Brown spots appeared on the leaves of the hydrangea. Hydrangea diseases - how to protect the plant from death? Why do hydrangea leaves turn yellow

The flower is endowed with good immunity, but improper care and the vagaries of nature can provoke the occurrence diseases. It is very important to recognize the problem in time in order to provide timely assistance.

leaf diseases

Occupy a leading number among all diseases.

Why do hydrangea leaves turn yellow?

Yellowing foliage may indicate an excess of moisture. Although the hydrangea loves frequent and abundant watering, with excessive accumulation of water, it loses its attractiveness.
Pay attention to the acidity of the soil. If it is reduced, you can add a few drops of lemon juice to one liter of water during watering. Repeat the procedure several times.
Protect the bush from drafts, hypothermia, sudden changes in temperature.
Do not plant a flower in open sunny areas. He will be comfortable in the penumbra of large fruit trees or next to spreading shrubs. If he is on sunny side, try to create diffused lighting conditions.
Yellowing foliage may be due to a lack of nutrients. Feed regularly.
os look at the leaves. If they have a grayish coating in the form of spots, infection with powdery mildew is possible. Requires insecticide treatment.

Hydrangea leaves dry, what to do?

Lack of moisture, especially in dry summers.
Dry air. This is often encountered when growing in closed or semi-open greenhouses. It is recommended to ventilate the greenhouse if possible, install a humidifier, spray the air.
Sometimes the tips of the leaves begin to dry after an improper transplant, during which the roots were damaged. Even if you followed the rules, no one is immune from an accidental mistake. You have to be patient and get to work. Every 10 days, zircon treatment will be required. Up to 2 months may be required to restore health and strength.
Nutrient deficiencies also affect health, especially during flower formation and flowering. Fertilizers should be applied at least once every 7-9 days.

Why do hydrangea leaves turn black?

First, the gardener needs to understand whether he is dealing with sluggish or dry blackening. In each case, there are reasons and ways to improve the plant.

How boswarm with dry blackening?

In the case of dry blackening, large brownish spots form along the edges of the leaves, they become dry and fade. The reasons:

Sunburn. Keep bushes out of direct sunlight. This applies both when growing in a greenhouse and in an open area.
Excessively hard water for irrigation. Gardeners often take cold water from a column. But in many areas it contains lime and other impurities. Be sure to defend it before watering. Place large tubs on the site and fill them in the morning or evening. Better place in a sunny area so that the water has time to warm up during the day.

How to deal with sluggish (wet) blackening?

It is not difficult to distinguish it by dark and limp leaves. The reasons:

Excessive and abundant moisture.
Drafts, sudden changes in temperature, too cold summer. In the latter case, you can protect the root system with a layer of mulch.
Pay attention to the composition of the earth. Plant the flower in loose, light, nutritious soil. Heavy soil retains moisture, prevents breathing and nutrition.

Chlorosis

Occurs with iron deficiency. It is characterized by a violation of the formation of chlorophyll. The plates turn yellow, and the veins remain green. Iron may not be enough in the soil, or the flower itself, for physiological reasons, has lost the ability to absorb the mineral.

Signs of chlorosis can be different: reduction in the size of the leaves and their color, twisting of the plate, deformation of the buds, drying of the shoots.

Control and prevention measures:

Pay attention to the characteristics of the soil. It should be nutritious, well pass oxygen to the roots. Water regularly with acidified water to maintain proper soil balance.
If the disease began to develop, feed the bushes with iron preparations (in chelate form): Ferovit, Antichlorosis and others. You can also prepare iron chelate at home. To do this, dilute 4 grams of citric acid in one liter of water and add 2 grams of ferrous sulfate. The solution can be used for watering and spraying. By the way, iron chelate will act faster if you make it on the sheet!

Septoria

A disease in which dark brown spots 2-6 mm in diameter appear on the leaves (septoria spotting). The causative agent is Septoria. Affected leaves gradually turn yellow, die and fall off. As a result, the plant may completely lose its leaves. When the disease spreads, spots also appear on petioles and young shoots.

How to deal with septoria?

Fallen leaves must be collected and destroyed in time to prevent the spread of the disease on the site.
Affected shoots cut off with the capture of a healthy part. Treat the places of cuts with garden broth.
In the spring, treatment with a solution of Bordeaux liquid is required, as well as chemicals - Ridomit Gold, Profit.
If the azalea is grown in a greenhouse, keep an eye on the humidity of the air.

rust on flowers

This is a fungal disease during which a rusty tint forms on flowers, leaves and shoots. Maybe due to excessive planting density, an excess of nitrogen in the ground.

Rust control garden hydrangea

Treatment with copper oxychloride is required (40 grams of the drug is diluted in 10 liters of water). Some gardeners use Bordeaux liquid, but it can leave marks. You can purchase drugs: Ordan, Topaz or Falcon.

Pest control

Garden hydrangea often becomes a "target" of various pests. It is important to recognize the onset of the lesion in time and take measures to improve, otherwise the flower will begin to fade.

Common pests

1. False powdery mildew. You can recognize it by oily spots on the surface of the leaves. Over time, they spread, turn yellow, acquire a dark shade. A yellowish coating forms on the underside of leaves and young shoots. Powdery mildew is often found when grown in greenhouse conditions, at high humidity and air temperature of 17-20 degrees.
  To get rid of the pest, you need to treat it with a soap-copper mixture prepared from 150 grams of green soap, 15 grams blue vitriol and 10 liters of water.

1. Spider mite - settles on the lower sides of the leaves, covering them with a brown cobweb. Then they become a marble color, dry up and fall off. The spider mite is an insidious enemy. At high temperature(27-30 degrees) and low humidity, it spreads in just 5-7 days.
  You can fight the tick with thiophos.

1. Green leaf aphid - no less dangerous pest. It sucks out the juice, leaves a sugary unpleasant discharge in which fungi form. The aphid spreads quickly, the leaves turn yellow and crumble. Settles on the bottom of the sheet.
  You can fight aphids with insecticides.

Slugs - attack in conditions of too dense and frequent landing. They cause harm by eating foliage. You can fight them with a molluscicide (granular drug). It is scattered near the bushes on the surface of the earth.

How to reanimate hydrangea after winter?

If the flowers were properly prepared before the onset of cold weather (hidden under cover), there will be no problems. With the onset of spring, the flowers will come to life and will delight you with new blooms in the summer. But what if the flower was left without shelter in winter? It will be difficult to return to the previous look. But, this task is quite feasible.

Treatment will be required to protect against fungal diseases Bordeaux mixture or copper solution.
The affected foliage and twigs are removed and the treatment is repeated after two weeks.
Pay attention to the ground. acidify it weak lemon solution.
Must be sorted out appearance plants, remove dead, dry twigs, feed. This year it will not bloom, but if you take all the necessary measures and properly prepare for the next wintering, in a year it will gain strength and bloom again.

Hydrangea - charming flower who loves constant attention and care. Take good care of him and he will become the main decoration of your summer country garden.

– amazing flowering plant, which can decorate a room, terrace, balcony, flower garden or garden.

Lush bushes with bright green foliage are strewn with flower caps of various delicate shades: white, pink, red, lilac, blue. I would like to always see such a plant healthy and blooming, but some problems may arise in the process of growing.

Hydrangea is quite resistant to diseases and pests. but still requires constant care and attention. The vagaries of nature and improper care can provoke the appearance of various diseases. In this case, it is important to identify the problem in time and know how to solve it correctly and quickly.

In the article you will see everything about hydrangeas and plant treatment, as well as photos of problems.

External stimuli

In addition to pest infestation and pronounced diseases, there are external factors that negatively affect the beauty and health of hydrangeas. For example, yellowing of the leaves can be caused by such irritants:

Bright scorching sun. The plant prefers to be in partial shade, so too much light can be harmful.
Overmoistening of the soil. Although hydrangea loves moisture, excessive water accumulation can cause foliage to turn yellow.
Lack of fertilizer. For growth and lush flowering hydrangea needs regular feeding.
Decreased acidity of the soil. The flower needs acidic soil (pH 3-6). Even the color of the flowers depends on the level of acidity: the more acidic the soil, the more purple and blue colors appear, the closer to neutral, white and pink shades predominate. To increase acidity, periodically during watering, add 2-4 drops of lemon juice to 1 liter of water.

Sometimes the foliage of the hydrangea begins to dry out and fall off. The reason also lies in external stimuli:

Insufficient watering, especially in hot weather.
Low humidity environment. This often happens in enclosed spaces, greenhouses. It is important to regularly ventilate and humidify the air.
Lack of nutrients. Top dressing of hydrangeas is carried out 1 time in 7-10 days. This is especially important during bud formation and flowering.

Sometimes a grower may encounter blackening of hydrangea leaves. It can be dry or wet and is also caused by external factors.

Dry blackening manifests itself in the formation of brown spots on the edges of the leaves, which subsequently lead to the withering of the foliage. The reason may be:

Hard water. Before watering, it is recommended to defend the water for at least a day;
Sunburn. It is important to protect the plant from direct sunlight.

Wet blackening determined by the limp, darkened leaves. It may appear due to:

Sudden temperature changes, drafts;
excessive watering;
Heavy soil that retains moisture and prevents breathing.

Hydrangea chlorosis

Chlorosis occurs due to a lack of iron in the soil or as a result of a metabolic disorder in the plant itself, as a result of which it cannot absorb iron.

The main sign of chlorosis is lightening and yellowing of the foliage.. At the same time, the veins on the leaves remain dark.

In addition, there may be a decrease in the size of the leaves, deformation of the buds, twisting of the leaf plates, drying of the shoots.

When a disease is detected, it is important to feed the plant with preparations containing iron in a chelate form, for example, Antichlorosis and Ferovit.

Also medicinal composition you can cook by yourself. To do this, dissolve in a liter of water 2 grams of iron sulfate and 4 grams citric acid. This solution should be sprayed with hydrangea leaves, and with an advanced form of the disease, and watered under the root.

Another way to treat hydrangea chlorosis is to use a solution of potassium nitrate and iron sulfate. To do this, 40 grams of potassium nitrate is diluted in a bucket of water. Hydrangea is watered with this solution 2-3 times. After 3 days, ferrous sulfate should be watered in the same concentration.

Fungal diseases of hydrangea

white rot begins with the defeat of the root system, since the pathogen fungus is in the soil. As a result, the plant cannot receive the necessary nutrients, turns brown and eventually dies.

A sign of illness on young hydrangeas is the darkening of the shoots and the appearance of a white coating on them, similar to cotton wool. If the flower is not treated, black blotches appear on the “cotton wool” - sclerotia.

To combat white rot, fungicides such as Fitosporin, Fundazol, Copper Chloroxide are effective.

Gray rot manifested in the softness and wateriness of hydrangea tissues. In a humid environment, a gray "fluff" appears on the plant. In dry weather, the affected parts dry up and die, leaving behind holes in the leaves and stems.

The first step in the fight against gray rot is the removal of the affected and dead parts. In treatment indoor views hydrangeas have proven themselves Chistotsvet, Fundazol, Skor. When sick garden hydrangea it is recommended to treat Rovral Flo 255 SC three times at 3 week intervals.

Septoria can be identified by dark brown spots on the leaves, 2-6 mm in diameter. Leaves gradually die and fall off.

Without treatment, the hydrangea can lose all foliage and die. With an advanced form of the disease, spots also appear on the shoots.

To get rid of septoria, all affected parts are removed, and the plant itself is treated with preparations containing copper, for example, copper oxychloride, copper sulphate.

powdery mildew It is determined by yellow-green spots on the leaves, which eventually become brown and acquire a clear shape.

On the back side leaves you can see a purple or gray bloom. Without treatment, the leaves fall off, and the young shoots affected by the fungus are deformed and do not survive the winter.

For the treatment of powdery mildew, fungicides are used: Fitosporin, Alirin. At advanced stages - Skor, Topaz, Thiovit Jet, Chistotsvet.

This article is often read:

Rust

A disease that is easily identified by a rusty coating on shoots, leaves and flowers.

The cause of the problem may be high density planting hydrangeas or an excess of nitrogen in the soil.

Fungicides Topaz, Falcon, Ordan are also effective. Dosage - according to the instructions.

ring spot

The most common viral disease of hydrangea is ring spot. At the beginning, it appears as blurry spots in the form of rings, about 2 cm in diameter.

Because of them, the leaves of the plant are deformed, wrinkled and eventually die. The disease affects the ability to lay buds: either the hydrangea completely loses it, or the flowers are weak and small.

Unfortunately, there is no cure for ring spot yet.

When planting, it is important to choose healthy seedlings., since this disease is transmitted through seedlings. And when propagating by cuttings, it is important to make sure that the mother plant is completely healthy.

Hydrangea pests

leaf aphid. The main harm that the hydrangea aphid causes is that it sucks the cell sap from the plant and leaves behind sugary secretions, which, in turn, serve as a food source for the dangerous soot fungus. Aphids reproduce very quickly.

As a result, the flower grows very slowly, and with a strong lesion, the leaves are deformed and turn yellow, top part hydrangeas may die off.

The aphid is very tender, it does not attach tightly to the plant, so if there are not very many pests, you can get rid of them by watering the hydrangea with a powerful jet of water, while trying not to damage the flower. Washing with soapy water is also effective.

In advanced cases, when the aphid has formed entire colonies, it is necessary to use insecticides, for example, Fitoverma, Aktara, Sparks, Bison or Akarina. Aphids are eaten by ladybugs.

spider mite. It settles on the back side of the leaves. It can be identified by small yellow spots that merge over time into a marble pattern.

At high temperature and low humidity, it entangles the entire plant in 5-7 days.

In this case, a small cobweb and the pests themselves will be visible. As a result, the leaves dry up and fall off.

Get rid of at the beginning spider mite You can by treating the hydrangea with soapy water. If there are a lot of pests, it is necessary to use insecticides, such as Thiofos, Akarin, Lightning, Fitoverm.

Slug. Slugs often start up where the hydrangea plantings are too dense and thick. The harm they cause is eating the leaves of the plant.

You can get rid of this pest with the help of a granular preparation - Molluscocide. It spreads over the surface of the earth where slugs have been seen.

Prevention of diseases and pests

Prevention is the best treatment. If the hydrangea is healthy, it is unlikely to get sick, and if it does happen, it will endure the disease with firmness. If the plant is weakened, then viruses, fungi or pests can severely damage it.

What will become the prevention of diseases and pests and help grow a strong, healthy and beautiful flower:

Correct location. In the scorching sun, the leaves and flowers begin to fade quickly. Therefore, it is optimal for hydrangeas to grow in partial shade;
Sufficient watering. The plant loves moisture, so it is impossible to allow the soil to dry out. In hot summer days it is necessary to water the bush every other day;
The right choice of soil - hydrangea will not survive on heavy alkaline soils. She needs an acidic, light soil that allows air and moisture to pass through well;
Proper top dressing: at the end of spring, emphasis should be placed on nitrogen fertilizers, in summer - on phosphorus-potassium, and in autumn - mainly phosphorus;
Preventive treatment of hydrangea wood. In the spring, before the start of the growing season, it is recommended to treat the hydrangea bush with copper sulfate at the rate of 100 grams per bucket of water. Another option is to use more modern drugs for preventive treatment - Topaz, Iskra, Fitosporin.

At proper care and constant care, the hydrangea will grow lush and beautiful. It will become a bright decoration of your house or garden!

Now you know everything about the diseases of the leaves and flowers of room and garden hydrangeas and their treatment, and also saw the photo.

In the process of growth, hydrangea is often exposed to the negative effects of diseases and pests. The gardener needs to know the signs, causes and methods for eliminating leaf bronze, powdery mildew, gray rot, phyllostictosis, spider mites, aphids and many others in order to prevent the death of the plant in time.

Diseases

Leaf bronze is a viral disease in which small holes appear on the surface of the leaves. The leaf tissue is partially discolored, the leaves lose their elasticity, wrinkle, fall off. Cannot be cured, affected plants are destroyed. For prevention, measures are being taken to combat thrips, which are carriers of the bronze virus.

powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is a rapidly spreading fungal disease. At the initial stage, it appears as a white powdery coating on the leaves, similar to flour or chalk. Then the plaque spreads to the whole plant, dark spots form on the leaves. These are ulcers that arise from the fact that the mycelium penetrates the tissues of the plant and begins to feed on its juices. If the disease is not stopped quickly, the plant may die. Fungicides are used to control the disease.

Gray rot

Gray rot is a fungal disease that affects most garden and garden plants. The spread of the disease is facilitated by high humidity combined with cool weather.

Hydrangeas are more prone to fungal diseases than other garden plants because they love moisture. And moisture contributes to the spread of pathogenic fungi. Therefore, it is better not to wait for the onset of symptoms of the disease, but to take preventive measures - to spray fungicides in the spring, as soon as the leaves bloom.

It manifests itself in the form of brown, rapidly growing spots on the leaves and stems of hydrangeas. In wet weather, voluminous gray formations appear on the spots - mycelium and spores of the fungus. When signs of disease appear, the affected parts of the plant are removed. Bushes are sprayed with copper-containing preparations (for example, Bordeaux mixture) or fungicides.

Septoria leaf spot is a fungal disease that develops when high humidity air. It first appears as small dark spots on the leaves, then the spots increase in size, they have a reddish border. Subsequently, the leaves die off. Used to fight disease copper-containing preparations and fungicides.

Phyllostictosis

Phyllosticosis (brown spot) is a fungal disease that spreads through soil, water, and wind from a diseased plant to a healthy one. In affected plants, round spots with a brown-brown center appear on the leaf plates. Then the leaf tissues are torn, holes appear. Plants lose their decorative effect, with a strong defeat they can die. When the first symptoms appear, the affected leaves must be removed. Plants are sprayed with fungicides. It must be borne in mind that the spread of brown spot is promoted by high humidity.

Pests

The spider mite is a small sucking pest. Spider mite colonies live first on the underside of the leaves, then spread throughout the plant. They feed on the juices of the plant, leading to its weakening. The first signs of a tick are numerous light dots on the leaves. Then a thin gray web begins to appear. With a slight lesion, the leaves are wiped with soapy water or mineral oil, with a strong one they are treated with insecticides.

Aphid

Aphids are sucking pests that settle on the foliage and young shoots of a plant in whole colonies. Aphids pierce the integument of the plant and feed on its juices, gradually depleting. Due to numerous punctures, the leaves begin to curl and curl - this is one of the signs of aphids infestation. With a weak lesion, it can be washed off with a soapy solution. In case of strong, it is necessary to treat with insecticides (Aktellik, Decis, Biotlin, Iskra, etc.)

Scale insects and false scale insects are a large group of sucking pests, including many species. Amaze the majority garden plants. Insects are medium-sized, but visible to the naked eye, appear as whitish or golden-brown bumps on the stems and the back of the foliage. Pests suck cell sap from leaves and young shoots, leading to their depletion and deformation. With a slight lesion, you can wipe the affected leaves with a cotton swab dipped in kerosene. In case of severe damage, they are treated with insecticides.

The simplest remedy for sucking pests is a solution laundry soap. Soap is finely cut, poured warm water and stir until dissolved. Then the pest colonies are sprayed with this solution.

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Hydrangeas are amazingly beautiful and diverse shrubs.

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In horticulture, hydrangeas are valued for the variety of inflorescence forms, an extensive palette of flowers, large curly leaves, interesting bark, as well as for their unpretentiousness and abundant flowering. An unusually spectacular spectacle of hydrangeas is presented in the fall, when on one plant you can simultaneously see buds, seed heads and leaves of different colors.

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Hydrangea, Latin - Hydrangea, folk - flower-life.

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The botanical name of the shrub - hydrangea - is known only to specialists. Meanwhile, in translation from Greek, it means "a vessel with water" and speaks of a very important quality plants - it loves moisture very much.

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Most of the species are bushes 1-3 m high, some species are small trees, the rest - creepers, climbing the trunks of other trees to a height of up to 30 m.

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Plants can be either deciduous or evergreen., however, the widely cultivated temperate species are deciduous.

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Hydrangeas bloom from spring to late autumn. The flowers are collected at the end of the stem in beautiful spherical inflorescences - a shield or panicle.

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In most species, the flower heads contain two types of flowers: small fertile (fertile) flowers in the middle and large sterile (sterile) flowers at the edges. In some species, all flowers are fertile and have the same size.

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The overwhelming majority of hydrangea flowers are white, but some, such as large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), can be blue, red, pink and lilac.

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In these species, the color often depends on the pH level (hydrogen index) in the soil: in acidic soils, the petals become blue in color, in neutral soils they become pale beige, and in alkaline soils they become pink or lilac.

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Hydrangeas are one of the few plants that can accumulate aluminum in themselves, which is released from acidic soils and in some species forms compounds that give them blue hues.

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The main types of hydrangeas

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The total number of species is from 70 to 80; we list here only the main ones.

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Hydrangea tree (Hydrangea arborescens).

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A species naturally growing in eastern North America. Inflorescences are white. Flowering in July-August. In late autumn, faded inflorescences are recommended to be cut. Pruning of frozen, thickened and weakened shoots should be carried out either before the start of sap flow, or after the leaves have fully bloomed. One of the famous varieties is Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ with dark leaves and very large greenish inflorescences.

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Bretschneider's Hydrangea (Hydrangea bretschneideri).

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View from China. Large shrub up to two and a half meters high. The leaves are large oval, dark green. Inflorescences are broad corymbs. Blooms from early July; at the beginning of flowering, the flowers are white, by the end of July they turn pink, and in August they acquire a rich crimson color. In the conditions of the European part of Russia, the plant does not require shelter for the winter.

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Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla).

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View from South Japan. The leaves are bright green and large. Lilac inflorescences bloom in August. Winter hardiness is low; in the conditions of the European part of Russia, only some especially cold-resistant varieties do not freeze out, for example, Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Blue Wave’ and ‘Endless Summer’. This species is also grown as a houseplant.

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Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata).

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The natural range of the species is East China, Korea, Japan, Sakhalin. Plants about one and a half meters high. Green buds appear in mid-July, by the end of the month they turn white; flowering - from August throughout the autumn; inflorescences - with a smooth transition from white to crimson and crimson with purple tint. Hydrangea paniculata has a high winter hardiness. In autumn, pruning of faded inflorescences is recommended, in spring - sanitary and formative pruning. Known varieties- Hydrangea paniculata ‘Kyushu’, ‘Pinky Winky’, ‘Grandiflora’.

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Landing

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Before planting cuttings of Hydrangea arborescens in early April, it is necessary to dig a hole with a diameter of 50 cm and a depth of 60-70 cm. Next, you need to place a cutting in the hole and fill it with a mixture of humus, black soil, peat and sand prepared in advance in a ratio of 2: 2: 1: 1. It is also necessary to add 20 g of urea and 30 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate. Repeat similar complex top dressing after 2 years.

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top dressing mineral fertilizers or manure can be carried out at the beginning of growth, during the formation of buds and 1-2 times in the summer in smaller doses. Plants should be planted at a distance of about 150 cm from each other. Do not place the plant next to trees, as they actively absorb moisture from the soil.

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It is not required to cover for the winter. Thanks to a powerful root system, in case of freezing, the plant is restored to its previous state. It starts blooming at 4-5 years.

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Panicled hydrangea seedlings planted in a permanent place at 4-5 years of age. To do this, prepare a hole with a depth of 35-40 cm, a width of 50 x 70 cm. And for a free hedge, they dig up a meter strip. The distance between adult plants should be up to 2.5 m, but in order to have a “bouquet” earlier, the pits are marked out after 0.7-1 m, and after a few years the group is thinned out. AT northern regions hydrangeas are best planted in spring, in more southern ones - in spring and autumn.

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The roots are slightly shortened, and if it happens in the spring, then all annual shoots, leaving 3-4 pairs of buds on each. Plantings are mulched with peat, a compost layer of 5-8 cm. Since autumn, they are fed with mineral fertilizers, and in early spring- a solution of urea at the rate of 18-20 g per bucket, 2-3 buckets per plant.

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Hydrangea macrophylla relatively photophilous, but it can be planted in light partial shade, however, the less light, the later flowering occurs and the fewer inflorescences. The soil is preferably slightly or medium acidic (pH 5.5); one of the compositions: sheet, sod land, peat and sand in a ratio of 1:1:1:1. On alkaline soil, hydrangea suffers from chlorosis (leaves begin to turn yellow). In order to avoid chlorosis, watering with a solution of salts containing iron is carried out once every 10 days.

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Depending on the acidity of the soil, you can change the color of the flowers. With a slightly alkaline reaction of the medium, they are pink, with an acidic reaction they change color to blue or blue. To obtain blue and blue inflorescences, it is necessary to add iron salts and alum to the soil every two weeks: 3-5 potassium alum or ammonia-potassium alum per 1 liter of water. For one plant, 2 liters of such a solution are needed.

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To accelerate flowering, the plant is sprayed twice with an aqueous solution of gibberellins with an interval of 4-7 days at a concentration of 50 mg / l. Then the hydrangea blooms 2-4 weeks earlier. This technique also increases the decorativeness of plants. The flowers are getting bigger and there are more of them. Processing of plants is carried out when the inflorescences reach 2-4 cm. It grows quickly, thermophilic, demanding on soil and moisture, does not tolerate lime. Reconciles with slight shading, low frost resistance (up to -18 ° C).

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Hydrangea serrata "Miyama-kuro-hime"

Easily propagated by dividing the bush and green cuttings. In Russia, large-leaved hydrangea grows in open ground only in the south. When cultivating in a greenhouse or in a room at the very end of the growing season, when the hydrangea begins to shed its leaves, the shoots must be cut short. In winter, during the dormant period, the plants are kept in a cool, but non-freezing room (+5 ° C), and at the end of winter, when the buds swell, they are transferred to a warmer and brighter room, but without direct sunlight. This species can also be cultivated as container culture, which is kept outdoors only in the summer.

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AT recent times with the development of agricultural technology and climate warming, large-leaved hydrangea began to be cultivated in the open ground of central Russia. In garden hydrangea, inflorescences are formed on last year's shoots. Therefore, the main problem is to save them entirely in order to flower buds did not freeze and did not vypreli.

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Covering methods are the same as for roses. Among the varieties of garden hydrangea there are more winter-hardy varieties and those that can be grown in central Russia only with the introduction of plants for the winter indoors. Even relatively winter-hardy varieties of garden hydrangea, due to the characteristics of the microclimate, may not grow and bloom in all areas.

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Large-leaved hydrangea bushes tolerate frost better if they receive enough moisture in the fall. Flowers and leaves large-leaved hydrangeas perish even with weak night frosts, so it is recommended to cover them already in the second half of October. You can cover the bushes from short-term frosts with a covering material and a greenhouse film, always in two layers. In winter, the plants are covered with peat at the base, the branches bend down to the ground and fall asleep with dry leaves, spruce branches.

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The soil

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For a successful abundant flowering need fertile soil. Hydrangea prefers clay structural soil, it also grows on red soils, but does not like sandy soils.

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By the way, the color of the flowers becomes brighter in paniculate hydrangea growing on acidic soil , and on neutral it not only turns pale, but the whole plant has a hard time. Therefore, if the soil on the site is not acidic enough, when planting, it is necessary to add brown peat, coniferous soil (spruce, and preferably semi-rotted pine litter), sawdust. Ash, lime, chalk and other deoxidizers are contraindicated for all hydrangeas. root system lies shallow. The roots mainly spread in width, and as a result, their border significantly exceeds the crown border.

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They need moist soil to thrive. A good solution might be to land in trunk circles ground cover plants, for example, mossy saxifrage, various stonecrops.

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Growing conditions

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Hydrangea is propagated mainly by herbaceous cuttings from basal shoots. Cuttings from lateral shoots produce weaker plants, so they are avoided.

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Cuttings of large-leaved Hydrangea grown in the house are carried out in February-March (even until April 15). Hydrangeas rooted in February-March can be grown in 4-5 stems, rooted later should be arranged in one stem.

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Cuttings of large-leaved Hydrangea grown in the garden are carried out from June to July inclusive, until woody shoots. Depending on the availability of wiring material, the cuttings are cut with 2-4 knots with a sharp and clean knife. Cuttings with small leaves take root more successfully. You need to cut the cuttings just before planting them. You can not bring the cuttings to wilting.

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In the latter case, withered cuttings should be immersed in water for a while. The leaves are shortened by one third or half.

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Cuttings are rooted in reconnaissance boxes, on racks, in greenhouses. Nice results obtained by rooting cuttings in coniferous soil; the cuttings are not covered with anything, but only often sprayed with water. Rooting cuttings are planted to a depth of 2 cm, but the cuttings of the lower leaves are not immersed in the soil. Planting distance 4-5 cm.

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After planting, they should be watered, bearing in mind that withered cuttings of hydrangeas are difficult to restore turgor and take root worse. Wilting of cuttings is very often the cause of poor rooting. Hydrangeas need to be shaded from bright sunlight. Some growers root hydrangea cuttings under glass, but this method often causes the cuttings to rot.

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The rooting temperature is maintained at about 14-17 ° C. More low temperature lengthens the rooting period, and, therefore, provides more opportunities for cuttings to rot. When cutting hydrangeas, cleanliness must be observed.

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Rooted cuttings (this usually takes 15-20 days) are planted in boxes or on racks at a distance of 8 × 8 cm or in 7-9 cm pots.

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Growing hydrangeas in pots is uneconomical: required more area and labor costs. The soil for hydrangea cuttings should be acidic, consisting of swamp and compost soil. If the compost soil does not have acidity, then peat is used. Recommended for white, pink and red hydrangeas slightly acidic soil(pH 5-6), for blue and lilac - more acidic (pH 4-4.5). With insufficient acidity, the leaves of the hydrangea turn yellow. To avoid this, the soil is watered with a weak solution of sulfuric acid (5 g per 100 liters of water).

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Planting plants in boxes or on racks makes it easier to care for plants, they grow and develop better. The cuttings are watered with water that does not contain lime, which neutralizes the acidity of the soil. Do not use manure that is not completely rotted, which can cause yellowing of the leaves. The same phenomenon can occur from an excess of lime in the soil, since with insufficient soil acidity, hydrangeas will not be able to absorb potassium, magnesium, and iron.

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It is advisable to prepare the soil in the previous autumn or early winter, so that the applied fertilizers can decompose sufficiently. For 1 m3 of soil, 2 kg of bone meal, 0.75 kg of potassium sulfate, 1.5 g of ammonium sulfate are added. Thomasslag and other alkaline fertilizers are not recommended.

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Rooted plants are fed weekly in the spring. full fertilizer with a predominance nitrogen fertilizers. The temperature should be around 14°C. In May, boxes with hydrangeas are transferred to cold greenhouses. Early varieties with a short growth period, which form flower buds faster, are pruned in the first half of June, and late varieties in May. Pruning is done over two pairs of normally developed leaves. These plants will have 3-4 shoots.

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Do not prune plants of late cuttings, as they usually bloom in one cap. To get low indoor plants You need to make sure they don't stretch. The cut tops of the plants are rooted to produce single-stemmed plants. Two weeks before pruning or two weeks after it, the plants are planted in pots in which they should bloom.

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Elongated hydrangeas, when planted in pots, are planted deeper than they sat to reduce their height. Hydrangeas form roots even on lignified stems.

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Single-stemmed plants are planted in pots with a diameter of 10-12 cm, and two-to-four-stem plants are planted in pots with a diameter of 12-14 cm. At first, plants in greenhouses after planting are shaded from bright sunlight. After rooting, plants do not need shading: it can even lead to stretching of plants.

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Plants that are still weakly rooted in pots must be protected from heavy rains , so they are not immediately taken out of the greenhouse to the ridges open ground. All weak shoots of hydrangeas are cut out, since only large hats of flowers are considered decorative.

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Hydrangeas - moisture-loving plants, so they need to be watered and sprayed in a timely manner. For getting ornamental plants hydrangeas are systematically fed alternately with a solution of mullein and a mixture of mineral salts. Early varieties of hydrangeas finish their growth by August, so from this month they stop feeding them and reduce watering, and then even dry them a little to ripen the buds. Late varieties finish growth a month later, after which they are also watered less frequently.

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During the ripening of the buds, the plants are sprayed so as not to cause severe wilting.. In early September, hydrangeas of early varieties are given pre-harvest top dressing, which brings the flowering time closer. In winter, plants are best kept in cool greenhouses, basements, greenhouses.

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With insufficient light, the temperature in the greenhouse should be about 2-4 ° C. In order for the hydrangea to bloom in December-January, it has been provided with additional electric lighting since October. Additional lighting of hydrangeas brings the onset of flowering much closer.

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Hydrangeas are placed under lamps with rudimentary buds and given in winter time additional lighting within 8-10 hours. Best result observed at night. It accelerates flowering by 7-20 days. Daylight is less effective.

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Under the condition of good natural illumination of the greenhouse, the earliest suspension of growth is carried out in November-December for flowering only in early March. For this use early varieties with well-ripened buds. With a lack of light, plants are grown at a relatively low temperature of about 10 ° C, which prolongs the flowering period.

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To accelerate the flowering of hydrangeas, warm baths are used: plants are kept in water at a temperature of 35 ° C for 12 hours. After the bath, hydrangeas are placed in greenhouses with a temperature of 15-16 ° C.

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Good results are also obtained by spraying plants twice at a temperature of 12-14 ° C with heteroacusin.(100 mg of heteroacusin per 1 liter of water). With the appearance of leaves, hydrangeas begin to water more. On sunny days, the temperature in the greenhouse can rise to 20 °C. At this time, you need to carefully monitor that the plants are sufficiently well supplied with moisture. In the greenhouse, hydrangeas should stand freely, without shading each other.

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When hydrangea buds appear, weekly they are fed alternately with mullein infusion and a solution of a mineral mixture with a predominance of nitrogen. The surface of the soil in pots should be loosened. When flowers are formed, hydrangeas are tied to pegs. To obtain exhibition bushes of hydrangeas with large and abundant flowers, the following method can be used.

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Old hydrangeas, cut 25-30 cm from the ground, are planted in the ground so that the root neck is covered with earth. For the winter, plants bent to the ground are covered with spruce branches, dry leaves, etc. In the spring, old stems are cut to the ground. During the summer, multi-stemmed bushes are formed. Plants are watered abundantly.

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Within 5-6 years, you can grow tub hydrangeas with several dozen umbrellas. With an increase in the number of shoots, it is necessary to take larger pots with a diameter: with one shoot - with a diameter of 10 cm, with two or three shoots - with a diameter of 12-13 cm, with more shoots take pots with a diameter of 15-18 cm. Hydrangea usually has pink flowers. However, in some areas, peat and heather soils cause the flowers to turn blue. The same phenomenon can be caused by the use of conventional alum (25-30 g per 10-12 liters of water), aluminum and iron sulfates. But not all varieties of hydrangea change the color of the flowers to blue.

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The best variety for this purpose is the Blue Prince. Suitable soil for hydrangeas with blue flowers is a soddy land with swampy meadows. The presence of iron and aluminum in this soil gives the blue color to hydrangea flowers. Watering with a solution of alum begins 2-2.5 months before flowering.

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Hydrangea Care

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Lighting: Bright diffused light. In summer, you can take it out into the garden, gradually accustoming to direct sunbeams, and then, when the plants get used, the pots are dug into the ground and left until autumn.

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Watering: Abundant from spring to autumn. Hydrangeas love when they are watered when the earth in pots dries up a little, but not allowing the entire earthen clod to dry out. Does not tolerate hard water well.

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Air humidity: spray from time to time.

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Top dressing: Fertilizer dressing is carried out with liquid mineral and organic fertilizers after watering. Feed in summer and at the end of winter before flowering. After pruning, do not feed until new shoots appear.

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Undercut: halfway after flowering.

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Diseases and pests

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Spider mite. It affects the leaves from the underside, causing them to turn yellow and marble, then dry and fall off. At the optimal temperature for the tick (29-31 °C) and humidity (35-55%), the cycle of its development takes 7-9 days. The tick covers the underside of the leaf with a brown cobweb. For a year it gives 12-15 generations. At low temperatures (10-12°C) and high humidity (80-85%), its activity is significantly reduced.

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Control measures: spraying plants with thiophos (5-7 g per 10 l of water).

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Downy mildew. It affects the leaves and stems of hydrangeas. Its first signs are the appearance on the leaves of oily, later turning yellow spots, gradually darkening and increasing in size. A yellowish coating appears below the leaves, the same coating can be on young stems. The development of the disease is facilitated by a temperature of 18-20 ° C and high humidity air.

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Control measures: treatment of affected plants with copper-soap liquid (150 g of green soap, 15 g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water). This liquid is harmless to plants, and its use in the early stages of development helps to completely get rid of the disease.

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Chlorosis. A sign of chlorosis is the lightening of the leaves, only the veins on them remain dark. Plants growing on soils with a significant amount of lime are more susceptible to chlorosis. An excess of humus in the soil also leads to chlorosis.

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Control measures: Pour 2-3 times with a solution of potassium nitrate at the rate of 40 g per 10 liters of water and three days later - with a solution of ferrous sulfate, also 40 g per 10 liters of water.

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Leaf aphid. In conditions closed ground when forcing plants, hydrangea can be affected by green leaf aphids.

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Control measures: a good remedy its destruction is a double spraying of plants with a solution of anabazine sulfate. To do this, 15-20 g of anabazine sulfate is dissolved in 10 liters of water. This serves as a radical remedy in the fight against leaf aphids.

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How nice it is to have such a variegated set of these wonderful flowers in the garden! But the best part is that the hydrangea is not too difficult to care for and in the fall it will be able to please you with an abundance of rich colors and shapes.

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Hello, my name is Larisa and I am an amateur florist. My summer, spring and autumn household plot turns into a real greenhouse.

My real favorites are hydrangeas. Growing them is a lot of work, and it can be very disappointing when they put an end to the disease of these flowers. I will talk about them and their treatment today in more detail.

All hydrangea diseases are divided into two large categories:

fungal and viral;
Provoked by violations of the metabolism of flowers.

Metabolic disorders most often affect the leaves of these beautiful flowers. The following factors are responsible for them:

Excessive soil moisture;
Solar Activity;
Lack of nutrients;
Changed soil acidity.

Hydrangea mycoses are quite rare. Viruses visit it more often. Common carriers of hydrangea infections are insects, such as spider mites, aphids, and root-knot nematodes.

They must be permanently fought with insecticides. Hydrangeas are best suited:

Commander;
Tanrek;
Akarin.

Diseases associated with metabolism

Hydrangea is one of the most demanding flowers and a violation of the rules of care immediately affects its leaves.

fall off

The cause of this leaf disease is simple: lack of minerals and water, especially in hot weather. The fight is quite simple: we feed three times a month and increase the amount of water.

Dry blackening

It makes itself felt in the form of brown spots covering the entire leaf plate. It's just sunburn, plus hard water. What to do? Water only with settled water and arrange a shadow over the hydrangea.

Blackening wet

The leaf plate loses its shape and becomes soft, the color becomes brown. Temperature changes, excessive moisture or too heavy soil are to blame here. It is necessary to transplant the hydrangea or remove the irritant.

Yellowing

Here, insufficiently acidic land, lack of fertilizers, excess moisture in the ground may be to blame. You can determine the acidity of the soil by the color of hydrangeas.

If the soil is acidic, the flowers will be purple or blue; if the soil is neutral, they will be pink. In the latter case, you can add a little lemon juice to the water (a couple of drops).

fungal diseases

The "guests" of hydrangeas are not frequent, but they also come across. Spores can “sleep” in the soil for a long time, but when they appear adverse conditions they will let you know.

Botrytis cinerea

He is gray rot. Hydrangea tissues soften, acquire a watery structure. If the air is dry, the tissue of the flower also dries up. Dents and gray fluff may appear on them. But most of all, rot “loves” rainy and humid weather.

When an ailment appears, we remove all parts of the plant that are affected. We process hydrangea with Fast, Chistotsvet or Fundazol. Rovral Flo 255 SC is also suitable for garden hydrangeas. We process them twice and once every 21 days.

powdery mildew

It develops in the same way as on any other plants. At first, the spots on the flower are either white, or yellow-green, then they turn brown. On sheet plates (their reverse sides) you can see a raid of gray or purple.

Usually, infected flowers die in winter, diseased leaves fall off, shoots (especially young ones) bend.

At an early stage, hydrangea can be treated with Alirin or Fitosporin, if powdery mildew is running, the already mentioned Chistotsvet or Skor, as well as Topaz or Thiovit Jet, will do.

Peronosporosis

It also develops when the air is too humid. The optimal temperature for the life of the fungus is from 18 to 20 degrees above zero. Makes itself felt in the form of oily spots on all parts of the plant. Over time, the spots become dark in color.

For the treatment of bushes, you should use a mixture consisting of a bucket of water, 150 g of soap and 15 g of copper sulfate.

White rot

Usually "starts" from the roots of the flower. It is because of this that the hydrangea does not receive the necessary nutrients, becomes brown and dies. You can determine by the white, similar to cotton, bloom and darkening of the hydrangea.

Septoria

It makes itself felt in the form of dark brown spots with a diameter of about half a centimeter. Over time, diseased leaf plates crumble, hydrangea may die. All fungicides containing copper are suitable for the fight.

Rust

The fungus is activated when there is an excess of nitrogen in the soil or if the flowers are planted too tightly. To fight in a bucket of water, dissolve 40 g of copper oxychloride. You can also use Ordan, Falcon or Topaz.

Other diseases

The most "popular" hydrangea disease among viral ones is ring spot. Ring-shaped fuzzy spots appear on the leaf plates, having a diameter of about 2 cm. Because of this, the leaves lose their shape, wrinkle and fall off. The virus also affects the ability of the flower to form buds.

It cannot be treated, so you just need to destroy the diseased parts of the flower. To be warned, select quality flowers, fight insects and disinfect garden tools.

Chlorosis develops when the hydrangea either simply does not have enough iron, or it does not absorb it well from the soil.

It makes itself felt in the form of lightening and blanching of leaf plates. They become smaller, the buds are deformed or completely cease to form.

To fight, it can be treated with iron-containing Ferovit, Agricol or Antichlorosis. You can also prepare iron dressing yourself:

Option one. We dilute citric acid (4 grams) and ferrous sulfate (2 g) in one liter of water. We process sheet plates.
Option two. For 10 liters we take calcium nitrate (40 g). We water several times. Next, you need to pour water with iron sulfate (similar concentration).

Preventive measures

Prevention is usually more effective than cure. Preventive measures include:

Treatment of hydrangeas with Bordeaux liquid in spring and autumn;
The introduction of insecticides into the soil before planting;
Constant cleaning of the site and cleaning of plant residues from it;
Processing of planting material with copper sulphate.

Hydrangea diseases are not so dangerous. You can prevent them by simply observing the rules of cultivation.