Onion sets Siberian annual reviews. Onion varieties suitable for winter sowing. Onion Rostov onion local
Siberian onion: description of an annual variety
In the conditions of cold Siberian winters, the use of a winter-hardy and early ripe sevka variety is required. Siberian onion - a proven variety with high yield, resistance to diseases, does not require constant care, fertilizing and weeding.
Description
The variety is characterized by early maturity, which is important for the short Siberian summer. Bulbs dried after harvesting are well stored throughout the winter in a cool basement.
Source: Depositphotos
Siberian onion grows large
Main characteristics:
- bulbs large size, with a characteristic flat-round shape.
- The taste is semi-sharp, suitable for raw consumption and for heat treatment, marinades.
- The mass of bulbs during seed cultivation is 100-140 g, when planting a set, it reaches 200 g.
- Increased resistance to shooting and keeping quality.
- Productivity 1.5-2.7 kg / sq. m.
- When planting seeds, it ripens after 98 days.
- In the absence of care for the bed, the average weight of the bulb is 100 g.
- To increase productivity, plant in a well-lit area.
If the goal is to collect big harvest, plant Siberian onions in light loamy soils. Removing weeds and watering, supplemented by loosening the row spacing, will allow you to grow the largest possible bulbs.
Annual variety: planting
It does not make sense to leave this type of onion for the 2nd year - it shows the maximum yield in the 1st year. Seeds and sevok are planted in early spring or before winter. When planting seeds on sevok:
- to speed up germination, soak the seeds in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or in water. Hold the seeds for 2 days in a moist state at a temperature not lower than 20 ⁰С;
- leave the distance between the seeds 1-2 cm, without deepening into the ground deeper than 2 cm;
- compact the soil before watering so that the seeds are not washed out with water;
- when planting before winter, add humus and peat to the soil;
- at spring planting water the seedlings regularly and remove weeds;
- You can accelerate the germination and growth of onions with the help of agrotechnical means - use growth and development stimulants, mineral fertilizers.
Planting seeds on a turnip differs only in a lower planting density - up to 10-12 cm between seeds.
bred Siberian variety onion is obtained from the Tsituassky variety and is adapted for fruitful cultivation in Western Siberia and the Urals. Large onions, good taste and keeping quality make it suitable for adding to dishes in raw form and in preparations, marinades.
Good afternoon!
I want to talk about varieties onion for the Urals. These varieties are included in the state register of the Russian Federation and checked, tested specifically for our climatic and light zone. Because different regions receive different amounts of light and heat. The Ural region includes the Kurgan, Chelyabinsk, Orenburg regions and Bashkiria. The description will indicate all regions for which these varieties of onions are suitable. In order not to list them every time, I will denote them by numbers, as in the registry:
- Northern- Murmansk, Arkhangelsk regions. Republic of Komi, Karelia.
- Northwestern- Kaliningrad, Vologda, Kostroma, Novgorod, Leningrad, Pskov, Yaroslavl, Tver regions.
- Central- Vladimir, Bryansk, Kaluga, Ivanovo, Ryazan, Moscow, Tula, Smolensk regions.
- Volga - Vyatka- Kirov, Sverdlovsk, Nizhny Novgorod regions. Republics of Mari El, Chuvash, Udmurt, Perm Territory.
- Central Black Earth- Voronezh, Belgorod, Lipetsk, Kursk, Tambov, Oryol regions.
- North Caucasian- Krasnodar, Stavropol Territories, Rostov Region, Republics of Adygea, Karchay-Cherkess, Kabardino-Balkaria.
- Middle Volga- Samara, Penza, Ulyanovsk regions. Republic of Mordovia, Tatarstan.
- Nizhnevolzhsky- Volgograd, Saratov, Astrakhan region. Republic of Kalmykia.
- Ural- Orenburg, Kurgan, Chelyabinsk regions, the Republic of Bashkortostan.
- West Siberian- Altai Republic. Novosibirsk, Kemerovo, Omsk, Tyumen, Tomsk regions, Altai region, HMAO.
- East Siberian region– Chita, Irkutsk regions, Krasnoyarsk region. Republics of Sakha, Tyva, Buryatia, Khakassia.
- Far Eastern- Kamchatka, Amur, Sakhalin, Magadan regions. Khabarovsk, Primorsky Territory.
Varieties of onions for the Urals with a photo and description
Arzamas
This is an old, well-known, time-tested variety of folk selection for growing in a two-year culture, through sets. Bulb from elongated-rounded to cuboid-rounded. The sizes are average, weighing from 40 to 80 grams. The variety was released in the Gorky (now Nizhny Novgorod) region in 1943. Mid-season ripening period - from 100 to 110 days. Medium-sized, small nested.
It is possible to grow up to a large bulb in one year. The color of the scales is dark yellow, even with a brown tint, inside the scales are white, juicy, dense. Ripens before harvesting up to 96%. Well kept in winter.
Growing regions - 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9.
Variety "Arzamas"
Bessonovsky local
Early multi-celled spicy variety. It can be grown in annual and biennial culture. Round-flat bulb, dense, yellow scales outside, white inside. Bulbs grow weighing 36-55 grams.
From the germination of the first feathers on the set to their lodging, 60-80 days pass. Keeping quality is good, it can be stored almost until spring - 8-9 months.
Suitable for regions - 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12.
Variety "Bessonovsky local" Buran
Late ripe variety. The bulb grows single-celled, three-legged. It is intended for cultivation by a two-year cycle. Universal variety, with a sharp taste. The bulbs are dense, rounded, weighing 67-100 grams. Dry scales are bright yellow with anthocyanin, juicy - white. Yield up to 12 tons per ha.
Before harvesting, the ripening rate is about 63%, and after ripening - 89.2%. Keep well. May suffer from transporosis. Yields are stable with large even bulbs, with good keeping quality, resistant to bacterial diseases.
I did not find this variety in the State Register for 2015. Apparently, it has already been excluded, but it continues to live as a local variety, spreading by local gardeners.
Zoned by Central, Middle Volga, Ural regions.
Boterus
Medium early variety. Grown in one year from nigella and in a two-year culture. Large flat-round bulb, weighing 60-80 grams. The scales are yellow on the outside, white on the inside. Sharp taste. Before harvesting, the variety ripens by 85%, after ripening by 97%. Suitable for winter storage.
Growing regions - 3, 9, 10 .
Variety "Boterus" Moldavian
Mid-season variety of selection of the Pridnestrovian Research Institute of Agriculture for cultivation in one season. When planting sevkom in the second year, it goes into the arrow. Ripens in 105-110 days. Flat-rounded or rounded bulb, weighing from 70 to 130 grams, with good conditions up to 200 gr and more.
Outside, the scales are pink-brown with a white-violet tint, and inside they are pale purple. Two or four buds. Universal purpose, spicy taste. The average yield is 25-38 tons per hectare. During storage, the safety of onions is 90-95%.
Variety "Moldavian" Myachikovsky 300
Early variety only 80-90 days pass from full germination from the set to feather lodging. Medium density, flat or onion, weighing up to 110 gr. The scales are yellow on top and white on the inside. Variety small-nested, universal purpose, semi-sharp taste. Well kept in winter. Suitable for growing from seeds in one year.
Sort "Myachikovsky 300" Red Baron
The variety is suitable for growing both seeds in one season and sets in two years. The bulbs are dark purple completely, both on top and inside. The period from the first green feathers to their lodging is 95 days. Round-flat onion weighing up to 120 grams, semi-sharp taste. The yield is usually 1.5 kg/m. Onion scales are dense, strong, recommended for long-term storage.
Suitable for growing in regions - 3, 4, 5, 6, 9.
Variety "Red Baron" Siberian Annual
Super early variety. When planted from a set, it ripens for 60-70 days! If grown from seeds, then for 90-100 days! A lot of greenery, a blue-green feather. Flat or flat-round bulb, yellow color. Semi-sharp taste. The weight of a bulb grown from sevka reaches 200 grams, from seeds with an annual crop up to 100 grams. Variety "Siberian Annual" is well stored, resistant to shooting.
Suitable for growing by region – 4, 9, 10 .
Variety "Siberian Annual" Strigunovsky local
Early spicy variety. Suitable for growing in a year and in a two-year period from sets. A dense bulb is round, four-growth, weighing 45-80 g. Outside, the scales are yellow with a grayish or pink tint, white inside. The grade is appreciated for good preservation in the winter. Through sowing, the variety ripens for 80-90 days, from seeds when sown in early spring or before winter - for 110-130 days.
Suitable for growing in all regions of the Russian Federation.
Variety "Strigunovsky local" Black Prince
Mid-season variety (100-105 days), created by VNIISSOK. Suitable for sowing before winter and early spring (annual) and growing through onion sets (biennial). Rounded, dense bulbs, weighing 60-100 g. The purpose is universal. The scales are dark purple. Two-three-armed, small-nested variety, semi-sharp taste. Productivity up to 50 tons/ha. The lightness is good.
Variety "Black Prince"
Exhibition
Medium late variety. A very productive, cold-resistant variety designed to produce full-fledged onion heads in an annual crop. Valued for high yields in different climatic conditions. During the summer, beautiful, dense oval bulbs ripen up to 800 g. The upper scales are straw-colored, white inside. Surprisingly juicy, sweet variety. Has disease resistance.
Suitable for growing in all regions of the Russian Federation.
Variety "Exhibition" Timiryazevsky
An old variety, which is no longer in the state register, but it lives in vegetable gardens. Zoned in 1968. Early maturing, small-nested, small-sized. Designed for growing from sevka in a two-year culture. Flat-round bulb, dense, spicy taste, weighing 50-70 grams. Outside, the scales are light brown, sometimes yellow, inside are white. Maturation depends on the weather from 65% to 100%. Keeping quality is good up to 95%.
Suitable for cultivation in the regions of the non-black earth: Ural, East and West Siberian, Volga-Vyatka.
Variety "Timiryazevsky" These are all the varieties that I found in the State Register for growing in the Urals. There are other hybrids out there, but I don't plant them myself and won't recommend them to my readers.
The best varieties of onions "not for the Urals"
There are also popular varieties that, despite the registries and recommendations of academicians, Ural gardeners grow on their plots. They spread themselves, thanks to their popularity.
Danilovsky 301
"Agrofirma Aelita" and VNIISSOK. Mid-season variety, small-nested, small-sized. From the mass appearance of green leaves in a set to lodging, 90-100 days pass. The bulb is flat-round and flat, weighing from 80 to 160 grams, spicy taste. Outside, the scales are dark red with a purple tint or purple, and inside they are light purple. The yield of the variety from sevka is from 12 to 33 tons / ha.
Sort "Danilovsky 301" Karatal
Selection of the Kazakh Research Institute of Agriculture. An early variety, ripens in 109 days. Recommended for growing as an annual. The bulb is usually round, sometimes flat, dense, weighing 120 grams. Small bow. The average yield is 4.4 kg per m. Outside, the scales are golden yellow, and inside are white. A variety of pleasant semi-sharp taste, intended for fresh consumption and for processing. His keeping quality is satisfactory - for a C grade. The variety is stable, productive, with large bulbs of good quality. . Onions are designed to grow in one year from seed.
Variety "Karatalsky" I did not exclude it, since it became widespread not only in the recommended regions, but also in the Urals. With early sowing under temporary shelter, it gives good yields in the Ural region. The variety is mainly salad, with a pleasant peninsular taste. In the second year, it should not be planted with sevkom, it will go to the arrow.
Carmen MS
The variety is medium-late, from the appearance of mass seedlings from seeds to lodging of feathers, 120-140 days pass. It is intended for receiving a crop for one season from seeds in an open ground or seedling. The bulbs are rounded flat, aligned, weighing from 90 to 100 grams. Dry scales are purple, juicy - white with a violet tint. Refers to salad onions - semi-sharp taste, almost sweet. Obtaining very large bulbs is possible when grown through seedlings. The average yield is 3-4 kg/m. The variety ripens well, suitable for storage, but the main purpose is to fresh and for processing.
Growing regions - 3, 5, 7, 8 .
Grade "Carmen MS" Rostov Local
early local old variety, derived in Yaroslavl region. best bow for the northern regions of Russia. It is grown from sevka in a biennial culture. Acute early ripening variety - ripens 73-93 days after the first green pen. Flat-round bulb, golden yellow, weighing 30-60 grams. Stored all year, until the next harvest.
Variety "Rostov local" Odinovets
Mid-season variety (105-120 days). Small-nested, three-legged. Suitable for growing in a year and in a biennial culture. Flat and flat-round bulbs, dense, weighing 60-80 grams, semi-sharp taste. The upper scales are golden yellow, white inside. Good fresh and for storage, has a good keeping quality. Universal purpose. Valuable for the preservation of turnips and onion sets in winter without loss of quality. Suitable for forcing on a feather.
Variety "Odinovets" Chalcedony
Mid-late variety (up to 114 days). The bulb is round, spicy taste, dry scales of bronze color. It ripens very well and is stored all winter. Both turnip and sevok. The purpose is universal.
Growing regions - 6, 8.
Variety "Chalcedony" Stuttgarter Riesen
German early spicy variety, for a two-year growing period. The purpose is universal. The bulb is flat, dense, weighing 50-90 grams. Scales are golden brown on the outside, white on the inside. The ripening of the variety at the beginning of harvesting is 55%, after ripening 96%. Well kept. Productivity is from 10 to 35 tons/ha. The variety is susceptible to cervical rot diseases, and can also be severely affected by downy mildew.
Growing regions - 3, 4, 7, 11.
This variety is surprisingly popular. Five years ago, we simply could not find anything else on the market. Apparently, its popularity is based on early ripeness. But he gives good harvests only on rich, very fertile land and in favorable conditions. If it rains all summer (and we have such weather, despite hot years and general warming), then you can lose the entire crop, it will simply rot and will not be stored, even after drying.
Read in № 9
"20 NEEDS" FOR GETTING GOOD SEEDLINGS
Without growing good seedlings, you will not get an early harvest of vegetables. Seedlings should be strong, stocky, with a thick, well-developed stem and a good root system.
But in order to get such a seedling of vegetables when growing it in an apartment, you need to know well what mistakes we most often make when preparing seeds for sowing and growing seedlings.
* It is necessary to prepare a soil mixture for growing seedlings from special components (soddy soil, humus, ventilated lowland peat, stale sawdust, coarse-grained river sand), taken in a certain ratio depending on the crop being grown.
These components must undergo 5-6 weeks of cold treatment on the balcony with two-time defrosting of the soil, and for growing cabbage seedlings - a mandatory preliminary heat treatment.
Two weeks before sowing the seeds, do not forget to bring this soil into the apartment. During this time, beneficial microflora will awaken in it. And in order to speed up this process, it can be treated with a working solution of the Baikal preparation.
BUT the best option today it should be considered the purchase of a ready-made soil mixture designed for growing exactly the vegetables you need in a specialized store.
* It is necessary to use well-drained containers for growing seedlings, in which seeds and seedlings will develop quickly.
* It is necessary to maintain the optimal soil temperature for seed germination in the seed box (from 20 to 30 ° C). If the apartment is warm, i.e. 23 ° C, then this does not mean that the soil in the box on the windowsill is also warm.
If the box is far from the window, then the soil temperature in it is usually 5 degrees lower than in the room. And if the box is on the windowsill, then the temperature is lower by 10 or more degrees. At this temperature, the seeds of heat-loving crops will either germinate poorly, or may even rot.
* It is necessary to prepare vegetable seeds for sowing, but it is still advisable to purchase seeds already fully prepared by the manufacturer in the store.
* When sowing, it is necessary to observe the required deepening of the seeds into the soil, since their excessive deepening can lead to the appearance of only single shoots.
* It is necessary to prevent thickened sowing of seeds. At the same time, the seedlings develop unevenly, the stems of many are elongated, and are formed fragile. Such seedlings are difficult to dive, besides, they are more affected by black leg and other diseases.
* It is necessary not to water the soil in the seed box immediately after sowing the seeds, because in this case the seeds can be pulled deep into the soil along with water. The soil in the box must be watered abundantly warm water immediately before sowing the seeds, and after sowing, just spray with warm water from a spray bottle.
* It is necessary to prevent insufficient watering, which leads to overdrying of the top layer of soil in the sowing box, which leads to the death of seedlings that have hatched or the roots of young plants die off. And excessive watering leads to rotting of the roots or damage to plants with a black leg and their death.
* It is necessary to prevent watering seedlings with cold water that has not settled during the day. The water temperature should be at least 22-24 degrees.
* It is necessary to provide young plants with the necessary illumination and daylight hours from the moment they emerge. With insufficient lighting, the plants are drawn out and are not able to produce a large crop in the future. Boxes with seedlings should be placed on the southern, sunny windowsill.
In any case, it must be illuminated with lamps daylight so that the total duration of daylight hours is 12–14 hours, i.e., with early sowing of seeds, seedlings must be illuminated even on the southern windows. And to improve the lighting, it is necessary to install a reflective screen near the box with seedlings from the side of the room, pulling the foil over the cardboard for this.
* We must not be late with picking seedlings. For most vegetable crops this must be done after the appearance of 1-3 true leaves. After picking, the plants must be shaded from direct sunlight for 2-3 days.
* It is necessary in the process of growing seedlings to carefully transfer it 1-2 times from smaller containers to large ones.
* It is necessary to periodically change the plants in places, starting from the moment their leaves touch each other.
* It is necessary to start feeding plants not earlier than they take root and start growing. They are usually carried out every 10 days, alternating organic and mineral fertilizers.
* It is necessary to feed the plants with nitrogen and phosphorus, depending on the quality of the prepared soil, the required number of times.
* To prevent plant diseases, it is necessary to take care of an infection-free soil mixture for growing seedlings, adding trichodermin to it, and regularly water the seedlings with the Rizoplan preparation.
* It is necessary not to overdo the required duration of growing seedlings of vegetables.
* It is necessary to harden the seedlings before planting it in a permanent place. This must be started 10-12 days before planting the plants in a permanent place, gradually increasing the time it is outdoors.
* It is necessary not to water the seedlings before transporting them to the garden, because slightly withered plants break less from careless touches. But immediately after arriving at the site, the seedlings must be plentifully watered with warm water.
What kind of carrot is better Overview
You come to the gardening store and marvel at the orange variety of carrot varieties! Here you have both early-ripening varieties, and for winter storage, round and sharp, long and snub-nosed. Well, just a glance! And if you look, then not every variety is suitable for growing in your summer cottage. In choise planting material it is worth focusing, first of all, on climatic conditions, ripening period, resistance to diseases, features of soils suitable for growing a particular variety. After studying the country literature, we compiled Brief characteristics of popular varieties and hybrids of carrots. Descriptions of varieties of carrots and their classification by maturity, taste, regional preferences will help determine What kind of carrot is best.
Variety selection criteria:
- Ripening period
- Region and climate
- Taste qualities
- yield
- keeping quality
According to the ripening period, they distinguish: early ripe (early) - ripening in 80-100 days, mid-ripening - ripening in 100-110 days, medium-late - ripening in 110-130 days, late-ripening - ripening in 130-150 days - varieties and hybrids. We will take this criterion as a basis. And at the end of the article a valuable hint will be given: What varieties and hybrids of carrots are best planted in your region.
The earliest carrots: varieties
Variety "Amsterdamskaya" early ripe. For cultivation in the Central Black Earth region. Root crop weight: 50-150 g. Productivity: 200-460 q/ha. Not for long term storage. Excellent taste qualities. The grade is steady against cracking.
Variety "Paris Cartel" early ripe. Root crop weight: 30-50 g. Productivity: 140 - 350 kg / ha. Sweet, but low yield. The taste is good, but the storage is poor.
Variety "Artek" early ripe. For cultivation in the Central region of Russia, in Ukraine, in Moldova. Root crop weight: 70-130 g. Productivity: 420-670 q/ha. Not for long term storage. Excellent taste qualities. The variety is resistant to white rot, unpretentious to soils.
Variety "Rex" early ripe. For cultivation in the Central and Central Black Earth regions. Root crop weight: 180-210 g. Productivity: 330-800 q/ha. For long term storage. Excellent taste qualities. High yield, even root crops.
Hybrid "Buror F1" early ripe. For cultivation in the Central Black Earth region. Root crop weight: 60-120 g. Productivity: 210-620 q/ha. Excellent taste, high yield.
Hybrid "Parmex F1" early ripe. Root crop weight: 30-50 g. Productivity: 110-120 q/ha. Excellent palatability, small, spherical roots. Sweet taste. Good for canning in general. Not for long term storage.
Medium varieties of carrots (mid-season, mid-late)
Variety "Marlinka" mid-season. For cultivation in the Central region. Root crop weight: 90-175 g. Productivity: 260-580 q/ha. For long-term storage, canning and freezing. The variety is unpretentious to soils and climate.
Variety "Children's sweet" mid-season. For cultivation in Russia. Root mass - 130-200 g. Sweet, juicy, crunchy, with a high content of carotene. High yielding. For long term storage.
Variety "Children's joy" mid-season. Root mass - 150-170 g. Productivity - 7-8 kg / m2. Small core. Juicy, sweet, high in carotene. For long term storage. Stem resistance.
Variety "Nantes 2 Tito" mid-season. For cultivation in the Central, Middle Volga, Ural regions. Root crop weight: 170-180 g. Productivity: 430-570 q/ha. For long-term storage, canning and freezing. The variety is universal.
Variety "Nantes" mid-season. For cultivation in the Central and Central Black Earth regions. Root crop weight: 70-125 g. Productivity: 250-490 q/ha. The grade is steady against cracking and tsvetushnost. Universal, suitable for long-term storage, canning.
Variety "Lakomka" mid-season. For growing in different climatic zones. Root crop weight: 90-160 g. Productivity: 260-505 q/ha. High yield. Delicious root vegetables. Small core. Tender, juicy. Increased content of sugars and carotene. Perfectly stored without loss of taste. Suitable for making juices.
Variety "Nuance" mid-season. Root weight: 110-120 g. Yield: 4.2-6.4 kg/m². High yield. High content of carotene and sugars.
Variety "Vitamin 6" mid-season. Root mass: 60-165 g. Productivity: 3.7-7.8 kg/m2. Great taste. High content of sugars and carotene. The variety is resistant to flowering. The lightness is good. Recommended for fresh consumption and winter storage.
Variety "Losinoostrovskaya 13" mid-season. Root weight: 160-170 g. Yield: 6-8 kg/m2. A small core of a root crop. High content of carotene. Resistant to bloom.
Variety "Moscow winter A-515" mid-season. For cultivation in the Central and Central Black Earth regions. Root weight: 90-175 g. Productivity: 4.7-6.6 kg/m2. Long term storage. Large roots. Resistant to bloom.
Variety "Caramel" mid-season. Root mass: 95 - 160 g. High-yielding. Excellent taste, rich in sugars and carotene. For long term storage. Juicy, tender and very sweet. Suitable for making juices. The grade is steady against cracking and tsvetushnost.
Hybrid "Olympic F1" mid-season. For cultivation in the Central, Northwestern, West Siberian regions. Root crop weight: 100-120 g. Productivity: 440-640 q/ha. For long-term storage, juice production. High content of carotene.
Hybrid "Altair F1" mid-season. High yielding. High sugar content.
Hybrid "Honey-sugar F1" medium early. Small core. Juicy, sweet. High content of carotene and sugars. High-yielding, for long storage.
Hybrid "Lydia F1" mid-season. Root crop weight: 80-100 g. Productivity: 600-620 q/ha. For long-term storage, canning. Excellent taste qualities. Resistant to bloom and white rot.
Variety "Rosal" medium-late. For cultivation in the Central and Middle Volga regions. Root weight: 160-240 g. Yield: 315-815 q/ha. Medium keeping quality, suitable for canning and freezing.
Variety "Incomparable" medium-late. Root mass: 100 - 180 g. Productivity: 3.1-7.1 kg / m2. High yield, high content of carotene. Resistant to bloom. Well kept.
Hybrid "Nevis F1" mid-late. For cultivation in the Central, Northwestern, Far Eastern regions. Root weight: 110-160 g. Yield: 370-890 q/ha. For long term storage. High yield. The variety is resistant to white rot.
Carrots: late varieties and hybrids
Variety "Perfection" late-ripening. For cultivation in Russia, Ukraine, Moldova. Root crop weight: 100-120 g. Productivity: 230-480 q/ha. Medium keeping quality, high yield. Excellent taste, high content of carotene. The variety is unpretentious to soils, universal. Resistance to wet rot, drought.
Variety "Flaccoro" late-ripening. For cultivation in the Central region of Russia, in Ukraine, in Moldova. Root mass: 135-200 g. Yield: 340-880 q/ha. Good keeping quality + good for canning. Disease resistance.
Variety "Boltex" late-ripening. For cultivation in the Central region of Russia, in Ukraine, in Moldova. Root mass: 135-200 g. Yield: 340-880 q/ha. Good keeping quality + good for canning. Disease resistance. Large, but not long roots.
Variety "Koral" late-ripening. For cultivation in the Central region of Russia, in Ukraine, in Moldova. Root mass: 135-200 g. Yield: 340-880 q/ha. Good for processing and storage. Root crops are large, juicy and sweet.
Planting onions in the fall (before winter) Photo reviews description of the characteristics of varieties Sortovedru
In the "arsenal" of each gardener there is a whole stock of agricultural practices, which can be conditionally divided into mandatory and optional. The former include those without which the cultivation of vegetables is almost never complete - planting, watering, weeding, fertilizing, etc. And the latter - such methods of agricultural technology, which, oddly enough, can be compared with good habits: theoretically, they are not necessary, because it seems like you can do without them, but with correct application bring not only benefits, but also beneficial benefits. Such “good habits” of an experienced gardener, for example, can be called the use of crop rotation and green manure on the site, as well as sowing / planting vegetables before winter. Agree, unfortunately, not every amateur gardener is “interested” in regular crop rotation control in combination with sowing green manure, but such reasonable agricultural technology allows you to significantly increase productivity and reduce the likelihood of diseases and pests on the site. The same applies to the winter sowing of vegetables, which makes it possible to harvest in early spring - during the period of vitamin deficiency, and "save" on watering / weeding during autumn and spring work. Traditionally, experienced gardeners have always sown greens (parsley, dill, lettuce, spinach), radishes, beets and carrots before winter, but in the last few years, onion sets have also been added to them.
It must be said that many owners of household and summer cottages treat the autumn sowing of vegetables, to put it mildly, with distrust. Not only that, due to unpredictable weather conditions, the seeds can either start growing early (during a long autumn) or freeze out (during a harsh winter), it is also likely that beets and carrots can “go into bloom”; and the resulting early harvest is stored, as a rule, not too long. When growing onions, most amateur gardeners also prefer to adhere to the traditional scheme: in the spring they plant (sow) sevok to get a turnip crop by autumn, and early spring greens are grown exclusively from perennial varieties- multi-tiered, batun and chives, which grow in one place up to 5-6 years, winter with absolutely no problems, give several crops during the growing season and in terms of care cost a minimum of attention. However, as the practice of the last decade has shown, the autumn planting of onion sets has a lot of advantages even in comparison with the traditional cultivation of this crop and, oddly enough, often improves the attitude towards it even of those amateur gardeners who annually experience problems with growing onions ( for example, in the case of irregular watering in a summer cottage or a constant invasion of diseases and pests).
Firstly, when planting before winter, there is no need to store planting material for onion sets, which is especially important for the smallest bulbs - wild oats (less than 1 cm in diameter), which often dry out and deteriorate after wintering in a warm room. With the right autumn planting they are not only well preserved, but next year they grow to the size that a spring planting of a larger planting material usually gives (bulb 1.5 - 3 cm in diameter). Considering that during the spring planting of oatmeal, a crop of more “modest” sizes is always obtained, the winter planting can be considered a definitely more profitable option for growing it. As for the planting in the fall of other categories of onion sets - the first (1 - 1.5 cm), the second (1.5 - 3 cm) and the sample (more than 3 cm in diameter) - it is recommended to resort to it exclusively for growing onion greens or getting seeds. Since, in comparison with wild oats, such planting material in early spring gives more powerful greens, this is definitely beneficial in the case of the sale of such products. But, alas, due to the high tendency to shoot during autumn planting, the “traditional” high-quality crop from such bulbs is most likely lost, although there is an opportunity early receipt seeds (nigella), which, by the way, can also be successfully sown before winter.
Secondly, among the varieties of onion sets, there are those specially bred for autumn planting / sowing - the so-called "winter". Moreover, if varieties of other vegetable crops for winter sowing are chosen only on the basis of “short-day plants”, winter varieties of onion sets are characterized not only by the ability to form a high-quality crop under short and medium day conditions, but also by excellent frost resistance (up to minus 15 ° C in snowless winters and minus 25 °C under snow cover), as well as high resistance to bolting, pests and diseases. The following varieties and hybrids have such indispensable properties: Elodi, Senshui Yellow, Buffalo, Avanti, Augusta, Radar, Kip-Vell, Sturon, Danilovsky, Odintsovets ”, “Stuttgarten Riesen”, “Ibis F1”, “Imago F1”, “Balstar F1”, “Extra Early Gold F1”, “Music F1”, “Wolf F1”, “Radar F1”, “Panther F1” and others . And in the conditions of Siberia best results show varieties "Ellan", "Strigunovsky", "Swift", "Arzamas local", "Extra Ativ Parisien", "Bessonovsky", "Radar", "Malakoff", "Siberian early", "Siberia F1", "Echo F1 ", etc. Absolutely not suitable for winter planting / sowing are long-day varieties and hybrids, which, under similar conditions, experience poor wintering, abundant shooting, as well as a delay in the development and ripening of the crop.
Thirdly, the winter planting of onion sets allows you to get greens already in early May, and quality bulbs- at the end of June, while with traditional spring planting, these dates are shifted by 1 - 1.5 months - at least to June and August. And note: unlike other vegetable crops, the early harvest of winter onions is able to withstand a long winter storage with the same success as a turnip grown in the usual way (during spring planting / sowing).
Less noticeable, but no less significant advantages of winter onion sets include the fact that planted in autumn it needs much less watering, since in favorable weather it has time to develop normally solely due to precipitation and melt water, even in remote and rarely irrigated summer cottages. plots. In addition, during the winter, winter onions form a dense root lobe on the bottom, which in the spring protects it from damage by an onion fly, and the early ripening of plants, in turn, “provides” protection from downy mildew. As for saving time, this advantage can be considered relative, since some owners do not have enough time either in spring or in autumn. But with regard to saving the planting area before winter, many can help out, because on a bed freed from winter onions, you can grow another crop of early ripening vegetables before autumn.
Speaking about planting onions in the fall, one cannot but say that winter onion sets can be grown in two ways - from a small fraction (oatmeal) and from seeds. The agricultural technology of both methods is somewhat different, so it is worth considering the features of each of them. Oatmeal (as well as larger planting material) for a successful wintering should take root, but not germinate, and therefore it is planted at the same time as winter garlic - 3-4 weeks before the onset of stable frosts. These dates approximately fall on the period when frosts begin (at night the temperature regularly drops to minus 3 ° C), but the soil has not yet had time to freeze. Considering that in different regions weather are set differently, to determine the timing of the autumn planting of onions in Siberia, it is recommended to focus on the end of September - the beginning of October, in middle lane Russia - at the end of October - beginning of November, and in the south - at November. Onions should not be planted in more early dates, since for rooting it only takes 2 - 3 weeks, after which, with early landing it begins to grow and jeopardizes the future successful wintering. It is less risky to plant it a little (!) Later, but on a bed, previously covered with a dry leaf, which somewhat delays the rapid freezing of the soil. Please note: small onion sets planted in autumn do not need to be watered, but before planting, even oatmeal is strongly recommended to be sorted into small (up to 0.5 cm) and large (from 0.5 to 1 cm) fractions in order to maximally "align" seedlings in spring.
As for the cultivation of winter onions from nigella, a significant difference of this method is that the plants must go for wintering already grown up - with 3 - 4 leaves (diameter of the root collar 5 - 7 mm). With this in mind, the very procedure for sowing seeds will have to be carried out at the end of summer (mid-end of August), and then, with insufficient precipitation, until late autumn provide also periodic watering of sown beds. In comparison with the above method, growing winter onions from seeds looks more laborious and has more disadvantages. First, many owners do not like the need for watering in autumn time when most cultures no longer need it. Secondly, there is a high probability of incorrect calculation of sowing dates: too early increases the likelihood of shooting, and if it is too late, the plants do not have time to form enough greenery and overwinter worse. Thirdly, with this method, onions are susceptible to diseases and pests (and weeds) in the same way as with ordinary spring sowing. Nevertheless, experienced gardeners have learned to cope with all these shortcomings and even find their advantages in this method of growing winter onions. To combat diseases and pests, they compact or plant onion crops with rows of carrots, marigolds and calendula, which repel onion fly and Medvedka, fungicide treatments are connected. In order not to be mistaken with the timing of sowing, it is carried out in several visits, and in case of failure with the first batch, all of it is left for seeds. The main advantage is that already in the fall, lovers of autumn onion sowing have vitamin greens on the table, and in the spring, thinning out thickened crops, in addition to greens, they also get hardened seedlings, which are successfully transplanted to a new place. And, of course, by the beginning of June, they also harvest a fully ripened crop of turnip onions.
If planting winter onions in the fall is a new thing for you, then regardless of the chosen method of growing, prepare a place for this crop in advance - at least a month in advance. It should not be shaded, with a slight slope or on an elevation (without stagnant moisture after autumn precipitation or spring-winter snowmelt), with sandy or loamy, non-acid nutrient soil. Carrots are usually considered the best predecessor for onions, although it will also develop well after other crops (legumes, greens, early cabbage, potatoes, etc.), but only if they were collected no later than mid-July. In open areas, it is advisable to foresee preventive measures for snow retention (sowing sunflower, corn, calendula, etc. backstage across the direction of the prevailing winds) in case of a too harsh winter, as well as the possibility of covering the beds with agrofiber or a light layer of mulch.
Soil preparation should begin with harvesting the predecessor and controlling weeds. The earth needs to be deeply loosened with a pitchfork, remove the roots of weeds and apply fertilizer for digging at the rate of 2-3 kg of humus and 2 tablespoons of superphosphate for each square meter area. If there is no humus, you can enrich the soil with mineral fertilizers - use 20–25 g of superphosphate and 10–15 g of potassium salt or 30 g of ecofoska per square meter of area. After digging, the bed must be carefully leveled and left for a month to shrink the earth.
For sowing onion seeds (at the end of August), you need to make shallow grooves (2 - 3 cm) with a row spacing of 35 - 40 cm and sow at the rate of approximately 35 - 40 seeds per linear meter. High density is recommended only if the seeds have poor germination. After the procedure, the grooves should be carefully filled and compacted, and then, in dry weather, at least once a week, water one and a half and, with the emergence of seedlings, regularly loosen the aisles and remove weeds. Plants ripe for winter care (bulbs with 3-4 leaves) are recommended to be lightly spudded for the winter (by 5-7 cm) to protect the bulbs from bulging and freezing, and organize easy shelter of the beds with spruce branches, dry tops and other improvised material for snow retention . In the event of a threat of a harsh winter, the use of agrofibre (white, light and breathable) is very effective, but it is necessary to cover the beds with it immediately before the onset of frost, since too early shelter, alas, negatively affects onion wintering. In the spring, even before the start of the growing season (as soon as the ground begins to thaw), the mulching material (or agrofibre) should be removed and the compacted soil should be loosened. In the future, until the beginning of summer, caring for beds of winter onions is no different from the traditional care of onions planted in spring, and includes, as necessary, weed control, pests and diseases, fertilization and regular watering. Please note: in order to obtain a high-quality crop of turnip onions, the density of its sowing after leaving wintering should be no more than 12 - 15 bulbs per linear meter, therefore, with greater thickening in early spring, it is recommended to thin out the crops as soon as possible, and use the uprooted plants for greens or in as seedlings for spring plantings.
For planting a small fraction of onion sets in the fall (in September - November), soil preparation should be carried out in the same way, but watering, as mentioned above, is not necessary. Note: before winter, onion sets are recommended to be planted a little deeper than during spring planting - to a depth of 4-5 cm. 2 - 3 onions with the same interval and a distance of 2 - 3 cm between the bulbs in the nest. After the procedure, the furrows should be covered with loose soil, and already with the onset of frost, cover the bed with a layer of light mulch - plant tops, wood shavings, coniferous litter, spruce branches, etc. - and, if necessary, attach large branches from above for snow retention. Note: peat and sawdust are not entirely suitable for these purposes, since the mulch from such materials is compacted, accumulates too much moisture and thaws very slowly in the spring, which in turn delays the warming of the soil and the start of the growing season. In the future, active care for winter onions planted in this way begins only in early spring with the removal of mulch to warm the soil as soon as possible, and with the advent of seedlings, it includes “standard” weeding, watering and fertilizing plantings.
Despite the fact that the technology of planting onions before winter is somewhat different from the traditional one, of course, it cannot be called too complicated. The main rules are: do not plant onions in the lowlands so that they do not rot due to wetting, do not cover too early so as not to provoke damping off, and do not overfeed them with nitrogen fertilizers in autumn so as not to stimulate active growth greens to the detriment of the main crop of turnip onions. As practice has confirmed, the correct approach to this agrotechnical technique with a reasonable choice of varieties gives the gardener the opportunity to “regulate” the process of growing onions and the timing of obtaining both greens and a high-quality crop of turnips and planting material (seeds and small fractions of onion sets) at lower organizational costs irrigation and control of diseases and pests. Make planting and sowing onions in the fall at least temporarily your “good habit” and soon you will not only not want to give it up, but will recommend it to all your friends.
Leek from sowing to harvesting My garden garden Piggy bank of summer experience
- 1 Onion without bulb
- 1.1 What is useful pearl prince
- 2 Choosing a variety for our garden
- 2.1 Early maturing
- 2.2 Mid-season
- 2.3 Late ripening
- 3 The life of a young onion
- 3.1 Helpful Hints
- 4 Planting leeks in the garden
- 5 Competent care is the basis of a rich harvest
- 6 Harvest and storage
Hello dear readers!
And 70 years ago, leeks were unknown to us. Although leek has long been a familiar, well-studied culture for mankind.
The ancient Egyptian manuscripts that archaeologists have recently unearthed talked about the diet of the pyramid builders, which included this culture.
- Where exactly the leek came from, scientists still have not figured out, they suggest that its historical homeland is the regions of Mesopotamia (the territory of modern Iran and Iraq).
But even now, leeks are not very common in our country and household plots, although it is a very healthy plant.
And all because, probably, it has a rather long growing season (150-200 days), so it is very laborious in the growing process, since it must be planted through seedlings.
This scares many summer residents, because tomato seedlings need to be grown, and peppers, and then onions.
But still, leeks are worth planting. After all, it has a lot of useful properties, excellent taste.
Onion without bulb
Leek (or pearl onion) - biennial herbaceous plant, a close relative of the onion.
But, unlike its counterpart, the leek does not have such a large bulb; its long leaves and flexible stem are used for food.
Leek is just a gigantic vegetable, its strong belt-like leaves can rise almost a meter above the bed.
Near the ground, they join into a bundle and go to the depths. If we dig into the earth, we will see a thickened false stem, or "white leg", of the purest pearl white color.
This "white leg" is the main edible part of the plant, the most valuable part.
The leek begins to form a powerful root system in the first year of life, simultaneously with the development of roots, it grows a whole fan of flat, long leaves.
The bulb of this culture is also present, but it is small in size, sometimes it is not at all.
Another characteristic feature of the leek is that it does not have a dormant period and it produces new leaves until late autumn, without stopping growth.
In the second year after planting, the onion forms a flower-bearing arrow. In mid-summer, this arrow produces many buds, which soon turn into fragrant whitish, pinkish or purple flowers.
For this fragrance large quantities bumblebees, bees and other flower flies flock.
Onion honey has an amazing emerald color and does not crystallize in honeycombs for a long time.
By the end of September, leek seeds ripen, which resemble strong faceted grains of charcoal.
If you want to stock up on your leek seeds, then cut off the seed umbels, tie them into bunches and hang them for ripening (until the seeds are fully ripe).
What is useful pearl prince
Leek is liked by many people; in its taste, it practically does not differ from its fellow, green onion.
But few people know what this plant has beneficial features much higher in performance than onion brothers.
Medicinal properties. Do you want to know what diseases pearl onions help get rid of?
- Joint diseases. Leek has a high content of sulfur compounds. Due to this, the daily use of onion culture stops inflammation in the bones and joints.
- Anemia. Onions have a lot of iron - an important substance for the synthesis of hemoglobin. Helps to restore its level and increased content of vitamin C in the leek.
- Problems of the gastrointestinal tract. Leek contributes to the settlement of vital microorganisms in the human intestine. They form a healthy flora and reduce inflammation.
- High cholesterol. Pearl onion prevents the appearance of cholesterol plaques, its regular use lowers these figures.
- Diseases of the lungs. Leek has a lot of essential oils that have a calming effect on the body. Pearl onions are especially good for flu prevention.
- Tumors of the prostate and intestines. Leek has a very rare substance in its composition - quercetin. This plant flavonoid inhibits the development of various tumors.
- Eye problems. If you suffer from poor eyesight, leek will help you. Its composition is replete with elements that have a beneficial effect on visual acuity.
Traditional medicine successfully uses pearl onions for problems with the liver and gallbladder. Also, the plant has a diuretic property and is able to free the body from toxins and toxins.
Leek harm. Leek has no clearly expressed contraindications. But doctors still advise careful use of the plant (especially fresh) in case of serious diseases of the intestines and stomach.
Refrain from eating leeks if you have low blood sugar - onions can lower it even more.
Gastronomic delights. At a young age, you can eat both the lower part of the leek and the upper part of the leek.
Green young leek is good in salads and soups. Vegetable stew, if leek is added to it, becomes fragrant, sweetness and tender sharpness appear in it.
As the plant grows, the upper leaves coarsen and only the lower part of the onion, the false stem, is eaten.
Leek is the most valuable dietary product.
Choosing a variety for our garden
Thanks to the work of breeders, many varieties are represented on the modern market. All types of pearl onions are divided according to the ripening period.
Let's choose leeks, the varieties of which are presented in the best selection in terms of taste.
early ripe
pearl bow with early period ripening is considered the most fruitful among the brethren.
It will be possible to collect it already 130-150 days after sowing. But be aware that it won't last long.
♦ Goliath. The culture is medium in height (the bleached part of the onion is about 25-30 cm). This beauty can be consumed fresh or dried. But Goliath requires close attention to himself in care - his immune qualities are weakly expressed.
♦ Kilim. Leek of this variety ripens 7-10 days later than other early-ripening species, it is universal in purpose and has a denser and shorter stem (its length barely reaches 20-25 cm).
♦ Vesta. Particularly suitable for growing in the middle region. The white legs are long, can grow up to 50 cm. The taste of this pearl onion is slightly sharp, but Vesta's immune qualities are very well developed.
♦ Columbus. This one high culture among early ripe varieties. long leaves able to grow up to 80 cm, and the mass of the legs reaches 400 g. Onions have excellent taste.
Mid-season
Vegetables with average ripening rates are not so productive, but they are superior to early-ripening varieties in terms of agrotechnical qualities.
Mid-season species ripen in 150-180 days. The crop is well preserved (it can be saved until March).
These varieties have excellent frost-resistant qualities (withstand cold down to -7 ° C). During colder winters (with average temperature below -15 ° C), mid-season varieties need shelter.
♦ Casimir. Leek of German selection. Its onion is very weakly expressed and may be completely absent. But the bleached part is of excellent quality, has a length of up to 25 cm and a diameter of about 5 cm.
♦ Camus. The fruit of the labors of Czech breeders. Not very long (only up to 18 cm) bleached part and a slightly pronounced bulb. Sometimes the leaves can take on a purple hue. The variety is able to resist fungal diseases.
♦ Bastion. The "earliest" of the mid-season species (the crop is ready for harvest in 150-160 days). Onion leaves have a blue-green or gray-green color, the bleached part grows up to 30-35 cm.
♦ Tango. The most productive variety of pearl onions. It has high cold hardiness and disease resistance. The length of the bleached part is up to 15 cm, the onion is mild.
late ripening
The slowest varieties of pearl onions (they ripen from 180 days after planting). In terms of yield, they are similar to mid-season species.
Late-ripening varieties are distinguished by tougher leaves and a pronounced sharpness of taste. They can be stored until summer.
♦ Asgeos. Leek of Russian selection. It is excellent for cultivation in the harsh conditions of Siberia. Dark green leaves can grow up to 70 cm. The bulb is weakly expressed, its bleached part barely reaches 20 cm, but the weight of an adult plant can vary within 400 g.
♦ Greywing. This species is distinguished by a plump bleached part. The leaves are rich green with a slight blue. It tolerates winters well (not too harsh) and has a mildly spicy taste.
♦ Elephant. Variety bred by Czech breeders. The plant is able to grow up to 80-90 cm in length and reach a weight of 200 g. The taste of Elefant is specific, quite sharp.
♦ Mercury. Pearl onion with leaves of a rich green color and up to 25 cm long. The mass of the plant is not so large (about 150 g), but with good care it can reach 200 g. This variety is resistant to various viral diseases.
The life of a young bow
Successful cultivation of leeks can be done in two ways:
We will consider here the seedling method, as the most common.
Getting healthy and strong leek seedlings at home is a bit of a hassle, but not at all difficult. We need to arm ourselves with soil, a growing container and plastic wrap.
Before telling how to grow leeks, let's decide on the conditions in which young seedlings will be grown.
The timing of sowing seeds depends on this:
- The second half of February - March (seeds are planted in seedling boxes and kept on the window).
- Mid-April (sowing is done in a heated greenhouse).
- End of April (on prepared beds under the film).
A pearl onion has about 10-12 hours of daylight. Therefore, if you are going to sow it in February, organize additional illumination.
♦ Seed preparation. Before sowing leeks, the seeds must be lowered for a few seconds in hot water temperature of about +45 ° C, then immediately cool by filling with cold water.
After “bathing”, the seeds are placed inside a damp, warm gauze and left to germinate in a warm place (at a temperature of + 25 ° C). After a few days, they will begin to sprout.
- Know that leek seeds can be stored for up to 3 years, the main thing is to keep them in a warm, dry place, avoiding sudden changes in humidity and temperature.
♦ Seeding. Sowing leek is best done in pots filled with moist soil. We arrange the seeds in rows (the distance between the rows should be about 5 cm), the depth of the grooves is 1-1.5 cm.
Seeds are sprinkled on top of the earth and cover the pots with polyethylene. Our boxes should be kept warm (from +23°C to +24°C), in a well-lit place.
When the first timid sprouts appear, the film must be removed and the temperature of the content should be lowered:
- During the day from + 15 ° С to + 17 ° С.
- At night from +10° С to +12° С.
In this mode, young leek seedlings will spend about a week. Then we slightly increase the temperature of the content: during the day from + 17 ° C to + 21 ° C, at night from + 12 ° C to + 14 ° C. This regime should be maintained until the very end of seedling cultivation.
- Compliance with such temperature conditions is very important for the future harvest. Too much heat during the period of growing seedlings, it is fraught with the fact that in the future the leek will form a flower arrow in the first year of development (and not in the second, as expected).
After a month, we need to thin out the leek crops, trying to keep the distance between plants about 2-3 cm in one row. Seedlings dive into small (4 cm in diameter) pots.
But it is best to sow the seeds as infrequently as possible in order to avoid picking. Leek seedlings do not tolerate picking well (in my experience) and are delayed in development for a long time.
Our seedlings will be ready to move into adult living conditions only when they reach three or four true leaves, which will be approximately 15-18 cm long and have a stem diameter of about 0.8 cm.
This usually takes about 8 weeks.
Planting leeks in the garden
The best place to grow leeks will be light loamy areas. When preparing the beds, apply compost to the intended place in the fall (5-6 kg per m²).
In the spring, you can add a little compost or humus to the plots (about 2-3 kg per m²).
No need to dig up the beds!
- The best predecessors for leeks: cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, cabbage and legumes.
Leek is planted on the ridges in the month of May. In front of her, in young seedlings, it is necessary to shorten the roots and leaves by 1/3 of the length.
Vegetable roots can be coated with mash (a mixture of cow dung and clay in equal amounts). This method will help the plant to quickly and firmly settle in its new place.
Before landing on the selected site, we prepare grooves deep enough, up to 15-16 cm, pour a little ash on their bottom, mix and spill well.
We lay out the seedlings in the prepared grooves one at a time. Then we carefully sprinkle the roots with soil on ½ of the groove and water it, but a little, since the earth is already well spilled.
Thus, our seedlings turn out to be, as it were, in a trench that will protect it from the cold wind.
If the weather is still cool, you can cover the plantings with any covering material.
For pearl onions, it is better to use the following planting patterns:
- Double row. Distance between crops 15-20cm, row spacing 30-35cm.
- Multi-row. The distance between seedlings is 10-15 cm, and the row spacing is 20-30 cm.
Advice. If you leave more space between the rows, you can plant carrots, onions, beets, cabbage, celery and garden strawberries. These cultures get along well with him.
Competent care is the basis of a rich harvest
To grow strong leeks, care must be taken with special attention and care. After all, the yield, thickness and size of the leaves depend on its quality.
♦ Proper watering. Water is an important basis for the proper development of leeks.
Leek requires abundant and regular watering. Moisture he needs moisture from the moment of planting young seedlings and throughout the entire growing season.
But it’s still not worth watering the onion too actively - observe a reasonable measure.
♦ Loosening. Another important procedure for the good development of the leek. By loosening the soil, we give the plant the necessary oxygen and stimulate the penetration of life-giving moisture to the roots.
Loosen pearl onions should be every week or two. During the event, constantly sprinkle fresh earth to the main stem of the vegetable. Start pouring fresh soil after the stem diameter reaches 0.5-0.7 cm.
♦ Hilling. Hilling onion plantings should begin after the leek grows, gradually adding soil to the stems from the walls of our trenches.
Spud your pearl prince every 2 weeks. This will allow the onion to grow a longer stalk with a nice bleached part.
In the future, so that the soil does not get into leaf wraps, earthing can be replaced with high mulching of plantings with dry grass or wrapping the stems with thick paper.
♦ Top dressing. Many gardeners do not feed leeks.
But, if you want to get the maximum yield of the most delicious, juicy, sweet leek, still spend your time on top dressing.
It is worth holding events 2-3 times per season, alternating organic and mineral fertilizers. The first top dressing is usually done three weeks after planting.
Best suited for leek dressing solutions from:
- Cow dung (1 part mullein to 8 parts water).
- Bird droppings (for 20 parts of water, 1 part of droppings).
♦ Down with the weeds. Of course, it is necessary to destroy the weeds in a timely manner, which strive to settle on the onion beds.
Better refuse to use chemicals in weeding - because we need an environmentally friendly product! So, drive away laziness and regularly free plantings from weeds with your own hands.
Harvesting and storage
So, our bow is ripe. Harvesting is a troublesome, but at the same time, joyful activity.
How can we better manage the wealth we have grown?
First of all, we carefully dig out part of the crop from the soil, trying not to get the earth in the area between the leaves of the plant. We clean it from the ground and partially cut the roots (without damaging the bottom of the bulb).
There is no need to cut the leaves - their pruning will lead to premature drying of the vegetable. This part of the onion crop can be sent for storage.
You can store it in the following ways:
♦ Fresh look. When fresh, leeks are great for keeping healthy in the sand, in the refrigerator or on the balcony.
- In sand. Vegetables should be placed there immediately after harvesting. Take a box, pour sand on its bottom with a layer of 5 cm. Onions should be placed there vertically, another layer of wet is poured between them. river sand 15 cm. Leek can be stored there for up to six months, provided that the air temperature is around zero degrees.
- In a refrigerator. Choose the strongest plants, clean them and trim the roots. Then they should be cooled (without packaging) to a temperature of -2° C to +2° C. After that, you need to quickly pack the chilled onions in perforated plastic bags. Up to 8 leeks can be placed in each bag. Under these conditions, the leek is stored for up to 5 months.
- On the balcony. If it is well covered, then it will easily endure slight frosts. And even if it freezes a little, it doesn’t matter, because even when frozen, the leek does not lose its taste.
Plants stored fresh should be checked regularly. Remove all dried or stunted stems immediately, otherwise you risk losing the entire crop.
♦ Freezing. We wash the peeled onions well and dry them. Then cut into slices of 3-4 cm and blanch for 4-5 minutes.
Refrigerate and place in plastic bags or plastic containers and place in the freezer. We freeze at a temperature of minus 18 degrees.
I have frozen leeks without blanching.
♦ We dry for the winter. Dried leeks are mainly used for seasoning. You can dry it in the oven or electric dryer.
When dried, the leek completely loses its slight bitterness and acquires a sweetish taste. It can be safely added to every meat, vegetable or fish dish, the taste of which will noticeably improve.
We will leave a few plants to winter in the garden. Some of them can be dug up in May for food, and the other part can be left to get their seeds.
Landings can be insulated with dry peat, spruce branches.
Interesting! While the leek sleeps during wintering, the content of vitamins in it not only does not decrease, but, on the contrary, increases.
Now, knowing some secrets of growing leek, I hope that you will boldly take up the cultivation of this interesting, and, most importantly, the most useful vegetable.
Traditionally, I suggest watching a few videos from Yulia Minyaeva on this topic.
See you soon, dear readers!
Proper seedling. Soil preparation and containers for seedlingsLet me introduce you - oat rootHow to defeat weeds
Previously, Siberians did not have the problem of choosing a variety of onion sets. Either they planted their own sevka, which, at least poorly, but survived until planting, or purchased it on the market or in a store.
Usually appeared on sale variety Strigunovsky or just sevoc, without varietal affiliation. Now gardeners are faced with a choice. Five varieties are proposed, and most are unfamiliar. It - Stuttgarter Riesen, Shturon, Centurion, Orion, Red Baron.
What kind of bow under such loud names? Where is he from? Nobody wants to just bury money in the ground - you need to be sure that this set will not fail and a good harvest will be obtained. So get to know Mosselman, a Dutch agribusiness, Europe's leading company in all things to do with onions. The production of onion sets of the best varieties for sale in many European countries and the cultivation of ready-made onion turnips are the main areas of the company's work. Agrofirma Mosselman is a real Onion King: many years of practice, reliable varieties, high-quality seeds, regular customers from different countries. It is Mosselman (the company is named after its owner) that is the birthplace of the above-mentioned sevka offered to our Siberian gardeners.
Any of us knows how important storage mode is for sevka. Humidity is a little more than normal - it rots, a little less - it dries out, the temperature is not observed - it shoots. Losses - up to 50%! With sevk from Mosselman, such troubles do not happen. Optimal Mode storage is observed from beginning to end, and high-quality sets allow you to get turnips as well as for selection. The specialists of the agrofirm must take into account the climatic features of the region and offer exactly those varieties that can give a good harvest in this particular region. This approach is beneficial primarily to the agricultural company Mosselman, not only to the customer. Regular customers who trust its products are necessary for further successful work.
Onion varieties for the harsh conditions of Siberia should be the most resistant. They must perform well on poor podzolic soils and quickly mature beyond short summer. The entire crop should be successfully stored for a long winter. At the same time, unpretentiousness in relation to watering, weeding and top dressing is desirable, since not every gardener can devote a lot of time to care. And, of course, disease resistance. It is by these criteria that the varieties offered to you are selected.
Stuttgarter Riesen has been cultivated for several years Siberian land. Known and loved by many. Unpretentious, fruitful, long-term storage, resistant to diseases. The bulbs of Stuttgarter Riesen, rounded flat with yellow coloring of dry scales, came to their spicy taste to everyone who grew them. But the selection of bows of the Stuttgarter Riesen type continues. The form and color of the bulb, the friendliness of ripening, productivity, marketability, and keeping quality are being worked out further.
Much attention is paid to the development of varieties with increased resistance to diseases. Downy mildew (peronosporosis) bypasses Stuttgarter Riesen. But there are also such onion ailments as cervical rot, bacteriosis, and mosaic. Further improvement of the variety Stuttgarter Riesen in these areas led to the birth varieties Shturon and Centurion. Noted: a more rounded shape of the bulb, a small bottom, which is convenient for consumption; perfect alignment of the bulbs (as in the selection). The ability to store, productivity, early maturity and unpretentiousness, of course, are not inferior to those of the Stuttgarter Riesen. Shturon is offered for the first time, but, judging by its origin, it promises to please gardeners.
Among sharp onions with yellow coloring of dry scales and a rounded bulb - variety Orion. Productive, with good disease resistance, Orion will definitely find its fans (bows over the beds) among gardeners.
For lovers of barbecue under onion marinade - grade Red Baron. Better marinade than Red Baron onion, you can’t cook. Spicy taste, red dry scales and pink juicy ones! A great addition to salads, preparations and second courses! The bulbs are round, medium in size, it is advisable to use soon after harvest - the variety is limited in storage.
Many will like the precocious grade Serpentine, created at the West Siberian vegetable station. It is characterized by high yield, fruit quality and relatively high disease resistance. It enters fruiting amicably, on the 38th day from the emergence of seedlings. The stem with short lateral shoots grows up to 70-120 cm. There are many female flowers on the plant, located mainly on the main stem in the axils lower leaves, but there are also many male flowers. Ripe greens are small, weighing 70-75 g, elongated-ovate, with large tubercles and black spikes. It is interesting that from a third to a half of the fruit is covered with a pattern in the form of blurry stripes, like serpentine ribbons, this feature suggested such an unusual name to breeders.
They need to be collected regularly and often. Harvest 4.5-5 kg per 1 sq.m. For three years, the breeders of Serpentin were compared with Vyaznikovsky 37 and Altai. It turned out that it is more resistant to false powdery mildew and bacteriosis, more productive. In terms of sugar content, Serpentine is not inferior to the “old-timers”, but surpasses them in taste. All three varieties quickly, on average in 24 days, give their harvest, and half of it - in the first ten days after the start of fruiting. The best time for sowing seeds of the Serpentine variety in open ground is May 22-25. Normal care: weeding, loosening row spacing, watering (according to the weather), top dressing with crystallin (1 hour Spoon per 10 liters of water per 1 sq. M.).
Not so long ago, another mid-early onion suitable for growing in Siberia was bred - cultivar Firefly. Climbing variety. Fruits are tuberculate, covered with white thorns. Plants begin to bear fruit on the 44th day from germination, which is a week earlier famous variety phoenix. But in terms of productivity, the Firefly exceeds the phoenix by 2.5 times. It is also interesting that the Firefly is not inferior to the phoenix in terms of disease resistance, but it is much tastier in salad and marinade.
The color of the bulbs is golden yellow, the shape is oval. Keeps well (only needs to dry for about two weeks). I store in braids and in low boxes.
To get early greens, in February (around the 15th) I cut off the top of the head to the shoulders. I soak overnight in warm water with potassium permanganate (light solution), and the next day I put it in pallets with a layer of 5 cm of soil, in a bridge way - close to each other.
I fill the top with sand so that there are no midges. A month later, the greens are ready.
We eat ourselves, and sell the surplus on the market - an increase in pensions. Yes, and at least some work.
I have another variety of onions - multi-tiered, also a favorite. Frost withstands up to -45 °. It seems that when the snow melts in spring, it has already begun to grow. It turns out he doesn't have a dormant period.
In Western Siberia, the growth of green mass in winter is held back by severe frosts. Reproduction occurs by onion bulbs, which are formed on the arrow, and by dividing the bulbs. My fart is unpretentious, but it does not refuse good land either. I pamper him: I water him when it's hot, I feed him with organic matter, the bed is in a sunny place, well seasoned with humus.
After 3-4 years, the bulbs need to be dug up, divided and planted, because the onion grows rapidly. You need to sit down either in the spring or in August. Bulbs are stored up to 5 months. It is necessary to collect them in August and immediately plant them in the beds. The feather, if not cut, can grow up to 65 cm in height.
This is the most productive onion, which gives a large amount of green mass. A cut feather can lie for 3-4 days and not fade, and after cutting, a new one quickly grows. I bought it and don't regret it.
Vera Alexandrovna Ratkova Barabinsk Novosibirsk region
