What nutrient soil is needed for indoor violets. We select or create soil for planting and transplanting Saintpaulia. We make the earth mixture

The substrate is the basis on which plants are grown. For example, vermiculite or perlite are substrates for rooting cuttings. The composition of the substrate may include various components: high-moor peat, lowland peat, sand, vermiculite, perlite, sphagnum moss, coconut substrate, humus, black soil, charcoal and etc.

Earth, soil mixture or soil - all pure components or their mixtures, which include natural organic lands. Their main property is a rich supply of nutrients, which ensures the growth of plants planted in them without additional feeding.

landless mix - is made on the basis of peat or coconut soil with the addition of inert rippers (perlite, vermiculite). Distinctive feature- practically does not contain the nutrients necessary for growth, but allows you to directionally manage nutrition with the help of top dressing. A big plus of the landless mixture is the absence of phytopathogens.

Substrate requirements: - lightness; - moisture capacity; - breathability; - sufficient content of phosphorus and potassium, as well as essential trace elements; - nitrogen content in sufficient quantity, but not in excess; - acidity close to normal pH 5.5-6.5; - the presence of a lively and favorable microflora that helps fight diseased bacteria; - absence of pests and their larvae;

One of important indicators favorable soil - air capacity. Air capacity is the ability of soil to contain a certain amount of air. It depends on the porosity and moisture content of the soil. The higher the porosity and the lower the humidity, the greater the air capacity. The more structural the soil, the more large pores in it that are free from water, and, therefore, its moisture capacity is higher. There is little air in sprayed structureless soils.

It is necessary to buy soil containing reddish-brown, coarse-fibered high-moor peat. It is not advised to take “Polish” substrate violet, Saintpaulia “Biotech”, Saintpaulia “Garden of Miracles”, For violets “Garden-garden” - the soil is based on low-lying peat, too black, caking. ASB GREENWORLD, Germany - this soil can be called the most optimal for violets

But on the basis of some of them, a suitable substrate can be prepared. For the cultivation of violets, land mixtures are usually used that contain minerals necessary for the growth and flowering of violets. In any case, you will need to add baking powders such as vermiculite, charcoal, styrofoam, perlite and sphagnum moss to suitable commercial soil. They absorb moisture well, and then gradually give it away. Better yet, make your own mix.

In general, two approaches to the preparation of land mixtures should be distinguished. The first is the use of an extremely simple peat substrate with rippers. In this case, constant feeding is necessary. The second is the preparation of a complex balanced mixture containing the nutrients necessary for growth over a certain period of time. Which option you choose will depend on the care of the plant.

Soil for violets should be airy and retain moisture well. Perlite is an indispensable component for growing violets, since it provides air access to the roots, while vermiculite makes the soil mixture loose and absorbs moisture. The peculiarity of sphagnum moss is that, while absorbing moisture, it gradually gives it to the roots of the plant. It is useful to add a small amount of finely ground charcoal. The number of rippers in the composition of the soil for violets should be 30-50% of the total volume.

Violet prefers loose, neutral soils with a pH of 5.5-6.5. The optimal substrate for its cultivation is high-moor peat, but not in pure, but with adjusted acidity. Since in its pure form peat is an acidic environment, which is not suitable for the development of violets. If you transplant violets twice a year, changing the soil, then the plant will receive enough nutrients from the new soil and additional feeding is not required.

It is not the finished substrate that should be subjected to heat treatment, but those of its components that may contain eggs and larvae of pests - leaf, sod, manure humus, all purchased substrates, as well as land whose origin is unknown to you. It is not necessary to process those components that can be destroyed during processing (clean peat and peat soils, washed sand, perlite, vermiculite, moss, fertilizers)..

The most common methods of soil cultivation are dressing chemicals, calcination in the oven at high temperature, spilling boiling water and steaming over boiling water, in the microwave. Put the soil in a small amount in a regular plastic bag. And in the microwave. 3 minutes on one side and 3 minutes on the other. And that's it. No bugs, no spiders, no worms or fungi.

All living things, as you know, are at least 70% water, which also heats up inside insects. At this temperature inside the body, no one survives. The temperature is deadly for animals, but not for the decomposition of nitrogen and trace elements. The earth is perfectly sterilized within 7 minutes at a power of 800 watts. But it is better to do two sessions of 2-3 minutes each. And the soil does not deteriorate, and does not smell, and what no, but sterilization.

Steamed in an old pan and a colander that enters it without gaps, a lid that closes it tightly. Put a double layer of gauze in a colander and fill it with slightly moistened earth, without tamping. Cover the colander with a lid and place it on the pan so that the water in it does not reach the bottom of the colander by 3-4 cm. At least an hour should pass from the moment the water boils to the end of steaming. After the earth has completely cooled down, you can add all the “clean” components to it - peat, various rippers and fertilizers. In order to restore the microflora, you can use ready-made biological preparations containing microflora useful for the soil, for example, Trichodermin, Gliocladin, Alirin-B, etc.

Sterile soil needs to be approached differently. It is empty in terms of population. And in nature, emptiness, if it happens, is for a very short time. So, you steamed, calcined or spilled the soil with potassium permanganate or fungicides, thus destroying everyone - both good and bad. In a few days, the first spores of fungi attacking from the air, bacterial cysts, will begin to germinate in the soil. And here someone alone will take over, filling the entire soil space in a very short time. The ability to multiply rapidly in sterile conditions, the absence of competitors and a good food base will make its population a leader.

Post-steaming toxicosis is eliminated by spilling the soil with Trichodermin and others. These preparations contain billions of spores of soil "defenders" in one gram. It is possible to recommend Phytolavin-300 containing the strain-producer of phytobacteriomycin. The microorganisms with which these preparations are saturated suppress the initial explosion in the number of leader populations after steaming, preventing further activation of the pathogenic flora.

A good prevention of rot is to spill the substrate with solutions of fungicidal and bactericidal preparations. The most commonly used - 3% solution hydrogen peroxide, solution furatsilina light yellow and pink-raspberry solution potassium permanganate. Fungus development or growing point rot is less likely if you spill the substrate while cooking phytosporin or trichodermin. When preparing the soil mixture, Fitosporin-M can be used in the form of a powder, this version of it is also commercially available. Apply 10 grams per approximately 6-7 liters of soil with thorough mixing.

White plaque on the surface of the earth in a pot can be caused by the development of fungal microflora from excessive watering, and in order to get rid of it, you need to water the plant only after the top layer of earth in the pot has dried. Gather the top soil and sprinkle with crushed activated charcoal in the pot, this prevents rotting and mold growth. Mold, even with ordinary watering, in especially sad cases, grows and permeates the entire earth in a pot. Then you need to replant, completely change the whole earth, use fungicides.

Sciarids (mushroom mosquito) often annoy violet growers. These are small flies flying around the outlet. Their larvae are dangerous - white worms 3-8 mm long with a dark head, damaging young roots and breaking the soil structure. This is where Grom-2 helps. Just powder the soil when kneading. If you do this regularly, then there will be no mosquitoes.

An example of the composition of soil for violets:

Greenword soil and Peat - 50%.

Perlite and Vermiculite - 20%.

Moss-Sphagnum or Coconut fiber - 20%.

Nutrient soil - 10% with the addition of crushed charcoal.

If necessary, a deoxidizer is added (dolomite flour or finely ground egg shells, in extreme cases, fluff lime). Number of components approx. For Saintpaulias of different ages, different varieties need different proportions. So the soil for rooting leaves and children should contain more baking powder.

Since the materials are bulk, you can measure them with any capacity - you can take a liter jar, and if you need a little substrate, you can take a glass or a mug. In other words, for 1 cup of nutrient soil, add 3 cups of Greenword soil, 2 cups of peat moss, 1 cup of perlite, 1 cup of vermiculite, 1 cup of sphagnum moss, 1 cup of coconut fiber, plus crushed charcoal. Remove all large fractions from purchased substrates with your hands: lumps, not rotted plant residues, sticks.

The above recipe is just one of many possible, it is not at all necessary to copy it with all care. So feel free to use this recipe as a starting point for your own compound soil. All these components can be mixed and their proportions and proportions in the mixture can be changed. Ready mix should turn out light, airy and fluffy, well-permeable to water and air, and so that as long as possible not caking.

Option for storing ready-made earth: they take a box from under the shoe (you can take any closed box), “dress” it in bags from the inside, and pour the earth into it. Close the box with a lid. Store so that the earth does not dry out and at the same time, so that there is air access.

For wick irrigation a soilless mixture based on peat is required, with the addition of a large number rippers. This is necessary so that the roots do not get stuck.

Continuation :

Violets are popular beautiful houseplants that require considerable effort from their owner to grow. In order for them to please with their decorative effect, you need to create a favorable microclimate for them and place them in the right conditions. Special Requirements this flower is pushing towards the soil.

Features of growing and caring for violets

The main conditions that need to be created for such flowers are warmth, bright light, high humidity. They need to be placed in a well-lit place with diffused lighting and at the same time protected from sun rays. Daylight hours should be 13-14 hours. AT winter time you need to install additional lighting.

The optimal place for the flower to grow is the northeast and northwest window sills. When grown on south side need shading.

Did you know?A collector from Odessa collected 3,500 varieties of violets in his apartment, including those grown by astronauts in orbit. This is the largest collection in Europe. It takes 800 liters of water a week for the grower to water the flowers, and he spends $ 30-40 a month on lighting them.

The best decorative effect and stable growth are observed in those plants that are grown at a temperature of + 20 ... + 22 ° С. Violets do not tolerate 3 care mistakes:

• excessive and frequent watering;
• exposure to drafts;
• severe drying of the soil.

Therefore, the flower must be protected from these factors.

Watering should be moderate and must be carried out in a pan or wick method (connecting a pot with violet and a container of water with a cord through which water seeps through). It is recommended to make 1-2 humidifications in 7 days.

For irrigation use rainwater, filtered or settled for 2 days, water at room temperature. After 30-40 minutes after humidification, the remaining water in the pan must be drained. Do not allow it to stagnate - this increases the risk of root rot.

The flower does not like spraying. To support the necessary high humidity air, at a level of 60-70%, you need to install a humidifier, wipe the leaves with a damp cloth, spray the air next to the flower so that drops do not fall on it, place the pot on a tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay.

Important! Watering the violet from above is not recommended. Droplets on leaves and stems can provoke the development of burns and rot.

During the growing season, flowers need to be fed. This will help preserve the beauty of the leaves, achieve a long and abundant flowering, bush health. At a young age, more nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied, at a mature age - potash and phosphorus. Use liquid root bait designed specifically for violets.
Violets degenerate very quickly and are usually renewed every 2-3 years. Transplantation is carried out once a year by the method of transshipment.

These flowers can grow in any pots - plastic or ceramic. But it is important to choose them according to the size of the plant, because in fairly large containers they will refuse to bloom, and in small ones they will grow poorly. It is also important that the pot has drainage holes.

In specialized stores, you can buy special pots for violets - they have a place to drain unwanted water and a special hole for supplying moisture.

The necessary composition of the soil for violets

For normal growth and the development of the flower, it needs a special soil - loose, light, with good air and water permeable properties. The level of its acidity should be in the range of 5.5–6.5 pH. Ignoring this indicator leads to the fact that the plant poorly absorbs nutrients from the soil and stops growing.

There may also be a change in the color of the leaves. Decrease in acidity is carried out by introducing into the soil dolomite flour. Increasing - mixing peat.

The soil mixture for planting violets should include the following mandatory components:

• nutrient soil;
• fillers;
• drainage.

nutrient soil

The basis of the soil mixture are:

• leaf land;
• turf.

Leafy soil is collected under deciduous trees. Sod - in areas where they grow perennial herbs. Soil should be taken in clean areas, away from landfills, garbage cans, polluting enterprises.
Biohumus and compost can also be considered as the main substrate.

Fillers

Fillers for soil for planting violets are:

• coniferous soil - it is extracted from the lower soil layer in areas where conifers grow;
• peat soil.

Moisture holders and leavening agents

The main mixture is supplemented with the following loosening components:

• vermiculite;
• perlite;
• charcoal;
• sand;
• moss-sphagnum;
• coconut fibre.

Good drainage is important for violets. It is necessary to drain water, prevent its stagnation and the development of rot.

Drainage is made from:

• expanded clay;
• pebbles;
• broken brick;
• coarse sand;
• charcoal.

How to choose ready-made purchased soil

The soil for planting flowers can be purchased at a specialized store. The packaging of suitable soil indicates: "Saintpaulia", "Violet", "For sowing seeds and planting seedlings."

The most popular manufacturers:

• ASP GREENWORLD;
• "Terra-vit";
• "Academy of Growth";
• "Beregina".

Purchased substrate has one important advantage- it is already etched and ready for planting. It does not contain bacteria, fungi, microbes, pests, so it does not need additional processing, it can only be doused with boiling water - while hand-made soil is subject to mandatory disinfection.

The disadvantage of this soil is that it is very light: when watering, all the water passes through it without stopping, and settles at the bottom. Because of this, many flower growers prefer to supplement the purchased soil with various additives.

One option: mix 5 liters of prepared soil with 0.5 liters of biohumus, 0.5 liters of perlite, 0.5 liters of vermiculite and 0.5 liters of finely chopped sphagnum. Such soil will have all the necessary properties for the comfortable growth of violets.

Also, some flower growers buy a base under the ground and add elements like the above to it to improve performance. Usually they take soil from high-moor peat.

Did you know? Violet is valued for its delicate fragrance. Violet smell is included in perfume compositions by famous perfume brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, Hugo Boss, Elizabeth Arden, Gucci, Christian Dior.

How to make a substrate with your own hands at home

There are several recipes for making potting mix for violets. Each of the owners of violets can choose a ready-made one or make their own by combining the ingredients listed above. The main thing is to end up with a loose, light, homogeneous substrate that can conduct air and water well to the root system.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with one of the most accessible recipes.

Do-it-yourself soil mix for violets: video

It will require:

• light loose ready-made substrate on high-moor peat with a content of nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and trace elements - 10 l;
• crushed Activated carbon- several tablets;
• agroperlite - 1-2 pinches;
• vermiculite - 1-2 pinches.

All ingredients are combined in one container and mixed well.

Important! When working with components, it is necessary to protect hands with rubber gloves, and the respiratory tract with a respirator. Dust from agroperlite microparticles can settle in the lungs and cause serious harm to human health.

What fertilizers do violets need

Both purchased and self-made soil must be fertilized before planting. For top dressing use charcoal, ash. It is also recommended to add crushed eggshell as a source of calcium and potassium.

If it is problematic to get the above elements, then in the store you can buy ready-made mineral supplements and complex fertilizers.

Land laying technology

Do-it-yourself soil must be disinfected - poured with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate or calcined in an oven (microwave) at a temperature of +90 ... + 100 ° С.

After the earth has been disinfected or spilled with boiling water, it must be left for a month so that it restores its properties. Then it is fertilized and the process of laying in a pot begins.
The laying technology is as follows:

1. Lay a drainage layer on the bottom, which should occupy 1/3 of the height of the pot.
2. Cover with a small layer of soil.
3. Install violet roots.
4. Cover with the remaining earth, without tamping it down.

When placing a flower in the ground, it is necessary to ensure that the growth point is not covered, the roots are not bent and lower leaves did not touch the ground. The first watering will need to be done after a week, and the first top dressing - not earlier than 2 weeks later (if additional fertilizers were not applied at planting).

Summing up, we note that the cultivation of violets is associated with certain troubles. The most important thing is to choose the right place for it with good lighting and the soil recommended for its composition, as well as to ensure competent watering. But all care efforts are more than offset by the unique look of bright and profusely blooming violets.

As for the size, it is worth choosing only dense leaves, of medium size, since too small ones do not have enough minerals and organic matter for a good start.

Color plays an important role when choosing. As you know, the main indicator of a large amount of accumulated chlorophyll is the dark green color of the plate. If they are yellowed, then there is nothing to hope for an excellent bush - basically it dies even before rooting begins. Even if this does not happen and any activity appears, then there may not be new children - the bush will remain in hibernation for a long time.

Methods for planting violets and a detailed description of the process

Saintpaulias can be bred with pre-soaking and germination in water, and with direct planting in the soil. The first method is less complicated and will suit you if you have just started breeding this type of plant. It is better not to choose the second method if you are not confident in your abilities, since it is very difficult to get offspring and even the master does not always succeed.

Let's take a closer look at what needs to be done and how to plant Saintpaulia in order to get something out of it.

STEP 1 soil preparation.

Many people wonder what land to plant violets in and whether it is worth oversaturating it with a growth stimulant and universal fertilizer. In fact, there are a lot of secrets on how to create soil, and each gardener has their own. But there are those basic principles that must not be violated. Firstly, it is necessary to monitor the air permeability and friability of the soil, since it is simply impossible to grow Saintpaulia in heavy soil and without oxygen. It also requires increased fertilizer with potassium and phosphorus so that the rooting process is as efficient as possible. Let's not forget about nitrogen fertilizers, especially in the early stages, since the size of the future plant, as well as the intensity of the formation of chlorophyll and other organic substances, depend on them.

The soil should be free of any kind of pests and pest larvae. To do this, it is advisable to ignite the earth in the oven (if you plant flowers in small pots). Baking powder is also required. Normal will do river sand, preferably a large fraction, so that there is good drainage when watering.

STEP 2 we root the leaf plate in a vessel with water.

First you need to get planting material and do it, of course, on an already growing bush. With a sharp secateurs or knife, it is necessary to cut the cutting, approximately at an angle of 45%. It is very important that the cut is as even as possible, and the edges are not “chewed”. You can leave the length of the handle up to 4 centimeters, you can not make it too short. Next, you need to dry the leaf itself a little, while feeding the stalk with moisture. Any dish is suitable for this, preferably a saucepan with a lid so that too much sunlight does not fall on the planting material. It is necessary to remember about the disinfection of the material - dip the sheet into the solution blue vitriol, saline solution or soapy. This is done so that the pests that may be there are destroyed.

Water should be at least 25 degrees, since with relative coolness, rotting processes begin, and rooting does not occur. At the same time, it is necessary to constantly monitor the petiole, because if it starts to rot at the very tip, it must be cut off by 5-7 millimeters. You may need to do this every 5-6 days. The change of water occurs immediately after circumcision, you can add growth stimulants (5 grams per 10 liters). There is no point in waiting for children. It is only necessary that the first roots from the plate start up, and you can already plant it.

How to plant a violet leaf directly into the ground - a detailed guide

Stock up on disposable plastic cups - these are the cheapest "pots" you can find on the market. There is no need for larger vessels, since we only need to root the leaf blade, and not grow a daughter plant. Consider the procedure for making soil in a glass.

1. We make 3-4 holes at the bottom of the vessel so that water can freely pass through the glass and does not remain in the soil. The holes should be from 3 to 5 mm so that the mixture that you will lay on the bottom does not wake up.
2. Pour ¼ of a plastic cup with expanded clay chips (about 3-4 millimeters in diameter, a little more). It will allow you to leave the holes in the bottom open and will not allow the earth to clog them over time.
3. Pour ¼ of the glass with sand, on top of expanded clay chips. It will play the role of a baking powder, and will protect the soil from cracking and the formation of lumps from the ground. Any sand can be used, including ordinary construction sand, the main thing is flowability.
4. Pour fertile soil, which will take ½ cup. This should be done without compaction, the water itself will seat the soil in the right place after the first watering. In the fertile layer, many gardeners place a layer of moss and vermiculite - they allow oxygen to pass freely, which is very important for the roots.

The earth should be constantly wet, since the first 2-3 weeks the babies will be very weak and a lot of nutrients and oxygen are needed to break through to the light. If the soil is very wet and loose, then there are plenty of chances to get high-quality “offspring”.

In order to plant a plant in the soil, you must first make a stand for it. To do this, pour all the above components into a glass, but last layer do not add 3-4 centimeters. This is where we put the leaf, after which we sprinkle it a little on top of the earth. The sheet must first undergo a disinfection procedure. To do this, use a solution of copper sulfate, salt baths and other methods convenient for you.

We pay special attention to watering, as it is a little unusual. It is impossible to water the glass from above, as this will lead to soil subsidence, which will have a very bad effect on the health of children who do not receive enough oxygen. You have to water from below. We lower the plastic glass ½ into the water, and wait 5 minutes until the whole earth is saturated with moisture through the holes in the bottom of the glass. After that, we put the container again on the windowsill or in the sun so that the earth warms up well. When the first leaves appear from the ground, they can be watered from above, but only with a sprayer, saturating the ground. In no case do not pour with a jet from the vessel!

Before planting saintpaulias, you need to choose a place without drafts and without direct sunlight, since they are the primary cause of death for young saintpaulias. Plants also do not grow in full shade, so you need to choose the optimal ratio of lightening the area and the absence of direct sunlight. In such conditions, mold sometimes appears on top of the soil. You can, of course, use chemistry, as many inexperienced gardeners do, but the easiest way is to pour 1 cm of earth on top and that's it. After 3 months of caring for young saintpaulias, it will be possible to begin to separate them from the mother leaf and transplant them into similar cups with the same soil. Over time, when they grow up, land in vessels with a larger capacity or in open ground.

How to plant Saintpaulia grown in a glass in the soil?

If you still do not know how to properly plant a violet grown in a glass or in a container of water, you need to learn a few basic rules for this process. They will help not to destroy the flowers when separating a leaf from them for propagation.

1. You can not cut off the "young growth" with a knife. The separation is carried out in the process of loosening the area around the young with a needle. After the soil is sufficiently downy so that you can easily take the plant, you need to carefully detach the violet roots from its “neighbor”. You can choose a plant from a group, so you can separate the weakest saintpaulias and discard them. This way you kill two birds with one stone: separate the roots desired plant without any damage, and also you will not grow weak violets, which are formed from underdeveloped babies.
2. The outlet should not be deepened too much - there is a risk of root rot. It is also not worth raising it high, it is necessary that the level of the lateral roots be 1.5-2 centimeters below the soil. New bushes are being watered warm water, at about 30-35 degrees, and it is better for them to spend the first weeks of their life under a film to avoid soil evaporation. Airing 1 time in 2-3 days is a must!
3. It is impossible to transplant into a large pot immediately after separation; you must wait until the moment when the diameter of the pot is 2 times smaller than the Saintpaulia rosette. Only then can you think about moving your pet.

Even if the plant is strong enough to tolerate any kind of change, the wrong transplant can significantly slow down its growth and even cause death.

Transfer

« Moving to new house happens for several reasons:

• if the plant is large for the vessel in which it was placed;
• if the soil has changed its composition and the plant begins to disappear;
• and if the stalk is constantly sluggish and does not show any vital activity;
• Saintpaulias are often transplanted as a preventive measure every 2-3 years.

Let's take a closer look at the transfer process.

1. If, due to a flower disease, or simply for aesthetic reasons (so that there is no bare stem), you decide to transplant it, then you need to know a few basic rules. They will help keep the plant alive.
2. Transplantation into ceramic pots (it is better not to use others) is carried out only in the spring, and early. In winter, you can not transplant, even if the temperature is high - sunlight is important here, not heat.
3. The earth ball should be of medium humidity, that is, not dry (otherwise the roots will be damaged) and not too wet.
4. If before this inflorescence grew in plastic cups or temporary vessels, you can not pull them out of them, but simply cut the vessel itself with a sharp knife, after which the earth will crumble and the plant will be bare. Thus, there is no risk of damage to the root system.
5. There must be high-quality drainage in the new place, and without it it is impossible even to transplant for a while, since the flower will need a lot of moisture and abundant watering. Drainage should be high, up to 1/3 of a pot if an adult flower is grown.
6. Depth to be placed root system, choose separately in each case. Best Option it is considered when the petioles of the lower leaves lightly touch the soil.

Violets are demanding on the composition of the soil. On inappropriate soil, they will quickly die or grow weak. Its quality depends not only appearance but also plant health. At proper care and the content of flowering is abundant and long, and the greenery acquires a rich shade. In ordinary soil, violets do not take root well and stop blooming.

Growing violets

Growing violets requires knowledge and time. Well-groomed plants look bright and spectacular, and their flowers and leaves almost completely cover the pot or flowerpot in which they grow. In order to achieve this result, you need to know a few subtleties:

• violets do not need a large pot: seedlings and young flowers have enough capacity of 5-6 cm in diameter, adults - up to 10-12 cm;
• for abundant flowering maintain a constant temperature of 20-25 degrees throughout the year;
• the plant is watered as the topsoil dries up, but waterlogging should not be allowed.

The soil for violets should be light and loose, pass air and moisture. To do this, holes must be made in the pot for outflow. excess fluid, and drainage is laid out at the bottom of the pot. These plants prefer slightly acidic soil, its pH should be in the range of 5.5-6.5.

Soil composition

Under natural conditions, violets grow in forest areas, along roads and near water bodies, as well as in the mountains. Its roots are not very long and developed, so at home it can be planted in small and shallow pots (the ratio between the leaf rosette and the pot is 3:1). The soil for this plant can be prepared independently, but it will differ from mixtures that are suitable for other decorative flowers.

It will consist of several parts:

1. Nutrient part of the soil - elements that contain maximum amount substances for growth. These include leaf or sod land, as well as organic additives (humus, humus, compost).
2. Fillers are the basis of purchased soils. In most purchased mixtures, they are represented by peat, and at home you can use coniferous land- layer of soil underneath coniferous trees with broken needles.
3. Baking powders - perlite (silica in granules), vermiculite (hydromica), sphagnum (a kind of moss) or dolomite (limestone). At home, you can use charcoal or purchased expanded clay as drainage - they absorb liquid well.

Important! Outdoor soil is not suitable for growing violets. It is better to use purchased mixtures - they are cleaned of pests, mold and fungus that cause various diseases.

Ready mixes

On the packaging of the mixtures it is indicated that they are intended specifically for violets. Such a soil is light, loose, well passes air and absorbs excess moisture. The bottom of the pot can be additionally lined with a layer of drainage (2-3 cm).

Advice! Store mixes are prepared without adding earth. At home, it is difficult to find the ingredients in the required proportions, so it is easier to buy ready-made soil.

Flower Happiness (Fasco)

Primer "Flower Happiness" from Fasco is suitable for growing all varieties of violets, for seedlings and adult plants. It contains peat as a baking powder, but in small quantities. During watering, it passes moisture well, and it completely saturates the soil. Before planting the plant, the bottom of the pot is lined with a layer of drainage (it is better to use expanded clay), then the plant is placed and the gaps are filled with earth.

Biosoil Ecoflora (Hera)

Soil for violets from the Ukrainian manufacturer "Ecoflora" is suitable for growing adult plants, as well as for germinating seeds. It is made on the basis of peat of different stages of decomposition, as well as a complex of all necessary substances. The soil is light and nutritious, promotes the organic development of the root system and the green mass of plants. On sale you can find packages of this soil of any volume: 2.5 l, 3 l, 3.5 l, 5 l and others.

Soil Biud

The mixture does not contain artificial mineral fertilizers but rich in organic nutrients. The composition of this soil includes minerals and peat, as well as an organic additive based on horse manure. The BIUD soil is completely cleared of pathogens various diseases and does not require prior preparation. However, beneficial soil microorganisms that improve the nutrition of violets are fully preserved.

Soil Veltorf

Suitable for planting different varieties of violets, their seedlings and seeds, as well as some other flowers. It is based on high-moor peat, baking powder, dolomite compounds and a complex of minerals. Here are nitrogen, potassium and magnesium in sufficient quantities. The soil does not need additional preparation - just moisten it a little and plant the plants.

Primer Morris Green

It is popular due to its good value for money. It consists of high-moor peat at a low stage of decomposition, also present here root dressing and an additive that improves soil properties.

Minerals are presented in a prolonged form, so they continue to act for a long time. This reduces the need for additional fertilization and increases the allowable time for flowers to be in one pot.

Ground Peter Peat

Complex peat soil from Russian manufacturer on which violets can grow without additional fertilization. It is inexpensive, but high-quality, practically does not contain impurities. For home use, you can buy it in small containers, but there are options for 10 liters.

Do-it-yourself soil

Soil for violets can be prepared at home, but this is a rather laborious process. Choosing the right ingredients and combining them in the right proportions is not enough - you will also need to neutralize them from pests.

The soil in which violets will feel comfortable can be prepared according to the following recipe:

• mix universal soil with peat in a ratio of 1: 2;
• add 1 part perlite (you can use sphagnum or vermiculite instead) and 1/2 portion of charcoal;
• you can add a small amount of coconut fiber.

Conclusion

Violets are very demanding plants. The main condition for their long and abundant flowering is the right soil. It should maximally repeat the natural growth conditions of these plants, be light and absorb moisture well. In such soil, violet care is minimized, and the flowers are large and bright.

Uzambara violet - incredibly beautiful indoor plant, which has with flowers of various shades and leaves a simple and unusual shape. AT indoor floriculture this is one of the most popular plants, but to achieve lush flowering not always easy, for this she needs to create suitable conditions . When grown at home Special attention and should be given to the choice of pot, soil and rack.

If you want the plant to please with stable flowering, you will have to pay attention to it.

How to properly care in a pot so that the violet blooms

When planting a violet, you need to choose the right pot or planter for it. In a container that is too spacious, it is difficult to achieve flowering at home, since all the forces will be spent on the formation of green mass. In addition, the earth in a large pot does not have time to dry out, which causes rotting of the roots and root collar, and consequently, the death of the plant.

Old leaves are removed. They not only spoil the appearance of the plant, but also take away nutrients.

In addition, damaged leaves cause the spread of disease. For lush flowering, faded flowers are removed.

In order for growth to occur symmetrically, the plant is periodically rotated. However, when the buds began to appear, it is better not to move from the usual place. You can only move it for a while, for example, if you need to decorate a festive table.

The difference in indoor flower care in summer and winter

This plant may continue to bloom. up to 10 months, but this is when there is enough light and a suitable temperature.

in winter after all, it is worth giving the plants a rest so that next season the flowering is plentiful, and the plants are not depleted. In the cold season it is important protect the plant from low temperatures and drafts. Violets are thermophilic and love comfortable conditions.

The soil should not be supercooled either, therefore, if the window sill is cold, it is better to make a heat-insulating stand for flowers, for which foam is suitable.

Dangerous for violets and dry air coming from radiators. Since these are plants of moist edges, dry air will spoil their appearance, and budding will not occur.

In winter time especially over watering is dangerous, which is usually neglected by novice flower growers without training. The death of the plant in this case is inevitable.

In summer, it is time for the plant to bloom and active growth. At this time it is required good watering, lots of ambient light and nutrient intake.

Proper watering of the plant

Violet loves water, but does not like to be flooded. is important because both excess moisture or lack of moisture will lead to problems in cultivation. At the violets rots easily root neck . Especially dangerous is the ingress of water into the outlet.

When the top soil dries out, water is poured into the pan. After a while, the top of the soil will become dark, which means that moisture is coming up. Another way is to dip the pot for a while in a large container of water just below the top level of the soil, then let the excess moisture drain. Water should be at room temperature or slightly warmer. It is better to take settled.

The best way for watering - from the pallet.

The need for watering is determined by the change in the weight of the pot - it becomes noticeably lighter, as well as the color of the earth.

Another convenient watering option - wick. It is often used for miniature varieties when there are too many plants or you need to leave for a few days. You will need a permeable tourniquet (you can take thick gauze). One end of the wick digs into the ground, the other goes down in a bucket of water. The water should be just above the level of the pots. Moisture gradually enters the ground along the bundle, providing constant watering.

The flower is also demanding on air humidity. However, you can not spray it - this will lead to spots on the leaves. The best way to increase humidity is to place water containers or special humidifiers nearby.

Ideal home lighting and temperature

Most optimum temperature- 20-22 degrees. In the heat, when around 30, flowering may slow down. Bad for violets and low temperature air. Lighting required 10-12 hours a day, especially in winter and autumn, then the violet blooms actively and luxuriantly.

You can not put the uzambar violet in the open sun - the leaves get burned, turn yellow, die, and flowering is reduced.

The best location is north. The south window will not work, on this side the plant is placed in the back of the room. In the east and west, you should shade from the direct sun; light curtains or blinds are suitable for this purpose.
Violet grows well under artificial light.

Backlight lamps usually use mercury 36 or 40 watts. Special lamps of the "flora" type are also suitable, containing the ultraviolet spectrum and having a pink glow, which is not always pleasant for humans, but useful for plants.

What kind of pot do you need

Abundant flowering in a large container is difficult to achieve. Violet blooms well if it is a bit crowded. For children, a pot of 5-6 cm is taken, for adults - 10-12 cm. This applies to varieties standard sizes. For a miniature, even in adulthood, you will need a small container with a diameter of 5 cm.

The pots themselves are better to take plastic where plants do best.

The choice of land and soil

Ready-made land for violets is sold in stores, but you can make it yourself.

If you take earth and sand from the street, they must be disinfected. To do this, the soil is calcined in the oven or spilled with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

The earth should be loose, retain moisture well and be breathable. To create friability, coarse river sand, perlite, fine expanded clay or vermiculite are added. The addition of coal is also useful - it additionally protects the roots from rot.

At the bottom of the growing container must have drainage. Small expanded clay is suitable for these purposes.

Soil composition:

• coniferous land
• sod land
• leaf ground
• Sand or other baking powder

The soil should be slightly acidic. If necessary, you can feed your plant with fertilizers. Best score for violets - 5.5 - 6.5 Ph. You can find out the acidity with indicators that are sold in stores.

What they love

Uzambara violet is a plant that loves care and does not tolerate neglect.

How to prepare for winter

With the onset of cold weather, you should consider how to contain the plants so that they do not die, and in the new season the buds open.

• A place is chosen where there will be no drafts, cold in winter and radiators.
• Additional lamps are installed if there is very little light in winter.
• Old leaves are removed.

It is necessary to decide Do I need to bloom in winter or should I let the plant rest?. The second option is better for more enhanced laying of new buds.

What to choose from tools: shelves, racks

Professional flower growers keep Uzambara violet on special racks. This allows you to create ideal conditions, constant lighting and the absence of drafts.

The racks should be such that it is convenient to take care of the plants, and the developing specimens do not interfere with each other. Usually on each level hanging fluorescent lamps or "flora", since natural light in such an arrangement may not be enough.

Lamps should be installed so that they do not burn the leaves, but at the same time there is enough light. Depending on the power - 20 - 30 cm from the plant.

put violets Can also be used on regular stands for flowers. This arrangement is convenient if the window is south. Stands are purchased in the store - beautiful cast iron options, or you can make them yourself from wood.

On the north window, if it is sufficiently insulated, you can attach several shelves. So additional lighting not needed, natural light will suffice.

How to prevent diseases and pests

Unfortunately, completely it is impossible to protect a flower from pests. Any new plant that is brought into the home is carefully inspected and quarantined for at least two weeks. They put it to the main collection only after it is certain that no insects have been brought with them.

In addition to pests, viral and bacterial infections are dangerous. If rot, strange spots appear on some specimen, it should be immediately isolated from the main collection.

Violets are very sensitive to excess moisture, especially miniature varieties.

It is impossible to flood these plants; as a rule, it is not possible to save a dying specimen.

Reproduction at home

Usambara violet is easy to breed stem cuttings, leaf and stepchildren.

cuttings

The sheet is taken not young, but not too old. A petiole 2-4 cm long is left on it, depending on the variety, the cut is made with a sharp blade at an angle.

The leaf is installed in a jar of water, but so that only the petiole is immersed.

The second option is planting a root-treated sheet in perlite

Another option is to sprinkle the cut with coal or Kornevin, plant it in sand, perlite or light earth to a depth of 1.5-2 cm. Cover it with a transparent cap from above, which is periodically ventilated and wiped from condensate. It is necessary to water the soil very carefully, the humidity should be moderate.

Miniature varieties breed only by placing in sand or soil- it is almost impossible to achieve the formation of roots in water.

When new plants begin to form, violets transplanted to a permanent place. In this case, the mother leaf should not be rushed to be removed, especially in variegated varieties. Babies appear in about a month and a half.

stepchildren

For this type of breeding, you will need an adult, well-grown specimen.

Over time, stepchildren are formed at the violet, that is, several small plants next to the main. They are separated during transplantation and planted in a small pot. This method of propagation is faster than cuttings.

Leaf blades

For reproduction in this way use part of the sheet. The leaf blade is cut into fragments, while each piece must contain a vein, it is she who will form the roots. The parts are dried in air for 20 minutes, then planted in light soil.

A mixture of perlite, sand, with the addition of peat is suitable. Wet the soil slightly. Fragments deepen half a centimeter. From above it is covered with a greenhouse. It is better to make the lower cut straight, and not at an angle, so it is more likely that new children will appear from each vein.

Large specimens are sometimes re-rooted if they have lost their appearance or the trunk has begun to rot. To do this, cut off the top with a sharp scalpel, sprinkle with crushed coal and plant it in a hole filled with perlite. Water carefully at first.

Transfer

Manipulations with make in the spring, before flowering.

• Holding the outlet with one hand, gently pull it out of the pot with the other, tapping if the soil has become dense.
• AT new pot fall asleep partially fresh soil, hold the violet over the center of the pot, gradually adding potting soil and shaking the pot.
• Water carefully.

Young sockets are transplanted when their size reaches about one and a half pot diameters.

A new plant is planted in a container of about 7 cm.

Violet - favorite plant many generations. It is the decoration of any room. They also use it on the festive table instead of bouquets. Growing a violet is not easy, but it thanks to its bright and unusual flowering, and there are so many varieties of it that the collection can be replenished endlessly.