Seedlings of tomatoes who eat what to do. Diseases of tomato seedlings - "ambulance" for young plants. Freezing tomato seedlings

add photo Show previous comments (showing %s of %s) Valentina Kravchenko And I have an ascended onion in some places "trimmed". It seems that onions are a bitter thing, but someone likes it! ..

I also watched the birds, and loosened the ground around the bulbs in order to find insects, but so far to no avail. Text hiddenExpand Laura S I also eat planted seedlings this way, this year the cabbage is all cut off.

These are fat caterpillars, I don’t know what they are called ... I find them in the holes where the seedlings are cut, in the upper layer of the earth. Text hiddenExpand Elena Igorevna - Laura S Either a scoop or a Khrushchev, give a photo, let's say who the text is hiddenexpand

Laura S R. S. By the way, they not only eat up vegetable seedlings, I also cut tulips and gladioli. Text hiddenExpand Galina Gubina (Maslova) Our cat ate a tomato seedling once!

They also thought for a long time - who will seed the EU? Then a cat was caught at the crime scene! tatyana elistratova (bibina) we also had a similar story.

Then they found a nest of mice voles. The text is hiddenexpand 21 May 12, at 18:17 Zaremma Tyurina (----------------… Girls, I don’t know where you live, but we have been attacked in Tula for several years now from the white beetle of the Maybug.

Everyone eats: tomatoes, and cabbage, and cucumbers, and strawberries, etc. We don’t even know how to save ourselves. Nothing takes them. The text is hiddenexpand 21 May 12, at 19:06 natalia yul We had such a problem, and black beetles turned out to be the culprits, we say * dung beetle *.

There were a lot of them divorced in those years ... I walked around the garden and dug up minks ... It's good that there were only 6 acres ..

Text hiddenExpand Ivan Ivanov No one paid attention to the dirty tricks of ordinary black crickets, which are nothing but locusts! Lone Wolf So much has been written...

I’m all at a loss ... Almost all of these misfortunes are in our garden ... and beetles, and crickets, and mice, voles, and dung beetles, and ubiquitous cats roam, and some kind of gray-brown caterpillars, and someone digs not deep, but not a bear, bigger ... some kind of animal.

All this was many years, but only this year, as someone cut the tomato shoots, only 0.5-0.7 mm stumps remained, at the stage of cotyledon leaves. Of course, the growth point is destroyed and everything is gone.

And those seeds that "sat too long", or rather "stale" longer in the soil, were perhaps buried deeper, subsequently sprouted and remained intact (but very little remained). And so think, guess... Who is this pest? This has never happened before!

This year for the first time! Elena Igorevna - Lone Wolf I cut the seedlings (it was processed, perhaps that’s why they didn’t touch it, it remained to lie cut side by side) cut off - it grows and pleases the eye

Evgeniya Pugachyova (Borzunova) In my greenhouse, too, someone cut the stems of a tomato. I treated with the drug "Decis" poured into the rows under the root. And immediately everything stopped.

Text hiddenExpand Ismakaeva (Voronova) Neli A piece laundry soap scold (75%) on a bucket of water, boil, pour under the root and not a single infection will touch the plant. Text hiddenExpand

22 May 12, at 08:30 Elena Igorevna - Ismakaeva (Voronova) Neli I make it easier - I have a washbasin right on the site, just my hands with laundry soap - and then I drain the water under the plant one by one, so I get them all processed about once a week. But I didn’t have time to water them yet, they cut them off that same night, which I planted.

25 May 12, at 11:20 Natalya Evpalova We have a dacha in the Ryazan region. Local old-timers say that there is such a holiday "magpies." (Emphasis on the first syllable) She has a permanent date. It somehow counts.

But the bottom line is that on the day of the week on which it falls, no crops can be planted - birds will peck. This year, Magpies fell on a Thursday. I understand intellectually that this is nonsense, but it is difficult to argue with folk wisdom. Text hiddenExpand

22 May 12, at 09:30 Tatiana I have a dacha in the suburbs, 40 km. in the southeast. so we have divorced grape snails that devour the seedlings of zucchini and cucumbers, we have to cover them with five-liter jars with a cut bottom. we turn off the lid, and tie the neck with gauze, otherwise they may crawl. in eating a tomato were not seen. Text hiddenExpand

Valery Podlesny Apparently this is a nibbling shovel - a small caterpillar. Text hiddenExpand Svetlana Bredis For me it was done by black grasshoppers. They are in the ground, but young beets were eaten in 1 day. I don't know how to deal with them.

What gluttons is for sure. The text is hiddenexpand 24 May 12, at 16:39 Vladimir Gorbov Yes, this is a beetle, as one comment was already written, I don’t know the exact name, when I found it on the Internet, but I don’t remember exactly, we have a lot of them in the gardens, they cut greens, and any, they crap for a couple of months in late spring, early summer, cut the stems Raves, no matter what, drag the ground into the mink and lay their eggs there.

The beetle itself is small, 1.5-2 cm of which half or even more is a head with a large jaw. Here they are most likely to cut seedlings. Text hiddenExpand Elena Igorevna Thank you all and good harvests!

Periodically remove drops of moisture (condensate) from the inner surface of the film or glass. The temperature is maintained in the range of 20°C-25°C.

The film is removed and containers with seedlings are placed in the most illuminated place with a temperature in the range: during the day - 12 ° С-15 ° С, at night - 8 ° С-10 ° С for 4-7 days. By lowering the temperature, the seedlings will take root well. To do this, you can slightly open the window, and on windows with double-glazed windows, open the frame to the "ventilation" position.

waiting for the appearance of 1-2 true leaves

The air temperature is further maintained within 20°C-25°C, and air humidity at 65-70%. To do this, a bucket of water is placed under the window near the heating radiator.

picking seedlings into individual pots (cups)

Read how to dive seedlings here. When diving seedlings into cold greenhouses or temporary film shelters, seedlings with 2-3 true leaves are used.

10 days after picking or after the appearance of 1-2 true leaves

Top dressing (1) seedlings with a solution mineral fertilizers combined with irrigation.

14 days after the first feeding

Top dressing (2) of seedlings with a solution of mineral fertilizers, combined with watering.

7 - 10 days before landing at a permanent place

Spraying seedlings with a 5% solution of copper sulfate. This will prevent fungal diseases. And immediately before planting, seedlings and holes in the ground are watered with a solution of potassium permanganate (2 g per 10 liters of water); - hardening of seedlings. When the outdoor temperature rises to 10 ° C during the day, the seedlings are taken out to the balcony for hardening for the day. At first, shade with paper from straight lines sun rays. In the future, if the weather allows, the seedlings are left on the balcony around the clock, covering for the night.

planting seedlings in a permanent place

60 - 75 days after germination, when the threat of last frost has passed. Hardened seedlings can be planted 10 days earlier.

Seedlings should be with the first flower brush. Used to protect seedlings various means to fight frost.

Further cultivation of tomatoes is a completely different story! But I remember interesting experience growing seedlings, which I read about in the journal Science and Life in the late 80s of the last century (sounds like I'm a long-lived old man). Now I can't remember exact year, neither the issue of the magazine, nor the author of that wonderful method of growing tomato seedlings, which was described on the pages of the magazine. But I remember the main thing well, because it struck me.

So, one amateur vegetable grower near Moscow (if someone remembers or knows this person, please write in the comments) grew tomato bushes the size of a tree. I still remember the photo in which this innovator enthusiast poses on a completely glazed (walls and ceiling) terrace next to a barrel in which a giant, sprawling (3 meters high) tomato bush grows, hung with numerous fruits. No matter how you lie, but in my opinion, he collected more than 100 kg of tomatoes from this bush. Impressive, isn't it? Anticipating possible questions, it should be said that this three-meter tomato has nothing to do with the SPRUT F1 tomato tree - an indeterminate (with unlimited growth) tomato variety that is really grown like a real tree. SPRUT F1 is grown hydroponically in heated greenhouses for 14-18 months, of which the first 7-8 months the plant is not allowed to bear fruit (stepchildren and remove all leaves and brushes on the main stem) forming a crown when it reaches a height of about 2 m. Area crowns is up to 50 square meters. After the formation of the crown, the tomato tree is not stepsoned, giving it complete freedom. From such a tree, you can collect up to 1.5 tons of fruits. Also impressive. But the problem is that the technology of growing the SPRUT F1 tomato tree is complex and requires special knowledge of hydroponics, equipment, control devices, constant monitoring of the plant nutrition process, finally a heated greenhouse, etc. Some gardeners grow SPRUT F1 in greenhouses as an experiment in the usual way(without hydroponics) and, of course, they do not achieve any special results. True, some advise the plant not to pinch or pinch at all - then, they say, the SPRUT F1 will give a good harvest. Let's return to our Moscow region innovator. This vegetable grower achieved such a result as follows. In February, I sowed the seeds of some tall late-ripening tomato variety for seedlings. With the advent of the first true leaves, I chose several of the strongest sprouts and planted the seedlings into small cups (3x3 or 4x4 cm). But, the pick was carried out in an original way - each plant was laid in the soil in a spiral. The technique is as follows: a little soil mixture is added to the bottom of the cup, a tomato, carefully dug with roots, is placed in the cup and sprinkled with earth so that the stem lies in an arc. Only true leaves and part of the stem (no more than 1 cm) are left on the surface. Then, with the growth of the 4th true leaf, the plant dives again, but already in a liter milk bag, with a side wall cut out (and disinfected inner and outer surfaces ). The bag is also half filled with earth, the tomato seedlings taken out with a clod of earth are placed sideways closer to the end of the bag and sprinkled with soil mixture, leaving only 2 top leaves. With the growth of the 6th leaf, the procedure is repeated, transplanting the plants into a container bigger size. So that when transplanting a lump of earth with roots does not crumble, the tomato is not watered before picking. The plant is removed as follows: a glass (package) is taken by the bottom with the left hand, palm right hand lies on the surface of the soil, while the stem is passed between the index and ring fingers without touching them and turns upside down. Further, when 7-9 leaves grow, the plant is transplanted into a barrel or similar, a wide and fairly deep container, 3/4 filled with earth. The tomato is removed with a clod of earth, again placed sideways in a barrel and sprinkled until top leaves. As they grow, all stepchildren and lower leaves they also sprinkle (root) on the stem until the barrel is filled to the top level. Here is the main content of this unusual way. The goal of all these laying transplants is to maximize (build up) the root system of the plant. As you know, a tomato can develop vegetatively. If you cut off a stepson from an adult plant and plant it in the ground, it will quickly take root and begin to grow intensively. Here, additional rooting of plants begins from "infancy". The more powerful root system, the more viable and developed the plant and, accordingly, the greater the yield. And further. It seems that the grown bush did not stepchild and did not pinch, i.e. no agrotechnical methods for the formation of the bush were used at all, except for the garter of the main stem and fruit clusters. Unfortunately, I do not remember all the nuances of growing seedlings in this way. You have to try it yourself. This season I will conduct an experiment and be sure to share my experience. True, I do not have a completely glazed terrace. But you can do without it if you allocate a place in the greenhouse or build an individual structure protected by a film for such a signora-tomato, for example, bury a barrel halfway, hammer a 3-meter stake in the middle and fix the film on it. Well, or something like that.

Tomatoes, as plants that reproduce vegetatively, can be grown by rooting shoots (stepsons). If the latter are allowed to grow up to 15-20 cm, and then, cut off, planted obliquely in a seedling box, then soon they will have roots.

Thus, a "second echelon of seedlings" is obtained. Moreover, the rooted stepchildren are actually mature plants that catch up with the "mother cells" in growth and begin to bear fruit with them or a little later (flower brushes appear already on the lowest tier of leaves).

Some gardeners regularly use this method. It gives a significant advantage - frees from growing a large number seedlings. Moreover, the cultivation of tomatoes through stepchildren can be extended in the autumn-winter period at home.

Author

Growing a rich crop of tomatoes is a special pride of any owner garden plot. But when breeding seedlings and cultivating adult plants, tomato diseases are not uncommon, and special knowledge is needed to cope with them.

The article gives advice on how to deal with misfortunes and protect plants. Seedling diseases As a rule, the time for planting tomato seedlings begins in February and lasts until March. In it time runs sowing seeds in special containers that are located closer to the sun.

Only having risen, the seedlings already become vulnerable. After seed germination and their picking, tomato seedling diseases such as black leg, white spotting are possible. The black leg is called a nightshade thunderstorm, as it affects not only tomatoes, but also peppers and eggplants.

The first signs appear on seedlings. In plants, the subcotyledon begins to rot, and as a result they die. Black leg, like some other tomato diseases, is an infectious fungal disease.

Its pathogens are found in the soil and weak plants are affected by their exposure. In order not to miss the occurrence of the disease, seedlings must be carefully examined every day.

If a root neck the plant darkens, and it fades on sunny days - this indicates the first manifestations of the black leg. Seedlings at the very beginning of the development of the disease will help to save the following measures. For watering plants, it is necessary to make a weak solution of potassium permanganate, to spud them.

As a preventive measure for seedlings, it is better to use fresh, well-frozen soil in winter. Before sowing seeds, prepare a weak solution of potassium permanganate and water it. Crops should be planted not densely in moderately moist soil, which is loosened around the plants.

The room with tomato seedlings must be ventilated. Diseases of adult plants There are diseases of tomatoes that cause particular concern among gardeners. For example, mosaic, which is a viral disease, causes speckled areas on plant leaves.

Affected plants grow poorly and lose productivity. Tomato fungal diseases include white spot, brown spot, and late blight. They are characterized by the appearance of off-white or brown spots on plant leaves.

Developing, the fungus reduces the yield, can lead to the death of plants. Let us dwell in more detail on such a tomato disease as phytophthora, which is the most common and harmful. It infects plants during the fruiting period.

Its development is facilitated by wet and humid weather. The fungal disease spreads with the help of wind, dew and rain. In order for the plant not to be affected by late blight, it is necessary to remove old leaves in time.

Usually the disease begins to develop on potatoes, and then spreads to tomatoes. Its symptoms are the appearance of brown spots on the edges of the leaves and on the fruits. It is necessary to track the moment of its occurrence in order to take urgent measures.

During the fruiting period, tomatoes are fed with potassium and phosphorus to increase the resistance of plants to late blight. Watering should not be abused.

AT cloudy weather it is enough to restrict ourselves to loosening the soil around the plants. Sometimes they remember the chemicals that are used to combat late blight. But gardeners, not trusting such drugs, are looking for and finding other ways. For all gardeners-lovers of tomato disease and the fight against them is a burning topic.

Very often, common diseases of tomato seedlings destroy seedlings at the very beginning of growth, and all the efforts of the owners, trying to grow strong seedlings, become futile. How to deal with adversity, what to do to avoid plant diseases and grow healthy plants at home?

Prevention of fungal diseases

Black leg on tomato seedlings can cause damage already at the stage of seed germination, the fungus begins to develop on the stem of the plant at the exit from the ground, thinning and weakening the stem, in the future, the disease usually leads to lodging of seedlings and death. To avoid the onset of the disease, proper and timely prevention is needed - the treatment and disinfection of the soil for sowing seeds. The soil is steamed in an oven, watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, kept for several days in the cold, etc. The fungus tends to remain in the ground, with an increase in humidity, it actively develops, moving on to seedlings;

In the photo - tomato seedlings affected by a black leg

In the photo - a black leg of tomato seedlings

White leaf spot of seedlings (septoria) easy to recognize by dirty white and brown spots on the lower leaves of tomatoes, which gradually affect the plant completely. On the spots themselves, small dots, pycnidia (fruiting bodies of the fungus) will be noticeable. The size of the spots can be of different sizes, depending on the resistance of the variety or hybrid to the disease. Infection occurs through the soil where the fungus lives. Prevention consists in cultivating the land before sowing tomatoes, when the first signs appear, it is recommended to use fungicides (Alpha Copper, Bordeaux liquid, Ridomil gold, etc.) 10-14 days before planting in the ground;

In the photo - tomato seedling disease

In the photo - white spotting of tomato leaves

In the photo - Fusarium wilt tomato disease

In the photo - Fusarium wilt tomato

In addition to the listed diseases of tomato seedlings, there are others, for example, gray, white and black rot, the fight against which begins with the removal of diseased seedlings and soil treatment, as well as spraying with fungicidal preparations.

On the picture - gray rot on a tomato

Prevention of late blight begins at the stage of growing tomato seedlings. Apart from correct dressings, it is necessary to carry out weekly spraying with a solution of manganese (1 tsp per 10 l), using 0.5 cups of the finished liquid for two plants, immediately before planting, increase the dose using a glass of solution for one seedling.

Fight against viral diseases in seedlings

It is not so easy to notice viral diseases, in most cases, the disease does not manifest itself in the initial stages. Sources of viruses can be contaminated land, insects, low-quality seeds containing the virus.

A common virus is tomato mosaic, which is very dangerous for young plants. It appears on leaflets with a pronounced variegated mosaic color of light green and dark colors. With active development, deformation of the leaves of tomato seedlings begins. Sick seedlings should be removed. Seeds for sowing are recommended to be taken only from healthy plants and disinfected before planting. Growing seedlings at home are watered with a solution boric acid.

In the photo - tomato mosaic virus

Streak (roughness) tomatoes can be recognized by narrow and wide stripes of dying tissue on leaves, stems. With a strong lesion, the strips increase in size, turn into blurry spots, then merge, the leaves die off, in some cases the seedling dies completely. The streak virus is practically not treated; at the first detection of symptoms, diseased sprouts are removed, the soil mixture is sprayed with a dark solution of manganese.

Seedlessness (aspermia) visually expressed by the bushiness of the tomato and the frail thin stem, as well as the underdevelopment of individual ground parts. Flowers can grow together, grow smaller, change color, etc. Basically, the disease is carried by insects and infected plants growing in close proximity. When planting, pour the seedlings with a solution of magnesium permanganate, in the future keep the bed with tomatoes clean from weeds and disinfect the working equipment.

How to protect seedlings from bacterial infections?

Tomato black spot is considered the most dangerous bacterial disease. Bacteria are found in contaminated soil and diseased seed. The main cause of the onset of the disease are hot, dry weather and high humidity. Black spots form on the leaves of the stems, bacteria live in the seeds for up to a year.

It is typical for black spot that at one moment the seedlings wither, the disease may not manifest itself for a long time. It is hard to fight, it is better to prevent the disease than to cure later. Only healthy seeds are taken for planting, the soil must be dressed before sowing.

Among bacterial diseases, there is brown spotting, yellow spots will form on the leaves, and a small coating appears on the back of the leaves. Over time, the spots grow, affecting the leaf completely. Infection occurs through the soil, clothing, inventory. Follow the control measures - remove bad shoots, treat with fungicides containing copper ( blue vitriol, kuprosil).

Non-infectious diseases of tomatoes

In addition to common viruses, fungi, there are diseases that are associated with a lack or excess of nutrients, other reasons may be non-compliance with the agricultural practices of sowing and growing seedlings. How to determine what is missing tomatoes? Carefully inspect the seedlings to see the problem areas:

nitrogen deficiency in tomatoes

Phosphorus deficiency in tomatoes

Potassium deficiency in tomatoes

Tomatoes lack magnesium

iron deficiency in tomatoes

Boron deficiency in tomatoes

Sulfur deficiency in tomatoes

Manganese deficiency in tomatoes

• Nitrogen, - a deficiency is visually determined by pale green leaves with a yellowish tinge, a fragile trunk. With an excess of seedlings, fattening, increasing the green mass, thickening in size, flowering and fruiting is delayed;
• Phosphorus, - the leaf apparatus is dark green with a bluish tint, the growth of seedlings is dulled, premature shedding is characteristic. Due to the lack of phosphorus, tomato seedlings are more susceptible to fungal diseases, an excess leads to poor absorption of zinc and iron;
• Potassium - the leaves begin to turn yellow, turn brown, can twist, become wrinkled, weak flowering or absence appears. Excess manifests itself in inhibition of growth;
• Magnesium - yellow, light green leaves, sometimes with a reddish tint, yellowness appears between the veins;
• Iron - the veins of the foliage remain green, the leaves themselves turn yellow (lemon) starting from the base;
• Calcium - the tips of the young tops of the seedlings dry out, crocheted and die off, the old foliage becomes very green;
• Boron - the veins turn green, the leaves acquire a light green tint, become brittle. The tops of the seedlings may curl. The flowers fall off without producing fruit;
• Sulfur - slow growth, pale leaf color, thinning of the stem, which becomes brittle and brittle. Sulfur deficiency resembles nitrogen starvation, but the first signs are visible at the beginning on young leaves (with a lack of nitrogen, on the contrary);
• Copper - sluggish foliage that twists inward with a tube, turns white at the tips, the leaves become smaller and may have a blue-green tint;
• Manganese - leaves develop poorly, turn yellow at the base, mosaic-like spots form, veins of a non-uniform color.

Calcium deficiency in tomatoes

Copper deficiency in tomatoes

To help plants with a lack of nitrogen, seedlings are fertilized with urea (25-30 g / 10 l), potassium is restored with potassium nitrate (1 tbsp / bucket of water, using 0.5 l per adult sprout). With a lack of zinc and magnesium, foliar top dressing, by spraying the seedlings using zinc sulfate (1 tsp / 10 l) and magnesium nitrate (5 g / 10 l). Boron deficiency is easily replenished by spraying with a solution of boric acid (1/2 tsp / 5 l).

If you know what diseases of tomato seedlings can overcome plants during cultivation, you can timely eliminate the causes and carry out prevention, preventing neighboring shoots from being hit, and grow strong healthy tomatoes.

After planting the seeds, inexperienced gardeners can observe the following picture: the seedlings are very thin and grow higher and higher, and the root system is still weak. Why is this happening? Let's try to understand the reasons and correct the situation.

If the seedlings are stretched out - there are several ways to save the situation

Reasons for Pulling Tomatoes

If the seedlings are stretched, then you do not need to blame the wrong variety for this or look for other excuses. The reasons are pretty simple:

Greed. Not everyone has the opportunity to grow seedlings on spacious balconies, usually there are 2-3 windows. Therefore, the housewives do not spare the seeds, and plant them very densely. Such plants begin to grow in a dense forest, and each of them seeks to get a ray of light. As a result, tomatoes race towards the sun.

It is difficult to obtain high-quality seedlings from such elongated shoots.

It is better to plant fewer seeds to get strong and healthy bushes. From such tomatoes, the harvest will be much larger than from stunted sprouts.

Too much care. What includes caring for the plant - watering and top dressing. If you do this very often, then the bushes will quickly stretch. Water only when the soil is completely dry. If there is no strong heat, then after germination it is recommended not to water the sprouts for 10 days. Feeding should also be done carefully. It is very important not to feed nitrogen fertilizers. If this happens, then the sprouts will begin to "thicken" and this will not benefit the plant.

Each bush should have enough room to grow

It is fairly easy to identify overfed seedlings. The topmost small leaves begin to curl inward. With a strong overfeeding, the entire top will be twisted and dented.

Lack of light. In a poorly or rarely lit room, tomatoes will stretch upwards. Seedlings need to provide sixteen hour daylight hours.

Elongated seedlings fall from their own weight

Therefore, it is required to purchase fluorescent lamps. It is desirable to include them in the mornings and evenings.

thin seedling

If, nevertheless, the tomato seedlings stretched out, and it became thin, then you can use the following methods:

Planting tomatoes in the ground should occur with the deepening of the stems. This does not mean that the pits are dug deep, the landing "in a slope" should be studied. It is impossible to plant seedlings in depth, because the ground below is still cold and the roots can freeze. To begin with, grooves are formed that have a depth of 8–10 cm. Then they are filled with water and wait for complete absorption. Then the seedlings are laid out along the grooves so that the tops of the plants are at a distance of about 50 cm.

Planting tomatoes lying down is carried out with roots to the south

Roots must face south. In this case, the plant will straighten up faster, because it will begin to reach for the sun.

Strongly overgrown seedlings are divided into 2 parts. We count 5-6 leaves from the roots and cut off the remaining top. We put the cut part in a container with water. After 7 days, roots will appear on such plants. You should wait until they reach 1–1.5 cm, after which they can be planted in pots or boxes. This method allows not only to cope with the problem of elongated tomatoes, but also to get additional seedlings. The resulting plants are formed into one stem. On the lower part of the cut plant, we are waiting for the appearance of stepsons. They should grow up to 5 cm.

Planting deep to the first true leaf

20–25 days before planting in open ground, pruning of stepchildren begins. The top two stepchildren are left, and all the rest are removed.

Shortening seedlings before planting pushes back the first fruits

The plant has grown strongly, and there is still a lot of time before planting in open ground, then you can sprinkle. This can only be done when there is still plenty of room in the pot. Before powdering the new earth, the seedlings are not watered for several days.

1. After that, the withered tomato stalks are laid in a spiral along the contour of the pot. Each new turn is covered with earth. Most last layer compacted and watered abundantly.
2. With insufficient space in the pot, you can pick tomatoes in a container with a greater height. The trunk is not twisted, but simply covered with layers of soil. Each layer is watered abundantly.

Nitrogen deficiency is manifested by yellowing of the leaves

These two methods help you get rid of the problem. The recessed parts of the trunk will soon act as roots. As a result, the root system will be strengthened, and the tomatoes will receive additional nutrition.

Urea slows growth

Consider how watering can slow down the growth of a plant. If the plant begins to stretch and change its color, then this indicates that it does not have enough nitrogen. In this case, it is necessary to make a solution of urea. To do this, dilute 1 tablespoon of urea in 10 liters of water. The resulting solution should be watered all the seedlings. Further, all boxes with tomatoes are cleaned in a cool place so that the temperature is not higher than 8-10 degrees. After such a procedure, the seedlings will turn green again and slightly stop their growth.

Watering with urea slows down the growth of seedlings

A little about temperature

Temperature is very related to light. If there is a lot of light, then the temperature regime is allowed higher. Optimum temperature in good light is +25 degrees. But on cloudy days, + 18 degrees will be a favorable temperature regime. It is not advisable to fall below +17 degrees for the first time 3-4 weeks of growth. This can lead to the development of root rot. To insulate a cold window sill, you can put foam plastic under the boxes.

The temperature for seedlings should be at least 24 degrees

non-compliance temperature regime is the main reason for pulling tomatoes.

Lack of light leads to stretching of sprouts

It is especially common among vegetable growers growing seedlings in room conditions. After all, it is very difficult to achieve a certain temperature in an apartment without additional equipment.

Illumination of tomato seedlings should be at least 14 hours a day

There are three small tips that suggest applying experienced gardeners so that the plant does not grow quickly up:

• With the help of a cardboard box or just with your hand, we gently move the plant 2-3 times with gentle movements. Seedlings will be squat and strong. This is due to the fact that, as a result of touching, the leaves release ethylene gas, which stops the growth of plants. But this method is effective when there is enough light.

Quality seedlings - low, dense, green

• Five to six times a day, it is required to turn the pots or boxes so that the plant's forces are spent on turning in the sunny direction.
• It is advisable to immediately transplant the elongated sprouts separately, then they will stop their rapid growth.

To prevent tomato seedlings from stretching, you must follow all the above tips and rules. Only then can you get good results and satisfaction from your work.

Record How to water tomato seedlings and what to do so that it does not stretch? first appeared SeloMoe.

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Growing tomato seedlings is easy. Especially if you use our advice. Then you will definitely succeed!

When to sow tomato seeds

Everything is simple here. Sow tomato seeds like this:

• early tomatoes- 50 days before planting seedlings in open ground;
• late tomatoes - 60-70 days before planting in the ground.

By this time, add another 5-7 days for seed germination. That is, if you expect to plant early tomatoes in the garden on May 5-10, then subtract 50 days plus five days for germination. It turns out that the seeds need to be sown on March 15-20.

If the seedlings outgrow a little, it's not scary. It can be planted in the ground "lying".

Prepare the seeds for sowing

Before preparing the seeds, decide in advance which ones need to be processed and which ones do not. For example, imported seeds and hybrids are usually already prepared for sowing and coated with fungicides. Soaking will wash away protective layer- and the seeds will spoil. You can "shamanize" your seeds. That is, prepare a weak solution of potassium permanganate and lower wet seeds into it for 20-30 minutes. Soaking dry seeds in solutions is undesirable. After soaking, be sure to rinse them in clean water.

After the seeds, put on a damp cloth and leave in a saucer near the battery. Be careful! Moisten the napkin in time, otherwise the seeds will dry out and the sprouts will die. On the third or fifth day, the seeds will begin to germinate. Hatching can be sown, and unsprouted for 7-10 days, throw it away without pity. If they sprout, the plants will be weak and painful.

Prepare soil for seedlings

For soil for seedlings, you can dig up fertile land on the site and sow seeds in it. But this solution is not the best, since the earth changes greatly in volume when it dries, cracks and tears the roots. But if you add a little peat and sand to it, then the roots will not be damaged.

It is useful to spill the soil with a pink solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. After such a reception, the soil should still stand for a couple of days. And if you buy a wonderful drug Trichodermin, then apply it two weeks before sowing.

Suitable containers for seedlings

In stores you can find any container for seedlings. But remember that in cassettes for 20-30 days, plants must be fed with mineral fertilizers!

If it is not possible to feed every week, then use larger boxes or pots with a volume of more than 500 ml.

Sow tomato seeds

AT plastic cups must be done drainage holes. Pour expanded clay on the bottom and only then nutrient soil. For planting, make shallow holes (1-2 cm) and sow two seeds in them. Then leave the strong one, and remove the weak one. After sowing, gently moisten the soil with a spray bottle. Cover the container with foil and leave in a warm place until germination.

Until seedlings appear, water the soil only with a spray bottle. Otherwise, the seeds will go deep into the soil and may not sprout.

Advice from "Economy"

The soil brought from the street should warm up for 3-5 days, only then you can start sowing.

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