How to grow a lilac from a twig? Features of the procedure. Reproduction of varietal lilac Is it possible to plant lilac cuttings

Varietal lilac is very much appreciated by gardeners, landscape designers and collectors. By purchasing a seedling, the buyer hopes for the full compliance of the specimen with varietal characteristics.

reproduction

Not all methods transmit the genetic code in the same way. Therefore, for the reproduction of varietal bushes, a limited number of them are used.

Can be propagated:

vaccination;
root growth;
layering;
green (not lignified) cuttings;
merisystem way.

Cannot reproduce:

seeds.

Comparison of breeding methods for varietal lilacs

For each, there are positives and negatives.

Own-rooted lilac is healthier - it has high winter hardiness, large growth, shoots inherit signs. A significant drawback is that the flowering time comes three or even four years later than the grafted one.

The grafted syringa blooms earlier. It can be formed from clearstem tree. Reception is common in modern landscape design. Alas, she lives much less than her own root. More stable is considered to be grafting on a wild one. With proper care, a shrub with other rootstocks can become a long-liver.

Lilac, grown merisystemically, is also rooted. It conveys the characteristics of the variety better, suffers less from viral and other diseases, and more easily tolerates complex climatic conditions. A seedling obtained by the merisystem method gives a small increase in the first years. Blooms no earlier than the fifth year.

Methodology

The easiest way to plant root shoots. It is a little more difficult and longer to make layering. The most popular way is green cuttings, which is not suitable for all varieties. The grafting process is difficult for the gardener and requires good skill and experience. A special tool must also be available. It is impossible to propagate lilac merisystemically outside the laboratory conditions.

Now more about how to propagate lilacs.

Grafting

All varieties are propagated by grafting. The rootstock for grafting are wild seedlings, privet, Hungarian lilac.

In grafted plants, the shoots in the near-trunk circle and near the root neck are unvarnished, wild, so it is completely removed with pruners - “on the ring”.

For scion, take annual twigs of syringa. They are prepared in advance and stored until grafting in a damp, cold and dark place.

There are such ways:

budding;
copulation;
grafting into the side cut;
split grafting;
for the bark.

Root growth

The separation of the root shoots is best done in the fall. The desired specimen is cut off from the main root with the maximum preservation of its own fibrous root system. In the future, planting and caring for the separated plant is carried out as for ordinary seedlings.

layering

For propagation of varieties by layering, own-rooted uterine bushes are mainly used. The process takes several years.

1-2 year. To prepare for winter in the first and second year, the shrub intended for propagation by layering is cut to the very root collar.

3 years old By autumn, many young shoots will appear on the bush.

4 year. In the spring, the grown annual shoots are bent to the ground, fixed with hooks driven into the ground and sprinkled with soil. Throughout the season, you need to ensure that the soil near the layers is sufficiently moist. In the autumn of the fourth year, rooted layers are separated from the branches of the mother bush.

Less commonly, grafted lilacs are transferred to their own roots by layering if the vaccine is not very high above the ground. The plant is planted obliquely. In the spring, shoots that are higher than the graft are attracted to the ground. Use special wire and pins. The plant is spudded throughout the growing season and watered. In autumn, roots will appear above the constriction, and the layers can be cut off from the bush.

With this method, you can get the largest number seedlings from a single shrub in a short time.

Propagation of lilac cuttings in spring

This method can propagate some varieties in one season. The process includes the following steps:

material selection and preparation vegetative propagation;
cutting green cuttings;
preplant processing of shoots;
soil preparation;
planting the prepared material;
care during the rooting period;
transplanting rooted in open ground for growing.

Let's take a closer look at the main points.

How to choose shoots for cuttings and prepare for cutting

The older the bush-mother liquor, the worse the rooting occurs. The plant should be at least 4-5 years old, but not older than 10-15.

Large green shoots, they are also called fat, practically do not take root. Vertical strong - also not very suitable. Best Ability to the formation of roots in medium-sized green branches growing sideways.

To increase the rooting of cuttings, gardeners use various tricks. In particular, "etiolation" is used. 3 weeks before grafting, dark-colored insulating tape is wrapped around young shoots that are not very tight from below under the internode. In essence, etiolation is the isolation of part of the branch from light. After some time, the areas of the bark under the insulation will become whitish, this is where the cut should be made, and after about 10 weeks, roots will develop in this place.

Pruning time is evening, morning is possible if the day promises to be cloudy. Then the branch will spend less moisture on its most difficult first day.

Rules for cutting green cuttings

Cuttings are carried out during the flowering period or immediately after it. Selected shoots are cut with a clean, sharp knife. The top of the shoot is cut off, two or three internodes are counted, and the lower part is cut off. Important! The bottom cut should be oblique and pass immediately under the third knot, but without touching it.

On the shoots, all leaves are cut to half and packed in a film in thin layers until planting. You don't need to put it in water.

Pre-planting treatment

Twigs take root very hard. Therefore, before planting, they must be treated with root formation stimulants (indolylbutyric acid, heteroauxin, zircon). The preparations are diluted with water or alcohol according to the instructions. If alcohol dilution was used, the shoots are dipped into the solution for 5 seconds and planted in the ground; if water dilution is used, they are kept up to 18 hours, dipped to a depth of 1 cm.

Soil preparation

Most often rooted in sand or a mixture of sand and perlite. But in order to achieve the highest percentage of rooting, it is better to use the following composition: part of large perlite, part of high-moor peat, two parts of low-lying peat.

Drainage layer of washed sand and expanded clay - 15 cm, then 20 leaf humus or rotted manure, and on top from five to eight centimeters of rooting mixture.

Landing

The finished soil is compacted and watered. The cuttings are deepened, immersing the first internode into the ground completely. It is under it that the system of fibrous roots will develop. Between the rows we leave a distance of 10 cm, and between the shoots - 5 cm. Water again.

The temperature should not be very high. If it is hot outside, the greenhouse is shaded and ventilated.

The most important condition for good survival is high humidity, perfect - 100%. For rooting in industrial scale in greenhouses, a special fogging machine is installed.

The first roots may appear no earlier than in a month and a half.

Remember to periodically remove fallen or spoiled leaves to prevent fungal infections.

You can talk about the percentage of rooting only in the fall. Then they can be seated for growing in the garden-school. Do not forget to cover the resulting seedlings for the winter to prevent the still tender shoots from freezing. If in doubt, it is better to transplant rooted cuttings next spring, as usual, before the start of sap flow.

Merisystem method

Modern science allows you to get plants by growing tissues in the laboratory - this is a "merisystem" method of reproduction.
The technique consists in growing cells of a varietal shoot on a nutrient medium. Received by this vegetatively plants acquire all parental characteristics.

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Many people like flowers, delicate and very fragrant. These shrubs, reminiscent of spring, are often found in our parks and gardens. Let's talk about lilac propagation methods.

Lilac - care and reproduction

Most often, lilacs are propagated by layering, cuttings and grafting, and seeds are used to breed new varieties. If you want to plant lilac bushes on your site, use the vegetative method. These plants grow well, forming a shoot - you can simply plant it in the right place. But if you want to reproduce young plant which you liked beautiful flowering, a pretty crown shape or a pleasant aroma, try cuttings.

So, ideally, lilacs should be propagated by cuttings in the spring, immediately after flowering. It is the green cuttings, which are not yet lignified, that should be rooted (even semi-lignified twigs will no longer be able to take root, and propagation of lilacs by lignified cuttings is generally impossible). It should be noted that this process is not as fast as we would like, and to get a full-fledged lilac bush from a cutting, they use a shkolka - a special bed for growing.

As cuttings, we use green twigs of medium thickness, cut from the middle of the crown of a young bush. Each branch should have 2-3 knots with relatively short internodes. By the way, it is best to cut the cuttings in the early morning. Do not confuse thin green rooting twigs with shoots that grow from thick boughs. These are the so-called tops, which are almost impossible to root.

After cutting, each branch should be processed in a certain way. To do this, remove the leaves from the lower node and make an oblique cut in this place with a very sharp knife or a special grafting pruner. Be careful: you can not cut at the internode. The leaf plates remaining on the branch should be shortened by half, and the top of the shoot should be completely removed by making a straight cut.

The successful vegetative propagation of lilacs is facilitated by the Epin-extra solution, in which the cuttings must be placed after processing. After 16-18 hours, they must be removed from the stimulator and rinsed with clean water.

Then the cuttings should be planted in soil consisting of sand mixed with peat or. Fill the place where you will plant the lilac (cutting plant) with this mixture and spill it with a solution of any fungicide that will protect young plants from infection by the fungus. Ideally, cuttings should be planted in a greenhouse, but you can get by with open ground by planting plants in partial shade and covering them with cut 5-liter bottles.

The cuttings are planted in the ground, completely deepening the lower node. Before this, you can dip each branch with the lower end into Kornevin powder, which contributes to successful rooting. After planting, spray the lilac cuttings with a spray bottle, and shade the plants well. They should provide as high humidity as possible by spraying several times a day. And once a week, spray a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate on the leaves.

The roots on the plants will appear 50-60 days after you started the process of propagating lilacs with green cuttings. When this happens, start airing the cuttings in the evenings, and after a while remove the film or bottles from it.

Growing cuttings occurs either in the cuttings or on the shkolka, depending on the time of year. So, if your lilac managed to take root before the end of summer, it can be planted in a bright place with fertile soil, where you need to add humus, compost or wood ash.

In preparation for winter, cover young seedlings with a dry shelter - for example, spruce branches. The first few years, lilacs need to be regularly loosened, weeded and fed with fertilizers. The plant, propagated by cuttings, blooms for 4 or 5 years.

In late spring and summer, lilacs can be easily propagated at home using rooted green cuttings. In this article, we will describe in detail and show how to do it correctly.

Lilac ornamental varieties are propagated by shoots, layering, grafting and cuttings. To plant a lilac, you need to have some skills, and it is convenient to propagate a bush that is already growing in the country with shoots and layering. If you want to bring a plant from another place, it is best to resort to cuttings. Using this method, you can root lilacs even from a bouquet. Provided that it was cut no later than one day ago.

In addition, keep in mind that lilac is a difficult-to-root plant. Therefore, for successful reproduction, it is important to observe certain terms:

Do not miss the right time for harvesting cuttings. Green twigs of lilac are cut during flowering or immediately after it, since lignified cuttings do not take root. And the best time to do it is early in the morning.
Use suitable cuttings. They need to be cut from the middle of the crown of young bushes (up to 6 years old) and from the middle part of the shoot. At the same time, there must be 2-3 buds on the handle (10-15 cm long). Shoots coming from thick branches (tops) are unsuitable.
Withstand temperature and humidity. The optimum temperature for rooting cuttings is 22-25°C, and humidity is 85-95%.

Preparation of green cuttings

1. Using a sharp pruner, remove the leaves from the lower node of the handle.

2. As close as possible to this node, without leaving a hemp, make an oblique cut. Please note: cuttings with cuts in the internodes do not take root.

Be very careful when making a cut on the handle: in lilacs, the roots grow only in the area of the lower node. And an incorrectly made cut will lead to the fact that the plants will not take root.

3. Shorten all the leaves remaining on the handle by half.

4. Above the top node, stepping back 1 cm, cut off the top of the shoot. In this case, the cut must be even.

5. Place the prepared cuttings in a solution with a root stimulator.

The water temperature should be between 18-20°C. For this, you can use any drug, but, as our experiment showed, it is more effective to use Epin-Extra. Keep the cuttings in the stimulant solution for 14-17 hours.

1. Prepare the soil. It is best to root the cuttings in a mixture of peat (2 parts) and coarse-grained perlite (1 part). Sand is undesirable.

2. Pour a small layer of drainage into the stalk (or any other container with a plastic lid), and on top of it - the prepared soil mixture with a layer of 10 cm.

Then pour a layer (3 cm) of coarse sand - it is advisable to use river sand.

3. Abundantly moisten the soil. To avoid infection with fungal diseases, you can spill the earth with a fungicide solution (Fundazol).

4. In wet sand, use a thin stick to make a small hole and place the cutting in it to a depth of 1 cm. Make sure that the cut of the cutting is in the sand, but does not touch the soil mixture. Plant the remaining cuttings so that they do not cling to each other with leaves.

5. Spray cuttings from a spray bottle with water at room temperature.

6. Cover the container with a transparent plastic lid (you can use a cut plastic bottle) or a film and place in partial shade.

Lilac cuttings care

To maintain moisture, spray the cuttings daily with water. The sand must not dry out. To prevent mold from forming on the leaves, spray them once a week with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate.

As necessary, blot the resulting condensate, and after the formation of roots, the cuttings begin to ventilate.

Roots usually appear in 30-60 days. Until autumn, grow the cuttings in the cuttings (if they have taken root by this time), and in September plant them in a growing bed located in a well-lit place with light, fertile soil of neutral acidity, then water. In this case, the distance between the cuttings should be about 30 cm.

If in autumn the leaves on the cuttings darkened - do not worry. It is important that the buds and roots do not die out.

For the winter, cover the cuttings with spunbond or spruce branches. In the spring, with the onset of warm weather, remove the shelter. After 1-2 years, the lilac seedling can be transplanted to permanent place. And after 2-3 years the plant will bloom.

As you can see, it is not difficult to grow lilacs from green cuttings. But at home, they tend to take root only in 50-70% of cases. Therefore, prepare a few branches of lilac.

It belongs to hard-to-root plants, therefore, for successful reproduction, a number of conditions must be met:

It is very important to observe the deadlines for harvesting cuttings. Semi-lignified cuttings do not root. Most right time- the moment of flowering or immediately after it, when young overgrowing branches finish their growth.
It is desirable to cut the cuttings in the early morning from young bushes from the middle of the crown, using twigs of medium thickness (in extreme cases, thin ones) from the middle part of the shoot. It is best to have 2-3 nodes on it and fairly short internodes.

Shoots coming from thick branches - tops, or fat shoots are not suitable for harvesting lilac cuttings. In lilac tops, as a rule, do not take root.

Preparation of cuttings

First, completely remove the leaves from the bottom node.

Make an oblique cut as close as possible to the bottom node from which the leaves have been removed. Use a well-sharpened or special secateurs for this, in order to injure the tissue at the cut site as little as possible. Cuttings cut exactly at the internodes, as well as from fatty shoots (tops), do not take root.

Cut the remaining leaf blades in half.

Remove the top of the shoot by making a straight cut over the top node.

Immediately after cutting the cuttings, place them in the stimulant solution Epin-extra at 16-18 hours. Immediately before planting, they will need to be washed with clean water.

Rooting lilac cuttings in a greenhouse

It is best to plant cuttings in a greenhouse or located in partial shade. In extreme cases, you can do without a greenhouse by covering the cuttings with trimmed five-liter ones from under drinking water. Prepare the soil for planting. To do this, mix with sand in a ratio of 1: 1. Not bad if you replace part of the sand with perlite. It retains moisture better and at the same time breathes, preventing the cuttings from rotting. Fill the stalk with this mixture with a layer of 15-20 cm. From above, cover it with a layer of sand (preferably river sand) 5 cm thick. Pour the prepared place well with a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Vitaros, Maxim). This will protect the cuttings from damage by fungal diseases.

Lilac cuttings take root difficult, so the use of root stimulants is necessary. Dip the cutting with the wet end into the stimulator Kornevin.

Make a small indentation in the damp sand and place the stalk there, completely deepening the lower knot. Make sure that the root stimulator powder does not crumble from it. Seal. The lower end of the handle should be completely in the sand and not touch the ground. The distance between the cuttings is such that the leaves lightly touch each other.

Spray the cuttings with a spray bottle with water. You can add the solution remaining from soaking the cuttings to the water. Epina-extra.

Cover the cuttings with two layers of polyethylene, placing between them a layer of rare or translucent fabric. You can use other methods of shading, for example, put a plastic mesh fruit box on top of polyethylene, which will provide you with a sliding shadow. Make sure that the sand in the cutting does not dry out, spray the cuttings 2-3 times a day: they successfully root at 100%. Spray once a week with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate to prevent mold from forming on the leaves.

Lilac cuttings take root for a very long time, depending on the variety, the roots appear on the 40-60th day after planting. With the formation of roots, the stalk must be ventilated in the evening, and then open it completely.

Caring for rooted cuttings

If rooting happened late, then it is best to leave the cuttings for the winter in the cuttings. If the cuttings managed to take root before the end of August, early autumn they can be planted in a school - on a special bed for growing. In the year of rooting, the plant does not give shoots, but builds up. The leaves on the cuttings usually darken by the end of the season - this is not scary. If the buds are alive, the plants should take root.

For growing young seedlings, choose a bright place. The soil should be light and fertile, neutral or slightly acidic. Fill it with humus or compost, add, if necessary, 300-400 g or 200 g dolomite flour for 1 square meter and dig a shovel onto the bayonet. Plant rooted cuttings at a distance of about 30 cm.

Young lilac roots are very fragile, so plant them carefully, without compacting the soil, just water it so that the earth settles a little.

For the first winter or provide any other dry shelter. In the spring, with the onset of warm weather, remove the shelter. At good care(weeding, loosening, regular feeding) after two years, lilacs can be planted in a permanent place. Lilac blooms after cuttings in the 4-5th year, but after 1-2 years of growing, you can plant it in a permanent place.

Lilac can be propagated by shoots (own-root specimens), layering, grafting and green cuttings. Gardeners have an erroneous opinion that own-rooted lilac blooms worse. However, it is in no way inferior to the inflorescences grafted in size and beauty, and besides, it is more durable. There are plantings that, with proper care, do not lose their decorative effect for more than 50 years.

One of the most available ways lilac breeding - green cuttings . Best time for this - in the spring during flowering or immediately after it. Cuttings are cut from young green shoots, healthy and flexible. Such a handle can be rolled into a ring by wrapping it around your finger, and it will not break. By location on the bush, it is better to take shoots from the middle and lower peripheral parts of the bush, crown shoots take root worse. Not suitable for harvesting lilac cuttings are shoots coming from thick branches - tops, or fat shoots, in lilac tops, as a rule, do not take root. Shoots intended for cuttings should not have flower buds, all the forces of the cuttings should be given to growth and rooting, and not useless attempts at flowering.

It is better to cut shoots for cuttings early in the morning, in wet or cloudy weather. The cuttings should have two internodes, the lower cut at an angle at some distance from the kidneys, and the upper straight cut just above the kidneys. For this, use a well-sharpened grafting knife or a special pruner to injure the tissue at the cut site as little as possible. Cuttings cut exactly at the internodes do not root. The lower pair of leaves is removed to avoid moisture evaporation, the upper one is shortened by half. The lower cut can be powdered with root or soaked for several hours in heteroauxin.

The place for rooting cuttings should be in the shade. A trench is pulled up to a depth of twenty centimeters, drainage is placed on the bottom - crushed stone, expanded clay or coarse sand, a mixture of sand and peat on top. It’s not bad if you replace part of the sand with perlite, it retains moisture better and at the same time breathes, preventing the cuttings from rotting. Compact the soil and spill it with a solution of phytosporin, potassium permanganate or another fungicide. The stem of the cutting is deepened by about 2 cm, the lower node with the kidneys should be below the soil level. The distance between seedlings is 4-5 cm. The cuttings are then spilled with water and covered with clear jars or cut-off plastic bottles. If you plant a lot of cuttings, you can build over them common canopy from transparent polyethylene film. In hot weather, especially if the sun's rays fall on the landing site, it is advisable to additionally shade with white paper, cloth or agrofibre. Optimum temperature for rooting 22-26 degrees, air humidity 85-95%, it is maintained by careful spraying of plants so that small droplets always cover the leaves.

Further rooting strongly depends on the lilac variety you have chosen: in some varieties, the rooting rate of cuttings is up to 80-90 percent, in other varieties it is not more than ten to fifteen percent, so the more cuttings you prepare, the higher the chance of getting young ones. self-rooted seedlings. It will not be superfluous to use various growth stimulants, for example, Epin, Zircon, etc.

The process of rooting in lilacs takes a long time, the first weak roots appear after 1-1.5 months. All this time, the plant must be carefully watered and aired from time to time. Feeding with biological preparations is desirable, for example, such as Biovit, Riverm, potassium humate. In the year of rooting, the plant does not give shoots, but increases root system. The leaves on the cuttings usually darken by the end of the season - this is not a problem if the buds are alive, the plants should take root. In autumn, young bushes are covered with fallen leaves, spruce branches or agrofibre, and in this form they will wait until next spring. In the spring, the plants are transplanted to another school, with a large distance between them, but they still need to be protected from direct sunlight.

In autumn, the plants are moved to a permanent place, flowering usually occurs in the fourth or fifth year after cutting the cuttings.

All varieties of lilac reproduce well layering . Layering can be obtained by spudding vertically growing young shoots. To do this, in the fall, the uterine bush is heavily pruned, on next year shoots that have grown by 15-20 cm are pulled at the base with copper wire or a transverse incision is made under the first pair of developed buds. These techniques stimulate root formation. Then the shoots are spudded to half their length, and as they grow, fertile soil is added. In September, they are carefully dug up, cut off with secateurs under the constriction and planted in a school, deepening somewhat.

There is another, the so-called Chinese way of diverting shoots. As a mother bush, a 3-4-year-old plant is selected, which is cut off “on a stump” in the fall, leaving two pairs of well-developed buds. trunk circle fertilize with humus, cover hemp for the winter with a leaf. In the spring, shoots develop from the buds, which are also cut in the following autumn in a similar way. This is done until 8-10 shoots grow on the mother bush. In early spring, half of them are laid out in grooves 1.5-2 cm deep, pinned in several places aluminum wire and covered with fertile soil. Rooting is stimulated by pulling the shoots with copper wire under the first pair of buds before or after bending down.

Rooting begins in 45-50 days. As new shoots grow from awakened buds, they are sprinkled with earth for better rooting. Throughout the growing season, lilacs are carefully looked after: they are regularly watered, the soil is loosened, the shoots are spudded 2-3 times. In autumn, the layers are carefully separated with secateurs, leaving a stump 10 cm long, and planted on a prepared ridge for growing.

Another way to propagate native-rooted lilac varieties is overgrowth branch which can be held twice per season. In early June, when young shoots reach 5-7 cm in height, they are planted in a cold greenhouse, carefully separated along with tender roots. Here, for two weeks, the seedlings are kept under a film and sprayed with water. Then the shelter is removed and the plants are watered as needed. For the winter they are left in a greenhouse, and in the spring they are transplanted to grow into a school. The second time the shoots can be separated from the mother bush in late August-early September. By this time, the shoots are woody and have a developed root system. They are transplanted to the ridge and covered with fallen leaves.

From spring to mid-summer own root varieties lilacs can be propagated cuttings of underground shoots . As far as possible, young, light-colored underground shoots are dug out from the trunk and cut with secateurs into cuttings 10 cm long. A bed with a film cover or a cold greenhouse is prepared for planting. The cuttings are planted obliquely at a distance of 20 cm. The upper end should be underground at a depth of about 1 cm. With regular watering, green shoots appear after 20 days. Rooted cuttings are grown for 2 years in the garden before being planted in a permanent place.

All cultivars lilacs reproduce vegetatively: shoots (own-root specimens), layering, grafting and green cuttings. If you do not have grafting skills, and it is problematic for you to make layering, then the most suitable method for you is propagation by green cuttings.

Gardeners have an erroneous opinion that it blooms worse. However, it is in no way inferior in terms of, moreover, it is more durable. There are landings that proper care do not lose their decorative effect for more than 50 years. refers to plants that are difficult to root, therefore, for successful reproduction, a number of conditions must be met:

It is very important to observe the deadlines for harvesting cuttings. Semi-lignified cuttings do not root. The most suitable time is the moment of flowering or immediately after it, when the young overgrown branches finish their growth.
It is desirable to cut the cuttings in the early morning from young bushes from the middle of the crown, using twigs of medium thickness (in extreme cases, thin ones) from the middle part of the shoot. It is best to have 2-3 nodes on it and fairly short internodes.

Shoots coming from thick branches - tops, or fat shoots are not suitable for harvesting lilac cuttings. In lilac tops, as a rule, do not take root.

Preparation of cuttings

First, completely remove the leaves from the bottom node.

Cut the remaining leaf blades in half.

Remove the top of the shoot by making a straight cut over the top node.

Immediately after cutting the cuttings, place them in the stimulant solution Epin-extra at 16-18 hours. Immediately before planting, they will need to be washed with clean water.

Rooting lilac cuttings in a greenhouse

It is best to plant cuttings in a greenhouse or located in partial shade. In extreme cases, you can do without a greenhouse by covering the cuttings with cut five-liter potable water. Prepare the soil for planting. To do this, mix with sand in a ratio of 1: 1. Not bad if you replace part of the sand with perlite. It retains moisture better and at the same time breathes, preventing the cuttings from rotting. Fill the stalk with this mixture with a layer of 15-20 cm. From above, cover it with a layer of sand (preferably river sand) 5 cm thick. Pour the prepared place well with a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Vitaros, Maxim). This will protect the cuttings from damage by fungal diseases.

Lilac cuttings take root difficult, so the use of root stimulants is necessary. Dip the cutting with the wet end into the stimulator Kornevin.

Spray the cuttings with a spray bottle with water. You can add the solution remaining from soaking the cuttings to the water. Epina-extra.

Cover the stalk with two layers of polyethylene, placing a layer of thin or translucent fabric between them. You can use other methods of shading, for example, put a plastic mesh fruit box on top of polyethylene, which will provide you with a sliding shadow. Make sure that the sand in the cutting does not dry out, spray the cuttings 2-3 times a day: they successfully root at 100%. Spray once a week with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate to prevent mold from forming on the leaves.

Caring for rooted cuttings

If rooting happened late, then it is best to leave the cuttings for the winter in the cuttings. If the cuttings managed to take root before the end of August, in early autumn they can be planted in a school - on a special bed for growing. In the year of rooting, the plant does not give shoots, but builds up. The leaves on the cuttings usually darken by the end of the season - this is not scary. If the buds are alive, the plants should take root.

For growing young seedlings, choose a bright place. The soil should be light and fertile, neutral or slightly acidic. Fill it with humus or compost, add, if necessary, 300-400 g or 200 g of dolomite flour per 1 square meter and dig it onto a shovel bayonet. Plant rooted cuttings at a distance of about 30 cm.

Young lilac roots are very fragile, so plant them carefully, without compacting the soil, just water it so that the earth settles a little.

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Varietal lilac strikes with a variety of shades and shapes. But, unlike their wild-growing species relatives, cultivars of lilac do not often give root shoots, and if they do, it is most likely the root offspring of the stock on which the variety was grafted. Nevertheless, varietal lilac can be propagated, and in several different ways.

Reproduction by green cuttings

Green cuttings are summer young, non-lignified shoots with 4-6 leaves, which are cut during abundant flowering bush when the lengthening of the shoot stops. Not all varieties of lilacs are able to take root, but cuttings of Olympiad Kolesnikova, Nadezhda, Mulatka, India, St. Margaret, Katherine Havemeyer and others give good roots. Keep in mind that only about half of the cut green cuttings will take root. Moreover, the younger the bush from which the cuttings are taken, the better result. Cuttings cut at an angle are treated with root formation stimulants (for example, Kornevin) and planted vertically in greenhouses with a substrate of sand, peat and perlite. Greenhouses should have high humidity (close to 100%), but there should be no stagnant water in the soil. The first roots should appear in 2-3 months.

Graft

Varieties in which cuttings do not take root are propagated by standard reliable grafting methods. Most often, the vaccination is carried out in the summer, in July-August, using any method. An interesting solution is the grafting of several varieties on mature plant, such a bush will delight you with flowers of different shades.

seed propagation

For lovers of experiments, you can try seed propagation varietal lilac. To do this, you need to keep a few inflorescences on the bush, let them ripen and cut the panicles in October-November before the seed pods open. Panicles dry and shake out the seeds. Seeds can be sown before winter or in spring after stratification. The result will have to wait 4-5 years, when the seedlings bloom for the first time. Most likely, all the signs of the original variety will not be reproduced, seedlings can either surpass their parents in beauty, or yield to them. But even if the results do not please you, the plants can be used as a rootstock.

layering

To propagate lilacs by layering in spring, one-year-old branches are bent, pinned to the ground and covered with soil. The soil at the point of fixation of the layering should always be moist. If the variety is able to propagate in this way, then by autumn, the rooted cuttings can be separated from the mother plant.

One of the most affordable ways to propagate lilacs is green cuttings . The best time for this is in the spring during flowering or immediately after it. Cuttings are cut from young green shoots, healthy and flexible. Such a handle can be rolled into a ring by wrapping it around your finger, and it will not break. By location on the bush, it is better to take shoots from the middle and lower peripheral parts of the bush, crown shoots take root worse. Not suitable for harvesting lilac cuttings are shoots coming from thick branches - tops, or fat shoots, in lilac tops, as a rule, do not take root. The shoots intended for cuttings should not have flower buds, all the forces of the cuttings should be given to growth and rooting, and not useless attempts at flowering.

Shoots for cuttings are best cut early in the morning, in wet or cloudy weather. The cuttings should have two internodes, the lower cut at an angle at some distance from the kidneys, and the upper straight cut just above the kidneys. For this, use a well-sharpened grafting knife or a special pruner to injure the tissue at the cut site as little as possible. Cuttings cut exactly at the internodes do not root. The lower pair of leaves is removed to avoid moisture evaporation, the upper one is shortened by half. The lower cut can be powdered with root or soaked for several hours in heteroauxin.

The place for rooting cuttings should be in the shade. A trench is pulled up to a depth of twenty centimeters, drainage is placed on the bottom - crushed stone, expanded clay or coarse sand, a mixture of sand and peat on top. It’s not bad if you replace part of the sand with perlite, it retains moisture better and at the same time breathes, preventing the cuttings from rotting. Compact the soil and spill it with a solution of phytosporin, potassium permanganate or another fungicide. The stem of the cutting is deepened by about 2 cm, the lower node with the kidneys should be below the soil level. The distance between seedlings is 4-5 cm. Then the cuttings are spilled with water and covered with transparent jars or cut plastic bottles. If you plant a lot of cuttings, you can build a common canopy over them from a transparent plastic film. In hot weather, especially if the sun's rays fall on the landing site, it is advisable to additionally shade with white paper, cloth or agrofibre. The optimum temperature for rooting is 22-26 degrees, air humidity is 85-95%, it is maintained by careful spraying of plants so that small droplets always cover the leaves.

Further rooting strongly depends on the lilac variety you have chosen: in some varieties, the rooting rate of cuttings is up to 80-90 percent, in other varieties it is not more than ten to fifteen percent, so the more cuttings you prepare, the higher the chance to get young rooted seedlings. It will not be superfluous to use various growth stimulants, for example, Epin, Zircon, etc.

The process of rooting in lilacs takes a long time, the first weak roots appear after 1-1.5 months. All this time, the plant must be carefully watered and aired from time to time. Feeding with biological preparations is desirable, for example, such as Biovit, Riverm, potassium humate. In the year of rooting, the plant does not give shoots, but builds up the root system. The leaves on the cuttings usually darken by the end of the season - this is not a problem if the buds are alive, the plants should take root. In autumn, young bushes are covered with fallen leaves, spruce branches or agrofibre, and in this form they will wait until next spring. In the spring, the plants are transplanted to another school, with a large distance between them, but they still need to be protected from direct sunlight.

In autumn, the plants are moved to a permanent place, flowering usually occurs in the fourth or fifth year after cutting the cuttings.

All varieties of lilac reproduce well layering . Layering can be obtained by spudding vertically growing young shoots. To do this, in the fall, the uterine bush is heavily pruned, the next year the shoots that have grown by 15-20 cm are pulled at the base with copper wire or a transverse incision is made under the first pair of developed buds. These techniques stimulate root formation. Then the shoots are spudded to half their length, and as they grow, fertile soil is added. In September, they are carefully dug up, cut off with secateurs under the constriction and planted in a school, deepening somewhat.

There is another, the so-called Chinese way of diverting shoots. As a mother bush, a 3-4-year-old plant is selected, which is cut off “on a stump” in the fall, leaving two pairs of well-developed buds. The trunk circle is fertilized with humus, hemp is covered with a leaf for the winter. In the spring, shoots develop from the buds, which are also cut in the following autumn in a similar way. This is done until 8-10 shoots grow on the mother bush. In early spring, half of them are laid out in grooves 1.5-2 cm deep, pinned in several places with aluminum wire and sprinkled with fertile soil. Rooting is stimulated by pulling the shoots with copper wire under the first pair of buds before or after bending down.

From spring to mid-summer, own-rooted lilac varieties can be propagated cuttings of underground shoots . As far as possible, young, light-colored underground shoots are dug out from the trunk and cut with secateurs into cuttings 10 cm long. A bed with a film cover or a cold greenhouse is prepared for planting. The cuttings are planted obliquely at a distance of 20 cm. The upper end should be underground at a depth of about 1 cm. With regular watering, green shoots appear after 20 days. Rooted cuttings are grown for 2 years in the garden before being planted in a permanent place.

In our country, lilac is rightfully considered one of the most beloved ornamental shrubs. To date, there are more than 30 varieties of it in the world and more than 200 have been bred. different varieties. This article will consider the methods of propagation of lilacs, all possible nuances and features of each of the processes.

The main methods of reproduction

For the full development and growth of this shrub, as well as for a long and lush flowering requires a combination of several factors:

full lighting;
wind protection;
good drainage to prevent moisture stagnation.

Subject to these conditions, the plant will grow quickly enough, which will allow the grower to independently propagate his favorite varieties of lilacs in his area.

Lilac reproduces in the following ways:

Cuttings.
Growing from seed.
Root growth.
root cuttings.
Grafting.

Each of the above methods has its own advantages and difficulties, and in order to achieve a successful result, you must follow the requirements and rules.

Lilac cuttings

Growing a beautiful lilac from a twig is not too difficult and even an inexperienced amateur gardener can do it. There are two types of this method:

green cuttings;
woody shoots.

Propagation of lilacs by green cuttings

With this method, planting material is prepared either during flowering or immediately after, that is, lilac cuttings are carried out in the spring. Side shoots, branches from the central (main) branches are selected.

Lilac cuttings must be cut from shoots on which 4-6 leaves have formed, while each of the cuttings must be at least 15 cm long and have at least 3 pairs of buds. The lower cut is made obliquely, slightly below the last kidneys. For each prepared sprig of lilac, you need to remove 2 lower leaves. All leaves must be cut in half, as shown in the picture.

Next, all the tops of the cuttings are cut off, the cut should be straight. The lower end of the branch is treated with some kind of growth stimulant, for example, Kornevin. The stalk should be kept for several hours in a solution prepared according to the instructions for the preparation, or simply dipped in rooting powder to save time.

After preparing the planting material, you need to organize a bed for rooting lilacs. To do this, a small depression is dug at the landing site and drainage (sand or expanded clay) is laid with a layer of about 12 cm. Next, humus is placed and covered with earth, then the landing site must be carefully shed with water.

After that, the planting material is planted on the prepared bed, keeping the distance between plants and rows of at least 10 cm. After planting, it is necessary to arrange a greenhouse - install the frame and stretch the film. The height of the frame should not be less than 50 cm. An example can be seen in the picture below.

Optimal conditions for rooting, a combination of temperature of 20 - 25 degrees and humidity at the level of 90 - 95% is considered.

The greenhouse should be regularly ventilated, for which you need to slightly raise the edges of the film, avoiding a sharp temperature drop and cold drafts getting inside. After a month and a half, after the start of intensive root formation, the greenhouse can be removed. Further care in summer it consists in regular watering as the soil dries out and weeding. In autumn (September), the strongest seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent place, and the weak ones should winter covered.

You can also root green lilac cuttings in flower pots or boxes at home. Preparation is carried out in the same way, the cuttings are planted as in the picture.

When harvesting planting material, one should take into account the fact that about half of the branches will take root and survive, so that initially 2 times more shoots need to be prepared for rooting. Thus, lilac propagation is carried out by cuttings in the spring.

You can get acquainted with the opinion of a specialist on the topic of how to propagate lilac cuttings in the video below.

Reproduction by lignified shoots

Lilac propagation by cuttings can also be done by rooting already adult shoots, usually one-year-old branches. planting material in this case, it is harvested in autumn or already at the end of winter. Branches should also not be shorter than 15 cm, have at least 3 pairs of buds. The shoots must either be dug into the sand and put away for the winter in a cold cellar, or simply buried in the snow until spring.

In the spring, planting lilacs with cuttings is carried out similarly to the previous method. When harvesting branches, it should be borne in mind that such shoots take root poorly, the survival rate will be at best 30%. If you plant a lilac from a twig in this way, then the seedlings will begin to bloom no earlier than in 5 years.

Growing method from seed

Lilac seeds are usually collected in late autumn, after leaf fall, before the first frost. After harvesting, they must be dried until the valves are fully opened.

The next step is to stratify them. To do this, the seeds are mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 3 (for one part of the seeds, 3 parts of wet sand) and kept in a refrigerator or cellar for two months.

Seedlings are sown in March. The soil requires preliminary disinfection (steaming, treatment with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, etc.). Lilac seeds are deepened into the ground by several centimeters, after watering the container must be covered with a film, creating a mini-greenhouse.

seedlings common lilac appear after 2 weeks, and varietal - 2-3 months after sowing.

After the appearance of sprouts, the coating from the container must be removed. At the age of 2 weeks, seedlings should be dived into separate containers. Further care is regular watering (avoid waterlogging the soil).

You can also sow seeds directly into the ground, sowing dates - before winter, before frost, until the soil is frozen. In the spring, when the shoots get a little stronger and several true leaves appear on each, the seedlings are seated.

Growing lilac from seeds does not retain the characteristics of the variety, the result can be unpredictable. Usually this method is used when growing a stock for subsequent grafting of varietal lilacs.

Root growth

Reproduction of lilacs by young root shoots is the easiest and most natural way at the same time, because. lilac has the ability to independently form shoots from the mother bush. In this case, the transplant is carried out only once, immediately to a permanent place, and the seedling receives minimal injury.

The main advantage of this method is that the young plant will have all the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

You need to plant lilacs in the fall, before mid-October, no later. The procedure is best done on a cloudy day. Before separating a young plant, it is necessary to shed the soil well with water, the main root must be cut carefully, minimally injuring the fragile root system of the young bush, at a distance of at least 15-20 cm from the mother bush. After planting in a permanent place, it must be well watered and provide shelter for the winter.

Some experts advise to carry out this procedure in the summer, starting in July, to give the young plant time to take root and grow stronger after transplantation.

root cuttings

Lilacs can be propagated by layering. This breeding option can be done in 3 ways:

simple abduction;
Dalem method (vertical layering);
Chinese way (horizontal layering).

simple abduction

This breeding option for lilacs is very simple to perform. In the spring, strong branches at the age of 1 year must be bent to the ground and dug in, previously secured with a hairpin or bracket. During the growing season, it is necessary to moisten and add soil to the shoot in a timely manner in the place where it was dug.

This method requires a long time, since it will be possible to separate a young plant from the mother bush no earlier than 4 years after full rooting and the formation of its own root system.

Dahlem way

The breeding process of lilacs in this case will also be delayed for several seasons, since only preliminary preparation takes 2 years. It consists of the following steps:

choice of mother bush;
full pruning of branches in the fall for two seasons.

In the third year, as soon as the branches on the mother bush reach 20 cm in length, it is necessary to carry out the procedures in a certain sequence. Step by step it looks like this.

The very first kidneys, which are the most developed, are chosen, and an incision is made on the cortex under them. It is wrapped with wire in several turns, this is necessary in order to stimulate root formation. This is done with several of the strongest shoots, so as not to weaken the entire bush.
The shoots are dug in half, then the earth is sprinkled in the process of growing a young bush so that it is always half in the ground.
In autumn, layering should be dug up and transplanted for growing.

Chinese way

This method of lilac propagation is also called the horizontal layering method. It is also easiest to use by following the following sequence of steps.

In early spring, after the ground dries out a little, choose a strong bush at the age of 3-4 years. Furrows 2 cm deep are drawn around it.
Strong branches at the age of 1 year should be laid in furrows and fixed in several places.
Using copper wire, wrap each branch three times in front of the buds.
Cover the furrows with soil and water regularly.
After some time, new shoots will begin to grow from the ground, which, as they grow, must be covered with soil at half their height, before the onset of autumn.
During the season, add soil 3 times, as a result, the height of the embankment will be approximately 25 cm.
In September, young layers should be separated and grown over several years.

Lilac grafting

On the awakening kidney (carried out in early spring from early March to early April).
On a dormant bud (budding), carried out from the first decade of July to the first decade of August.

Most often, lilac vaccination is carried out in the summer, since in early spring it is very difficult to catch the right moment. The procedure consists of several stages:

rootstock preparation;
scion preparation;
shield manufacturing;
budding procedure;
care after budding.

Rootstock preparation

The most optimal is the independent cultivation of the rootstock from seeds, because. Vaccinations on layering are less likely to end successfully. In preparation, you need to do the following:

in June, cut off the side branches, leaving shoots 10 - 14 cm;
a week before the procedure, you need to water the bush well for easier separation of the bark.

The root neck should be up to 1.5 cm in diameter.

Scion preparation

When preparing material for budding, the following conditions must be met:

the shoot for the scion must be at the age of 1 year;
the length of the grafting cutting should be from 20 to 30 cm, thickness up to 4 mm;
the shoot for the scion must be completely lignified, with large buds in the axils;
it must be cut off a week before the procedure;
after cutting, you need to remove the leaves, leaving the petioles;
before inoculation, store the inoculation material in a cool wet place(in the refrigerator, wrapped in a damp cloth or moss).

Shield manufacturing

The shield is a scion prepared for grafting. Prepare it as follows:

large buds must be removed from the shoot (recommended in the middle part of the cutting);
at a height of 0.7 mm above the kidney to be cut with a sharp knife, make a shallow incision at an acute angle, a little deeper under the kidney itself;
move the bark away from the edge of the cut, being careful not to damage the wood, otherwise the grafting will not work.

Budding procedure

The vaccination process consists of a certain sequence of actions.

Clean the rootstock site, wipe the grafting site with a damp cloth.
With a sharply sharpened knife blade, make an incision in the shape of the letter T from 2 to 3 cm long, its height above the ground should be at least 3 cm from the ground surface.
Lightly separate the bark at the incision points.
Carefully insert the shield into the incision in the center, under the bark on the rootstock.
Fix the vaccination site with a bandage of electrical tape or elastic bandage. The bandage is fixed on the entire surface of the graft, from top to bottom, but the kidney must remain open.
The rootstock must be sprinkled with soil, you can water it in a week.
After 3 weeks, you can evaluate the result of budding. If the corymb bud remains fresh, then the inoculation was a success. If the bud on the shield is dry, then budding has failed.

Before the onset of frost, the grafted stock is mulched with peat, the place of budding should be at a depth of at least 10 cm.

In the spring, from the second half of March to the beginning of April, peat should be removed, the bandage removed and the stem cut to a height of 5-7 cm above the kidney, leaving the so-called spike. The place of pruning must be treated with garden pitch. So that the young grafted shoot does not break, it is tied to a thorn. Starting from the third year, the grafted shoot can be transplanted to a permanent place.

Care after budding

Starting from the second year after grafting, you can begin to care for the grafted plant. You need to water it regularly, loosen the soil and cut off new growth. You can fertilize in the spring complex fertilizer in the amount of 20-30 g according to the instructions for use.

In conclusion, it can be noted that among several types of lilac propagation, each grower can choose the most interesting for him. A novice flower lover is able to grow his lilac from a cutting, and an experienced one can bud on a grown one. with my own hands from rootstock seeds.