Red currant planting and care. Proper planting of red currants in autumn

Redcurrant care includes: watering, mulching, pruning, top dressing and pest and disease control.

Watering red currant

Proper watering of red currants is the key to a rich harvest. Although the red-eyed beauty is not as demanding on moisture as blackcurrant species, the lack of water has a bad effect on the growth of pets, their development and fruiting.

Usually, each redcurrant bush needs 2-3 waterings for the whole summer (with soil moisture up to half a meter). To find out if a plant needs water, dig the soil under the bushes. If the soil is dry at the bottom, watering is needed.

When growing currants, young bushes especially need to drink; during the dry summer season, they need to be watered more often.

Currants urgently need watering during the formation and growth of berries and shoots (this is the month of June). Also, the plant needs plenty of water after harvest (August-September).

Mulching red currants

In order to preserve moisture in the soil, mulching should be widely practiced, especially in the southern regions. To do this, in the spring, after the first treatment, the soil surface is covered with leaves, peat or straw manure with a layer of 6-8 cm. If there is a sufficient amount of mulching materials, they cover the entire area of row spacing. If these materials are not enough, then they mulch in rows, only strips about 1 m wide. Weeds breaking through the mulch are weeded out in a timely manner. Experiments show that as a result of soil mulching, the yield of currants almost doubles.

Red currant pruning

Currant bushes, like any other plants, inevitably grow old. Pruning will help update the culture. Pruning is carried out in the fall. Shoots are radically shortened, no more than 4 buds should remain. Next year, you need to carefully examine the bush and leave the three or four strongest root shoots. The weak must be mercilessly disposed of.

As many years of experience in the cultivation of red currant shows, better yield have shoots no older than 5 years. If the bush is older - it's time to start rejuvenating. Every year it is desirable to cut at least three old branches. If the plant is already very old, you can resort to a radical method - completely cut down the bush. The root will give new replacement shoots, which replace the old currant. Such a radical pruning can be carried out even in summer.

Red currant nutrition

When fertilizing a crop, it must be borne in mind that currants are sensitive to chlorine. Specific doses depend on soil fertility. As already noted, at present, one-time application (refueling) of phosphorus and potash fertilizers up to 500 kg/ha. active ingredient followed by annual application nitrogen fertilizers 60-100 kg/ha. d.c.

Strip deep fertilization is also used - once every 3-4 years the soil is plowed in the aisles to make furrows 25-30 cm deep. When the content in the humus horizon is 30 mg. mobile phosphorus and 25-30 mg. potassium, these fertilizers are not necessary for currants. The optimal ratio in the leaves for the fruiting of blackcurrant of the main nutrients is: N - 2.9, P205-0.60, K20-2.0% on dry matter.

This conclusion was reached by many researchers involved in sheet diagnostics. The average removal of nutrients during the harvest of blackcurrant berries is 70 centners/ha. is equal to: N - 97.6 kg, P205 - 46.2 kg, K20 - 79.6 kg / ha. Good results are also foliar top dressing currants; before flowering - with a solution of urea at a concentration of 0.3%, superphosphate (0.2%) and potassium sulfate (0.3%), then spraying is repeated along the green ovary, respectively, at concentrations of 0.6; 3; 0.8%. Foliar top dressing with microelements - solutions of salts of iodine, molybdenum and cobalt are especially effective.

Prevention of the appearance of diseases and pests of red currant

If they do appear - do not start with a "chemical bombardment" of your site, but try manual pest removal methods. Can also be applied folk remedies, and against fungal diseases - biological preparations. A good non-toxic option, such as green soap.

And only if these methods did not bring results, and the situation worsens, you can use chemical agents.

Diseases of red currant and their control

Like other species, red currants are susceptible to fungal and viral diseases. The most dangerous among them is terry. This is a very insidious virus, as it develops, it changes the appearance of the bush and leads to currant infertility. Most often, it affects black currants, but since the carrier is a bud mite that also settles on red, bushes with scarlet berries are also not immune from it. If no signs of a kidney mite were found on the currant, then the virus was transferred with planting material or through infected garden tools. Reversion - terry is a popular name - does not develop in one year, and the longer the infected bush remains in place, the higher the risk of disease of other plants.

Another common virus is the striped mosaic virus. On the leaves of an infected plant, along the veins, a bright pattern appears, gradually filling the entire surface of the leaf. This leads to a decrease and complete absence of yield, and death of the plant. As with terry, the bush with the virus is uprooted and burned.

Pests of red currant and their control

Currant goldfish. The larvae of this beetle pest prefer to feed on the core of redcurrant branches. The shoot that has been damaged has a drying out of the top, which in a short time covers the entire shoot. As a result of this, the fruiting of the currant bush is weakened, and the berries themselves become small.

The larvae of the currant beetle hibernate inside the shoot, which has been damaged. They have a flattened shape that is widened near the head. They begin to pupate right on the run. Young bugs emerge from the shoot in late spring and early summer. A week after departure, the females begin to lay eggs directly on the bark of young shoots, as well as on leaf petioles.

They cover their eggs with their secretions, which subsequently harden on the bark and turn into a hard oval shield. Then, on average, two weeks after oviposition, the larvae begin to emerge from the eggs, which immediately bite into the shoot and feed on its core, as well as the wood itself.

Measures against currant borer include cutting and subsequent burning of shoots, as well as timely pruning of currant bushes in the phase of dormant buds. Careful selection of planting material should be made.

Gooseberry sawfly. There are 2 types of gooseberry sawfly - yellow and pale-footed. Their larvae, hidden in dense cocoons, hibernate under currant and gooseberry bushes at a depth of 10-12 cm. In early spring, they pupate and, by the time of flowering, adults fly out, resembling small wasps. The females lay their eggs along the main leaf veins. reverse side. Soon the caterpillars appear and begin to eat the leaves.

In the pale-legged sawfly, they are one-color-green, in the false caterpillars of the yellow sawfly, the body is covered with black warts.

Podzimnaya digging the ground around the bushes will destroy some of the wintering larvae. After flowering, the caterpillars can be harvested by hand. Good results are obtained by treatment with insecticides - Decis and Inta-Vir.

Redcurrant is not as sprawling as black: its shoots tend upwards, not in breadth, which means that in the garden this culture occupies less space. The plant needs more light, but it is not demanding on moisture. Redcurrant can grow in one place for a long time (up to 25 years) and at the same time not lose in productivity. These features must be taken into account when choosing a place for a seedling and planting it.

The nuances of planting red currants at different times of the year

If you need to propagate your own bush, then the best time to plant is early autumn. In the case when you decide to acquire a new variety by purchasing seedlings in a nursery or a specialized store, you don’t have to choose: the planting time will depend on when you managed to buy planting material.

It takes 4-5 years for your seedling to turn into such a luxurious bush.

Planting in the spring

In order for the berry bush to take root well in the spring, it must be planted before bud break. However, during this period, the earth has not yet dried out, and gardeners open the summer season much later - when buds are already being laid on the currants. At this time, seedlings are bought with already blossoming leaves and an open root system (with bare roots, without an earthy coma). The chances that such a currant will take root are very low, but there are agricultural practices that will help the bush take root in a new place.

Viable red currant seedlings: the root system is well developed, the leaves are not wilted

Rules for planting red currants in spring:

If there are buds on the seedling, remove them so that the plant can direct all its forces to rooting.
In no case do not cut off the leaves, even if they wilted and hung! In the axil of each leaf, a bud of the next year develops. There will be no leaves - there will be no buds, the bare shoot will simply wither. To restore the turgor (i.e., elasticity and tone) of the leaves, lower the seedling with its roots into the water for several hours. It is advisable to add root formation stimulants: Epin (1 ml per 5 l of water), Zircon (4 drops per 1 l), Kornerost (1 tablet per 2.5 l) or others.
Shorten the shoots so that the aerial part and the roots are about the same size. At the same time, keep in mind that the base of the seedling stem when planting must be deepened by 5–7 cm.
After planting, spray currants with "vitamins" for plants that help to cope with a stressful situation, for example, Energen Extra (1 capsule per 1 liter of water).
Shade currants for the first days, keep the soil constantly moist.

Landing in summer

Now seedlings are increasingly being sold with a closed root system, that is, grown in containers. The easiest option for planting in the summer is to buy such a seedling and transplant it by transshipment to a permanent place. In this case, the root is removed from the container with a clod of earth, which prevents damage; the plant quickly takes root, begins to grow new shoots and leaves.

Seedlings with a closed root system take root well even in summer

Summer planting is also necessary if you bought red currants in a pot or container with already blossoming leaves in late winter - early spring. Where do such seedlings come from, if the earth is just beginning to thaw? These are cuttings that were rooted last year, but did not have time to sell. They are placed on winter storage in refrigerators or cellars until spring. Often such bushes have not only leaves, but also thin, elongated and discolored shoots. On this basis, we can conclude that before the plants were sold, they were stored incorrectly: in warmth and darkness. If you bought such pampered seedlings long before the onset of the summer season, in no case do not expose them immediately to the street - they will die from both the bright sun and frost. There is only one way out - to keep the currants on the windowsill or in the greenhouse for the entire period, while the threat of frost remains, that is, until the summer.

If the roots of the seedling are not in a container, but wrapped in a film, unfold, inspect them, cut off the rotten ones and plant the bush in a container, the volume of which corresponds to the size of the roots. Use ready-made soil mixture for universal purposes or mix garden soil with humus and peat in equal proportions.
If the seedling is in a cup, the volume of which is less than the above-ground part, transplant it by transshipment into a larger container.
Place the seedling in a bright and cool window.
Currants will have to be watered extremely rarely, in a pot it will grow very slowly and consume water poorly. Watering is needed only when the top 2–3 cm dry out or the leaves are slightly wilted, but watering should be plentiful in order to wet the entire clod of earth.
On the pot, make a mark with a marker on the side where the south is. Always keep the currant in this position: with the mark to the south. In the same way, orient the bush during hardening and when planting in the ground.
On warm days, start hardening currants: take them out under open sky first for an hour; for a week, the duration should be increased to daylight hours. Bring the seedling indoors at night.
Planting currants in a permanent place is possible only after the end of frost and the establishment of warm weather. In central Russia, this happens in early June.

Video: the pros and cons of seedlings in a container

Planting in autumn

Autumn is the most favorable period for planting berry bushes. Its advantages:

It is possible to prepare a place on the site, in contrast to spring planting.
The seedlings on sale are fresh, they have not been stored in the basement all winter, they do not need to be hardened.
It’s not scary if the leaves dry up and crumble, because. buds have already formed.

But there is a nuance in autumn planting: currants need to be bought and planted a month before the onset of cold weather, that is, in early September, otherwise it will not have time to take root and freeze in winter.

Choosing a place for a seedling, bad and good neighbors

Dig a planting hole where it will be comfortable for the currant, and not for you. This culture loves sunlight, does not tolerate waterlogging and close groundwater. If possible, plant the bush on a well-lit hillock or other sunny place. You can not plant red currants in the shade of fences and trees.

Plant red currants in an open, unshaded area

Be sure to keep the right neighborhood. Redcurrant gets along well with gooseberries, but grows poorly and bears fruit next to its closest relative - blackcurrant. Also, you can not place seedlings next to raspberries, cherries and other trees and shrubs that give growth. The root offspring of the neighbors can germinate inside the redcurrant bush, it will be impossible to get them out of there.

The main part of the roots of red currant is concentrated at a depth of 30-50 cm, so you can grow vegetables, herbs, strawberries and other crops with a superficial location of roots nearby.

Tip: planting onions around redcurrants will protect the bush from pests.

Pit preparation

Redcurrant grows well on slightly acidic loamy and sandy soils. The site must be cleared of weeds in advance and a planting hole prepared. If you plant several bushes, then follow the scheme: 1.5 meters in a row and 2 meters between rows. The seedling hole needs to be filled with loose and fertile soil mixture, which will supply the red currant with nutrients for several years. Do this in advance, at least 2-3 weeks before planting, so that all the components in the pit have time to sink.

Video: how to properly prepare a landing pit

The classic dimensions of the landing pit are 60 cm in diameter and 50–60 cm deep. But on poor, clayey, rocky lands, these parameters can be even larger - up to a meter in diameter, because the larger the pit, the more soil suitable for currants will enter into it.

Stages of preparing a landing pit:

Set aside the top layer of earth when digging a hole in a separate pile.
After digging a hole of the desired depth, fill it up to half with humus or compost, add 2 cups wood ash and fill up to the top with the earth of the upper layer.
Mix all ingredients well.

Landing hole ready: dug, filled nutrient soil, marked with a peg

The process of planting a currant seedling

With seeming simplicity, planting a young currant has its own characteristics. If you know and use them, the seedling will take root very easily, grow and quickly give new shoots necessary for the formation of a bush.

So, we plant red currants:

In the prepared and filled planting hole, make a hole slightly larger than the root of the seedling.
Lay the seedling at a 45⁰ angle, with the top facing north. In this position, young shoots will grow from south side without obscuring the old ones.
Deepen the seedling, that is, place it in the hole so that part of it (5–7 cm from the root neck) is underground.
Cover the roots with soil, lightly tamp.
Make a roller around the circumference, pour over the currants and mulch.

Video: rules for planting a currant bush

There is an opinion: if you shorten (trim) the roots of a seedling, then the root buds will wake up faster, from which replacement shoots will grow. But such operations are only for experienced gardeners, it is better for beginners to skip this step in planting currants.

If the bush needs a transplant

Many gardeners often have this situation: first they planted a young bush, and then they read about the rules for planting and realized that they had chosen the wrong place or had not prepared the hole correctly. As a result, the currant grows poorly, gives weak shoots, there are few of them. The error can be corrected by transplanting with the implementation of all the previously described agricultural practices. Best time for transplantation - autumn, when the next year's buds are laid and ripened.

Still unfruitful small bush it will be easy to dig and move. Water the currant well the day before, dig it up and, without shaking off the roots, transfer it with a clod of earth to a suitable prepared place.

It is much more difficult to transplant an adult bush:

Cut off old branches at ground level, shorten young ones by half.
Dig around the bush around the perimeter, the bulk of the roots lie at a depth of up to 50 cm, and in breadth do not go beyond the periphery of the crown.
Do not pull the bush out of the ground by the shoots! To lift it, use a shovel, crowbar and similar tools.
After the bush can be dug up, inspect the roots, cut off the rotten and damaged ones. Collect and burn pest larvae.
Carefully transfer the bush to a new place and plant it in a hole prepared in advance for it.

Transplantation of an adult bush: currants were dug around and lifted with a metal pipe

Planting red currants is not as easy as it might seem. If you want to grow a strong and productive bush from a small seedling, then just dig a hole and plant it as it will be, it will not be enough. You need to choose the right seedling, the time and place for planting it, as well as know the tricks that will help the currant get used to the new place faster.

Redcurrant is a frequent visitor to household plots avid gardeners. Its berries are not only beautiful, but also very useful. When proper care from each bush it is possible to collect from 8 to 9 kg of selected berries. Today we will tell you what kind of care for red currants, which can grow in one place for about 25 years, should be carried out by a summer resident, about the most popular varieties, useful qualities fruit, possible problems with independent cultivation.

Proper care for the beloved by many red currants can be carried out knowing only a few nuances. In the spring, it really needs pruning. In April, bushes should be fed with urea. Next, loosening is carried out to a depth of no more than 8 cm. It is possible to protect the culture from the harmful effects of late May frosts by performing the smoke procedure. During this period, there is a risk of infection of the bushes with terry. The soil must always be sufficiently moist.

In summer, namely in June, it is required to make organic top dressing. Be sure to spray crops with a solution of microfertilizers. It is necessary to monitor whether nests of moths have appeared on the bushes. After the harvest of berries is harvested, watering and loosening is carried out.

In autumn, it is customary to propagate the plant vegetatively. At the end of September, mineral and organic top dressings are introduced into the soil. Do not forget about pruning bushes and winter watering (if the weather is dry in autumn). In order to awaken the culture from hibernation in early March, the bushes are watered warm water. It is recommended to use the drug "Nitrafen" or a solution blue vitriol.

In order to prevent the appearance of pests, bushes should be treated with agents that have shown themselves well in practice. These are Karbofos, Aktellik, Rovikurt preparations. This should be done only during the formation of buds. Once again, the procedure should be carried out then after harvesting. Pour water during irrigation into specially formed circular grooves. They are made at a distance of up to 40 cm from the bush.

To meet the moisture needs of bushes growing on the site, you will need from 20 liters of liquid for each square meter landing area. Next, we’ll talk in more detail about the most important procedures for ensuring normal growth and full development of your favorite culture. Experienced and novice gardeners will be able to learn how to properly plant, as well as about various types pruning and propagation of red currants.

Landing

If we talk about the technology of growing currants, then you need to start with planting it. The best time to do this is in September. It is also permissible to plant bushes in mid or late April. For landing, you should choose a normally lit slope on the south side. Currant grows well on chernozems, forest soils, in which there is a large amount of humus useful for culture. Still in loamy soil. But it must necessarily have a neutral or slightly acidic acidity.

Experienced gardeners say that it is better to take seedlings if they are already 1 to 2 years old. A prerequisite is the presence of a root system, the size of which is 20 cm. The leaves are removed, and the roots need to be lowered for several hours in clean water. It is required to dig a hole with a diameter of up to 60 cm, the depth of which is about 40 cm.

The soil mixture ideally consists of earth with the addition of 10 kg of peat or humus, 200 grams of superphosphate, 40 grams of potassium sulfate, or wood ash per bush. The distance between the holes should be up to 2 meters. The root neck of the seedling is deepened by 5–6 cm. After compacting the soil in the hole, a circular furrow should be formed at a distance of 20 cm from it and watered a couple of times.

The area is mulched. Peat or humus is well suited for this. Shoots must be shortened to a height of up to 15 cm. Watering should be done 2 times a week. Spring planting is carried out in a similar way. Only the holes and the soil mixture are prepared in the fall. Organic fertilizers are added to the soil. Shortly before planting, fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus is very useful.

pruning

For the normal growth and development of currants, not only competent planting, cultivating the land in accordance with all the rules, watering, fertilizing, but also timely pruning is required. It is customary to carry out the so-called formative. As well as anti-aging removal of branches and sanitary pruning. Each procedure is carried out in certain time year, has its own characteristics and specific goals. Pruning is recommended for early spring. You can do all the manipulations in late autumn.

Red currant has a longer fruiting period than black currant. Therefore, pruning for the purpose of rejuvenation is not required so often. In the spring, the existing shoots should be shortened for each young annual seedling. Correctly cut them in half of the entire length. The grower should form a good and viable currant bush within 5 to 6 years. Usually, on each culture, it is customary to leave no more than 15 to 20 branches intact.

Starting from the age of 7, gardeners must carry out anti-aging pruning. Also, the procedure for sanitary pruning is advised to be carried out in the autumn, namely after leaf fall and fruiting.

reproduction

How to grow red currant? What is it combined with on the site? How to care for the crop correctly in order to reap a good harvest? All these questions concern beginner gardeners.

Breeding can be carried out by buying seedlings on the market. But many experienced gardeners prefer to propagate the crop on their own. This can be done with the help of layering, cuttings and dividing the bush.

You can get layering from a viable bush, whose age is from 3 to 5 years. You should wait for spring and loosen the soil under it, as well as apply the recommended fertilizers. 1-2-year-old shoots should be placed in grooves, the depth of which is normally about 10 cm. Reliable fasteners are usually carried out with metal hooks, and the middle part is covered with earth. When the shoots are up to 12 cm long, they should be hilled up, taking a break of several weeks.

In the summer months, sufficient watering and the creation of organic mulch are required. In autumn, the layers should be divided so that each has well-developed roots. After that, you can plant future currant bushes in a new place.

Material for cuttings is harvested in the fall. It will take shoots aged 1 year. The length of the handle is normally up to 20 cm, and the thickness is about 8 mm. They should be placed in a prepared box, where wet sand is poured. There they are no more than 3 months at a temperature of 2 - 3 degrees Celsius. Landing on the site after placing the cuttings for storage until the spring planting under the snow or a box of vegetables is carried out under plastic bottles or glass jars.

Be sure to observe a distance of 20 cm. It is necessary to compact and water the ground, create mulch from fine peat or humus. In September, cuttings are planted at the place chosen by the owner of the site.

If the division of the bush is chosen, the diseased, old, broken branches must be cut off. The bush needs to be dug up, divided into parts, the sections should be processed with crushed coal. Each division is placed in a hole. Then shorten to 20 cm, carry out abundant watering until the moment of engraftment.

Popular varieties

The cultivation of red currants is carried out for the purpose of subsequent use in fresh and for further processing. Among the varieties with large fruits are called Viksne, Fertodi, Ural beauty, Darnitsa, Ronda, Ilyinka, Ob sunset, Asora and others. For example, Viksne is a variety of Latvian selection, has an early ripening period. Allows you to get a crop of dark cherry berries with a pleasant sweet and sour taste. It has a high degree of drought and winter hardiness, good immunity. The yield is up to 7 kg per bush.

Varieties, on the bushes of which sweet berries ripen, are represented by sugar currant, Early sweet, Red Cross, Svetlana, Houghton's Castle. For example, Sugar is a sweet and fragrant berry. The variety requires pollinators for normal fruiting. A good variety is Natalie.

Early varieties are represented by the species Crystal, Pervenets, Victoria, Shchedraya, Serpentine, Early Sweet, Dutch Red, Laturnais, Chulkovskaya, Konstantinovskaya, Rachnovskaya. Victoria, for example, is a high yielding variety. Berries are universal in terms of application, they also have excellent taste characteristics.

Among the medium varieties of currants, it is worth mentioning Versailles red, Buzhanskaya, Rose, Gazelle, Red Andreichenko, Hero, Purple, Reiby Castle, Gonduin, Star of the North, Polyana, Natalie, Vika, Niva, Samburskaya, Beloved. Versailles red is self-fertile and large-fruited variety. Red berries are covered with a dense skin. Has a universal meaning.

Late varieties are Valentinovka, Osipovskaya, Marmeladnitsa, Lapland, Dutch Red, Spark, Oryol Star, Dana, Orlovchanka, Gift of Summer, Rosita, Ural Dawns. For example, Valentinovka is a self-fertile and high-yielding variety that is immune to powdery mildew. The berries are endowed with medium sizes, have a piquant sourness and gelling qualities.

Diseases and pests

Redcurrant is sometimes susceptible to such well-known and characteristic diseases for berry bushes as white spotting, anthracnose, terry, European powdery mildew, striped mosaic, goblet or columnar rust, gray rot, drying of shoots. In the fight against these ailments, such drugs as Ftalan, Topsin M, Kaptan, Homycin, Fundazol, Kuprozan, and also Bordeaux mixture and colloidal sulfur. In the presence of mosaic and terry treatment is not carried out. And, unfortunately, you have to get rid of branches and inflorescences https://ferma-ru.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=11098&action=edit.

The average height of an adult red currant plant is one and a half meters. Relatively rare are shorter and taller redcurrant bushes. Shoots have a gray or yellowish color. The wood is greenish in color with a lighter heartwood.

Leaves are three- or five-lobed type, with serrated edges. Their surface is smooth and shiny. The underside of the leaves is lighter in color. Vein pubescence may be present. The flowers are small, yellow-green or reddish-brown, collected in brushes. The peak of flowering is in May. The fruits are represented by juicy berries collected in bunches.

When choosing a variety of red currant for cultivation in home gardening, it should be remembered that the winter hardiness of the varieties depends on the origin of the planting material, the conditions for preparing the berry plant for winter, as well as the level of differentiation of the kidney rudiments and features weather conditions in the growing area.

Planting seedlings

Currently under conditions Agriculture about seventy varieties of such a berry crop as red currant are actively cultivated. The use of planting material with a closed root system allows you to plant a plant in a permanent place with virtually no time limit.

Most often, planting a berry crop is carried out in spring or autumn. In the southern regions, preference should be given to autumn planting, and in the northern regions, berry crops planted in spring take root best. For planting in the Moscow region and the middle zone of our country, you can choose both the early spring period and the first decade of autumn.

When choosing a seedling of red currant, it is necessary to pay attention Special attention to the state and appearance the root system of a berry crop, which must be powerful and well developed, without the presence of rotten or frostbite in winter period roots. A slight exfoliation of the bark on the branches is not critical.

If, after the acquisition and until the moment of planting the berry bushes, a sufficiently long storage is expected, then the planting material should be without fail place in a dark and cool place. Plants with an open root system are less resistant to adverse external influences, therefore, it is important to pre-wrap their roots with a damp cloth or make a temporary dig into the ground. During transportation, it is necessary to protect the branches and root system from damage and breakage.

How to plant red currants (video)

Landing layering

You can start breeding by layering in early spring. For this purpose, a thorough loosening of the soil is required around the bush chosen for propagation. After loosening, under the strongest and well-developed young shoots, grooves should be dug 6-8 cm deep and long according to the size of the bending branch. Selected shoots must be laid in prepared furrows and fixed on the soil with special hooks-studs. The apical part of the shoots should remain above the soil surface.

After the height of the resulting shoots of red currant reaches 10-12 cm, they should be piled up to the top. Adding soil to the shoots should be done several times a season as they grow and develop. The soil above and around the layers should not be compacted or dry out. In the last decade of September, it is necessary to cut off the pinned branches from the parent plant and carefully dig them out of the ground. The division of the layering is carried out according to the number of rooted shoots. Powerful and well-developed cuttings can be planted in a permanent place.

How and where to plant

In order to properly plant a berry crop with seedlings and increase survival rates, as well as to get a normally developing and highly productive red currant bush, it is necessary to correctly select a place for planting and thoroughly prepare the soil in a dedicated area. Redcurrant bushes are planted obliquely so that three buds remain above the soil and three more buds are buried in the ground.

Beginners and inexperienced gardeners are advised to use the step-by-step instructions for planting young plants, which will achieve high results with minimal cost time and effort.

Landing step by step instructions

For cultivation, it is recommended to choose areas with deep groundwater. A year before planting, a standard amount of compost or rotted manure should be applied to the soil.
Before planting, damaged or dry branches and roots should be removed from seedlings.
It is recommended to dip the root system in a "talker" of clay and warm water.
It is necessary to prepare a hole for the plant. Its standard dimensions are approximately 45 x 45 cm or 45 x 55 cm.

At the bottom of the planting pit, a mound of compost or rotted humus should be poured, and then a seedling should be installed there and its root system should be spread.
In the process of backfilling the root system with soil, the seedling should be gently shaken in order to prevent the appearance of air pockets at the roots of the berry crop.
Planting density indicators for berry crops depend on the type and varietal features plants. Spreading and tall varieties should be planted less often than plants with a compact crown shape. The average distance between planted bushes of red currant is about 1-1.5 m.
It is recommended to give preference to an inclined planting method, which will allow you to form a sprawling bush with a wide base as soon as possible.

If it is necessary to obtain stem-type currant bushes, it is recommended to plant a seedling without deepening, placing it vertically during planting. Having placed the seedlings, it is necessary to make a fairly abundant watering, and then be sure to mulch the soil around the plants with rotted foliage, humus or compost, which will protect the soil from rapid evaporation of moisture.

Further care

Redcurrant can be classified as a fairly unpretentious berry crops, due to which it is grown almost everywhere in our country. However, in order to obtain a good and annual yield, the plant needs competent care, which is based on tillage, watering, fertilizing and weed control. It is necessary to start caring for red currant bushes in early spring. The standard set of activities includes:

pruning, which is necessarily carried out before the stage of bud break;
thorough, but shallow loosening of the soil around the bushes;
removal from the trunk circles of all plant debris and weeds;
repair or installation of new supports to guide the growth of berry crops;
application of nitrogen-containing fertilizers at the rate of 45-50 g for each adult berry bush;
implementation of soil mulching in tree trunks with a mixture based on peat and well-rotted manure.

How to cut red currants (video)

Planted only once in your garden, red currants will delight with green foliage and lots of bright red berries hanging from branches in clusters for many years. This variety of currant, like its counterparts, is not at all demanding in care. The process of planting and caring for red currants is so simple that even a beginner in gardening can handle it.

In this article, we will consider the features of red currant, give a description of the most popular and sweet varieties of red currant. Let us note the most important aspects of the agricultural technology of growing this crop.

Features and description of red currant

Red currant or common currant is a small deciduous shrub that belongs to the Gooseberry family. Red and black currants, although they belong to the same genus, have a large number of differences. At the same time, representatives with red berries have a lot in common with white currants. The natural habitat of the red currant is the territory of Europe, Asia and Siberia. That's why climatic conditions Central Russia is just perfect for growing this healthy berry. In the wild, small and dense bushes of red currant can be found on forest edges or river banks, where they form entire thickets.

For the first time, planting of red currant began to be carried out in Holland in the 5th century. However, at that time this culture was used as ornamental shrub, which was used in landscape design. Later, people appreciated the taste and benefits of red currant berries and began to grow the plant for the purpose of harvesting. On the territory of Russia, red currant appeared only in the 15th century, but very quickly won the love of gardeners. Although today red currant is still very popular in Europe than ours.

Description of redcurrant:

Red currant is a high-yielding and early ripening crop, which is considered a perennial deciduous shrub.
Unlike blackcurrants, redcurrant bushes are much smaller and more compact. The shape of the redcurrant bush is slightly elongated from above and compressed from the sides.
This culture has a very powerful root system that penetrates deep into the ground. This allows the bush to stretch nutrients and produce a large number of shoots every year.
Young shoots of red currant are slightly yellowish, turning green with age. In general, a red currant bush can reach a height of about 100-200 cm.
A large number of leaves appear on the shoots of red currant in spring, which have the average size and differ in shape. Leaves can be whole, three-lobed and five-lobed. Arranged in order.
Above, the leaf plate is dark green in color with a smooth and shiny surface, below the color is slightly lighter and the surface is matte with slight pubescence.
The culture is distinguished by a large number of fruit buds, which subsequently give a rich harvest.
In the spring, nondescript flowers of a reddish-brown or greenish hue appear from the buds. Red currant flowers are collected in loose racemose inflorescences.
Red currant berries appear much later than black currant. Due to this, the plant is less likely to be exposed to frost.
To taste, the berries are sour and juicy, they can reach 1 cm in diameter. Beautiful hanging brushes form on the bush. The color may vary depending on the variety: red berries, dark red, light red, pink.
Red currant bushes are long-lived - in one place they can grow up to 35 years.
The berries of this crop have a large amount useful properties. They help to remove harmful substances from the body. Berries also contain many vitamins.

Variety of varieties of red currant

To date, breeders have bred great amount varieties of red currants that have different color and taste of berries, terms of their ripening and productivity. This culture most often blooms in central Russia in the second half of May, so the harvest can be obtained as early as June-July. There are currants of early, middle and late ripening, and a huge number of sweet varieties have been bred sweet currant and large varieties. Here is an example of the most popular and sought after varieties.

Large varieties of red currant

Red currant variety "Victoria". This variety has medium sized berries. The yield is high, the berries are suitable for fresh consumption and for harvesting.
Variety "Viksne". This variety of red currant was bred by Latvian breeders. From one bush you can get up to 7 kg of large dark cherry berries. The taste of the berries is sweet and sour. The advantage of this variety is its excellent winter hardiness and drought resistance, as well as good immunity to diseases and pests.
Variety "Fertodi". This plant gives a high yield of rounded berries of bright red color with a pleasant sweet and sour taste. The variety is resistant to diseases, it is frost-resistant. It was bred by Hungarian breeders.
Variety "Serpentine". The bush gives a high yield of large berries with a sweet and sour taste, which are collected in long beautiful brushes. The variety has good resistance to fungal diseases and frost.
Sort "Darnitsa". This variety belongs to the group of medium ripening. The berries are large, the weight of one can reach 1.5 grams. The color of the berries is dark red, which ripen in large quantities on the bush. The variety tolerates frost and drought well, it is very rarely affected by diseases.

Sweet varieties of red currant

Sort "Sugar". Delicious and fragrant berries ripen on a red currant bush of this variety, but they are notable for poor self-fertility. In order for the bush to be pollinated and give big harvest, you need to plant some other variety of red currant next to it, for example, Natalie.
Variety "Early sweet". Gives a good harvest of sweet light red berries. The variety requires careful care and good soil. It tolerates severe frosts.
Variety "Red Cross". This variety of red currant belongs to the group of varieties of medium ripening. Gives a crop of large light red berries with a pleasant dessert taste. The main problem of red currant Red Cross is a frequent defeat by anthracnose.

Early varieties of red currant

Variety "Firstborn". This variety of red currant was bred by Finnish breeders. Differs in good frost resistance. Redcurrant of this variety gives a big harvest sweet and sour berries medium size. From one bush, you can approximately collect up to 10 kg of berries. Bushes of such currants can be planted next to varieties that cannot self-pollinate.
Variety "Crystal". Berries of this variety can be of medium and large size. In color they are light, slightly yellowish.
Variety "Chulkovskaya". It's a variety domestic selection. Differs in good resistance to diseases and strong frosts.
Variety "Generous". A good crop of light pink berries ripens on a bush of this red currant. Fruit tastes sour.

In addition to the listed varieties, Serpentine, Dutch early, Early sweet, Rachnovskaya, Konstantinovskaya can be attributed to the early ones.

Medium varieties of red currant

Variety "Versailles Red". This variety is distinguished by a good harvest of large, dense berries of bright red color. Red currant "Versailles red" is a self-fertile plant.
Variety "Buzhanskaya". The variety was bred by Ukrainian breeders. It has a high yield and good resistance to various diseases. Large berries ripen on the bush, the weight of one can be about 1 gram.
Variety "Gazelle". The variety is distinguished by rather small berries with a pleasant taste. good traits This variety is considered resistant to fungal diseases and frost.
Sort "Natalie". This variety was obtained by crossing two different varieties. Medium-sized berries with a sweet and sour taste ripen on the bush.

You can also note other varieties of medium ripening: Hero, Star of the North, Polyana, Samburskaya, Beloved.

Late varieties of red currant

Variety "Dutch Red". The variety attracts with its unpretentiousness and resistance to frost and some diseases. This variety was bred by Dutch breeders. One bush produces a good crop of medium-sized berries with a reddish, slightly translucent skin.
Sort "Valentinovka". This is very winter-hardy variety, which is distinguished by its endurance and is rarely affected by powdery mildew. Berries of medium size with a sour taste.
Variety "Marmalade". One of the latest varieties that produces a good harvest of reddish-pink berries with a sour taste.

There are also many other varieties late ripening: Lapland, Osipovskaya, Pamyatnaya, Rosita, Ural Dawns.

Reproduction of red currant: the most common methods

Today at the spring and autumn fairs, as well as in various garden centers there is a huge selection of red currant seedlings that you can purchase. However, red currant propagation is not a difficult process, so you can try to breed this culture yourself. Red currant can only propagate vegetatively, namely cuttings, layering and dividing the bush. After carefully reading the nuances of using each method, you can determine for yourself best option how to plant red currants.

Reproduction of red currant cuttings

Propagation of red currant by cuttings is used much more often than other methods, especially by domestic gardeners. According to reviews, red currants grown from cuttings take root much faster and begin to bear fruit.
For this method You can use both lignified cuttings and green ones. However, it is better to give preference to lignified cuttings from annual shoots - they take root much faster.
It is necessary to harvest cuttings in the fall, around October-November. This way you can plant them out in the spring.
For planting material, it is necessary to choose healthy and strong annual shoots growing from the root itself on a red currant bush. Two-year and three-year branches are also suitable.
Cuttings are harvested in a certain size: the length of each should be 15-20 cm, and the thickness should be at least 8-9 mm.
After you have prepared planting material, you need to start its stratification and pre-planting processing. To do this, all cuttings are placed in a container with sand, which is pre-moistened well. The container must be placed in a cool room with a temperature of 2-3 degrees for about 3 months.
After this time, the cuttings are removed from the sand and placed under the snow until planting.
In early spring, after the snow melts, you can start planting cuttings. In nutrient soil, cuttings must be rooted at an angle. It is also important to observe the distance between all cuttings - it is at least 20 cm. Each cutting must be deepened so that only two buds remain on the surface.
After planting, the soil is well compacted and mulched with manure. Be sure to cover each cutting with a plastic bottle.
Already in September, rooted cuttings can be transplanted to a permanent place.

Reproduction of red currant by layering

This method is considered the simplest and the result can be obtained fairly quickly.
It is necessary to carry out reproduction in this way in early spring and redcurrant bushes that have reached 3 or more years are suitable for it.
In the spring, it is necessary to loosen the soil well around the currant bush, you can also add a little fertilizer so that the layers take root faster.
Make shallow, about 8 cm deep, grooves running from the very center of the bush.
After that, select strong and healthy annual shoots on the currant bush and carefully lay them in the furrows prepared in advance.
In order for the shoots not to return to their original place, they must be securely fixed on the surface.
Next, layering should be sprinkled with soil, leaving only the top.
In the process of rooting, layering should be watered regularly.
By autumn, strong young shoots grow on layering, which must be separated from the mother liquor and transplanted to a permanent place.

Reproduction of red currant by dividing the bush

This method is used less often than those listed above.
It is necessary to divide the currant bush in the spring, before the start of active vegetation.
First of all, cut off all weak and affected branches with a sharp pruner.
Next, carefully dig out the bush with a shovel, being careful not to damage the root system.
Take a sterile sharp knife and cut the bush into the required number of sections. At the same time, make sure that each honor has good roots and shoots.
It is important to immediately treat all places of cuts with charcoal.
After that, all delenki can be planted in a permanent place, deepening them a little more than the mother bush grew.

Preparation before planting red currant

Planting and caring for red currants is not difficult, but with the wrong preparation, you are unlikely to get a plant that will give a big harvest. It is important to purchase high-quality and healthy seedlings and find the most suitable place on your site after planting. And only after that you can start planting seedlings directly.

Stage 1. Selection of varieties and seedlings of red currant

The choice of a particular variety of red currant depends on your preferences. Consider the taste of berries, their yield, resistance to frost and disease. To get a crop throughout the season, you can purchase currant seedlings different terms maturation.
If you do not have the opportunity to independently engage in the propagation of red currants, seedlings can be purchased from familiar gardeners. So you will be sure of the final result.
Planting material can be bought at garden centers or specialized nurseries that breed plants. This way you can be sure that you are buying the exact variety you want.
When buying seedlings in a nursery, you can get competent and professional advice regarding the process of planting and caring for berry crops.
Before buying, carefully inspect the seedlings. root system should be well developed, individual roots should not break off and look dry. The upper part should be intact, but the main thing is to make sure that there are no signs of diseases and pests.

Stage 2. Choosing a place to plant red currants

The next step should be the most suitable place for this culture.
For this culture, it is important to choose a well-lit place where there is a lot of light for a long time. So you save the plant from damage by powdery mildew.
The site should not be blown by the winds, it is desirable that there is protection in the form of a wall or fence on the north side.
You should not plant red currant seedlings in lowlands and small depressions, where they most often stagnate ground water which this culture does not tolerate. Cold air is also present in the lowlands.
Currant bushes can be beautifully planted along a garden path or along a fence. In addition to a good harvest, you can get beautiful decoration your site.

Stage 3. Selection and preparation of soil for red currants

Red currants can grow in almost any soil with a moderate composition.
Do not plant seedlings in rocky and too clay areas.
An excessively swampy place where groundwater lingers is not suitable either.
The soil should be neutral and fertile.
It is recommended to prepare the soil for planting in a month, but weekly readiness is also allowed.
It is necessary to dig the selected area well, approximately on the bayonet of a shovel. Then loosen the soil well so that there are no large lumps in it.
If the soil in your area is poor, add rotted manure and wood ash during processing.

Red currant planting technology

Red currants can be planted in both autumn and spring. However, experienced gardeners still recommend doing an autumn planting.
About a week before planting seedlings, it is recommended to prepare planting pits. On a pre-prepared site, dig the required number of holes, the size of which should be approximately 40 cm deep and 50 cm in diameter. The distance between individual seedlings should eventually be 150-200 cm.
Mix the soil that you got from the pit with 8 kg of peat, 200 grams of superphosphate and some wood ash.
Next, pour part of the soil mixture into the bottom of the pit.
After a week, the soil in the planting pits will settle a little and after that you can start planting.
Lower the seedlings into the planting holes and fill them with the left soil mixture. When boarding, keep in mind that root neck should be deepened by about 5-8 cm.
When filling the soil, make sure that voids do not form near the roots.
AT trunk circle it is recommended to make a furrow and pour water into it several times.
After abundant watering, be sure to mulch the soil with peat or humus and cut off all the shoots, leaving only 2-3 buds.

Agrotechnics of growing red currant: secrets and nuances of care

Red currant is pretty unpretentious plant, however, to obtain a rich harvest of tasty and useful berries you should follow some rules and pay attention to seedlings. It is important to regularly trim the red currant, watering and top dressing. Also, the plant may periodically need help when signs of diseases or pests appear.

Watering red currant

Watering is an important part of care. Immediately after planting, young seedlings must be watered abundantly until they take root. It is important to water currant bushes in spring and autumn after harvest. At the same time, be careful not to overmoisten the soil, as this crop does not tolerate waterlogging. During the summer period, it is enough to water each currant bush 3 times. One bush usually takes about a couple of buckets of water so that the soil can be moistened by about 50 cm.

Loosening and mulching red currants

Immediately after the snow melts, the soil in the near-trunk circle must be well leveled and loosened in order to ensure the flow of oxygen to the roots. It is necessary to loosen approximately to a depth of 7-8 cm. For the entire season, about 3 loosening may be needed, which are most often carried out after watering. To avoid excessive evaporation of moisture, the soil in the trunk circle is mulched. For this, you can use peat or humus.

Red currant nutrition

In the first year after planting, red currant bushes do not need additional feeding.
The first feeding is carried out in April. For this, urea is used 10 grams per 1 sq. M.
The next fertilization should take place in June, when a manure solution must be applied under each bush.
During the summer, you need to process red currants with microelements. This is done by spraying. Can use 2.5 grams boric acid, 10 grams of manganese, 2 grams of copper sulfate, 3 grams of ammonium, dissolved in 10 liters of water.
The last top dressing is carried out in the fall after harvest. Under each bush, 10 kg of humus, 100 grams of superphosphate and 50 grams of potassium must be added.

Red currant pruning

Red currant pruning is considered milestone caring for this culture.
Shaping, sanitary and rejuvenating pruning is used.
It is best to prune red currants in spring or late autumn.
In the first year of a seedling's life, it is necessary to cut off all the shoots by half. This will contribute to the formation of a beautiful bush.
Up to 5 years, only 15-20 shoots should be left in currant bushes, since this plant does not like shading.
After 5 years of age, it is necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning, during which all old shoots are removed under the root and the growth of zero shoots is regulated.
In autumn, it is important to carry out sanitary pruning, during which all diseased, broken, protruding shoots are cut off.

Control of diseases and pests of red currant

To prevent damage to plants, it is necessary to periodically spray the bushes. To do this, use a solution of copper sulfate in early spring and after harvest. Also used during active flowering and fruit formation Karbofos.

Diseases of red currant:

Anthracnose. A fungal disease that affects the leaves of a plant. To combat it, Bordeaux liquid or special fungicides are used.
Powdery mildew. To combat this disease, you can also use special fungicides, for example, Fundazol or captan.
Rust. It is also a fungal disease that can be treated with drugs.
Terry. This disease is much more serious and cannot be cured. Therefore, when signs appear (narrow petals purple hue, lack of ovaries) it is necessary to remove the entire bush.

Red currant pests:

The spider mite infects currant leaves and covers them with cobwebs. To combat it, you can use special insecticides, for example, Karbofos.
Leaf gall. Small mosquitoes that also damage currant leaves. You can fight them with the help of special drugs.
Ognevka. The caterpillars of this butterfly feed on berries, having previously entangled the brushes with cobwebs. To get rid of this pest, you can use Karbofos, Aktellik, Aktara.
Gooseberry moth, kidney moth, glass case, aphid can also appear on currant bushes. To combat them, you must use insecticides according to the instructions.

Photo of red currant

Red currant is one of the most frequent inhabitants of the garden, which brings a large harvest of tasty and healthy berries. To grow a storehouse of vitamins and nutrients on your site, carefully study the nuances of planting and caring for currants and proceed to planting.