The apple tree dries up in spring: what to do. Why raspberries dry and what to do? Deepening the root collar

Drying of leaves and branches of an apple tree is a very common problem among owners of a summer cottage.

And before looking for a solution to this problem, you should know all the nuances and features of your climate zone.

Based on this, a plant variety should already be selected.

Planting an apple tree will also vary according to the type of climate.

Although the apple tree is a fairly unpretentious and resistant plant, in especially cold areas, it is recommended to plant semi-cultivated varieties.

For cold climates ideal option, there will be a variety - "Ranetka".

Planting time for apple trees is spring and autumn. Some gardeners plant an apple tree in the summer, but this is rather an exception to the rule. Summer planting has many disadvantages before autumn and especially spring planting.

When to plant an apple tree? spring planting, apple trees tend to tolerate better. Planting in the spring gives more chances for a large garden. In addition, closer to winter, your trees will be already formed and strong, which will allow them to safely survive the winter cold. But autumn planting, is useful in that the tree, if it takes root, will be stronger and more stable.

There are several ways to plant apple trees. Consider the most popular.

1. Pit for planting, prepared at least a week in advance. Depth, the pit should be at least - 60 cm, diameter, about the same. The earth from the upper layer should be placed separately from the lower one and not mixed.

2. A peg is driven into the bottom of the pit to support the seedling. Consider its length, the peg should rise 35 cm above the ground.

4. After a week, you can plant an apple tree. Don't forget to tie it to the peg.

The apple tree has dried up: why?

There can be many reasons for drying up. But first, exclude the most simple options. Make sure that the planting of the apple tree has been done - right. Also, the reason that the apple tree withered may be other large plants that grow too close to the root system of the apple tree. These plants can take a large number of moisture and spoil the roots of the apple tree, which leads to its drying and disease. Therefore, the solution to the problem may be getting rid of closely growing plants or transplanting an apple tree to a new place.

Also, the cause of a shrunken tree may be high-standing groundwater. Oddly enough at first glance, but precisely because of the abundance of water in the soil, the apple tree begins to dry out. This happens because excess water begins to displace air from the soil, which is so necessary for the root system. Therefore, the apple tree begins to “suffocate” and may soon die. The solution is to transplant an apple tree, loosen the soil or replace the soil for the root system. In addition, for greater efficiency, you can dig special drainage ditches, which will take away excess groundwater from the roots.

But most importantly, the soil must “breathe”. Therefore, it is not allowed to find layers of sand, heavy clay, crushed stone and gravel in the planting area. Young apple trees can probably survive this because their roots are high and not yet deep enough, and there is always a lot of air in the upper layers of the soil. But for mature trees, this is extremely harmful, because they root system, goes to the very depths. And the older the tree, the more likely it is that the apple tree will dry out.

Even on loose and even soil, there may be “surprises” in the form of clay layers.

The landing site may not be profitable due to the recesses in which it will drain rainwater and moisture accumulates, thereby again displacing oxygen from the soil. So, apple trees standing on the same soil may differ due to deep landscapes. Therefore, it is important, before planting, to study the place and make sure it is safe for the tree, this will save you time and effort.

The leaves of a young apple tree have dried up: what to do - weather reasons

If everything is in order with the place and method of planting, then the reason why the leaves of the apple tree have dried up may be weather and climatic conditions. This is especially noticeable in the southern hot regions, where the temperature can easily reach +40 degrees. The scorching rays of the sun will dry the leaves, evaporating moisture from them. On the branches of an apple tree Sun rays, practically do not affect in this way.

Too dry air, even in not too hot weather, can also contribute to this phenomenon. Although apple trees are unpretentious and highly resistant to dryness, nevertheless, a minimum level of humidity must be maintained both in the air, so that the leaves of the apple tree do not dry out, and in the soil itself, for the root system. Exit: regular spraying and sprinkling.

The branches of the old apple tree withered: what to do?

Drying of branches is a more serious problem than just dried leaves. Here, most likely, the matter is in the disease. One of the most common options is cytosporosis. At the same time, the bark of the tree dries up in some areas, the branches dry near the apple tree, in some places dark tubercles and dry growths appear. Cytosporosis is quite difficult to detect on young plants, on the bark and branches that have not yet formed.

You can solve the problem only by removing the affected areas of the tree. So you can protect the tree from further infection. If the infection penetrates too far, into the tree, then it can no longer be saved.

The apple tree dries up: pests and diseases

Most often, drying out of a tree is caused by pathogenic infections and various small pests. We will analyze the most common diseases and how to treat them.

1. Black cancer. A very serious disease that requires immediate intervention. You can recognize him by such signs as: black spots on the foliage, branches dry near the apple tree, black ulcers and rot appear on the bark. There is only one way out - so that the apple tree does not dry out completely, you need to cut off the infected branches and remove the ulcerative areas, this is the only way to save the tree.

2. Scab. This infection causes damage to the leaves, slows down the growth of fruits and spoils them. It is easy to recognize it brown spots on the foliage, which subsequently dry the leaf.

The solution is the processing of foliage with Topaz or Hom.

3. Powdery mildew. A fairly common disease that infects tree buds, bark, shoots and foliage. Signs powdery mildew: White, gray and brown coating on leaves and buds, sometimes dark dots appear, there are no fruits, the tree dries up. After establishing this diagnosis, treatment consists in treatment with special solutions. For these purposes, "Skor" or "Topaz" is perfect.

With pests, everything is also not easy.

1. Aphids and ants. If ants have settled in your garden, then there will be aphids. Therefore, it is necessary to destroy the first. For this, there are special poisons and traps for ants. Aphids are destroyed by special solutions.

2. Caterpillars. Exists great amount types. It is easy to fight - the cobweb on the branches is destroyed, preferably by fire, and then the apple tree is treated with a solution of karbofos.

3. Tick, leafworm, codling moth. The presence of ticks can be told by the web on the leaves and branches, the other two “comrades” are more difficult to recognize if you do not see small caterpillars. To destroy these pests, spraying with a solution of nitrofen, chlorophos or karbofos is suitable. Larvae and eggs, if found, are destroyed by fire.

The apple tree has dried up: what to do - if the reasons are not established

If you cannot establish the reason why the leaves of the apple tree have dried up or the branches of the apple tree are drying, then we advise you to contact experienced gardeners and ask questions on gardening forums by posting pictures of your problem.

Do not sit back when the apple tree dries up, be sure to find the reason!

The main reason is verticillium wilt.

AT last years cases of sweet cherry disease with verticillium have become more frequent, which leads to premature drying out of both individual branches and the tree as a whole.

On young trees (3-7 years old), the disease begins in the spring, the apical buds of bouquet twigs turn black and do not bloom one or two weeks before flowering, withering of the inflorescences is often observed. When carefully examined on the tree trunk, in the forks and on the skeletal branches, you can find subtle depressed stripes and spots of a rusty-brown color. different size. Such spots can from time to time be separated from the living tissue by cracks from which the gum flows. The disease is active. If not accepted preventive measures, the tree may die in the current growing season.

In trees older than 7 years, the disease turns into an acquired form: necrotic lesions form on the bark of the trunk and scedate branches. The bark around it cracks and exfoliates from the tree species in the form of continuous longitudinal strips, forming depressions from which gum flows abundantly. Uniformly growing wounds completely cover the affected part of the plants, mushrooms settle on them. Trees slowly dry out over 10-15 years.

Problem Solving

To prevent early drying of the cherry, you need to make the following requirements. On the site where it grows, you can not grow nightshade, vegetable, gourds, strawberries, sunflowers, in other words, plants that are very affected by verticillium wilt - they can be a source of infection.
The soil for cherries should be breathable. Cherry does not tolerate languid clay soils, solonchak and "alkaline lands, with a close level of occurrence are also undesirable ground water that worsen the aeration of the root system. Based own experience, I plant trees in the fall, with all this I place the root neck at a depth of 4-5 cm from the surface of the earth. I perform formative pruning of trees in the summer (end of May-August), when the development of microbes is inhibited highest temperature air. Cutting tool disinfect with 10% substance blue vitriol, formalin or carbolic acid. I certainly cover the sections with garden pitch or alkyd paint.
In order to protect trees from sunburn and frost cracks, which contribute to the development of verticillium wilt, in autumn and in winter-spring time I spend whitewashing the trunks and bases of skeletal branches with a 20% lime substance with the addition of a 2% solution of copper sulphate. I clean the gum ulcers and cover them with clay and mullein putty (1: 1), also adding a 2% solution of copper sulphate to it. After heavy rains in August-September and first leaf fall, I spray with 1% Bordeaux liquid or cuproxate. In October - two more treatments with the same products with an interval of 15 days.
In the spring, to disinfect the apical buds, on which the pathogen overwinters, I spray the trees with 3% Bordeaux liquid or cuproxate. Immediately after the end of flowering, during the period of intense infection with leaf diseases, I spray with polychoma (40 g), cuproxate (35 ml), radomil (40 g) or polycarbacin (40 g). In late July - early August, I repeat spraying with the same products. Reduced complex protective measures it is also effective in the early drying of apricots and other fruit trees.

Cherry is the name of a fruit and tree from the Rosaceae family, belongs to the genus Plum. the oldest

To see a drying apple tree in your garden is not such a rarity, unfortunately. It can happen in any climate zone, on any soil, and even when the gardener, it would seem, takes care of the garden in accordance with all the rules. You can understand why the apple tree began to dry out by certain signs: a change in the color of the leaves, the appearance of spots on the bark, etc. If you find out the cause of this phenomenon, you can not only save the tree, but also prevent similar cases in the future.

Deviations in the development of a tree, its growth and vital activity are influenced by several factors, which may also have a combined character. With a certain degree of conventionality, they can be divided into several groups:

atmospheric and climatic conditions;
soil features;
improper fit and care;
diseases;
pests.

The convention of separation means that often these prerequisites for the drying of the apple tree are combined with each other, or one entails the other. For example, diseases can be caused by pests or adverse environmental conditions and are simply outward manifestations of the original cause. Therefore, in any case, you need to carefully study all the reasons in order to completely eliminate adverse factors.

Both excessive heat and a very cold climate can adversely affect the fruit tree. Therefore, purchase seedlings of only zoned varieties. Breeders breed such varieties, taking into account which climatic zone is most favorable for the growth and development of this apple tree. In very cold climates, it is likely that the tree at some stage in its development will begin to dry out after frostbite, if it is accepted at all.

During prolonged severe frosts, the tree may suffer, so-called frost cracks, or frost cracks, may appear on it. They occur due to the fact that the moisture contained in the wood freezes and breaks the fibers. If the cracks that form are not overgrown, fungus can get there and destroy the wood. Mulching saves from frost, wrapping the trunk, throwing snow at the trunk (it needs to be slightly trampled down).

Soil features

An apple tree will dry out if it is planted in soil with a high content of:

sand;
heavy clay;
rubble and gravel.

A high aquifer also adversely affects the tree: soil saturated with moisture does not allow the roots to breathe, as water displaces air and the roots begin to rot. Alternatively, you can make drainages in the soil, but this is troublesome and time consuming, so it is better not to plant apple trees in such places.

An apple tree can also dry out due to the fact that there is not enough soil in the soil. nutrients and minerals. This is especially pronounced during potassium starvation: the leaves begin to dry out. With starvation of magnesium and nitrogen, as well as with chlorosis, the leaves turn yellow. When these signs appear, appropriate fertilizers and fertilizing should be applied to the soil.

When planting seedlings, you need to remember that the root system of an apple tree is twice as wide as its crown, and the root system goes into the ground to a depth of 60 cm or more. Therefore, it is necessary to take into account the height at which water stands in the ground.

The tree can dry out due to "root competition" if the seedling is planted too close to other trees. It is also undesirable to sow some herbal crops under the apple tree that can poison the apple tree with the products of their vital activity (for example, couch grass and timothy grass).

The landing time is also important - this is spring and autumn. Apple trees planted in summer are more likely to suffer from drying out of leaves and branches. If the seedling is planted in the spring, it takes root much better. Trees planted in autumn are more resistant to weather conditions and to various diseases.

Such oversights as improper grafting or pruning of branches, or excessive use of chemical substances(fertilizers, pesticides, etc.). Incorrectly processed cuts can be affected by diseases and cause the overlying twigs and foliage to dry out.

Most often, the apple tree is affected by black cancer. This is a fungal disease that affects the tree completely. In addition, drying leads to:

scab;
powdery mildew.

In the last two cases, processing helps special preparations and destruction of the affected parts of the tree. With cancer, only the radical removal of the affected parts helps, and it is necessary to cut off the diseased branch with a margin, since the causative agent of the disease can spread through the tree. On the trunk, visible spots and rot must be cut and scraped to healthy wood, after which it should be processed and covered with any suitable remedy- from special artificial compounds to a simple garden pitch or even clay.

From insect pests, trees should be treated with pesticides or other means in the spring, before flowering begins. Upon detection of cobwebs, caterpillars, etc. you need to remove them from the apple tree along with the affected leaves. There are also rodent pests, both underground and aboveground. Underground (for example, moles) are taken out with the help of chemicals and traps, and aboveground (hares, etc.) do not touch trunks whitewashed with lime.

Why apple trees dry up Black cancer of an apple tree: video

If young apple trees begin to dry out, then the reason may be:

disease;
frostbite;
malnutrition;
damage to the root system.

After clarifying the disease, the tree must be treated. If it's the roots, check the water table, drain, fertilize.

Old apple trees can dry out both from diseases and simply from old age. Do not forget that an old tree is generally more susceptible to disease. Such an apple tree needs to be carefully looked after, cutting off drying branches, processing the trunk and crown in time, and this will prolong its life and save it from diseases.

If the apple tree began to dry out immediately after flowering- the root system is damaged, and the tree only had enough strength to bloom. When, following the color, the leaves begin to dry out and fall off, this means that the roots begin to die.

After winter, the apple tree dries up when it has suffered from frost. No need to rush to cut dry branches, let the tree stand for a bit - perhaps the apple tree will “thaw”. You can water it warm water with dissolved fertilizer. But if leaves do not appear on the branches and the branches themselves are dry, they need to be cut with a large margin.

The dried top of the apple tree is a sign of a high occurrence of groundwater. It is necessary to equip drainage, otherwise the roots, reaching the aquifer, will inevitably rot. Also, the drying of the top may indicate a lack of potassium in the soil. Such a top must be carefully cut off - low, without leaving a hemp and process the cut point.

If the buds have dried up on the apple tree, you need to make sure that they are exactly dried up, and not “frozen”. Sometimes abundant watering with top dressing helps, but in the event that this is not damage to the kidneys by any pest.

Preventive measures against drying out are, first of all, proper care and compliance with "sanitary measures":

all cut, as well as fallen branches and leaves, must not be dug into the ground or allowed to be processed into mulch. Thus, infection and pests persist and multiply. The affected parts only need to be burned, and the soil should be fertilized with ashes.
When cutting and other types of damage to the integrity of the bark and wood, processing is required to prevent subsequent infection of the apple tree.
Before wintering, trees need to be protected by mulching, and after snow falls they should be spudded with them. It is not harmful to do this even when the winter is relatively mild.
In the fight against insect pests, birds are of great help. The garden should have birdhouses and feeders for the winter. This will keep the birds away and save the apple trees from destruction.
Periodically, you need to feed the apple tree so that it receives good nutrition from the soil. Loosening the top layer of soil around the tree is also helpful.

Compliance with all these measures will significantly reduce the risk of drying the apple tree.

Many summer residents are concerned about the question of why raspberries dry. It is known that raspberries are a low-hardy crop. In Siberia, raspberries (and blackberries) winter well only under snow. In addition to freezing, it suffers from aging and drying up of tissues. To save the crop, you need to take action: water, protect from the cold, replace the variety, transplant raspberries, cut and properly care for.

When do raspberries dry?

Raspberry stalks dry in autumn and winter, when the temperature jumps and can drop sharply when cold winds blow on bare shoots.

5 reasons why raspberries dry

In autumn, with a sharp change in weather: early snow, which then melts, rain with snow.
In autumn, with a sharp drop in temperature to 20°C.
In places with little snow, if winter is accompanied by strong winds.
During thaws, as well as from strong winds when the shoots thaw and the soil remains frozen.
With early snow melting, as a result of strong wind drying of both shoots and soil.
In spring, drying occurs due to low humidity and strong winds.

The most affected are:

weakly ripened shoots,
new plant with weak roots (especially if the plants were not watered immediately after the soil thawed),
old bushes.

How do raspberry shoots dry?

If the raspberry bushes dry, they grow late and slowly, the entire shoot dies or a significant part of it - up to 100%.

The outer integumentary tissues may crack along the entire length of the stem (or partially),
the exposed cambial zone is green but dry;
the buds are also green, but dry, do not develop.
The wood of the shoots does not turn brown, as happens when it freezes.

_______________________________________________

What to do if raspberries dry?

1. Water

Raspberries are an exceptionally moisture-loving crop; irrigation is important in agricultural technology.

Raspberries are watered often - as the topsoil dries up.
Raspberries should be watered especially often immediately after planting and in spring, regardless of temperature.

2. Replace variety or transplant

If the withering happens systematically -

replace the variety
or choose another site.

Varieties of large-fruited raspberries with thornless shoots suffer more from drying out.

Of the large-fruited varieties, varieties were resistant to desiccation. Beauty of Russia and burly . More about Top 30 large-fruited varieties raspberries read in

Of the varieties with prickly shoots, they proved to be resistant old varieties of Altai selection , from large-fruited - yellow giant and Phenomenon .

3. Trim and shape

If the case is episodic -

in the spring, as early as possible, the bushes are watered to accelerate regrowth.
After watering, the unrestored aerial part is removed,
form new shoots
raspberries should be watered in dry weather and fed with complex fertilizer.

_____________________________________________

It's a shame when, despite all the efforts made, fruit trees sick and failing to bear fruit. Often such a nuisance happens with cherries: the tree dries up at the tips of the branches, loses its ovaries. Let's figure out why the cherry dries, and what to do to save the tree.

The reasons for the drying of a fruit tree can be very diverse - from improper care and violation of the irrigation regime to incorrect pruning and the development of fungal or infectious diseases. However, most often the cherry dries precisely because of the disease - fungal pathology. If small characteristic spots appear on the leaves of the plant, measures must be taken immediately, as the infection is rapidly spreading, covering not only the foliage, but also the ovaries, flowers and berries.

Sometimes gardeners in the spring notice that the cherry in the garden has dried up. This is explained simply: the tree did not move away after the winter, having suffered from severe frosts. And the regime of soil moisture may be disturbed - felt cherries are considered capricious cultures in this matter.

Another explanation for why the cherry dries up lies in the lack of fertilizer: the tree simply does not have enough nutrition to form a crop, and it has no choice but to get rid of unripe fruits.

And the last, most unpleasant moment is infection with moniliosis. You can recognize the disease by the characteristic blackening of the ovaries. If you do nothing and do not fight the spread of the disease, it may well deprive you not only of the harvest, but of the entire cherry orchard.

How to save a tree

Complex fungicides are used to combat fungal infections. When the first alarming symptoms appear, these preparations should be abundantly treated with all the affected trees, otherwise the dried plants will inevitably die. The same applies to insects - for their destruction, there are insecticides of complex systemic or contact action that are safe for the crop. It will also be useful to mechanically destroy pests.

If the tree turns black due to a violation of the watering regime, try to adjust it. Cherry does not like soil with close groundwater, so you should carefully choose a place for planting a cherry seedling. Optimal Mode watering for a tree - 1 time in 2 months, using 3 to 5 buckets of water for each plant.

In order not to provoke a lack of nutrition, fertilize on time: in the fall, the tree needs organic fertilizers, in spring and summer - mineral (in specialized stores you can find complex preparations designed for stone fruits).

But the success of the treatment of moniliosis will completely depend on how quickly the disease was noticed. To combat it, use the drug "Horus".

Prevention

So that you do not have to frantically search for an answer to the question of what to do to save the garden if the cherries dry up in it, try to follow the rules of agricultural culture. Do not neglect the mandatory preventive treatments, do not forget to cover your cherries for the winter, protecting them from the cold, apply all the necessary fertilizers on time, water them properly and trim the branches.