus each) - a complex fertilizer, well absorbed on any soil. They are applied in autumn or spring (in holes, rows).
• Azofoska(11% potassium and phosphorus, 22% nitrogen) - complex fertilizer. All nutrients are in an easily digestible form. Due to the high nitrogen content on light sandy soils, it is recommended to apply in the spring.
• cement dust(waste from the cement industry) - non-chlorine potash fertilizer. Recommended for acidic soils and chlorine sensitive crops. It is useful to mix with peat (1:1).
• Ash (wood)- the most affordable fertilizer, rich in many macro- and microelements (except nitrogen). Ash improves soil structure by reducing acidity. On loamy and clayey soils, it is applied for autumn digging, on sandy and sandy loamy soils - in the spring. The action continues for four years. It is not recommended to mix ash with ammonium sulfate, slurry and faeces.

  Microfertilizers

  Trace elements protect plants from many diseases, enhance the processes of fertilization and fruit formation. Trace elements are used only if they are lacking in the soil. On soddy-podzolic soils, molybdenum and boron are most often lacking, and on peaty soils - copper.

  To make up for the lack of microelements, microfertilizers produced by the industry in tablets are introduced into the soil. Since the doses of trace elements are negligible, they are mainly used in foliar top dressing and in seed treatment before sowing. For this purpose, you can also use complex fertilizers containing essential nutrients and trace elements. When using microfertilizers or complex fertilizers with trace elements, the instructions for use must be strictly observed.

  Of particular interest is a new microfertilizer ecost 1. It contains zinc, boron, copper, manganese and a biologically active carrier. Seeds of vegetable crops and potato tubers powdered with this preparation remain viable for two to three years, and young plants become resistant to pathogens and stress factors. The use of the drug allows to reduce the doses of conventional fertilizers by 30%.

  The basis of another new drug togum constitutes lowland peat (80%). It also contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, trace elements and biologically active substances in the form of potassium humate. The latter contributes to a better assimilation of mineral nutrition elements by plants, a decrease in the incidence of plants, and an improvement in product quality. Togum is considered environmentally friendly, has the ability for long-term assimilation and is not washed out of the soil for a long time.

  A newly developed device contributes to obtaining environmentally friendly products apion various modifications. It is a polymer shell, where complex soluble fertilizers (for example, nitroammophoska) are placed, to which microelements and natural growth stimulants are added. The device, placed at a distance of 15-20 cm from the plants, works on the principle of an automatic feed pump and, under the action of soil moisture penetrating through the membrane, provides continuous plant nutrition throughout the season.

  A new highly effective and environmentally friendly type of organo-mineral fertilizers has appeared on sale - root feeder enclosed in a semi-permeable membrane. It contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and many trace elements, as well as protein and humic acids. The membrane cover excludes contact of fertilizer with the person and animals.

  Of interest and water-absorbing material terracotta theme(Belgium). It consists of a polymer, mineral and organic fertilizers, growth stimulants. Terracottem not only perfectly heals the earth and saves up to 50% of water, but also significantly increases yields. In the first year after its application, fertilizers are not used at all, and from the second year, the usual doses are halved. All the necessary macro- and microelements in a form accessible to plants are contained in the preparation Kemira universal (Finland).

  Bacterial fertilizers

  Bacterial fertilizers are specially propagated pure bacteria, which, getting into the soil, turn nutrients that are inaccessible to plants into more accessible ones. On the household plots use the following bacterial fertilizers. Azotobacterin improves the nitrogen nutrition of plants by assimilating nitrogen from the air. They process seeds, tubers or seedling roots on the day of sowing or planting. The drug is afraid of light, so the treatment is carried out in the shade.

• Azotobacter contributes to the accumulation of nitrogen and available forms of phosphorus in the soil.
• Nitrogin, containing nodule bacteria, is used only for the treatment of seeds of legumes.
• AMB consists of a number of bacteria that form nutrients in the soil available to plants. The drug is used on low-humus soils or in the preparation of peat pots.
• Phosphorobacterin contains spores of phosphorus bacteria, which decompose organic phosphorus compounds into forms available to plants, especially on soils with high content humus. On acidic and cold soils, the effect of bacterial fertilizers is sharply reduced, so they are preliminarily limed. The shelf life of bacterial fertilizers is short, which should be considered when buying.

  According to Internet sources

Soil acidity is a property determined by a certain concentration of hydrogen ions in the soil. It is usually expressed in terms of the pH of the solution (liquid phase of the soil), where pH is the negative logarithm of the concentration of hydrogen ions, expressed in gram equivalents per liter. At pH = 7, the reaction of the solution is neutral (the number of H + and OH- ions is the same), at below 7 it is acidic, above 7 it is alkaline, so the lower the pH, the greater the acidity of the soil.

Checking soil acidity

In most cases, the reaction of the soil solution of cultivated lands is in the pH range from 4 to 9, but there are even more extreme indicators, so the pH of sphagnum peat is close to 3, and on solonets peat to 10. To determine the actual (active) acidity of the soil at home, use litmus paper and prepared soil extract. For extraction (suspension 1: 5), you can use a test tube or a small sterilized jar. 2 g of soil is placed in it and 10 ml of distilled water are added. Shake the tube and allow the precipitate to settle. Then dip a litmus paper into the supernatant and compare its color with the color table.

pH 3.0 - orange color

pH 4.0 - color yellow-orange

pH 5.0 - color yellow

pH 6.0 - color greenish yellow

pH 7.0 - yellow-green color

pH 8.0 - color green

pH 9.0 - color blue-green

pH 10.0 - color blue

indicator plants


We know that all plants, both horticultural crops and houseplants, have a different need for soil acidity. Some of them prefer slightly acidic soils, others grow well only on neutral or slightly alkaline soils. There is a corresponding terminology: acidophiles plants in acidic soils neutrophils– plants of neutral soils, basiphylls- Plants of alkaline soils. Wild herbs can serve as a kind of indicator of acidity, for example, where acidophiles grow (pH = 5.3-6.0): horsetail, common sorrel, mosses, horsetails, caustic buttercup, blueberries, common sorrel - the soil is probably acidic . Heathers, meadow cornflowers, forest ferns - on slightly acidic (pH = 6-6.7).


Neutrophils (рН=6.0 - 7.2): cornflower, common chicory, creeping clover, sow thistle, couch grass, shepherd's purse, alpine cuff, feather grass, bearded irises, carnations, bluebells, etc. Basiphylls (рН=7.3 - 8.1): common coltsfoot, hop alfalfa, Marshall's thyme, field bindweed, poppy seed, rhizome sedge, lady's slipper, rhizome sedge, etc.

But relying entirely on wild herbs to determine acidity is not an option—studies show that the occurrence different types on soils with one or another acidity is different. Many plants are indifferent to small fluctuations in soil acidity, in addition, there is adaptability to edaphic factors (a combination of physical and chemical properties of soils). Therefore, the most reliable way to determine acidity is with the help of chemicals(litmus indicator).


Of garden crops, there are no special lovers of acidic soils; quince, apple trees, raspberries, blackberries, wild strawberries and edible honeysuckle, cranberries, shadberry (gonobobel) grow well on slightly acidic soils, from garden crops: tomatoes and potatoes, radishes, sorrel, zucchini and pumpkins, worse carrots. From flowers: anemones, dicentras, primroses of various types, Siberian and Japanese irises and some (for example, Asian hybrids), many varieties of roses, armeria, dryads, saldanella, hydrangeas, as well as most conifers, heather (erica), rhododendrons.

Most horticultural crops prefer a pH close to neutral. These are, first of all, cucumbers, cabbage, Bell pepper, beetroot, garlic, onion, asparagus, spinach, turnip, radish, melon, watermelon, cherry plum. From fruit and berries: red, black, white currant, cherries, sweet cherries, pears, apricots, plums, grapes (almost all varieties bear fruit well exclusively on neutral soils), as well as apple trees (they are tolerant of acidity and grow well on both slightly acidic and neutral soils). Moreover, some vegetables, such as cabbage and beets, do not tolerate acidic soils at all, the optimal pH for them is in the range of 7-7.5.

Effect of soil acidity on plants

It is very important that the acidity of the soil corresponds to the crop being grown, otherwise the nutrition of the plants is disturbed, some elements are not absorbed. For example, in acidophilic plants (hydrangeas, rhododendrons, azaleas, heathers), the alkaline reaction of the soil provokes a lack of iron, magnesium and manganese ions in the tissues, which hinders the formation of chlorophyll and leads to the manifestation of chlorosis (interveinal chlorosis - yellowing of the leaf between the veins). Therefore, the soil for such plants must be acidified using high-moor or transitional peat, in the amount of 30-50%, depending on the initial pH. At the same time, too acidic soil reaction also leads to shortage and non-assimilation of some nutrients. So, the decomposition chain of nitrogenous substances is as follows:

humic substances => amino acids, amides => ammonia => nitrites => nitrates => molecular nitrogen

The process of decomposition of organic matter to ammonia is called ammonification. Ammonium nitrogen in the soil undergoes nitrification - oxidation to nitrite and then nitrate (with the participation of specific aerobic bacteria). Wherein optimal conditions for nitrification are: good aeration, moderate moisture, temperature 25-32°C and close to neutral reaction.

Intensive nitrification is one of the signs of the qualitative state of the soil. On acidic waterlogged soils under conditions of poor aeration, nitrification processes proceed weakly and stop at the stage of ammonium formation. Nitrification due to not favorable conditions for the activity of nitrifying bacteria is suppressed and occurs slowly. Thus, in plants on acidic soils, with a combination of unfavorable factors (wet rainy weather, especially with a cold snap, or flooded indoor plant) signs of nitrogen starvation begin to appear rather quickly - leaf chlorosis begins with the veins and tissues adjacent to them (with natural aging of the leaves, the tissues between the veins first turn yellow, and the veins themselves remain green for some time).

Violation of the decomposition of organic matter and the conversion of nitrogen compounds is also observed on soils with excessive alkalinity, tk. they are unfavorable for the activity of soil microorganisms. And, nevertheless, the shift of the soil pH value to the alkaline side is less harmful to plants than to the acidic one. This is due to the fact that the cells of the root of the plant emit carbon dioxide, and sometimes organic acids, which neutralize excess alkalinity. At the same time, in excessively acidic soils, aluminum and iron salts pass into solution, which in turn converts phosphoric acid into a phytotoxic form that is indigestible for plants.

A high concentration of aluminum and manganese in neutral soils does not show toxicity, and on acidic soils it causes a violation of the absorption of calcium, potassium, phosphorus, magnesium and molybdenum, which ultimately leads to a decrease in yield. On acidic soils, elements such as copper, zinc and boron also become phytotoxic. With increased soil acidity, the growth and branching of roots, the permeability of root cells deteriorate, as a result, the absorption of water and nutrients by plants worsens.

Soil acidity and fertilizer

Some fertilizers deacidify the soil (reduce acidity), such as potassium and ammonium sulfates, potassium chloride, ammonium nitrate, urea or superphosphate. When making, for example, sodium and calcium nitrate, plants consume more NO3- anions than Na + or Ca2 + cations, which, remaining in the soil, shift the reaction towards alkalization. These fertilizers, when used systematically, reduce soil acidity. But urea in the first days after application causes alkalization of the soil (the formation of ammonium carbonate (NH4) 2CO3 - an alkaline salt), and later, during the nitrification of the latter, alkalization of the soil is replaced by some acidification. This is what urea is good for - it is used as the main fertilizer for all crops and on various types of soil. While ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate strongly acidify the earth.

Liming is one of the main and common methods for improving acidic soils. Lime displaces hydrogen and aluminum from the fertile soil layer and replaces them with calcium and magnesium. Depending on the set soil pH, liming is required:

At pH< 5 имеется необходимость известкования, чем ниже рН, тем острее необходимость.

At a pH of 5 to 5.5, it is desirable to carry out liming

At pH = 5.5, liming is not required (except for soils under acid-sensitive crops (beets, cabbage))

Liming is carried out by introducing lime or dolomite flour into the soil to a depth of 20 cm, once every 5-6 years, depending on the initial pH and soil structure - the heavier the soil, the more lime is required:

The soil	The rate of lime, kg / 10 m2, at the pH of the soil solution:
	4,5	5,0	5,5
Sandy	3,0	1,5	1,0
sandy loam	3,5	2,0	1,5
light loamy	4,5	3,0	2,5
Medium loamy	5,5	4,0	3,0
heavy loamy	6,5	5,0	4,0
clayey	7,0	5,5	4,5

What does liming give

• First, a shift in soil acidity towards a neutral solution reaction promotes the development of soil microorganisms involved in the conversion of nitrogen, phosphorus, and other nutrients from soil organic matter.
• Secondly, mobile compounds of aluminum and manganese pass into an inactive state, as a result, their toxic effect on plants decreases.

Fertilizers for soils of different types

Cultivated plants - trees, shrubs, garden flowers and garden plants Can only be grown in fertile soil. What does the very concept of "fertile soil" include?

So, fertility is the ability of the soil to provide plants with nutrients, water, heat and air, i.e. all the components that are needed for their normal growth and development.

The degree of soil fertility is determined by the process of soil formation, the structure and composition of the soil, the content of microelements, nitrogenous and ash substances in it. It is also due to the ability to optimize air, temperature and water conditions. Soils different types have varying degrees of fertility.

Clay soils

Clay soils are heavy compacted soils that are characterized by increased density and viscosity and almost complete air impermeability. For this reason, plant roots do not receive enough oxygen. In addition, without oxygen, microorganisms, which are an important part of the soil formation process, cannot exist in clay soil, as they decompose organic matter. As a result, due to lack of air, the decomposition of the organic components of the soil slows down, it becomes poorer, and plants cannot get the nutrients they need.

In addition, clay soils practically do not allow moisture to pass through, making it impossible for the development of an internal capillary system that creates an optimal environment for plant growth. Being moist, these soils stick together too much, water lingers in their surface layers, accumulating in the root zone of planted plants. Due to excess moisture, the roots rot and the plants die.

Another significant disadvantage of clay soils is their coldness - too high density soil prevents it from being heated by the sun's rays.

To cultivate clay soils, they need to be enriched and lightened by periodically adding wood ash, lime, peat and coarse sand (up to 40 kg per 1 m 2). The introduction of sand makes it possible to reduce the moisture capacity of clayey soil and increase its thermal conductivity, ability to warm up and water permeability.

The biological qualities of clay soil can be improved with horse, sheep or goat manure and vegetable compost. Usually, manure is applied to the soil at intervals of 1 time in 2-3 years, embedding at a shallow or medium depth. On dense clay soils, you can arrange warm bed. Mullein contributes to soil salinization, therefore, on heavy clay soils, it is better to use peat as an air conditioner.

To provide clay soils with macro- and microelements, sodium or calcium nitrate can be used, which are alkaline fertilizers recommended for use on acidic soils. Also on clay soils, azofoska will be effective. Nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium on heavy clay soils, it is advisable to bring in the fall for digging.

loamy soils

Loamy soils are an intermediate link between sandy and clayey soils, and, having the advantages of both, they have almost no disadvantages. Therefore, such soils are considered the most suitable for the cultivation of various horticultural and horticultural crops.

Loamy soils are characterized by a granular-cloddy structure, are quite easy to work, contain many components of mineral origin and nutrients. At the same time, their number is constantly increasing, since microorganisms are actively working in the soil, improving its high biological qualities. The indisputable advantage of loamy soils is a high level of water and air permeability, thanks to which they can retain moisture, evenly distributing it over the entire thickness of the horizon, and retain heat.

The cultivation of loamy soils does not require large investments of labor and funds. It is quite enough to regularly apply organic fertilizers (compost, humus) during autumn digging. Once every 3 years, rotted manure can be applied, embedding it not very deep. If necessary, bone meal is used as the main fertilizer at the rate of 3-4 kg per 1 m 2.

On light loams, where organic matter decomposes faster and nutrients easily go into the deep layers of the soil, it is better to apply rotted cow manure every 2 years, embedding it deep enough.

sandy soils

Sandy soils in their bulk consist of sand. In addition to it, they contain fractions of mineral origin and a small amount of humus. Sandy soils are light soils with a loose, loose and granular structure, they are easy to work with.

The main property of sandy soil is increased water and air permeability, but it is not able to retain moisture and resist erosion. During the day, sandy soil quickly and strongly overheats, and also quickly cools down at night. Among the main disadvantages of sandy soil are its low biological qualities and a modest population of microorganisms, they simply lack nutrients and moisture. On some varieties sandy soils Plants can be successfully grown if fertilized regularly.

It will take some effort to cultivate sandy soil, since even regular application of organic fertilizers does not significantly improve its fertility. Organic matter in such soil quickly decomposes, and nutrients are also quickly washed out, passing to the lower layers. That's why root system plants are not getting the right amount of nutrients.

❧ The yield of any plants depends on the conditions of the natural environment, as well as on various reclamation and agrotechnical measures. If organic and mineral fertilizers are regularly applied to poor soils, then the difference in yields on fertile and infertile soils can be minimized.

To improve such soil, you must first improve the physical and chemical characteristics of sandy soils by introducing those substances that have binding and compacting properties - these are peat, drilling and clay flour, silt masses, compost and humus. These measures help to normalize the microflora of soil horizons and create the most favorable conditions for soil formation and normal plant growth. To prevent rapid leaching of nutrients, it is better to regularly apply fast-acting fertilizers, using small dosages and keeping short breaks between applications.

Bone meal on light sandy soil can be used in its natural form at least 3-4 kg per 1 m 2.

Decomposed cow dung on sandy soils should preferably be applied every 2 years and with a sufficient embedment depth. In extreme cases, pig manure can be applied, but other types of manure are preferable.

Silt deposits of fresh water should be applied on sandy soils at the rate of 3-4 kg per 1 m2. With a lack of magnesium on sandy soils, potassium magnesia can be applied, the norm is different in each individual case.

sandy soils

These soils have many of the qualities of sandy soils, but they are more suitable for cultivation and cultivation of cultivated plant species. Their main advantages are water and air permeability, the ability to absorb and retain moisture. They conduct oxygen well and quickly absorb water when moistened. Their powerful capillary system then easily transports moisture, air and minerals to the plant roots.

Sandy loamy soils hold excellent thermal energy and nutrients needed for the life support of microorganisms and plants, so they can be considered a favorable environment for the growth and development of the root system of horticultural and vegetable crops.

To increase fertility in sandy soils, peat must be regularly applied, as it binds the solid particles that make up the soil. To normalize the microflora of sandy loamy soil, rotted manure, humus or compost, as well as minerals should be added during spring or autumn digging of the site.

Decomposed cow dung on sandy loamy soils is applied every 2-3 years, embedding is not very deep. Sheep, goat and horse dung on such soils, in principle, it is not recommended to use.

Humus is best applied when planting trees, shrubs and flower crops, spending an average of 2-3 kg per 1 m 2.

Mineral fertilizers must be used often, but in small quantities, this is how they will bring greater effect. Nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizer can be used on any type of soil, but in this case it is better to apply it in the spring. In addition, azofoska can be used, as it gives a good effect on sandy and sandy loamy soils.

Peaty-marshy soils

Peaty-marshy soils for the most part contain components of organic origin, as well as a large amount of nitrogen in a form unsuitable for absorption by plants. Almost all peat-marshy soils are poor in potassium and phosphorus. The exception is peat-vivianite soils, the main element of which is phosphorus, but also in a form inaccessible to the root system of horticultural and horticultural crops.

Peaty-marshy soils are different high level water and air permeability, but for the most part they are excessively humid and poorly warmed up. The structure of such soils is similar to foam rubber - they quickly absorb moisture and just as quickly give it away.

Measures for the cultivation of peat-marshy soils should be aimed at improving their physical and chemical qualities. To normalize the structure and increase the level of porosity of peat-marshy soils, clay flour, compost or coarse sand can be added. The choice of components for each case is individual, since there are no two identical soils. It is also necessary to normalize the process of decomposition of organic elements so that nitrogen is released and transformed into a form that is assimilable by plants. This goal can only be achieved by creating favorable conditions for the development of soil microflora, regularly feeding the soil with microbiological substances, compost, sawdust, slurry and manure.

In addition, when cultivating peat-marshy soils, it is necessary to apply potash and phosphorus fertilizers. For example, DAFC is ideal for use on peaty soils that are well supplied with nitrogen, but poor in phosphorus and potassium. This fertilizer can be applied in advance, at a full dose, without fear of loss of nitrogen from leaching. On peat-marshy soils, the introduction of azofoska gives a good effect. When processing peat-vivianite soils, the amount of phosphate fertilizers should be halved.

Molybdenum fertilizers have a positive effect on peat-marshy soils.

If necessary, it is better to apply copper fertilizers on peat-marshy soils at intervals of every 4-6 years in the fall for digging or in the spring 15-20 days before sowing. The application rate is 40-50 g per 1 m 2 .

Podzolic soils

Podzolic soils are formed on the basis of rocks various kinds. Within the territory of middle lane In Russia, soddy-podzolic soils are most often found, which were formed under pine-larch, coniferous-small-leaved and coniferous-broad-leaved forests with forbs and mosses, therefore they consist of several horizons. The upper layer is a forest litter up to 7 cm thick, under it is a transitional organomineral, humus layer 3 to 20 cm thick, and below it is a podzolic layer located on a litter of clay soils or loam.

The upper horizons of podzolic soils are acidic or strongly acidic. They are characterized by low fertility, since they contain from 1 to 7% of humic substances. Soddy-podzolic soils also belong to acidic soils, but contain slightly more (from 7 to 9%) humus components. The layer of the humus horizon in these soils has a thickness of no more than 10-20 cm, and most of the nutrients are in a form inaccessible to plants.

Soddy-podzolic soils can be improved by regulating the water-air regime with the help of peat, humus and compost. Next, you need to increase the thickness of the humus layer at autumn processing through liming, as well as regular application of organic and mineral fertilizers. In addition, poorly cultivated soddy-podzolic soils contain little potassium and phosphorus.

Since manure is alkaline, it can alkalize the soil, balancing its acidity. On heavy compacted podzolic and soddy-podzolic soils, horse, sheep and goat manure can be used. Typically, such soils warm up slowly, and the decomposition of organic matter in them occurs slowly, as a result of which they receive the necessary heat. It is possible to introduce more accessible cow dung into them, while on heavy, damp and compacted soils this should be done once every 3-4 years. On lighter soils, mullein is applied every 2 years.

From mineral fertilizers you can make:

A precipitate that tends to alkalize the soil, thereby reducing its acidity;

Phosphorite flour, which works well on acidic soils;

Sodium nitrate, which is an alkaline fertilizer and effective on acidic soils;

Calcium nitrate, which is an alkaline fertilizer and effective on acidic soils;

Carbonate nitrophoska, which does not contain water-soluble phosphorus and is used on acidic soils as the main fertilizer;

Dolomite powder, suitable for all plants on medium and slightly acidic soils.

Of the trace elements in podzolic soils, it is useful to apply molybdenum fertilizers.

Universal fertilizers for different types of soils

Exist universal fertilizers, which without prior preparation can be used on many types of soil:

Humus used for the preparation of greenhouse soils, potting and soil mixtures for growing seedlings, seedlings, mulching, adding to the soil as organic matter;

Superphosphate suitable for all types of soil without exception;

Ammophos, suitable for all types of soil without exception;

Azofoska, suitable for all types of soil, without exception, in various climatic zones;

Ammonium sulphate suitable for neutral or alkaline soils. Some mineral fertilizers tend to increase the acidity of the soil, so it is recommended to carry out liming on acidic soils before applying them. This type includes:

Urea (800 g of slaked lime per 1 kg of fertilizer);

Ammonium nitrate (700 g of slaked lime per 1 kg of fertilizer);

Ammonium sulfate (1 kg of slaked lime per 1 kg of ammonium sulfate).

❧ Color is one of the main morphological characteristics of the soil, as it depends on chemical composition soil, the degree of its moisture and features of the process of soil formation.

A special place among complex and combined fertilizers is occupied by nitrophoska, which has a certain ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. When applied, some adjustment is often necessary, as different soils contain different amounts of individual nutrients. The need of plants for these substances is also different, therefore, when fertilizing, one or another missing element will have to be additionally introduced in the form of simple fertilizers.