Rhododendron grandiflorum reviews. Rhododendrons, frost-resistant varieties: description, features, types, cultivation and reviews. Planting, watering and care

Many do not dare to grow rhododendrons because of the low frost resistance of plants. However, there are many varieties that are quite winter-hardy in the climatic conditions of central Russia. With proper planting and adherence to certain agricultural practices, these rhododendrons winter well, grow and bloom in our suburbs.

I'll just tell you about mine personal experience and those varieties that grow in our garden. You just need to understand that different regions differ not only in temperature, but also in climate humidity, which is very important for growing rhododendrons.

Varieties

The first rhododendrons appeared in our country 10 years ago, and during this time not one of them died, but on the contrary they delight with their flowering. Among them there are deciduous, and evergreen, and semi-deciduous shrubs. All of them have high winter hardiness. From my own experience, I can say that the acquisition of a winter-hardy species or variety provides most of the success of the future plant, plus proper fit and agricultural technology.

Rhododendrons are often called azaleas, but few people can explain the difference between them. As far as I know, botanists do not use the word "azalea", but you can often find it at sellers.

Of the deciduous rhododendrons, we grow the following rhododendrons - Japanese salmon, Costerianum (Kosterianum) and rhododenrons of the Lights series (ultra-winter-hardy rhododendrons of American selection): Golden Lights "Golden Lights" (up to -30ºC), White Lights "White Lights" (up to - 40ºC), Rosie Lights "Rosy Lights" (up to -36ºC), Mandarin Lights "Mandarin Lights" (up to -36ºC), Lemon Lights "Lemon Lights" (up to -40ºC).

Here is some of them:

Japanese salmon rhododendron


Mandarin Lights "Mandarin Lights"

Rhododendron Mandarin Lights "Mandarin Lights"

Rhododendron Rosie Lights "Rosy Lights"

There is also a baby Kosterianum (Kosterianum), now it is about 50 cm high, but over time it should turn into a three-meter bush))

Of the evergreens, rhododendrons of Finnish selection grow: The Hague "Haaga" (up to -36ºC), Helsinki University "Helsinki University" (up to -39ºC). There is also the beloved Katevbinsky Grandiflorum "Catawbiense Grandiflorum" (up to -30ºС).

Rhododendron The Hague "Haaga"

Another rhododendron The Hague "Haaga".

Rhododendron The Hague "Haaga"

Rhododendron Katevbinsky Grandiflorum "Catawbiense Grandiflorum".

Rhododendron Katevbinsky Grandiflorum "Catawbiense Grandiflorum"

There are also a few bushes of an unusually beautiful semi-evergreen Japanese azalea Purpurkissen "Purpurkissen" (pillow-shaped dwarf) with frost resistance down to -25ºC. I cover these babies for the winter in arcs with lutrasil. It's not difficult at all. They bloom so profusely that you can't take your eyes off. This is one of the brightest varieties with non-fading colors among dwarfs. By the way, the width of the pillow reaches 1 m.

Rhododendron Purpurkissen "Purpurkissen" (dwarf)

Almost all plants were bought in pots with two-three-year-old bushes brought from Polish and German nurseries, but there are also varieties from collectors. The first two or three years for acclimatization in our climate, I covered them in winter. I put arcs over the bushes and 2 layers of lutrasil on them. Wintering went well, all rhododendrons bloomed.

It all starts with choosing a landing site

It would be ideal to plant rhododendrons, especially evergreen ones, in the undergrowth, in diffuse shade under the crowns of tall pines or spruces, that is, where they grow in nature. But we don’t have such a place, so I tried to plant it where the sun would be at a minimum.
When choosing a landing site, it should be noted that rhododendrons do not like low areas where water can stagnate. They do not like direct sunlight and dry, cold winds. They prefer shaded, quiet places with abundant watering and an acidic substrate rich in humus.

We have part of the rhododendrons growing from the north-eastern part of the house, where the sun is only until noon. But in winter time this sun is enough to destroy (dry) the flower buds.
After the winter, when I first decided to leave the rhododendrons uncovered, the benefit of winter hardiness allowed, and they had already grown and acclimatized, in the spring they were all alive and well. Everyone's flower buds began to swell, but no flowers appeared from them. The kidneys inside were empty, simply dried up! Although the bushes themselves grew and turned green. So, in my sad experience, I realized that for those rhododendrons that I am talking about, in our region it is not frost that is terrible in winter, but the sun and wind. Since then, I have been tying deciduous rhododendrons for the winter with a string and tying a lutrasil scarf on top. I do this to shade the flower buds from the sun and, as a result, dry out. Otherwise, they will overwinter, but they may not bloom.

And for evergreen rhododendrons, which are exposed to the sun in winter, you have to install a protective screen from the tint mesh.

Those bushes that grow under the protection of overgrown thujas, where there is very little sun, winter without shelter. Their kidneys are in in perfect order and in the spring they bloom beautifully.

"Running on a rake"

This is me to myself ((Last autumn I didn’t have time or was too lazy to put the wall screen on one evergreen rhododendron on which the sun hits. I decided that I would have time to do it in March. But a few sunny and windy March days managed to do their "dirty deed". When I arrived at the dacha to install the screen, I found that most of the buds on it had already turned brown, i.e. died and, as a result, this spring he will rest from flowers, ... and so will I ((After all, I know what to do, but no, I didn’t! Again on the same rake !!!

Dead rhododendron flower buds in section

For comparison, I will show a bush that grows almost in the shade under the protection of a thuja, the sun sees a minimum (no more than an hour) and hibernates without shelter. His kidneys are all green.

In addition to the kidneys, the leaves of evergreen rhododendrons can also suffer from the sun. AT winter period in the sun, the leaf cover evaporates moisture, while it is difficult for the roots of the plant to get water from the frozen ground to make up for this loss of water. And as a result, the leaves may die.
To reduce the evaporation of moisture, the leaves of evergreen rhododendrons are twisted into tubules in winter. It's theirs normal condition. In the spring, when the earth thaws, the leaves straighten out. If the ground under a layer of snow does not freeze, then the leaves do not curl.

I am talking about this in such detail because if someone decides to plant these wonderful plants, it is better to study other people's "rakes" than to run around on their own.
From the foregoing, the conclusion suggests itself that in the conditions of the Moscow region, due to low level humidity in rhododendrons in winter, flower buds can dry out, and they will have to be protected from the sun and wind for the winter. My St. Petersburg acquaintances do not have such problems because of the proximity of the Baltic Sea.

Planting, watering and care

The key to the successful development of a plant is not only watering and care, but first of all its proper planting. best time planting consider spring.

Rhododendrons have a very compact and shallow root system. For planting, we prepared pits ~ 40 cm deep and ~ 60-70 cm wide. On heavy clays, I would make less deep ~ 30 cm, but wider ~ 1.0-1.2 m. It is very important that the substrate for rhododendrons was sour.
We have sod-podzolic soils of the Moscow region, but still, for some plants, the soil has to be artificially acidified. The planting hole was filled with a mixture of special soil for rhododendrons, coniferous and leafy soil, river sand and, of course, among other things, in landing pit added peat. But peat is different for peat. It may be riding, or it may be lowland. The origin of peat also affects its chemical composition. Riding peat is acidic - 3-4 pH, in lowland peat, in which organic matter is 70%, the reaction is slightly acidic or neutral - 5.5-7 pH - this information is taken from "smart" books. Therefore, for plants that love acidic soils, I bring only high-moor peat. A complete mineral fertilizer was added to the soil mixture at the rate of 150 g / m². and 40-60 g of colloidal sulfur. Fertilizer should not contain calcium. I used special fertilizers for rhododendrons. The soil should be loose and breathable.

When planting a rhododendron, it is impossible to deepen the root neck, it must be at the level of the soil. Having pulled the bush out of the pot, it is necessary to soak the roots a little in water and then carefully “tear” this root ball MANDATORY! And only after that plant.

In most plants grown in pots, a dense crust of dead roots forms on the surface of the coma on all sides. It must be removed, or at least cut through in several places. Otherwise, young roots will not break through it, and the plant will receive little nutrients which in turn can lead to death. I have written about this several times in other posts. By the way, I also plant hydrangeas.

After planting in place, the plant must be watered and mulched.
I definitely make mulch from coniferous litter. The soil under the mulch should not dry out. I try to water with acidified water with the addition of apple or 9% vinegar (30-40 ml per bucket), citric acid(3-4 g per bucket of water), etc.

And now about the important. I have a lot of such plants, in the hot summer you don’t run into watering cans. Sometimes it is necessary to water from a hose with water from a well, and we have hydrocarbonate water. So, I solved the problem in the following way. First, I brought it into the planting hole, and then once a year, in the spring, under an adult bush (around), I pour out 1 sachet of Teovit Jet - this is colloidal sulfur, namely colloidal, because simple dissolves very poorly and can lie in lumps for a very long time soil surface. This drug is usually used as a fungicide, but when applied to the soil, sulfur gives the necessary acidification of the soil for a long time. And when I have to water from a well, my rhododendrons feel great, and even the sour under them grows by itself. I don’t weed out the sour, it does not harm the roots, but on the contrary, it is a natural forest “roommate” of rhododendrons. In addition, acid is an indicator of soil acidity and moisture. And in order not to be unfounded, I will show a photo. Unfortunately, I don’t have a good photo, but if you look closely, you can see the sour under the rhododendron bushes. In the same way, I acidify the soil under hydrangeas.

In hot weather, rhododendrons love spraying, but it is better to do it in the morning or evening so that the leaves do not burn in the sun. Late in the autumn, before wintering, I do abundant watering of the bushes. This helps them overwinter better.

Soil care is equally important. Since the root system of rhododendrons is superficial, loosen the soil around the bushes it is forbidden, but it is better to mulch with coniferous litter (layer 5-7 cm). Weeding should be done by hand, but with this layer of mulch, there are very few weeds. I won’t say anything about mulching with sawdust, because I haven’t tried it. In addition, in winter, mulch is a heater for the roots. In the photo above, coniferous mulch is clearly visible.

Another important point- this is the timely removal of faded inflorescences. The occupation is tedious, but I do it gradually, as it fades. This action prevents the formation of seeds, and directs the forces of the plant to bookmark the flower buds of the next year.

Feed the plants a little. Early spring - special mineral fertilizers, and after flowering - phosphorus-potassium and humates (soluble). Fertilizers should not contain calcium.

If there is a need to correct the shape of the bush, then you can trim. It is done immediately after flowering and no later than 20 days after flowering, otherwise flower buds will not have time to form on new shoots. I read about this on the websites of Western "gurus" on rhododendrons and I myself prune my plants this way.

From everything that I have written here, I will briefly summarize: having planted a frost-resistant variety in the “right” place with the “right” agricultural technology, you will admire the most beautiful flowers for many years. It only seems that it is difficult, but in fact everything is much simpler, but what a beauty!

It is believed that this wonderful shrub can only be grown experienced gardeners. And indeed, the plant is quite capricious and requires a lot of attention. And yet, it is possible to “tame” a handsome rhododendron if you know all its features and care requirements.

plant homeland

Rhododendron Katevbinsky or in Latin Rhododéndron catawbiense is a representative of the Heather family and, perhaps, most popular type from evergreen rhododendrons.

The homeland of the plant is the eastern part of North America, where the shrub grows on the slopes of the mountains, forming extensive flowering thickets in large open spaces or under the crowns of tall trees.

Rhododendron Katevbinsky in 1809 settled in Europe, where he was brought the very first of the entire genus of Rhododendrons. Thanks to extraordinary decorative effect and excellent winter hardiness, He gained immense popularity not only in all European countries but also in Russia.

Plant actively used for breeding new varieties of rhododendrons that are not afraid of harsh winters. On the basis of the Katevbinsky rhododendron, such varieties common in Russian latitudes as "Grandiflorum", "Roseum Eleganсe", "Album novum" were bred.

Bloom

Rhododendron Grandiflorum (Katevbinsky) is a large-leaved shrub with a lush rounded crown, reaching 4 meters in height.

Plant is a long-liver and is able to please the grower for up to 100 years. The elongated ellipsoid leaves of the plant are very decorative. They are painted in dark green color and cast with a glossy sheen.

However, most of all, the Katevbinsky rhododendron is valued for its luxurious flowering, which has earned it the title of "rose tree". The flowers of the shrub are shaped like large bells up to 6 cm in circumference. They are collected in lush racemose inflorescences, in which you can count up to 20 of these bells.

The color palette of the Katevbinsky rhododendron is diverse. You can find white, light purple, violet-red, lilac-purple and lilac-purple shades of flowers.

More information about this shrub can be found in the photo below:

The shrub begins to bloom in May. Flowering lasts a month, after which fruits are tied on the plant in the form of seed boxes. Seeds ripen in October.

Landing Features

Rhododendron Katevbinsky gets to the gardener's site most often in the form of a seedling purchased at a garden center.

Wherein for successful cultivation this shrub is important right choice seedling. On sale there are often specimens brought from Holland and France with a warm climate. Such seedlings are unlikely to take root in our climate zone.

For Russian latitudes, it is advisable to choose rhododendrons grown in similar conditions, for example, in nurseries in Finland.

You should not purchase rooted cuttings or adult plant bushes.

It is best to opt for a two to three year old seedling with a root system placed in a container. Before buying a bush must be examined. In a healthy rhododendron, the leaves have an even green color without signs of chlorosis or necrosis.

plant a plant possible in the spring and also during the summer until the end of August. You should choose a place with a lot of diffused light. An area in partial shade under a tall sprawling tree is ideal. The bush should grow at a distance of no closer than 2 meters from the tree.

It is not desirable that the rhododendron be next to trees that have a superficial root system - they will oppress the rhododendron. The best neighbors of the shrub are spruce, pine and larch. It is necessary that the site is protected from cold winds.

For rhododendron, it is very important what kind of soil the planting hole will be filled with.

Like all heathers, it needs loose, peaty, and humus-rich soil with a pH of 4.5 to 5.5. For its preparation, it is best to take brown high-moor peat with suitable acidity. Three parts of peat should be mixed with two parts of coniferous litter and one part of coarse sand.

If necessary, coniferous litter is replaced by rotted foliage or rotted (not fresh!) Sawdust obtained from conifers trees. This soil composition has the correct acid reaction, air permeability, moisture capacity and does not cake. You can also use a purchased substrate for rhododendrons.

Rhododendron Katevbinsky has compact root system therefore does not need a large landing pit. Her optimal dimensions- 60 cm in diameter and 40 cm deep. It is recommended to prepare the pit a couple of weeks before landing work. For such a pit, about 8 buckets of fertile soil are required. It is thoroughly mixed, filled with a planting hole and rammed.

Before boarding the root ball of the seedling is lowered into a bucket of water, holding it there until the bubbles stop emitting.

Landing the root neck is not deepened. The bush should be planted at the same depth as it grew in the container. At the end of the work, the earth is well spilled and mulched with pine needles or chopped wood chips. When planting, you should be very careful with the root ball and try not to damage the mycelium living on the roots, which provides the plant with good nutrition.

care requirements

Like any plant, the Katevbinsky rhododendron (grandiflorum), when planting and caring, needs regular watering and weeding.

At the same time, in no case should the earth be loosened - the shrub exists in close symbiosis with mushrooms, and careless loosening can damage the mycelium, which is so useful for the plant.

For the same reason, weeding around the rhododendron should be done by hand. If a weed with very long roots has grown under the bush, special care is required to remove it from the ground. You can also use a brush to lubricate the weeds with herbicide to kill them.

Rhododendron is very afraid of drying out of the soil, so watering should be regular and fairly plentiful - in warm summers, optimally once a week.

Each large bush will take about 50 liters. When watering, it is important to observe breaks, waiting until the next portion of water is absorbed into the ground. The most preferred option is early morning or evening watering with rain water.

Hard water, for example, from a well, can be softened and acidified by adding a little acetic acid (1%) to it at the rate of 2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water or citric acid - 3-4 g per 10-liter bucket. Another, the simplest method of acidification is the use of colloidal sulfur. For a young rhododendron, it is enough to pour 1-2 times a year into trunk circle a package weighing 40 g, and for a shrub with a height of at least 1 m - 2 packages.

Another way to soften water is to add brown peat to it. The mixture is thoroughly stirred and settled for a day. Sprinkling is very useful for rhododendron during hot weather and drought. Important condition- ash, dolomite, lime and other substances alkalizing the soil should not get into the root system nutrition zone.

In the first year, as the rhododendron settled in a new place, top dressing is not carried out. But already from the second year of life, it is possible to make annually in the spring with specialized long-acting fertilizer "Pokon".

When using conventional fertilizers, the plant is fed as follows: in early spring ammonium nitrate (from 10 to 15 g / l) is introduced, before the appearance of buds - a mineral complex, and in the last days of August - potassium sulfate, which enhances the frost resistance of the bush. Fertilizer must be applied necessarily in the form of a solution and in moist soil. Chlorine and calcium should be excluded from top dressing.

In winter, snow melt, temperature fluctuations and frosts are a certain danger to rhododendron- its bushes can break.

To avoid this, the root circle must be mulched for the winter.

Also bush big size should be tied up and fixed on a support - for example, a hut made of stakes around a bush, wrapped in non-woven material such as spunbond, is perfect.

When the snow falls, it is advisable to cover the rhododendron with young snow. If necessary, you can bend down its high branches so that they are also “wrapped” with snow. In the spring, after the snow melts and the ground thaws, the covering material is removed.

reproduction

Rhododendron can reproduce in several ways:

• seeds, which are best sown for seedlings in January. Seeds are sown superficially, they germinate in the light at a temperature of about 20 ° C. Transplantation in open ground - in the spring in the second year of life. The root neck cannot be buried.
• layering. With this method, a small piece of bark is removed from the branch, after which it is pressed against the nutritious and loose earth and secured with brackets. A rather large layer grows over the year. After another year, you can separate it and plant it in a new place.
• cuttings, which, unfortunately, take too long to take root - it takes 4 to 6 months.

Pests and diseases

Rhododendrons fairly stable to pests and diseases. The most common problem is alkalization of the soil, from which the leaves become ill with chlorosis - their veins turn yellow.

This condition is easily corrected by timely acidification of the soil. More serious is the case when the plant is damaged by a fungal or viral infection, why does the rhododendron wither.

Here it is important to cut off diseased branches in a timely manner, disinfect the cuts with charcoal or garden pitch, and then water the plant twice or thrice with an interval of 7 or 10 days with a solution of Trichodermin. In case of severe infestation, any systemic fungicide can be applied. And if they attack leaf-eating pests, an insecticide like "Aktara" will come to the rescue.

Conclusion

As we see, rhododendron Katevbinsky is very beautiful shrub, which responds to love and care with magnificent flowering and you can be sure of this, by watching the video below. With a little effort and getting used to the care of the plant, you can admire its charming flowering for many years.

Rhododendron "Grandiflorum" refers to the well-known and time-tested varieties of rhododendrons. It is one of the largest and most resistant varieties in the history of breeding.

It grows quite quickly and reaches 2.5-3 m in height.

"Grandiflorum" will delight in early June with stunningly beautiful lavender flowers with reddish dots.

Rhododendrons are robust, beautifully flowering, evergreen shrubs native to Southwest Asia, the Himalayas, North America and even Europe.

From wild varieties, a number of new varieties with improved qualities have been bred, which are constantly being improved.

Already in the middle of the 20th century, more than 10,000 varieties were registered, and the number is growing.

Evergreen varieties of rhododendrons are obtained by breeding, so they are also called hybrid. hybrid rhododendrons are famous for their decorative qualities and excellent frost resistance.

The leaves are oblong, leathery, and the large flowers come in almost every possible shade, depending on the cultivar.

To achieve a beautiful appearance of rhododendrons, we advise carefully picking off dead flowers after flowering so as not to interfere with the growth of new shoots.

The roots of rhododendrons are shallow, growing more to the sides in search of nutrients, so you should never plant a rhododendron too deep.

The soil should be acidic (pH 4.5-5.5), fertile and always moist.

Ideal for planting rhododendrons is a mixture of peat with garden soil covered with fallen leaves or crushed bark.

A place for planting rhododendrons should be chosen protected from wind and direct sun rays, semi-shaded.

A good choice for planting rhododendrons would be such seemingly "problematic" places in the garden as areas near the northern walls of houses or other outbuildings.

Rhododendron also feels good in wooded areas, especially under pines and under not too dense spruces.

Rhododendrons require annual mulching, good drainage, and protection from the spring sun.

Rhododendrons should be planted in spring in pits 50 cm deep and at least 70 cm wide. Mandatory is drainage from broken bricks and sand 15-20 cm, and if the pit is deeper, then 30-40 with the addition of small pebbles.

The distance between plants depends on the height and diameter of the crown and averages from 0.7 to 2 m.

When planting, make sure that the root system is not deepened, but is 3-4 cm above the soil level, taking into account precipitation.

A near-stem hole is made around the trunk and watered abundantly.

Be sure to mulch with needles, peat - this will protect the root system from mechanical damage, freezing and dehydration.

Rhododendron Katevbinsky is among the top ten most beautiful views heather family. This evergreen shrub can reach 4 meters in height, lives a very long time, with proper care will live more than 100 years.

This is one of the most winter-hardy and tall varieties. Feels great in partial shade, blooms very chic, covers foliage with flowers, real " Pink tree».

History of occurrence

The Katevbinsky rhododendron was brought to Europe in 1809 from North America, it was one of the first imported species. Spread very quickly (including in Russia) due to its beauty and endurance to adverse natural conditions.

What is the difference from other types?

At Rhododendron Katevbinsky, unlike many other species, the inflorescences have a wonderful delicate aroma. It is also worth noting that during the flowering period, it blooms so luxuriantly that it was awarded the name "Rose Tree".

sub-variety

• Hybrid variety Katevbinse Burso- this is one of the most winter-hardy species, can withstand up to 30 degrees below zero; loves to expand. Lilac-purple flowers are collected in large lush inflorescences.
• Purpureum hybrid — globular shrub with beautiful purple inflorescences (the color is very juicy), large inflorescences - 15 flowers each, odorless.
• Album (Catawbiense album)- this species has a slightly different shape - it is elongated, reaches a height of 3 m, its large flowers are white with a yellow core.

Bloom

• When and how - the flowering of Katevbinsky Rhododendron occurs in May - June, lasts about one month. Flowering is very intense, inflorescences consist of 15 - 20 large flowers of various shades.
• Care before and after flowering - water well and do not forget about top dressing, thanks to them the bush will not be depleted.
• What to do if it does not bloom - it is better to transplant to a better place and water well.

Use in landscape design

Rhododendron, of course, will decorate any corner of your garden, it will look great at the gazebo, at the bench, at the entrance to your house. You can also plant a whole alley along the path from it. Rhododendron goes well with ferns, hostas, and any conifers.

Step by step care instructions

Choosing a place for a plant

A place for it must be chosen taking into account the need, first of all, in lighting. It is best to place it in the partial shade of large trees, but not fruit trees. Ideally, it would be close to a pine tree - it has light partial shade and root systems will not interfere with each other. It is very important to consider that the plant does not like drafts.

What should be the soil?

We need loose fertile soil, preferably slightly acidic (maybe acidic), moist, but without stagnant water.

Planting can be different: seeds and seedlings. When buying seedlings, it is better to choose own-root ones, you can plant them in spring and summer, it is better right away permanent place in the garden, in the shade.

1. Seeds can be sown from January to March in nutrient soil (necessarily loose), do not bury them deep, you just need to lightly press. Water very carefully, water is best sprayed.
2. Before germination, the container with seeds must be covered with glass and provided with lighting 12 hours a day using a phytolamp.
3. After the emergence of seedlings, remove the glass, continue to maintain humidity and lighting, and when 3 leaves grow, then plant the seedlings in separate containers.
4. In spring or early summer, these "kids" can be planted in a garden protected from the winds. appropriate place(or a year later in the spring).

They will begin to bloom in 2 or 3 years, with this planting method, you can get a plant with improved properties.

Temperature

The lowest temperature that this shrub can withstand is 30 degrees below zero, and the highest is 30 degrees Celsius, while the optimum is from minus 10 to plus 25 degrees.

Watering

Rhododendron is very moisture-loving, in extreme heat it is necessary to water deeply about 2-3 times a week. It will also be useful in the heat to sprinkle the bush from the hose only on the leaves. Water should be soft, preferably acidic.

top dressing

Be sure to feed the shrub, fertilize from early spring until the end of August.

1. Twice a season, you need to make organic top dressing in this form - for one bush, a bucket of cow manure and rotted compost.
2. The rest of the time, fertilize with an aqueous infusion of organics, it is also good to add during the budding period double superphosphate, flowering will be even more magnificent.

pruning

Remove only faded buds.

It is best to transplant the plant in the spring.

How to prepare for winter?

For the winter you need:

1. Mulch the trunk circle of the shrub, before that it is good to spill it with water (before frosts).
2. You also need to build a reliable support from wooden stakes in the form of a hut, you can still use covering material.

Reproduction features

• layering- a strip of bark is removed from the lower branch (cut) and this place is pressed to the ground, fixed with a bracket. The soil in this place must necessarily be loose, so that rooting can easily occur. A year later, the young seedling is ready for self-planting.
• seeds- sow for seedlings in winter, and it is better to plant in open ground in a year.
• cuttings- cut them in the spring from the apical parts, the soil is required light and loose, greenhouse conditions. This process is quite lengthy, rooting takes place for almost half a year.

Diseases and pests

Diseases that may appear in Katevbinsky Rhododendron mainly occur due to improper soil (too dense) and stagnant water. Because of this fungal diseases may appear - chlorosis, rust or spotting. It is urgent to adjust the watering and, if necessary, transplant the bush, also treat it with iron chelate.

"Favorite" insects - pests:

• spider mite;
• scab;
• bedbugs.

For processing, you need to apply any fungicide - "Diazin" or "Tiram".

Prevention

The most reliable prevention is good caring care. It is also useful to spray once a month during the spring-summer season. Bordeaux liquid.

Conclusion

Absolutely all types of Rhododendrons are distinguished by some unique feature. In addition to their beauty, many still bring utilitarian benefits, they are able to heal, quench their thirst with the help of tea from their wonderful flowers. Unfortunately, for some reason, some are afraid to breed this miracle of nature on their site and in vain. You just need to follow the advice and everything will work out.

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Flowers, like people, different fates. Some flowers quickly win our hearts and gardens, while some have a long and thorny path. And often it is impossible to understand what it is connected with. Such a mystery is the rhododendron flower, perhaps the most beautifully flowering and ornamental shrub growing in middle lane.

Why rhododendron flowers in the 20th century in Russia did not find their fans is very difficult to understand, but a fact is a fact. Moreover, it is especially surprising that the lilac brought to us in the 18th century has become a native, folk flower for us, and garden rhododendron, growing in Russia, we bypassed our attention.

In this article we will talk about the history of these plants, talk about varieties of rhododendrons, show different kinds rhododendrons in the photo and give recommendations on their cultivation in the middle zone.

The history of the garden plant rhododendron

In Russia, rhododendrons began to be grown at the end of the 19th century. E. Regel was one of the first to take up this culture in the Imperial Botanical Garden. And soon the nursery of the Pomological Garden of E. Regel offered 18 varieties of only soft rhododendron (Rhododendron molle). The same E. Regel brought about a dozen varieties of Caucasian rhododendron (Rh. caucasicum). were selected and various forms R. Japanese (Rh. japonicum). And various natural species were also widely used, such as r. stiff-haired (Rh. hirsutum) and r. Smirnov (Rh. smirnowii) and others.

As a result, in the gardens of St. Petersburg at the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th century, they were widely distributed and loved by gardeners. They were planted in large curtains and even alleys were created from them. In the work of S. Voronina "Gardens Silver Age» provides many examples of gardens that have used rhododendrons. But it is enough to mention only one example that confirms the wide distribution and love for this culture of our compatriots, this is the memory of T. L. Shchepkina-Kupernik about the estate of M. V. Krestovskaya Marioka: for 40 acres, such fiery azaleas that burned like living bonfires on June white nights ... "

But after the revolution, these works were forgotten, and the varieties obtained by E. Regel disappeared in the abyss of time. Of course, the plants could not stand the difficult revolutionary and post-revolutionary years, and the collections and gardens perished. But why they did not receive the deserved attention later, it is difficult to understand.

In recent years, there has been interest in this culture, and garden centers are literally "inundated" with planting material. Rhododendron plants are becoming fashionable, prestigious plants in the "new Russian" gardens. But there are many negative reviews gardeners about this culture, who suffered the sad experience of growing rhododendrons. Poorly trained garden center staff, who often offer varieties that cannot grow in our climate, and low culture our gardeners who purchase plants without thinking about the conditions needed to grow them. And rhododendrons require the creation of special conditions for their successful growth, and they do not forgive mistakes, “punishing” the negligent gardener with their death.

Does it make sense then to start them and is it difficult to care for them? Grow these plants in the garden or not, of course, you decide. But it is worth seeing them at least once in color, as this question will no longer arise. Therefore, they were included in the list of hits. You just need to choose the right place and create a landing hole with the necessary soil. Further care is little different from care.

The second problem is related to the choice planting material. There are problem-free options, there are more difficult to care for and those that simply will not grow with us. Winter hardiness temperatures given in some catalogs do not always help in resolving this issue.

Rhododendron seedlings are rooted and grafted. Own-rooted plants propagated vegetatively should be purchased. During micropropagation, deviations from the properties of the original variety are possible.

Types of rhododendrons and their photos

When choosing rhododendrons for your garden, preference should be given to winter-hardy species and varieties derived from them. The most unpretentious and winter-hardy types of deciduous rhododendrons. They will allow you to get the longest flowering, which will open the river. dahurian (Rh. dahuricum) at the end of April. Following him, the river will bloom. Ledebour (Rh. ledebourii) and r. Canadian (Rh. canadense).

As seen above in the photo, these types of rhododendrons bloom with pink-purple flowers.

Rhododendron Fraser (Rh x fraseri)- a hybrid of Canadian rhododendrons and molly. Blooms early, following the river. daursky and r. Canadian. The flowers are medium-sized, purple-violet, resembling moths. Bushes are undersized, up to 1.2 m high.

Japanese rhododendron

In May, various forms and varieties of Japanese rhododendron (Rh. japonicum) flare up with all kinds of colors. Together with it blooms bright yellow flowers yellow rhododendron (Rh. luteum).

Japanese rhododendron is one of the most spectacular and at the same time one of the most unpretentious deciduous rhododendrons. Seedlings of this species are often found on sale. The flowers are large, fragrant, from pale salmon to scarlet red. White-flowered and yellow-flowered forms of this species are known. In autumn, the bushes “flare” with purple foliage. Bush 1.4-2 m high.

Do not confuse the various cultivars of the river. Japanese with Japanese azaleas, also called Kurum azaleas. Japanese azaleas are bred on the basis of blunt rhododendron (Rh. obtusum), a semi-evergreen shrub. Although these azaleas are widely sold in our garden centers and in the markets and for them lead low temperatures winter hardiness, they are not very suitable for cultivation in central Russia.

Schlippenbach Rhododendron

It is impossible not to remember one of the most beautiful rhododendrons - Schlippenbach (Rh. schlippenbachii), which, like all handsome men, requires increased attention.

It has rather large (5-8 cm in diameter) flowers of a very delicate pale pink color with pink-purple speckles, which have delicate aroma. Schlippenbach rhododendron flower buds can be damaged spring frosts and in winters with frequent thaws, and the bushes themselves suffer in harsh winters, so for the winter it requires good shelter and can only be recommended to experienced gardeners.

Don't try to start rhododendron kamchatka (Rh. kamtschaticum), which is often recommended in our literature based on where it grows. It is not so easy to care for, because northern plants often feel just as uncomfortable with us as southern ones, since not all species are satisfied with a noticeably longer growing season due to longer warm weather. It can only be recommended to experienced flower growers.

The main assortment of deciduous rhododendrons is made up of varieties bred using several species, which does not allow them to be attributed to any one of them. They are often combined into various groups depending on the parent pairs used and the breeding site.

High resistance to our climate is distinguished by many varieties of popular groups Knap Hill (Knap Hill) and Exbury (Exbury), created in England by A. Waterer and L. Rothschild, respectively. These two groups are related, and they are often combined into one. The varieties of these groups today make up the main world assortment of deciduous rhododendrons and are widely represented on our market. Many hybrids of these groups have winter hardiness down to -30°C.

The greatest winter hardiness and, therefore, reliability in culture in central Russia among deciduous rhododendrons are varieties of the Northern Light group (Northern Lights), created in the USA. They can withstand temperatures down to -42°C. Quite winter-hardy in the conditions of the middle lane pink rhododendron (Rh. roseum), blooming fragrant pink flowers, and sticky rhododendron (Rh. viscosum) with white or pinkish flowers. The latter is interesting for late flowering and very fragrant flowers.

Closes the flowering of rhododendrons in July arborescent rhododendron (Rh. arborescens), blooming white or pinkish flowers with a strong pleasant aroma.

Photo varieties of rhododendron

We bring to your attention to see photos of varieties of rhododendrons suitable for our climate.

April Snow (April Sno)- an early-flowering hybrid of Dahurian rhododendron. Flowers white, double. Densely branched shrub up to 1.6 m high.

Rhododendron "Klondyke" ("Klondike")- a very bright variety. As you can see in the photo, the rhododendron of this species has orange buds, fragrant, large, rich yellow flowers and raspberry-red leaves. The height of the bush reaches 1.2-2 m.

"Liesma" ("Liesma")- a hybrid of Japanese rhododendron. The flowers are very large, shiny, blazing salmon color. Bush 1.2-2 m high.

"Mandarin Lights" ("Tangerine Lights")- with reddish-orange large flowers with a well-defined orange spot on the upper lobe, having a light aroma. The bush is low, up to 1.0-1.5 m.

Rhododendron variety "Narcissiflora" ("Narcissiflora") has very fragrant star-shaped semi-double flowers of lemon-yellow color. Bush 1.0-1.8 m high.

Rhododendron "Persil" ("Persil") blooms with white flowers, the upper petal of which is decorated with a large yellow spot. Plant height 1.4-1.8 m.

"Cunninghams White" ("Cunninghams White")- a hybrid of the Caucasian rhododendron, is one of the most popular varieties. It blooms with white flowers with a yellowish-green spot on the upper petal. He is very unpretentious and hardy, but needs a reliable winter shelter because flower buds can withstand temperatures down to -21°C. Bush 1.4-1.8 m high.

Not so extensive, but quite diverse and the choice of evergreen rhododendrons. The highest winter hardiness have r. Katevbinsky (Rh. catawbiense), r. short-fruited (Rh. brachycarpum) and r. Fori (Rh.fauriei), some botanists consider the latter a kind of river. short-fruited.

Rhododendron Fori- very winter-hardy species with large evergreen leaves. White flowers with a slightly noticeable pink and a greenish speck on the upper petal are collected in spherical inflorescences. Plant height 1.5-2.5 m.

Accordingly, hybrids of these species also have high winter hardiness. But do not forget that the winter hardiness of hybrids is also determined by other parents of this variety, so the hybrid may have noticeably less winter hardiness than the species.

If you grow Katevbinsky rhododendron from seeds, then the seedlings will be better adapted to local conditions, and the color will vary, and you will get plants with flowers. different shades. Therefore, even using species plants, a relatively diverse spectrum of color can be obtained.

Rhododendron Smirnov, r. largest, r. Yakushimsky, r. Metternich, r. Caucasian. However, their winter hardiness is lower and problems can arise in severe winters. Accordingly, hybrids of these varieties are quite winter-hardy. But among them, some varieties are able to winter under cover, while others do not winter with us. Therefore, it makes sense to start these species and their varieties when you have already gained experience in growing the previously noted rhododendrons.

Particularly great success in breeding winter-hardy rhododendrons was achieved by P. Tigerstedt and M. Uosukainen at the University of Helsinki. Their varieties are distinguished by high winter hardiness, and they can be grown in our gardens.

Unfortunately, not all varieties are highly decorative and not all bloom profusely every year.

So, "Pohjola's Daughter" (Poholaz Doute) often pleases only with decorative evergreen foliage, since the buds withstand frosts down to -20 ... -23 ° C.

When choosing evergreen rhododendrons for your garden, do not forget about cute kids: r. stiff-haired (Rh. hirsutum), described below, p. dense (Rh. impeditum), r. equal (Rh. fastigiatum), r. rusty (Rh. ferrugineum). These low, dense evergreen shrubs overwinter well enough under snow.

Stiff-haired rhododendron is a dense squat bush (up to 0.7-1 m) with small evergreen foliage. It blooms profusely with intense pink funnel-bell-shaped flowers. There is a white-flowered form. It tolerates an increase in soil acidity. It is winter-hardy, but it is better to cover young plants for the winter.

Rhododendron rusty also blooms with pink flowers. There is a white-flowered form. Rhododendrons dense and equally tall are distinguished by violet-blue flowers and a dense compact form. Shrubs only up to 0.7 m high. Their varieties are also resistant in culture, although here it is already worth being careful.

Rhododendron "Katevbinsky Grandiflorum"

"Catawbiense Grandiflorum" ("Katevbinsky Grandiflorum")- rhododendrum of an old, reliable variety, blooming with light purple flowers with a golden brown pattern on the upper petal. The bush is powerful, dense, wide-rounded, up to 2.5 m high.

Photo of pink rhododendron flowers

Rhododendron variety "Hellikki" ("Hellicky") stands out with catchy intense pink-red flowers. The variety requires a carefully selected place, fairly open, but at the same time protected from the winds and shaded from the midday heat. If you create conditions that suit him, you will be rewarded with luxurious flowering. Bush 1.2-1.8 m high.

Rhododendron "Helsinki University" ("Helsinki University") - great variety, pleasing stamina. As you can see in the photo, the flowers of the Helsinki rhododendron variety are pale pink, covering the entire bush. The plant is low, 1-1.6 m.

Kalinka ("Kalinka")- very viable low (up to 1.0 m) hemispherical hybrid of yakushiman rhododendron. It blooms profusely with pink flowers with a white center.

Rhododendron 'Roseum Elegans' ("Roseum Elegance")- a variety of the XIX century, but still has not lost its relevance due to its vitality and abundant flowering with lilac-pink flowers. A bush up to 1.5 m high. In recent years, the appearance of less hardy clones has begun to be noted.

Rhododendron 'Haaga' ("Hague") has lilac-pink flowers with discreet red-orange freckles and slightly wavy edges, which are collected in large spherical inflorescences. Blooms very profusely. After flowering, the bush is decorated with shiny dark green foliage. Plant height 1.5-2.0 m.

homebush ("Homebush")- the original variety of rhododendron, in which pale pink double flowers are collected in large spherical inflorescences. Bushes are dense, upright growing, up to 1.5 m high.

Rhododendron "Raisa" ("Raisa")- low (up to 0.7 m) rounded bush with rather large evergreen foliage, blooming with bright red-pink flowers. M. Gorbachev chose him from the hybrids presented to him in order to name him in memory of his wife Raisa. One hundred bushes were donated for the park of the hospital named after R. Gorbacheva in St. Petersburg.

Rhododendron "Nova Zembla"

Nova Zembla ("Nova Zembla"), perhaps the most popular red variety. The flowers are ruby ​​red with dark purple-brown flecks and golden anthers. Rhododendron bushes "Nova Zembla" are powerful, fast-growing, up to 2 m high. In central Russia, it needs reliable shelter. The sometimes reported winter hardiness of -32°C is a clear exaggeration.

Description of dark rhododendrons

"Rasputin" ("Rasputin")- one of the darkest varieties in color. Intense purple flowers with a large dark purple spot on the upper petal. Requires shelter for the winter, although the last harsh winters suffered without shelter under the snow and bloomed. Bush 1.4-2 m high.

"Bogumil Kavka" ("Bogumil Kavka")- Czech variety with dark purple flowers with brown spots on the upper petals. The description of the rhododendron of this variety is similar to the description of the Rasputin rhododendron, however, the bush has a more sprawling shape, with stems of purple-violet tones, about 1 m high.

Fireball ("Fireball") characterized by very bright red-orange flowers and crimson-red autumn foliage. Bush 1.4-1.8 m high.