Fertilizer nitrogen phosphorus potassium name. Organic nitrogen fertilizers. Chemical composition of different types of peat

What mineral fertilizers do the garden need?
Not everything can be listed in one answer. But the most important are macronutrients contained in nitrogen, phosphorus and potash fertilizers.
In addition to them, there are fertilizers containing trace elements, and mixed (complex) mineral fertilizers, including both those and other elements.

Phosphate fertilizers

What fertilizers contain phosphorus?
The best of them are phosphate rock and superphosphate.

Especially good is granular superphosphate, which contains 48% phosphorus.

It is effective in spring application, but also gives in autumn nice results, eliminating the deficiency of phosphorus in the root layer of fruit and berry plants. Do not just mix phosphorus-containing mineral fertilizers with chalk or lime.
The latter bind phosphorus into hard-to-reach compounds, depriving the roots of nutrition.
In areas, phosphorus mineral fertilizers are best scattered before digging the soil. In summer, for top dressing, superphosphate can be infused in water for 50–70 hours; double superphosphate for digging they also add dry 75 100 g per 1 m2 under berry crops. Single superphosphates require double dosage.
Why do fruit plants need phosphorus?
Phosphate fertilizers stimulate flowering, fruit formations, improve the quality of fruits and berries, and increase yields. In seedlings, phosphorus activates the growth of the root system.
What to do with the sediment that does not dissolve in water during the preparation of liquid top dressing?
It is carefully separated from the liquid and watered with compost fertilizers, and the top layer is used for top dressing. It is quickly absorbed by the root system.
What are the features of making phosphate rock and precipitate?
These fertilizers, as well as bone meal rich in phosphorus, should be applied once every 3-4 years in increased doses, as they are slowly absorbed, remaining in the soil for a long time in insoluble compounds. Defluorinated phosphate is also referred to hard-to-reach phosphorus-containing fertilizers.

potash fertilizers

Are all potash fertilizers equally suitable in gardens?
The worst are sylvinite, carnalite, kainite, as well as 40% potassium salt containing chlorine. The pear still tolerates them, the plum, apple tree, black currant are disliked, and strawberries, red currants, raspberries and gooseberries are sharply ignored, not digesting chlorine.
The best of them: potash (potassium carbonate), potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate), potassium magnesia. Chlorine does not accumulate in wood ash, which exhibits all useful qualities potash fertilizers. This is especially noticeable on acidic soils.
When and how to feed gardens with potassium?
It depends on the type of mineral fertilizer. If you only have chlorine fertilizers at your disposal, best term potassium application - autumn. This allows you to flush out toxic chlorine from the root layer in the garden in advance.
For tillage, potassium is applied either annually or in an increased dose once every 3-4 years. If the soils are sandy, sandy or peat bogs, potash fertilizers are applied in the spring, in loam and clay - in the fall.

Potash fertilizers are especially useful in the northern horticultural zones, as they increase the ability of fruit plants to tolerate too low temperatures.

nitrogen fertilizers

What mineral fertilizers contain nitrogen?
Urea (carbamide), calcium, sodium, ammonia, potassium and other nitrates are considered the best among nitrogen-containing macronutrients. But a special place is occupied, of course, by ammonium nitrate, in which nitrogen is 1/3. Ammonium nitrate acidifies the soil solution. On acidic soils, it is undesirable without liming. This fertilizer is incompatible with phosphate rock and superphosphate. Solution of 10 g ammonium nitrate on a bucket of water perfectly activates the growth of seedlings in the nursery, flower seedlings, rooted cuttings of berry and fruit seedlings, if they are sprayed with foliage in the summer. This saltpeter works even better when applied to the soil for root feeding in the 1st half of summer. Ammonium nitrate quickly dissolves in water and is absorbed by the root system, but even in dry form it is quite effective if it is applied for digging at 10 or 30 g (for larger plants) per 1 m2.
Where is more nitrogen?
A lot of nitrogen in urea (urea) - 46%, it is used not only for feeding, but also for disease control - powdery mildew and scab. This is one of the best nitrogen fertilizers for spraying leaves experiencing a lack of nitrogen during the period of active growth of shoots.
What nitrogen fertilizers can be applied on acidic soils?
Sodium and calcium nitrate are most suitable. True, the nitrogen content in them is not more than 15–16%, but the dosage can be increased, compared to ammonium nitrate, by about 2 times. Sodium and calcium nitrates are used for top dressing for the main application in the spring for digging.
Are there any toxic nitrogen fertilizers?
Unfortunately, there is. These are primarily chlorine-containing mineral components that cause chlorosis and various physiological abnormalities in most blackcurrant varieties. Excess chlorine adversely affects many, not only berry, but also fruit plants. Do not use ammonium chloride in the garden and berry fields, it is especially toxic.
What are the features of applying nitrogen mineral fertilizers depending on the season?
It is advisable to apply nitrogen fertilizers twice during the growing season. The first time (half the dose) in the spring, and the remaining half in early summer. The delay in the introduction of nitrogen is fraught with many backfire: the growing season is prolonged, the wood ripens poorly, which leads to winter freezing, and sometimes to the complete death of overfed bushes and trees is not enough winter-hardy varieties. The exception is ammonium sulfate, it can be applied on clay soils even in late autumn.

Nitrogen fertilizers left on the soil surface quickly lose their nutrients.

Immediately after spreading fertilizers on the surface of wet earth, it must be repaired, at least to a shallow depth. If there has been no rain and watering for a long time, immediately after spreading fertilizers, abundant watering should be carried out, which will allow nitrogen to penetrate into the soil. It is necessary to scatter fertilizers as evenly as possible so as not to cause burns to the root system.
Nitrogen fertilizers are consumed by the roots during the year or almost completely go into the lower layers of the soil, therefore they must be applied annually.

Ash

Can ash replace nitrogen, phosphorus and potash fertilizers?
Nitrogen does not remain in the ash during the combustion of wood. But potassium, phosphorus, calcium and even some trace elements are stored in a form that is easily accessible to fruit and berry crops. We are talking only about the ash obtained from the combustion of hardwood.
How long can ash be stored?
Phosphorus, potassium and calcium are stored for many years if moisture does not get into the powder. But fresh ash, of course, is insured against waterlogging, so it must be added as it is removed from the stove, because plants need these minerals throughout the growing season. And under young seedlings and seedlings, it can be scattered even on an ice crust in early spring, and the ash, dissolving in melt water, will gradually reach the roots, which work even at zero temperature on the soil surface.

When is the best time to apply ash?
Of course, in spring, plants need more food, especially on light soils. You can feed them in early spring, and on medium and heavy soils, autumn ash will do.
But, since almost half of the ash is calcium, large doses of it in areas with an alkaline reaction can reduce acidity, which not all plants like.
Is the ash harmful to plants that show an acute allergy to chlorine-containing substances?
On the contrary, ash is especially good for them, since it contains practically no chlorine.

Complex fertilizers

What is a complex fertilizer?
This fertilizer, including nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in different ratios in relation to different cultures and plant varieties. Almost all complex fertilizers contain nitrogen. The exception is potassium metaphosphate. Some do not contain potassium, such as granular ammophos, nitrophos, several brands of carboammophos and nitroammophos granular. Phosphorus is found almost everywhere, with the exception of potassium nitrate.
What complex fertilizers are most common?
Every year brings new types of complex mineral fertilizers. Of the sufficiently proven ones, they stand out: nitroammophoska, carboammophoska, flower mixture, tableted and granular mortar with a full range of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium; fruit and berry mixture, Riga mixture, enriched with the most important trace elements; vegetable mixture, vitoconcentrate, stimulus 1 without chlorine and ZhKU (liquid complex fertilizer without impurities of chlorine-containing components), etc. The percentage composition of various nutrients is clearly distributed in all complex fertilizers. Can you change it yourself? Of course, it is possible and necessary if the fruit and berry culture requires it. If any element is contained in a small amount, you can add a simple fertilizer, where there is more of it.

Is it possible to apply complex fertilizer in the fall?
It is best to do this in the spring, as almost all complex fertilizers include nitrogen. If nitrogen is absent, it can be applied in the fall.

What is a solute?
It's complex mineral fertilizer. In granular form it contains 20% nitrogen, 10% potassium and 16% phosphorus. Tableted solution with magnesium additives includes 10% nitrogen, 18% potassium and 6% phosphorus. There is no chlorine in the solution, all components are easily absorbed by plants both in protected and in open ground. New forms of solute are sometimes enriched with the most important trace elements. The mortar is successfully used for the main application in spring and for summer top dressing.
What fertilizers are used for liming soils with excessive acidity?

Under the digging of the earth in spring or autumn, they take slaked lime, dolomite flour, ground chalk, lime tuff, carbide lime, cement dust, blast-furnace slag, bone meal, marl, lake lime, open-hearth slag, etc.

The acidity of the soil can be visually determined by some external signs and the presence of acid-loving plants. Where the soil is acidic, red clover and sweet clover do not grow. But heather, creeping ranunculus, sorrel, horsetail, tricolor violet, fragrant spikelet and pike are right there. About soils with moderate and somewhat hyperacidity nettle and quinoa will tell.

Do I need to lime the soil every year?
On light-textured soils, liming is carried out once every 6–7 years, and on loamy and clayey soils even less frequently (every 8–10). Calcium is annually pulled out of the soil by the roots of plants, acidifying the soil and some mineral fertilizers.
But if the soil maintains an acidity level (expressed in conventional pH units) from 5.5 to 6, re-liming is not done.
How much calcium should be applied to the soil during liming?
It depends on the mechanical composition of the soil and the level of acidity (pH). On very acidic soils, where the pH is 3.8-4 per 1 m2, the following amount of ground limestone is applied (in grams): peaty lands - 400-600, clay - 1050-1450, heavy loams - 950 1050, medium and light loams - 650–900, sandy loam - 550–700, least of all on sandy soils - 400–450.
On medium acid, with a pH of 4.6–5, peat bogs require 100–200 g, clayey – 550–650, heavy loam – 500–600, medium and light loam – 300–500, sandy loam – 200–300, sandy – 150– 250. Soils with a pH of 5.1–5.5 are considered slightly acidic. With this level of acidity, peatlands can not be limed, 450–500 are applied on clay soils, 200–350 on medium and light loams, 150 on sandy loams, and 100 on sandy ones.
For rough calculations, you can remember that if you add only 50 g of calcium in the form of ground limestone, then the pH will increase by 0.12 in loamy soils and by 0.2 in sandy loamy soils.
There is another category of soils in terms of acidity, where the pH ranges from 4.1–4.5, these are strongly acidic soils, they require the application of lime in intermediate intervals between very acidic and moderately acidic soils.

organic fertilizers

What is more important for the garden: mineral or organic fertilizers?
They complement each other, increase efficiency, but organic fertilizers are fundamentally more important. They have a more active effect on soil fertility, strengthening its structure, restoring optimal physico-chemical characteristics, accumulating humus, without which the plant has nothing to do in the ground.

Organic fertilizers improve the supply of water and dissolved nutrients to the root system and mitigate harmful acidity.

What types organic fertilizers used on garden land?
Fresh manure, humus, bird droppings, slurry, feces, peat, composts, silt, rotted green mass of clover, lupine and other crops (a crop that is sown in the garden for use as green manure after preliminary grinding and application to the soil).

What is sapropel?
This is an organic fertilizer extracted from the bottom of lakes and other bodies of water. Organic deposits in stagnant reservoirs, turning into rotting silt, accumulate a huge amount of useful for garden and berry crops. nutrients. It can be composted with slurry and mineral fertilizers.

Is it possible to use fertilizers of the Darina series in the garden, what are they?
"Darina" is a highly concentrated organomineral fertilizer based on raw materials from sapropel. "Darina" contains a high percentage of humic acids, potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus and trace elements. It can be applied throughout the growing season, getting a noticeable increase in yield.

What are the new environmentally friendly products that increase the effectiveness of organics in the garden?
One of them is EM (effective microorganisms). It practically eliminates the use of mineral fertilizers and some pesticides in the garden and berry fields. The preparation added to the compost accelerates the biological processes of its maturation (only 30-60 days).

A set of 80 microorganisms, non-toxic to humans, plants and animals. It can be applied at any time during the growing season of fruit and berry crops, but the greatest effect is obtained after autumn use.

By increasing soil fertility, EM increases the yield and resistance of plants to pests and diseases. Harvest ripening starts 2 weeks earlier than with traditional technology.
The drug is produced in liter bottles with instructions. The prepared mixture is sprayed on the soil, where microorganisms are introduced that actively process organic compounds into humus. EM is not afraid of overwintering, mobile works on soils requiring radical restoration of fertility. To process a summer cottage, 3 liters of EM is enough.
Is it possible to speed up the preparation of compost?
Compost, consisting of manure, peat and plant residues, matures much faster if it is shoveled and moved to another place several times a season. Do not forget to moisten the mass with warm (40-45 ° C) water. Add 2 kg of mullein to a bucket of water. It is enough to pour 3–4 buckets onto a pile with compostable mass.

How to fertilize orchards and berry fields with bird droppings?
Bird droppings is a concentrated fertilizer that can cause burns to the root system if used carelessly. It is advisable to use it for top dressing, diluting with water, 20 times the dry weight and 10 times fresh chicken manure. Diluted fertilizer should be quickly applied to the soil before the nitrogen begins to evaporate.
Under berry crops in spring summer period at obvious signs lack of nitrogen (when the leaves on the tops of young shoots become pale green) add 2 liters of solution.
Dry litter is brought in for digging at 0.5 kg per 1 m2 of the trunk circle.
What herbs can be used to make green feed mix?
Many herbs are suitable for green dressing: plantain, dandelion, wood lice, nettle, mother and stepmother, white mustard.
How to use TMAU fertilizers?
TMAU - peat-mineral ammonia fertilizers (sometimes - TMAUZ, this is a factory form of fertilizers), obtained by mixing peat chips with ammonia water, phosphate rock, potassium chloride and other potassium analogues, as well as with superphosphate. TMAU willingly consume all fruit and berry plants. It is enough to add 1–2 kg of TMAU nutrient mixture per 1 m2.
Why is it not recommended to fertilize orchards and berry fields with pure high-moor or lowland peat?
Both peat and peat are not fertilizers without various additives. Sometimes, on light sandy and heavy clay soils, high-moor peat is applied only for mulching or to give the land better physical qualities. From such peat, the plant has practically nothing to take for food. High peat acidifies the soil; to neutralize it, 4 kg of ash or at least 2 kg of lime are added per 100 kg.
Lowland peat is pre-ventilated to eliminate acidic substances harmful to berry growers and fruit trees.
Only the combination of peat with mineral and organic fertilizers in the form of manure, fecal matter, plant waste and trace elements dramatically increases its value as a fertilizer.

Are there standards or dosages for fertilizing with mullein and slurry?
The mullein is diluted with water 1:20. 2–3 matchboxes of superphosphate are added to 10 liters of diluted slurry, mixed and applied to the soil at 10 liters per 1 m2. The slurry is diluted with less water (ratio 1:3–5). Additives of superphosphate will also not damage the fertilizer, the dose per 1 m2 is 0.5 buckets.
Can it be applied to the soil eggshell and what does it give to plants?
Eggshell is a source of calcium, reduces soil acidity and is especially useful for plants on poorly cultivated peatlands. First of all, sea buckthorn, young plums, cherries, which react painfully to excess acidity, are fertilized with it.

Adding shells to compost The best way its use.

It is advisable to add raw eggshells, boiled eggshells are almost devoid of calcium and are useful only as a substrate. For 1 m2, it is enough to add shells from 100 eggs.

Does the straw, which is laid under fruit-bearing strawberries, provide additional nutrition to the bushes?
No, they lay straw to protect the berries from rotting when they come into contact with the ground. This is only mulching material on a strawberry bed.

Are sawdust a useful nutritious dish for the berry grower and garden?
sawdust in fresh very poor in nutrients, but the introduction of sawdust into the soil reduces the transpiration of water, the formation of a crust, improving the physical properties of the earth, in which there is a lot of heavy clay. The earth becomes looser, better absorbs moisture. It is advisable to pre-enrich sawdust with nitrogen, for which 3 buckets of sawdust are soaked with a glass of urea dissolved in a bucket warm water. Fertilize the soil in autumn.
In the spring, sawdust can be scattered around the planted winter or spring vaccinations to close the junction of the rootstock and scion from drying out. But it is not necessary to sprinkle the upper kidney of the grafted cutting. After successful grafting, the sawdust is raked and left next to the ennobled grafted plant.

How to deal with the accumulation of nitrates in fruits and berries?
Do not fertilize berry bushes and fruit trees with nitrogen fertilizers when the crop is ripe. If nitrogen enters the soil without phosphorus and potassium, the roots absorb everything they give, nitrogen compounds go in excess quantities. That's where the nitrates come from!
They then turn into nitrites, cause blood diseases, nervous system and even lead to cancer.

Fruit and berry plants with a strong root system accumulate less nitrates compared to vegetables and cereals.

Nitrates enter the fruits and berries only if the roots cannot cope with the processing of nitrates in the ground as they are received. Do not add too much nitrogen: 20 g of active ingredient per 1 m2 of area is already the limit. Combination of organic and mineral fertilizers, regular watering and a normal light regime will help the plant avoid the accumulation of nitrates in fruits and berries.

Do fruit plants have favorite nutrients during the growing season?
Raspberries love nitrogen and potassium, currants and sea buckthorn are not indifferent to phosphorus, red and white currant, as well as gooseberries, have a weakness for potash fertilizers.
Strawberries consume a little of everything, but slightly more potassium than nitrogen and phosphorus.
Another thing fruit crops. They need just a little more, and first of all nitrogen and potassium. With a lack of food, trees absorb their emergency supply from various tissues and organs until the balance is restored. necessary fertilizers in the soil and in the root system.
Have new types of fertilizers for the garden and berry growers appeared in recent years?
Yes. This is a new root mixture - an effective complex organo-mineral fertilizer obtained on the basis of disinfected chicken manure. Its important feature is the absence of chlorine, but it contains all the main macro- and microelements that act for a long time after feeding fruit trees and berry plants. Within 6–8 months, no other fertilizers are required. The assimilation of nutrients by the root system increases more than 2 times.

This fertilizer simultaneously provides food for both inter-row vegetable and flower plants in the garden.

To prolong the period of plant nutrition, the root mixture is scattered over the surface of the soil, and without mixing with the surface layer of soil with a rake, after which it is watered.
In protected ground, seedlings are fed at the rate of 100 g of the mixture per 1 m2, preferably before planting a greenhouse or greenhouse crop. For strawberries, it is useful to apply in spring or autumn 1 g of fertilizer with water under each bush, 1 liter per 5 plants. Currants, gooseberries and raspberries are fertilized by adding 50–70 g of the mixture under a bush, and each plant is watered with 2 liters of water.
Mature fruiting trees require 120-150 g per 3 liters of water each trunk circle autumn or spring. If it is necessary to achieve a quick supply of nutrients to the root system, a liquid mixture is prepared from 70 g of fertilizer diluted with 10 liters of water, and after 3 days of infusion, the plants are fed. The sediment, consisting of lime and organic components, is evenly distributed on the soil.
Can biohumus replace peat-manure composts and other organic fertilizers?
Yes. Biohumus is more compact, does not have bad smell, very effective, not subject to decomposition when low temperatures, does not need special storage conditions, it is convenient for making soil.
For 4 acres, it requires 60–70 kg. It does not cause the accumulation of harmful nitrates in fruits and berries. Products grown on biohumus are better stored and have an attractive presentation. The root system, in contact with biohumus, spends less energy and time to absorb the necessary elements. Biohumus restores roots injured during transplantation. Particularly beneficial regenerating effect of biohumus on young plantings of strawberries, rooted cuttings of black currant, gooseberries, cuttings of roses, honeysuckle, etc.

Why are earthworms needed?
They recycle dead plant matter into organic matter, accumulating humus in the soil unless disturbed. The fact is that mineral fertilizers, pesticides and other pesticides, which in huge number fall into the ground, exterminate earthworms. Without worms, manure application is ineffective, since it becomes very difficult to increase soil fertility. It is estimated that if there are 50 individuals per 1 m2, they pass up to 50 tons of soil in terms of 1 ha for 200 days of productive work under conditions middle lane. It is incomparable to anything.
You can also independently engage in the reproduction of earthworms in your garden. It is only necessary to find such foci where a lot of earthworms have accumulated in the soil, and gradually transfer them together with clods of earth into pre-prepared holes near trees and shrubs.
From above, the clods are covered with manure, peat compost, or, at worst, sawdust, so that the worms become more active. After all, about 2 million of these irreplaceable workers coexist perfectly on 1 hectare.

trace elements

What are these macro- and micronutrients for the garden? What is the result of their deficiency or excess?
Macronutrients are the main nutrients for fruit plants, which include primarily nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Plants absorb them in large quantities, hence the name - "macro". Trace elements are equally important, but they are required in relatively small doses.
It is necessary to understand what is the reaction of fruit plants to a lack or excess of nutrients. With a low content of nitrogen fertilizers in the soil, the growth of roots and shoots weakens or completely stops, early leaf fall is observed, flowering decreases, and productivity decreases. An excess of nitrogen is accompanied by a violent growth of branches due to the inhibition of flowering and fruiting.
The lack of phosphorus is accompanied by a deterioration in the quality of fruits, they acquire excess acidity, and poorly form seeds. At the same time, all the characteristic symptoms of nitrogen deficiency appear. An excess of phosphorus leads to premature ripening of fruits, makes it difficult to absorb elements of iron, zinc and potassium from the soil.
Potassium deficiency is detected when brown stripes and spots appear on the edges of the leaf blade and on the tips of the leaves. Fruits stop growing, not reaching normal sizes; the accumulation of sugars and other nutrients slows down dramatically. Excess potassium leads to impaired absorption of magnesium, calcium, and sometimes manganese. On soils poorly supplied with trace elements of magnesium, iron, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, fruit plants suffer no less. Take away only magnesium from them - and the leaves will begin to wither and die off in the summer, the leaf blades will become light yellow (the phenomenon of chlorosis). An excess of magnesium inhibits the process of calcium accumulation.

Gardens on soils with high acidity need magnesium, its deficiency is repaid by the introduction of dolomitic limestone or kieserite. But liming of carbonate soil is not carried out - this can damage the trees, especially if the soil is heavy in texture. In this case, spraying with a 1.8% solution of magnesium sulfate should be carried out.

Many soils are not able to provide orchards and berry fields necessary quantity zinc. It is applied in early spring, before the buds begin to grow. It is especially important to feed with zinc those plants that are sick with rosette.
The trees are sprayed with a solution of zinc sulfate at a concentration of 3-6%, after 3 years the concentration can be reduced to 1.5% if the leaf rosette disappears completely.
Zinc deficiency is easy to detect in the middle of summer, by this time it is clearly seen that the distance between the leaves is significantly reduced, the internodes are short, the shoots resemble rosettes with small leaves, then the leaves are affected by chlorosis and die off on the branches. Such death is also observed with an excess of zinc, so the dosage of this microelement must be carefully controlled. The high content of zinc entails failures in the absorption of iron.
Often on alkaline soils with low acidity, adult apple trees suffer from iron deficiency. It is necessary to introduce chelates - the so-called intracomplex compounds of the trace element iron. Under 1 tree, 400–900 g of this substance is required. Complexes (iron DPTU) give a good effect.
Even the rich soils of the Central Chernozem Zone are often insufficiently supplied with copper. If it is noticed that the shoots began to dry out, do not hesitate to spray with copper sulphate, the concentration foliar feeding 0.2%. 1–4% Bordeaux liquid or suspensions of cuprosan and cupritox (0.5%) are also effective. If the drying of the shoots does not stop, spraying is repeated up to 3 times.
On light sandy soils blue vitriol can be applied directly to the soil, it's easier. But this technique cannot be mechanically transferred to heavy carbonate and other soils, where copper reserves in the ground are inactive and poorly accessible for fruit trees.
Excess copper is accompanied by insufficient accumulation of phosphorus.
Weak availability of boron is easily detected on fruits covered with a dense cork; corking passes to the veins of the leaves, the tops of the shoots dry out, the leaves quickly turn yellow and fall off.
An overdose of boron is accompanied by the appearance of a brown coating on the surface of aging leaf blades.
In the case of the death of the tops of the shoots, weak leaf growth and the occurrence of chlorosis, it is necessary to analyze the soil for the content of molybdenum. It is clearly not enough in the soil.
Sometimes external signs of a deficiency of nutrients fail. So, for example, signs of a lack of sulfur in the soil are the same as with a weak accumulation of nitrogen. Therefore, external observations are sometimes not enough to make a correct diagnosis, but the experienced eye of a gardener can always bring clarity.
You just need to take a closer look at the plants. On the apple tree, suddenly, in the midst of flowering, the pedicels began to dry out, no need to grab the sprayer: everyone is fighting pests! This lack of calcium in the soil destroys the flowers, and at the same time the tops of young shoots.

The vital activity of all organisms is based on four pillars: oxygen, hydrogen, carbon and nitrogen. Nitrogen is considered one of the main elements of life not only for humans, but also for all plants.

The main source of nitrogen for green crops is the land itself, but not every type of soil is equally saturated with nitrogen. The lack of this element is observed in sandy and sandy soils, therefore, in such conditions, fertilizers come to the rescue.

The main reserve of nitrogen in the soil is located in humus (5%). The more humus is in the ground, the more the layers are saturated with nitrogen, which, in turn, contributes to an increase in yield. Humus refers to persistent substances, since the process of its decomposition is very slow, the release of mineral salts also slows down.

As a result, only 1% of the 5% nitrogen in the earth is a mineral compound that dissolves in water and is readily available for consumption by crops.

Article plan

Nitrogen is not present in all organic compounds, it is not present in sugar, fiber, oils and starch. In amino acids and proteins, nitrogen is inapplicably present. It is an integral part of nucleic acids, which are considered the most important components of each cell, responsible for creating proteins and carrying hereditary information.

Chlorophyll, thanks to which crops absorb the energy of the sun, also contains nitrogen. It is found in various organic components (alkaloids, lipoids, etc.).

The vegetative organs of green crops contain nitrogen, maximum amount it accumulates in the first leaves. After the process of flowering and the appearance of fruits, nitrogen passes into the reproductive parts of plants, where it accumulates in the form of proteins. The process of seed maturation takes away all the nitrogen and vegetative organs, depleting them.

When a plant consumes an excessive amount of nitrogen, it is distributed to all organs, which is characterized by an abundant growth of the vegetative mass, and this can lead to a slowdown in fruit ripening and a decrease in the yield. A balanced nitrogen supply guarantees a high yield of good quality products.

Plants that consume a sufficient proportion of nitrogen develop normally, have large dark green leaves. Otherwise, crops wither, lose their attractiveness and give a poor harvest.

Varieties of nitrogen fertilizers

Nitrogen fertilizers are substances containing nitrogen compounds. All nitrogen-containing fertilizers are divided into several main groups.

1. nitrate fertilizers. These include sodium and calcium nitrate.
2. Ammonium. Ammonium are represented by ammonium chloride and ammonium sulfate.
3. Ammonium nitrate. These are complex nitrogen-containing top dressings, the most common representative of which is considered to be ammonium nitrate.
4. amide fertilizers. Urea is an amide fertilizer.
5. Liquid nitrogen fertilizers. Representatives of liquid dressings are ammonia water and anhydrous ammonia.

Nitrate fertilizers

Calcium nitrate Ca(NO3)2

Calcium nitrate is white granules containing about 15-17% nitrogen. It interacts well with acidic soils. With the constant introduction of calcium nitrate, an improvement in the properties of podzolic acidic soils is observed. The substance is highly soluble in water. For storage of granules the bags which are not passing moisture are used.

Calcium nitrate is forbidden to combine with phosphorus dressings.

Sodium nitrate NaNO3

Sodium nitrate is a crystalline fertilizer with 16% nitrogen content. Soluble in liquids. Saltpeter is perfectly absorbed by plants and is suitable for any culture. Root crops are most susceptible to saltpeter, the leader in digestibility is sugar beet.

The use of sodium nitrate makes soils more alkaline. Top dressing is strictly prohibited to make in autumn period because nitrogen is washed into groundwater. The hygroscopicity of a substance requires certain conditions, content is possible in dry rooms.

Ammonium fertilizers

Ammonium sulfate (NH4)2SO4

Ammonium sulfate is white color powder containing 21% nitrogen. It is used as the main fertilizer and secondary feed. It is allowed to make it in the fall, because it is normally fixed in the ground and is not washed away by water flows.

It oxidizes the earth, so it is often mixed with chalk or lime in a ratio of 10:12. Not whimsical in storage, since it practically does not absorb moisture from environment. Ammonium sulphate should not be combined with alkaline supplements because there is a risk of nitrogen deactivation.

Ammonium chloride NH4Cl

Ammonium chloride consists of 25% nitrogen and has the appearance of a white, sometimes with a yellowish tint powder. Physical properties distinguish this fertilizer from other dressings. Ammonium chloride is not washed out of the ground, does not cake during storage and normally dissipates without prior grinding. Plants easily consume nitrogen from ammonium chloride.

The disadvantage of the substance is the presence of chlorine in it. When 100 kg of nitrogen enters the soil, 250 kg of chlorine also enters the soil, which is extremely harmful to green crops. Therefore, ammonium chloride should be applied to the soil only in autumn to neutralize chlorine, but in this case, a partial loss of nitrogen is ensured.

Ammonium nitrate (ammonium nitrate) fertilizers

Ammonium nitrate is presented in the form of a powder with a white tint, converted into granules with a mass fraction of nitrogen of 35%. It is used as fertilizer and auxiliary dressing. Saltpeter belongs to ballast-free substances and is often used in areas with a minimum level of moisture.

On highly moistened lands, ammonium nitrate is not as effective, since there is a risk of its leaching into groundwater.

You can not store ammonium nitrate in damp buildings and in simple bags, as it quickly absorbs moisture and cakes. In case of prolonged or improper storage, before applying fertilizer to the soil, saltpeter must be crushed in order to break stones with a high concentration of the active substance and evenly distribute top dressing over the entire area.

If it is necessary to create a mixture, it is first mixed with a neutralizing component (dolomite, chalk or), and only then is added.

Saltpeter increases the acidity of soils. At the first application, it is almost imperceptible, but in the process of constant use, the level of acidity increases. To prevent this effect, neutralizing components are added.

Now it is almost impossible to find pure ammonium nitrate; it is mainly sold only in the form of mixtures. The ideal mixture is top dressing, which contains 60% ammonium nitrate, and 40% neutralizing component, with this ratio, approximately 20% nitrogen is in the top dressing.

Amide fertilizers

Urea or urea is one of the highly effective fertilizers, unlike others, containing much more nitrogen - 46%. It has the appearance of granular white particles. The high acidity of the substance requires the use of neutralizing additives. The decomposition of urea in the soil occurs due to urease. Fertilizer is most often introduced as an external recharge.

Urea does not burn the foliage, but at the same time provides high yield. This fertilizer is great for both primary and secondary use.

There are 2 brands of urea: A and B. Brand A does not have a strong effect and is practically not used in crop production, most often it is used as a feed additive in animal husbandry, for cows, goats and horses. Grade B is an additive-treated urea that is used as a fertilizer.

Liquid fertilizers

Ammonia water is ammonia dissolved in water. Liquid ammonia comes in 2 types. The first ammonia contains from 20% to 25%, and the second less concentrated from 16% to 20%. Fertilization with ammonia water occurs due to special machines that introduce liquid into the soil to a depth of 15 cm.

Advantages of liquid fertilizers:

• Cheapness.
• Plants absorb fertilizer better.
• Extended exposure time.
• The same distribution over the entire area.

• Difficulties in transportation and storage ( liquid fertilizers not recommended for home storage).
• Leaves are burned.
• They are introduced into the ground only with the help of special equipment.

Organic nitrogen fertilizers

Nitrogen is also present in organic matter in small amounts. The nitrogen level ranges from 0.5% to 2.5%. Most of all (up to 2.5%) nitrogen is in bird droppings, which is considered the most toxic. Nitrogen is also in compost, which can be made at home. on your own from waste, lake silt, foliage, green mass or peat.

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The most correct is the complex use of dressings, which include organic and mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

Nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizers

Complex fertilizers, with nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, are often the main top dressing for plants. A complex of superphosphate is widely used, and or. When applying mixtures, it is necessary to take into account the growth phases of green crops, since a different ratio of substances is required for each period.

These 3 elements are the main components, but we must not forget that there are other substances, without which the normal development of plants is not possible.

What crops can be fertilized with nitrogen

All plants need nitrogen fertilizers, only the doses of application are different. According to the amount of nitrogen consumed, plants can be divided into several groups.

1. To the first group include plants that are fertilized in the spring immediately before planting in the ground and during subsequent growth. The required dosage is 25-30 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m² of sown area. Group 1 includes such crops: vegetables (potatoes, cabbage, peppers, eggplant, zucchini, rhubarb and pumpkin), berries and fruits (plums, cherries, raspberry bushes, strawberries and blackberries), flowers (roses, lilacs, dahlias, peonies, violets, panicled phloxes, balsams, carnations, nasturtiums, zinnias and others).
2. Cultures 2 groups need less nitrogen supplements than the plants in group 1. The required dose is 20 g per 1 m² of sowing area. The second group includes: vegetables (tomatoes, cucumbers, parsley, carrots, corn, garlic and beets), fruits and berries (apples, currants and gooseberries), flowers (almost all annuals and delphiniums).
3. The third group includes crops that require moderate nitrogen intake.. The third group includes such plants: vegetables (early potatoes, onions, leafy and radishes), fruits (pears), flowers (onion flowers, juniper, primroses, adonis, saxifrage and daisies).
4. The fourth group is plants that need a minimum amount of nitrogen. 7-8 g of ammonium nitrate is enough for 1 m². The fourth group includes: vegetables (spicy-aromatic crops, beans and peas), flowers (oriental poppy, Japanese azalea, young, heather, caustic stonecrop, erica, purslane, rhododendron and kosmeya).

Rules for applying nitrogen fertilizers

The normalized application of nitrogen fertilizers has a positive effect on the growth and development of all green crops, the amount of top dressing is calculated depending on the soil, plant and season of the year.

• When fertilizing the soil with nitrogen in the autumn-winter period, there is a high risk of it being washed out groundwater. Considering this, the best period spring is considered for most nitrogen fertilization.
• Qualitative indicators of consumption are increased due to the fractional introduction of substances.
• When fertilizing acidic soils, nitrogen is mixed with auxiliary components such as lime and chalk. This ratio provides more efficient absorption of fertilizers by plants.
• The steppe and forest-steppe areas have dry land, so the timely application of fertilizers is extremely important, as a delay can provoke a slowdown in growth and reduce crop yields.
• Chernozem is fertilized in early spring, 10 days after the snow melted.
• For maximum effect, it is recommended to use complex top dressing.

Many farmers first fertilize the land with urea, and after the onset of active vegetation, they apply ammonium nitrate.

How is the application of nitrogen fertilizers

Plants always show when they lack some element. With a lack of nitrogen, plants not only slow down in growth, but also begin to turn yellow, so yellow foliage is the main sign that it is time to apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers. The first sign of nitrogen deficiency is yellowing and drying of the tips of the leaves.

Harm of nitrogen fertilizers

Fertilizers not only bring benefits, but also harm. An excess of any elements adversely affects green crops. If your plants are growing out of time, and the soil has been fertilized with nitrogen-containing substances, then most likely a large amount of top dressing has been applied.

An excess of nitrogen can be determined by appearance, if the green mass develops rapidly, becomes lush and soft, but flowering does not occur and the ovary does not form, then we can safely say that the earth is oversaturated with nitrogen.

With a strong excess of nitrogen, foliage burns appear, and later their complete death. After the death of the foliage, it dies and root system. Therefore, it is extremely important to apply a rationed amount of nitrogen, since an overabundance will only harm your plants.

Conclusion

All plants need additional feeding, the main ones are nitrogen fertilizers and their complexes. The right combination components for fertilizing specific plants, provides maximum effect, full growth, stable development and a high yield percentage. Take care of your plants, enrich the soil with the necessary elements and get tasty, healthy and long-lasting fruits.

All information on nitrogen fertilizers on video

How to make nitrogen fertilizers with your own hands

Fertilizers are the gardener's most important weapon. It is by enriching the soil with various compounds that we can count on getting a good annual harvest from the same piece of land. However garden plants require a full range of mineral and organic additives, and the gardener has to navigate this variety quite well. Today we are interested in what these groups are, what they are and what effect they have on the growth and development of plants - we will consider all this in detail.

What is nitrogen

First of all, it is important for you to know that this is one of the most common elements on our planet. Without it, no living organism can exist, and this also applies to plants. Nitrogen is an important component of proteins and amino acids, nucleic acids. That is why the first commandment of the gardener says that he must regularly apply nitrogen fertilizers. What is it? We will talk about this below, but for now - a little more theory. The presence of a sufficient amount of nitrogen in the soil increases the yield, and its lack sharply reduces it. That is why garden plots that are operated every year need constant application of these substances. However, it must also be remembered that, despite the obvious usefulness, it should be used very sparingly. The fact is that an excess of this substance in the soil leads to increased growth of the vegetative system and the almost complete cessation of fruiting.

Why do plants need nitrogen?

We already know that good harvest cannot be obtained using only the natural resources of the soil. Therefore, it is extremely important to constantly replenish the supply of nutrients. Why is nitrogen fertilization so important? What substances it will be - organic or mineral - each gardener decides, depending on the time of year and previous top dressing, below we will consider the optimal schedule for top dressing. But while speech not about it. Nitrogen is part of the chlorophyll necessary for the absorption of solar energy. Lipoids, alkaloids and many other substances important for plant life are also rich in nitrogen.

Young stems and leaves are especially rich in nitrogen in spring, in the phase of active growth of the plant itself. As necessary, when new buds, leaves and stems appear, nitrogen substances rush to them. And after pollination, they pass to the reproductive organs, where they accumulate in the form of proteins. That is, it is extremely important to introduce nitrogen fertilizers into the soil in a timely manner. We will tell you in detail what these substances are, but for now, we note that if this rule is observed, the volume and quality of the crop is significantly increased. In particular, the protein in fruits becomes more valuable, and the horticultural crops grow much faster.

Types of fertilizers

We are smoothly moving on to the classification, which means we will tell you more about nitrogen fertilizers. "What are these?" you ask? First of all, an experienced gardener, of course, will remember the mineral, and this is not surprising. After all, it is them that we usually meet in specialized stores, under the appropriate sign. However, the list does not end there. There are also organic nitrogen fertilizers. These are primarily nutrients of plant and animal origin. It may come as a revelation to you, but manure contains about 1% nitrogen. There are other nitrogen fertilizers. What are these, for example? Yes, at least compost, in which, during the debate of garbage and peat, a 1.5% concentration of the substance we are considering is reached, and if green foliage is placed in the compost pit, then the above figure will increase to 2.5%. This is a lot, but there are others. organic top dressing, which easily overlaps these numbers. This is bird droppings that contains at least 3% nitrogen. However, we must not forget that such dressings are quite toxic, which means that they should not be carried away.

Liquid types of nitrogen fertilizers (ammonia group)

We continue to consider nitrogen fertilizers. The name of the chemical element - "nitrogen" - is translated as "life", from which we can conclude that without such substances the growth and development of green plantings is simply impossible. Let's first talk about the liquid forms of this fertilizer. Their production is much cheaper than the production of solid analogues, which means that you can save a lot when buying. And there are only three types of them that are available to any summer resident: these are anhydrous and ammonia. All of them have different concentrations, so it is important to clarify in advance which of the nitrogen fertilizers is richer in nitrogen than the others. It's definitely anhydrous ammonia. The additive is produced by liquefying ammonia under the influence of high pressure and contains at least 82% of the main substance.

Features of applying liquid nitrogen fertilizer to the soil

There are some nuances that need to be taken into account. It is easy and simple to apply such top dressings to the soil, however, losses of nitrogen can occur for a number of reasons. First of all, this is the evaporation of free, anhydrous ammonia. In addition, soil colloids instantly absorb nitrogen, and part of the fertilizer reacts with water and turns into ammonium hydroxide. It is best to apply this fertilizer to the soil in the fall, after saturating it with humus, which will reduce losses many times over.

Nitrate group

The liquid form is used quite often by small horticultural farms. If we talk about industrial scale, then here you need to additionally think about which nitrogen fertilizers are better to use. One of the most popular means is It is a versatile product that provides a quick effect. Fertilizer is sold in the form of white-pink granules. The nitrogen content in it reaches 35%, which is quite enough, given the high preservation of the active substance in the soil. Many gardeners assure: it is enough to purchase saltpeter, and your site will no longer experience a shortage of this element. It is introduced into the soil in early spring, because it is necessary precisely for a quick start and good development of plants. Approximate consumption - from 25 to 30 g / 1m 2. Moreover, you can independently prepare a liquid solution - for this you will need to dilute 20 g per 10 liters of water.

What other nitrogen fertilizers are there?

Ammonium nitrate group (ammonium sulfate)

This is another popular remedy that looks like crystallized salt. The nitrogen content in it is somewhat lower, about 21%. It can be applied to the soil both in spring and autumn, and depending on the intensity of the crop, one or two times the enrichment of the land per year can be varied. Fertilizer is not washed out of the soil, which means it provides a lasting effect. Many gardeners have noted a slight acidification of the soil with its regular use. It is necessary to introduce into the soil 40-50 g of the mentioned substance per 1 m 2.

Amide fertilizers

The brightest representative is carbamide. This is one of the main nitrogen-containing fertilizers (nitrogen concentration - 46%). As a rule, it is used in the spring, but on the heaviest soils it can also be applied in the fall. To do this, take 20 g per 1 m 2. But if you need to make a solution for spraying, then you can dilute from 30 to 40 g per 10 liters of water.

However, this is not all nitrogen fertilizers that exist today. The list continues with urea and calcium cyanamide. It should be noted that the most valuable, inexpensive and accessible means is urea. This is a highly concentrated fertilizer that can cause burns to plants, so you need to be extremely careful when applying it to the soil.

Application

Now you have figured out which fertilizers are nitrogenous, and we can talk a little more about how to use them on your suburban area. Do not forget that the time and amount of feeding directly depends on the type of soil and the lack of nitrogen in it. It should be borne in mind that when using a large amount of nitrogen-containing fertilizer, flowering occurs much later, and fruiting may not occur at all. What plants need to be fed with nitrogen? Absolutely everything except alfalfa and clover. However, each culture has its own nutritional requirements, and this must be taken into account.

Plants with high requirements for nitrogen fertilizers

These are cultures that are known to everyone and are widespread in our garden plots: cabbage and potatoes, pumpkin and zucchini, peppers and eggplant, as well as delicious rhubarb. When growing them, it is necessary to apply nitrogen both before planting and during the growing season. It is recommended to use at least 25 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m2. It is imperative to know what nitrogen fertilizers are if you are going to grow fruit crops such as raspberries and blackberries, strawberries, cherries and plums. It is very important to use these additives in full if you are going to plant decorative dahlias and phloxes, peonies and zinnias, violets and lilacs.

The second group: the average need for nitrogen

These are tomatoes and cucumbers, beets and carrots, garlic, corn and parsley. Among fruit and berry plants, currants and gooseberries, as well as apple trees, can be noted. Most annual flowers can be attributed to the same group.

When growing these crops, it is enough to apply nitrogen once a year - in early spring. This is enough to make the plants feel comfortable. It is recommended to apply no more than 20 g of saltpeter per 1 m 2.

Third group

These are plants with moderate nitrogen requirements. The recommended dose is 15 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m 2. This includes all leafy vegetables, onions and radishes, and early potatoes. Bright representatives of this group are all bulbous ornamental plants. Finally, the most undemanding are legumes (only 7 g of fertilizer per 1 m 2 is enough). This is not only peas and beans, but also ornamental plants, such as azalea, heather and many others.

Fertilization methods

In order for these substances to act on time, it is necessary to apply them correctly, and most importantly, to add them on time. For this, they are used different ways. The very first is spreading. It can be done both manually and with the help of this method. This method is used before sowing, since the fertilizer takes a long time to dissolve. The second is the tape method, in which ammonium nitrate or other mineral nitrogen fertilizer is applied in a narrow tape near plants on the soil surface or at a shallow depth. With a strong deficiency, spraying is used as an emergency measure. Finally, fertilizers come in liquid form, meaning you can use drip irrigation.

How to Diagnose Nitrogen Deficiency

We hope that now you will not be puzzled by the question "nitrogen fertilizers - what are they?" The photos presented on the page will demonstrate with greater clarity the whole variety of such dressings. However, it is very important to understand when the time has come to introduce them into the soil, and when the reason for poor growth is completely different. With a lack of nitrogen, growth inhibition and yellowing of the whole plant, especially its leaves, are primarily observed. You should also be concerned if the color of the plant has become pale yellow. The very first sign that should alert you is the yellowing of the edges of old leaves. Then they dry up and fall off.

Signs of excess nitrogen

Sometimes it is difficult to distinguish one from the other, that is, a lack and an overabundance of nutrients. Therefore, you need to start from what and in what quantities you applied to the soil, as well as from your observations of plants. First of all, an excess of nitrogen manifests itself in the fact that the green part of the plant becomes soft and lush, accelerates its growth, but flowering and ovary are usually far behind in time. If the excess of nitrogen is more significant, then leaf burns are observed, and then their complete death. Following this, the root system also dies.

Summing up

Thus, to optimize the nutrition of your plants, you can use organic matter (manure or bird droppings) or mineral fertilizers, which is usually more convenient. It can be (nitrogen content - 34%) or ammonium sulfate (21%). You may also need calcium (15%) and (16%). If the plants are severely deficient in nitrogen, or if you plan to plant those crops that are most demanding on it, then it is best to take urea (46%). Use fertilizer for correct proportion and just when they are most needed.

organic fertilizers- fertilizers containing plant nutrients mainly in the form of organic compounds. These include manure, composts, peat, straw, green manure, silt (sapropel), industrial and household waste, etc.

Organic fertilizers contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium and other plant nutrients, as well as organic matter, which has a positive effect on soil properties.

Organic fertilizers consist of substances of animal and vegetable origin, which, decomposing, form mineral substances, while carbon dioxide is released into the surface layer, which is necessary for plant photosynthesis. In addition, organic fertilizers have a beneficial effect on the water and air nutrition of plants, promote the development of soil bacteria and microorganisms that live in symbiosis with the roots. vegetable crops and help them get the nutrients they need. Organic fertilizers include manure, peat, compost, bird droppings, humus and other materials ....

Manure

This is the most valuable organic fertilizer. The manure of different animals contains on average (%): water 75, organic matter 21, total nitrogen 0.5, assimilable phosphorus 0.25, potassium oxide 0.6.

The quality of manure depends on the type of animal, its feed, bedding and storage method. So, when feeding pigs, a lot of concentrates are used, so the manure is different high content nitrogen, and in the diet of ruminants there are roughage- Their manure contains more potassium.

The best bedding material for manure is high-moor, slightly decomposed peat, but straw or sawdust is more often used. Horse manure on a straw bedding is indispensable on cold clay soils. It is best used as a biofuel for greenhouses. Cattle manure is less warm than horse manure because it contains more water. But this manure is indispensable on light soils. Pig manure is acidic; when using it, lime must be added. Rabbit manure contains all the substances necessary for plants. Its value increases when mixed with the manure of other animals and bird droppings. Nutria manure by chemical composition and physical properties differs sharply from the manure of other animals, so it can only be used in a fermented form, and even better added to composts. The compost heap can be periodically watered with a saturated solution of nutria manure, but to prevent nitrogen loss, superphosphate must be added (1.5-2 kg per 100 kg of compost). spring next year such compost can be applied to the soil.

There are four stages of manure decomposition. In slightly decomposed (fresh), the color and strength of the straw change slightly. Washing water acquires a reddish or green tint. In semi-mature manure, the straw becomes dark brown, loses strength and breaks easily. Water solution dark color. Manure at this stage loses 30% of its original mass. The rotted manure is a black smearing mass. Straw decomposes completely, manure loses 50% of its mass. Humus is a loose earthy mass. At this stage of decomposition, the loss of the initial mass reaches 75%.

Manure in the stage of lesser decomposition is introduced in the fall, more - in the spring. Fresh manure is undesirable. If there is not enough manure, then it is advisable to apply it in smaller doses, but over a larger area, for example, in holes. On cold soils, manure is covered to a depth of 10-15 cm so that it is covered with earth from above, on warm, quickly drying soils - to the full depth of the cultivated layer. Slurry (liquid part of cattle manure) - nitrogen- potash fertilizer. Due to the low content of phosphorus in slurry, it is useful to add superphosphate (15 g per 1 liter). This fertilizer is used for liquid top dressing, for which it is diluted with water, as well as for the preparation of peat-manure compost. Mullein (water infusion of cow feces) is often used for liquid top dressing, diluted with water (1:6 or 1:10). The solution is usually prepared in wooden utensils. If the solution is left for fermentation, then nitrogen quickly evaporates from it, so ammonium sulfate (10-20 g per 10 l) is added before use.

bird droppings

According to the chemical composition, bird droppings are among the best views organic fertilizers. Chicken and pigeon droppings are considered the most valuable, duck and goose droppings are considered less valuable.

With frequent manure application, nitrogen in the nitrate form accumulates in the soil, therefore this fertilizer it is better to close up in the fall, evenly distributing over the entire area. But bird droppings are most effective when used in liquid top dressings. To prepare the solution, the containers are half filled with droppings, then filled with water, closed with a lid and infused for 3-5 days. Next, the solution is diluted again with water (1:10).

Bird droppings contain: water - 56.6%, organic matter - 25, nitrogen - 4-6, phosphorus - 3.5-5, potassium oxide - 2.5-3.5, lime - 2.4%. Typically, the manure of chickens, ducks, pigeons and geese is used as fertilizer. Maximum effective fertilizer is pigeon droppings.

In the greenhouses of the Botanical Garden of St. Petersburg, a solution of pigeon droppings is prepared as follows. Litter is placed in a tub and filled with water (1 kg per 200 liters). Fermentation with daily stirring lasts 7-8 days. After the end of fermentation, the liquid is filtered and used for watering.

Peat

Peat contains few nutrients available to plants, but it increases the humus content and improves soil structure. The dark color of peat contributes to the absorption of heat and rapid heating of the soil.

According to the degree of decomposition, several types of peat are distinguished. Horse is distinguished by a low degree of decomposition of plant residues and high acidity. Lowland is characterized by a high degree of decomposition and less acidity. Transitional peat occupies an intermediate position between them.

Peat is collected in swamps, then laid out for ventilation or laid in a compost heap. Peat is brought in at any time of the year, even in winter in the snow. But we must not forget that lime must be added to it. In the garden, peat is best added to composts, as well as to soil mixtures for growing seedlings and protected ground.

Feces

Faeces are sewage from latrines. They are rich in minerals that are easily absorbed by plants.

However, the faeces in the pits quickly decompose, nitrogen quickly volatilizes from them. For better nitrogen retention at the bottom cesspool peat is poured with a layer of 20-25 cm. Then the feces are layered weekly with a small amount of peat. As a result, not only nitrogen is retained, but the fetid odor disappears. Before being used as a fertilizer, feces are composted to disinfect from worms, whose eggs die at a temperature of 45 ... 50 ° C.

Sawdust and tree bark

Sawdust is a cheap organic fertilizer that can significantly increase soil fertility, improve its air permeability and moisture capacity.

Only they should be applied not fresh, but rotted or mixed with other materials. To speed up the decomposition process, sawdust is piled up, moistened with water, slurry. You can mix them with fallen leaves and plant debris. It is useful to layer sawdust with earth. During the summer, the pile is shoveled twice, adding accumulated plant debris and nitrophoska. Due to the fact that the sawdust is acidic, lime or chalk is added to them (120-150 g per bucket).

Wood bark (waste from the woodworking industry) is composted before use. The bark with a moisture content of 75% is crushed into pieces 10-40 cm long, piled up and mineral fertilizers are applied (kg per 100 kg): ammonium nitrate 0.9, urea 0.7, sodium nitrate 2, superphosphate 0.2, ammonium sulfate 1 ,5. The pile is periodically stirred and moistened. After 6 months, the compost is ready for use.

siderates

This organic fertilizer is a high-stemmed plant mass plowed into the soil of annual or perennial leguminous plants (spring peas, spring vetch, broad beans, lupine, seradella), as well as phacelia, buckwheat, sunflower and others.

In their action, green manure is almost equivalent to fresh manure. The nutrients contained in the plant mass of green manure, getting into the soil and gradually decomposing, become available for subsequent crops, and the organic green manure helps to restore the soil structure. Some green manure crops (lupine, buckwheat, mustard) increase the solubility and availability of low-mobility soil phosphates for plants, and lupine can use hard-to-reach forms of potassium.

Depending on the degree of soil depletion, green manure is placed on the site all summer or as an intermediate crop. For example, they are sown after harvesting early vegetables. Sometimes winter peas or winter vetch are sown, in the spring after flowering, the mass is rolled or mowed and plowed, and the plot is leveled and sowing is carried out. In the garden, green manure is sown in continuous rows (row width 60-90 cm, row spacing 15 cm). Depth of placement of annuals legumes 5-6 cm, perennial - 3-4 cm. Post-sowing rolling is mandatory, especially perennial herbs. Siderats do not require care, but they grow better when watered.

Composts

Composts are made from various organic materials. Plant residues not affected by pests and diseases, feces, bird droppings, manure and other materials are piled in a loose pile (stack) on a flat surface, layered with soddy soil or peat.

The basis of the heap is a litter of leaves, sawdust or peat with a layer of 10-12 cm. Periodically, the heap is moistened with water or a solution of fertilizers, after 40-50 days the compost is mixed, and when its temperature reaches 60 ° C, it is compacted.

In summer, the compost heap is protected from the sun, in winter it is covered with earth or sawdust with a layer of 30-40 cm. After 8-11 months, the compost can be used. Weeds that have given seeds are composted separately, as they remain viable for about five years.

Vermitechnology- activities for the cultivation of compost earthworms on different substrates in different environmental conditions, the production and accumulation of their excrement (coprolites or biohumus) and worm biomass. The use of vermi technology on a scientific basis is a serious alternative to existing technologies for the disposal of all organic waste: animal manure, bird droppings, waste from woodworking, pulp and paper, fish, meat and food industries, waste from vegetable bases, shops, cafes and restaurants, household waste, sewage sludge, precipitation treatment facilities and etc.

Ash

In the ash, organic substances are absent due to combustion, but the ash substances present here are of organic origin and therefore are easily absorbed by plants.

Ash is a potassium-phosphorus-lime fertilizer. The content of nutrients in the ash varies depending on the sources of its production. In addition to potassium, phosphorus and lime, ash contains a small amount of sulfur, magnesium, boron and other trace elements. Potassium ash is highly soluble in water and alkalizes the soil. Therefore, ash is most effective in acidic soil conditions.

Silt accumulates at the bottom of ponds, lakes, rivers. It contains a lot of humus, nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. After a short ventilation, silt can be successfully used on sandy soils (3-9 kg per 1 m²).

Sapropel (from the Greek saprós - rotten and pelós - silt, mud) - muddy deposits of fresh water bodies containing a large amount of organic substances (lignin-humus complex, carbohydrates, bitumen, etc.) in a colloidal state.

In agriculture, sapropel is used as a fertilizer (after ventilation), especially on acidic and light sandy and sandy loamy soils (the dose for grain crops is 30–40 t/ha, for vegetables, potatoes and fodder root crops 6–70 t/ha), for preparing composts. Raw sapropel is extracted by lifts from the bottom of reservoirs and undergoes special preparation - drying or granulation.

The most valuable organic fertilizer for flower crops is rotted manure. Manure is a complete fertilizer as it contains all the essential nutrients needed by plants.

Complete fertilizers also include bird droppings, feces, slurry, rotted leaves, compost and other plant or animal waste. Ash is a particularly valuable fertilizer.

Manure

Manure contains all the nutrients necessary for plants, i.e., it is a complete fertilizer, but its quality largely depends on the type of animals, feed, bedding, methods and periods of storage, and other conditions.

Chemical composition fresh manure

The table shows that in terms of nutrient content, horse and sheep manure is richer than cattle manure.
When manure is stored, its composition changes.

The longer the manure is stored and better decomposed, the higher the percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other elements in it becomes.

However, it must be borne in mind that during the storage of manure, the total loss of nitrogen and organic matter from it usually increases.

On plots, manure is brought in in the fall.
To avoid the loss of valuable nutrients, it is necessary to incorporate manure into the soil immediately after spreading it.

Manure storage methods

Depending on the purpose and terms of use, manure is stored hot (loosely laid) or cold (tightly laid) in ways.

Manure is stored in a hot way to obtain humus, and also before spreading - in small piles (1-2 days).
For long-term storage manure is laid tightly and well tamped so that there is no air access. It can be stored in a trench (pit) or on the ground.
Trench depth - 50-70 cm, width - 150-200 cm, arbitrary length.

Peat, dry leaves, sawdust with a layer of 25-30 cm are laid at the bottom of the trench or platform to absorb the released slurry. As the manure arrives, it is stacked (like compost) and compacted well.

To reduce nitrogen losses, manure is sprinkled with peat (10-15 cm) in a layer of 30-40 cm.

To enrich manure with phosphorus and potassium, 5-6 kg of phosphate rock, phosphate slag, kainite, sylvinite are added per ton, wood ash. Stack height - 130-150 cm.
From above and on the sides, the stack is covered with turf (greens down), peat, sawdust with a layer of 20 cm

slurry

Slurry is a very valuable, fast-acting nitrogen-potassium fertilizer.
Data on the content of nutrients in the urine of animals and in slurry are shown in the table.

The chemical composition of slurry

It can be seen from the data in the table that slurry contains very little phosphorus.
Therefore, superphosphate should be added to it.

The best way to store slurry is to compost it with peat.

First of all, slurry can be applied as the main fertilizer for all plants, at the rate of 200-300 kg per 100 m.
It is also used for feeding all ornamental and vegetable crops (50-70 kg per 100 m2).
It is especially effective in nitrogen starvation of plants.

When top dressing, slurry is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 5 or 1: 7, depending on its concentration.

Feces

Faeces is a complete fertilizer, in terms of chemical composition it is of great value, they are applied in the form of peat-fecal composts. The high temperature that develops in warm weather in the compost contributes to the neutralization of feces from pathogens of infectious and helminthic diseases.

The chemical composition of feces

bird droppings

Bird droppings are a valuable, fast-acting complete fertilizer. To prevent loss of nitrogen, bird droppings should be stored mixed with peat powder.

The chemical composition of bird droppings

To prepare a complete fertilizer, take 5 g of dry litter and stir in 1 liter of water.
After 10 days of fermentation, the resulting solution is diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 1.

Peat

Depending on the conditions of formation, the following types of peat are distinguished: upland, lowland and transitional. High-moor peat usually has a low ash content and high acidity. Lowland peat, on the contrary, is rich in ash elements and has a slightly acidic or neutral reaction. Transitional peat occupies an intermediate position between upland and lowland peat.

Chemical composition of different types of peat

High-moor peat after pre-ventilation is used for making composts (with faeces, lime, ash and phosphorus flour) and as bedding. It is not suitable for direct use for fertilizer.

Lowland peat is also best used for compost and bedding, but it can also be applied directly as fertilizer.

Ash

In the ash, organic substances are absent due to combustion, but the ash substances present here are of organic origin and therefore are easily absorbed by plants. Ash is a potassium-phosphorus-lime fertilizer. The content of nutrients in the ash varies depending on the sources of its production.

Ash chemical composition (in %)

In addition to potassium, phosphorus and lime, ash contains a small amount of sulfur, magnesium, boron and other trace elements.

Potassium ash is highly soluble in water and alkalizes the soil.
Therefore, ash is most effective in acidic soil conditions.

Green fertilizers

In order to enrich the soil with organic substances in the garden in the second half of summer, various agricultural crops (green manure) are sown and in the fall, when they form the largest amount of green mass, it is embedded in the soil. Particularly valuable siderates are legumes and, first of all, lupins. On their roots there are nodule bacteria that bind atmospheric nitrogen and enrich the soil with it in a form accessible to plants.

Groups of organic fertilizers

Organic fertilizers can be divided into vegetable fertilizers (all kinds of vegetable flour), dry animal fertilizers, fish emulsion based fertilizers, human and animal excrement based fertilizers, natural (non-synthetic) mineral fertilizers and algae based fertilizers.

When describing fertilizers, we will use triplets of numbers called NPK, which represent the percentage of nitrogen (N), phosphorus §, and potassium (K) in the fertilizer.

We do not cover composts in this article, as composts are a big topic of their own. The main focus when considering composts is not the amount of macronutrients (they are usually very few), but the ability to improve soil structure. Composts are not rated by NPK, but by the C/N (carbon to nitrogen) ratio, which determines the time it takes for the organic matter of the compost to decompose in the soil.

All dry fertilizers must be mixed with the topsoil when applied. This can be done by digging up the soil with a shovel before planting, or loosening it with a cultivator after planting. Before and after fertilization, the soil must be watered abundantly. When fertilizing under bushes and trees, they must be scattered not around the trunk, but at a distance from the trunk, above which the branches end. Most of the young roots grow in this zone.

Organic fertilizers of vegetable origin

Alfalfa Meal Flour
NPK varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, for example 2.5-1-1 or 2-0.5-2. Despite its low NPK, this fertilizer is popular because organic farming proponents claim it contains growth promoters and vitamins A and B-1, which they say have a stimulating effect on plant roots or mycorrhiza fungi that are in symbiosis with roots. Rose lovers love to use alfalfa flour.

Cottonseed Meal
NPK 6–2-1 – Waste from cotton processing. It is formed after squeezing oil from cotton seeds. An indispensable fertilizer for acid soil plants - camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons. Cotton flour oxidizes the soil and slowly (3–4 months) releases the ratio of nutrients that is optimal for these plants. Cotton flour is also good for roses that love slightly acidic soil, but not recommended for, for example, bulbous flowers that do not like acidic soil.

Soybean Meal
NPK 7–2-1 – Waste from soybean processing. It is formed after squeezing oil from soybeans. Similar to cotton flour, but does not oxidize the soil like cotton flour. Just like cotton flour, it is a complete fertilizer (a fertilizer containing both nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), which releases nutrients gradually, without the risk of "burning" the plant.

Dry fertilizers of animal origin

Blood Meal
NPK 13-0-0 - Excellent source of fast nitrogen, leaves and twigs will grow quickly and become succulent green color. Like all fast-acting nitrogen fertilizers, blood meal can "burn" plants if not applied correctly - they can develop dark burns along the edge of the leaves. It is recommended to apply in the spring - once or twice, with an interval of 2 months, from the beginning of plant growth until flowering. Blood meal slightly acidifies the soil.
In small California towns, bloodmeal is used to scare off deer, which are garden pests, by eating plants.

Bone Meal from Cattle Bones
NPK varies - 3-12-0, 1-11-0, 3-20-0. Decades ago, bone meal sold to gardeners contained more nitrogen than it does today. This is because in the past, bone meal was made from raw bones, but now bone meal is made mainly from boiled bones.
Bone meal is widely used when planting bulbs of tulips, daffodils, gladioli and others. bulbous plants. It activates root growth, improves flowering and strengthens the bulb. Bone meal is mixed with the soil directly under the bulb when planting.

Bone meal is very useful in plant transplantation as it stimulates fast recovery root system after transplantation. It is very important to evenly mix the bone meal with the soil in landing pit. Unlike nitrogen compounds, bone meal phosphorus does not dissolve or move in the soil.

Bone meal is a slow-acting fertilizer, it nourishes the plants with phosphorus for a year after application. Bone meal is not recommended for plants acidic soil(azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons), as it alkalizes the soil. In addition, plants such as rhododendrons do not like a lot of calcium, which is found in excess in bone meal.

Fish bone meal (Fish Bone Meal)
NPK 3-16-0 - Works similarly to bovine bone meal, but appears to be less alkaline in the soil. The application rates are the same. Attracts cats.

Fish meal (Fish Meal)
NPK 10-4-0 - Unlike fish bone meal, fish meal is made from soft waste from the fishing industry and contains a large amount of nitrogen. Fishmeal decomposes in the soil in 6-8 months.

Hoof & Horn Meal
NPK 10-2-0 - A slow acting nitrogen fertilizer that does not scorch plants even when applied excessively. Nitrogen compounds arise from the slow decomposition of the protein keratin, which forms the basis of horns, hooves, hair, feathers and similar tissues. The horn and hoof meal decomposes in the soil in about three to four months. Therefore, it is reasonable to make it every two to three months, from spring to mid-late summer.

Feather Meal
NPK 12-0-0 - Slow-acting nitrogen fertilizer, similar to horn and hoof meal, but decomposing even more slowly.

Flour from the shells of crab and shrimp (Crab Meal, Shrimp Meal)
NPK 2-3-0 - In addition to nitrogen and phosphorus, it contains a lot of calcium (23%), magnesium (5%) and trace elements. Like all marine fertilizers, it may contain undesirable amounts of sodium salts ( table salt), which salinize clay soils with slow drainage. Crab meal is an excellent nematodocyte, i.e. a means of combating harmful soil microscopic nematode worms. flour stimulates rapid reproduction bacteria that decompose the chitin of crab shells, after which these bacteria pounce on nematodes that are also covered with chitin and their eggs. For this quality, crab shell flour is popular in Southeast Asia.

Fertilizers based on fish emulsion
NPK varies depending on the manufacturing technology - 5-2-2, 5-1-1, 3-1-1, 2-5-3. Liquid nitrogen fertilizer that does not burn plants. Beloved by flower growers since the time of the American Indians, who fertilized their crops with rotted fish waste. It is recommended to apply once a month during the growing season, starting in spring. A small amount of the emulsion is dissolved in water, which is used to water the soil under the plants. When using this fertilizer, we recommend that you check the table salt, sodium chloride content on the label and do not use the emulsion on heavy soils with slow drainage. A slight disadvantage of this fertilizer is the smell, which is not liked by many people, but cats really like it. Other than that, it's a great fertilizer.
Fish emulsion is made mainly from menhaden fish, which have no value as human food, but are very good as a source of fish oil, livestock feed and fertilizer. In order for the fish emulsion not to decompose in the store and not exude particularly bad odors, phosphoric acid is added to it at the factory.

Fertilizers based on human and animal excrement

Cow dung (Cow Manure, Steer Manure)
NPK ranges from 0.2-0.2-0.2 to 3-3-3 (dried manure), usually around 0.5-0.5-0.5. Because of its low nutrient content, cow dung is more of a soil improver than a nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium supplement. At the same time, manure significantly improves the soil's ability to retain nutrients in a form available to plants. Therefore, even mineral fertilizers applied against the background of manure become much more effective.
It is not recommended to apply fresh manure before planting, it contains a lot of weed seeds and can burn the plants. Sold in American garden stores, cow dung is usually composted within a few months or a year. Composting creates high temperature, killing weed seeds and stabilizes nutrient content. Such composted manure is recommended to be applied a month before planting. As a rule, manure completely decomposes in the soil in a few months, so manure must be applied every year to improve the soil. By the way, this also applies to compost.
When applying, cow manure is mixed with soil in a ratio of one part manure to two parts soil. Dry manure should be used in smaller quantities than wet manure. Manure has an alkaline reaction and can alkalize the soil, so manure is not recommended for plants that love acidic soil - camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons. In addition, all manure tends to saline the soil; on heavy clay soils, it is better to use not manure, but peat or compost of plant origin.

Composted bird droppings (Chicken Manure)
NPK typically 3-2-1 - Contains much more nutrients than cow dung and burns plants more often. American stores do not sell pure bird droppings, but compost, consisting of 60% bird droppings and 40% sawdust. This mixture is composted within 6-8 months. One dahlia specialist aptly said, “Composted bird droppings do wonders, but should not be applied more than 6 weeks before planting dahlias.” Pure bird droppings are used to make liquid top dressings, which are more popular in Russia than in the United States. When applied dry, composted bird droppings are mixed into the soil at the rate of one part manure to three parts soil.

Horse Manure
NPK typically 2-1-2 - Widely used in the US as the main component of the so-called "mushroom compost" (Mushroom Compost) on which mushrooms are grown. Mushroom compost well structures sandy soil. It is even more alkaline than cow dung. Just like cow dung horse dung can saline the soil.

Pig Manure
NPK is typically 2-2-2 - Many experts do not recommend the use of pig manure, as pigs and humans share some common diseases and pig manure poses a risk of infection. For the same reasons, it is not recommended to use the excrement of all omnivores and carnivores, including cats and dogs.
In addition to the risk of infection, pig manure smells worse than cow manure or bird droppings.

Sheep Manure, Rabbit Manure and other herbivore dung are similar in characteristics and uses to cow dung

Fresh Bat Guano (Bat Guano)
NPK 10-3-1 - Seabird Guano 12-8-2. A rather expensive fast-acting fertilizer, popular mainly for potted and balcony plants. The name "guano" comes from the words of the Indians of the Inca civilization, meaning "faeces of sea birds." In the past, guano was used much more widely and was called the "king of organic fertilizers." In 1856, the United States Congress passed a law encouraging US citizens to look for guano deposits and prohibiting the export of guano to other countries.
Guano tea is prepared from guano by steeping a small amount of guano in water for one day. The resulting "tea" can be used as a top dressing. It is recommended to use every six weeks during spring and summer. Since guano is a fast-acting fertilizer and high in nitrogen, excessive use can “burn” plants, causing necrosis that starts from the leaf margins.
Petrified bat guano (High Phosphate Bat Guano) 3–10-1. Fossilized guano of seabirds (High Phosphate Seabird Guano) 0–12-1, including slow-released phosphorus 0–25-1. Wonderful but pricey wide application fertilizer. Significantly improves the flowering of ornamental plants. It is mainly used for flowers in pots. It is applied dry or used to make "guan tea".

Fertilizers based on human faeces, such as Milorganite
NPK 6-4-0 - Milorganite is made in Milwaukee from sewer sludge and is widely used in the US for grass areas, especially golf courses and stadiums. The advantages of Milorganite include slow release of nutrients and low cost.
The use of untreated human feces as a fertilizer is not recommended. In the US, this is prohibited, as there is a high risk of the spread of infections and infection with them. groundwater. In addition, the use of faeces for home composting is also not recommended, as the temperature of home-made compost is insufficient to kill faecal pathogens.
In addition, even processed faeces, such as Milorganite, have a big drawback in the form of a high salt concentration. heavy metals dissolved in the sewer. Heavy metals include zinc, copper, lead, chromium, nickel and others. Many ornamental plants do not tolerate heavy metal salts well. In addition, heavy metals accumulate in vegetables, which is not very good for eating.

Natural (non-synthetic) mineral fertilizers
Rock phosphate (Rock Phosphate), released immediately NPK 0-3-0, within 3-4 years NPK 0-20-0. A natural mineral from which superphosphate is made. Supporters organic gardening prefer natural phosphate to superphosphate, since natural phosphate acts more slowly and contains many trace elements.

phosphate clay, soft phosphate (Soft Phosphate), is released immediately NPK 0-2-0, within 3-4 years NPK 0-16-0. Clay lying between layers of rock phosphate.

green sand, glauconite (Green Sand, Glauconite) 0–0-3. A very slow acting potash fertilizer mined in New Jersey. Slowly releases potassium over 10 years. Contains many trace elements. Improves clay soils. It is recommended to apply every 3 years when preparing the soil before planting.

Rock dust
NPK 0-0-1 - Powdered granite. Manufacturers of this fertilizer claim that it contains many trace elements, improves the absorption of phosphorus by plants, improves the living conditions for earthworms and improves the taste of fodder plants growing on this fertilizer for animals. Scientists from the US Department Agriculture(Department of Agriculture) tested rock dust as a fertilizer and found no effect on plant growth. On this occasion, articles like "The King's New Fertilizer" appeared in the press, with a hint of Andersen's fairy tale "And the king is naked."

Langbeinite, Sul-Po-Mag (Langbeinite, Sul-Po-Mag)
NPK 0-0-22 - Natural mineral containing 22% potassium, 23% sulfur and 11% magnesium. We recommend using it only if soil analysis shows a lack of magnesium. Contains up to 4% salt, so it can saline the soil. On the other hand, Sul-po-mag is better to use than a mineral fertilizer such as potassium chloride, since many plants do not like the chloride ions that arise from dissolved potassium chloride.

Algae based fertilizers

Algae Meal (Kelp Meal)
NPK 1-0.1-2 - Most commonly produced from the Norwegian seaweed Ascophyllum nodosum. Algae flour is used as a weak potash fertilizer, but is mainly valued for its large amount of trace elements. Algae flour is recommended to be applied as an additive to other fertilizers once a year. Unfortunately, seaweed meal contains a relatively high amount of common salt, sodium chloride, which makes it unsuitable for clay soils that are easily affected by salinity.

Chemical composition of biohumus

Humidity 40-45% Ash content 35-45% organic matter 55-65% Humic substances 25-32% Nitrogen total 1,0-2,0% Phosphorus total (P2O5) 1,5-3,0% Potassium total (K2O) 1,2-2,0% Calcium 4,0-6,0% Magnesium 0,6-2,3% Iron 0,6-2,5% Manganese 60-80 mg/kg Mass fraction of heavy metals, mg/kg below MPC for soils Pathogenic microflora missing helminth eggs missing