How to properly prune most fruit and ornamental trees in the summer: optimal timing, diagram, video. Is it possible to prune trees in summer: expert opinion Is it possible to prune fruit trees in summer

Summer pruning of the garden - is it right?

Pruning that forms and rejuvenates the tree is done only in spring!!! Preferably before the start of sap flow!!! Although some experts do not forbid doing this before flowering!!! I always do this after bud break to see what has woken up and what, God forbid, has frozen !! BUT sanitary pruning(dry and diseased branches) can be done during the season !!! And in the fall, after picking the fruits, for example, I remove branches that have broken under the weight of the crop !!!

Cut branches that are drooping and lying on the ground.

When cutting trees, do not climb trees, as this can cause serious damage to them - ladders should be used.

It is imperative to protect the cuts with garden pitch or its substitutes.

The optimum height of a peach tree is approximately 3.5 meters. You can lower the crown by transferring it to branched lateral branches;

The scheme of this process can be represented as follows:

How to cut a peach correctly in this case? Pruning a peach involves removing only old, damaged and dry branches, as well as weakened branches. Such branches may contain pests or various infections that, in spring period will contribute to the spread of diseases throughout the tree.

Pruning can be done with the following tools:

Spinning tops and forks

choice of time;

All large wounds left on the tree during pruning are the entry point for fungi and bacteria that damage the bark and wood. Such wounds after trimming must be covered up.

Experienced amateur gardeners practice pruning throughout the summer months. Its goal is to get better colored and sweeter fruits. After all, the removal of a large number of shoots with leaves contributes to better illumination of all parts of the crown.

summer pruning technology

Pruning and shaping fruit trees. Garden workshop... .

In autumn, and preferably at the end of summer, it is possible to mint the tips of the shoots that have not matured and are affected by pests and diseases. It is impossible to shorten the shoot strongly, it is better to cut such an escape completely.

When pruning, it should be remembered that any pruning delays fruiting; strong pruning (when a large part of the branch is removed) "oppresses" the remaining part of the branch, and weak pruning (when a small part is removed) forces the remaining part to branch. Therefore, pruning should be only a necessary measure, with the help of which various tree defects are eliminated.

Weak plants should be severely cut, and strong and healthy - only slightly.

vsaduidoma.com

How to prune cherries in summer?

A weakening of growth activity will indicate a decrease in yield;

In the first year in the summer (early June), three very strong shoots are chosen. The topmost of them is directed vertically, and the remaining two - in opposite directions. The remaining buds and shoots are removed. When the side shoots reach a length of 40 cm, they are tied at an angle of 45 ° to the rails. When they grow and reach a length of 50 cm, the central shoot should be removed;

Is it possible to prune cherry branches in summer?

First, shoots are cut that contain only sprout or flower buds. Only after that you can start thinning the crown by removing branches that grow inward.

garden shears;

How to prune cherries in summer?

preparation of tools;

For these purposes, you can use water-based or oil paint on the natural drying oil with the addition of preparations "Azophos" (10 g / kg), "Fundazol", "Topsin-M" or "Bayleton" (4-5 g / kg), garden medicinal whitewash (grades A and B), garden putty of industrial production.

What is possible and what is not

womanadvice.ru

Peach pruning - we form the crown correctly

Pruning is one of important funds fruit tree care. ... Pruning of stone fruits is also carried out before the start of bud break. With pruning trees severely damaged by frost, do not rush ...

What should cropping include?

Optional in early spring(before flowering) remove branches heavily infected with bud mites. With a slight lesion, the branch is left, plucking out the buds infected with the mite.

In addition to this, one more thing to keep in mind important point- the apple tree actively grows wood at a young age and hardly feeds huge branches at the time of maturity and abundant fruiting. At this time, the growth of branches becomes minimal, and the overgrowing fruit branches begin to die off. Therefore, it is necessary to support the growth of shoots with fruit twigs and fruitlets with annual pruning, remembering that only 5-10% of the crop yields old fruit formations, and 90-95% young ones. And with a decrease in the length of growths (they become shorter than 20-25 cm), in addition to the annual “refreshing” pruning to remove dry and thickening shoots, a weak rejuvenating pruning will also be required. First, the branches are cut out to two or three years old wood, and then the old weakened annulus are also removed, which almost do not bear fruit, consuming, however, a lot nutrients. Naturally, at the same time, branches that thicken the crown are regularly removed in order to increase growth and stimulate fruiting.

You need to use only high-quality and well-ground secateurs and loppers - a bad tool can cause significant wounds.
Annual growths should be removed to a minimum;
In the second year, you need to cut the side branches to the growth bud. But you can prune to a triple kidney at a distance of 40 cm from the trunk. With these actions, you will stimulate growth activity in young and new shoots in the future growing season. This summer, 4 strong shoots with a main side branch are chosen: one will extend the branch, and the rest will form 8 main side branches. The rest of the shoots are removed;

Pruning young peach is carried out as follows:

loppers;

The cutting process itself.

N.BORYSENOK, agronomist, Brest
Another problem solved by this operation is to limit the growth of strongly growing trees. At the beginning of summer, you can simply break out weak shoots. Later, when they become woody at the base, it will be more difficult to do this. From time to time in June and July, pinch the tops of the shoots (tweezing) in order to limit the growth of trees and correct the structure of the crown.
landart.ru›Pruning apple and pear trees

Peach Trimming Timing

In addition, during flowering, fragments of branches affected by terry are cut out with an approach to the healthy part.

Cherry pruning

The tool should be kept clean - a clean tool cuts better.

During severe winters, they carry out a strong pruning.

Instrument preparation

in the third year - they shorten the conductor by 1/3 by circumcision by one kidney. Three shoots are directed in the right direction with the help of a rail in the same way;

During planting, the seedlings leave three or four lower shoots, and the rest are cut off;
saws;
Peach cupping chart
An integral part of the care of fruit trees is regular pruning branches. This is necessary in order to form the crown correctly, increase productivity, and prevent the development of diseases. In order not to harm the plant itself, this should be done only in certain time and knowing which branches can be removed and which not.

Note

Trimming process

One autumn I did a rejuvenating cherry pruning so well that it bloomed in my autumn. Cut down the second tree. Too close to each other.

It is usually carried out in late autumn, but pruning is also possible in early spring.

It takes much more time than, for example, pruning an apple tree - on the one hand, this is due to the peculiarities of the growth and development of its branches, and, on the other hand, damage from coccomycosis. The main task of pruning and shaping the crown of cherries is to achieve perfectly leafy, healthy and well-lit branches. In other words, you need to firmly say "no" to all sick, bare, thickening and weak cherry branches.

It is best to prune plants during the transition from winter dormancy to spring awakening - such early spring pruning is usually safer for plants. During this period, large perennial branches can also be cut in the case of anti-aging pruning. As for medium-sized shoots (of the last and the year before last), then in a limited number and in good condition of the tree, pruning can be done a little later - at the end of spring or at the very beginning of summer.

A properly shaped crown and timely pruning will definitely benefit your tree.

In the fourth year, the peach begins to bear fruit. With this, crown formation ends and only thinning pruning is carried out.

The first year - they pinch the main conductor;

Secateurs.

The most important questions that concern young and novice gardeners: how and when to prune a peach. The answer to them is not as simple as many people think.

Cherry just needs to cut the crown every year. This will help her fight diseases, increase yields and increase the size of the berries, as sunlight and air will circulate calmly in the tree. This procedure should be carried out at a time when the plant is in a state of complete rest (in winter or early spring), but experienced gardeners It is recommended to repeat it even after harvest. Whether it is necessary to prune the branches of cherries in the summer and when this can be done, we will tell in our article.

During the period of fruit setting and growth, when fruit trees loaded with crops, heavy pruning should be avoided, as it can lead to stunted fruit growth due to a decrease in leaf area.
Crop on next year did not receive!
Prune off branches that grow too far or too low or intersect with others, preventing their growth. At the same time, it is necessary not to damage the short, 2-3 cm long branches with buds - in the spring flower brushes will bloom on them.
Pruning is most often carried out in two stages - in late autumn or early winter, obviously weak and thickening branches are removed, and in late spring or even early summer - all other unnecessary shoots, because before bud break, it is often impossible to clearly distinguish between living and dying branches.

Pruning apple trees

As you know, many gardeners (especially those who recently acquired a house in a village with existing fruit and berry plantations) are, to put it mildly, cool about pruning fruit trees and shrubs. It is understandable - is it worth cutting the currant if it already yields a crop, and it’s not even worth talking about cutting gooseberries, because the thorns scare away even quite persistent ones.

Video "Correct peach pruning"

Scheme for the formation of a bowl-shaped peach crown

How to properly form a crown

Second year - shortening is carried out in the spring by 1/3 of the length of the grown shoots;

All tools must be sharp in order for the cut to be smooth and precise. Using a blunt tool can cause very severe damage to the tree. Also, all inventory must be clean and disinfected, otherwise healthy branches can be infected when cutting infected branches.

Therefore, in this article we will consider the following questions:

Despite the fact that the tree is not at rest, pruning can be done. During this period, this procedure is of a preventive or therapeutic nature. After all, if you notice signs of dying off branches, you should not wait until winter to remove them. In this case, the disease can not only destroy this plant, but also infect neighboring trees.

After the harvest of cherries, sweet cherries, peaches, apricots and early varieties drain, you can use standard pruning, brightening the crown.
This is a whole science and cannot be described in a nutshell. There are cases when, after a cold winter, a tree blossoms and then some of the branches die off. Therefore, pruning after harsh and unfavorable winters should be done with particular care. One more thing - this applies to fruit trees in which there is an annual periodicity in fruiting (one year there are many fruits, the next there are almost none), so for such trees, rejuvenating and simply pruning should be done in the year of abundant fruiting. Thus, reduce the load on the tree and reduce the frequency of fruiting.
Shorten unwanted side shoots to 5-7.5 cm. Cut off strong shoots on a bud pointing outward from the bush.
The main task of pruning cherries is to maintain growths of skeletal branches about 30-40 cm long so that they form on its shoots in in large numbers flower buds, which are the key to next year's harvest.

It can be different - depending on the age of the tree, the nature of the crown and other various circumstances, however, you can still formulate the basic rules for pruning fruit-bearing trees.

The situation is similar with other cultures, and each will have its own argument in favor of refusing to cut or move it in their plans for a very distant period. But all this is for the time being, for the time being, because after a couple of years, only memories will remain from the crops of currants and gooseberries (diseases and pests will try here), the cherry will take on a completely creepy appearance due to the bare branches due to coccomycosis, the apple trees will have a lot of drying branches, etc.

For varieties that are characterized by a dense placement of fruit buds, the so-called economic pruning is used. It consists in removing annual weak growths by 20 cm, and normal branches by 40 cm. Depending on the intensity of growth, from 3 to 8 groups of fruit buds are left on them.

Third year - eliminate parts of the crown and branches that grow inward. Horizontal shoots are pruned, as they will not bear fruit anyway, but only draw nutrients onto themselves.

Important nuances of cropping

I would like to note that the easiest is the cultivation and care of peach trees in the Crimea, Kuban or other warm areas. But if you live in colder regions, then don't worry. There is an American variety that can withstand even 40-degree frost. If you plant such a two-year-old seedling in the fall, then in the spring it will already bloom. Each tree requires care in the summer season and pruning in the fall or spring. You need to cut the branches before the buds swell and bloom. During this period, the condition of the kidneys that survived the winter will be clear.

Is it necessary to carry out spring peach pruning every year;
Summer pruning of extra branches prevents the development of a disease such as milky sheen, which very often affects cherries.
It is more favorable for trees than winter or spring. Indeed, in the last two cases, many large branches and lignified shoots of the last year are cut on fruit trees.
Venerable gardeners do not do pruning at all, they get by with a pinch. The only exception is the rejuvenating pruning of old trees.
Shorten about half the young shoots on the main branches - cut the shoots to a bud pointing up and out of the bush. This point applies only to modern intensive varieties, if you have old varieties, then they cannot cut off the tops of the branches, since this is where it will be in next year main crop.
Cut out all diseased, bare and weak branches.
To avoid weakening the trees, they should not inflict several large wounds in one year. Therefore, neglected, dense crowns must be brought into proper form not in one year, but gradually, over 2-3 years. However, it is much wiser to take care of the crown of trees in a timely manner - in this case, you can get by with minimal pruning.
Therefore, without regular and timely pruning the garden is indispensable. As a result of pruning, the number of branches is reduced, and all the juices of the plant are directed to the remaining leaves and fruits - the branches become stronger, and the fruits become larger. The color of fruits in a thinned pruning and therefore a well-lit crown will be richer, and the fruits themselves will be much tastier, and harvest from well-formed trees and berry bushes it will be much easier. In addition, by cutting out diseased and weak branches, you prevent the spread of diseases and pests, which, unfortunately, each of the cultures has a lot.

This type of pruning can be combined with replacement pruning. With it, strong fruit branches are shortened by the economic method, and weak mixed and growth branches are replaced by substitution (shortened by three buds).

plodovie.ru

peach tree pruning plan

Pruning peach trees includes several stages or so-called waves. A young peach is characterized by the presence of two to four waves of shoot growth.

Is it possible to prune in winter?

Basic rules for pruning fruit trees and shrubs

First of all, you need to know that summer pruning can only be done on adult plants (after 5 years), since seedlings can start to hurt after removing green branches.

In addition, during the period of mass pruning, cutting large branches of stone fruit trees in winter or spring is always fraught with the risk of infection of wounds with pathogens.

Autumn pruning stimulates the laying of flower buds, hence the future harvest. but if it is not important for you to receive flowers and fruits, but you need greenery, cut it in the spring. although it is dangerous in the spring.
Usually it is carried out in two stages: in late autumn, all diseased, old and thickening branches are cut out, in early spring - branches frozen in winter to the surviving buds.
In the inner part of the crown, all thickening branches are cut out, since they are of no value, since flower buds are not laid on them in shading.
In case of crown thinning instead of cutting a large number small branches it is better to remove 1-2 large ones. In this case, the tree will suffer to a lesser extent from the wounds inflicted on it. Pruning too many branches can cause dangerous stress for the plant, resulting in a decrease in the number of fruit buds.
You need to prune annually - irregular pruning leads to thickening of the crown, the accumulation of pests and diseases and reduced yields. If it is necessary to cut a large number of branches, it is undesirable to carry out all the pruning necessary for the plant at one time - it is better to stretch the process for 2-3 years. At the same time, you should not expect that pruning will compensate for care defects (insufficient top dressing, poor soil, unsuitable climate, etc.)
With this option of crown formation, you will create the most comfortable growing conditions for this fruitful tree.
On how successfully the question "how to cut a peach correctly?" depends on its yield, growth activity and life expectancy.
A young peach is characterized by the presence of two to four shoot growth waves. You can not cut a lot of branches from a young peach. This procedure is carried out mainly in the spring, less often in the fall. In young trees, it is necessary to thin out the crown no more than once a year.

Pruning fruit-bearing apple trees

How is the process of crown formation in spring.

If you are getting rid of diseased branches, in order to prevent the infection from spreading throughout the tree, the tool used must be disinfected after each cut. Such a danger is tree cancer and gum disease of the bark. In addition, spring pruning coincides with the mass reproduction of mushrooms. But in summer they form fewer reproductive organs, therefore the risk of infections is lower, and the tree is more resistant than in spring.

I did a major pruning about 5 years ago (or rather, a cardinal sawing of all the branches that grew far up), and now I annually do the so-called "green" pruning according to Kurdyumov (the book "Smart Garden") 3 times in the summer: I shorten the new shoots of the current year.
First, remove weak, dry (although they had to be cut back in the spring), diseased shoots and those lying on the ground, which only thicken the bush and reduce the yield.
In the peripheral part of the crown (where the lighting is more favorable), some of the branches are cut out, and the rest are forced to grow in different directions (mainly outward) by pruning above the lateral branches.
Dry branches must be cut to healthy wood, otherwise the wounds will not heal.
In the process of pruning fruit trees and shrubs, a number of important rules should be observed:
As you can see, how and when to cut a peach correctly are rather sensitive questions, during which there are certain nuances:
Below is a peach pruning video. Thanks to this video tutorial, you will be able to perform all the actions correctly and with maximum benefit for the tree.
Proper peach pruning includes pruning of all types of branches: mixed, summer, growth, generative, bouquet twigs and tops. The bulk of the crop is formed on bouquet branches or annual and strong branches. But rather small fruits are formed on the generative or fruiting branches. Do not forget that fruit and bouquet branches can die off after the first fruiting. As a result, the branches are quickly exposed, and the fruiting itself is transferred to a zone of stronger growth on the periphery.

How to choose the time when you can cut the peach? It is believed that the most the right time for peach pruning is spring. Pruning peach in the spring is carried out before the period when the buds begin to bloom or the budding process. After that, two or three times, peach pruning can be carried out in the summer. Last time the tree is pruned in August. This is how you should properly prune a peach in spring and summer in order to prevent severe depletion of the tree.

When thinning the crown, you should follow the same recommendations as for the winter one, that is, you need to get rid of intersecting and infertile branches.

cherry pruning

The spring decrease in the crown in adult fruit trees causes a strong growth of vertical tops in its upper part, which further greatly obscure the lower part of the crown and nullify the effect of pruning. Complete nonsense was written by E. Sotnichenko. The formation of fruit buds occurs in July - August, during the second, active sap flow. And in the fall, the trees are already preparing for winter rest and the trees will leave for the winter with unhealed wounds. All types of pruning (sanitary can be done in summer and autumn) are produced after the weakening of winter frosts - the end of winter, the beginning of spring. And they do it before the buds open (except for stone fruits, they need to be cut before the sap flow begins).

Then cut out weak young branches, which always grow quite a lot, after which several (3-5) strong annual shoots with good lighting and ventilation should remain on the bush.

Cut off the bare ends of the branches to the point where the branching stops - to the first (counting from the top of the branch) lateral branch (that is, they rejuvenate the branches for 2-3-year-old wood).

You can’t leave it when pruning stumps, however, you shouldn’t touch the bark on the bearing branch or stem either.
Do not leave split slices or stumps.
Strong pruning is necessary in warm and dry weather during budding or bud break;
How and when to cut a peach and form a crown - two important aspects in tree care. Most often form a fan-shaped or cup-shaped form. Exactly similar option optimal for such a light-loving tree, as you can see in the video.

Blackcurrant pruning

Spring peach pruning consists in thinning the crown. During it, diseased, dried branches, as well as those that have lost their fruitfulness, are removed. This will be clearly seen in the video below.

Pruning peach in the spring is used to form a crown, for better light and breathability. It is possible to prune a tree in spring in order to increase and stimulate fruiting.
Peach is increasingly found in our gardens. Due to its characteristics, this tree requires special attention. This also applies to peach pruning. In this article, we will figure out when it is necessary and how to properly trim a peach.
Therefore, in the apple and pear trees, all vertical shoots in the upper part of the lowered crowns should be cut out in August.
I summarize all of the above - now do sanitary pruning and anti-aging in the spring
If there are branches older than 5-6 years on the bush (they can be identified by smaller berries and by the very structure of the branch), then the worst of them must be removed. With a lack of younger fruit-bearing branches, the best of the 5-6-year-old branches can be left for another year. If there are enough fruit-bearing branches, then you can remove all the old branches in one go.
It is usually carried out in several stages. In late autumn, obviously bad and unnecessary branches are cut out, in early spring - branches severely affected by a bud mite, during flowering - fragments of branches affected by terry.

Red currant pruning

More radically, the upper branches should be cut, and not the lower ones - then the rays of light will penetrate the entire crown and provide good fruiting and on the lower branches.

It is better to pinch a branch in a timely manner than to cut it off later.
The method of circumcision should be chosen such that at the same time there is both a shortening of the growth for fruiting and for replacement;
Most often they use an improved version of this form with three or four main branches.

gooseberry pruning

Summer peach pruning is more aimed at eliminating branches damaged by winter frosts. During it, you need to check the annual growths and leave only medium-developed and strong branches that grow to the side, and are at least 10 cm apart from each other. At the end of August, rejuvenating peach pruning should be carried out.

All summer residents and gardeners dream that the trees on the site are beautifully trimmed and bear fruit well. In the first place, the abundance of the harvest of fruit trees and the good, healthy growth of branches can be facilitated by their annual pruning. As you know, by removing new young shoots and removing already outdated and withered branches, the gardener helps to improve metabolism. The forces of the tree begin to go to a smaller number of branches, due to which they become stronger, stronger and the fruits are sweet and large.

Is it possible to prune fruit trees in summer

The main stages of pruning fruit trees should be carried out in spring and autumn, when the fruits have not yet begun to set and when they have already fallen. Therefore, many gardeners do not know if it is possible to prune fruit trees summer. In June and July, this procedure should not be missed, perhaps it should even be carried out without fail.

In summer, young, green shoots are mainly formed. Many believe that they should be allowed to grow and that young branches will help bring bountiful harvest and give life to an old tree. But this is not entirely true, such a procedure allows you to give more strength and energy to other, already fruitful branches. In addition, the crown is thinned out in this way. Here the positive aspect is not only visual effect that it will look prettier and neater. Crown thinning allows sunbeams it is better to pass through the leaves, and so the fruits will be much more saturated with the sun, therefore, they will ripen faster and will be juicy, large.

Summer pruning of fruit trees

Summer pruning of fruit trees is much easier to bear, as the trees gain strength from the sun, watering, and flowering. Thanks to this, wounds from cut twigs or shoots heal many times faster than in autumn or spring. Since during this period the trees either just begin to come to life after winter, or are already preparing for its onset.

How to do summer pruning

In summer, the “pinching” or “pinching” method is popular, it consists in cutting the very tips of the young shoots of the tree, on which at that time there will be only a couple of leaves. It is better to repeat this procedure 1-2 times a month, and only in the fall will the time come when it will be possible to accurately determine the need for the complete elimination of the shoot or branch, since “pinching” can greatly slow down growth and completely prevent it for some time. .

Often, this pruning technique is used to avoid the appearance of young shoots, on which buds may prematurely begin to appear in the spring. In this case, the leaves will appear early, and the reappearance of buds, buds and, accordingly, fruits will be strongly delayed.

Important! It is also necessary to remove the shoots that appear on the main trunk, completely breaking out from the root. They grow vertically and are of no use, since they will not produce fruit-bearing branches.

There is another rarely used technique called "break". Its essence is to break a growing branch. The branch will begin to grow in the specified direction, for example, down or horizontally. Young sprouts are deformed quite easily, for this it is enough just to squeeze it with your fingers and bend it a little in the right direction. Thus, the sprout will be strengthened already in the required form. This procedure can be carried out with large branches that are already a couple of years old. To do this, you can cut them a little with an ax, but be careful not to break the branch completely. The cut needs to be made just above the middle so that the fiber in the center holds the branch and transfers nutrients to it.

Pruning shoots

Pinching - what is it

But the most useful and most commonly used trimming method is “tweezing” (probably from the word “tweezers”, the task of which is to remove one hair, thread, etc.). The branch is cut off, or rather its young shoots at the very beginning in the place where it grows from the main branch or tree. It is important to leave the very beginning of the young shoot, for example, the lower pair of leaves. Thus, soon a new shoot will begin to appear from the cut off place.

When the young branch becomes a couple of centimeters in size and leaves begin to appear on it, the procedure should be repeated. Thus, repeating these actions after a certain period of time, the gardener will achieve the formation of strong young shoots. Strength will not be spent on countless thin and weak shoots. Strong branches with strong wood will gradually form, which will give a rich harvest next year. In the same year, they will only increase the flow of juices to already growing fruits.

Attention! It is important to figure out exactly how to cut the branches. Too slanting a cut will be wrong, but also you do not need to cut straight, the angle of inclination should be maintained at about 15-25 °. It is important to keep the distance between the cuttings of the leaves and the trunk. You can't cut right after the shoot, but you shouldn't leave too much wood on top of this place either. The ideal distance from the shoot will be 1-3 cm.

It is best to cut the shoots that are directed deep into the crown or vertically, those that are directed to the sides are best left until the onset of autumn. If everything is done according to the indicated scheme, then with the onset of autumn, it remains to cut off only the shoots that begin to grow and side branches of small diameter.

Tree pruning principles

Shrubs should also be cut in summer, the technology is basically the same, but there are nuances. AT summer period it is worth working on the volume of the bush. If the gardener wants it to be more magnificent, then you need to cut the shoots or young branches from the inside. So the growth will be directed exactly there, and the bush will look more magnificent. Circumcision should be done even in newly planted seedlings, since they need strength the most.

Summing up, it is worth noting that summer pruning of fruit trees consists in removing young branches that do not carry functional value. They only take strength from the main tree, and with each remote shoot the tree becomes lighter, and it saturates with life all the remaining parts and, mainly, the fruits.

In the Moscow region, the Leningrad region and other regions of the country, the weather is cold for most of the year, and summer is a kind of island of heat, on which trees can bloom in full force for such short term. Therefore, it is at this time that they require the most care and attention. In addition, do not forget that in warm weather, when the trees have already gained enough strength, they should be cut off. At the same time, the rate of healing and crust formation will be several times greater than after a similar procedure carried out at other times of the year.

Pruning fruit trees in summer.

Techniques for the care and acceleration of the fruiting of fruit trees.

In the last century, Professor Peter Genrikhovich Schitt developed a special type of summer pruning of fruit trees, thanks to which flower buds do not awaken so quickly during winter thaws and freeze less. It consists in a strong shortening of summer leafy shoots, and when there is no harvest - and even thicker branches. Produced in late May - June. After pruning fruit trees in the same summer, normally developed new growths appear by the end of August, flower buds are laid on them with some delay. The latter react less to thaws in the second half of winter.

In addition, during the summer period, various operations are applied on fruit trees, which complement the winter pruning of fruit trees, contribute to the formation of crowns, and regulate the growth and fruiting of fruit trees. Along with summer pruning of fruit trees, this includes operations such as pasynkovanie, armoring (pinching), the slope of the branches of fruit trees.

With the help of these operations, the formation of crowns is facilitated and accelerated, the precocity of fruit trees and the quality of fruits increase, during this period wounds heal better after pruning fruit trees.

In stone fruits prone to gum leakage, summer pruning eliminates this danger, unlike winter pruning fruit trees.

But with a large number of advantages listed above, this operation has its drawbacks:

The foliage of crowns is reduced;

The development of fruit trees is weakened compared to winter pruning;

Yield may be reduced.

Vegetation may be delayed.

However, at present, with the availability of very effective biostimulants growth, fruiting, anti-stress drugs such as Novosil, Immunocytofit, Zircon (Epin), as well as biofertilizers (Baikal EM1), the problem is resolved. Therefore, it is recommended to use summer pruning of fruit trees mainly as an addition to pruning carried out in the cold season. Particularly effective summer peach pruning, as the frequent freezing of flower buds in the winter - spring period leads to the loss of not only the crop, but also the fruit trees themselves. Therefore, in the spring, in the flowering phase (if the buds are not frozen) or in the phase of bud break, light pruning of fruit trees is carried out, choosing dry, warm weather. And after fruit set, they begin summer pruning of fruit trees, removing all shoots growing inside the crown, as well as shoots that thicken the crown, on which there are no set fruits. Branches with fruits are shortened above the top fruits that have set.

With such pruning of fruit trees, it is really possible to save all the remaining fruits. If the fruits are well tied, then in order to obtain large, high-quality fruits, in the “green walnut” stage, they must be thinned out at the time of stone formation. Do not be "greedy", help the tree to bring up the harvest in this way.

If flower buds are damaged in the autumn - winter period or during return periods spring frosts ovaries are destroyed, it is recommended to shorten all overgrowing branches for the first 2-3 shoots, which will ensure the development of strong replacement branches from low-lying buds.

As for the summer pruning of apricot fruit trees, it is used to increase the winter hardiness of fruit buds. It should be remembered that the apricot quickly comes out of dormancy, so it is often damaged by return frosts.

Fruit buds of apricot, laid on the second wave of growth, in comparison with fruit buds on the main annual growth, will lag behind in development by two weeks. Consequently, they come out of dormancy later and avoid damage by return frosts.

Shortening the shoots of the current year by more than 25 - 30 cm with the help of a pruner causes the emergence of new 2 - 3 growths of the second growth wave, on which flower buds are laid.

It must be remembered that this pruning of fruit trees, performed in the period from May 20 to June 10, gives a positive effect on young trees that have not yet fruited, and then in the first years of fruiting when combined with early spring pruning of fruit trees, i.e. Only a combination of these two operations can give good results.

Summer pruning of fruit trees is desirable to carry out on young trees:

Cherries - to avoid ankles;

Large-fruited cherry plum - to create a strong skeleton, i.e. crowns;

Plums - to limit the strength of growth, the fastest entry into fruiting, it is no secret that plums come into fruiting late, in the 6th - 8th year, etc.

Summer pruning of fruit trees is used to care for frozen trees, when it is difficult to establish the boundaries of the death of branches.

Move their pruning to the time when the buds are fully blooming. In this operation, shorten the branches to less damaged side branches or regrown fat shoots.

Close to pruning fruit trees in terms of their effect on shoots are techniques such as pinching and pinching.

Pasynkovanie - breaking out excess green shoots at the beginning of their growth. This technique is akin to pruning fruit trees with thinning. Shoots that are useless to the tree and thicken the crown are best removed at the beginning of their development. Early cutting of shoots in comparison with pruning fruit trees in winter reduces your labor costs, the useless consumption of plastic substances by the tree, and wounds heal faster.

Armor - removal of the top of the growing shoot. It is usually performed with a fingernail, but when the deadline is missed, or the shoot is already lignified, or it is necessary to remove most of the shoot, then a garden knife or pruner is used.

Weak armor when removing the top of the shoot with 2 - 3 undeveloped leaves, weakening the intensity of shoot growth, delay it for 10 - 15 days, while due to the redistribution of nutrients, nearby weak shoots will increase.

With a strong shell, the lateral buds below the cut wake up better and faster, they feed well and good side shoots are obtained. The germination of lateral buds mainly depends on the degree of excitability of the breed or variety.

The greatest excitability, i.e. shoot formation, such breeds as peach, apricot, cherry plum, sweet cherry, certain plum varieties (R. Altana, Hungarian Azhanskaya, Kuban legend), cherries (Achievement, Chernokorka) have. This is the basis for the use of summer operations to improve the condition of these stone fruits, increase their productivity, i.e. to reduce the growth of the tree, but to enhance the process of laying flower buds.

There is a condition that amateur gardeners must comply with: avoid pinching all the tops of the shoots at once, leave some of the unpinned ones, which will take on most of the nutrients, and this will reduce the formation premature escapes.

By pinching, you can turn any spinning top into a fruit twig faster than with trees in the autumn-winter period. Cutting off the continuation shoots in the summer, when they reach the required length of 30 - 40 cm, but did not have time to complete growth, i.e. until half of June, you can cause the formation of branches next order in the same season. The same techniques are widely used in nurseries, using them in the formation of seedlings of fruit trees.

In most breeds and varieties, the axial shoot of an annual seedling begins to form lateral branches already in the first weeks of growth, which inhibit vertical growth. That is why it is possible to remove all the lower lateral branches in the stem area in a timely manner. This is an operation that is harmless to the plant - when they are broken out in a grassy state, without damaging the leaves, in the axil of which there are shoots.

Cherries, plums, and cherry plums that grow strongly in the nursery shoot by the end of the season continuation with a good agricultural background grows up to 2 - 2.5 m. pinch the top until June 10 - 15. On such a plant, a crown with good divergence angles will be laid by autumn.

Another of the tricks, very rarely used by amateur gardeners, but extremely necessary for serious gardening, is the slope of the branches.

branch slope - effective reception that regulates the growth of branches. Their deviation from the vertical weakens the polarity, the progressive growth of branches, and at the same time enhances the shoot-forming ability and fruiting of young trees.

Instead of removing or shortening strong shoots and branches, it is best to give them a more horizontal position, and give preference to weakly branching varieties.

By engaging in the described methods of summer operations, you will significantly accelerate the formation of young fruit trees and their entry into fruiting, reduce the useless consumption of plastic substances by the tree and increase the productivity of trees.

Often inexperienced gardeners wonder - is it possible to prune fruit trees in the summer? There are several seasons for tree crown trimming: spring and autumn. Summer pruning is deservedly ranked among them. What is it for and what shoots need to be cut?

Pruning fruit trees in summer

As we have already determined, it is possible to prune fruit trees in summer. Summer time is ideal for crown formation. The gardener can not only give it a certain aesthetic appearance, volume, as it was during spring pruning, but also create new shoots.

Pruning is carried out on annual or biennial shoots of brownish, reddish and slightly greenish color. A properly cut upper bud at a 45-degree angle will produce rapid growth of new leaves. After pruning in the summer, you will notice that the bud has forked and formed new shoots-leaves. The branch will continue to grow.

Thus, those shoots that need to be accelerated in growth are cut off. The laying of new shoots is carried out exclusively in the spring, because before winter period and the upcoming cold weather, given that the procedure was carried out in the summer, the formation of new kidneys is not carried out.

What shoots can still be cut in the summer on fruit trees?

You can combine summer pruning with sanitary pruning. In addition to shoots to enhance growth, those that do not bear fruit, are broken, mechanically damaged, and so on are affected. Of course, you need to take into account the fact that during the spring-summer season, fruit trees can suffer from viral or bacterial infections, or be affected by pests. Pruning fruit trees in the summer helps to remove damaged, diseased parts of the tree, after which it is fully restored.

Fruiting shoots are also pruned in case of a competitive situation. We cannot allow all fruit-bearing shoots to develop on fruit trees, otherwise there will be increased branching and thickening of the crown, which is fraught with its own consequences.

We would advise you to refrain from formative pruning, as well as sanitary and restorative pruning - all types of pruning are best done in the spring. What can be used is the regenerative pruning of fruit trees in the summer as an opportunity to reanimate old trees. In this case, shoots that are more than two or three years old are removed, or very neglected crowns are processed.

Pay attention to the wen, which can sprout from pruned branches, that is, young twigs. They also need to be cut off, always on the second kidney, otherwise the uncontrolled growth of these wen will begin. But wen can be useful when a gardener wants to grow a young one on an old branch. How to use this technique - to continue or eliminate - is up to the gardener with his fruit tree.

In addition to knowing which branches and how to cut, the gardener needs to navigate the tools - a pruner for the diameter of the branch or a sharp knife for thin shoots will do. All instruments must be well sharpened and processed so as not to introduce an infection into the wound. After making the cut, you need to wait a while and process it.

(No ratings yet, be the first)

Until I began to closely engage in the garden that my parents planted, I didn’t know anything about the need for summer pruning of fruit trees. I was even sure that trees are pruned only in early spring or late autumn. But it turns out that fruit trees need pruning almost the whole year. By the way, the formation of the crown is a creative process, so creative that once I got so carried away that some kind of slingshot turned out of my favorite apricot. So that correct pruning it is a beautiful appearance garden, but not only ... The harvest also depends on this.

Of course, the main pruning operations are carried out in the garden in spring and autumn. And summer pruning of fruit trees is a “work” with green, non-lignified or young shoots that have just begun to be covered with thin bark. Its purpose: firstly, it is necessary to thin out the crown so that it becomes evenly lit and sufficiently ventilated, and, secondly, to provide access to each branch when spraying trees from pests and diseases.

In summer, mainly in June-early July, gardeners often use easy-to-perform tree pruning operations - pinching, tweezing, breaking, breaking, pruning. Let's consider each method separately.

Pinching

This technique allows you to suspend the growth of shoots of the current year. During summer pruning, we remove (pinch) the top of a green branch with three to five leaves. We usually do this when it is difficult to decide in the summer whether we will leave this branch in the fall-spring or not, whether it will be here or not. After pinching, the growth of the branch stops for 1.5-2 weeks. The process can be repeated when the growth processes are resumed. We pinch vertically growing shoots or branches growing deep into the crown.

It is difficult to accurately determine the timing of the summer pinching, they depend on the strength of growth, the age of the tree, and the conditions of detention. For example, in such fruit trees as peach, apricot, cherry plum, pinching is carried out in the first half of June (in early spring - at the end of May), when young shoots begin active growth.

What result should be expected from summer pinching? This is the growth of shoots from newly awakened buds, their timely ripening for winter.

tweezing

This pruning technique differs from pinching only in that we do not pinch off 3-5 leaves from the top of the branch, but, on the contrary, leave 3-5 leaves on the bottom of the branch. On this branch, a new shoot begins to grow from the upper leaf axil, which we also pinch (cut off), leaving 2-3 leaves. We carry out such an operation on young branches that grow from large (uterine) branches.

What is achieved by summer tweezing? Achieved full-fledged formation of wood near the mother branch, which in turn accelerates, increases and improves fruit formation.

Vylyomka

Vertical grassy shoots on cherry plum thicken the crown of the tree

This is a very simple trick. Most often used on stone fruit trees. With its help, the best illumination of the crown is achieved, as grassy vertically growing shoots break out, which are of no value for the formation of the crown. By the way, the tree easily tolerates summer breaking, since the resulting wounds heal much faster than cuts that need to be processed after spring-autumn pruning.

Breakdown

A technique rarely used by gardeners, but it is very effective when you need to give the shoots, which then become branches, the desired direction of growth - down or horizontally. By the way, the more horizontally the branch grows, the more harvest it has, the better it ripens. Keep this in mind when giving the branch a certain direction when it breaks. To do this, press on the twig in the place of the fracture with a fingernail. thumb and flatten it, pointing the lower part in the right direction. In the place of the fracture, a wound tissue is formed, which overgrows and fixes the shoot in the future.

By the way, you can break not only green shoots. For this operation, 2-3-year-old branches are suitable. If you notice that some branch is too long and it will be difficult to get fruits from it, you can direct its growth horizontally or break down. But here you can’t get by with a fingernail. You will have to carefully bend the branch so that the bark on the upper part of the branch bursts, and the central part only bends, slightly breaks. In the future, the fracture will overgrow, and the position of the branch will be fixed as it should. To be honest, I broke more than one branch before I got the desired result. Still, the reception of a fracture of lignified branches requires practical skills.

pruning

This summer pruning technique is somewhat similar to tweezing. Its purpose is that it allows you to get flower buds at the base of the shoots in the year of their growth.

The essence of the technique: we select branches on the tree that are not needed to form branches. It can even be vertically growing shoots. We cut them short almost to the base, but leaving two well-formed sheets. After 1.5-2 weeks, a new shoot sprouts from the upper bud on this stump with two leaves. We also cut it short. And a month later, a flower bud is formed in the axil of the leaf at the base of the shoot - this is the key to the future harvest.

The method of summer pruning - pruning - is interesting and quite effective, but in the case of a rainy summer it will not bring the expected result. Frequent rains will lead to the fact that when pruning, not only the upper, but also the second lower kidney will sprout. In this case flower bud may not form. That is, we will not reach the goal.

By the way, in this (2015) year, due to the prolonged warm autumn and sharp drops in air temperature to -20ºС, fruit buds on stone fruit trees (peach, apricot, cherry plum, plum) were badly damaged. In the spring, we got a lot of frozen dry branches, which had to be cut to living tissue. Then came heavy rains in April-May. This provoked the abundant growth of young shoots. If you do not carry out summer pruning of green or woody shoots, then by the end of summer we will get a too dense crown, which will be more difficult to thin out in autumn. In addition, such abundant growth of branches will further weaken our trees that have survived such a difficult winter.