How to paint the ceiling with paint without streaks? We paint the ceiling with a “water emulsion”: from preparation to the last layer

ceiling painting

Each of us at least once in our lives thought about how to properly paint the ceiling. This type repair work is not very complicated, therefore, with certain skills and knowledge, you can refuse to attract labor and save a little. If you follow a certain sequence of operations and know the rules for organizing and implementing such an idea, the result will be the expected one.

How to paint - technology features

Experts are sure that the quality of finishing depends on the quality of the material. Choose good paint very important, however, that's not all. Obtaining a beautiful and durable coating depends on the correct choice of painting tools and careful adherence to repair technology.

Let's take a closer look at these three aspects.

Tool selection

You will need a lot of tools to get the job done. To paint the ceiling, you need a stable ladder and overalls - goggles and a helmet, as well as a wide paint brush. But the main part of the work is done with a roller, so the quality of work and the speed of repair depend on its correct choice. The question of how to paint the ceiling with a roller is very important. And that's why.

The wrong tool will hinder rather than help you work. Agree that drops from the ceiling, stains and shedding of bristly pile are unpleasant and, as a rule, cause negative emotions. However, this can be avoided at the initial stage.

Roll size and diameter

Roller range

Experts recommend paying special attention to the size and diameter of this tool. It all depends on the area of ​​work. The larger the ceiling plate, the wider the roller. But it is necessary to calculate own forces. It is easier for beginner painters to work with a small tool.

Note! At greater length the roller takes more paint, which means it becomes much heavier.

A small roller, the length of which is only 20 cm, is quite comfortable to hold on weight. For comparison, pick up a tool 30 cm long - it will be much heavier if you moisten it in paint. The painter's hand will quickly get tired, and work efficiency will drop. But for convenience, a long stick is attached to a large roller, then it will be possible to work with both hands. In addition, the stick will allow you to abandon the ladder, and you will not need to constantly climb on it and go down.

By realistically assessing your own strengths, you can easily make right choice. And one more circumstance. Often, when painting the ceiling, craftsmen encounter hard-to-reach places.

It is good if the ceiling design is simple and even. Then, in addition to the roller, you will have to purchase a wide brush that allows you to paint over the corners. And if the design is multi-level, and there are lighting boxes or visors on it, then small-sized rollers with a non-standard handle will come in handy. They are perfect for this kind of work.

Roller types

Varieties of material

Studying the assortment, you understand how great the variety of rollers is. A fur coat for him can be made:

1. Made from natural sheepskin.
2. Foam rubber.
3. Nylon plush.
4. Mohair, velor and polyamide.

Which to choose? It all depends on what kind of paint you decide to paint the ceiling. For oil materials and enamels, rollers with a fur coat made of velor and mohair are perfect. Differences between faux fur and synthetic in this case is not, therefore, for one-time work, you can purchase cheaper options - polyamide rollers. However, if the amount of work is large, then natural fur coats are more preferable.

Note! Velor rollers absorb a lot of paint, so they will often have to be dipped in a tray. But the quality of the layer is beyond doubt. The velor roller applies the paint evenly, so that the layer is very smooth.

MATRIX Velor

Experienced painters prefer to use polyamide tools. He copes with the tasks set perfectly and does not leave villi on the surface. A polyamide coat lasts for a long time, but you need to remember that such a roller leaves a lot of splashes. Therefore, it will be difficult for an inexperienced master to work with such a tool.

As for natural sheepskin, such a fur coat is ideal for painting work, but it is very expensive. It can and should be chosen in order to paint over the relief texture. It is easier for a roller of such a plan to penetrate into existing irregularities, which makes it possible to paint over a rough surface well. The principle of choice in this case is the same - the more complex the relief, the longer the pile of the fur coat should be.

What are foam rollers for? For work with primers and water-based paints. Such a tool is the most affordable, but its service life is very short.

Summarizing all that has been said, several conclusions can be drawn.

Some Conclusions

Splash protection

• The choice of coat material depends on the type of paint.
• When purchasing a tool, do not forget to check its quality. The roller should look secure - no protruding threads and unfinished seams. The seam on the fur coat should be straight, smooth and even. Otherwise, during operation, such a roller will leave stripes.
• Do not save on buying a quality tool, because the result of the work largely depends on it. The best is considered a roller with a long pile. And the rougher the surface, the longer the pile should be.
• By choosing suitable model, try to squeeze the roller with force - it should not be deformed. Pull the pile of the fur coat - if there are any piles left in your hands, put the model aside.

And the last. In addition to the roller, brushes may also be needed. Their choice is also not easy. A quality tool has a conical shape. It is she who allows you to evenly distribute the paint in hard-to-reach places, which is extremely important when painting corners.

Note! For ceilings complex design may need different brushes. Tapered ones will help to paint over the corners, and wide ones will allow you to paint over the lines connecting walls and ceilings.

We figured out the tools, now let's talk about the choice of colors.

Ceiling paints - features of choice

Color palette

Not everyone knows what paint is better to paint the ceiling, and what materials exist today. The construction market is characterized by a wide range of water-based paints. All of them have different technical features and characteristics.

1. Acrylic latex.
2. silicate.
3. Silicone paints.

Which ones are better? A detailed analysis of their characteristics will help answer the question.

Acrylic Latex Paints

These materials are the most popular and in demand. And all because they are very convenient to work with. Both acrylic and latex are special ingredients that are added to regular water-based bases. Acrylic increases the durability of the coating, which is able to maintain its novelty and originality for a long 10 years.

Latex paint

Latex adds plasticity and water resistance to the paint. Modern acrylic latex materials are more resistant to abrasion than conventional water-based emulsion. At the same time, they have excellent vapor-permeable properties that allow the surface to “breathe”. Acrylic latex paints can be diluted with water and add color to them, achieving desired color, creating interesting overflows and enhancing decorative effect coatings. These additives are environmentally friendly, do not affect human health, which is their main advantage.

Acrylic and latex paints dry quickly, so the second coat can be applied literally a few hours after the first. This greatly simplifies repairs and saves time. While the paint dries, midges will not be able to stick to it, or dust will settle. When applying several layers at once, there is no need to be afraid of the formation of blisters and bubbles, since the uppermost layers allow air to pass through them. Fresh drops, streaks and stains are easily removed with a damp cloth, and the dried layer is resistant to abrasion and retains its color for a long time without fading in the sun. Acrylic latex paints are odorless and can be applied to any surface.

But this material also has disadvantages:

painted ceiling

1. If there is high humidity in the room, acrylic latex paints will be an excellent basis for the formation of mold.
2. Such material quickly loses its attractiveness at too low temperatures.
3. It will be very difficult to get rid of the old coating, so for cosmetic repairs ceiling, these materials are not rational to use.
4. A variety of latex paints to some extent can also be attributed to the minuses.

And that's why. Only specialists are able to understand the features of the use of acrylic, vinyl, dense, textured and non-drip bases. It is difficult for a simple layman to learn that they are all designed for different jobs.

Therefore, giving preference to acrylic latex paints, do not hesitate to ask the sales consultants the right questions. They will tell you that it is better to choose vinyl paints for wall decoration, dense paints for ceilings, pure latex paints for wallpaper painting, and texture paints for creating a relief pattern. Acrylic materials are ideal for woodworking, and dripless materials are ideal for working with cracks and bumps.

Thus, acrylic latex paints are good where major repairs are being carried out, and it is necessary to create a surface resistant to dirt in conditions of a high humidity threshold. For finishing bathrooms and pools, for painting the ceiling in saunas and bath complexes, it is better to choose silicate or silicone materials.

Silicate paints - advantages and disadvantages

silicate paint

Silicate paints are materials created on the basis of potash liquid glass, water and coloring pigments. A small amount of a special polymer is also added to the composition, which allows to increase the shelf life of the paint. This material is used for painting surfaces that have a mineral base. It is chosen in order to paint over a ceiling treated with mineral putty or previously painted with limestone, cement or mineral paint.

The advantages of such materials include good vapor permeability. The surface treated with silicate paints "breathes", so moisture evaporates quickly. The basis of the material is unfavorable for the development of pathogenic microorganisms, therefore, before painting, the surface of the ceiling does not need to be additionally treated with an antiseptic.

Silicate paints create a smooth matte surface, very smooth to the touch. The ceiling painted by them can be easily washed with a damp cloth.

Note! Silicate paints are divided into ordinary and moisture resistant. For painting the ceiling in the bathroom, it is better to choose the latter. When buying, it is important to pay attention to the consumption of material, since different types of it have different properties. They will have to paint the surface of the ceiling twice.

It is important to know that when choosing silicate paints, foam rubber rollers should not be used. The next layer of material is applied only when the previous one is completely dry. Layers are applied in a strictly perpendicular direction to each other. The latter is superimposed on the side opposite from the window, and the previous one lies across. Silicate paints must dry without drafts and bright colors. sun rays. Otherwise, the finish will be of poor quality.

There is only one drawback of silicate paints - they are inelastic, so it is extremely problematic to paint cracks or potholes with them. This means that before performing finishing repairs, the surface will need to be more carefully prepared and leveled.

silicone paints

Roller with long handle

Silicone paints are ideal for interior decoration with high humidity. They differ from the materials already listed in that special silicone resins are added to the base of the water emulsion. Like silicate materials, silicone materials have good vapor permeability, but are hydrophobic, which prevents the adjacent surface from getting wet.

After drying of such paints, a strong film is formed that does not deform the substrate. Therefore, you can safely choose silicone materials for painting plastered surfaces.

Unlike acrylic, silicone is not thermoplastic, so when the surface temperature rises, the paint layer will not soften. The material practically does not get dirty, and little dust accumulates on it, because silicone resins have a neutral electrical charge. But experts consider the main advantage of such paint to be resistance to alkalis. And the only drawback is the high cost of the material.

Where and how are silicone paints used? Most often they are used to repair the facades of buildings. The material prevents the reproduction of various microorganisms and provides a durable, reliable and very aesthetic coating that perfectly tolerates the vagaries of nature.

You can work with such material without observing the rules and safety standards. Indeed, unlike silicate paints, it is not aggressive. Experts consider it a reasonable choice of silicone materials for painting ceilings inside the building. But it is advisable to use them only in those rooms where the ceilings are exposed to heightened impact moisture.

Note! On sale today you can find acrylic and latex paints, which contain silicone resins. However, experts do not recommend the use of such formulations. Practice has shown that the less properties a material has, the higher its reliability and strength. Paints based on pure silicone resins have the highest consumer properties.

Painting technology

Surface cleaning

So, we figured out the principles by which tools and paints are chosen, so you can proceed to the question of how to paint the ceiling correctly.

The painting technology consists of several stages:

1. Foundation preparation.
2. Ceiling primer.
3. Working with corners.
4. Ceiling painting.
5. Error correction.

Before starting work, the room must be completely freed from furniture - everything that can and cannot be taken out must be carefully covered with polyethylene. If floor repair is not planned, it is worth taking care of the protection of the floor covering. It also needs to be covered with a film or old newspapers and magazines. You can use rags or sheets, which you will not be sorry to collect and throw away later.

Then you should remove all lighting fixtures and de-energize the room. Cover with masking tape those areas that need to be protected from paint. Before starting work, experts advise making sure that the purchased material is enough to finish the intended ceiling area. It is very easy to calculate the consumption - as a rule, the initial data are indicated on the packaging. Lack of material can lead to a poor quality and non-uniform coating.

And the last. The packaging always indicates the recommended temperature at which paintwork can be carried out using a particular material. It is worth taking this circumstance into account.

Foundation preparation

Surface priming

It is impossible to apply a new layer of paint without first preparing the base. This will cause the layers to begin to crumble quickly. To avoid this, you will have to carefully prepare the ceiling plate.

First, with a spatula, the old layer of paint is removed, and the whitewash is simply washed off. If necessary, the sanded ceiling is repaired, cracks and potholes are covered and leveled with a finishing layer of putty.

Ceiling primer

To reduce paint consumption and ensure its better adhesion to the base, the ceiling slab is pre-primed. If this is not done, when applying a layer of paint, the plate will instantly absorb moisture from it, thereby causing the layer to dry out.

The paint will not be able to stay on the surface for a long time and will begin to crumble quickly. After applying the primer, the substrate must dry well. Then the darkest spots of the base are painted over, and when they dry, the ceiling is primed again and allowed to dry. Only after that you can paint the entire canvas.

Note! When priming, no excess material should remain on the ceiling. Therefore, it is recommended to control the work with the primer.

Working with corners

Corner priming

The one who starts painting the ceiling from the corners farthest from the entrance does the right thing. To do this, use a tufted brush. The paint is collected at its very end and then carefully rubbed into the base of the corner. Then, with a wide brush, the first strip from the wall is painted over, since the edge of the roller does not cope well with this task. Paint with a brush is first applied to the ceiling, and then gently rubbed along the entire length.

Do not spare paint and even paint over the place that will then hide under the ceiling cornice. This will achieve a smooth, even and consistent finish.

Painting the main surface of the ceiling

After the far corners are painted over, you can proceed to the next step - working with the roller. To begin with, the coat of the tool is thoroughly saturated with paint. To do this, you do not need to completely dip the “drum”, but you can grind it on the cuvette tray using a small amount of paint. Spinning the roller prevents the formation of streaks, which means it saves material.

Note! The roller should be saturated evenly. If excess paint needs to be removed, use a wide brush.

Applying paint with a brush

The movements of the roller should be the same, and the paint should be applied evenly and not too thickly. Therefore, periodically you need to lower the tool into the cuvette and act confidently, making intense sweeping movements.

If the paint is too thick or thin, unsightly streaks form, so it is important to mix the material correctly, as indicated on the package. And if such defects are found, immediately eliminate the slip and repaint the defective strip.

Note! The paint is applied in stripes parallel to each other. The width is chosen so that the edge of the fresh layer does not have time to dry out. Each subsequent strip overlaps the previous one. Experts recommend sometimes getting off the ladder and looking at the result of the work from a different angle. This makes it easy to spot unpainted areas.

During operation, it is better to curtain the windows with dark rags and try to completely protect the room from drafts. In no case should heating devices be used to speed up drying - they will provoke overdrying of the finish layer.

Work on mistakes

After the layers of paint are completely dry, it is worth inspecting the work during the daytime - this will help identify existing defects.

What can be found?

Roll direction

1. Roller marks that remain after improper shading. Troubleshooting is easy. It is enough to rub the area with sandpaper and paint over it again.
2. Joints between painted areas. They are formed when the repair technology is not followed. There is only one way to eliminate them - to clean the ceiling, prime it and paint it properly.
3. Too noticeable streaks are formed when the paint is poorly mixed before work. The defect is eliminated in the same way as traces from the roller - the defective area is cleaned with sandpaper and repainted.
4. Wrinkles on the ceiling appear when too thick a layer of paint is applied. They are removed using the same technology as the stripes.
5. Stains after painting on the ceiling do not always appear, but quite often. main reason their occurrence - poor-quality initial work. There may have been tar or grease on the ceiling. If you apply another layer of paint, the situation will only get worse. Therefore, the problem area is cleaned of the already applied material, treated with special acidic compounds or alkali, primed and repainted.

Generalization on the topic

Many people think that painting the ceiling on their own is very simple. I took a roller, paint and worked for several minutes. But everything is not as it seems at first glance. After all, the quality of work depends on several factors. Important to choose right tool, purchase desired paint capable of withstanding functional purpose rooms, and besides, observe all the stages of repair technology.

Working on mistakes will help you gain experience, so the main advice for those who decide for the first time to implement the plan on their own is to practice painting the ceiling in a small technical room and then move on to work in the living room or bedroom.

The most common way to decorate a ceiling is to whitewash or paint it. And the most used paint for this is water-based. Painting the ceiling with water-based paint at first glance seems to be a simple matter, but there are many subtleties, ignorance of which leads to spots or stripes. How to avoid the appearance of such a nuisance, we will tell further.

Preparing for painting

To self-painting ceiling with water-based paint was of high quality and uniform, preliminary preparation of the ceiling is necessary. It is possible to achieve uniform coloring only on a flat, puttied surface. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to clean the ceiling from any previous coating (with the exception of a water-based emulsion, which holds very well).

How to remove whitewash

If you have whitewash on the ceiling - chalk or lime - you need to moisten the ceiling with water, and remove the coating with a spatula. Clean everything down to concrete. Even the smallest fragments must be removed. Sometimes it is very inconvenient to scrape small areas with a spatula, it is easier to do it with a wet rag.

In any case, after removing the whitewash, the ceiling must be washed with water detergent. After complete drying- primed and puttied with gypsum or cement (preferably white) putty to an even state, which is also called “under the egg”.

How to remove old water emulsion

If the ceiling has already been painted with a water-based emulsion, simply removing it will not work. The procedure depends on how the paint holds on the ceiling. If it just changed color and you need to update the ceiling, there are no swellings, cracks and other similar problems, you can get by with a little bloodshed. First - remove dust (with a cloth with water), dry, then primed. After the primer dries, you can paint. But once again we pay attention - this procedure is used only if the water emulsion is holding well and there are no defects.

Cleaning waterproof water-based emulsion from the ceiling is still a pleasure

If there are cracks, swellings on the surface of the water-based emulsion, it must be cleaned off. There are two ways - dry and wet. Dry - this is to clean with sandpaper (manually or with using angle grinder), wet - rinse. This method has to be used for paint that is not afraid of water. But it is very difficult to clean off such paint. If the water-based paint holds well, no tricks help, but there are surface defects and putty is necessary, take coarse-grained sandpaper and make the surface rough. After that, you can putty. Further - according to technology: primer and then paint.

The ceiling painted with a water-based emulsion is washed off twice abundantly wetting with hot water. The water should be almost boiling water - about 70°C. After wetting part of the ceiling, wait 10 minutes, then again moisten the same area with hot water. After about five minutes, you can remove the paint with a spatula.

Removing old paint is a lengthy process

You can repeat this procedure several times, gradually removing lagging paint from the ceiling. Small residues can be cleaned with sandpaper, and then rinsed the ceiling, dried and primed. On the primer, it is already possible to putty, sand, leveling the imperfections.

Types of water-based paint

Water-based paint is a water-based emulsion that contains polymer particles undissolved in water. The composition also includes pigments and various additives that change the characteristics of the final product. After applying the paint, active evaporation of water occurs and a thin polymer film remains on the surface.

Painting the ceiling with water-based paint begins with the choice of composition. They use four types of polymers:

• Acrylic. Aqueous emulsion based on acrylic resins allows you to get a smooth surface, has good hiding power, hides small surface defects, up to cracks up to 1 mm wide. Its disadvantage is the high price, but it is easier to work with it. In its pure form, acrylic compounds are hygroscopic and can only be used for dry rooms, but they do not interfere with the passage of steam. To create a waterproof film, latex is added to the acrylic emulsion. The same additive increases the elasticity of the dried film. Such compositions can be used in wet rooms.

  

  Water emulsion on acrylic base- smart choice

• silicates. This type of water-based paint is based on liquid glass. The coating is resistant to atmospheric precipitation and at the same time does not prevent the removal of vapors, has a long service life (10 years or more), and can be used for outdoor work.

  

  Silicate paints are vapor-tight

• Minerals - lime or cement. Mineral water-based emulsions have good adhesion to any surface, but are quickly washed off. As a result, they are gradually losing popularity.

  

• Silicone. Silicone-based aqueous emulsions are the latest in industry. These compositions are good because they "tighten" cracks up to 2 mm thick. As a result, the surface painted by them, even without excellent preparation, is even and smooth. The film is dense, but vapor-permeable. Silicone water emulsion can be used to paint the ceiling in bathrooms and other wet areas. The disadvantage of this type of paint is the high price.

  

Latex may be added to any of the formulations. Latex water-based paint is water-repellent. It is not afraid of moisture, can be used in wet areas.

Based on the main characteristics of these compositions, you can choose for yourself best type water-based paint. Each case requires its own properties and the “best water emulsion” is different each time.

What primer to use

The primer is necessary for better adhesion (adhesion) of the paint to the surface to be painted. It allows you to avoid the appearance of cracks and swelling after the paint dries. If there is no primer, this can happen. Everything will have to be cleaned and re-puttyed. Because in order for the painting of the ceiling with water-based paint to be of high quality, it is necessary to prime the surface well.

The base of the primer must match the base paint. Under acrylic paint, a water-based emulsion requires the same primer, under silicone - based on silicones, etc. Moreover, it is advisable not to save: the quality of this composition depends on how smoothly the water emulsion will lie on the ceiling.

There is an economical way of priming: the main paint is diluted with water (1 to 2) and the surface is painted over with this composition a couple of times. It's certainly better than nothing, but the primer gives a more secure grip.

How to paint the ceiling with a water-based emulsion with your own hands

Each of the water-based paints on the bank has instructions for use. It describes how it works. Some formulations just need to be stirred well before work: undissolved polymers can settle at the bottom of the jar. Some formulations require dilution. The amount of water added is also prescribed in the instructions and depends on the method of application. Under spray guns, they are bred more strongly; when using a roller, thicker compositions are required.

When diluting the water emulsion with water, it must be added in small portions. After mixing thoroughly, test on a surface area. If the paint lays down evenly, almost completely paints over the base, you can paint.

It is more convenient to pour the paint into a special container with a tray and a ribbed platform. You can use an ordinary bowl and a clean piece of oilcloth spread nearby. It's not as convenient, but it's less expensive.

Which roller to choose

A roller for painting the ceiling with a water-based emulsion is needed with a dense short pile. You need to examine it carefully. The pile should “sit” firmly and in no case should it “climb out”, even if you pull on it. Then look at how the seam is made. In no case should it stand out. It must be hard to find. It is best if it is made obliquely.

Devote maximum attention to choosing a roller: the quality of painting - the absence of stripes on the ceiling - largely depends on how good you have chosen the tool. It is more convenient to whitewash the ceiling with a water-based emulsion not from a ladder, but from the floor. To do this, the roller is planted on a long handle and well fixed.

How to paint without streaks

To avoid streaks on the ceiling, painting the ceiling with water-based paint should be completed no later than 20 minutes. Immediately after application, water begins to actively absorb / evaporate, and stripes appear at the junction of the dried and “fresh” color. Therefore, it is desirable to prepare the room. It is necessary to turn off (wrap) the radiators, to prevent the appearance of a draft. It is also advisable to wash the floor immediately before whitewashing, even if you work during the day, turn on the lights, this will allow you to better control the quality of the painting. After that, you can get to work.

Ready-to-use water-based paint is poured into a container, a roller is dipped into it, then it is well rolled over the site, achieving uniform distribution over the entire surface. When the roller has a solid color, they begin to paint.

The corners are painted over with the first brush. After applying a little paint, take a small roller and roll it well. Then they begin to paint the main surface. The first layer is applied parallel to the window, the second - perpendicularly.

It is necessary to stand so as to look at the painted place at an angle. This will give you a good view of how evenly the paint has spread, as well as where you have already painted and where you haven't. Move systematically, without jumping from one piece to another.

The width of the strip to be painted at a time is slightly larger than the width of the roller. After wetting the roller, place it approximately in the middle of the strip. Roll the paint quickly in both directions from one wall to the other. Don't waste too much time, you don't have much. On average, the water emulsion dries up in 10-20 seconds. We didn’t have time to put a strip next to it before - the border will be clearly visible, from which you will not get rid of. Having distributed the paint more or less evenly over the strip, dip the roller into the paint, and again roll it from the middle of the ceiling. At the same time, go into the already painted strip by about 10 cm. All this at a good pace without stops and smoke breaks. The edges of the dyed strip should not dry out. In general, these are all the rules.

After applying the first coat of paint, some places may be less well painted over. It is necessary to wait for complete drying, and paint a second time. This should already be enough to get a flat surface. If even after the third layer of water-based paint you have stripes and stains on the ceiling, you will have to redo it again. It is necessary to level the surface with sandpaper, prime again and paint again.

Which color

The easiest way to achieve perfect evenness of color is when using "snow white" paint. All pigments clearly highlight even small irregularities, so the process should be given maximum attention or use an acrylic or silicone-based water-based emulsion.

Finishing the ceiling is the main stage of repair, which is quite laborious, especially if you introduce complex design elements into it. However, even a simple painting of the ceiling will be a great addition to the overall design and will not take much time.

The dilemma of choosing tools for painting the ceiling is the first stage of repair. So what is better to paint the ceiling: with a brush or roller?

A few characteristics and advantages of each tool:

• If you have a big front of work, then here better fit a roller that will do all the work faster and better than a paint brush.
• With a brush, you can paint over the joints, however, working with this tool is physically more difficult. The roller can be used while standing in one place.
• Brushes do not require additional maintenance, and rollers should be kept in a special container that will protect them from drying out and damage.
• Painting the ceiling will be easier, since this tool (if it is of high quality) does not leave lint on the surface, and the brush is not protected from this.

In any case, when deciding which roller is better to choose for painting the ceiling, you should stock up on a couple or three brushes that can be used to paint over joints, corners and other small objects.

How to paint the ceiling with a roller: the process step by step

Painting the ceiling with a roller is not a very laborious process, since with a skillful approach and preparation, all finishing work can be completed in 2-3 hours. How to properly paint the ceiling with a roller - you can watch the video and painting tricks below if you decide to carry out this procedure yourself.

Painting the ceiling, in addition to the roller, will not do without such tools:

• Paints of the desired shade;
• paint roller;
• Finishing brushes;
• Containers for mixing paint;
• Napkins for cleaning.

Painting ceilings with rollers is divided into several stages. First of all, in order to properly paint the ceiling with a roller, you should clean the working area, wipe and dry.

1. Application of a primer that has a transparent texture and improves the adhesion area of ​​the paint to the ceiling. The primer can also be applied with a roller;
2. The next to work is a roller for water-based paint for the ceiling. It is dipped in paint, after which it should be rolled a little on the surface so that excess paint is absorbed into the tool itself.
3. Painting should be done smoothly and without unnecessary movements in order to paint the ceiling without streaks with a roller, which is very simple to do. The paint is applied in one layer, then it is better to let it dry and apply a second. So the coating will be more uniform, and paint consumption is much less. All corners are painted over with a brush, as it is more convenient for performing these procedures.

The most important trick in painting the ceiling with a roller is that each subsequent layer should be applied directly perpendicular to the previous one - this way the paint will lie more evenly and the joints will not be so visible.

What kind of roller to paint the ceiling with water-based paint

Choosing a universal ceiling paint roller is not an easy task, and the variety of these tools can be confusing for everyone. Manufacturers even came up with the names of each model, a certain length of pile and a classification for paint rollers for painting the ceiling.

Namely:

• Rollers of universal type;
• Specialized rollers;
• Rollers for simple, finishing works;
• Rollers for a certain type of paint.

Each of these rollers has both similarities and differences. Experts will easily give you an answer to any question of interest.

The first thing to decide is the scope of work. If you need to paint a large area, then it is better to choose a roller with a long pile, which absorbs more paint and allows you to make this process faster. For less paint consumption and better distribution over the ceiling, it is necessary to prime the surface. After that, the use of a roller for painting a ceiling with a long pile will be more rational.

What rollers are better to use for painting a ceiling with bumps? Here again, a roller with a long pile will come to the rescue, with which you can mask minor imperfections on surfaces.

A short-haired roller can be used if the application of color will take place on wallpaper or a plastered, smooth surface. In this case, there is a short pile roller, which makes the paint layer thinner.

The length of the pile of the ceiling roller is the main indicator, the choice of which determines the quality of the final result and the evenness of applying the paint itself to the ceiling.

Important! It is best to choose rollers from natural materials- they do not leave unwanted air bubbles on the paint and do not litter with villi that will be visible after drying.

The length of the roller for painting the ceiling is selected individually - the wider and longer the roller, the faster the painting process will be, but it will be easier for a beginner to work with a shorter roller - it glides over the surface faster and more agile, and it is also easier for them to adjust the pressure so as not to leave splits and inconsistencies. The final result directly depends on the quality of the roller and the analysis of the surface.

Painting ceilings with acrylic paint with a roller: tricks and life hacks

So how to qualitatively paint the ceiling with a roller and make it as easy as possible for everyone? There are some simple, old-fashioned tips that will help you paint the ceiling with a roller without unnecessary stress.

Simply and easily:

• The first thing you need to know is the mandatory distribution of paint over the roller. After you have dipped it in the paint, you need to roll it a couple of times on any test surface to get the paint deeper.
• The second is the application of the paint itself. The movements should be as smooth as possible and create an imaginary letter "W", and every second layer should overlap the first one perpendicularly.
• It is better to paint over all junctions and hard-to-reach corners with a brush - it will more quickly and accurately carry out this process.
• It is better to store the roller in a closed container so that it does not dry out and is not damaged. After use, the roller must be washed in a special solution to remove paint residues from it.

Painting the ceiling with a roller: tricks (video)

Rollers have long been included in the field of repair and strengthened in it, as painting work with rollers is carried out twice as easy and faster. Ceiling painting is a laborious and precise process, that's why it is the roller that is the very couple - the lifesaver that will help you create an incredible design of your ceiling - even and smooth, which will delight you for many years!

Do-it-yourself ceiling repair, or how to paint it correctly

The ceiling is not happy with its whiteness? Are there cracks at the seams? Let's find out how to level it (putty), how to properly repair rusts (seams) and of course how to paint it...

Stages of work in the repair and painting of the ceiling

For repairs, you will need the following tools and materials:

• Spatula narrow (overlay)

• Spatula wide 45 cm

• Rectangular brush

• Roller polyacrylic seamless pile thickness 11 mm

• Roller extension (handle)

• Ladder

• Paint bucket

• Mixer (drill with a nozzle for preparing a solution)

• Gypsum-based plaster

• Finishing dry putty

• Water-based paint

• Serpyanka mesh (for reinforcing seams)

• Impregnation primer

Preparation for repair

Consider repairing a ceiling made of concrete slabs. The first step is to prepare for the repair.

The room is freed from furniture as far as possible, lighting fixtures (chandelier, lamps) are removed.

In place of the chandelier, it is necessary to fix a cartridge with a powerful lamp.

The floor and the remaining furniture are covered with a film, a big mistake of many is the use of old newspapers, the fact is that wet newspapers with paint that has fallen on them or washed off chalk from the ceiling begin to stick to the feet, turning movement around the room into a completely unnecessary pandemonium.

Scraping off the surface of old paint or chalk

How the ceiling is prepared depends on how the new coating will hold.
If the surface was previously covered with chalk, it must be cleaned to concrete slab.

To do this, typing in a bucket of warm water, using a roller, soak a small section of the ceiling.

If necessary, soaking is carried out several times.

Once the chalk layer is wet, it can be scraped off with a narrow spatula, thus clearing the entire surface area.

If the ceiling was covered with water-based paint, in any case, it is necessary to go over the entire surface with a roller with hot water and check if the old paint has begun to lag somewhere.

All areas of peeling or blistering paint must be sanded to the ground.

The joints of the plates require special attention. Seams with cracks that have appeared must be expanded (expanded) and cleaned to a concrete base.

Paint or chalk along the seam must be removed very carefully without leaving uncleaned places.

Primer

Covering the ceiling with primer is necessary for better adhesion of the applied plaster and putty and less moisture absorption.

Choose your soil carefully! The primer for the ceiling should be absorbed into the base and bind dusty fractions of chalk, plaster and concrete, should not create films on the surface (when buying, pay attention to the instructions, the primer should not be film-forming, but impregnating!)

With the help of a roller, the main area is primed, and in inaccessible places (seams, corners, fallen plaster), it is necessary to apply the primer with a brush.

After application, the primed surface must be allowed to dry for 2-3 hours.

Rust plaster (ceiling seams)

All plaster fragments that have fallen out and embroidered during the preparation process must be restored. It is also possible to seal the seams completely, which will visually turn the ceiling into one whole and even slab.

Previously, using a brush or spray gun, the seams are wetted with water, after which a gypsum plaster mixture is applied to them. In the process of sealing the seams, you need to try to get the mixture as deep as possible into the inside of the seam. For this, an overlay and a wide spatula are used.

Directly along the seam, in the thickness of the plaster, it is necessary to stick a fiberglass tape (serpyanka mesh). The mesh subsequently prevents plaster fragments from falling out.

Lay the seam plaster mixture it is necessary so that the edges of the two plates are not visually determined. If necessary, it is better to divide the application of plaster on the seam into several stages with obligatory intermediate drying.

Remember that applying an excessively thick layer of plaster to the ceiling increases the possibility of it peeling off the base and falling down. Because plaster is heavy, falling pieces of plaster can be life-threatening.

Ceiling putty

For puttying, you can use dry mineral putties diluted with water. Puttying is carried out using a wide spatula in two stages, in two layers with intermediate drying from 4 to 24 hours.

The first layer is applied as a leveling layer, it covers all defects and transitions between the plaster and the base.

The second layer is easier to apply, as the putty is applied to an already puttied surface, the adhesion of which allows the second layer to be applied thinner and even more evenly.

The second layer should be applied as evenly as possible and not leave transitions between layers and traces of the spatula.

The junction of the ceiling and wall must be aligned so that their junctions are straight.

To mask the joints of the ceiling and walls, you can use a ceiling plinth (fillet). On the market building materials they have quite a selection.

You should be aware that the uneven joints of the walls and ceiling in the form of waves need to be eliminated.

Since later, when gluing the plinth, the following difficulties may arise:

• Fillet can highlight unevenness even more
• Wide fillet when glued, will not adhere to the ceiling or wall

How to glue the ceiling plinth with your own hands can be found in the material presented below

How to glue a plinth (fillet)

Surface sanding

To eliminate defects from putty, it is necessary to sand the ceiling with sandpaper and a bar.

Do not use very coarse sandpaper, as the marks from coarse paper may be visible even after painting.

For achievement best quality and eliminating even the smallest defects, it is advisable to use a spotlight or a lamp with directional light.

The light source should be placed as close as possible to the ceiling, and the light stream should be directed to the checked place from the side.

It is possible that many defects not seen before will be discovered. Without checking with a lamp, such defects usually become noticeable after painting, for example, in bright sunny weather.

Identification of putty defects on the surface

Examining the surface step by step with the help of light, the detected defects are sanded out (partial puttying of places where there is nothing to sand is possible). After the process of polishing the ceiling, it may have color heterogeneity, but it must be smooth.

Re-priming

The plastered ceiling must be primed. A layer of primer will provide better adhesion of the ceiling to the paint and reduce its consumption, since the absorption of the base after the primer will decrease.

Internal corners at the junction of the ceiling and walls very often add problems after the appearance of cracks on them. Fillets glued around the perimeter or (plinth) will help to avoid this.

It is more correct to install the fillets after puttying the walls and ceiling. Fillets are painted together with the ceiling and are one with the canvas.

ceiling painting

Usually, a paint roller is used for painting. In rare cases, professional painters use a compressor and spray gun.

When choosing a paint roller, first of all, you need to pay attention to the length of the pile.

Roller with long pile- allows you to cover the existing bumps and shells with paint, such a roller makes a "shagreen" which, in turn, hides minor defects.
Paint consumption when using such a roller is the largest.

Medium pile roller- the golden mean when painting conventional ceiling, it gives a small shagreen and covers small shells in the surface.

Roller with very fine pile- designed to create a smooth surface. Such a roller can only be used on even, almost ideal surfaces without flaws. Such a roller will not block sinks and risks in putty.

Before using any paint, you must read the instructions for it!

It should be understood that all paints are different, and require different conditions and technologies in their application.

Can be used to paint the ceiling water-based paints, which are represented in great abundance by our retailers.

Before painting with a roller, it is necessary to take the corners with paint, paint the fillets, and take them around the chandelier.

For this, a brush is used, which is carried out so that there are no traces of pile, stains and unpainted places.

With a brush, it is necessary to paint over the entire perimeter of the junction of the ceiling with the wall to a width of about 5 cm.

Painting with a roller begins along the wall with a window, the roller is led along the ceiling from wall to wall, strip by strip, moving across the room and overlapping the previous one by half with a new strip. This is how the whole canvas goes.

When picking up paint on a roller, you do not need to take a lot of it, the paint will be evenly distributed on the roller if it is rolled along the wall of the bucket.

If too much paint has come out from the edges of the roller on the surface to be painted, we try to roll it immediately and not leave it to dry.

It is forbidden long time roll the roller in the same place!

This is fraught with soaking putty with subsequent destruction of the coating.

After applying the first layer of paint, it is necessary to dry it, in no case should drafts be arranged to speed up the drying of the paint.

Rapid drying of the paint may cause cracking and peeling of the new coating.

The second layer is applied in the same way as the first. The second coat usually takes less paint than the first.

For sticking, a conventional water-based emulsion dries in about 1 - 2 hours, and the final drying and polymerization of the paint occurs in about 12-24 hours. These parameters must be read in the instructions for the paint.

If a previously unnoticed defect was discovered during the painting process, you can locally apply a small layer of putty directly to the defect.

Putty is applied only on dried paint.

After that, it is necessary to let the putty dry, sand the repair site if necessary, and then paint this place with a roller.

Painting over the place of repair and stepping over its edges a little. When touching up, it is necessary to use the same paint that covers the main area.

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	Tell me, how much putty, for example, vetonite, is needed to prepare for painting a concrete ceiling. The ceiling is coming solid slab, without seams, seemingly even.
	I'm sorry, I forgot the main thing :) the ceiling area is 17.5 m2
	If you putty in two layers, then kg15 should be enough. Sometimes the ceiling is even but has large pores, such pores can only be covered with thick layers. So look, take a bag of Vetonite, if it remains, it will never be superfluous to walk along the walls near the ceiling.
	Hello! After the sandpaper and primer, they glued the wallpaper to the ceiling, painted the super white Tex paint in 4 layers. It’s clean without light, and in the evening you can see the stains. What should I do? Can I paint another paint again?
	For Alena Hello! Are you sure you don't have blemishes? Four layers, even if not very opaque paint, should cover the entire ceiling and create a uniform coating of the same color :) Seemingly unpainted places sometimes turn out to be uneven after putty (pit) in daylight they are not visible, but in the light coming from a chandelier or lamp (close to the ceiling) they appear. It is very easy to check this, in the evening when you see defects on the ceiling, try to illuminate them as if from the floor. If they disappear when you hover the light, then this is the unevenness of the ceiling. If all the same these are unpainted areas, you can paint again but let the old coating stand for 2-3 days. During this time, the old coating polymerizes. A new layer must be applied with thick paint, and as little as possible to do with a roller in the same place. And finally, I would look at the paint from Tikurila or Sadolina, no offense to Tex will be said. The consumption of Finnish paint is half as much, and in terms of hiding power they are at their best. Moreover, do not take glossy paint, it gives glare, matte is best.
	Hello! answer those why, after puttying the ceiling with a rotbant with gypsum and finishing putty, the ceiling was painted. and the voids and cracks turned out to dry.
	For Nicholas If there is a void under the rotband, most likely you have prepared the surface poorly, you must definitely clean off the chalk and peeling plaster fragments. When laying a rotband on old paint, 50/50 peeling can also occur. If the bubbles are strong, you can locally clean out only places with strong defects and, after leveling them, paint over them also locally. The basis on which the solution is applied is a guarantee of the quality of further work.
	Tell me, is a woman able to paint the ceiling on her own, if she carefully read and outlined it before that! What are your tips? At the same time, the main problem, about which I did not find anything, is nasty cracks at the junctions of a tightly glued heavy gypsum wide ceiling cornice With gratitude, Galina..
	For Anonymous Good question! There are also such women who will stop a galloping horse ... Well, in general, there are a lot of women working among professional painters.
	I think of course you can! My husband and I do it together, I think one could do it alone.
	Please advise! The ceiling was painted 20 years ago, very high quality, it is assumed that with a water-based emulsion (definitely painted with a roller). Now I need to update it white color there is no longer a trace. I am offered to sand it first, then prime it with a primer with a film, then paint it with a water-based emulsion. Is it all right? The ceiling looks even, only the color is no longer satisfied. I have to do it alone, so I'm very worried. Never painted ceilings before.
	for Blonde, If you decide to paint on the old paint, then the first thing you need to check is whether the ceiling will go when painted with bubbles. To do this, we take warm water and a roller, after wetting the roller we roll it all over the ceiling, if the paint does not blow up when wetting, then there is an 80% chance to paint the ceiling using the old paint. Sometimes, all the same, the old paint is no, no, yes, and it will swell somewhere when painting, in which case you have to clean off the place of swelling and putty with a quick-drying putty, and locally sand and paint the place of repair. Sanding on a water emulsion, I hear it for the first time. Usually, a water-based emulsion is either cleaned when soaked with water, or painted directly on it when you are sure that it will not swell and there are no complaints about the evenness of the ceiling. Well, the primer on the water-based emulsion is not at all clear why, the primer serves for better adhesion between two dissimilar coatings. Maybe someone will correct me if I'm wrong IMHO
	good evening. the question is whether it is possible to apply mounting foam for sealing joints between tiles? there are quite deep gaps and a diameter of three centimeters .. And how will the putty lie on the foam?
	for Anonymous: a big request to somehow help! The ceiling is primed, painted three times with white Tex ceiling paint. Visible blemishes. In one place, a hole was formed to something white. I want to putty it and then paint over it. And here is the question: the ceiling is in non-painting. The paint dries very quickly, the impression is that when applying a new layer, the old one is erased from this strip. Ceiling is flat! What can be done? The paint is still over, what kind can I buy to paint on top? All the same Tex does not want to take. Is it possible to buy the one with pink so that you can see where you paint? Is it possible to apply it to Tex Ceiling?
	For Blonde. I dyed Tex super white, washable, "Profi" series. Good coverage!
	Thanks for the answer. I also intended to take the interior, but it was not in Merlin. However, I don’t understand paints at all - and now I’m worried: if there is a white can on the ceiling Tex (as indicated on the box), I paint another paint - what will be the effect? If I understand correctly, there are 3 types of similar paints. What is their interchangeability? Simple budget water dispersion, alkyd and latex? Can one be painted over the other? Or should we continue where we started? Purely theoretically, because they are all water-dispersion? Or the ceiling is listed as a chalk coating and further work is impossible without a primer or complete removal?
	For Anonymous. The ceiling is completely flat, the stripes are just not painted. Tell me, is it possible to do this: paint over non-paints, sand a little - and put the final layer? Is such a workflow possible?
	for corden23 Sealing cracks with foam, this is normal. Only on top you need not putty, but plaster, you can "Rotband" and lay a nylon mesh called "serpyanka". Now you can putty :)
	For blonde It looks like they already answered above for you, about painting ceilings using old paint. Any water-based emulsion will lie on top of each other, it’s just that there is an interior paint that, after drying, can still be washed off with water, so it can be smeared when re-painted. A normal water-based emulsion for the ceiling, after drying, should create a moisture-resistant film. I have not been working with Tex for a long time, because in my opinion, she has been suffering from poor hiding lately. I prefer Tikukurilla or Sadolin. As for the stain on the ceiling, if it is just a stain, then it will be painted over, if it is a hole or peeling paint, you need to putty again. In the previous comment, it was correctly written for you that painting on old paint is a 50/50 lottery, as lucky as anyone.
	For Anonymous And why sand it after painting, if everything went well, paint the finish layer and that's it!
	Is it possible to paint the ceiling on dry plaster?
	Very well written. AT free time I also do (amateur) repair and construction http: (according to the rules of the site, the link was removed by the moderator)
	Anonymous| August 9, 2013 09:14:49
	Lika| August 9, 2013 09:17:16 Tell me, if now the ceiling is whitewashed, and we want to paint it, then what to do? Can whitewash be washed off, primed and painted?
	Victor| August 9, 2013 12:40:01 for Lika, Quite right, first you soak the chalk with a roller, then scrape it off to concrete with a spatula, then prime it with impregnating primer, putty if there are defects, and even without putty, the ceiling will not be completely even and paint with a water-based emulsion.
	paf| August 9, 2013 18:27:24 Hello! Please advise! The ceiling is a solid slab, without seams, seemingly even. Can be patched right away finishing putty for painting?
	Kit82| August 9, 2013 22:44:54 If there is paint or chalk on the ceiling, then they must first be removed, otherwise the putty may begin to lag behind along with the old coating. Finishing putty is possible and necessary if the ceiling is even, preferably in two layers with intermediate drying and final sanding. Plaster is needed to seal large irregularities or seams.
	paf| August 10, 2013 18:11:59 for Kit82, Thank you! There were wallpapers on the ceiling. What finishing putty is better to putty?
	Anonymous| August 10, 2013 20:37:06 Vetonit LR or KR IMHO I always did it, it lays down well, and it also hides well.
	paf| August 10, 2013 21:22:08 for Anonymous | August 10, 2013 20:37:06 Thank you!
	Marianne| August 26, 2013 10:15:46 Please tell me what to do. They made the ceiling leveled with a rodman and then finished. I started to paint with a water-based emulsion and in the center of the ceiling I painted 3 spots that were not painted over already 3 times, but there was no sense, as if the paint did not fall on this place. What to do? Thank you in advance.
	Dushka| August 26, 2013 13:56:28 For Marianne It cannot be that it is not painted over. Either - 1. Putty has not dried in this place 2. Too liquid paint 3. Non-moisture resistant paint (washed out by itself) It is necessary to pass the roller normally in this place and let it dry for an hour or two, and then paint with a second layer.
	Good afternoon. A good article, thank you, I reviewed a bunch of sites and only here I found interesting information. Now let me tell you about my problem. They painted the ceiling directly on the putty, everything is fine, the ceiling is white. But they were just in a hurry and painted on the ceiling, which was not completely dry. Those. there are places where 10-20 cm of raw putty and naturally spots are visible after painting. The first layer was diluted by 10% with water (it is written that this will be, such as a primer) Questions: 1. Will the ceiling dry under paint, bindo 20 water-dispensing paint? 2. If so, after how much time or do I need to apply another layer? 3. What kind of climate should be created in the room for quick drying (the weather was rainy and we kept opening the balcony, probably in vain)? 4. If not dry, then what should be done? Thanks in advance for your answer!
	One more question, it’s a pity that you don’t have a search on the site, I’ll open the parquet with varnish, I would like to read information on this issue, throw off the link to the article if there is one of course?
	for Vladimir, 1) Under the paint it will dry of course, but longer. 2) It all depends on the thickness of the applied putty and the level of humidity in the room. (if the room is not very large, you can turn on the oil heater for the night) The paint finally gets dry in 2 days. You will see for yourself if there are gaps. 3) In wet weather, everything dries much worse, for paint on the ceiling it is not desirable to dry quickly, that is, drafts (the paint where the thicker layer is applied: at the joints of the ceiling and walls, in the corners, on fillets - it can crack). Opened, ventilated and closed again. 4) It dries, sometimes it takes 2-3 days to dry (but this is when there is a thick layer of plaster under the bottom.
	for Vladimir, Hello. Try to look here http://site/articles/499/40
	for Vladimir, It will dry on its own, air it periodically. If after drying you can not see the stripes and non-painting, then you can no longer paint.
	for Sergey, Thank you very much, the layer is really large 4-5 cm, it rained for a week, so I tried not to open the balcony. The heater is also from it and there was a drying effect, and without it everything was wet for 2 days. Thank you again. Your answers are really comprehensive. I will definitely put a thematic link to your site on one of my sites.
	for moderator, I read it, but it's a bit different from what I was looking for, but thanks anyway for the response!
	Going to paint the ceiling. Now the ceiling is tiled. He tore off the tile, under it a seemingly even concrete ceiling was revealed. Only tiny porous holes. I'm going to paint with Tikkurila Euro 3 paint, Tikkurila Euro Primer. As a result, a lot of questions have arisen, please tell me: 1) Is it possible to do without putty at all? Only primer (which I hope will fill the pores) + paint. 2) If the 1st option is undesirable, is it possible to get by with only finishing putty? And how many layers are needed in this case? 3) How suitable is the above primer for all layers? (on concrete, on starting putty, to finish before painting)? 4) If you still have to use 2 putties, is a paint grid between them mandatory? Thanks in advance.
	for Dmitry, 1) The concrete ceiling is unlikely to be even (of course, you can paint only neither the primer nor the paint will fill the pores, and on the painted white surface you will see even more black dots :) which will be doubly offensive. 2) The finish is just right for puttying on a relatively flat surface, even puttying in one layer it is not always possible to block all the pores in concrete, especially if you are not a pro. Better 2 layers and then sand the bumps. 3) If I'm not mistaken Tikkurila Euro Primer is a concentrate diluted with water. You can primer before each new operation, the main thing is not to soak the previous base heavily with soil and then let it dry. 4) It is not entirely clear with two putties, rather two layers :) The mesh is applied only in case of sealing the seams, or when applying a sufficiently thick layer of plaster. Sometimes the mesh is applied to problem areas where there is a high risk of plaster lagging.
	Thanks, got it. And between the layers of the finish, do you have to wait until the first one dries, or did you go all over the ceiling once and immediately in the second circle? I took KAPRAL F20 Finishing Putty, do you happen to know how it is?
	Drying between layers is mandatory, otherwise the first layer of putty will be wound on the spatula.
	Thank you, and another question appeared: On my can of paint (Tikkurila Euro 3) it is written that the surface to be painted must be puttied with water-borne putties, and I have putty in the form of a ready-made mixture. Is it critical?
	So finished putty on the water and divorced :)
	Hello. I have a problem, maybe you can help me. Such a situation. We glued wallpaper on the ceiling for painting on a non-woven base. The next day we painted it in two layers. we decided that we didn’t paint it over and intensively rolled it two more times at close range. And even before that, just in case, we primed it. And everything remained the same. No changes. Only in some places there were also traces of the roller. we will apply what to do. Please tell me the solution.
	for Love, Your problem may have two causes. 1) The ceiling is not sufficiently prepared (there are recesses and sinks). In such a situation, the wallpaper, obscuring unevenness, may simply have a shadow in this place, which many people think is not clear. Checking this is quite simple - you just need to shine with another light source (carrying, table lamp, etc.) from different angles. If the spots disappear at a certain angle of light, that's the reason for you. 2) The second reason may be poor quality paint. The Dufa brand itself is quite well-known, but it is enough to type dufa SUPERWEISS reviews in Yandex, and everything should immediately become clear to you. Lots of low-quality goods maybe it's a fake. Here I can only advise you to buy another one (necessarily thick paint and cover the entire ceiling again with one layer).
	Yes, I forgot to say. No need to prime over fresh paint. And yet, there are a lot of reviews about Dufa, namely that stains appear from under the paint (from a primer, glue, some even from wood)
	Thank you very much. Let's try to use another paint. I hope it helps)
	Hello, tell me.
	for sergey, The main thing is not to make a draft when the paint dries, as it fast drying and a thick layer (especially in the corners) may crack. Although with a thick layer it can crack without a draft 50x50. Well, you can air it after 2-3 hours.
	As practice shows, the quality of the paint does not directly depend on the price. It happened that when buying expensive paint, you were completely disappointed (maybe it depends on the party), and it happens that inexpensive paint will cover everything in one layer, so the second time you just need to walk lightly.
	Good afternoon. There was a lot of glue on the ceiling under the old wallpaper (municipal repair), plus metal parts are visible, rusty spots appeared. Actually questions: 1. If you stick wallpaper for painting (vinyl on non-woven), can rust appear later. 2. If you paint the ceiling, then how to protect yourself from the appearance rusty spots on the paint, is it possible to additionally process the ceiling with something. Do I need to wash off the old glue? Thanks in advance for your replies.
	1. Rust can show through 50/50 2. If you paint the ceiling without wallpaper, then it is better to wash off the glue, since the paint applied to the glue can curl up and crack when it dries. The glue is washed off with a long-handled roller and warm water. If you plan to glue non-woven fabric, then you can not wash off the glue, still smear it with glue again, the main thing is that the base itself is strong and not crumbling. To protect yourself from the manifestation of rust on paint or wallpaper, you can use paint. Before painting and gluing, the rusty area is covered with a thick oil or nitro paint giving a powerful film. Small spots can simply be glued with an overlap of transparent scotch tape, and then glue the wallpaper, it will not work to paint over scotch tape.
	for Elena, It is better to process nitruhoy rust, and in several layers with intermediate drying. I did it myself a long time ago, the fittings were close to the surface. Everything has been fine for over 10 years.
	Rust is very difficult to fight, it comes through everything. The most correct solution is to cover with film-forming enamels. Preferably quick dry.
	Good people, if anyone else reads this forum, I have such a problem, the ceiling is glued with wallpaper for painting and painted when decorating the room. Now I am doing repairs in this room and decided not to remove these wallpapers, but simply paint them again. I painted today with Alhina Ultraweiss paint. The paint says that the first layer can be diluted with a little water, like primed like this, but I thought that this would not work for already painted wallpapers and did not dilute it with water. At first I painted parallel to the window, and then perpendicularly, but right away, I painted each square like that, because I understood about the video from the Internet, but it turns out that today you need to paint only parallel to the window, and tomorrow perpendicularly .. Although I doubt it very much .... Ceiling I didn’t paint over very well, in some places I got dark stripes .. The fact is that the wallpaper is a little textured and the more I rolled it, the more this texture clogged and in many places it smoothed out ... What should I do now, how to paint tomorrow ? Maybe it’s necessary to dilute the paint now so that it doesn’t clog the texture and maybe even paint over non-paints better, although everywhere they write that the second layer should be painted with thick paint ... So, in general, I didn’t want to apply two layers to the already painted wallpaper ... Advise, pliz! Thank you.
	for the barbarian In your case, it was enough to paint over the ceiling in 1 coat of slightly diluted paint. Thick paint, of course, will clog the entire texture. Perhaps in your case, after the paint dries, its volume will decrease and the texture will reappear. I have been doing ceilings for a very long time, but I always paint only along the window. On a previously painted ceiling, in general, it is necessary to paint with great care, after soaking the latter with paint, paint, putty and even wallpaper from the ceiling may begin to peel off. The ceiling is painted from the window and along it. Having typed on the paint roller, we roll the first strip (from wall to wall), then again taking in the paints, we paint the second strip slightly overlapping the previous one, after rolling the second strip with a semi-dry roller, we remove the transition between the 1st and 2nd stripes (very carefully, literally going through one and the other the same place no more than 2 times and without pressing hard on the roller). Then we take the next 3rd strip onto the paint roller and remove the transition between 3 and 2, etc. Everywhere they write correctly, the pros first paint with liquid paint, as if priming the ceiling (this operation will prevent the next layer of paint from being strongly absorbed). Then the finishing layer is painted with thicker paint. But all this applies to the first painting of the ceiling. You have a different case, there is already paint on the ceiling and absorption will be minimal. There should be no opacity after the first layer.
	it was necessary to paint in one layer without diluting the paint, it happens from the factory that the paint is very thick, then water is added. The paint should lay down evenly and not shine through. For beginners in this business, it is better to use a textured (hairy) roller, since it is easier for them to remove transitions and everything is well painted over. The only nuance of such a roller is a small shagreen on the surface (pimples). about me personally, I like it even more than just a smooth ceiling.
	Many thanks to those who responded. But still, what should I do tomorrow? You will have to paint the ceiling again, because stripes and non-paintings are visible. And how now to paint only in one direction? In which one: in a parallel window or perpendicular? Or again and again and again?
	Does the paint need to be thinned? I think she's a little chubby...
	I still don’t understand why the last layer is painted perpendicular to the window, in my student years I worked as a cleaner in the student canteen, and so the floors, on the contrary, had to be washed parallel to the window so that no streaks were visible))))
	For a long time he was engaged in "painting". I always painted ceilings parallel to the window. An exception may be a corner room with two windows. Then the ceiling was painted along the window through which more light enters during the day. The previous layer will show through the liquid paint and there may be non-painting. Therefore, they paint a second time thick. Well, the texture of the wallpaper with each painting will, of course, be less visible.
	for Anonymous, thank you very much for useful advice. Today I painted the ceiling with a second layer, only parallel to the window, one strip from wall to wall, starting from the window, I did not dilute the paint. It became better where it was bad yesterday, but where it was normal yesterday, stripes became visible if you look from the side where the bed will stand. This bedroom has the letter "G", Yesterday's painted over texture of the wallpaper on the ceiling, indeed, appeared more or less after the paint dried. And the specialists do not go for a small amount of work and for the most part they are specialists who would paint no better than I myself .. Here like all answered. Thanks a lot to everyone. There will be questions about the repair, I will write and wait for your advice ....
	"So advice was needed again." YOUR MESSAGE HAS BEEN MOVED TO A FEATURE POST Article address http://site/articles/129
	Hello! Tell me please, it so happened that the ceiling was puttied badly and the flaws were noticed only after painting. They decided to redo these places, puttyed, sanded, and not primed. And now, after two layers of painting, these places are still noticeable. Tell me, is it possible to paint Have these areas primed and repainted?
	for Regina, The paint has already fulfilled the role of the primer, and it is pointless to prime over fresh paint. In your case it could be: 1) The local repair site might not have dried yet (the paint needs time to polymerize), so the repair site stands out against the general background. 2) Maybe you painted with a different paint, even from different cans of the same company it may differ. 3) It is possible that local repairs were performed poorly (roughnesses remained). Before doing something further, it is better to wait for the paint to dry completely for 2 days will be enough (perhaps then the layers will even out) Also check the repair site for evenness (this article perfectly describes how to do this with a lamp)
	for Regina, If the paint is fresh, there is no point in priming. Paint again, just fine.
	Tell me, how can you distinguish the starting putty from the finish, if there is no packaging with a description? I have two packages with putty, but I can’t understand which one is the finishing one.
	Finishing putty means fine-grainedness and is used as a final leveling layer without large pores just before painting.
	Hello) I ran into a problem at the work site. The builders painted the ceiling a week ago, everything was fine, but today, having arrived at the facility, I saw pink stripes along the moldings ... The ceiling is combined. Stretch ceilings finished yesterday. And today such an incident appeared on drywall... Customers are shocked... What to do? Tell me please...
	for Belan, Perhaps the moldings were glued to a specific adhesive that reacted with the ceiling paint.
	for Anonymous, Glue was used special for moldings, and the ceiling was painted with Dulux paint...
	And the wallpaper paste couldn't get on the ceiling, or were the walls also painted?
	for Anonymous, the walls are still without wallpaper, only plastered ...
	Belana! paint in 2 layers where the pink stripes appeared!
	for Belan, Could it be dry wallpaper paste?
	Hello! I myself plastered the ceiling in the kitchen (gypsum plaster), what steps should I do next if I want to paint with a water-based emulsion? Do I need to sand the surface, treat the plaster with a primer, and then apply putty?)) Thanks in advance for your reply.
	Depending on what result you want to get. The plaster is not skinned, it will not be superfluous to prime it before puttying. If you need a flat ceiling, then several layers of putty are applied to the plaster and the entire ceiling, after which all the irregularities are sanded, then the ceiling is again primed and painted.
	Thanks for the answer!
	Hello! I puttyed the plasterboard ceiling, primed it with anti-san, now I put four layers of snow paint and stains appear on what to do.
	Usually such cases occur when the putty itself has not yet dried. Or the putty is not applied uniformly (only at the seams). GKL ceilings are best pasted over with cheap non-woven wallpaper, and then painted. No cracks, no stains.
	Thanks for the answer! The painter says it was necessary not to prime, now they say in places where the layer of putty is thicker, the paint slides and does not stick. Tell me, can you sand the applied paint and change it to another one, or you need to putty again and then paint but without primer.
	Always prime before painting! If they paint with a smooth roller, then it is quite difficult to paint over them. When the paint is poorly "hiding" it is better to use a "hairy" roller. Such a roller gives a small shagreen (pimples) and hides all defects. But as they say: There is no comrade for taste and color)))
	Hello! Tell me, about 8 years ago, repairs were made, the ceiling was painted with a water-based emulsion, now we are doing repairs again, painting the ceilings, but after 2-layer painting, the water-based emulsion broke in some places, the ceiling was primed. What to do? Why could this be?
	If you are painting over old paint, then it is not surprising that the paint began to peel off (fresh paint soaked the old one, and it moved away from the base along with the new one). Therefore, the old paint is removed, and if it does not leave, it is checked for peeling with a roller and warm water. If new paint bursts on a cleaned base, there may be several reasons: 1. poorly prepared base 2. poor quality paint 3. thick layer of paint application 4. quick drying of the ceiling (creating a draft)
	for Paf, even if it is the finishing one, it will still work out exactly from the second layer.
	Good day. In 2009, he sealed the ceiling with tiles in a row, in a hurry and there was no time for leveling the seams. Now I want to paint it. Tile-foam, budget. How to seal the seams and how to prime them later (or better not to prime) and is such an option for refreshing the ceiling possible?
	It can be Vetonit LR or KR, I glued fillets on it and sealed the seams between them and the ceiling with it. And it is best to paint with a good (thick and opaque) water-based emulsion, but I would still go through the primer before painting.
	Just finished with the ceiling, used PUFAS from the sale. Paint reviews are good. I bought 9l, I thought for 30-40 squares, but it was just enough for 20. I had to do 5 layers for a complete covering with several additional paints of putty spots. At first, the paint was too thick, after the roller, large streaks remained. I sanded everything with P130 mesh, diluted the paint a little with water. As a result, the opacity disappeared. Shelf life was normal. In general, I used Novaya and Tex 5-10 years ago - it was better! Also, be sure to wet first. old ceiling properly. So that it dripped directly from it and it was clear that it was wet! It’s better to tear off the excess with a spatula than later, like me, to pick out the bubbles several times, putty, rub, paint over.
	For Anonymous | July 23, 2015 13:52:23 Vetonite from the seams of the foam will peel off over time, there will be cracks. If the seams are thick > 7-10mm, I would even use foam carefully, if less, then acrylic sealant. And then the emulsion can be painted directly without a primer.
	tell me what to do if the ceiling is painted with oil paint, and they want to whitewash it with chalk.
	Run a roller with hot water over the ceiling, if the paint does not peel off, then you can directly over the paint and whiten.
	for Light, First primed, then chalk. Everything is holding up well.
	Tell me, please, is it necessary to prime the coated ceiling in order to cover it with chalk again? And should the primer be diluted with water or treated with a concentrate? The ceiling is old (stalinka), the old coating is partially removed, only peeling off (putty is applied in these places). Why partially - because it's scary to pick old surfaces, you can even reach the shingles, thereby violating the entire "landscape" of the ceiling. Cracks were also processed (primer + plaster + putty). Therefore, at the output we have - a coated ceiling and putty spots. What to do next? Thank you.
	The soil must be diluted, otherwise such soil may be torn off in the form of a continuous film. The chalk itself does not need to be disturbed. Repaired fragments (putty), preferably covered with primer It is desirable to cover such a ceiling with chalk using an air spray gun (for example, an old vacuum cleaner), since the mechanical method (bast, roller, etc.) can destroy an already fragile base.
	Thanks for the answer! I will take into account. And another question: if you prepare a composition of chalk for whitewashing on your own, then take the carpentry glue dry or can you take a ready-made liquid one (on the jar it says water-dispersion glue-express "Moment")? And is it necessary for carpentry, PVA will not work?
	Why glue? I didn’t add anything except (blue) to the chalk, everything has been holding up normally for eight years now. I have not tried it myself, but for adhesion to the surface, cement is sometimes added to the chalk solution, but such a solution can only be applied mechanically.
	The rust is covered with a slurry of pure cement, then, after drying, this place is painted over with nitro enamel and puttied.
	Can a concrete ceiling be painted with paint?
	for Anonymous, Why don't you?
	good afternoon! Tell me please, the ceiling was puttied, primed, then the finishing putty, after which traces of apparently putty are visible, will they be painted over with paint or do I need to apply another layer of finishing putty?
	the main thing was that there were no scratches and irregularities, and the heterogeneity of the color of the putty was covered with paint
	Tell me, is it necessary to apply a layer of varnish or primer under paint on concrete for better adhesion? And what can you say about varnishes and paints ( link removed by moderator)? What from their catalog can be used as a primer for paint on concrete?
	for Alexander Burbylov, Why lacquer? Concrete is treated with impregnating soil.
	the ceiling is painted with oil paint. I want to paint with Tikkurila (water emulsion.) There is a small crack. How to repair it correctly?
	for Anonymous, Expand the crack, prime, plaster, putty, prime and paint.
	Tell me please, is it possible to first wash off the whitewash, let it dry, prime and paint with a water-based emulsion, the ceiling is even without seams, it only darkened from time to time
	If you are not embarrassed by possible stains from chalk, (texture) which can be noticeable even under a layer of paint, then why not!
	And when washing off the chalk on the concrete ceiling, "pores" may appear! which you cannot block with paint. And then black dots will be visible. Puttying is always desirable.
	Tell me please. I painted the ceiling (after putty) with white latex water-dispersion paint. The ceiling turned out to be stained. I waited two hours and painted again. The spots have not disappeared. Spots as if somewhere the paint does not cover very much, but somewhere very much. Most likely the first time I painted the paint was too thick. Please, what should I do now? Will I be able to fix this problem with a few more layers?
	Primed once before painting.
	You can of course try to go through another layer. But better paint let it dry properly, at least a day. Then go through the entire ceiling. You need to paint in one direction, and it is desirable to stir the paint well, since all the pigment is usually at the bottom of the can. When painting "fresh" you need to be careful, as fresh paint can be wound on a roller. Therefore, one place is not carried out many times, and the paint should be thinner (so that the old one does not stick to the roller).
	Thanks for the advice. While I wait. It says on this paint that it can be re-painted after 30 minutes - 2 hours. Painted in one direction. First, parallel to the window, and the next layer is perpendicular to the window. See how it's done on the internet. It was beautiful to watch, and everything turned out easily. I can paint many times until it's evenly white (if it does), but I suspect that many layers of paint on the ceiling are fraught with consequences.
	The paint was mixed with a mixer (not a kitchen one)))))))))). But I suspect that I added too little water the first time. I hoped that everything would pass after the second time, but it was not there (((((((((
	Maybe the paint is not very caught, some are like water (transparent). Opaque paint should cover everything in 2 coats.
	And further. If, for example, you take a roller with a completely low pile. It is very difficult to block dark places in 2 times. Roller with a long pile - more than overlaps, but the coating is of the "shagreen" type. Dark spots on your ceiling, it can also be an unevenness that does not get light. It’s easy to check, shine a lamp from below, if there is no spot, then this is an uneven ceiling.
	Maybe. But I took the paint more expensive and to wash. This is the kitchen ceiling.
	Roller with medium pile. no irregularities ( good master putty). The impression is that the paint lay unevenly. It's whiter there, it's darker. Therefore, I sin on myself that I had to add more water the first time. I was afraid to give a lot, because I painted from a liter jar on which it says that it can be diluted but not more than 5% of water. And you understand for one liter))))))))))) The second time I gave more water. Maybe that's why it didn't cover the problem area?
	Don't thin the paint too much. And even for 5 times you will not block. And remember that each next layer is the risk of screwing up the whole work. Good luck.
	Hello! tell me who faced such a problem. five years ago, the ceiling was repaired hl + stretch. hl is painted with matte white water-dispersion paint. the ceiling plinth or molding is painted with the same paint. about two years ago, pink spots began to appear on the molding. if you just paint over the old paint, it will work to hide the spots and what is the best way to do it? thanks in advance.
	Perhaps during the repair, wallpaper glue got on the molding, it sometimes turns yellow or turns pink on white paint over time. And so of course it remains only by experience and on small area experiment. Although, of course, if pink color rushing from under from under the oldest paint, then a new layer of water-based emulsion is unlikely to stop it. Since the water emulsion does not create an airtight film and dries for a long time. For example, rust is covered with nitro enamel (it has time to dry quickly and creates a film)
	Hello! Please help, I've run into a problem. Moved into a newly refurbished building. After a couple of years on painted ceiling yellow stripes appeared, and only on one plate, almost along the entire length. Now I'm doing repairs, I removed all the paint. How to prevent jaundice. Even after applying the primer, you can see where the stripes were, it is darker.
	If the strips are narrow, then it is more likely rust from the reinforcement (not the last floor by chance). If it is rust, then it can only be covered with film-forming agents. For example nitro paint, oil paint. But it is better not to cover the entire ceiling, only the rusty places themselves. And after that, it is necessary to select a putty that will stick to the painted surface. Or alternatively - stretch ceiling.
	Sergey. Thanks for the answer. I'll try to paint. If over time they reappear, only the stretch ceiling remains. I have a question. What primer to treat the putty before painting so that it does not get wet and washed off. Dulux latex paint. Putty vetonit. I have read that some people have this problem.
	I use any "Impregnation" primer for putty, the main thing is not film-forming. The primer with the film will not saturate the putty, and may peel off along with the paint in the form of a bubble. The paint was chosen well. The main thing to remember when painting. Do not drive the roller for a long time in one place. I usually painted the first layer with a slightly diluted paint (thinner), then let it dry well, and painted the second layer already thicker. It turned out that the first layer, as it were, impregnates the structure of the putty and prevents the subsequent absorption of the second layer. And the second thicker layer already completely covered all the flaws. Good luck)
	Thanks a lot!!
	Useful material, I now at least have an idea about the repair of the ceiling. Of course, I won’t undertake to do it myself, but now I know how to check the work) Thanks to the author for the tip with a flashlight.
	The main thing is to carefully remove the old paint if it peels off or is washed out with water.
	When repairing a ceiling on paint, it is better not to save! I remember I bought cheaper paint, it turned out to be like water. It does not cover dark spots, even if you crack, after 3 layers the putty crawled onto the roller. I let this paint dry, putty where it was damaged, went for normal paint and painted it. 1 layer and voila...
	Now at least the surface of the plate in a modern apartment is made without seams. It used to be, in the order of things, 2-3 rusts, and even the slabs lay at different levels.
	Thank you for a very useful and interesting article!
	Good article. You don't have to be a super professional to do your own repairs. Thanks for the detailed instructions. Useful in life)))
	Helped a lot. I myself thought of hiring people, but nothing happened. Saved.
	Useful article, I learned a lot of new things. Thank you.
	The ceiling is better to paint with matte paint!
	Good afternoon, Tell me what to do? I cleaned the ceiling to a concrete slab and covered it with a finishing putty (smooth slab), sanded it, vacuumed the ceiling, covered it with the first layer of water-based matte paint and I got pores. A lot of times. Before all stages, I primed, let each layer dry for at least 12 hours. What to do now? How to remove pores?
	There may be several options here: 1) If the ceiling is covered with putty not completely, but partially - there is a possibility that when painting "bare" concrete, its pores will be visible. 2) If the putty is applied in one layer, then the probability of pores is high, since it is usually applied in two layers. How to choose a quality bath To bring a worn bath in order, you can use various methods. But today, the restoration of bathtubs is often carried out using an acrylic liner ...
What you need to know about plywood defects, what groups they are divided into and how to distinguish a factory defect from a defect of natural origin...

When performing any repair work, it is important to choose the right tool. It would seem that it could be easier than painting the ceiling. But, for those who start such work on their own for the first time, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the process technology and choose the right tool. Let us consider in more detail the question of how to properly paint the ceiling with a roller, and to perform the painting with high quality.

Roller selection and preparation for painting

You can paint the surface of the ceiling with a roller. To determine which roller is needed for painting the ceiling, you should pay attention to the following parameters:

• check the bristles of the roller. If they are easy to pull out, then such a tool is not suitable;
• squeeze the roller firmly. If it is very soft, then it will be inconvenient to paint;
• pay attention to the length of the pile of the roller. The longer the villi, the deeper the paint can penetrate into the recesses of the ceiling surface.

Before painting the ceiling with a roller, it is necessary to perform preparatory work:

• free the room from furniture or cover it with protective covers;
• close or temporarily remove lighting fixtures from the ceiling;
• if there are places on the surface of the ceiling that do not require painting, then seal them with adhesive tape.

The room is ready, but the most important thing remains - preparing the ceiling for painting. You need to do the following:

1. get rid of the old coating (paint, whitewash) with a spatula;
2. brush off the dust with a wide brush;
3. carefully putty the surface;
4. apply a layer of primer;
5. paint corners and borders with a brush, if available. This eliminates the spreading of paint when using a roller. It is advisable to brush around the entire perimeter for the convenience of the next stage of staining.

Listed preparations required before painting events. This is necessary so that in the future the paint does not crumble and is protected from moisture.

Varieties of rollers

The quality of the work performed depends entirely on the competent choice of tools. To properly paint the ceiling with a roller, you need to know what types of tools there are.

Hardware stores offer the following selection of rollers:

• fleecy;
• velor;
• foam.

The choice of tool depends on the condition of the cultivated area. If the ceiling coating is rough and rough, then the roller must be bought with longer villi so that the defects are painted over.

Foam rubber and velor varieties of rollers absorb a large amount of paint. Therefore, when using them, make sure that there are no smudges and streaks on the surface.

To paint the ceiling with a roller, you need to monitor the result of the work, checking how the paint lay down. Do not forget to run the roller on the tray before painting the ceiling to prevent unnecessary ingress of the coloring composition.

The final stroke is applied towards the window, and the previous one must be painted perpendicularly.

Additional accessories for painting

The ceiling paint roller has been selected. But more will be needed additional tools and materials:

• dye;
• brushes (small and large) for coloring hard-to-reach places;
• foam rubber or rags.

Important: how well the tool is selected depends on the quality of the surface to be painted and ease of use.

Painting begins with painting over decorative elements (if any), so if you plan to decorate the ceiling, decide in advance on their installation. Paint decorative elements more convenient with a brush.

Paint selection

What coloring composition will look better on the ceiling surface? When choosing, consider the following points:

• drying time;
• environmental friendliness, the presence of smell;
• read the instructions, where it is indicated how to dilute the paint. The best option- water.

You can paint the ceiling correctly various types colors:

• mineral, containing cement or slaked lime;
• silicate. If a room with high humidity, it is better to choose another option;
• acrylic. Excellent resistance to temperature changes.

The choice depends on preferences and financial capabilities.

Method of correct staining with a roller

The best way to apply paint to a ceiling covering is to paint in parallel stripes. Watch carefully the video below on how to properly paint the ceiling with a roller.

There is a small but significant nuance when painting with a roller. Try not to allow the last strip to dry before applying the next stroke. Apply the coloring composition with an overlap, capturing a few centimeters of the previous strip (up to 10 cm). Thus, the coverage will be uniform.

For those who first encountered like this work, it is advisable to pre-train on a neutral surface by trying to paint with a roller.
Try to work in daylight. So all the errors will be visible, which can be quickly eliminated without waiting for the paint to dry.

We work

To paint the ceiling with a roller, you must go through the following steps:

1. prepare working tools and materials. We put a little selected paint (acrylic or water-based) in the container. When covering a second stroke, the paint must be thinned;
2. we lower the roller into a container with a coloring composition so that the paint completely covers the pile (up to the handle). Be sure to get rid of excess paint by rolling a roller over the corrugated surface of a pre-prepared tray;
3. hold the roller correctly - at an angle relative to the head;
4. paint better, starting from the window or door. Easy to see in daylight correct coverage surfaces with a coloring composition;
5. the first word is ready. Leave it to dry for 10 hours.

For high-quality application of the dye with a roller, it is necessary to paint over the area in two or three layers.

The last layer is applied perpendicular to the first.

Before you start painting, watch the video on how to paint the ceiling with a roller.

Whitewash

The most accessible and easy to perform method of painting the ceiling is whitewashing. Watch how to whitewash the ceiling in the video, and use the following recommendations:

• inspect the working area for cracks and greasy spots. If necessary, wash off the old coating by moistening the brush or roller, and only then begin to paint. Scrape off the wetted surface with a spatula, and putty the defects;
• if there are no defects, then you can walk with a vacuum cleaner to remove dust.

In the process, use a respirator or gauze bandage. Protect your eyes with goggles.

If the previous coating was chalky, then it must be removed before whitewashing. Such materials are incompatible.

To properly whitewash the ceiling with a roller, the surface must be primed with a composition based on chalk or lime. Thus, you can save on the coloring solution.

Decide which solution you will use and prepare it:

Check out the step-by-step whitewashing of the ceiling with a roller in the video below and read the recommendations:

1. take any foam rubber roller with a long handle;
2. dip the roller into the whitewash, previously poured into the container, then roll it out on the surface. The roller must be completely saturated with the ink solution;
3. so that there are no streaks with spots, work with a roller in reciprocating slow movements;
4. the first layer is parallel to the wall where the window is located;
5. leave the first layer to dry before applying the next;
6. avoid drafts during operation and exposure of the ceiling to sunlight.

Important: Stir the whitewash periodically while painting.

Tricks when working with a roller

There are little tricks when painting the ceiling with a roller:

• when painting ceilings yourself, use brushes to paint the corners;
• you need to paint with a roller at a fast pace, not allowing the previous painted track to freeze. If this rule is not observed, ugly stains and swelling of the paint will appear;
• if during the work some area turned out to be unpainted, then leave it until the entire layer is completely dry. It will be possible to correct the error when applying the next layer.

See how the tricks of painting the ceiling with a roller are used in the video, so the painting process will become clearer.

In the process of painting with a roller, difficulties may arise, which are eliminated in the following way:

• if you notice stains after staining the first layer, do not try to eliminate them. Wait for it to dry, then go over the next layer - the stains will go away;
• invite an assistant to observe and inspect the already painted area. So you can quickly notice unpainted areas and correct errors in time;
• test the comfort and length of the adjustable roller handle on a neutral surface. To do this, before you start painting, try to draw a few stripes on the wall with the tool, which you will then paste with wallpaper.

Painting the surface of the ceiling with a roller is easy. The main thing is to choose a quality tool, and follow the sequence of work.