Soil treatment for diseases in autumn. Soil tillage in autumn. Sandy or sandy soil
We all know that in order for the land to repay in the spring and summer with a rich harvest, it is necessary to prepare it in advance. In this article, the conversation will not be about the May procedures, but about what it is time to do now.
Digging
One of traditional methods soil preparation in the fall - its digging. It was invented by our grandparents. However, they still use this method today. Therefore, they call this treatment - "grandfather's". Although not only they use it, but also many young gardeners. By the way, there are several varieties of such a technique: non-moldboard (dug out clods do not break and do not turn over) and moldboard (the earth turns over, lumps break). Each type has its own advantages: the first one preserves natural beneficial features the surface of the site, and with the second, all pest seeds will go deep and will not be able to interfere with plants even in summer. By the way, experienced gardeners recommend not to break the clods, because during the winter they will be saturated with moisture on their own, and by spring the soil will be crumbly. And all you need is a rake to level the bed.And one more piece of advice from avid gardeners - do not dig deeper than the bayonet of a shovel. And, in secret, it is better to use a pitchfork. So no weeds will pass you by. In truth, although such a restoration is used, it is already pretty outdated, and a large number of more effective vaccines have been invented, which have to be used in order to destroy various earthly pests.
Often summer residents scatter manure around the garden. The measure is quite effective, only such fertilizer needs to lie down for more than one year in order to be of use to it. Therefore, gardeners went further and came up with other ways to improve land qualities. Everyone knows that collecting good harvest, the soil gives up some of its valuable properties, so they need to be restored.
Fertilization
For this purpose, mineral fertilizers began to be used. But, unfortunately, they do not always give the desired results, but, on the contrary, only worsen the earth. Therefore, if you choose this method, then be sure to combine them with other useful substances.For example, organic additives in combination with mineral additives will increase soil fertility. Such treatment can be carried out every 3-4 years (once during this time will be enough), and if the case is severe (the soil, which you cannot give the opportunity to rest or it is very depleted) - once a year.
In addition, in the fall, you can improve the structure of the soil, or rather, correct it a little. For example, there is a lot of clay on your site, and this does not suit you. In such a case, you must do the following: organic fertilizer add sand, humus, compost. And fertilize the earth with all this. In response, it will become more fertile, loose and permeable. And there will be less annoying clay.
If your site is overcome by sandy soils, it does not matter either. Just fertilize it with leaf humus, rotted compost or sawdust. All this will not allow moisture to seep past the plants so quickly, but on the contrary, it will retain water, thereby forming an aqueous solution, which is so necessary for living organisms.
Chalk, lime or dolomite flour neutralize excess acid in soils.
Effective microorganisms will also help cure the soil. But there is one rule in the use of these funds - the warmer the earth, the better. Therefore, it is better to process it when it is still warm.
So, we treat the soil with a solution of an EM preparation. Before this, it is necessary to weed the fertilized bed, but do not rush to remove the weeds from it, leave it there. It is they who need to be fertilized with the liquid mentioned above. This measure will lead to the fact that microorganisms will be engaged in the decomposition of weeds and their roots, after which the pest seeds, although they germinate, will die with the onset of frost.
As you can see, there are a large number of treatment areas that do not require much time or material resources. But the soil will repay you with a rich harvest in gratitude for taking care of it.
The autumn digging of the site has both opponents and supporters. Agronomists put an end to the dispute: autumn tillage entirely depends on what kind of soil you have.
For example, on light, loose or deeply cultivated soils, large-scale digging does not make sense and is completely replaceable by loosening. If the soil is clayey or uncultivated, then digging in such a site is required!
Should I dig the garden?
If digging is vital for the garden, then in the garden it should be treated very carefully. For example, many gardeners dig up in the fall trunk circle tree on a bayonet, thereby destroying the small suction roots located in the fertile soil layer. Namely, they collect moisture and nutrients. In the case of cherry and apple trees, a "bayonet attack" will lead to the appearance of a massive shoot and take away the strength of the main tree. Therefore, it is recommended to simply loosen those lands that are kept under black fallow.
Soil preparation
Start preparing the soil for winter immediately after harvesting. This is primarily done to remove weeds and apply fertilizer. If the weather is favorable, then the collected tops and weed roots can be dried and burned, subsequently introducing ash into the soil when digging.
Only after that you can start the hardest garden work- tillage. For most gardeners, it will not be news that the roots of plants breathe underground and consume the oxygen contained in the pores of the soil, releasing carbon dioxide. Dense clay soils impede gas exchange and do not allow the earth to breathe. To ensure normal gas exchange, aeration is performed on the site.
soil aeration
Aeration of the soil consists in making special holes that allow the earth to receive the oxygen it needs. The simplest and most proven aeration tool is a rake (fan and harrow) and a pitchfork. However, there are many modern ways soil cultivation using both mechanical and motorized means.
To mechanical means include aerator rakes, roller rakes and aerator sandals. The name of the latter speaks for itself. These sandals are spiked soles attached to shoes. Making a promenade through the site in rubber boots with spikes attached to the sole, you pierce the soil, creating multiple depressions and allowing it to be saturated with oxygen.
Motorized aerators differ from mechanical counterparts in the variety of functions and the presence of an electric or gasoline engine. Despite the high cost, it is gasoline aerators that are in demand, since they are not limited by the length of the wire and are more powerful with comparable sizes.
Fighting weeds
Two-time tillage and its continuous loosening in summer period do nothing to improve it. Autumn tillage under vegetable crops should be made before the onset of stable cold weather and the rainy season. best time for a similar task, the second half of September - the first decade of October is considered.
It is advisable to start soil preparation with light loosening of the topmost soil layer and harvesting the previous crop. For such purposes, it is easiest to use a rake. This will stimulate the germination of weed seeds for their subsequent harvesting with
harrowing. Professionals recommend using Fokin's flat cutter, which simultaneously destroys weeds and loosens the soil. Even if later on the beds a shoot of young weeds appears, they will be destroyed during the spring loosening of the soil. Regular carrying out of this work leads to the destruction of such weeds as dandelion, wheatgrass, coltsfoot, since only mature plants have outstanding vitality.
Working as a cultivator and walk-behind tractor
Most landowners prefer machining soil, which significantly increases the yield, and on overgrown perennial herbs and uncultivated soils is simply an indispensable agricultural technique.
When cultivating the soil with a cultivator, the cutter creates a finely cloddy structure of the root layer, which is most favorable for the development of the root system. The rotation speed of the cutter should not exceed 200 rpm, which is considered the most suitable for these jobs.
Among other things, the motor cultivator allows loosening row spacings, hilling and cutting furrows. Meanwhile, it should be immediately taken into account that the cultivator is able to work only on previously plowed soil. That is, if the site is sodden, then the walk-behind tractor will be most welcome. At the same time, all the green mass is covered and mixed with the soil.
Many models of walk-behind tractors have a power take-off shaft that allows you to use a variety of attachments. When using a cutter on a walk-behind tractor, the soil structure is especially fine, suitable for direct sowing of vegetable seeds and favorable for growing young seedlings. Such tillage is used in greenhouses and greenhouses. AT open ground the number of factors affecting the quality of the fertile layer is many times higher, and “downy” land is simply unacceptable for it.
Usually, cultivated plants need abundant food. Cultivated soil almost doubles its volume due to the formed pores and wells filled with air. This contributes to the rapid decomposition of plant residues, the formation of humus. Soil tillage stimulates root growth
plant systems and allows it to penetrate into the depths with less effort.
Once every five years, deep tillage may be required. For this, walk-behind tractors or mini-tractors with a set of mounted implements are suitable. Deep tillage increases the arable layer several times and improves drainage. Such work is of particular benefit when growing table root vegetables.
Note that southern soils require deeper loosening, while northern soils can be content with relatively shallow tillage.
About the benefits of fertilizers
In addition to loosening the soil, it is necessary to apply fertilizers - mineral and organic. In the process of loosening, they are evenly mixed with the fertile layer and in the spring, after planting, they effectively reach the roots. At the same time, the soil structure improves, which is required for good quality received products.
During digging, organic fertilizers (compost, manure) are applied only to the plots of the planned next year planting seedlings of cucumbers, cabbage (approximately 1 mg per bucket). Mineral fertilizers, except for nitrogen, can be applied to all crops. The depth of digging should be at least 20 cm.
If you want to deepen the arable horizon, then keep in mind that in this case additional doses of organic fertilizers will be required. On the acidic soil liming will be a prerequisite. After harvesting late crops (cabbage, parsnips, celery), tops and plant residues (except for stumps) should be finely chopped and buried in deep grooves across the ridge, leaving until spring. On such ridges you can not only sow ahead of schedule, but the soil on them warms up better.
How to treat a plot on which nothing has grown for a long time
How to treat a plot on which nothing has grown for a long time
In the first spring, the soddy area is dug up to a depth of 10 cm, turning the layer over, and left until autumn. In autumn, the site is again dug up, but already to a depth of 20 cm. By this time, the sod is at a depth and no longer germinates. It remains only to fertilize and level the surface with a rake.
In autumn, the area treated in spring is dug up again, but to a greater depth.
The next autumn, after harvesting, the site is dug up to the depth of the fertile layer. By this time, the sod will decompose, and the weed will die. Subsequently, the soil is processed as mastered.
Autumn tillage is considered much more effective than spring tillage. Moreover, in the spring you don’t feel like digging up the site, when all the work can fit into light tillage with a rake!
Autumn is a responsible time of the year for a beginner gardener. The foundation for the future harvest is being laid right now.
In autumn, the soil is dug up so that large blocks remain (they are not broken with a shovel). The lumps will freeze, and with them the wintering stages of pests and pathogenic microorganisms. In addition, frost loosens the dug-up layer, and moisture can seep into the depths without hindrance.
Cleaning the garden is a good reason to organize compost heap. You can dump plant residues into it. But only not infected with diseases and pests. Pathogens and pests can partially survive in the compost, and then end up with it in vegetable beds. It is impossible to throw into the compost and weeds with already formed seeds, since the seeds remain viable for 3-5 years.
autumn sowing
In order to carry out the autumn sowing, you will need good quality seeds. They will have to lie in the ground all winter. For such a case, it is better to purchase colored seeds (this shell contains a special disinfectant, and they do not need to be germinated, which is required for winter crops).
Before winter, carrots, lettuce, spinach, parsley and even cabbage are sown. But only not in those places where the soil does not dry out for a long time in the spring or flooding occurs. Crops with small seeds and greens are sown no earlier than the soil temperature becomes close to 2-3 ° C. AT central regions This happens in the non-chernozem zone in the second half of October - the first decade of November. If sown too early, seedlings may die from autumn frosts.
About root crops
If the weather is dry and non-frosty, then you can not rush to harvest root crops. Indeed, in the fall, these vegetable crops grow significantly, gain mass and juiciness, and dry weather will improve their further keeping quality.
Carrots and other root crops intended for storage should be ideal: even, without mechanical damage and signs of disease. All "freaks" are used for canning and processing.
OUR ADVICE
Onion sets less than 1 cm in diameter room conditions poorly preserved, dries quickly. It is better to plant it before winter.
For winter sowing small sets are made in ridges and planted no later than October 15-20. Planting depth 4-5 cm; the distance between rows is 20-25 cm, and between the bulbs -15-20 cm.
Plantings are mulched with peat with a layer of 1.5-2 cm and covered with dry leaves.
Medium and late varieties white cabbage more often removed in one go. Cabbage intended for storage in fresh, cleaned at a later date (but do not let her freeze slightly). Short-term frosts (4-5 ° C) will not damage the heads of cabbage if they thaw on the vine before cutting.
Winter garlic is planted in such a way that it takes root before the onset of frost.
For planting, the largest cloves are selected, which are located on the outside of the bulb. Those in the center should not be used for planting. They are planted to a depth of about 5-6 cm. A clove from a clove at a distance of 20-25 cm. Aisles are wide - up to 50 cm. This is how garlic grows better. And yes, it's easier to take care of.
IMPORTANT!
On the small areas can be sown in frozen soil in pre-prepared low beds.
In this case, it is necessary to sprinkle the seeds with dry earth, peat or humus, which were stored in a frost-free room.
The rate of sowing seeds before winter increases by 1.5 times compared to spring.
The sowing depth on light soils is 0.5 cm greater than with spring sowing (due to mulching with peat).
Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - with your own hands"
Autumn is coming - it's time when summer residents and gardeners have already harvested and begin to think about how to make the next summer fertile and fruitful. What can affect the decrease in yield?
This is the wrong neighborhood of vegetables, herbs, root crops, the poverty of the soil with mineral salts, which means a lack of fertilizers, or the whole thing can be soil diseases and pests. In any case, tillage is necessary in the fall from diseases and pests. How to do it right?
Soil diseases occur over time due to improper use of the soil.
Soil cultivation in the fall from diseases and pests
Soil tillage in autumn - what to use?
Soil diseases occur over time due to improper use of the soil, as a result of which pathogenic microorganisms collect and begin to actively act in it. As a rule, they are concentrated in the region of plant roots. This process leads to the emergence of diseases, due to which crops can die.
The following soil diseases are currently known:
late blight (affects the fruits of tomatoes and root crops) - its presence can be seen by looking at the fruits - they have brown spots;
dry rot (infects potatoes) - develops due to high humidity soil and high temperature;
Rhizoctonia (infects potatoes) fungal disease, in the form of dry pieces of soil on the peel;
alternariosis (affects young shoots of potatoes) - dry spotting appears on the vegetation;
scab (affects root crops) - this can be seen by the formation of a crust with dry sores that cause rotting.
Experienced summer residents they always monitor the soil in order to disinfect it in time, because if the disease has affected the plants, it becomes very difficult to get rid of it. There are several ways to combat soil diseases. First of all, it is the application chemicals, namely the processing autumn time soil with a solution of vitriol (not very concentrated, 1-2% will be enough).
Experienced summer residents always monitor the soil in order to disinfect it in time, because if the disease has affected the plants, it becomes very difficult to get rid of it.
The second method is biological disinfection, namely, application to the soil half a month before the first frost. special preparations(for example, "Baikal", biofungicide). Thanks to this method, pathogenic microorganisms are destroyed and the soil heals.
is biological disinfection, namely, the introduction of special preparations into the soil half a month before the first frost (for example, Baikal, a biofungicide). Thanks to this method, pathogenic microorganisms are destroyed and the soil heals.
And the last method is agrotechnical. It involves dividing the garden into beds that will be narrow enough, because of which the soil will dry out better and not retain moisture, which affects the incidence of diseases. In combination with the use of crop rotation, namely planting seedlings or seeds on the same bed, for three years, the soil recovers completely.
In combination with the use of crop rotation, namely planting seedlings or seeds on the same bed, for three years, the soil recovers completely.
Soil pest control
Not only diseases can damage a good harvest, but also pests. Autumn time- the time of active struggle with them. Be sure to dig up the ground in order to get rid of cabbage and onion midges, fleas, cabbage scoops. If the earth is not dug up and turned with a pitchfork, their larvae will remain in the soil, and even survive the frost. A suitable method of dealing with them would be spilling the soil with a special solution (for example, "Fitosporin"). This method should be applied as soon as the crop is harvested.
A suitable method of dealing with them would be spilling the soil with a special solution (for example, "Fitosporin"). This method should be applied as soon as the crop is harvested.
In order to destroy spider mites, larvae of the kidney moth, you need to remove the dried bark, moss and lichens from shrubs and trees. The same applies to garden trees. On the trees and shrubs themselves, you need to apply blue vitriol which is easy to make on your own.
On the trees and shrubs themselves, you need to apply copper sulfate, which is easy to cook on your own.
To prevent the occurrence of soil diseases and pests on plants, you should be responsible for the selection and cleaning for storage in the cellar planting material. It must be carefully examined, disassembled and left for landing in the spring only those specimens that are healthy and not damaged. They must be thoroughly dried and stored at a certain humidity and temperature, thereby protecting them from infection by pathogenic microorganisms. So, cultivating the soil in the fall from diseases and pests is a simple matter, but very important. We hope that our advice will be useful to you.
One of the fundamental works of the entire season is autumn tillage Location on. Autumn tillage cannot be replaced by spring - deeper layers of soil are cultivated in autumn, each bed is loosened or dug to a different depth, in accordance with which crop (or crops) will grow on it next season.
During autumn processing various types soils in the arable layer make appropriate organic fertilizers, complex mineral fertilizers, and also carry out liming, introducing chalk, lime or dolomite flour.
After a good autumn preparation, spring pre-sowing tillage is reduced to surface loosening with a flat cutter or harrowing with a rake.
For autumn processing soil on suburban area suitable tools such as a pitchfork, shovel and manual cultivator A crab that simultaneously loosens without turning the bed and combs out the weeds. At the same time, the structure of the soil is preserved.
Soil tillage in autumn promotes the decomposition of weed roots; during severe frosts, larvae and eggs of wintering pests, as well as seeds of many weeds, die faster. When digging or loosening, clods are not broken so that the soil does not freeze and weather in winter.
The optimal time for autumn tillage is mid-September, except for beds for. It must be completed before the onset of heavy rains, which can nullify all efforts and, on the contrary, compact the loosened earth, especially when it comes to heavy clay soils.
Autumn processing begins with a light loosening of the topmost layer of soil on each bed immediately after harvest. It's easier, faster and easier to do with a rake. The purpose of this work is to provoke the germination of weeds. After 10-15 days, the beds will be covered with friendly shoots of weeds.
If digging is not included in your plans, then these young weeds still need to be cut with a flat cutter or harrowed with a rake.
Digging or deep loosening should not be put off for long. Late digging of the soil with snow is undesirable, as it leads to its slow warming up in the spring.
Is it necessary to dig the soil deep every year?
Once again, it is not worth digging the soil deeply with a shovel, since microorganisms that live in the upper layers of the soil do not take root well in deeper layers, and vice versa.
Autumn tillage can be dispensed with on light, non-weedy soils, as well as on floodplain soils flooded with flood waters.
Proponents of organic farming do not dig up the soil, but cover it with a thick layer of mulching material. But practice shows that finding and preparing the amount of mulch needed to mulch a large vegetable garden, garden and flower garden is a big problem. Therefore, it is not necessary to completely abandon the traditional agricultural practices, they can be successfully combined with new techniques.
Often, digging is indispensable, for example, if the site has a slope, then when digging it across the slope, small rolls of earth are raked up to retain rainwater in the fall and melt water in the spring.
The introduction of the bulk of organic fertilizers into the soil, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and mineral additives (sand or clay) also require digging the earth.
Soil liming, which is especially needed for soddy-podzolic soils with a low humus content and an acidic reaction, is carried out only during autumn digging, usually once every 5-6 years. The introduction of lime not only deoxidizes the soil, but also increases fertility.
They dig the soil to the depth of the fertile layer, approximately to the depth of the bayonet of a shovel - you can dig 1-2 cm deeper, gradually increasing the depth of the arable layer.
In the flooded area, digging and fertilizing is left in the spring.
When starting a vegetable garden, no matter what the soil, do not grab a shovel before you have a plan for placing vegetable crops in your garden. It is also necessary to know the composition of the soil for correct processing soil for garden plants.
Proper garden planning
Rice. 1. Garden plan
Divide the part of the garden planned for vegetables into four plots: on the first place the crops that require a large number organic fertilizers - cucumbers and cabbage, on the second - tomatoes and onions, on the third (after applying mineral fertilizers) - root crops, and carrots should be placed next to the onions of the second plot, since these crops will mutually protect against flies: onions protect carrots from carrot flies, while carrots protect onions from onion fly. And on the fourth plot, place early potatoes. Beware of growing potatoes next to tomatoes or after tomatoes, and tomatoes after potatoes, as both crops are affected by the same fungus - late blight.
Green vegetables (lettuce, Chinese cabbage, spinach, dill, etc.) and radishes can be grown either before cucumbers and tomatoes (they will be repeated crops), or after early cabbage and early potatoes, or in the aisles of young orchard, but not closer than 1 m from the tree trunk. On an inconvenient part of the garden, near buildings or a fence, place perennial vegetable crops that tolerate some shading: rhubarb, sorrel, tarragon, perennial onions, as well as onion to the greens.
With insufficient area for vegetable crops, they can be grown in the aisles of a young garden, especially such early vegetables like green. root system onions for greens, lettuce, Chinese cabbage, dill for greens, spinach, and radish, occupying the area under the trees for a short time, competes little with the roots fruit trees regarding nutrient intake. When placing vegetable crops in young garden it should be borne in mind that the lettuce does not form a head when shaded, the radish does not form a root crop. The distance from the tree trunk must be at least 1 m.
In wide aisles, you can also grow early white and cauliflower, early Savoy and kohlrabi, but only with sufficient sunlight for these plants.
As a general rule, vegetables should be grown on a level surface, but if there is a thin fertile layer or close ground water, then you have to grow them in beds no more than 1 m wide. Cold-resistant crops should be arranged in rows from east to west: better lighting in the morning and evening, less overheating at noon; demanding to heat - from north to south.
Crop rotation in the garden
Rice. 2. Garden plan for the next year. Crop rotation example
Keep in mind that next year the crops grown in the first plot should be placed in the fourth, and in the second - the crops from the first plot, etc. What is it for? The fact is that when crops are grown for a number of years in the same place, the soil is depleted of individual nutrients, in addition, different plants, having their own specific root system, take nutrients from different depths of the soil (onions - from the top layer soil, carrots - from the lower horizon).
With a monoculture, pathogens accumulate in the soil, for example, with a culture of cabbage - the causative agent of cabbage keel, with a culture of tomatoes - phytophthora, carrots - sclerotinia.
If it is planned to grow cucumbers and tomatoes in film portable greenhouses, then they can also be placed on plots intended for these crops. When the greenhouses are moved to new plots the following year, the remaining fertile soil provides for the next crop. It is only necessary to provide that the greenhouses are not shaded by buildings or trees, and not to grow both cucumbers and tomatoes in the same greenhouse, since cucumbers grow well with more high humidity air than tomatoes.
Terms of tillage in the garden
You can start tilling the soil when it is “ripe”, i.e. dried up to such an extent that during processing it crumbles well and breaks up into small lumps. If the soil on the site is heterogeneous, processing should be started selectively, as soon as it is ready, and it is necessary to prepare the soil for sowing seeds or planting seedlings on such an area that it is completely hushed up on the same day, avoiding excessive loss of moisture for evaporation.
It is necessary to cultivate the soil for vegetable crops in the garden in accordance with the depth of the location of the main mass of active roots; in apple and pear trees, they lie at a depth of 30-35 cm, in cherries and plums - 15-20 cm. When digging the soil, the shovel should be placed with an edge to the tree trunk so as not to damage large roots.
Do not disregard the plots intended for growing cucumbers and tomatoes demanding heat, if greenhouses are not located on them. They must be maintained in a state of black vapor, i.e. carry out shallow loosening before sowing and planting, preventing the appearance of weeds, so as not to deplete the soil and not lose moisture. It is necessary to dig up the soil on the day of sowing and planting.
How best to dig the soil
Usually they dig up the soil in the garden, turning the earth over with a shovel in place. Double work: at the same time, half of the already dug up earth is raised again. It is necessary to throw the earth from the shovel forward. Fertilizers must be applied to the groove-groove formed, and if the podzol is exposed, it is necessary to lay organic fertilizer with lime and finely dig on the spot, then apply 2/3 of the amount of organic-mineral fertilizer, covering it with earth when digging the next row, leaving a new furrow for next dose of fertilizer.
Such cultivation of the garden is possible if the soil is not sodden. From the soil, permeated with roots or rhizomes of perennial malicious weeds(wheatgrass, sow thistle, bindweed, dandelion, buttercup, etc.), you need to carefully select the roots and rhizomes, weeds when digging. At the same time, it is necessary to remove the larvae of the wireworm (beetle) and the May beetle (click beetle) and the beetles themselves - after all, they and their generations live in the ground for three to four years. Do not forget about the bears in the garden.
