Propagation of lilacs by green cuttings. Is it possible to propagate lilac with a twig. Reproduction of varietal lilac Is it possible to propagate lilac by cuttings

And the various colors of the bud itself are simply mesmerizing. You can see white, purple, blue, pink flowers. To date, scientists know about 30 species of this amazing bush. Very often, having met a charming ornamental plant, I want to plant it on my site. But how to do that? How does lilac reproduction actually occur? Learn a few important secrets. But before we learn how to propagate lilacs at home, let's look at the preferences of this plant.

Peculiarities

Lilac - thermophilic, and in general, unpretentious plant. The shrub is very fond of sunlight and freedom. Therefore, it is better to plant lilac in the place where it can grow freely. However, the shrub does not like drafts very much, so keep this in mind when planting. The soil is suitable for any, not even the most fertile, possibly rocky. Lilac does not like stagnant moisture, so you can plant a shrub for drainage. At least it will help normal growth. Lilac is unpretentious in care and planting. Therefore, it does not require any mineral supplements.

Reproduction methods

The shrub reproduces:

• cuttings;
• layering;
• root growth.

Let's take a closer look at each of these methods. So.

cuttings

Reproduction of lilacs in this way is quite simple. You will need a cutting. Suitable as a young, green pagon, and already stiff. You can cut it in spring, summer, and also in late autumn, when the bush has shed its leaves. Let's take a closer look at those cuttings that are cut in the spring, during the flowering of the bush. What do you need to know?

• carefully cut off the stalk, on which 4 to 6 leaves are located. Usually it is a branch with three or four pairs of buds. Leave a sheet on it;
• before planting a cutting, you need to remove the leaves from the last two buds;
• cut off a branch of the bevel;
• the top of the branch must be cut in a straight line;
• you can treat the cuttings with special growth solutions and leave them for 18 hours;
• preparing a hole for planting. To do this, we pour drainage to the bottom, about 15 cm, fill it with liquid humus, and pour it abundantly with water;
• we plant cuttings, leaving 5 cm apart;
• cover with foil;
• water them about once a week;
• remove fallen leaves;
• select the best shoots and transplant to permanent place, weak shoots are removed.

As you can see, the method of propagation by cuttings is very simple. Sometimes you can not immediately plant the cuttings in the ground, but first plant them in a pot. But you should immediately understand that you will not have 100 exits. Approximately 50% of all cuttings will be rejected or not accepted.

If you need to grow lilacs from already woody branches, then they should be prepared in late autumn. Cut the cuttings, as shown above, and leave in the wet sand in the basement to winter. Then in the spring transplant the chibouks into warm earth. In this way, the planted lilac will begin to bloom in about 5-7 years.

Root growth

Lilac is an amazing shrub that also reproduces by shoots. This is perhaps the easiest way to transplant, it does not require much effort from the owner. A new bush usually has very strong roots, takes root well and grows without requiring special care. Wherein, new bush completely preserves the characteristics of its variety, which is important for true connoisseurs of lilac.

A young seedling is separated from the maternal root system around the month of October, it is during this period that it should be planted. Indeed, at the end of October, sap flow is significantly reduced, and the injury to the root system from transplantation will be minimal. For transplanting, it is best to choose a non-sunny day and pour plenty of water on the new bush. Everything should be done very carefully so as not to damage the young pagons.

layering

Talking about how lilac breeds, it is impossible not to recall Chinese way. Its essence is as follows:

• in spring, near a well-established 3-4 year old lilac bush, small furrows are made in the ground, about 20 mm wide;
• the strongest shoots are placed there and fixed several times;
• pull the shoots with copper wire;
• cover the shoots with earth. Vertical shoots should grow from the nodes;
• spud shoots when they grow to a distance of 15 cm;
• water regularly;
• at the end of September, they clean the ground around the bush and transplant it for growing.

This is a more troublesome way of reproduction, but it has the right to life.

seeds

Lilac also reproduces with the help of seeds. Collect them in the fall from the bush that you would like to grow. Seeds need to be dried a little so that the sashes do not open. Mix the seeds with sand and store in the refrigerator for several months. After this procedure, it is worth transplanting the seeds into a special container or pot. Seeds of ordinary lilacs will begin to germinate in about 2 weeks, varietal ones - a little longer. After you have dived the young, they can be transferred to the ground. Some practice sowing seeds directly into the ground. This should be done in November, October, before the first frosts.

As you can see, you can grow lilacs most different ways. The main thing is to achieve the desired result.

Lilac needs no introduction. This is perhaps the most popular shrub for decorating urban landscapes and suburban areas. Lilac propagation is a painstaking process. Often people choose rooting with a twig. However, the procedure has several nuances that you should be aware of before starting work. Gardeners share their experience and give video tips on how best to plant a plant in spring, as well as in summer and autumn.

Lilac cuttings in spring and summer: harvesting planting material

Depending on the variety and climatic features, the shrub may bloom from late April to June. Average abundant flowering falls on the spring-summer border. This time plus about a week after withering is considered optimal period for cutting cuttings.

Stock up on the tool:

• sharp knife or secateurs;
• two layers of dry film.

Lilac cuttings

The success of future rooting largely depends on correct workpiece. The green branch that you will cut must meet the following requirements:

• middle length;
• without injury or disease.

Advice. Best rooted cuttings cut from side shoots that grow at an angle to flowering branches.

The optimal length of the handle is about 15 cm. It must have at least one internode. The correct cut is under one of the nodes, oblique (at an angle of 45 °), without hemp. After cutting, remove all leaves from the bottom node and shorten all the rest by 1/3. Spread the cuttings in a dry place and cover with a film for several days to dry the material.

Lilac cuttings in spring and summer: planting

In the case of lilac, it is important to adhere to the rooting technology, because the plant is very sensitive to various negative factors. To increase the chances that the tree will take root, gardeners treat the stalk with heteroauxin or another growth stimulant:

1. Prepare a solution based on water or alcohol. Pour it into a container.
2. Tie the blanks. Deepen them into the solution by about 1 cm.
3. Leave for 18 hours. This period is enough to completely impregnate the branch.
4. Wash the cuttings thoroughly. Better - several times. Now they are ready for rooting.

Green cuttings are rooted immediately on the site. Before planting, prepare the soil: mix 2 parts of bottom peat and 1 part of high peat. Dilute the earth with large perlite. good conditions for the development of roots is an abundance of moisture and moderate lighting.

It is important to properly prepare lilac cuttings before planting

To ensure these conditions, make a greenhouse:

1. Choose a well-lit place on the site where the rays will not burn on a hot summer afternoon.
2. Dig a hole in the ground - 20 cm. The width of the hole is about 1 m.
3. Cover the bottom with a drainage layer.
4. On top, alternate layers of manure and ordinary garden soil(or sand) - 8 cm each.
5. Lightly compact and water the top layer with the fungicide solution.
6. Dip the bottom edge of the cutting in Kornevin or another dry growth stimulator.
7. Deepen the material so that the cuttings touch only the top layer of the greenhouse. Water the sprouts.

Advice. Surely you will plant more than one cutting. The length of the greenhouse pit should be enough for everyone: the interval between the branches is the width of the leaves.

The greenhouse will not be complete without a sealed film shelter. Hang polyethylene at a height of about 40 cm. Put white paper or cloth on top - it will help cover the cuttings from the scorching sun. To prevent the material from flying away from a gust of wind, fix another layer of film on top. Water the cuttings once a week. After about 30-50 days, the shoot should be fixed in the ground with roots, but they will fully form only after 3 months.

Lilac in the garden

How to plant a lilac from a twig in autumn

Autumn planting of lilacs is possible if you rooted a flowering twig at home, and then plant it in open ground for growing. AT indoor breeding lilacs use resealable containers with a transparent lid. Inside - two layers of soil: lower - 10 cm nutrient soil, upper - 3 cm coarse sand. Keep the air temperature around 27°C and humidity at 80-90%. The last parameter is positively affected by daily spraying. In early autumn, carefully dig up the rooted stalk and transplant it to the site.

The roots of the plant are very sensitive and can intertwine. Therefore, transplant very carefully. Remember that the rooting rate of lilac branches is low - 30-50%. All work with the reproduction of this shrub requires care and accuracy.

Reproduction of lilac cuttings: video

Received with green cuttings, layering and when transferring a lilac grafted on a privet or ash tree to its own roots during a deep planting. Most affordable way - green cuttings : it requires less space and the most productive in terms of the output of landing units. In this case, varieties should be used that give good rooting of green cuttings.

So, high (85-100%) survival rate is only in some lilac varieties: Hope, Moscow morning, Sholokhov, Glaure d'Alemeyer, Hugo de Vries, Siebold, Paul Ari about.

Average (50-85%) survival rate was noted in such lilac varieties like hydrangea, Beauty of Moscow, Red Moscow, Cosmos, Kremlin chimes, Marshal Zhukov, Jubilee, Volkan, Joan of Arc, Captain More, Congo, Madame Casimir Psrier, Madame Floren Stsiman, Michel Bühnsr, President Grvi, Reaumur, Fürst Bülow, Excellence, Emile Lemoine.

Very low (1-49%) survival rate in such lilac varieties like Alyonushka, Olympiad Kolesnikova, Belle deNancy, Jules Simon, Cavour, Ludwig Shpst, Lucy Balype, Madame Lemoine, Maksimovich, Pasteur, Charles Joly and others.

Lilac cuttings during the period of mass flowering (at this time the shoots almost finish their growth), in the early morning, when the tissues are saturated with water. For cuttings, well-developed, but not fatty shoots are selected, preferably from the middle or lower part of the crown, where there are fewer cuttings with flower buds. Previously, each shoot is checked by bending it around the finger. If the shoot at the same time bends and does not break, then it is suitable for cuttings. Cut shoots are stored under the film.

Cuttings are carried out in the shade or in a cool room. Each cutting should have one internode and two pairs of buds. Under the bottom pair, the cut is made oblique, above the top - horizontal. The surface of the sheet plate is cut in two ways: either all four sheets are cut in half, or lower leaves are removed completely, and at the top, only the very tips are cut off.

Chopped cuttings are tied into bundles of 20-30 pieces. and lower sections (2-4 cm) lower them for 12-18 hours into a solution of heteroauxin (150-200 mg per 1 liter of water) with a temperature of 18 ... 22 ° C. But as the cuttings become lignified, and also if they are cut after the end of shoot growth, the concentration of the solution is increased to 400-500 mg per 1 liter of water.

After treatment with a stimulant, the cuttings are rinsed with water and planted for rooting in river sand a layer of 3-4 cm, laid on greenhouse land or on humus with a layer of 12-15 cm. Instead of sand, you can use its mixture with weathered peat (1: 1), vermiculite or perlite.

If rooting is carried out not in open ground, but in a greenhouse, then under a layer of fertile soil a manure pad 25-40 cm thick is arranged, which heats the cuttings from below.

At planting lilacs in boxes the latter are also installed on the heating material. Heating from below is also provided in other ways: heating, electrical appliances. The distance between the cuttings is 5 cm, 300-500 pieces are placed per 1 m 2. Planting depth 1.5-2 cm.

The planted cuttings are closed with frames. The temperature of the soil in the rooting zone should be 22_.28 ° C, and the air temperature -16 ... 18 ° C. If the air temperature rises to 30 ° C, then the greenhouses are ventilated or cooled by watering the frames.

Humidity should be 80-85%, substrate -20-30%. This level is provided by frequent spraying: in hot weather four to five times, in cloudy weather two or three times, in cold weather one or two times. A sign of sufficient humidity in the greenhouse is water droplets on the leaves of the cuttings.

In the first 10 days after planting lilac cuttings greenhouses are sure to shade. Then shading is carried out only on sunny days, and when the roots form, it is removed.

Lilac refers to plants with a long period of root formation, and the roots on the cuttings appear after 35-40 days. This is preceded by the formation of a callus at the lower cut: a white loose tissue from which roots develop.

With the advent of the roots, the cuttings are gradually accustomed to air. First, the frames are slightly opened for 1-1.5 hours a day, this time is gradually increased, and 10-15 days after the start of ventilation, they are completely removed. Watering is reduced to once a day, in cloudy weather plantings are not watered.

For the winter lilac cuttings cover with leaves with a layer of 10-12 cm. In summer next year they are planted for rearing in open ground or sold. The root system should be handled with care, because the roots are still fragile at the junction with the callus. After transplantation, the plants are formed in the same way as described above. They bloom in four to five years.

In one place, lilac grows for a long time. So, in the Non-Chernozem region on heavy grafted plants live 18-25 years, and with the best soil conditions and compliance with agricultural technology - at least 50 years. Varietal own-rooted lilac can grow in one place for more than 100 years.

For growing lilacs in the garden, choose open areas with rich permeable and well-moistened soils with a slightly acidic and neutral reaction. In such places, it grows well and blooms.

The best time to plant lilacs in the Non-Chernozem region - the second half of August - the beginning of September. But it is successfully transplanted at the end of July - August in a leafy state.

Before planting, the site is dug up, while introducing manure, compost or humus (10-15 kg per 1 m 2) and (g per 1 m 2): phosphate-60-80, potash -20-25. Acidic soil is limed (Table 5). Re-liming is carried out after eight to ten years with a new increase in acidity. also reduced by adding wood ash. The distance between the bushes depends on the variety, the nature of the composition and should be at least 2.5-3 m. Initially, lilacs can be planted twice as densely, but after three years the plants must be thinned out. On the small area three to five bushes are usually planted in one group, seven on a larger one. Otherwise, the plants are shaded from below and their replacement shoots grow poorly.

When landing in holes, they dig them with sheer walls. Size 50 x 50 x 50 or 60 * 60 * 60 cm. On very poor or garbage-littered soils, it is increased to 100x100x100 cm. At the same time, humus, compost or rotted manure (15-20 kg) are introduced into each pit (for the entire volume) , bone meal (2 kg) and wood ash (200-300 g).

For planting, biennial plants are used (both grafted and from cuttings) 50-70 cm high. The length and diameter of the root system is 25-30 cm. During summer planting, the bushes are dug up with a clod of earth. All broken or damaged parts of branches and roots are preliminarily removed. Annual branches are shortened by two or three pairs of buds to balance the aerial part with the cut root system.

They make a mound in the hole and spread the roots on it. After that, the pit is filled up, shaking the plant and gradually compacting the ground. Varietal bush and standard lilac, grafted on a common lilac rootstock, planted so that root neck was 3-4 cm above the soil level. This is necessary to reduce the number of shoots from the rootstock. Own-rooted seedlings varietal lilacs are slightly deepened.

After planting, the bushes are watered abundantly, and when the water is absorbed, they are mulched with peat or humus with a layer of 5-7 cm. standard bushes tied to a stake.

In our country, lilac is rightfully considered one of the most beloved ornamental shrubs. To date, there are more than 30 varieties of it in the world and more than 200 have been bred. different varieties. This article will consider the methods of propagation of lilacs, all possible nuances and features of each of the processes.

The main methods of reproduction

For the full development and growth of this shrub, as well as for a long and lush flowering requires a combination of several factors:

• full lighting;
• wind protection;
• good drainage to prevent moisture stagnation.

Subject to these conditions, the plant will grow quickly enough, which will allow the grower to independently propagate his favorite varieties of lilacs in his area.

Lilac reproduces in the following ways:

1. Cuttings.
2. Growing from seed.
3. Root growth.
4. Root cuttings.
5. Grafting.

Each of the above methods has its own advantages and difficulties, and in order to achieve a successful result, you must follow the requirements and rules.

Lilac cuttings

Growing a beautiful lilac from a twig is not too difficult and even an inexperienced amateur gardener can do it. There are two types of this method:

• green cuttings;
• woody shoots.

Propagation of lilacs by green cuttings

With this method, planting material is prepared either during flowering or immediately after, that is, lilac cuttings are carried out in the spring. Side shoots, branches from the central (main) branches are selected.

Lilac cuttings must be cut from shoots on which 4-6 leaves have formed, while each of the cuttings must be at least 15 cm long and have at least 3 pairs of buds. The lower cut is made obliquely, slightly below the last kidneys. For each prepared sprig of lilac, you need to remove 2 lower leaves. All leaves must be cut in half, as shown in the picture.

Next, all the tops of the cuttings are cut off, the cut should be straight. The lower end of the branch is treated with some kind of growth stimulant, for example, Kornevin. The stalk should be kept for several hours in a solution prepared according to the instructions for the preparation, or simply dipped in rooting powder to save time.

After preparing the planting material, you need to organize a bed for rooting lilacs. To do this, a small depression is dug at the landing site and drainage (sand or expanded clay) is laid with a layer of about 12 cm. Next, humus is placed and covered with earth, then the landing site must be carefully shed with water.

After that, the planting material is planted on the prepared bed, keeping a distance between plants and rows of at least 10 cm. After planting, it is necessary to arrange a greenhouse - install the frame and stretch the film. The height of the frame should not be less than 50 cm. An example can be seen in the picture below.

The optimal conditions for rooting is considered to be a combination of temperature 20 - 25 degrees and humidity at the level of 90 - 95%.

The greenhouse should be regularly ventilated, for which you need to slightly raise the edges of the film, avoiding a sharp temperature drop and cold drafts getting inside. After a month and a half, after the start of intensive root formation, the greenhouse can be removed. Further care in summer it consists in regular watering as the soil dries out and weeding. In autumn (September), the strongest seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent place, and the weak ones should winter covered.

You can also root green lilac cuttings in flower pots or boxes at home. Preparation is carried out in the same way, the cuttings are planted as in the picture.

When harvesting planting material, one should take into account the fact that about half of the branches will take root and survive, so that initially 2 times more shoots need to be prepared for rooting. Thus, lilac propagation is carried out by cuttings in the spring.

You can get acquainted with the opinion of a specialist on the topic of how to propagate lilac cuttings in the video below.

Reproduction by lignified shoots

Lilac propagation by cuttings can also be done by rooting already adult shoots, usually one-year-old branches. planting material in this case, it is harvested in autumn or already at the end of winter. Branches should also not be shorter than 15 cm, have at least 3 pairs of buds. The shoots must either be dug into the sand and put away for the winter in a cold cellar, or simply buried in the snow until spring.

In the spring, planting lilacs with cuttings is carried out similarly to the previous method. When harvesting branches, it should be borne in mind that such shoots take root poorly, the survival rate will be at best 30%. If you plant a lilac from a twig in this way, then the seedlings will begin to bloom no earlier than in 5 years.

Growing method from seeds

Lilac seeds are usually collected in late autumn, after leaf fall, before the first frost. After harvesting, they must be dried until the valves are fully opened.

The next step is to stratify them. To do this, the seeds are mixed with sand in a ratio of 1: 3 (for one part of the seeds, 3 parts of wet sand) and kept in a refrigerator or cellar for two months.

Seedlings are sown in March. The soil requires preliminary disinfection (steaming, treatment with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, etc.). Lilac seeds are deepened into the ground by several centimeters, after watering the container must be covered with a film, creating a mini-greenhouse.

seedlings common lilac appear after 2 weeks, and varietal - 2-3 months after sowing.

After the appearance of sprouts, the coating from the container must be removed. At the age of 2 weeks, seedlings should be dived into separate containers. Further care is regular watering (avoid waterlogging the soil).

You can also sow seeds directly into the ground, sowing dates - before winter, before frost, until the soil is frozen. In the spring, when the shoots get a little stronger and several true leaves appear on each, the seedlings are seated.

Growing lilac from seeds does not retain the characteristics of the variety, the result can be unpredictable. Usually this method is used when growing a stock for subsequent grafting of varietal lilacs.

Root growth

Reproduction of lilacs by young root shoots is the easiest and most natural way at the same time, because. lilac has the ability to independently form shoots from the mother bush. In this case, the transplant is carried out only once, immediately to a permanent place, and the seedling receives minimal injury.

The main advantage of this method is that young plant will have all the varietal characteristics of the parent.

You need to plant lilacs in the fall, before mid-October, no later. The procedure is best done on a cloudy day. Before separating a young plant, it is necessary to shed the soil well with water, the main root must be cut carefully, minimally injuring the fragile root system young bush, at a distance of at least 15-20 cm from the mother bush. After planting in a permanent place, it must be well watered and provide shelter for the winter.

Some experts advise to carry out this procedure in the summer, starting in July, to give the young plant time to take root and grow stronger after transplantation.

root cuttings

Lilacs can be propagated by layering. This breeding option can be done in 3 ways:

• simple abduction;
• Dalem method (vertical layering);
• Chinese way (horizontal layering).

simple abduction

This breeding option for lilacs is very simple to perform. In the spring, strong branches at the age of 1 year must be bent to the ground and dug in, previously secured with a hairpin or bracket. During the growing season, it is necessary to moisten and add soil to the shoot in a timely manner in the place where it was dug.

This method requires a long time, since it will be possible to separate a young plant from the mother bush no earlier than 4 years after full rooting and the formation of its own root system.

Dahlem way

The breeding process of lilacs in this case will also be delayed for several seasons, since only preliminary preparation takes 2 years. It consists of the following steps:

• choice of mother bush;
• full pruning of branches in the fall for two seasons.

In the third year, as soon as the branches on the mother bush reach 20 cm in length, it is necessary to carry out the procedures in a certain sequence. Step by step it looks like this.

1. The very first kidneys, which are the most developed, are chosen, and an incision is made on the cortex under them. It is wrapped with wire in several turns, this is necessary in order to stimulate root formation. This is done with several of the strongest shoots, so as not to weaken the entire bush.
2. The shoots are dug in half, then the earth is sprinkled in the process of growing a young bush so that it is always half in the ground.
3. In autumn, layering should be dug up and transplanted for growing.

Chinese way

This method of lilac propagation is also called the horizontal layering method. It is also easiest to use by following the following sequence of steps.

1. In early spring, after the ground dries out a little, choose a strong bush at the age of 3-4 years. Furrows 2 cm deep are drawn around it.
2. Strong branches at the age of 1 year should be laid in furrows and fixed in several places.
3. Using copper wire, wrap each branch three times in front of the buds.
4. Cover the furrows with soil and water regularly.
5. After some time, new shoots will begin to grow from the ground, which, as they grow, must be covered with soil at half their height, before the onset of autumn.
6. During the season, add soil 3 times, as a result, the height of the embankment will be approximately 25 cm.
7. In September, young layers should be separated and grown over several years.

Lilac grafting

1. On the awakening kidney (carried out in early spring from early March to early April).
2. On a dormant bud (budding), carried out from the first decade of July to the first decade of August.

Most often, lilac vaccination is carried out in the summer, since in early spring it is very difficult to catch the right moment. The procedure consists of several stages:

• rootstock preparation;
• scion preparation;
• shield manufacturing;
• budding procedure;
• care after budding.

Rootstock preparation

The most optimal is the independent cultivation of the rootstock from seeds, because. Vaccinations on layering are less likely to end successfully. In preparation, you need to do the following:

• in June, cut off the side branches, leaving shoots 10 - 14 cm;
• a week before the procedure, you need to water the bush well for easier separation of the bark.

The root neck should be up to 1.5 cm in diameter.

Scion preparation

When preparing material for budding, the following conditions must be met:

• the shoot for the scion must be at the age of 1 year;
• the length of the grafting cutting should be from 20 to 30 cm, thickness up to 4 mm;
• the shoot for the scion must be completely lignified, with large buds in the axils;
• it must be cut off a week before the procedure;
• after cutting, you need to remove the leaves, leaving the petioles;
• before inoculation, store the inoculation material in a cool wet place(in the refrigerator, wrapped in a damp cloth or moss).

Shield manufacturing

The shield is a scion prepared for grafting. Prepare it as follows:

• large buds must be removed from the shoot (recommended in the middle part of the cutting);
• at a height of 0.7 mm above the kidney to be cut with a sharp knife, make a shallow incision at an acute angle, a little deeper under the kidney itself;
• move the bark away from the edge of the cut, being careful not to damage the wood, otherwise the grafting will not work.

Budding procedure

The vaccination process consists of a certain sequence of actions.

1. Clean the rootstock site, wipe the grafting site with a damp cloth.
2. With a sharply sharpened knife blade, make an incision in the shape of the letter T from 2 to 3 cm long, its height above the ground should be at least 3 cm from the ground surface.
3. Lightly separate the bark at the incision points.
4. Carefully insert the shield into the incision in the center, under the bark on the rootstock.
5. Fix the vaccination site with a bandage of electrical tape or elastic bandage. The bandage is fixed on the entire surface of the graft, from top to bottom, but the kidney must remain open.
6. The rootstock must be sprinkled with soil, you can water it in a week.
7. After 3 weeks, you can evaluate the result of budding. If the corymb bud remains fresh, then the inoculation was a success. If the bud on the shield is dry, then budding has failed.

Before the onset of frost, the grafted stock is mulched with peat, the place of budding should be at a depth of at least 10 cm.

In the spring, from the second half of March to the beginning of April, peat should be removed, the bandage removed and the stem cut to a height of 5-7 cm above the kidney, leaving the so-called spike. The place of pruning must be treated with garden pitch. So that the young grafted shoot does not break, it is tied to a thorn. Starting from the third year, the grafted shoot can be transplanted to a permanent place.

Care after budding

Starting from the second year after grafting, you can begin to care for the grafted plant. You need to water it regularly, loosen the soil and cut off new growth. You can fertilize in the spring complex fertilizer in the amount of 20-30 g according to the instructions for use.
In conclusion, it can be noted that among several types of lilac propagation, each grower can choose the most interesting for him. A novice flower lover is able to grow his lilac from a cutting, and an experienced one can bud on a grown one. with my own hands from rootstock seeds.

All cultivars lilacs reproduce vegetatively: shoots (own-root specimens), layering, grafting and green cuttings. If you do not have grafting skills, and it is problematic for you to make layering, then the most suitable method for you is propagation by green cuttings.

Gardeners have an erroneous opinion that own-rooted lilac blooms worse. However, it is in no way inferior to the inflorescences grafted in size and beauty, and besides, it is more durable. There are landings that proper care do not lose their decorative effect for more than 50 years. Lilac belongs to plants that are difficult to root, therefore, for successful reproduction, a number of conditions must be met:

• It is very important to observe the deadlines for harvesting cuttings. Semi-lignified cuttings do not root. Most right time- the moment of flowering or immediately after it, when young overgrowing branches finish their growth.
• It is desirable to cut the cuttings in the early morning from young bushes from the middle of the crown, using twigs of medium thickness (in extreme cases, thin ones) from the middle part of the shoot. It is best to have 2-3 nodes on it and fairly short internodes.

Shoots coming from thick branches - tops, or fat shoots are not suitable for harvesting lilac cuttings. In lilac tops, as a rule, do not take root.

Preparation of cuttings

First, completely remove the leaves from the bottom node.

Make an oblique cut as close as possible to the bottom node from which the leaves have been removed. For this, use a well-sharpened grafting knife or a special pruner to injure the tissue at the cut site as little as possible. Cuttings cut exactly at the internodes, as well as from fatty shoots (tops), do not take root.

Cut the remaining leaf blades in half.

Remove the top of the shoot by making a straight cut over the top node.

Immediately after cutting the cuttings, place them in the stimulant solution Epin-extra at 16-18 hours. Immediately before planting, they will need to be washed with clean water.

Rooting lilac cuttings in a greenhouse

Planting cuttings is best in a greenhouse or cuttings, located in partial shade. In extreme cases, you can do without a greenhouse by covering the cuttings with trimmed five-liter plastic bottles from under drinking water. Prepare the soil for planting. To do this, mix peat with sand in a ratio of 1: 1. Not bad if you replace part of the sand with perlite. It retains moisture better and at the same time breathes, preventing the cuttings from rotting. Fill the stalk with this mixture with a layer of 15-20 cm. From above, cover it with a layer of sand (preferably river sand) 5 cm thick. Pour the prepared place well with a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Vitaros, Maxim). This will protect the cuttings from damage by fungal diseases.

Lilac cuttings take root difficult, so the use of root stimulants is necessary. Dip the cutting with the wet end into the stimulator Kornevin.

Make a small indentation in the damp sand and place the stalk there, completely deepening the lower knot. Make sure that the root stimulator powder does not crumble from it. Seal. The lower end of the handle should be completely in the sand and not touch the ground. The distance between the cuttings is such that the leaves lightly touch each other.

Spray the cuttings with a spray bottle with water. You can add the solution remaining from soaking the cuttings to the water. Epina-extra.

Cover the cuttings with two layers of polyethylene, placing between them a layer of rare or translucent fabric. You can use other methods of shading, for example, put a plastic mesh fruit box on top of polyethylene, which will provide you with a sliding shadow. Make sure that the sand in the cutting does not dry out, spray the cuttings 2-3 times a day: they successfully root at 100% humidity. Spray once a week with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate to prevent mold from forming on the leaves.

Lilac cuttings take root for a very long time, depending on the variety, the roots appear on the 40-60th day after planting. With the formation of roots, the stalk must be ventilated in the evening, and then open it completely.

Caring for rooted cuttings

If rooting happened late, then it is best to leave the cuttings for the winter in the cuttings. If the cuttings managed to take root before the end of August, early autumn they can be planted in a school - on a special bed for growing. In the year of rooting, the plant does not give shoots, but builds up the root system. The leaves on the cuttings usually darken by the end of the season - this is not scary. If the buds are alive, the plants should take root.

For growing young seedlings, choose a bright place. The soil should be light and fertile, neutral or slightly acidic. Fill it with humus or compost, add, if necessary, to reduce acidity, 300-400 g of wood ash or 200 g dolomite flour for 1 square meter and dig a shovel onto the bayonet. Plant rooted cuttings at a distance of about 30 cm.

Young lilac roots are very fragile, so plant them carefully, without compacting the soil, just water it so that the earth settles a little.

For the first winter, cover the seedlings with spruce branches or provide any other dry shelter. In the spring, with the onset of warm weather, remove the shelter. At good care(weeding, loosening, regular feeding) after two years, lilacs can be planted in a permanent place. Lilac blooms after cuttings in the 4-5th year, but after 1-2 years of growing, you can plant it in a permanent place.