What is an apple tree in spring. Caring for apple trees in spring. Sanitary and shaping pruning

So you and I laid our apple orchard, having previously chosen the ones we liked, having bought seedlings and to pre-selected places.

Our still very young garden really needs constant care and attention, because only by giving something away, we can count on reciprocal gratitude in the form of generous harvests.

Competent will provide the owner for the whole winter period tasty and very healthy fruits.

Only with proper care will the apple orchard become our pride and the main decoration of the backyard.

How to grow an apple tree correctly, how to take care of it - you will tell you about this now.

Apple tree care, good feeding

The apple tree requires additional nutritional supplements several times a year. Top dressing is especially important for young trees.

But with young growth, you should be very careful when fertilizing. Fertilizers (especially those containing nitrogen) must be diluted with plenty of water.

Spring top dressing

Spring is the time of life, and it is during this period that apple trees are in dire need of fertilizers that stimulate flowering. When choosing fertilizers, take into account the soil on garden plot.

At sandy ground Supplements with nitrogen will be useful, but nitrogen is not needed for black soil.

The degree of soil moisture plays an important role in the application of fertilizers in spring:

With good watering of trees, fertilizers can be applied to large quantities. In wet, damp weather, they are applied dry. Just scatter the substance near the trunk, along with rainwater, top dressing will get to its destination.

At apple tree care Foliar top dressing (crown spraying) is also necessary. Perform this procedure in the early morning or late evening (the main thing is that there is no sun in the sky).

At cloudy weather you can spray the crown during the day. For foliar supplements, the fertilizer must be diluted or the leaves may be scorched.

◊ The first leaves. The first fertilizer is applied in the spring, as soon as the first leaves appear. At this time, the apple tree needs root top dressing nitrogen supplements.

Additives are made for digging around the entire perimeter of the crown. You can choose one of the following fertilizers (per apple tree):

Nitroammophoska and ammonium nitrate: 30-40 g.
Urea: 500-600 g.
Humus: 4-5 buckets.

◊ Flowering. During flowering, the apple tree also needs food. At this time, it is better to apply liquid fertilizers (if the weather is dry).

You can choose one of the following variations (based on one tree 4 buckets of composition). All the following top dressings should be diluted in 10 liters of water:

Potassium sulfate: 60-70 g and superphosphate: 100 g.
Slurry: 0.5 buckets.
Chicken manure: 1.5-2 liters.
Urea: 250-300 g.

◊ Pouring fruits. The third fertilizer in a row when caring for an apple tree is applied after its flowering (the phase of filling and fruit ripening). Choose one of the compositions:

Sodium humate: 10 g, nitrophoska: 0.5 kg per 100 liters of water (calculation 2-3 buckets per tree).
Green top dressing (dilute with water 1x10). Place the green parts of the grass in a large container and fill them with water. Close the containers with polyethylene with holes made. After 20-25 days, the green nutritional supplement is ready.

Summer top dressing

In summer, trees need not only nitrogen supplements, but also fertilizers rich in phosphorus and potassium. In hot weather, feed the apples several times. The minimum break between the introduction of summer fertilizers: 10-14 days.

◊ June. The first summer fertilization is carried out in mid-June. Urea is introduced foliarly.

If the month turned out to be rainy, fertilize the root zone. Urea should be diluted with water in the required proportion.

The older the tree, the higher the concentration of urea should be. When spraying, treat the stem with urea as well - it will kill all pests on the apple tree.

◊ July. In the July care for the apple tree, it is useful to feed it with potassium and phosphorus-containing additives. During this hot time, top dressing is carried out by spraying the crown.

Distribute the composition evenly throughout the foliage. Need a tree and nitrogen feed. Between mineral and nitrogen top dressing, pause for 1-2 weeks.

Autumn top dressing

In autumn, apple trees no longer need foliar feeding, otherwise the trees will not have time to prepare for winter rest.

In autumn, apple trees need potassium-phosphorus supplements:

The compositions can be bought ready-made, diluted with water and applied over the crown area, following the instructions.
You can cook them yourself: potassium (1 tablespoon), double superphosphate in granules (2 tablespoons) per 10 liters of water. Pour the composition over the garden with the expectation of 1 square. m. 10 l of solution.

Top dressing is a simple matter, but requires an individual approach. Growing apple trees, important tips for beginner gardeners:

When caring for dwarf apple trees, reduce the amount of fertilizer by 25-30%.
In order for liquid fertilizers to be better absorbed by the plant, apply them to holes 30 cm deep. Dig these holes around the entire circumference of the trunk perimeter.
But such holes cannot be made when fertilizing columnar apple trees (their root system is located too close to the ground surface, so the roots can be damaged). For these varieties of apple trees, it is better to scatter fertilizers in a dry form under the trunks or simply water the root perimeter.

If the apple trees lack any element, they will immediately inform the owner about this by changing their appearance.

What is missing	How does the apple tree react?
nitrogen	The leaves begin to shrink and turn pale.
Bora	The leaves curl, shrink, the veins on them turn yellow, leaf chlorosis may begin.
Iron	The foliage turns yellow and loses its color, the leaves begin to die off along the edges, young shoots lag behind in development.
Potassium	The leaves acquire a dull, green-blue color and fall down along the edges.
Calcium	The foliage begins to turn white and curl up, then fall off.
Magnesium	The leaves acquire a red, yellow or purple color (they remain green along the edges and veins).
Copper	Despite the good care of the apple tree, its leaves turn pale, brown spots appear. Then they become lifeless and colorful.
Phosphorus	The crown of the trees becomes dull, dark green with a bronze tint. Sometimes purple or red hues appear on the foliage.
Zinc	The leaves become very small, wrinkled and narrow, acquire a mottled pattern.

Life-giving moisture

Timely watering is very important for apple trees. Many gardeners start watering trees whenever water is available. This is wrong!

For the normal development of the tree, three times a day watering is quite enough (provided that the soil is saturated with moisture up to 80 cm).

First watering: during flowering (early summer).
Second watering: early July (time of rapid fruit ripening).
Third watering: October, before the expected frost.

In areas where climatic conditions are dry, it is better to increase the frequency of watering.

If the humidity is high or the summer is rainy, the amount of watering can be reduced.

Ideal water for apple trees should be + 18-25 ° C.

Experienced gardeners when caring for an apple tree, it is advised to calculate the right amount of water, taking into account the age of the tree (how old it is - how many buckets of water it needs). According to accepted norms, a tree at the age of 1-2 years needs 4-5 buckets for watering, an adult fruit-bearing tree needs 7-10 buckets for each square meter of the trunk perimeter.

Young trees need more moisture - because they grow. They need to be watered 4-5 times per season.

Trees should be watered directly under the neck of the root. Thus, water will penetrate the root faster.

Apple trees up to 3 years of age are best watered into the holes. Older trees can add water in a furrow way (grooves are made 50-60 cm deep).

2-3 days after watering, loosen the soil and mulch it (you can use peat, humus, sand or sawdust).

If watering with a hose, make sure that the water pressure is directed along the perimeter of the entire crown.

Apple tree care, pruning features

For a good, rich harvest, apple trees need sunlight. To provide the trees with access to the necessary light, apple trees are pruned.

This operation is carried out at different times of the year:

◊ Spring. In March-April (before the foliage blooming period), when caring for an apple tree, pruning is carried out to form a tree crown.

At this time, the apple tree has the most highly developed regenerative abilities (abundant juice secretion has not yet begun, so the wounds will heal faster and better).

◊ Summer. During this period, many young shoots appear at the apple tree - they need to be thinned out, the rest should be diluted.

◊ Autumn. Autumn pruning prepares apple trees for winter. At this time, the trees need to be freed from infertile shoots, too large branches, as well as dried shoots.

crown formation

The formation of the crown of an apple tree can be carried out in several ways. All the proposed methods have one goal: to provide the tree with the right balance between the main (central) conductor and the branches originating from it.

Crown formation options:

♦ Longline-discharged. The easiest and most popular way to care for an apple tree. This formation increases the yield of the tree, while its appearance remains as natural as possible.

In the spring, we measure a zone on a young seedling at a distance of 50 cm from the ground. Above this area, we measure another area of 30 cm - this area (stem) is intended for the first order of the apple tree. The first order includes three main shoots.
After 10 months, shoots form in the trunk. They need to be removed. In the first row, we save a branch for a length of 30 cm, then 2 shoots with a distance of 20 cm. All branches will be located in a mirror arrangement.
In the next season, we lay the next row at a distance of 45 cm after the previous zone.

Formation completed. Now you need to timely cut off the growing main process from above above a single branch.

The total growth of such an apple tree should not exceed two meters.

♦ Spindle crown. This is a quick way (when caring for an apple tree, a small number of branches are subject to processing). Complete formation takes place over 3 years.

And the apple tree begins to bear fruit in the second season. The design is a basic shoot, from which the central shoots diverge in different directions.

In the first year of life, we cut off the apple tree, leaving a small area of \u200b\u200bthe skeleton.
When the first shoots sprout on the skeleton, we create the second row, rejecting the central branches on different sides.
The skeleton is cut again the following year.
In the third year of operations, the formation is completed.

During this time, the apple tree grows up to three meters. In the future, it is necessary to shorten the branch over any non-vertical shoot in a timely manner.

♦ Cupped crown. This technique is best for trees with poor growth. The method is a bit similar to the tiered-discharged method, but has its own characteristics:

In the initial row, three branches are bred in different directions so that the wiring angle is about 130º.
The main branch is cut at a distance of 45 cm from the trunk. It is shortened over the central shoot. We need to get two shoots from three divorced branches.

The same procedure is carried out for the next season when caring for an apple tree. In this case, the tree will become stronger and stronger. His immunity will also increase.

♦ Vertical palmette. This method of formation is suitable for apple trees growing around the perimeter of the garden and creating a natural fence. The implementation of this method will take 4 years.

With this method, the branches from the central trunk turn into a flat surface located on a horizontal line.

In each row, all branches on the tree trunk are cut off, leaving only a couple of branches growing in different directions.
All levels are symmetrically formed vertically with a distance of 80-90 cm.
All processes that appear on the main shoots are bent. Apples will ripen on them in the future.
If the main branches have significantly moved away from the central part, they should be tightened, and the processes (if the slope is insufficient) should be pulled back.

With this method, the height of the tree can be adjusted by annual pruning of the trunk and base shoots. In breadth, an apple tree can grow by 2-3 meters.

Anti-aging pruning

Thanks to this method, when caring for an apple tree, you can endlessly get delicious fruits from it. To do this, you need to open the center of the tree as much as possible and thin out the rest of the branches.

First of all, the central trunk is shortened by 1/3, then thickened areas are thinned out. The cutting angle must be at least 45º.

This procedure is best done in the spring, during the dormant period of the tree and in the absence of leaves.

harvest time

So that our ripe apples can be stored for a long time (and the fruits autumn varieties can last until April), pick the fruits from the tree very carefully (work with cotton gloves so as not to damage the delicate skin).

Fruits lying and crushed on the ground should not be stored - they can immediately be put into processing.

Remove apples together with the stalk - it contributes to long storage. A natural wax coating forms on the fruits - no need to wipe it, it protects the apples from overdrying and the influence of various microorganisms, which will help in caring for the apple tree.

Harvesting should be done in dry weather and preferably in the afternoon.

◊ Summer varieties of apples. They begin to collect in August. These types of apples are not stored for a long time.

But you can harvest the fruits 2-3 weeks before full ripening and store at a temperature of 0-3 ° C.

◊ Apples of autumn varieties. The fruits are harvested in late August-early September. During this period, they are still not quite mature and slightly sour.

Until fully ripened, they must be held for 2-3 weeks in storage. With proper storage, apples of autumn varieties will delight you with taste for 3-4 months.

◊ Winter varieties of apples. They are removed in October. Freshly harvested from the tree, they have a harsh flesh and a sour taste.

They need about 2-3 months to mature. But these varieties are stored for a very long time - until April.

How to properly store apples

Freshly harvested fruits should be cooled to +4 ° C and immediately placed in storage.

As a rule, apples are stored in wooden boxes for storage. But such a container has a drawback - the tree can rot.

You can also use plastic containers (previously washed and disinfected).

To improve the preservation of apples, containers are sprinkled with sawdust of hardwood.

It is better not to use conifers - they give the fruits a characteristic resinous smell.

Also, do not use straw - it quickly becomes moldy.

Wood chips should have no more than 15-20% moisture content.

It is also useful to shift the fruits of an apple tree with maple or oak foliage, peat chips, dry moss. These herbal ingredients have antibacterial properties.

Pre-apples are sorted by variety, degree of maturity and size. Large fruits ripen the fastest.

Choose containers for storing them with small gaps.

Before placing apples there, treat the containers with a solution of bleach and dry well.
At the bottom of the box, place sheets of clean paper and sawdust in the amount necessary to completely cover the first layer of fruit.
Put in the apples. Each fruit is best isolated by wrapping it in paper. The very last layer of fruit is covered with paper leaves, covered with sawdust.
The container is sealed.

To isolate the layers of apples, they can be separated by spacers made of cardboard or synthetic material. This will help to avoid the spread of diseases in stored fruits and ensure their protection during transport.

We got acquainted with the basic rules for caring for apple trees, but only mechanical care for our garden will not be enough.

It is equally important to love him and be grateful for the beauty and joy that he gives us!

And our garden will gladly protect us with its crown from the sun in hot summer, delight us with the beauty of its flowering in spring and, of course, give us a rich harvest of beautiful apples in autumn.

I wish you good luck, good harvests and that your garden never gets sick and pests do not annoy it. But still, we will talk about the possible and our apple orchard in future articles.

I also suggest watching a video about caring for apple trees in order to "fix the material covered."

See you soon, dear readers!

An apple tree is a fruit crop, the fruits of which, in addition to vitamins, contain a lot of fiber and iron.

Care for a young apple tree should be comprehensive, not forgetting about watering and fertilizing, pruning and whitewashing, digging and protection.

Neglecting or performing only part of the entire program can drastically reduce both the quality and quantity of apples.

Newly planted or transplanted apple trees, in addition to watering 3 buckets each at planting, are watered three times. Watering apple trees for the first time half a month later from the moment of planting, the second - a month later, and the third - at the time of leaf fall. The volume depends on the weather. Often it is 4-6 buckets per tree.

When caring for a young apple tree, watering is carried out taking into account the occasional rains, the composition of the soil.

Irrigation timing:

the first - a couple of days before flowering;
the second - at the time of the fall of the excess ovary from apple trees;
the third - at the time of pouring apples;
and the last - in September or after leaf fall near apple trees.

Irrigation rate for soils of medium mechanical composition, it is 50-60 liters per apple tree, poured out in one irrigation. For clay soils and chernozems, water is needed less by 15%, and for sandy loam and drained peatlands, more by 20% of the specified volume.

If the climate is hot and the air is dry, then water is poured more often: somewhere twice, or even three times a month.

Important! The prevailing opinion in the Internet and paper publications about the burns of the leaves of apple trees from sprinkler irrigation is a manifestation of amateurism and does not contain even 1% of the truth. On the contrary, if the apple tree is not watered, it will be worse than if it is watered in the heat. It's just that the water sprayed in the crown by sprinklers will evaporate by 45% without getting into the root layer.

Fertilizers and top dressings

Fertilizers allow the apple tree to accumulate a large vegetative mass, which in the future will allow you to grow a lot delicious fruits. For this, in the first 2 years, top dressing is carried out in early spring.

The first top dressing is made with mullein infusion, and in May and June they do one foliar top dressing. complex fertilizer with microelements ("Zdraven-Turbo", "Agrovita for fruit trees", "Allianced for fruit trees").

Watch the video about cow dung fertilizer:

For root top dressing of apple trees with nitrogen in the spring it is necessary to pour out and level a bucket of compost or humus into the trunk circle.

In the following years, before the fruiting of apple trees, in addition to spring humus with simultaneous mulching of the near-stem circle (12-18 kg per tree), in the fall they make top dressing with phosphorus-potassium mineral salts, for digging or hoeing:

For southern gardens - potassium sulfate 25-35g, double superphosphate 25-35g; ash from a fire or wood ash 150 grams;
For the non-chernozem region - double superphosphate 35-45g, potassium sulfate 35-50 grams, ash or ash 250 grams.

ADVICE: Do not overfeed trees with fertilizers, especially nitrogen. This has a bad effect on the overwintering of apple trees and the keeping quality of apples. It would be better to supplement the nutrition with the subcortex “by leaf” with complex fertilizer (as indicated above) or the missing element.

It is also customary to feed apple trees that have just begun to bear fruit with urea, and in years with poor flowering, this can be done after.

To do this, 35 grams of urea are dissolved in 10 liters of water and the tree is treated with a sprayer.

First processing- as soon as the flower petals fell off the apple trees, the second - a month later, and the third - when pouring fruits. The last time the dose can be increased up to 55 grams if the weather is cool and the summer is damp.

Mulching and sodding

Mulching an apple tree grown according to the system "black steam" or steam-green manure system:

Significantly smooths out temperature fluctuations during a hot period in the habitat layer of suction roots;
Promotes biohumus accumulation;
And the reproduction and prosperity of beneficial soil biota;
Allows less water to evaporate
Do not form a dense crust on the soil after watering or rain.

Apple trees are mulched with rotted manure, garden compost, mass after breeding earthworms, former mushroom blocks, seed husks, flax tow, lowland peat.

IMPORTANT! The use of chaff, sawdust and shavings, straw and straw cutting, high-moor peat, bark from the peeling of coniferous trunks or spruce branches is strictly prohibited!

Where apple trees grow, you can sow leafy mustard, oilseed radish, phacelia, and peas. After they grow 25 cm, the plants are mowed and left in the garden, this is also a good type of mulch.

Sodding is sowing in the aisles of the garden such a mixture of herbs that will give a long-term green carpet, they mow it twice a season, and the entire mowed mass is left in the area of trunk circles.

The most suitable composition for most of the RF- this is perennial ryegrass 25%, sheep fescue 22%, shoot-bearing fescue 28%, meadow bluegrass 25%.

And here is this mixture for the southern gardens: red fescue 40%, meadow bluegrass 35%, pasture ryegrass 25%. But such sowing of grasses is permissible for the 9th year following the planting of apple tree seedlings.

Trunk processing and whitewashing

In all types of young apple orchards whitewash not only stems, but also branches, forming the basis of the tree.

The most suitable period for whitewashing will be from February 21 to March 31. And the further south the garden is located, the earlier it is whitewashed. This will protect the young, unroughened bark of apple trees from "sunburn" and from frost cracks caused by a sharp change in temperature.

For the whitewash itself, you can use carbide, quicklime and fluffy lime.

VERY IMPORTANT! In no case do not use bleach and compositions ready for work in damp rooms!!! It's dangerous for apple trees!

Whitewash recipe: In 8 liters of water poured into a 10 liter plastic bucket, dissolve 2 kg of fluff, 1 kg of fatty clay, 1 glass of skim milk, 10 grams of carpentry glue or 30 grams of office glue, or one fresh mullein cake.

Having prepared whitewash without glue, you will need to whitewash the entire garden after the first serious rain!

Watch the expert's opinion on the video - why do you need whitewashing of apple trees:

Late whitewashing of apple trees before the holidays in May, it will only decorate the garden, not really helping the apple trees. As well as whitewashing very old tree bark that is over 20 years old.

They whiten with maklovitsa trying to cover everything thoroughly. With a large number of apple trees, whitewashing is mechanized.

If for some reason whitewashing is not possible, then tying the branches and trunks of apple trees with old agrofiber, matting, sheaves of corn badylka (corn shoots left in the field for the winter) or spruce branches will also help apple trees “not burn” in the sun.

Treatment against diseases and pests

Chemical, biological protection against diseases and various harmful insects is one of the three important components in the question of how to care for a young apple tree.

Chemical protection of the garden should be carried out only as a destructive measure and in no case should be used "for the sake of prevention."

Because "chemistry" is equally dangerous for both harmful and beneficial insects, but harmful ones, having got used to the poison, multiply to incredible volumes, while beneficial insects recover much more slowly.

Annual Protection Plan

Time to bloom leaves:

Collection and burning of dry apples from branches;
Treatment of bark with a solution of washing soda during an outbreak of bark beetles or treatment of twigs and branches with a solution of urea (25%) from fungal spores.

When young leaves appear:

To prevent scab and rot, apple trees are treated with Bordeaux or HOM;
During the flight of weevil beetles, they are shaken off the branches onto the litter polyethylene in the evening or at dawn, followed by their extermination.

Bloom period:

At beetle damage more than half of the examined apple flowers are treated with Decis and Aktara according to the instructions;
Diseases are treated either by applying SCOR (according to the instructions), or using Bordeaux mixture when spraying apple trees;
Ticks are destroyed by the drug "Antiklesch" or "Aktelik";
Gnawing and sucking are destroyed by the preparations "Dendrobacillin", "Akarin (Agravertin)", "Entobacterin" - these are safer drugs.
But if the outbreak of harmful insects is large, then insecticides Imidacloprid (200 mg-600 mg), Thiamethoxam (200 mg) are used; Chlorantraniliprole (100 mg). But carefully and only after the apple trees have blossomed! The solution is prepared strictly according to the instructions, spending 2 liters per apple tree.

After flowering:

Apply to the trunks of apple trees trapping belts. In the south they are examined every 8 days, and in the northern regions once a month. In the presence of an accumulation of pests, they are burned.
15 days after flowering.

Trapping belts.

In a damp summer, the treatment of apple trees with Fitosporin and Alirin-B, or Gamair and Gliocladin, but if the disease progresses, then Quadris, Maxim and Diskor are used.

month after flowering.

With a strong need, the garden is sprayed against caterpillars of the codling moth, moths with Alpha-cypermethrin and Pirinex, but strictly according to the instructions!

18 days after the previous treatment.

If necessary, apple trees are sprayed a second time against the codling moth, leafworm, itching, aphids and rot.

Repeat after 17 days, only when the third generation of the codling moth appears in the garden, and without a strong flight, do not process it.

Early autumn time period before the onset of frost.

Processing the garden from wintering diseases and pests is whitewashing with blue vitriol, urea treatment and removal of rotten carrion.

Pruning branches from apple trees by season:

spring

Young apple trees need shaping and pruning in spring. The shoots that thicken the crown are cut off by 2/3, the weak ones and those killed by frost are cut out at all, like the broken ones. They also cut out competitors, spinning tops and growths.

If they are more than 56 cm - then by half, if less - then by 1/3. In addition, crossing branches and shoots with traces of diseases are removed.

In the spring, this is done either before the leaves unfold, or before flowering begins.

Watch the video on the formation of apple seedlings:

autumn

Apple trees are pruned at the end of leaf fall. And such pruning of young apple trees consists in a slight shortening of new shoots stretched out over the summer. Trees are heavily pruned - cleaned, cutting branches by a third of the length if the trees have not been cut at all before.

With a weak annual growth, cut off ½ of the shoots. If the growth is weak (less than 30 cm), then you should not remove large branches, this will further weaken the tree.

In autumn, all dry, too weak, broken shoots growing in the middle and shoots extending at an angle of 25 to 40 degrees from the trunk of the apple tree are removed.

IMPORTANT! A day with fogs and any kind of precipitation is not suitable for pruning apple trees!

Digging and tillage

Digging or hoeing in the garden they do it only when the soil is fully prepared (“ripeness”). It is forbidden to do this when the earth “smeares” the shovel (when digging, the earth does not loosen, but sticks to the tool). Dry soil is dusty.

Early in the spring scatter humus under the trees, like mulch on the soil, near the apple trees, in order to prevent the evaporation of moisture.

When digging the soil in the garden in the autumn, the depth of processing should be the smallest so as not to damage the roots of apple trees.

In the near-trunk areas, the land is cultivated 6-8 cm near the trunk and 11-14 cm at the end of the near-trunk zone; in the aisles, it can be loosened to a depth of a quarter of a meter.

A shovel, better than an “American”, stands with its edge to the trunk when digging, and loosening takes place in a circle, like a snail, with an increase in digging depth so as not to damage the main roots.

Digging the soil around the apple tree.

ADVICE: For the winter period, it is better not to crush the earth when digging in the garden, and keep it lumpy, with a hilly surface, this will provide the soil with moisture, and the wintering stages of pests will die during the winter. But in areas with high wind erosion, they dig up every 5 years and only in spring! The rest of the time they dig with forged pitchforks, and in strong winds they dig, only loosening the layer of soil, without twisting it.

Caring for apple seedlings in the first year of planting

Caring for an apple tree in the first year of planting is fertilizer, covering the near-stem circle with organic matter and creating a “correct” crown.

When starting to care for young seedlings of apple trees, do not forget about the treatment of diseases and pest control.

In the year of planting, the shoots on the apple tree are cut so that the roots can “feed” them. The more broken off the roots, the smaller the crown left.

Watering the trees once a month in hot weather and no top dressing!

Caring for young apple trees by season:

spring

Caring for young apple trees in spring is:

Pruning after winter;
Top dressing and mulching of tree trunks;
Protection of apple trees from frost;
Protection from diseases and harmful insects.

Summer

Caring for young apple trees in summer is basically a fight against emerging diseases and caterpillars on apple trees, mites and aphids.

In hot weather, the garden is watered, with obvious shortages of food, the trees are fed. Weeds are pulled out in the aisles and tree trunks of young apple trees. It would be nice to loosen the earth after surface watering or rains, otherwise it will be difficult for apple trees from the soil crust.

autumn

Caring for young apple trees in the fall consists in a special whitewashing of the upper part of the tree, but below it is wrapped with roofing felt, spruce branches or geotextiles from biting hares and mice.

When wondering how to care for a young apple tree in the first year of planting, know that it is quite simple. The apple tree does not need to be fed in the fall, it has enough organic matter in the mulch, and minerals in the planting pit.

Apple trees older than 4 years feed like this: 25 grams of potassium and 35 grams of phosphorus per tree.

Here is a list of important reminder tips for growing apple trees:

Before the first use of each drug, you must try it on one of the branches of the apple tree. If after 48 hours the condition of the leaves has not deteriorated, then it can be consumed.
For greater effectiveness of "chemistry" in the war for the harvest, it is necessary to alternate the active substances in the preparations in the garden.
Always disassemble the manual and study the label and information about the drug on the Internet before using it.
Carry out spraying of the garden with the implementation of all safety measures.
Infusion and decoction of tobacco is toxic to humans!
For apple trees!

Caring for young apple trees brings excellent results.

Conclusion

One has only to adapt to the care of a young apple tree - and the gardener will receive a stable harvest for many years to come from mature trees.

And the data indicated in the article and obtained by experience will help beginners not make fatal mistakes and become full-fledged gardeners in their apple orchard with minimal loss of time and money. And their trees remain healthy apple trees.

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Whitewashing the trunk of an apple tree in spring

In February - early March, when the sun can damage the smooth bark of young apple trees, they need to be painted from the ground to the skeletal branches with a special acrylic-based garden paint. Such whitewash remains on the tree for a long time, is not washed off by rains and does not fall off in frost. After the snow melts, it is useless to whitewash the trees as protection from the sun, it will only be decorative. In trees older than 10–15 years, the bark is almost not susceptible to burns, and it is not necessary to whitewash the trunks.

Treatment of winter damage to the apple tree

In early - mid-March, after the snow melts, inspect the lower part of the apple tree trunk. If there are signs of rodent damage on the bark, urgent measures must be taken. Surface damage is enough to cover with garden pitch.

If the bark is eaten to the "ring" to the very wood, graft with a bridge, using the maximum number of cuttings.

In winter, the bark of the apple tree is also damaged by frost. This manifests itself in the form brown spots on the trunk, sometimes the damaged bark bursts and separates from the wood. In early spring, cut off the edges of the bark that have separated from the trunk and cover the sections with pitch. If the damage is not very extensive, then over time the wound will heal completely. In case of severe damage, when the exfoliated part occupies half or more of the trunk diameter, graft with a bridge.

Use cuttings from a damaged tree or from others. frost-resistant varieties, for example, Antonovka.

spring pruning apple tree

Pruning of an apple tree can be started in March, when the air temperature does not fall below -10 ° C, and continue until a green cone appears at the buds (in April).

Young trees form a crown, turning Special attention to strengthen the skeletal branches of the first and second order.

During pruning, shoots are removed that can obscure those formed in previous years branches from the sun and extending at an acute angle from the trunk. The distance between the skeletal branches of the first order should be at least 40–70 cm. The branches of the second order are cut out so that they remain looking to the sides and slightly up. In old trees, dry branches are cut first.

If the tree is taller than 4–4.5 m, then its height is reduced. Define optimal height tree, you can stand on the top platform of the stepladder (8 steps) and stretch your hand up. At this height, it is convenient to treat the tree with chemicals from pests and harvest.

When the crown is lowered, they begin to thin it out. The same principle applies here as in the formation of a young tree - all the main branches should have sufficient distance between themselves, and the upper branches should not obscure the lower ones.

Work with a hand pruner and garden saw. It is better not to use air pruners, as they are very difficult to properly cut branches.

Spring processing of apple trees from diseases and pests

In March, as soon as thawed areas begin to appear around the trees, it is time to install adhesive trapping belts on the trunks to protect against creeping wintering pests. This one is especially good protective measure helps against the flower beetle weevil.

The belt should fit snugly against the tree trunk to prevent insects from crawling through.

The second spraying is done after flowering, when the fruit ovaries become visible. At this moment, a new wave of insect activation and the maturation of spores of harmful fungi begins. It is undesirable to use highly toxic drugs, it is better to use bacterial ones: Lepidocid, Bitoxibacillin or Fitoverm and Akarin.

Spray trees in dry weather. For potent systemic drugs, such as Skor, Horus, Aktelik, 4-5 hours are enough to show their effect. As a rule, two spring treatments strong preparations are enough to ensure the health of the garden for the whole season.

Grafting an apple tree

In May, when the leaves have already blossomed and intensive sap flow has begun, you can graft new varieties into the crown of your apple trees.

Vaccinations can be done until the end of May, stocked with cuttings from the winter. The success of such operations at this time reaches more than 90%.

Winter grafting of an apple tree.

Apple trees should not be fed by simply spreading fertilizer over the surface. They will either be used by grass or washed away by meltwater. It is also not necessary to lay out manure on top of the snow cover. Such an operation will only reduce the rate of snow melting.

In April, it is better to apply fertilizers to the soil under the sod layer to a depth of 20–25 cm, piercing the ground around the perimeter of the crown with a crowbar or digging holes. About a handful of complex granular fertilizer is poured into each recess and covered with earth on top. Such top dressing is enough for 2-3 years. You can add 500 g of urea or 5 buckets of humus to the trunk circle. Additional feeding of the fruit tree is necessary in case of severely depleted soil, for example, when planting a garden on sandy soils or drained marshes. Usually, a fruit tree has enough fertilizer added to landing pit.

If you observe inhibition of crown development, at the beginning of flowering, dissolve 300 g of potassium sulfate, 1 kg of superphosphate, 10 liters of mullein in a barrel of water, insist for a week and water the trees at the rate of 40–50 liters per tree.

After fruiting begins (at the end of May), the tree is fed, excluding nitrogen fertilizers and increasing the potassium and phosphorus components. These two components stimulate the formation flower buds, and consequently increase the productivity of the tree.

A complete calendar of apple tree care.

After winters with little snow, by the time the leaves on the trees fully bloom, the moisture in the soil may no longer be enough. If the spring is rather dry, warm, there is no rain, then young trees and seedlings planted in spring or autumn should be watered at least once every 4–5 days. This also applies to young, up to 5–6 years old trees.

After watering, it is desirable to loosen the soil shallowly - this prevents the formation of a crust on the soil.

To preserve soil moisture, you can mulch the trunk circle with straw or peat, but do not sawdust, this material increases the acidity of the soil. Do not lay mulch around trees in a thick layer, leaning against the trunk of the tree. There may start harmful insects and mice, a thick layer of mulch remains damp for a long time, and the bark can begin to undermine, and this will lead to the infection of the tree with fungal diseases.

How to protect apple trees from frost

If frost is possible, spray the crowns of apple trees from a hose with a sprayer the night before so that droplets of water cover all the leaves abundantly. If you can afford it, then it is best to continue sprinkling until dawn. Water drops, freezing, will give their heat to the leaves. This method only works in calm weather. In the presence of wind, it is categorically impossible to do sprinkling of the crown of an apple tree, in this case it gives the opposite effect. If the kidneys have not yet opened, then lowering the temperature practically does not cause any tangible harm.

The way to protect a flowering apple orchard is to smoke. Fold heaps of sawdust, fallen leaves, grass, peat around a stake driven into the ground. Sprinkle a pile of damp earth on top. In the evening, before frost, take out the stake, and set fire to the pile. The hole from the stake will serve as a chimney. A pile with a diameter of 1.5 meters and a height of 50 cm is able to protect a garden area of one hundred square meters for one night.

How to transplant an apple tree

replant trees better in spring before the leaves bloom, then the root system is better restored. Before digging, you need to shed the earth abundantly on an area equal to the projection of the crown.

A tree under the age of 3 years is quite easy to dig and transplant, but it will lose part of the root system. However, with a quick transplant to another place, abundant watering and fairly strong pruning, it will survive and recover over time.

How to plant an apple seedling.

Older trees (4-6 years old) are more difficult to transplant, because you need to save as many roots as possible. Make a ditch along the perimeter of the crown, at the same time cutting off the roots that come across and gradually deepening by 1.5–2 bayonets of a shovel. Next, carefully dig the resulting lump in the direction of the tap root, which then needs to be cut. Move the tree to a new place along with a clod of earth. Water the tree thoroughly after transplanting. To bring the crown into line with the damaged root system, carry out a heavy pruning, leaving the central conductor, a few skeletal branches and a minimum number of branches of the second order and last year's growth.

How to choose and buy a good apple tree seedling

It is better to buy seedlings with an open root system when the ground is ready for digging. They are not recommended to be stored for a long time without soil. Wrap the roots of the apple tree with a damp cloth, put in a bag and store in a dark, cool place, such as a basement, but no more than 3-4 days. You can plant an apple tree in the garden as soon as you can stick a shovel into the ground. At this time, the earth has already thawed, and its moisture makes it possible for the apple tree seedling to get as much water as it needs.

As soon as the positive temperature is set on the street, gardeners immediately get to work. It's okay that snowdrifts prevent getting to the trees, because time does not wait. Before the apple trees wake up, there is so much to do! Spring is the most beautiful time years, but hard workers have no time to look around, it is during this period that they need to prune their pets, loosen the soil, fertilize, protect from pests. After all, the future harvest depends on the work done.

Pruning an old apple tree

Many gardeners believe that trees that are over 15 years old should be replaced with young early-growing varieties. But what to do if on an old, but such a dear and tasty apple tree? In this case, it is worth recommending a rejuvenating pruning. An apple tree is usually pruned in spring to 3-4-year-old wood, but if it has not had growth for two years, then semi-skeletal and skeletal branches should be shortened and part of the fruit formations should be removed. Very old trees should be trimmed to 7-9 year old wood.

Old apple trees cannot be shortened by a fruit or ring; you should focus on the zone of dormant buds located at the bottom of the shoot. There will be next year recovery processes, the tree will rejuvenate. Too many branches may form, thickening the crown, they should be thinned out. Already in the second year after pruning, fruits will appear on the apple tree, and in the third year it will delight with tasty and juicy fruits.

Pruning a young apple tree

Even the smallest trees need crown formation. Caring for apple trees in young spring involves preventive pruning, which will help regulate not only growth, but also fruiting, because fruit quality often deteriorates due to overload. Annual seedlings usually do not have branches, so they are pruned at the level of one meter from the ground. If there are side shoots, then at a height of half a meter from the ground they must be removed. It is necessary to immediately remove the branches that form an acute angle with the trunk, because in the future they may break off under the weight of apples.

Biennial seedlings are pruned in the same way as annuals. The strongest-looking side shoots are left, forming a wide angle with the trunk, which in the future will become the skeleton of a tree, and all the rest are removed. The length of the lower branches should be about 30 cm, and those above - even less. The guide should rise above the rest of the shoots by about 20 cm. In the first years of life, the apple tree needs formative pruning, because only a tree with a well-groomed, well-lit, compact crown can bring a good harvest. Up to 5 years, it is better not to experiment with shortening branches. Branches are cut to a minimum, otherwise the apple tree may be delayed in development.

Fruit tree nutrition

There is nothing even to count on a good harvest if there is no knowledge of how to care for an apple tree in spring. Professional gardeners annually apply fertilizers that allow you to regulate growth processes, develop immunity against pests and form a rich harvest. As soon as the snow melts and the earth thaws a little, you need to dig up the soil and bring a little ammonium nitrate. It is best to feed with a solution of 30 g / 10 liters of water. Of course, you can pour saltpeter balls directly onto the snow or ice crust, but there is a high probability that the fertilizer will wash out and the tree will get only crumbs.

Caring for apple trees in the spring provides for the introduction of nitrogen fertilizing at the beginning of the growing season. It is not necessary to buy special organic fertilizers, you can use ordinary bird droppings, manure or peat. These products have a good effect on the growth and fruiting of apple trees, but it is better to dilute them with water in order to protect the plant from diseases such as black cancer and root burn.

In May, during the flowering period of trees, urea or some other organic fertilizer should be applied. The solution is prepared at the rate of 25 g / 10 l of water, infused for about 5 days. Annual seedlings are especially in need of top dressing. Caring for apple trees in young spring involves applying fertilizer three times a day with an interval of half a month. This will help the tree grow and form a beautiful crown. Do not forget about complex top dressing, they contain all the components necessary for the full development of apple trees.

How to plant a seedling?

Fruit trees can be planted in both autumn and spring. If a warm season is preferable, then it should be remembered that it is better to plant a seedling before bud break. So he will take root faster, survive the transplant less painfully and grow faster. So that the apple tree does not get sick, it must be constantly watered, the lack of moisture leads to various diseases and slow plant growth.

Initially, you should choose and prepare a place for a new tenant of the garden. Tall trees are placed no closer than 3 m from the boundary, and medium-sized trees - 2 m. Groundwater should lie at a depth of 1.5 m, or lower. If the water passes higher, then the tree can be periodically flooded. To prevent this from happening, it should be placed on a hill (about 1 m). It is best to plant seedlings in the place where they did not grow before. fruit crops. After uprooting the garden, the territory can be sown for two years meadow grasses they will change the soil.

Caring for apple tree seedlings in the spring immediately implies that immediately after transplantation, pruning should be done, because it is broken, and it is not able to provide nutrition for the entire ground part of the plant. If the soil is good, then the depth and diameter of the planting pit can vary between 50-60 cm. On waste soils, a depth of 70 cm is allowed, the diameter is a meter. Before planting, seedlings should be soaked for a day in a bucket of water to restore water balance. Broken roots should be cut with pruners or a sharp knife.

How to transplant a tree?

Before deciding to transplant an apple tree to a new place, you need to think carefully about whether it is worth doing at all. Planting a plant is a risk of injury, stress, which can be detrimental to weak seedlings. It is better not to touch sick trees at all, it is likely that they will die. They more or less tolerate transplanting apple trees older than 15 years. So, the decision has been made, let's get to work.

Before going to a new place, a trench should be prepared, which should be twice as deep and wider than the plant lump. The earth needs to be dug up, all weeds removed, the bottom of the pit covered with fertilizers and limestone. To support the tree, prepare three strong pegs. Apple trees should be transplanted before bud break, in early spring. You need to dig a tree carefully, capturing a large lump along with the root system. The trunk can be wrapped with a soft cloth, and the roots can be packed in a net.

It is not recommended to keep the dug up tree for a long time, it should be planted as soon as possible. Otherwise, it can get sick, take root for a long time. An earthen ball should be placed in a pit so that the root collar remains above the soil. The roots are sprinkled with loose soil, which is well compacted. After a while, you will have to add earth, because the tree will settle. A balance must be maintained between the root system and the ground part, therefore, after transplantation, it is recommended to trim the crown.

Pest protection

Even high-quality cutting and good fertilizer do not guarantee bountiful harvest, because there are still pests of the apple tree. In spring, tree processing is carried out in several stages. When the buds open, nothing can be done, because the process of pollination and the formation of ovaries may be disrupted. You should also pay attention to the wintering conditions, the type of insects that most often infect the plant.

The first processing of apple trees in the spring falls on March, when the buds have not yet blossomed and sap flow has not begun. During this period, the crown should be trimmed and the trunk should be cleaned of lichens and dead bark. It is also necessary to spray with chemicals, treat the near-stem soil and whitewash the trunk with a limestone solution to completely destroy the insects that wintered on the tree.

In April, when buds have already formed, but flowering has not yet begun, it is recommended to protect the plant from the apple flower beetle with trapping belts and spray it with biological preparations. During the formation of buds, you can remove pests manually, as well as remove weeds near the tree. Spraying is not recommended as it will harm pollinating insects. Caring for apple trees in spring also requires processing after flowering. In the second half of May, the tree should be sprayed with agents against leafworms, codling moths and other insects that spoil fruits and foliage.

How to spray apple trees in spring?

All preparations for the treatment of fruit trees are united by a common name - insecticides. They are contact and systemic. The former act on the insect by direct contact. They are unstable, washed off by rain, even in dry weather they lose their effectiveness after 7 days. Contact insecticides are used in early spring when it is necessary to kill insects left after wintering. The second type of preparations is used in April, when the trees are re-treated. Systemic insecticides work for about half a month, they penetrate the plant, causing the pests to die from poisoning. The drugs do not affect the quality of the fruit, because they quickly decompose.

How to spray apple trees in spring? The most common means is benzophosphate, which affects leaf-eating pests. Its advantages include minimal impact on pollinating insects and good protection, which lasts about a month. "Trichlorol-5" can be used from early spring until flowering. "Oleokuprit" kills the sucker, aphids, mites, scale insects. You can also use the funds "Karbofos" and "Preparation No. 30".

What are the benefits of dwarf trees?

How to care for an apple tree in spring depends largely on the type of plant. AT recent times many gardeners praise dwarf varieties, they say, with them there is less trouble, and they bring more crops. Is it really? It would be fairer to talk not about their advantages, but about the features of caring for these miniature garden inhabitants. Compared with tall varieties, dwarf apple trees come into fruiting much earlier. Care in terms of pruning is much easier, because they are low and slightly branched. Their fruits are large, removed quite easily. Even a novice gardener can protect such apple trees from pests and shelter them for the winter. Problems can arise if the tree grows on waterlogged soil. Since it has a shallow root system, the plant may fall over. Also, dwarf varieties often break at the grafting sites.

Pruning a dwarf apple tree

Miniature trees have their own peculiarity in crown formation. It can be pyramidal, semi-bush, with vertical or horizontal cordons. The pyramidal type is formed by leaving six buds and removing all the rest, while leaving a 10 cm bare spike at the top. Over time, when a lateral shoot from the upper bud begins to develop, it should be tied to the top. The rest of the crown is formed by skeletal branches, their length after pruning should not exceed 30 cm. The pyramid shape is created by tying the branches.

How to care for a semi-bush apple tree in spring? About 35 cm of stem are measured for a one-year-old, and the rest of the crown is formed as in ordinary apple trees - according to a sparse-tiered or whorled-tiered pattern. In addition, horizontal and vertical cordons can be created. Such crowns suggest the presence of only fruit branches on the trunk.

How to care for a columnar-type apple tree in spring?

Owners of small personal plots face a difficult choice - which fruit trees to plant, and which ones should be abandoned? The problem was solved by columnar apple trees, which take up little space, do not create shade and annually bring a lot of tasty, juicy apples. Such varieties are also attracted by early fruiting: already in the fifth year after planting, you can harvest a full-fledged crop. From one tree with human height in the second year you can take a kilogram of apples, and mature plant gives about 10 kg.

The popular Planting and caring for such trees are somewhat specific to the columnar ones. The top of them cannot be cut off, on the contrary, the apical bud must be protected, because this variety does not create side shoots. Columnar apple trees have a shallow root system, so weeds should not grow around them, drowning out the column stock.

It is recommended to ration the crop: in the first year, all buds should be cut off, and in subsequent years, two flowers should be left in each cluster. Columnar apple trees need protection from severe frosts, so it is better to plant them in places closed from the wind. For the winter, you can cover the root system with straw, spruce branches, fallen leaves.

Conclusion

Following all the recommendations will bring results very soon. Regardless of the variety, all apple trees need top dressing, watering, protection from pests, periodic pruning, and warming for the winter. Well-groomed trees have a healthy beautiful view and bear fruit well every year. There are no lean years, there are owners who do not look after their green pets.

Before you start cleaning, it is advisable to spread polyethylene under the tree so that infected residues do not fall on the soil. Bark that is affected by pests must be burned. After that, whitewash should be restored on the trunks and large branches of trees.

In the spring, sanitary and thinning pruning is carried out. This annual procedure significantly helps

When planting an apple tree, it is necessary to control the level of penetration of the root neck, which should be 5 - 10 cm (10 - 15 cm in the case of a freshly dug hole) above ground level. Carefully straightened roots of the seedling during the procedure are evenly covered with soil, periodically compacting it. For better contact of the roots with the ground, the seedling is watered abundantly after planting (3-4 buckets of water) and, if the root neck is exposed, the soil is sprinkled. Good survival is also ensured by planting apple trees in the mud - in pre-spilled planting pits with further addition of soil without compaction. After planting and watering, it is recommended to mulch the near-stem circles with earth or humus with a layer of about 5 cm, and carry out the next watering in a maximum of a week.

caring for young apple trees

Foliar top dressing is best done with solutions of liquid fertilizers "Sodium Humate" or "Effekton" - for 10 liters of water, 1 tablespoon of one or the other. Spray at the rate of 2 liters per 1 young apple tree.

Learn more secrets about growing plants

How to transplant an apple tree

In April, it is better to apply fertilizers to the soil under the sod layer to a depth of 20-25 cm, piercing the ground around the perimeter of the crown with a crowbar or digging holes. About a handful of complex granular fertilizer is poured into each recess and covered with earth on top. Such top dressing is enough for 2-3 years. You can add 500 g of urea or 5 buckets of humus to the trunk circle. Additional feeding of the fruit tree is necessary in case of severely depleted soil, for example, when planting a garden on sandy soils or drained marshes. Usually, a fruit tree has enough fertilizer added to the planting hole for a long time.

Young trees form a crown, paying special attention to strengthening the skeletal branches of the first and second order.

Most of the apple tree care needs to be scheduled for the spring. Trees need to be helped right away, without postponing protective measures until the onset of warm weather: cure trunks from winter damage, whiten boles, treat apple trees for diseases and pests, prune, install trapping belts, prepare for grafting.

When the earth warms up, it is dug up to a depth of 10-15 cm. If for the winter the soil around the trees was additionally mulched with compost or peat, then it is dug up along with the mulch.

regulate the yield of apple trees

In the first 2 - 3 years, care for young apple trees consists in removing weeds and regular watering. Many gardeners advise keeping apple trees near the trunks under black fallow, but in the middle of summer it will not be superfluous to plant green manure in the aisles to plant them in the soil - the leaf mass will decompose in the fall - it will decompose in the winter and will free it for the trees in the spring nutrients. The near-trunk circles of adult apple trees are usually planted (form natural or artificial lawns), and grass 10 - 15 cm high is regularly mowed and left as mulch. But since the grass quickly dries out the soil, apple trees in such gardens need more frequent watering. Young apple trees are watered over the summer about once a month, spending 3-4 buckets of water on each tree, but on sandy soils and especially in dry summers, the number of waterings is increased even up to 1-2 times a week. The volume of water consumed for an adult apple tree is approximately calculated by age - on average, a bucket of water for each year (for example, for a 6-year-old tree, the norm is 6 buckets). Adult fruiting apple trees need at least 4 abundant waterings: before bud break, 3 weeks after flowering, 3 to 4 weeks before harvest and after full harvest during leaf fall. Watering during harvest is highly undesirable, as it causes excessive pouring and cracking of the fruit and negatively affects their keeping quality during storage.

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In subsequent years, for apple trees that have not yet begun to bear fruit, in addition to the listed dressings, one more root dressing should be carried out in September. At this time, the plant really needs potassium and phosphorus, so for this top dressing you need to take 2 tablespoons of any phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, dilute in 10 liters of water and water at the rate of 2 - 3 buckets per 1 tree, depending on its age.

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It is better to transplant trees in the spring before the leaves bloom, then the root system is better restored. Before digging, you need to shed the earth abundantly in an area equal to the projection of the crown.

During pruning, shoots are removed that can obscure the branches formed in previous years from the sun and extend at an acute angle from the trunk. The distance between the skeletal branches of the first order should be at least 40-70 cm. The branches of the second order are cut out so that they remain looking to the sides and slightly up. In old trees, dry branches are cut first.

Whitewashing the trunk of an apple tree in spring

Organic fertilizers (rotted manure or bird droppings). It is also desirable to add microfertilizers or at least wood ash. Nutritious dressings are introduced into the grooves and sprinkled with soil. But do not forget to restore the mulch after digging and top dressing.

. The timing of spring pruning depends on climatic conditions. In southern areas where warm days start early, pruning can begin as early as late February or March. In central Russia and in the northern regions, it is advisable to wait until the beginning of April and only then take up the pruner.

The first five years after planting, young trees are tied with spruce branches, reeds, strips of parchment for protection from hares and mice for the winter, with the onset of frost, trunk circles are mulched with manure and, in areas with little snowy winters, spud with earth to a height of 15 - 20 cm.

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Root top dressing should be applied not under the very trunk (stem) of a young tree, but 60 centimeters away from it. Watering with a top dressing solution should be carried out evenly around the tree, maintaining this radius from the stem.

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After fruiting begins (at the end of May), the tree is fed, excluding nitrogen fertilizers and increasing the potassium and phosphorus components. These two components stimulate the formation of flower buds, and accordingly increase the yield of the tree.

Spray trees in dry weather. For potent systemic drugs, such as Skor, Horus, Aktelik, 4-5 hours are enough to show their effect. As a rule, two spring treatments with strong preparations are enough to ensure the health of the garden for the entire season.

If the tree is higher than 4-4.5 m, then its height is reduced. You can determine the optimal height of the tree by standing on the top platform of the ladder (8 steps) and stretching your hand up. At this height, it is convenient to treat the tree with chemicals from pests and harvest.

In February - early March, when the sun can damage the smooth bark of young apple trees, they need to be painted from the ground to the skeletal branches with a special acrylic-based garden paint. Such whitewash remains on the tree for a long time, is not washed off by rains and does not fall off in frost. After the snow melts, it is useless to whitewash the trees as protection from the sun, it will only be decorative. In trees older than 10-15 years, the bark is almost not susceptible to burns, and it is not necessary to whitewash the trunks.

The timing of the first watering depends on weather conditions coming spring. If the days are dry and no rain is expected, then the garden is watered even before the buds open on the apple trees. If there is no lack of moisture, then you can start watering about two weeks after the mass flowering of apple trees. It is necessary to moisten the soil thoroughly in order to wet the soil to a depth of 60 cm.

Pruning apple trees, like other fruit trees, requires certain knowledge and skills. If you feel that there is a need to learn this important gardening business, then I recommend you a very useful

In the second year after planting in early spring, young trees begin to form crowns. To do this, they cut off the branches that appear in the stem zone and the vertical branches that grow too strongly, remove part of last year's growth (about a third shorten shoots longer than 60 cm), thus limiting the growth of apple trees in height and stimulating the growth of branches to the sides. In the future, with annual pruning, part of last year's and older branches should be removed in order to stimulate active branching and the formation of flower buds on young shoots, cut off branches that grow vertically, inside the crown and down, diseased and damaged. A properly formed crown of an adult tree should have several tiers with 3-4 shoots evenly distributed in space, growing in a close to horizontal position, and the branches in the lower tiers should be slightly longer than those growing above. The wounds formed in the places of cuts must necessarily be covered with garden pitch or painted over with iron minium. Note that when pruning is carried out annually and correctly, apple trees begin to give birth earlier, regularly bear fruit, and their frost resistance and life expectancy increase. However, ornamental apple trees, as a rule, do not need strong pruning: their pruning involves only sanitary thinning - the removal of inward-growing and intersecting, damaged and dry branches.

Of all fruit trees, only the apple tree has perhaps the longest history, dating back to the time of Adam and Eve. Today, not a single garden can do without this culture. Apples, containing a unique complex of microelements (iron, manganese, copper, etc.), sugars, vitamins, organic acids, etc., are considered one of the most useful fruits. And the presence of many varieties of apple trees makes it possible not only to use them for processing - for making jam, compotes, juices, drying, etc., but also to eat them fresh almost all year round. With proper planting and care, among other fruit trees, it is the apple tree that is most productive, decorative and adaptable to any climatic conditions. Moreover, the combination of these qualities makes it possible for summer residents in some cases to limit themselves to specimens of this stable crop exclusively on the site and to obtain fruits ( productive varieties), and for original decoration garden (decorative varieties).

Next, I want to say a little about mixed plantings. While the apple trees in the garden are young (up to 5 years old), and their crowns practically do not obscure the aisles (especially in spring), the free area between the trees can be used to grow various vegetable crops, as well as green manure plants.

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How to plant an apple seedling.

A complete apple tree care calendar.

How to help a sick apple tree.

Cleaning and whitewashing the trunks of fruit trees.

Caring for apple trees in spring and pest control are inseparable jobs. If the garden suffered a lot from scab last year, then be sure to treat the trees with a fungicide solution. For this, a 7% solution of urea or a 10% solution of ammonium nitrate is suitable. But with spraying it is necessary to have time before bud break.

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So that fruiting does not cause the depletion of apple trees, all flowers should be cut off for the first two years, and in subsequent years, the load should be regulated, since overloaded, too abundantly fruiting trees the next year, as a rule, "rest" and give a meager harvest. On young trees, it is recommended to thin out the ovaries, leaving 1-2 fruits in each bunch, otherwise the apples may grow underdeveloped or with poor taste. In adults, abundantly fruiting apple trees, under the weight of large fruits, branches can break off, so they are provided with props or stretch marks in advance, but at the same time thick rubber is used as a gasket so that the ropes (props) do not form wounds on the bark of the branches.

When choosing an apple tree variety, several points should be taken into account, including the purpose of planting, the timing of fruiting (terms of consumption), the size of the plot, etc. To decorate the garden, it is better to choose highly decorative varieties (bush and tree-like forms), which, during flowering, will not yield even to the well-known sakura in beauty. The fruits of ornamental apple trees are small and are rarely used for processing, but with their original colors they can decorate the garden until the very frost. Most interesting varieties: "Nora" with scarlet fruits, Nedzvetsky's apple tree (low, dwarf), "Royalty" and "Makamik" - with purple, "Golden Hornet" and "Butterball" - with rich yellow, "Lemoinei" - with burgundy, etc.

Best vegetable crops for this are early cabbage, early radish, beans, beans, peas, early undersized tomatoes, physalis. In this case, we "kill" two birds with one stone - we grow vegetables, plus - we create excellent conditions for development for young apple trees, since, caring for vegetables, we systematically water them, loosen the soil, feed the vegetables and carry out various treatments. And all this favorably affects the growth of apple trees.

Earlier I wrote about how to properly plant an apple tree in a garden plot. And so we planted seedlings, and what's next?

Older trees (4-6 years old) are more difficult to transplant, because you need to save as many roots as possible. Make a ditch along the perimeter of the crown, at the same time cutting off the roots that come across and gradually deepening by 1.5-2 bayonets of a shovel. Next, carefully dig the resulting lump in the direction of the tap root, which then needs to be cut. Move the tree to a new place along with a clod of earth. Water the tree thoroughly after transplanting. To bring the crown into line with the damaged root system, carry out a heavy pruning, leaving the central conductor, a few skeletal branches and a minimum number of branches of the second order and last year's growth.

How to loosen the soil and water the apple tree

Work with a hand pruner and garden saw. It is best not to use an air pruner, as it is very difficult for them to cut the branches correctly.

Treatment of winter damage to the apple tree

Be sure to take measures against insects. Most of them wake up and begin an active life during the opening of growth buds. Therefore, it is recommended to treat the garden with insecticides (Fitoverm, Kemifos, Fufanon or other suitable means). In the fight against pests and diseases, you should not rely only on folk remedies. Sometimes the help of chemicals is inevitable, it is not without reason that this is considered one of the

. I once gave such a disc to my friends, after which I received many words of gratitude from them. Still, learning from books or going to specialized courses is much more difficult than learning from professionally prepared video material that you can always watch again. For normal growth and fruiting of the apple tree, it is desirable to feed regularly. In early spring, young apple trees are root fed with a solution of urea (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water), in May - June - foliar liquid fertilizer "Sodium Humate" or "Ideal" (a tablespoon per bucket of water), and in September - root phosphorus-potassium top dressing (2 tablespoons of superphosphate per bucket of water).If planting an apple tree is carried out to obtain crops, it is recommended to purchase high-yielding varieties in nurseries, preferably zoned, winter-hardy and disease-resistant. Considering that the apple tree is a cross-pollinated crop, it is better to plant at least two simultaneously flowering specimens (varieties), and to ensure year-round harvest on the table, at least 2 trees of summer, 2 - 3 autumn and 2 - 5 winter varieties. The fruits of summer apple trees (varieties "White pouring", "Medunitsa", "Mantet", "Ottawa", "Aroma de Vare", "Papirovka", etc.) ripen early, until the end of August, and are stored for a maximum of a week, so they are processed or consumed as soon as possible. Autumn ripening apples (apple varieties Cinnamon Striped, Borovinka, Melba, Korean, Glory to the Winners, Akane, Kids Orange Red, Orlovskoye Striped, etc.) are harvested from the beginning September and stored for 2 - 3 weeks, which makes it possible to stretch the terms of their fresh consumption. Longest, until spring next year, without loss of taste, only fruits are stored winter apple trees(varieties "Moscow Winter", "Antonovka", "Bogatyr", "Aport", "Lobo", "Welsey", "Golden Delicious", "Pink Lady", "Elise", etc.), which, as a rule, and decorate the tables of summer residents until new harvests.

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Of course, tall crops such as corn, sunflower cannot be sown around young apple trees, as they deplete, shade and dry out the soil.

In this article, I will talk about

It happens that the apple tree dies and the tree has to be uprooted. If you want to keep this variety, cut off a healthy branch and plant it on another apple tree. Is it possible to plant a new apple tree in this place? Yes, you certainly may. Causative agents of apple diseases, including "black cancer", are not transmitted through the soil. To plant a new apple tree, level the edges of the hole after uprooting the stump. Mix the earth that was taken out of the pit with peat, manure and sand (if there is clay soil in the area). Mix well and pour back into the hole so that a small mound is formed above it, 25-30 cm high. Drive a stake into the center of the mound, to which you then tie the planted seedling. soil may not be enough. If the spring is rather dry, warm, there is no rain, then young trees and seedlings planted in spring or autumn should be watered at least once every 4-5 days. This also applies to young trees, up to 5-6 years old. In May, when the leaves have already blossomed and intensive sap flow has begun, you can graft new varieties into the crown of your apple trees.

All about the forming pruning of an apple tree.

In early - mid-March, after the snow melts, inspect the lower part of the apple tree trunk. If there are signs of rodent damage on the bark, urgent measures must be taken. It is enough to cover surface damage with garden pitch.

gardening rules

But back to the issue of the spring formation of tree crowns. It is also worth carefully examining the direction of growth of skeletal branches. The past season and winter with its abundance of snow and winds can affect the slope of the branches. It happens that the direction of growth of some of them needs to be changed. It is best to do this work in the spring. But you need to bend and fix the branches very carefully. Here is this one

An approximate feeding scheme for fruit-bearing trees includes 4-time fertilization per season. For the first time at the end of April, 500 g of urea is scattered and sealed under each tree. The second time, by the beginning of flowering, after the next watering, superphosphate (100 g), potassium sulfate (80 g) and urea (50 g) are added in liquid form, infused for a week in 20 liters of water. The third time - after flowering, fertilizing is carried out with a solution of nitrophoska (100 g) and dry "Sodium Humate" (2 g), well dissolved in 20 liters of water. The last top dressing is carried out after harvesting or shifted for autumn plowing: a bucket of humus and 300 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate are added under each tree. Please note: dry fertilizers are embedded to the depth of the bayonet along the circumference of the trunk circle in specially prepared grooves. All root dressings with a high nitrogen content (urea, bird droppings, mullein, etc.) stimulate increased growth of branches, but they are recommended to be completed no later than mid-July, otherwise the branches will not have time to mature before frost. The rapid dissolution of nitrogen and the most complete use of it by plants provides abundant 2-time watering (before and after top dressing) with the calculated water rate. So, for example, a 5-year-old apple tree should be watered with five buckets of water, then add 5 buckets liquid fertilizer, then again irrigate with the same amount of clean water.

On large plots, where it is possible to lay a large or medium garden, you can plant medium and tall apple trees grafted onto a seed (high-growing) stock. They live and bear fruit for about 60 years, reaching a height of 7–8 meters without pruning, so they are planted according to the 5x5 m scheme. Compared to vigorous ones, such apple trees have a slightly lower yield and grow lower (semi-dwarf - up to 4 - 5 m, dwarf - up to 2 - 2.5 m), but their denser planting makes it possible to compensate for the level of yield per hundred square meters. Since, in terms of life expectancy, such apple trees are still inferior to vigorous ones - 30 - 40 years for semi-dwarf ones and 15 - 20 years for dwarf ones - a garden of them requires earlier rejuvenation. Planting of recently popular columnar apple trees (spur varieties), which, due to compacted planting (0.5x2 or 1x1 m), allows for small areas have full crops, is strongly not recommended for beginner summer residents, as these apple trees require especially careful care and attention from the gardener.

From green manure plants, you can plant buckwheat, lupine, phacelium, mustard. I especially recommend sowing green manure crops in those gardens that are located on the slopes. Green manure protects the soil from erosion: the soil freezes less in winter, as more snow collects in the aisles. If you sow green manure on a flat area, then they need to be mowed during flowering, then crushed and embedded in the soil, which will improve its structure. Siderates on the slopes do not need to be mowed and left before winter as they are.

caring for young apple trees

How to plant an apple tree in a wetland.

After watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil shallowly - this prevents the formation of a crust on the soil.

Vaccinations can be done until the end of May, stocked with cuttings from the winter. The success of such operations at this time reaches more than 90%.

Caring for young apple trees. Soil content.

All about sanitary pruning of an apple tree.

If the bark is eaten to the "ring" to the very wood, graft with a bridge, using the maximum number of cuttings.

video tutorial

Root top dressing can be alternated with foliar, combining them with preventive treatments against diseases and pests. Fruit trees benefit from spraying with a solution mineral fertilizer urea (2 tablespoons per bucket of water) and wood ash (a glass per 10 liters of water), which are carried out twice - before and after flowering with a break of 3 weeks. Solutions with microelements (manganese, zinc, copper, etc.) can be used with the beginning of fruit filling, but a month before harvesting, all foliar feeding should be stopped. Before buying seedlings, the summer resident must determine the level of occurrence ground water on the site, since all varieties (forms) of apple trees, getting into them with roots, develop poorly, give low yields, lose winter hardiness and may eventually die. The root system of vigorous apple trees can go as deep as 2.5 m and it is advisable to plant them where groundwater is below 3 meters deep. Seedlings on a semi-dwarf rootstock can be planted in areas with a level above 2.5 meters, and in cases of nearby (above 1.5 m) groundwater, it is strongly recommended to plant only columnar apple trees and varieties on a dwarf rootstock. You can determine the type of rootstock in a seedling with ACS on your own: the roots of a vigorous one look like an inverted crown, distributed evenly from the trunk, and a dwarf one usually has a pronounced central root growing to the side and several smaller thin roots. Please note: Healthy 1 - 2 year old seedlings, upon purchase, should have elastic branches and roots, as well as a distinct and bark-covered grafting site; A two-year-old seedling does not differ much from an annual one, but it will begin to bear fruit after planting earlier. In a plot with young apple trees, the soil should be moderately moist. In case of falling out a large number rains, loosening is necessary to provide air to the root system of the tree. It is also advisable to take a crowbar and make punctures around the apple tree, to a depth of 30 - 40 centimeters. Punctures are made at the level of the projection of the ends of the side branches. In the absence of lateral branches in a young tree, punctures are made at a distance of 0.6 meters from the stem.

in the garden.

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Apple tree: planting and care.

How to choose and buy good seedling apple trees

Apple varieties

To maintain soil moisture, you can mulch the trunk circle with straw or peat, but not sawdust, this material increases the acidity of the soil. Do not lay mulch around trees in a thick layer, leaning against the trunk of the tree. Harmful insects and mice can start up there, a thick layer of mulch remains wet for a long time, and the bark can begin to warm up, and this will lead to infection of the tree with fungal diseases.

Winter grafting of an apple tree.

Planting an apple tree

Spring treatments of apple trees from diseases and pests

In winter, the bark of the apple tree is also damaged by frost. This manifests itself in the form of brown spots on the trunk, sometimes the damaged bark bursts and separates from the wood. In early spring, cut off the edges of the bark that have separated from the trunk and cover the sections with pitch. If the damage is not very extensive, then over time the wound will heal completely. In case of severe damage, when the exfoliated part occupies half or more of the trunk diameter, graft with a bridge. Use cuttings from a damaged tree or taken from other frost-resistant varieties, such as Antonovka.

Against weevils, you can use an easy and harmless technique. To do this, before budding, the tree is shaken 2-3 times. All fallen insects are collected and burned. To prevent weevils and other pests from crawling up the tree, it is advisable to use glue traps. To do this, the base of the trunk and large branches are surrounded by adhesive strips. Such traps are most effective just in the spring, when the air has not had time to warm up above + 6 ° C and many insects have not yet begun to fly.

can help you do everything exactly and right.

Apple care should include preventive measures to control pests (green aphids, leafworms, etc.) and diseases (scab, etc.). The simplest are: annual autumn whitewashing of trunks with lime milk, autumn digging of near-stem circles (preferably with pitchforks), collection and destruction of fallen leaves, removal of root shoots on which aphid eggs hibernate, etc.

The timing of planting apple trees depends on the characteristics of the variety (winter hardiness) and the climatic conditions of the area. In autumn, starting from the last decade of September and ending 3 weeks before frost (mid-October), it is recommended to plant them in the south and in those areas middle lane, where a fairly high level of snow cover is maintained in winter. In northern regions with frosty winters with little snow, it is better to transfer the planting of apple trees, especially winter varieties on dwarf rootstocks and columnar forms, to spring (the last decade of April). Spring planting is also highly recommended in cases of planting seedlings on ridges, which is used in areas with a close occurrence (1 m) of groundwater.

It is very good to loosen the soil under apple trees with a pitchfork, piercing it to the full depth of the horns. At the same time, the forks must not be turned to the sides, otherwise thin roots can be torn.

apple tree care

Care measures are, in principle, standard. This is watering, fertilizing, preventive treatments against diseases and pests.

It is better to buy seedlings with an open root system when the ground is ready for digging. They are not recommended to be stored for a long time without soil. Wrap the roots of the apple tree with a damp cloth, put it in a bag and store it in a dark, cool place, such as a basement, but no more than 3-4 days. You can plant an apple tree in the garden as soon as you can stick a shovel into the ground. At this time, the earth has already thawed, and its moisture makes it possible for the apple tree seedling to get as much water as it needs.

How to water an apple tree.

Ways to graft an apple tree.

In March, as soon as thawed areas begin to appear around the trees, it is time to install adhesive trapping belts on the boles to protect against creeping wintering pests. This protective measure is especially good against the flower beetle weevil.

Diseases caused by sunburn and frostbites.

After the leaves bloom on the apple trees, aphids may already appear. At the same time, young leaves curl and stop growing. But do not immediately take on the strong chemicals. At first, it is enough to use a strong solution laundry soap or infusion of tobacco. Just wash the infected foliage thoroughly with one of these products.

In the second half of March, the snow that still lies on the site in temperate latitudes must be evenly distributed over the entire area, and the trees themselves should be carefully examined. All affected and damaged areas should be carefully cut and cleaned to wood. After that, the wound surface should be treated with a disinfectant. For this, a 3% solution is suitable. iron sulphate or 2% solution of copper sulfate.

As practice shows, an apple tree, even in the inept hands of a novice summer resident, can bear fruit, but the length of time from planting to the first harvest, the quality of the fruits and their quantity in the future directly depends on properly organized care. That is why the task of every conscious gardener is to provide due attention to the apple tree, not only after planting, but throughout the life of the tree.

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Caring for apple trees in spring | rich-piggy bank

Pits for apple trees (100x100x70 cm) should preferably be prepared a month before planting, so that the fertilizers applied to them partially decompose and the soil settles tightly. The excavated earth is thoroughly mixed - the fertile top layer with the lower infertile one - and fertilizers are added to the third part: humus (3 buckets), wood ash (10 tablespoons), superphosphate (1 glass) and potassium sulfate (4 tablespoons). The bottom of the pit is loosened to the depth of the bayonet and the fertilized soil mixture is poured out, after which the upper half of the pit is filled with fertile soil without fertilizers. The pit prepared in this way is watered and the soil is filled up after its partial subsidence. Please note: if a planting hole is dug immediately before planting (American gardeners plant apple trees in this way), then fertilizers are not applied to it, but only new fertile soil is added in layers, alternating them with layers of earth dug out of the hole (the thickness of the layers is approximately 15 cm) .

In hot weather, you can water the apple trees by sprinkling, in the evening, to rinse the tree well. Such a shower favors the development of the crown and cleans the branches and leaves from pests. On a sunny hot day, watering apple trees is impossible, as this can cause burns. The rate of watering at one time for apple trees of one or two years of age is 20 - 30 liters per 1 tree. The frequency of watering depends on the weather. If it's hot, then watering is carried out 1 - 2 times a week.

Caring for apple trees in spring: basic work

crown formation

I'll start with top dressing: An apple seedling with a closed root system can be stored before planting in the garden for several weeks and even months. It is enough just to regularly water the container with the seedling. How to protect an apple tree from frost

Fertilization under the apple tree The belt should fit snugly against the tree trunk to prevent insects from crawling through. Spring pruning of an apple tree

The reproduction of pathogenic microorganisms and insect pests should also be monitored later - throughout the summer. Only in this case, the work will not be in vain, and caring for apple trees in the spring and pest control will bring tangible results and garden plantings will be healthy and strong. From above, do not forget to cover the treated places with garden pitch. You can cook it yourself. To do this, take wood resin melted to a liquid state, turpentine and animal fat in a ratio of 50:20:13. Hello friends! Experienced gardeners know that you need to roll up your sleeves and start caring for apple trees in the spring. It is at this time of the year that timely and active work in the garden is required. Caring for fruit trees will help them “wake up” faster and enter the growing season.

Treatment of damaged areas

For planting on ridges, a plot of 3x3.5 m is prepared for each seedling: they dig it to a depth of 25 - 30 cm, scatter it on the surface of the fertilizer - for each square meter a bucket of humus (compost) and 2 tablespoons of potassium sulfate and superphosphate - and level their rake. Fertilized soil is sprinkled on top with a layer (60 - 70 cm) of fertile soil without fertilizers, into which seedlings are planted after 2 - 3 weeks. With this method of planting apple trees to drain groundwater, it is recommended to additionally dig grooves in the row-spacing (along the crown perimeter).

You can read about the fight against diseases of apple trees here. Also read about the fight against the apple flower beetle. And this article is about protection against codling moth on fruit trees.

Bark cleaning

Feed the first year nitrogen fertilizers- one root in early spring, two foliar - in May and two foliar - in June. Nitrogen supplements are needed in order for the tree to get stronger faster and go into active growth. So:

How and where to buy a good apple seedling.

Digging and fertilizing the soil

Watering

How to install a hunting belt.

Treatment with chemicals

Pruning of an apple tree can begin in March, when the air temperature does not fall below -10 ° C, and continue until a green cone appears at the buds (in April).

Good luck in your work! Hope It is also necessary to remove the old dead bark on the trunks. This should be done carefully so as not to damage living tissue. It is more convenient to use brushes, scrapers or coarse work gloves for this purpose. Do not forget that with the first sunbeams not only trees wake up, but also their many natural enemies - aphids, sucker, codling moths, golden tails, hawthorn, scab. To stop these hordes and prevent insects and pathogenic fungi from destroying your favorite crops, a number of measures are required. That is why caring for apple trees in the spring includes pest control. But first things first…

It should be noted that all apple trees for the first 2 years should be tied to a peg (2-2.5 cm in diameter), which will support the seedling and partially shade it from the south side. It is better to make a peg from linden or hazel, so that the part in the ground will rot over time. For dwarf forms, which should be grown tied up until the end of the tree’s life, it is advisable to take an oak stake, about 1.8 m high and 5 cm in diameter. Before planting an apple tree, it is hammered into the center of the pit (planting bed) so that 60 - 80 cm, and a seedling is planted nearby with north side, keeping a distance of 15 cm between the trunk and the stake. After the procedure, the “eight” seedling is tied to the stake with soft twine, the tension of which is periodically checked and loosened as the apple tree trunk thickens.

This is perhaps all that concerns

For root dressing, dilute 2 tablespoons of urea in 10 liters of water. The norm of the solution for one young tree- 15 liters (3 buckets for 2 trees). Columnar apple trees planting and care