Strawberry diseases: photo, description and treatment. Reasons for drying strawberries: diseases, pests or improper care? What measures need to be taken so that the strawberries do not dry out on the corn

Strawberries dry: causes, measures to combat the care of berries. This article will be useful to gardeners, as strawberries grow in almost all areas. Here are methods for saving strawberries from wilting.

Strawberries and strawberries belong to the same species - green strawberries. These are very tasty, juicy and fragrant berries that have a positive effect on the digestive system and the functioning of the heart. It should also be noted that strawberries have a rejuvenating effect and act as an aphrodisiac, and also fight against viral and various bactericidal infections. Strawberries are not only healthy, but also delicious. Therefore, the children are looking forward to her harvest with such impatience. But such a plant is very capricious, so gardeners often face problems, for example, with the drying of the leaves and the seedling itself. It is this problem that will be considered in this material.

Why strawberries dry and die

A lot of frustration brings the situation, in which case, the owners of the beds with strawberries observe that their plants simply dry out. Gardeners and gardeners, according to their observations, share tips and methods to prevent such a situation. But in order to avoid such a problem with the fact that strawberries dry, you first need to know the causes of this phenomenon.

Why strawberries dry and die during fruiting

This is a heat-loving plant, but it is also grown in the northern regions. Fruit ripening falls at the end of May - beginning of June. Much depends on the type climatic conditions and care. Yes, it cannot be said that strawberries are so picky, but she loves care and attention.

It is interesting! The name "strawberry" has Russian and Old Slavic roots. The berry was originally called "green strawberry" (that is, from the Latin "fragrant"). And only in the XVIII century a new name was fixed. By the way, it comes from the word “club”, that is, “having a spherical shape” or “winding threads”. But that's not all. In those times in European countries Muscat strawberry was popular, the name of which was replaced.

Reasons why strawberries dry:

  • Strawberries love water, so a common reason for the bush to dry out during the fruiting period is a lack of moisture. Especially if the summer turned out to be hot and without rain. During the period of fruit set, watering should be increased as much as possible. But even after the appearance of the first strawberries, do not forget about regular watering.
  • A distinctive feature of such a problem is dry and cracked ground under the bushes, the leaves dry up, and the fruits themselves decrease in size and also dry out.
  • But it's also not worth filling it up. Otherwise, they may develop fungal diseases or fruit rot. The root can also suffer from excessive watering, which will begin to rot, and this will lead to the drying of the ground part.
  • Lack of heat or incorrectly selected area. Remember - strawberries love warmth and sunlight, but they are afraid of cold wind and drafts. Therefore, do not plant it in the shade of trees and in open areas where a cold wind blows.

dried strawberry leaves

Also, the cause may be hiding in a thermal burn. Strawberries should be watered early in the morning when the dew has subsided or late in the evening. Otherwise, the burning sun may cause burns. Remember - moisture must have time to be absorbed before the appearance of scorching rays.

Important! You can not pour water on the leaves or fruits, the water must flow strictly under the bush. Again, this can cause burns or the bush will begin to rot.

  • If everything is in order with watering, the landing site is chosen correctly and you periodically replant it, then the reason for the drying of the ground part lies either in pests or in fungal diseases. These two reasons require separate attention, so we will consider them in detail a little later.
  • Also, one of the reasons may be vitamin starvation. Do not forget that plants need a lot (but in moderation) of phosphorus and potassium. Therefore, if no one is harming your bushes and they are getting enough light and moisture, then it's time to fertilize. The most famous and safest potash fertilizer ash is considered, and with a deficiency of phosphorus, superphosphate and phosphate flour are the most indicative.

Why do the edges of the leaves, buds, berries turn yellow in newly planted strawberries

Unfortunately, fungal diseases are often found in the garden and in the garden. It is important at the time to notice the true roots of the cause of strawberry drying and to carry out the necessary treatment or preventive measures for other bushes.

Gray rot

  • It is insidious and can appear in any other cultures and colors. It begins to appear with brown spots that quickly increase in size. The fruit becomes soft and loses its rich color. Such strawberries are not suitable for food.
  • The fruits rot, but remain hanging on the bushes. Thus, pulling the juices from the plant, which leads to the drying of the leaves. Over time, the rot on the fruits begins to become covered with a gray fluff.
  • The insidiousness of such a disease is that it is impossible to recognize the disease at the initial stage. The bush may look absolutely healthy and juicy at the stage of fruit formation. Goib, who lives in the earth, attacks the ripe ovaries.
  • Not subject to treatment! If such symptoms are found, tear out the bush and burn it. The disease can spread to other seedlings, so you need to remove the diseased strawberries as soon as possible.
  • It is very important to cultivate the land! For 3 years, disputes have persisted in it. An excellent option would be Bordeaux liquid. A weak solution of potassium permanganate of a pale pink color is also well used.
  • Let's not forget about this effective means, how blue vitriol. It is necessary to breed no more than 20 g per 10 liters of water. And keep in mind that the crop can be harvested only two weeks after spraying.

Gray rot

powdery mildew

Another common disease that begins to affect the leaves first. And only then attacks the stems, mustaches and fruits. If the disease began to appear during the flowering period, then the fruits will come out clumsy and tasteless.

  • The disease is characterized by a white coating with drops of liquid. The leaves begin to curl, stop growing and dry out.

Important! Especially increased the risk of powdery mildew in the greenhouse. Because controversy loves high humidity and warm air. Therefore, regularly ventilate greenhouses in the morning and evening. Make sure that the humidity does not exceed 50-60%.

  • For treatment, the bushes need to be sprayed and watered with milk or whey. Diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3. That is, for 1 liter of milk you need to take 3 parts of water. You can water and spray strawberries with this solution every 7 days.
  • Ash helps with many plant diseases. And its main advantage is environmental friendliness and harmlessness. Therefore, you should not worry about the berries, and you can already eat the harvest after a few days.
  • It takes 3-5 days to prepare a solution from the ashes, or rather, insist. For 1 kg of sifted ash, Yul of water is needed. Also, it will not be superfluous if you grate another bar of laundry soap before watering. Be sure to stir well until completely dissolved.
  • Laundry soap can also be used as an independent medicine. For Yul water you need to take 1 bar of soap. The floury mildew fungus is afraid of copper, so 20 g of copper sulfate will only enhance the effect of the soap solution.
  • Iodine. Another method that can be used both as a preventive measure and for treatment. For spraying, dilute 10 ml of iodine in Yul of water.

verticillium wilt

This is a fungal disease that is considered the most dangerous. After all, its spores live in the ground for up to 15 years. Moreover, you can infect other seedlings through garden tools.

  • The main features of the disease are dried lower leaves. They tend to have a reddish or brown tint. Then the bush begins to fade more and more and eventually dries up completely.
  • Another outstanding feature is the red color of the petioles and the dwarf size of the ground part. By the way, in old seedlings, the symptoms become noticeable only before the very ovary of the fruit.
  • When the first signs appear, it is useless to save the bush. The fungus begins to actively act already in the process of ovary and fruit ripening. If you use too poisonous, but effective chemicals, then this whole "Mendeleev's table" gets to your table.
  • Therefore, diseased seedlings break out and are burned. The earth should be treated with Bordeaux liquid or Fitospirin. Do not use them during harvest! It also does not hurt, especially in a greenhouse, to remove the top layer of the earth.
  • For prevention, we can only advise you to observe crop rotation. Every 3-5 years strawberries are transplanted to a new place. The old site can be planted after at least 5 years.

spotting

  • With white spots begin to appear round dots red-brown. Then they begin to increase in size, and in the center appears White spot. Over time, a hole may form in the sheet.
  • Brown spotting is characterized by black or brown dots that begin to increase and eventually cover the entire ground part.
  • Bushes with such diseases are not treated. They are completely removed. The earth needs to be treated with Bordeaux liquid, and spray healthy bushes with blue vitriol or other preparation containing copper.
  • You can also add wood ash or laundry soap.
  • Be sure to remove dry leaves between seedlings and change the mulch every year.
  • Be sure to apply potash and phosphate fertilizers, they are responsible for plant immunity.

late blight

  • First of all, it covers the leaves on which brown spots appear, and then it dries out. In the end, the fruits themselves rot. Dark or light spots appear on them, which are hard to the touch. The berries themselves become bitter and tough.
  • Copper sulphate, Bordeaux liquid and Fitospirin are also used for treatment. Among folk remedies ash, whey and laundry soap are released. Please note that chemicals should be used before fruit set or at least 3 weeks before harvest.

Strawberry late blight

The edges of the leaves turn black and dry, buds, berries in the beds, near the recently planted strawberries

Pests inflict less harm than diseases. There are a large number of them, but many of them have similar symptoms and treatments. Therefore, we single out only the main "attackers".

Mite strawberry or transparent

Microscopic insect; which feeds on plant sap. It is hard to notice with the armed eye, it becomes visible only by the yellow and twisted leaves, which dry out over time.

  • The plant grows and develops poorly. This insect also emits an oily coating. Favorable conditions are increased long-term humidity and heat.
  • The fight against them consists in treatment with a solution of Karbofos. But this procedure can be carried out only before flowering (as a preventive measure) and after harvesting.
  • If the bushes are severely affected by pests, then they are mowed, and the remains are processed.
  • Be sure to weed your crops. This should be done even at the very beginning and closely monitored after the first symptoms are detected.

Important! Use only healthy seedlings and avoid stagnant moisture. Also thin out the seedlings so that there is enough space between them.


Strawberry pests

strawberry weevil

  • The beetle is gray-black in color, with a characteristic trunk bent down. The body of the beetle is covered with light hairs.
  • Karbofos is also used to combat it. Among folk methods, a solution of soda is effective. For 1 liter, 2 tbsp is enough. baking soda.
  • You can also use birch tar. Yul water requires 3-4 caps. To enhance the effect, you can add soap shavings.
  • Laundry soap (1 bar) must be diluted in a solution of ash. You can spray even after fruit set, but only in dry weather.

Slime

The shellless mollusk also likes to eat juicy berries. Slugs are more active at night, so they can be collected and destroyed in the morning. To do this, spread small pieces of slate between the beds.

  • For prevention, mulching with sawdust or needles is used.
  • A solution of mustard helps well - 10 cm. l. for 1 liter of water. This can be used to water seedlings and spray diseased bushes.
  • Zelenka is another folk method, which will not harm the set fruits. In Yul water it is worth diluting 10 ml of brilliant green.

Nematode

These are transparent, thin worms that are cylindrical in shape. They feed on the sap of the plant, so the leaves crowd, turn yellow and dry.
lime.

  • If strawberries are planted for the first time, then lime is poured directly into the hole. The seedlings themselves should be lowered into warm water, then into the cold and only then send to open ground.
  • You can also spray the crop with a 5% solution of copper sulfate.
  • Or use garlic infusion. To do this, chop 200 g of garlic and dilute in 1 liter of water. You need to insist for a day, then water the bushes.
  • Also preventive measure there will be planting a crop of garlic nearby or planting some bushes.

Medvedka

This is a major pest. Brown color. It can winter at a depth of 30 cm in the ground, and in the spring spoil the crop or even inflorescences. Due to its large paws, it is able to dig tunnels and move on large area eating and other harvest.

  • Most safe way is to use decoys. Bottles or jars are buried in the ground 10-15 cm into which water or vegetable oil is poured. The bugs will fall with no way to get out.

Strawberry Enemies
  • Among the drugs are " force», « Zolon" and " Marshall».
  • They are afraid of noise. Therefore, install noise windmills. Cans, nuts, or metal bottle caps can be used.
  • You can spray the crop with soapy water. 1 bar of laundry soap per Yule of water.

Measures to combat blackening and yellowing leaves of strawberries and strawberries

Why do leaves, edges turn yellow, blacken, dry?-not proper care

Improper care consists either in using soil poor in minerals, or in improper watering.

  • To prevent evaporation of the desired moisture, use mulching with straw or humus. It will also prevent the fruit from touching the ground. And this often leads to the fact that the fruits from below begin to rot.
  • Water only in the morning or evening, when there is no scorching sun. This will prevent burns. You also need to water only under the root.
  • To adjust the desired percentage of moisture, arrange on the site 1 l or 1.5 l plastic bottles. First you need to make holes in them on the sides. Bury in the ground, leaving only the neck. Water will be poured into it. This will help to avoid stagnation of the liquid, and the plant will rationally use it through the root system.
  • Plant bushes from each other at a distance of 20-25 cm. You can use a checkerboard arrangement of seedlings. If the strawberries are too thick, remove the old bushes. You will not only protect the crop from drying out, but also from the formation of diseases. By the way, with a dense planting, strawberries grow small.

Proper care is important for strawberries
  • Remove mustaches and weeds in time! This, by the way, will prevent the appearance of pests. And there will be more harvest.
  • Apply fertilizer. In addition to potassium and phosphorus, it can dry out and yellow leaves manifest magnesium deficiency. To restore it, add magnesium sulfate in a ratio of 15 g per Yule of water.
  • The nitrogen content must be kept within the normal range. Its deficiency can also be characterized by dried leaves and a bright yellow color. To restore the balance of nitrogen in the soil, use 25 g for irrigation ammonium nitrate on Yule water.
  • It does not hurt to regularly water the strawberry crop with a solution of mullein (1-2 handfuls per Yule) or infusion of ash. These drugs are completely harmless, nourish the bushes with the necessary substances and protect against diseases and pests.

What to do with withering, drying strawberries, strawberries, Victoria, if the reasons are unknown: Diseases and insects cannot affect the entire crop at once. Let not quickly, but they will attack gradually. If there is not enough moisture or fertilizer, then, yes, it will immediately affect the entire area.

  • But sometimes the cause is a dense planting or propagation by the antennae of the strawberry itself. Follow this. They need to either be cut off, or, if they have managed to take root, transplanted.
  • Repot your strawberries regularly. This should be done every 3-5 years. Do not plant next to the old site. After all, diseases and insects, if any, will quickly move to a new place.
  • Strawberries need to be transplanted in the first months of autumn or spring period. If you decide to transplant it at the end of April - at the beginning of May, then be prepared for the fact that the crop will be very vulnerable to diseases and pests.
  • Do not transplant young seedlings. They must be at least two years old!

Save dried strawberries

Strawberries need to be transplanted just before flowering. Even before the ovary of inflorescences. Since the plant, although it will take root (which is only 10%), the fruits will already be lost. By the way, the bushes themselves also often die.

  • When planting in the ground, soak the seedling in a solution of clay and manure.
  • You can additionally disinfect the soil. For this, vinegar essence (10 ml per Yul), laundry soap, wood ash, blue vitriol and Bordeaux liquid.
  • Plants that are sick or have a wilted and withered appearance are not subject to transplantation! Only healthy seedlings are transplanted!
  • Be sure to apply all necessary fertilizers before planting.

Preventive measures against diseases, pests against drying of strawberries and victoria

The only and main advice in the fight against pests and diseases will be prevention. Any disease is easier to prevent than to cure.

  • Plant only strong seedlings and grow pure varieties. If you have several types of strawberries, plant them at such a distance that they do not pollinate. And, moreover, they did not have the possibility of mustache interlacing.
  • Remember - the older the bush, the more diseases and pests it has. Ideally, it is considered to carry out a transplant at all every 2 years.
  • By the way, do not plant in the area where they grew earlier tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant or peppers. The minimum must be 3 years after the last crop was planted. After all, old diseases and insects can go to strawberries.
  • As an option - always cultivate the land. Even ordinary boiling water will already destroy some larvae or spores.
  • Another effective method- this is to pre-plant mustard or garlic in the old place.
  • Remove weeds in time! And do not compost them side by side, but immediately send them to the designated place. This will only create favorable conditions for the development of bacteria and uninvited guests.
  • Keep an eye on watering. Strawberries are underdeveloped root system, so the lack of moisture is very sensitive to. And this will lead to the fact that she will become vulnerable.
    Video: How to treat strawberries for diseases and save them from pests?

Strawberry lovers wait every season for the harvest of these fragrant and tasty berries. But some gardeners may face a problem when strawberries dry out. To get rid of such a misfortune, you need to know the reasons for its occurrence.

The reasons

Strawberries are one of the most popular and favorite plants among summer residents. Its berries have a good effect on the gastrointestinal tract and digestion, as well as on the work of the human myocardium. Experts noted that strawberries rejuvenate the body, are an aphrodisiac and can fight viruses and infections.


But the plant requires special care for itself, due to the lack of which gardeners may face some problems, for example, drying out of berries or seedlings.

  • Often, strawberries dry out, do not fill with juice, deteriorate without blushing, fall apart or simply do not develop due to insufficient watering. This plant loves water, especially during the fruiting period. If there is no rain in summer and the weather is hot, then in order to increase the size of the berries and their number, it is necessary to water the plants more often. You can identify the lack of moisture by dried bushes, as well as dry soil under them. In this case, the leaves also turn yellow and dry out, and the fruits become hard, hard, and the bushes wither immediately after flowering, preventing the berries from developing well and ripening.
  • The berry may begin to dry due to a thermal burn, so strawberries should be watered at a time when there is no sun in the sky. You can do this in the evening or in the morning. It is also worth watching to ensure that water gets on the root, and not on the leaves or berries.
  • If watering is normal, then the reason for the drying of the fruit may be in pests or fungi. These are fairly common problems that gardeners often have to deal with.
  • One of the reasons is the lack of vitamins. It must be remembered that given plant it is necessary to periodically feed, introducing potassium and phosphorus into the soil. If nothing prevents the plant from developing, but at the same time the buds and berries dry, then you need to pay attention to its top dressing. The safest fertilizer is considered organic composition natural origin.


Diseases and pests

Strawberries are quite often affected different kind fungal diseases. It is important to identify them in time, eliminate the problem, and also treat other bushes in order to prevent their disease.

Gray rot

She is able to appear different plants in the garden. Initially manifested as spots on the sprouts, which gradually increase in size. After that, the leaves wither and lose their green color. Then the berries are affected, and the entire strawberry bush dies in the bud. If the affected berry is not removed from the bushes in time, it will draw all the juices from the plant, which will cause complete drying bush.

The danger of this disease is that at the initial stage it is difficult to notice. If pronounced symptoms of this disease are found, then the bush is no longer subject to treatment. It must be removed from the site and burned, otherwise the infection will spread to other plants.


It is also important to treat the area where it grew after removing the affected bush, as the spores of the disease may remain in the ground. To do this, it is recommended to pour the soil with Bordeaux liquid.

powdery mildew

This is also an insidious disease that initially affects the leaves, and then gradually passes to the fruits and stems. It usually appears at the time of flowering bushes, as a result of which the fruits become tasteless. It is difficult to notice the pathology in time. When it develops, it manifests itself as a bloom on the leaves, which resembles dew. Most often, this disease affects strawberries in a greenhouse. To get rid of this, it is recommended to ventilate the room more often and reduce the amount of watering.

After the pathology is detected, it is necessary to treat the bushes with whey, which is diluted in water 1: 3. The bushes should be watered with this solution for 7 days. If necessary, you can sprinkle the bush with ashes diluted in water. To do this, dilute 1 kg of the mixture in a bucket of water and pour the bushes with the composition, adding a little soap to it so that the solution sticks better to the leaves.


Withering

This disease is considered very dangerous, since the spores of the disease can live in the soil for up to 10 years. At the same time, not only the soil is infected, but also the inventory with which it is cultivated. You can notice the pathology by dried flowers and leaves on the bush, which have a brown tint. If timely measures are not taken to eliminate the pathology, it can affect the entire bush, and the berries will begin to dry out.


Often it is not possible to save the plant, since it is necessary to use strong chemicals, and the pathology appears during the fruiting period, so the chemistry can also harm the berries, which will then become unsuitable for consumption. Therefore, experienced gardeners recommend that, when the first signs of pathology appear, the bush is completely pulled out, taken out of the site and burned. After that, the earth must be treated with Fitosporin, but apply chemicals during the appearance of fruits is not recommended. It is also worth collecting the top layer of soil where the bush grew and taking it out of the area.

  • Spotting. When this pathology appears, red dots begin to appear on the leaves, which will gradually increase in size and then affect the entire leaf. A diseased bush cannot be cured, it must be completely dug up and removed from the site. It is recommended to pour the nearby bushes with Bordeaux liquid, and add ashes to the soil.
  • Late blight. It affects the leaves and gradually spreads to the entire bush. If the necessary measures are not taken, the berries may also dry out. They will appear spots that are hard to the touch. The berries themselves will become tough, prickly and bitter. For treatment, use "Fitosporin".





Mistakes in agricultural technology

  • If strawberries disappear during the ripening period, then the reason for this may be improper care or soil poor in mineral components. Not all novice gardeners know that to prevent excessive evaporation of the necessary moisture, you need to mulch the ground before and after watering. As a result of failure to comply with such requirements, the bush will dry out, like the berries on it. You can mulch with straw or humus. It is also necessary to ensure that the berries do not touch the ground after they appear.
  • Watering the site is also not done correctly. Timely application of moisture in favorable weather will help prevent burns on shoots and berries. In order to ensure optimal watering, an average of 10 liters of water should be used for each square meter landings. During the rainy season, the amount of watering should be reduced.



  • Novice gardeners make mistakes when planting young sprouts. Shoots must be placed at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. It is better to do this in a checkerboard pattern, as densely planted strawberries will obscure neighboring bushes. It is recommended to remove weeds from the site in time, in which case you can get more yield.
  • Proper application of top dressing will also help to avoid drying out of the bushes. Beginning summer residents make mistakes in this process. Usually they apply fertilizer based on phosphorus or potassium 4 or even 5 times per season, this is not right. Top dressing with these drugs is carried out no more than 3 times. It is also important to ensure that the amount of nitrogen in the soil is normal. It is recommended to regularly water the area with a solution of mullein, sprinkle the area with ash.
  • It is important to remember that strawberry transplantation is carried out only before the flowering of the crop, when the ovaries have not yet appeared on the bushes. Before planting, new seedlings are pre-dipped with roots in a solution of manure and clay.



Ways to solve the problem

Experienced gardeners know what to do to save strawberries from drying out. To do this, it is necessary to carry out preventive measures in a timely manner that will help prevent the appearance of pathologies on bushes and berries. Prevention is the main way to solve the problem when the berries begin to dry out on the bushes.

  • Young bushes have a higher immunity to resist diseases and pests, therefore it is recommended to choose only healthy seedlings when planting. It is also necessary to observe the timing of strawberry transplantation. This procedure is performed after a certain period, which differs for different varieties strawberries (on average 4-5 years).

    • In order to always have fresh and beautiful strawberries in the garden, it is recommended to properly care for the plant. The main task is to properly and timely water. Don't over-moisten the soil, but don't let it dry out either. It is recommended to use sprinkler systems that will moisten the soil in an optimal way.
    • To preserve the strawberries and prevent them from drying out after harvest, it is recommended not to shift or overfill them, and also to place them in a shady place.
    • After harvesting, it is recommended to once again feed the soil and prepare strawberries for winter. To do this, you need to put mulch and remove all affected and diseased bushes from the site.

    For information on why strawberries dry, see the next video.

Who among us does not like strawberries or garden strawberries.

This berry, ripening in May-June, is unusually tasty and healthy. It is delicious fresh, excellent in preparations, jams, compotes, jams, for freezing.

In order to get a good harvest of strawberries, it must be properly planted and cared for. Often, with poor care, strawberries deteriorate, get sick and do not produce a crop. Why strawberries dry, what makes them sick and why, how to prevent this, you can find out by reading this article.

Planting and caring for strawberries

In order to enjoy excellent berries, you need to properly care for the plants. Care begins with the correct landing.

First rule- choose the site wisely. Most suitable for strawberries slightly acidic soils, sandy or loamy, the surface should be flat, and the site should be well lit and protected from the winds. Plant it both in autumn and spring. On the clay soils make compost or peat, add sand, dig. If the soil is acidic, it is lime.

In preparation for planting, weeds and roots are removed. It is possible to plant strawberries on open ground, as well as under a film or geotextile, so that it covers the main area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden. This will help keep moisture under the plants and keep weeds from growing, and besides, picking berries is easier.

Second rule– selection of good seedlings. It must be healthy and of good quality. It is better to take seedlings in nurseries or from those who grow them correctly.

You can propagate strawberries both with the help of seeds and with the help of mustaches and seedlings.. If planted in the spring, then young seedlings are taken, but if in the fall, then you can have a mustache of the current year, then already in next year they will bloom and produce berries. The roots of seedlings are treated with fungicides and insecticides before planting.

Why do strawberries dry out? We ask a question. And these are fungal diseases. Fungicide treatment of the roots before planting is an important disease prevention measure.

Bushes do not plant deeply, the outlet should be at ground level.

There should be 20 cm between plants.

Between rows 40 cm. Planted in very wet ground, "in the mud."

Young plants require watering: if planted in the summer, water daily until the seedlings take root. And, further, as needed, preventing the soil from drying out.

If the soil was fertilized before planting, then in the first year of life, the plants do not need to be fed. If not, then a composition of 15 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt per 1 square meter is added. The soil is loosened and weeds are removed.

Such care for strawberries will help to avoid drying strawberries as much as possible.

So why do strawberries dry: pests and diseases

The leaves curl, turn yellow and dry, and the berries become small and the ovaries fall off. In order to decide what is the reason for the drying of strawberries, you need to examine it.

Moles or a bear can damage plants. They gnaw the roots and even push the bushes out of the soil.

Drying of the leaves is facilitated by fungal diseases of strawberries: spotting, powdery mildew, verticillium wilt, gray and late blight rot, anthracnose.

If, when examining strawberry ridges, several affected plants are found, then they should be pulled out and burned. When the defeat is massive, then it is worth treating with fungicides. It is best if preventive spraying is carried out. In the early spring, the fallen leaves should be burned and the frozen plants should be removed.

Consider strawberry diseases and methods of dealing with them.

Spotting. Why do strawberries dry - you ask yourself. And she may be affected by brown spotting. This is a fungal disease, as a result of which the leaves die, the plants weaken and the yield decreases. It is expressed outwardly in the form of brown spots that appear on the leaves, mustache. They increase in size and contribute to the death of the leaves in the form of necrotic tissue. The fungus overwinters on the leaves and causes new infections in the spring. For prevention, it is necessary to spray the beds with strawberries with Ordan in the fall. In the spring, you can apply Falcon, Quadris, Ridomil, Metaxil. Bushes are also sprayed after picking berries, not the first year of life.

Powdery mildew. Its sign is the defeat of leaf blades, mustaches, berries. It starts from the underside of the leaves. Represents white coating. Affected leaves stop growing, coarsen and curl. The mustache also curls. Then the tissues die. Flowers during this period are incorrectly pollinated, and the berries become ugly, underdeveloped and with a mushroom flavor and smell. Powdery mildew develops in warm, moist air. For prevention, plants are treated during the period of leaf growth with Quadris. And if the disease has already manifested itself, then after harvesting - Fundazol, Switch.

verticillium wilt can destroy about 50% of plantings in the second, third years from the onset of the disease. This fungus affects vascular system plants, roots and rosettes. The bushes are shedding leaves. Reddish deformed leaves peek out from the central part - yellow color. If you look at the cut of the affected root, you can see the vessels of brown color. Then they can infect both leaves and whiskers. Prevention is the right care and choice of quality healthy planting material. When manifested, it is fought by spraying with the help of Fundazol, Benorat or sprinkling with them. When a disease is detected at an early stage, as well as, as a preventive measure, trichoderma is used.

Gray rot can destroy up to 60% of berries. It develops well in heavily thickened and unventilated areas, when grown for a long time in one place. All aerial parts of plants are affected. It is most pronounced on berries, with the appearance of foci of decay with spores. On the leaves it is visible dark gray or brown spots. For prevention, high-quality seedlings, high ridges, spraying with Euparen, Switch, Topsin M or Derosal are used. In rainy weather, spray again after flowering. Affected berries should be removed, as spores spread very quickly.

Phytophthora- the scourge of most horticultural crops, including strawberries. May attack roots and aerial parts. Especially in humid warm weather. Mushroom pathogens. Spots of brown-gray color appear on the plants, bordered by mold or plaque. Bushes die off when the disease spreads. Control measures include proper care, high-quality seedlings, treatment with Ridomil, Metaxil, Quadris.

Anthracnose. The pathogen overwinters mainly on infected shoots. The disease develops especially rapidly in those years when the humidity is high in autumn and spring. The leaves and stems are covered with small gray-purple spots, the stems are ulcerated, as a result, the shoots die off. For the purpose of prevention, planting on high ridges is used, with healthy seedlings. If a disease is detected - spraying with Antracol, Metaxil, Quadris.

Strawberries are also affected by pests: nematode, strawberry mite, weevil, slugs.

Fight them - milestone in receipt good harvest. To get rid of all these pests, complex treatment can be carried out.

At the end of September, they take a bucket of water, add 2 tbsp. spoons of ash, burnt vegetable oil, liquid soap, vinegar and plants are sprayed with this composition. Also apply in early spring colloidal sulfur or karbofos.

Strawberries with dried leaves look untidy, there are few berries from it, as they say, like from a goat's milk, and such a plant spreads diseases to healthy plants. When strawberry bushes with dried leaves are found, I immediately take action, which I will tell you about.

There are several reasons for the appearance of dried leaves, these are diseases and pest activity, in general, everything is as usual, everyone strives to deprive the owner of the opportunity to taste sweet berry. If strawberry leaves dry, then the reasons may be as follows:

  • Dry soil, together with rare watering, when strawberries feel like in the desert, and there is not enough moisture for the lower leaves, as a result, they dry out from dehydration;
  • Damage to the root system by phytophthora, late blight wilt, this disease is not alien to strawberry plants. The base of the root turns reddish, the leaves dry out. The manifestations of the disease are very misleading, coinciding in time with the natural death of autumn leaves;
  • The ubiquitous pests - the strawberry leaf beetle and the whitefly feed on the juice of the leaves and the leaf plate itself, which leads to the drying of the leaves. Pests hibernate in the upper layer of soil and from the very first spring days begin their subversive activities;
  • On acidic and damp soils, strawberries and rust attack, I recognize it by yellowish-brown spots - fungal spores. It usually affects the lower leaves, as a result they dry out;
  • Various spots, in which brown spots appear on the leaves, also lead to the death of the leaves.

As you can see, the reasons are different, it is important to separate a diseased and pest-affected plant from one that simply lacks moisture.

Sick strawberry plants are stunted, have a small rosette with short leaf petioles. Often the center of the outlet in such plants is "clogged" with small leaves.

Of course, it is possible to cure diseased plants, but it is easier to prevent them from being infected by insects and diseases. I take some simple measures so that my strawberries are not exposed to diseases, as they say, forewarned is forearmed, namely:

  • I return strawberry plantings to their original place no earlier than after 4-5 years;
  • I plant strawberries on the beds that were occupied by onions and garlic, their digging just coincides with the moment of planting strawberries. Moreover, it turns out a difference of two weeks, during which the fertilizers have time to dissolve, and the soil to settle;
  • Before planting, I spill the beds with phytosporin and a solution of dark potassium permanganate in a dark tone with an interval of a week;
  • When buying, I carefully examine the seedlings, before planting I lower them for half an hour in a solution of potassium permanganate in a basin;
  • In spring and autumn, I spray with pesticides;
  • In autumn I cut off old leaves and burn them;
  • On the eve of autumn frosts, I loosen the soil in the garden so that the larvae and pupae of pests freeze;
  • In the first two years, until the strawberry bushes in the garden have closed, I place a clove of garlic between them, pests do not like its aroma.

How to help strawberries with dried leaves

If, despite all the precautions, the pests turned out to be faster, and the diseases were swift, I take a number of measures to stop the strawberry leaves from drying out, namely:

  • I bring watering back to normal. I moisten strawberries once a week, spending a watering can of liquid on four bushes in the heat. On light and dry soils, mulching is used to retain moisture, for example, with straw;
  • If a whitefly appears on a strawberry, I do homemade traps: I wrap the sticks with yellow tape with the sticky side out and place them in the garden after half a meter;
  • From pests, I use spraying after the snow melts and just before flowering, when the flower stalks have already advanced, but have not blossomed, I treat with actellik, actara or karbofos, alternate preparations;
  • I cut off diseased leaves and water with a solution of potassium permanganate from a watering can directly over the leaves;
  • Heavily affected plants, when most of the outlet has dried up, I remove;
  • If there is a place between strawberries, I sow mustard pointwise, then I mulch the soil with it. If there is no place in the garden, I bring mustard stalks from another garden bed.

You can find out why holes form on strawberry leaves, and who leaves them.

Strawberry lovers look forward every spring to a new harvest of these delicious, fragrant berries. But sometimes gardeners face an unpleasant problem: strawberries dry out. To prevent or correct similar situation, it is necessary to understand the reasons for what is happening.



Insufficient watering

Of course, first of all experienced gardener, having found that strawberries are drying up, will check whether the plants are well watered. The fact is that sufficient soil moisture is necessary not only at the time when the berries are just beginning to pour, but also throughout the entire period of fruiting. Especially if the summer turned out to be too hot and dry.

It should be noted that it is also impossible to be zealous with watering strawberries, since constant humidity promotes the growth of many harmful bacteria. Some of them, in turn, cause diseases that also lead to the drying of strawberries.

If the bushes do not have enough moisture, then this will be immediately noticeable by the state of the plant: not only the berries, but also the leaves will dry up and decrease in size, and the earth will be cracked and dry.

fungal diseases

Why do strawberries sometimes dry out, even if they are provided with a sufficient level of humidity? Obviously, the point here is not at all in the wrong watering. You should know that sometimes the drying of berries can cause some fungal diseases:


Gray rot

If the ripening strawberries are covered with rapidly growing brown spots, then most likely the plant is affected by gray rot. Sick berries become soft, discolor and lose their taste. They rot, and a thick gray moldy coating forms on their surface. After some time, the berries affected by gray mold are mummified, the strawberries dry and continue to hang on the bush for a long time in this form.

The causative agent of gray rot is a fungus that lives in the soil. Not only strawberries, but also other plants suffer from it. If this disease is detected, all affected bushes should be removed and burned.



Gray rot is also dangerous because it is quite difficult for an inexperienced gardener to recognize it when the disease affects plants during the formation of berries. In this case, the green above-ground part of the plants may look completely healthy and juicy, and the fruits will suddenly begin to dry out.

powdery mildew

Powdery mildew first appears on reverse side leaf, and then gradually spreads throughout the plant - along the stems, mustaches and fruits. Strawberries dry and curl the edges of the leaves. The leaves themselves harden and stop growing.




Buds, flowers and ovary at first glance seem healthy, but in fact, powdery mildew on these parts is simply not visible. When flowers appear on affected strawberries, they cannot pollinate and fertilize normally. This leads to underdevelopment and deformation of the berries, they dry out and have an unpleasant taste and smell.

Special attention gardeners who grow strawberries in a greenhouse should pay attention to the signs described above, since it is there that very favorable conditions are created for the appearance of powdery mildew. It grows well in moist and warm air.

You should know that powdery mildew plants planted on elevations and in hanging pots are least affected.

verticillium wilt

Spores of the fungus Verticillium are able to live in the soil for 25 years or more, so this disease is considered one of the most dangerous. The appearance of the first symptoms of verticillium wilt on young seedlings can be seen during the period of mustache formation. If the plantings are old, then, as a rule, the disease manifests itself immediately before the start of harvesting.




Symptoms can vary depending on how susceptible a particular variety is to the disease. To accurately determine the presence of this disease, it is necessary to do special laboratory tests.

The main sign of plant infection is drooping, withered leaves that turn red-yellow or dark brown. If the site is seriously affected, then almost all strawberry bushes dry up. In the event that only individual plants are infected, it is necessary to remove them from the garden and burn them.

late blight

This disease is also called leather rot. Late blight rot negatively affects the quantity and quality of the crop, and in some cases can cause its complete loss.



When it is not clear why strawberries are bitter, the bushes should be examined for this disease. Bitter berries are a sign that plants are affected by late blight rot.

In addition, a sign of the presence of this fungus are hard brown-lilac spots on the surface of ripe fruits. On green berries, late blight rot is deposited in the form of light brown spots, framed by a border. The affected fruit becomes hard and then shrinks.

Pests

The reason for the drying of strawberries can also be insects:


Nematode

Often, strawberries dry out due to plant damage by a nematode. This disease causes stunting of bushes in growth, thickening and shortening of young leaves. Diseased strawberry leaves wither, wrinkle and curl into a tube. After a while, they turn yellow-brown. This is followed by the deformation of the flowers and the death of the ovary. If the fruits had time to form, then they do not grow, but dry out.
The fight against strawberry nematode should be, first of all, preventive. If there is a suspicion of infestation of the site with nematodes, then when planting young strawberries, it is recommended to lower the seedlings for ten minutes in hot (approximately 46˚C) water. After hot bath should immediately lower the plants in a very cold water for 15 minutes. In addition, to prevent pests from entering the bushes, the latter can be protected with lime: grooves are dug around the seedlings, and lime is poured into them.

strawberry mite

This pest causes significant damage to strawberry plants. First, it damages the leaves, and in the fall, the females begin to look for appropriate place for wintering. As a rule, they live in the bases of leaf petioles, where they lay their eggs in early spring. Since the strawberry leaves at this time have not yet unfolded and have not had time to gain strength, the plant begins to hurt, as a result of which the berries become dry and very small.




In the absence of measures to combat the strawberry mite, it settles on the territory of the site and all strawberries die.

  • The control measures for this pest are the same as for the nematode: before planting, the seedlings are lowered into hot and then into cold water.
  • If in the spring it was found that there are mites on the plants, the area with Karbofos or Colloidal Gray strawberries should be treated. In this case, the first treatment should be done during the period when green leaves only appeared, and the second - before the strawberries begin to bloom.
  • If there are a lot of mites in strawberries, then it is necessary to cut off all plants under the root and burn them.

Strawberry-raspberry weevil

The weevil hibernates on top of the soil, in plant debris and lumps of earth. With the onset of spring, the beetles move to young leaves, buds and shoots of flowers. Before the strawberries begin to bloom, the females climb into the buds and lay their eggs there. For the entire period of laying eggs, one female weevil damages up to 30 buds.

The development time of the larva is one month. Before turning into beetles, the larvae feed on the contents of the buds. Young beetles feed on the pulp of the leaves. If the area with strawberries is too dense, weevils can destroy the entire crop in one season.

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