Rules for planting daffodils in the fall. Tag: Planting daffodils in the fall when and how to plant. How to choose quality daffodil bulbs

One of the first in early spring tulips, crocuses and daffodils bloom. Planting daffodils and care open field require certain knowledge and skills of gardeners, since non-compliance with agricultural cultivation techniques can lead to the death of flowers.

Many beginner gardeners don't know when to plant daffodils outdoors. The timing of planting bulbous crops is determined by the characteristics of the climatic zone of growth. So, in the central regions of Russia, it is recommended to plant bulbous ornamental crops in open ground in mid-September. In the southern regions, where warm and dry autumn prevails, planting dates can be shifted to October.

Optimal period for planting daffodils in open ground - the average daily air temperature is 8-10 ° C above zero for 10-14 days. Failure to meet planting dates is fraught with freezing planting material at the first hard frost.

It is equally important to correctly determine the place for planting flowers. Daffodils grow well in well-lit areas of the garden, where there is partial shade from tall fruit and ornamental crops. At the same time, try to avoid swampy areas and wind-blown areas of the garden. Occurrence level ground water- no higher than 60 cm from the ground. Excess moisture in the soil is the main cause of mold and fungal spores on plant rhizomes.

Daffodils feel good and grow well in loamy soil with an acidity level of no more than 6–7.5 pH. Excess alkali in the soil can be neutralized with wood or dolomite flour.

As for planting material, it is recommended to pay attention to the hardness, size and integrity of the bulbs. Soft, rotten, damaged by insects and weather conditions, the bulbs do not adapt well to the new growing environment and do not give abundant flowering. Such flowers will not survive even one season.

Video: "Agrotechnology for growing bulbous flowers: planting daffodils"

This video shows how to properly plant flower bulbs in formed beds.

The best varieties

Success autumn planting is determined by the literacy of the choice of planting material, taking into account varietal characteristics cultures. According to the international classification system, today 12 types of daffodils are represented in the horticultural world: small-crowned, large-crowned, split-crowned, tubular, cyclamen-shaped, terry, tacetate, poetic, etc.

The most popular and widespread varieties among Russian gardeners are Crackington, Ice King, Pink Champagne, Mount Hood, Rosy Cloud, Golden Harvest, Spring Pride, Orange Monarch, Painted Desert, Golden Ducat, Barret Brownung, Tahiti, White Lion, Rip van Winkle and Baby Dole.

Landing features

Often the reproduction of daffodils occurs by rhizomes. The optimal period for this procedure depends on the climate and varietal features cultivated culture. So, the terms of autumn planting have a long period - from the end of August to the second decade of October.

Only thoroughly dried and treated with potassium permanganate rhizomes should be planted in the ground, otherwise the likelihood of planting material rotting increases. The depth of penetration can vary from 12 to 20 cm, while small and weak bulbs should not be planted deeper than 10 cm. When forming beds and holes, you need to maintain a distance.

The scheme for planting daffodils in open ground is simple. First you need to clear the area, form beds and holes, moisten the soil and fill the bottom with a layer of coarse-grained river sand with wood ash. Then you should deepen the bulbs, sprinkle them with earth and mulch. If planting takes place in dry and cool weather, it is recommended to insulate the planted flowers with a covering non-woven fabric.

Aftercare

For quick adaptation, good growth and abundant flowering, daffodils need care. Despite excellent endurance and unpretentiousness to growing conditions, improper watering, lack of oxygen and micronutrients in the soil leads to a deterioration in the decorative qualities of the flower.

Flowers growing in the garden need to be fertilized several times per season. The first fertilizing with nitrogen-containing preparations is carried out in the spring, when the bulbs begin to sprout from the ground. The second and third stages of fertilization fall on the periods of budding and flowering. The last top dressing falls in the fall - it is at this time that the preparation of horticultural crops for the upcoming winter begins. In autumn, complex potassium-phosphorus mixtures are introduced into the soil.

Agricultural secrets

According to the cultivation technique, daffodils cannot grow in one place for more than 5–6 years. In recent years, the duration of flowering has been decreasing, the buds have become smaller. For this reason, it is recommended to replant bulbous crops every 3-4 years. Cut daffodils are transplanted every year. Such flowers have long and stable stems, lush and large buds.

Every 4 years, daffodils growing in group flower arrangements are transplanted. When planting, the bulb is buried deeper than the recommended value. Ideal "neighbors" are peonies, violets, root parsley and even carrots. It is not recommended to plant daffodils next to asters, daylilies and irises.

Many are interested in whether flowering daffodils can be transplanted. Transplanting during flowering is undesirable, but possible. But it is impossible to transplant daffodils immediately after flowering!

Watering and loosening the soil

Daffodils belong to the group of moisture-loving flowering crops. It is necessary to moisten the soil during the formation of buds and at the flowering stage. At the end of flowering, it is recommended to continue to abundantly moisten the soil under the daffodils for another 1.5–2 weeks. However, if the summer turned out to be rainy and cool, the frequency of watering can be reduced several times.

After each watering, flower beds need loosening and weeding. Removing weed grass and loosening the top layer of soil are necessary measures for oxygen access to the rhizomes of flowers.

Major diseases

Following the rules of agricultural technology increases the resistance of crops growing in the garden to pathogens various diseases and invasions of harmful insects. Occasionally, in beds with daffodils, you can find signs of the presence of tuberculate hoverfly, narcissus fly, onion horse mite, cicada, whitefly and nematodes. Bulbous ornamental crops are characterized by fungal infections such as fusarium, gray rot, ring spot, penicillium rot, etc.

Prevent the appearance of harmful insects on flower beds and the development of various diseases is possible through the preventive treatment of plants with insecticidal and fungicidal preparations of a new generation.

bulb conservation

Bulb flowers can be dug up at the end of the flowering stage, when the leaves turn completely yellow and begin to separate easily. First, the tubers of daffodils are dried in a well-ventilated area, where direct sunlight does not fall. Then the bulbs are cleaned: loose and dry scales are removed.

Store rhizomes treated with potassium permanganate in cardboard boxes or wooden boxes. First time average temperature indoor air should be within +24 °C, in winter and early spring - no higher than +14 °C.

Reproduction methods

For the propagation of bulbous crops, two methods are used: vegetative and seed. Let's look at each of them step by step.

Vegetative technique

It is worth noting that during the growing season the daffodil rhizome is divided into 2-4 parts. The healthiest-looking specimens are planted, which are thoroughly dried beforehand and treated with a light solution of potassium permanganate.

The algorithm for the vegetative method of propagation of bulbous crops is as follows:

Prepare planting material.
Determine a place for planting flowers, clear it of debris, weeds and other vegetation.
Carry out liming of the soil.
Dig up the beds, form holes at a distance of at least 8-12 cm from each other.
Water the formed holes.
Dip 1-2 bulbs into each hole, sprinkle them with soil.
Water the beds and mulch them with sawdust or humus.

seeds

The seed method of breeding flowers consists in sowing freshly harvested and not yet dried seed material. You can plant seeds both in summer and in late autumn. The seed propagation method requires a lot of time and attention of gardeners:

Prepare a container for planting seeds or clear the garden area of excess vegetation.
Plant the seeds in the soil to a depth corresponding to three seed diameters.
For two years, take care of the flower beds: remove weeds, water the plants and loosen the soil.
At the end of the 2-year dormant period, when the bulbs are formed and grow to normal size, young rhizomes can be transplanted to permanent place growth.

Video: "Lack of flowering in daffodils"

Daffodils love moisture, so the lack of fluid in the soil negatively affects budding and flowering. For lush flowering, it is recommended to moisten the soil under the bulbous flowers weekly or as the soil dries out. You can determine the level of soil moisture by the top layer: the earth that has dried out by 2-3 cm needs to be moistened.

After each watering, do not forget to loosen the soil. The crust formed on the surface of the earth prevents normal air exchange. Disturbed air circulation, in turn, leads to a decrease in inflorescences or their complete absence. The soil saturated with oxygen and enriched with various nutritious and useful micro and macro elements is an ideal environment for the normal life of crops growing in the garden.

Proper preparation for wintering is considered one of the milestones in the care of flowering crops. Most varieties of daffodils - terry, cyclamen, triandrus, tacet, etc. - need to be covered for the winter. The absence of a covering layer leads to glaciation of the upper layer of the bulbs, the plants stop developing or die altogether. Bulb flowers sheltered for the winter will delight gardeners with lush and long flowering.

Rookie Mistakes

Often, novice gardeners complain about the lack of flowering in daffodils. So, nitrogen-containing substances introduced under the bush during the period of vegetative growth of plants suppress budding, promote active growth and development of green mass. Also, fertilizing with organic fertilizers negatively affects the budding and flowering of daffodils.

Incorrectly chosen place for landing, lack of natural light, the proximity of groundwater, drafts and gusty winds - all this leads to a deterioration in the development of bulbous flowers. Plants go to sleep - there is no flowering.

The method of propagation of daffodils by seeds requires certain knowledge and skills. Most beginner gardeners are not prepared to wait several years for the bulbs to form and be ready for planting in their permanent home. The haste and early extraction of planting material from the familiar environment affects the growth and development of flowers. The likelihood that such daffodils will take root and begin to bloom is almost zero.

Daffodils are considered one of the most unpretentious bulbous flowers. Compliance with simple rules of planting, growing and care allows you to achieve lush and long flowering. For this reason, daffodils are often used to decorative design garden plots and creating original flower arrangements in city parks and squares.

Daffodils, along with tulips, are the most popular bulbous flowers grown in many summer cottages. They belong to perennial variety therefore, the duration and quality of their flowering in subsequent years depends on the observance of the planting dates and the rules of subsequent care. All the features associated with these processes will be discussed in detail in the proposed article.

When is the best time to plant daffodils: planting dates at different times of the year

Planting daffodils can be carried out at different times of the year, depending on this, it will have its own specifics:

Late summer and early fall planting are the two most preferred options and are recommended by most experienced gardeners. You can start planting these flowers from mid-August and during the first few weeks of September, since during this period there is most active growth root shoots.
Spring planting is also acceptable, but it is practiced in most cases if for some reason a good time was missed in the autumn period. AT without fail it should be preceded by keeping the planting material in sufficiently cold conditions for 2-3 weeks. To do this, you can put it in the refrigerator, but you must avoid placing it in freezer, since too low a temperature regime can destroy the tubers. Without compliance with these measures, it is virtually never possible to obtain a strong and resistant to adversity plant, which will adversely affect the quality of its flowering. The most optimal time for planting is in mid-April, when the last snow melts. It is not recommended to delay this process, as this will lead to the fact that the plants will lag behind in their development and flowering may be completely absent for two seasons.

When is the best time not to plant daffodils?

There are certain periods when it is not recommended to land, they are all listed below:

end of spring and summer period until early August. Planting at this time is a gross violation of technology, since rooting, growth of shoots and the transition to a dormant state in the bulbs are carried out according to the calendar, depending on weather conditions. If you plant them at the wrong time, then the plants will meet the winter and spring in an unprepared state due to a violation of the process of their development. This can lead to complete freezing of planting material in cold weather, a decrease in its immunity throughout the season, or poor flowering in subsequent years.
Planting from October to November is usually not practiced, but an exception can be made for the southern regions and only if there is an urgent need, since this measure is highly undesirable. This process is usually carried out if the gardener for some reason did not manage to meet the established schedule or the planting material got to him too late. At the same time, the bulbs actually do not have time to adapt and strengthen the roots, they immediately fall into rather extreme conditions for them. For this reason, it will be necessary to install a temporary insulating shelter on winter period. For planting, it is best to wait until one of the last short-term thaws occurs.
Planting in winter is not carried out even in the southern regions due to unprepared planting material and high risk its freezing before the onset of spring.

Where to plant

Some attention will need to be paid to the choice of the place where it is planned to plant daffodils. Some of the criteria influencing this process are discussed below:

Most varieties of daffodils are not demanding on the degree of lighting and tolerate partial shade much better than direct exposure to direct sunlight throughout the day. However, they should not be completely deprived of natural light either, so it is not recommended to plant these flowers near large structures, buildings, structures, too big bushes or trees. The exception to the rule is only certain light-loving varieties, which must be planted in open areas in order to obtain maximum number sunlight.
The soil also does not really matter, but it should not be too depleted., because at acute shortage the required amount of nutrients and a set of useful chemical elements daffodils stop blooming and lose their vitality.
There should be no drafts in the chosen place., besides, it must be reliably protected from cold winds.
It is better to avoid light sandy soils, since they do not actually retain heat after the onset of cold weather, which can lead to freezing of planting material. Other characteristics of the soil, for example, the level of acidity or its structure, are of no fundamental importance.
A place with drained loamy soil would be an ideal solution., since it is precisely such conditions that are most suitable for growing any bulb-type plants.

How to plant daffodils outdoors

The technology to be followed when planting daffodils in open ground is quite simple and usually does not cause any difficulties even for beginners in this matter.

A detailed description of this process is given below:

Initially, on the site of the future flower bed, the earth is carefully dug up and loosened, if necessary, a small amount of coarse sand or suitable fertilizer mixtures can be added to it.
Then planting holes for the bulbs are prepared. Their depth is determined individually in each case, usually it is equal to three times the size of the tuber itself. In most cases, the indicator is 10-13 cm for adult bulbs and 8-10 cm for children, but the quality of the soil also has a certain value: if planting in fairly light soil, then the depth can be further increased by another 5 cm.
A distance of about 15-20 cm should always be maintained between adjacent holes., but when growing miniature varieties, it can be reduced to 10 cm. If planting is carried out in order to get babies soon, then the distance increases to 25-30 cm, which will allow the tubers to develop and grow faster.
A small amount of sand is poured onto the bottom of the hole so that a thin layer is formed, which will act as a drainage, and also prevent direct contact of the planting material with the applied fertilizers.
Then the bulb itself is carefully placed inside: it is necessary to place it correctly so that the root processes are directed downwards.
The landing site is slightly moistened if there has not been precipitation for a long time, and then it is covered with a mixture of sand and garden soil. At this point, the planting procedure can be considered complete; in the future, you only need to take care of the daffodils.

Reproduction of daffodils

There are several ways to reproduce these colors, all of which will be discussed in more detail below:

Vegetative propagation is practiced for most garden flowers, it consists in the gradual separation of the children from the mother bulb. Every season, the tuber grows apexes, which gradually separate from it. This process takes an average of about 2-3 years, after the expiration of this period, the common scales die off. It falls off naturally, after which the gardener gets the opportunity to divide the nest of the narcissus, thus obtaining a child planting material. When separating it, one must not forget about the safety of the main tuber, therefore, the cut points are always treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, which has an antiseptic effect.
Propagation by seed is a much more complex and therefore less popular technique. In rare cases, summer residents or ordinary gardeners practice it, since this method is common mainly among breeders who need to save generic signs a certain variety or bring out a fundamentally new variety of flowers. In this case, the dried inflorescences of old plants are not cut off, since the processes of formation and ripening of seeds take place in them. There are various methods of sowing them, the most effective is the planting of ripe, but not dried material in early dates which ensures good germination. It must be borne in mind that in this case the first flowering period will not come very soon, usually it takes at least 4-5 years to wait.

What to do if daffodils sprouted

Situations when daffodils have time to germinate in the autumn are not uncommon, usually this happens for the following reasons:

Landing area, is characterized by too mild climatic conditions, or in a particular year it just turned out to be a rather warm autumn.
There was a delay in landing, and its implementation even before the beginning or middle of August.
The onset of a long and strong thaw in mid or late autumn.

Today, weather anomalies are observed very often, so the gardener must know how to react to the autumn germination of daffodils, because this requires him to take additional actions:

Initially, additional soil mulching is required, for this you can use peat, sawdust and dry fallen leaves. Mixing of the named components in equal proportions is allowed. The thickness of the layer can be from 2 to 5 cm, depending on the height of the sprout.
It may be necessary to create an additional insulating shelter. These measures, as well as mulching, should be carried out after a stable cold snap, when no more thaws are expected. At the same time, you need to have time to meet the deadline before the reduction temperature regime down to -5°C or lower, as this can cause the daffodils to freeze.
Sprouted tubers should not be used for forcing. The presence of sprouts indicates their rooting, therefore, during digging, there is a risk of damage to the root processes, in addition, the procedure for passing the necessary cooling will be considered incomplete.

Basic Mistakes

Below are the most common mistakes associated with planting and growing daffodils, familiarizing yourself with them will help prevent their repetition in the future:

Violation of the terms of not only planting, but also digging bulbs. What is dangerous too early or, conversely, late landing, has already been mentioned in the article. At the same time, digging up tubers at a time when the plant still has green foliage is another rather gross mistake, since at this time the process associated with the accumulation of nutrients in the bulbs is actively going on. It is allowed to dig them out of the ground only after all the leaves have turned yellow.
The bulbs must not at any stage long time be under direct sunlight. Daffodil tubers already have a tendency to dry out dangerously, and the described situation can lead to burns.
Planting bulbs in spring without pre-cooling. Keeping planting material in a refrigerator or other cool place is not only a recommendation, but a mandatory requirement, since if it is not followed, the plant will grow weak and will be susceptible to various diseases.

Despite the unpretentiousness of these flowers to the quality of the soil and environmental conditions, when grown on depleted soils, it is necessary to periodically carry out high-quality top dressing. Otherwise, daffodils can grow well and be quite strong, but bloom very sparsely.
It is recommended to transplant plants from time to time, as this is the prevention of flower diseases, as well as stimulation of flowering and improvement of the general condition of daffodils. For most varieties, the frequency of this procedure is about 4-5 years, but there are certain types that needs an annual transplant.
If the planting material was purchased too late, do not neglect additional insulation for the winter. It is better to cover the planting site with plant humus or fallen leaves, since the tubers did not have time to adapt to new conditions for them.

Planting daffodils in the fall in the ground requires adherence to strict technology, because, otherwise, the flowers will not take root, and the bulbs will die. If you follow simple rules, you can admire a beautiful flower bed already in the spring.

When to transplant daffodils - in spring or autumn

There are several favorable periods for transplanting this flower in a year. If the grower decided to choose summer for planting, then transplanting can only be done in August, even if the daffodil blooms.

The best option for the transplantation procedure is the beginning of autumn.

Experts do not advise transplanting in the spring, since transplanting in spring period- a tricky business. It is necessary to additionally apply fertilizer, prepare the soil since autumn. At the same time, there is a risk that the plant will not produce flowers in the year of transplantation.

Planting dates for daffodils in the fall

Planting daffodils in autumn should begin at a time when the soil temperature has dropped to 9 ° C and stays that way for 7-10 days. If the temperature drops below, then in the future the bulb will not have time to give roots, which will lead to its death.

Experts recommend transplanting narcissus before the third decade of September. When determining the timing, it is important to take into account the specific weather forecast and the region where the transfer takes place. In warm regions, planting daffodils in the fall can be done at a later date.

When to plant daffodils in the fall in the suburbs

Planting daffodils in the fall in the Moscow region should be carried out in the first half of September. It is necessary to focus on the temperature of the soil, which should last two weeks around 10 ° C. If the bulbs are planted later, the plant will not have time to prepare for winter. At best, a plant late planted in spring will not produce flowers, at worst, it will not survive the winter.

When to plant daffodils in autumn in Siberia

The Siberian region has a harsh climate and short summers. Therefore, as soon as the required soil temperature is established, it is necessary to start transplanting. Usually this is the first two weeks of September. It is very important to pay attention to the weather forecast. So that frosts do not come and do not deprive the flower of the opportunity to prepare for winter.

How to store daffodils before planting in the fall

After digging, the narcissus bulbs are dried and sorted. It is necessary to remove weak and diseased specimens that may die during transplantation or will not give the necessary lush flowering. Be sure to divide the planting material by size. The larger the bulb, the deeper the planting will be, and therefore it is recommended to plant bulbs of the same size nearby in order to choose the correct planting depth in the “nest”.

It is necessary to store the bulbs before planting so that they have access to air, otherwise the rotting process will begin.

The best option is wooden or plastic boxes with a mesh bottom so that there is constant air ventilation.

It is necessary to lay out planting material for storage in one layer in a dry room. Any humidity is detrimental to future flowers.

How to plant daffodils in autumn

Proper planting of daffodils in the fall involves preliminary preparation. It is necessary to prepare the soil, choose the right place, process the bulbs directly to prevent the reproduction of pests and the appearance of diseases.

How to prepare bulbs for planting

After sorting, the bulbs must necessarily undergo a disinfection procedure. This can be done using specialized preparations from the store, or you can simply dip the planting material into a solution of potassium permanganate. It is necessary to hold the bulbs in a pink solution for about half an hour. This will prevent the occurrence of rot and fungal diseases.

Site selection and soil preparation

The place for planting daffodil bulbs in autumn should not be too sunny. These flowers love partial shade, because they burn out from the direct rays of the sun. The landing site should be flat and without drafts.

The best option is if there are deciduous trees near the daffodils. In such places, the daffodil retains flowering longer.

The groundwater level at the planting site should not exceed 60 cm. Otherwise, the flowers may get sick or die quickly. For additional drainage, 1.5 cm of sand should be poured deep into the prepared hole. So groundwater will not be able to affect the condition of the bulb and flower.

As for the soil best option- it's loam. Sand is unsuitable for flowering and growth. Fertilizers are applied to the selected area in the middle or even early summer, depending on the expected planting date.

If on site clay soil, then sand should be added, which will improve its quality and make it suitable for the plant.

For 1 square meter 5–10 kg of manure or humus is needed. In addition to organics, be sure to lead into the soil mineral fertilizers. The main elements that bulbs need are phosphorus and potassium.

How deep to plant daffodils in autumn

The basic rule to use when calculating the depth is that the hole should be three times as deep as the length of the bulb. On average, it is 15–17 cm. If the material is planted too deep, then flowering can be very late.

When planted on the surface, the bulbs can freeze in winter or suffer from spring temperature changes during early flowering.

It is necessary to plant the bulbs with the roots down and observe the distance. Between large specimens 15–20 cm, between small ones - 7–10 cm.

Do I need to cut daffodils in the fall

Not all flower growers know whether it is necessary to cut the leaves after flowering and how to do it. Usually, after 6 weeks after flowering, in many plants the ground part disappears on its own. If this does not happen, then the bulb needs help. But this should be done no earlier than 6 months after the flower has faded.

Important! You only need to cut brown leaves, since they no longer nourish the bulb and do not conduct the necessary substances to it.

In order for the flower to get rid of the leaves itself, experts recommend feeding it before flowering ends.

How to transplant daffodils in autumn to another place

To transplant daffodils in the fall to another place, you need to choose a flat, wind-proof area with good drainage.

Potassium salt is recommended to be added 2–2.5 weeks before transplanting to the selected area. Thus, the grower will ensure the supply of the necessary minerals for the flower.

Important! In one place, daffodils bloom well and do not get sick for more than 3 years, and then a mandatory transplant is required.

After transplantation, you need to provide proper care so that the plants survive the winter well and have time to take root in a new place before flowering begins.

Planting and caring for daffodils in the fall will help you get the most beautiful and fragrant flowers in large numbers.

Often, when choosing a place where daffodils are planted, they choose a flower bed next to other flowers. This is useful as the bulbs are successful in repelling most pests and all rodents. The rest of the flowers do not have to be processed.

Care after landing

After planting, you no longer need to make any fertilizer. If you properly prepare the soil, then all the nutrients will be enough for the bulbs until April and even May.

After planting, soil moisture is the most important. In order for the bulbs to take root, they need to be watered. Dry, warm autumn days are perfect for this. But waterlogging is also fatal for daffodils, and therefore it is imperative to cover them if the autumn turned out to be rainy. So it will be possible to avoid waterlogging, which can lead to the death of these plants.

If a crust forms on the soil, then it should be loosened so that air can enter the roots of the plant.

If planting is carried out in a cold region, then experts recommend using mulching to create warm conditions and prevent freezing of the bulbs. Straw, peat, sawdust or a mixture of these components is used as mulch. The thickness should be calculated depending on the climate of the region. Most often, 10-15 cm is enough.

It is worth noting that daffodils are one of the least capricious among all flowers, and therefore it is easy and convenient to care for and grow them. There are tips on the Internet for planting daffodils in the fall and videos to help beginner gardeners.

Conclusion

To make it easy to plant daffodils in the ground in autumn, you will need to prepare the planting material well, as well as the place where this beauty will bloom in the spring. First of all, choose the right place and remember that after 3-4 years they need to be transplanted again. Only in the case of correctly chosen terms of transplantation and care after disembarkation, it is possible to provide an excellent view of the site in the spring. It is not recommended to transplant daffodils in the spring, as they will not have time to prepare for flowering. And in autumn correct timing the flower will take root perfectly and will have time to get stronger before spring.

How to plant daffodils outdoors

Choosing a place for planting daffodils and proper preparation soils are important factors influencing the growth and development of plants.

Proper preparation of a place for planting a daffodil

For this type of bulbous, a sufficiently lit place without drafts is suitable. Daffodils do well in partial shade, but under tall trees or next to the buildings they should not be planted. An area that is too lit, where the sun burns from morning to evening, will not suit them either. The only exceptions will be individual light-loving varieties. It is better to choose a place in the country in a light shade so that they bloom longer and the color is richer.

Daffodils will survive a short flood melt waters, but they will not be able to live permanently in such soil, because the bulbs will simply rot. To prepare a flower bed or garden bed, you need to remove 30-40 cm of soil and pour drainage into the resulting hole. Perfect for this:

pebbles;
expanded clay;
crushed stone;
vermiculite.

From above, 8-10 cm of sand is poured onto the drainage, then - nutrient soil. The flower bed should have water drainage in the form of ditches and be above ground level. It is advisable to overlay it with a border of natural stone or artificial materials.

What kind of soil is needed for planting

If on personal plot sandy soil predominates, it is made heavier by mixing with clay. Sour needs liming. To do this, 300 g of slaked lime is added per 1 m² a year before planting.

The most fertile soil for daffodils is loamy, although they can easily be grown in black soil and peat. The main thing at the same time is that the acidity indicators are close to neutral (pH 6.5-7).

If about 400 g of lime is applied per 1 m², the acidity of the soil will increase by 1 pH unit.

The first digging of the land for daffodils is carried out in advance, in July. At the same time, about 15 kg of humus per 1 m² are introduced. The second time the bed is dug up 2-3 weeks before planting and fertilized with phosphorus and potassium (50 g of superphosphate and 30 g of potassium chloride with sylvinite (potassium salt) per 1 m²).

Where are the best places in the flowerbed

Landscape designers often decorate with daffodils and tulips. alpine slides, alleys, curbs. It is also practiced to plant bulbs in a perennial flower bed next to peonies, pansies and early flowering shrubs (hazel and wolfberry).

Planting daffodils

Planting and caring for daffodils include a number of mandatory rules, neglecting which, one should not hope for a positive result. In order for the flower to grow healthy and strong, you need to observe the planting dates, know the depth and distance between plants, and also choose high-quality bulbs.

How to choose healthy daffodil bulbs for planting

Planting and caring for daffodils will not cause difficulties if you initially choose good planting material. Bulbs should be dense, with a dry neck and bottom. The scales are brown or golden, with no signs of decay, dark spots or plaque.

In addition, you need to know how to process before planting to prevent fusarium and gray rot. The simplest and most effective is a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

How deep to plant

Many people wonder how deep to lay the bulbs so that they do not freeze and germinate in the spring without much difficulty. This parameter directly depends on their size and is equal to three diameters, on average - 12-15 cm. If the soil is loose and light - plant deeper, if heavy clay - closer to the surface.

In Latvia, gardeners put small unsalted sprat or capelin under the bulbs, this is an excellent source of potassium and phosphorus.

Forcing daffodil bulbs - a guarantee of flowering

For distillation, taceto-shaped daffodils with large and heavy bulbs are best suited. They are soaked in warm water with a temperature of 40-45 ° C for 4 hours. Then they are planted in prepared containers or wooden boxes so that 1-2 cm remains above the surface. The soil between the bulbs is covered with sand and watered well. Containers are sent to a cool place (10-12 °C) for 3 months.

With the advent of sprouts 10-15 cm long, they are transferred to heat and cared for like others. indoor plants. Buds will appear 2-3 weeks after forcing.

To get flowers on the eve of March 8, you need to start forcing in mid-October.

When to plant a daffodil

Planting daffodils in open ground is carried out mainly in the fall, so that the bulbs are well rooted and formed flower buds. A number of flowers have their own special life cycle, when root system actively develops just after the end of the warm season. Narcissists are a prime example of this. The ideal time for this would be mid-August - early September, adjusted for climatic conditions region. In the spring, planting daffodils is possible only if the deadlines for autumn planting were missed for a number of reasons. It is best to do this immediately after the snow melts, around mid-April. Planting should not be delayed, as late-planted plants will develop more slowly and will have to wait a year or two for flowering.

Landing scheme, or Starting with a plan

In most cases, daffodils are not planted en masse, because after flowering such a flower bed will lose its decorative appearance due to yellowed drooping foliage. Classic option layouts are small islands of 5-7 plants, surrounded by perennials (hosts, geraniums, cuff). Early varieties daffodils look interesting in the company of chionodoxes, crocuses, snowdrops, later - with primrose, bergenia, tenacity.

The landing pattern can be represented in three ways:

Bulbs are planted in rows at a distance of 15 cm from each other, row spacing - 20-25 cm.
Holes are dug in a checkerboard pattern 15 x 15 cm, this method is called square-nested.
Make a wide hole and lay several bulbs there at once.

Narcissus: care and cultivation

Narcissus is an unpretentious and grateful flower. Provide him with minimal care, and he will delight in flowering every year. In one place, daffodils grow beautifully for 5-6 years.

Spring top dressing - vitamin cocktail for a flower

In the spring, daffodils feed ammonium nitrate. This nitrogen fertilizer has a beneficial effect on all processes in the life of a plant, especially on the growth of green mass. Before flowering, phosphorus and potassium are added - this contributes to the formation of buds and the active reproduction of bulbs.

The best varieties for outdoor cultivation

There are more than 25 thousand varieties of daffodils, which form several main groups:

tubular;
terry;
triandrous;
small-crowned;
large-crowned;
cut-crown;
bell-shaped;
jonquill daffodils;
cyclamenoid;
many-flowered;
poetic;
wild.

For open ground, different varieties have been bred, differing both in flower shape and size. The best are "Maximus", "King Alfred", "Birshiba", "Kantara", "Spring Glory", "Fortune", "Ives", "Damson", "Killigrew", "Great Worley", "Mary Copland", "sunrise".

Many of them are suitable for early forcing and can be grown well in a pot. When choosing planting material, you need to carefully read the description of the variety.

What to plant nearby, or Good neighbors

When planning a flower bed, it is necessary to take into account not only the aesthetic aspect, but also the possible symbiosis of plants. So, next to tulips and daffodils in a flower bed, it is useful to sow crops that repel flies, such as:

calendula;
marigold;
nasturtium;
white mustard.

Such a neighborhood will not only look interesting, but also protect the flowers from the narcissus hoverfly.

When to plant overgrown daffodils

Bulbs of daffodils begin to form daughter, smaller bulbs for 3-4 years. It makes sense to pinch them off the mother plant and plant them separately for growing, the planting depth is slightly less than usual.

Narcissus can also be propagated by dividing the bulb itself. For these purposes, choose the strongest, well-dried. Cut with a sharp blade into several segments with a part of the bottom, after removing the top. Further, the fragments of the bulb are disinfected in a weak solution of potassium permanganate and placed in peat for 3-4 months. The temperature of the substrate should be in the range of 17-20 °C. During storage, the buds will wake up and give new shoots. After that, they are transplanted into small containers, for example, in plastic bottles. The soil is made up of peat and river sand (3: 1), the containers are placed in the basement until the spring landing in a permanent place.

Proper watering and loosening

Watering daffodils is necessary as the soil dries out, a lack of moisture in the soil should not be allowed. To shed the earth to the desired depth, you will need 2-3 buckets per 1 m².

Like other crops, daffodils should not be watered in the middle of the day, best time for this will be 18-19 pm. Water should be settled and warm.

Daffodils show particular sensitivity to water deficiency after they have faded. The foliage does not fade for another 30-40 days, and at this moment vital substances accumulate in it, which are subsequently stored in the scales of the bulb.

Watering is stopped when the ground part of the plant wilts. in the Moscow region and middle lane In Russia this is the beginning of July, in Siberia and the Urals - a little later. Weeding and loosening is an important part in caring for this beautiful flower. It is desirable to loosen the soil after each watering, prolonged rain or fertilization, the depth is 3-5 cm.

Fertilizer daffodils

In areas that are not very fertile, daffodils are fed several times a season. The first time fertilizers are applied during the period of mass shoots, the second - at the beginning of budding, the third - at the height of flowering. For this, nitroammofoska is used at the rate of 70 g per 1 m². After flowering, the soil is fertilized with superphosphate (40 g / 1 m²) and potassium sulfate (20 g / 1 m²). On fertile soils, the dose is reduced by 2-3 times, guided by a good rule: "It is better to underfeed than overfeed." Fresh manure can be applied at least a year before planting the bulbs, otherwise the adventitious roots can be burned.

Propagation by seeds: how to breed a new variety

It makes sense to grow daffodils from seeds only for the sake of breeding a new variety. Seedlings bloom for 4-5 years, so this method is rarely used among ordinary flower growers. Another thing is breeders who plant daffodils in vast areas in the hope that at least one will be interesting for further work and fixing the variety.

Freshly harvested, well-ripened seeds are suitable for sowing. They are placed in earth mixture a few centimeters deep and kept at a moderate temperature until the onions grow. After that, the seedlings can be transferred to open ground. Seedlings from seeds of hybrids do not inherit the characteristics of the mother plant.

Pruning and care after flowering

When the flower has withered, the peduncle must be cut off if it is not to be used for seed maturation. The entire ground part is removed and burned only after complete withering. After flowering, watering is gradually reduced, the bush is fed complex fertilizer. In autumn, the bed is mulched to prevent freezing of the soil.

Major diseases and pests

Growing daffodils in the open field can be complicated by the development of a disease in plants. Often this is the result of improper agricultural practices. Most often, daffodils affect diseases such as:

fusarium;
ring spot;
gray rot (botritiosis);
sclerocial rot;
penicillosis rot;
bacterial scab.

All bulbs are susceptible to viral diseases that can penetrate the soil, through insects (aphids, thrips) or when plants are treated with an infected tool. Prevention is the timely culling and destruction of infected bushes.

The most common pests of daffodils are:

click beetles;
onion hoverfly;
onion root mite;
cabbage scoop;
common bear;
nematode;
slugs.

What to do to make daffodils bloom annually

By following a few simple rules, you can achieve an annual abundant and long flowering of daffodils:

Pruning of the ground part is done only after the leaves have completely withered (they should turn yellow and lose elasticity).
No need to dig up bulbs every year, let the plants stay in one place for 3-4 years.
When grown on poor soils, daffodils need to be fed regularly. Without this, plants may look healthy and strong, but will not bloom.

Caring without fanaticism - mistakes in caring for daffodils

Many novice flower growers violate the timing of planting bulbs, neglecting the features of the life cycle of the narcissus. Untimely planting threatens with a lack of flowering and even the death of the plant. The same applies to fertilization. An excess of nitrogen in the soil as a result of inept feeding with urea or ammonium nitrate promises a rapid growth of green mass and poor flowering. Do not neglect the storage of planting material in the refrigerator. Planting daffodils and care in the open field is a simple matter, the main thing is to choose the right time for pruning and transplanting, do not forget to water, fertilize and loosen the soil. In response, daffodils will please with a long lush bloom and give thin delicate fragrance. After all, it is not without reason that the name Narcissus Poeticus, translated from Greek, means "intoxicating and stunning."

In this article we will talk about how to plant daffodils before winter, how to properly plant in the open field, choose the right place for planting, and how to properly care for an adult plant.

When to plant?

Planting dates for this type of flower may vary for different regions our country. Experts recommend planting daffodils at a time when the average daily temperature of about + 8-10 ° C is established in the soil, and will last 10-14 days in this mode. In the northern and central strip of Russia, such a period begins in mid-late September, but in the southern regions it can last until the end of October or the beginning of November. The whole point is that these terms must be observed, otherwise in the spring daffodils may not bloom at all.

If you plant flower bulbs too early, they can quickly grow and freeze due to autumn and winter frosts. A bulb planted in time should have time to take root before the first frost, but the aerial part of the flower should not begin to grow until the first frost.

In addition, if planted when the soil temperature is higher than indicated, and the humidity exceeds the norm by 1.5-2 times, then the root formations of the flower may die. late boarding will cause daffodils to produce small flowers and low peduncles in spring. But if you are still late with the planting time, then cover the planted bulbs well so that they do not freeze during the first winter frosts.

Did you know? In ancient Rome, daffodils yellow flowers met the warriors who won the war.

Some of these colors can easily survive severe frosts without shelter. But if possible, all varieties of daffodils should be insulated for the winter. Spruce branches, dry leaves, etc. can be used as shelter. plastic film and its derivatives, it is not recommended to cover flowers, as you will limit air access to the plant. If desired, the bulbs can be covered with non-woven material for.

Landing features

To plant daffodils in the fall, you need to follow a certain technology: plant bulbs in pre-prepared soil, dig holes of a certain size and fertilize the flower with special substances. We will talk about all this below.

Location selection

Choosing the right landing site is an important factor. Daffodils (especially varieties with orange and pink crowns) love semi-shady places, in such conditions the flowers will fade less from the sun's rays. In addition, for planting the bulbs, it is necessary to choose flat, draft-protected places.
Gardeners note that in places where constant gusty winds do not blow, daffodils bloom a little longer. These flowers will do well among several, but plant them in the garden with large quantity green plants and shrubs are not recommended. Moreover, in the shade, daffodils will not be able to grow normally, as a result of which their aroma will become less saturated, and the flowers themselves will decrease in size.

Another important factor when choosing a location is the level of groundwater. Choose the place where the level groundwater no higher than 60 cm. Areas that are constantly flooded when snow melts or during heavy and prolonged rains are not suitable for planting bulbs. Under such conditions, the root system of daffodils will rot very soon due to the presence of a fungus in the soil that loves high humidity.

The most suitable type for planting daffodils is a loamy type of soil. It should vary within 6-7.5 Pn. Sandy soils will become unsuitable for normal plant growth and flowering. At first, daffodils will produce large flowers with a pleasant aroma due to previously accumulated macro- and microelements.

AT further plant maybe even the bulb will decrease in size, and in some cases this type of soil can even lead to the death of the flower. But if the soil in your garden is adapted to normal growth different colors, then there should be no problems.
Before planting, the place must be removed: take out all small and large stones, debris, roots of bushes and trees, etc. If your site has heavy clay soil, then you need to add a little sand (20 kg / m²) to it. If the soil is purely sandy, then clay with peat or humus is added to it in the same proportions.

Any type of fertilizer should be applied 2-3 months before the direct planting of the bulb, and fresh manure should be applied even a year before planting. It is best to fertilize the planting site in the beginning to the middle (depending on which climate zone where you are staying and when you will be landing). To bring in rotted or humus at the rate of 15-20 kg per square meter of area.

Important! It is strictly forbidden to introduce fresh manure immediately before planting. It contains some substances that can cause burns to a young bulb.

Daffodils, like many other types of flowers, need to be fed. In the first year, their plant will not be used, since it has already accumulated required amount these substances. If you are going to plant narcissus bulbs in the fall, then you can fertilize the soil around them with macro- and microelements in 4-6 months, when the plant will give the first flowers. After the stage, the bulbs will need to be replenished with minerals.

If possible, you need to do a soil analysis in a specialized laboratory. Otherwise, you simply will not know what minerals and how much your flowers need. The main indicators in the analysis are the presence of potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus in the soil (substances without which daffodils cannot produce large and fragrant flowers). by the most important elements that daffodils especially need are phosphorus and potassium.
The first is responsible for the normal development of the bulb and flowering processes (flower size and aroma). Potassium helps the flower synthesize normal amounts of starch and sucrose. You need to be careful with nitrogen: in normal dosages, it contributes to the development of plant tissues, as a result of which the flower becomes large in size, but if too much nitrogen is applied, it can destroy the plant.

Soil analysis will give clear facts about the presence of a particular element in the soil, and the data obtained can be used as a starting point when fertilizing. The norms can be considered: (30 mg / m²), (60 mg / m²), which is applied during planting (10-15 g / m²). If you find an excess of certain substances in your soil, then the rate of a certain fertilizer should be reduced, if there is a shortage or absence at all, then the rate should be doubled or tripled. In any case, ask the laboratory assistant who will analyze your soil for advice.
If you don’t have the opportunity to analyze the soil, then you can do the following trick: remove 30-40 cm of the topsoil and replace it with the purchased mixture, in which all minerals are already present in optimal quantities.

Technology for planting daffodils in the fall

Before planting, daffodil bulbs need to be peeled from the old peel (remove only the top layer, but do not peel everything to white scales). Bulbs can be single and group, you need to separate only those that are loosely pressed against each other. Small group bulbs are best planted together, so you increase the chance of a flower surviving in winter. After all, if you separate them, then you will violate the integrity and break the white storage scales, without which the flower will soon die.

Did you know? Images of flowering daffodils can be found on the walls of ancient Pompeii.

When planting, you must follow this rule: the depth of the hole should be three times the height of the bulb. For large bulbs, you need to make holes 15-25 cm deep, for small and group bulbs, you should dig holes a little wider, but at the same time smaller (about 10-15 cm deep). Gardeners often use one trick that allows you to regulate the processes of flowering and reproduction of bulbs.
If a flower is planted a little deeper than the indicated norms, then it will bloom late and will multiply more slowly. If you make a surface landing (the depth of the pits is 7-12 cm), then the bulbs will multiply rapidly and bloom early. The second method of planting daffodils is best done in the southern regions of our country, where there are no severe winter frosts. If you live in more northern regions, but want to see early flowering daffodils, then you need to take care of the quality insulation of the bulbs for the winter.

Before planting, you need to decide for what purpose you are going to grow daffodils. If you need the aroma of daffodil flowers every spring and nothing more, then you can plant large bulbs in medium holes, do this in the fall (September-October).
If your goal is to grow flowers for the purpose of further selling bulbs, then select quality material, but at the same time, the bulbs should be small and grouped, since in this case the reproduction process will occur much faster.

During planting, you need to place the bulbs bottom down. If they are planted the other way around, they will still germinate, but the peduncles will be curved. Moreover, the plant will spend a lot of energy to break through the soil, and as a result, the flowers will be smaller in size, and their number will decrease by 1.5-2 times. When planting, it is necessary to observe a certain distance between the bulbs: between large material - 15-20 cm, between small group - 7-11 cm.
A distinctive feature of daffodils is that their bulbs and leaves contain poisonous substances, so small