How to grow strawberries - the secrets to getting an excellent harvest at minimal cost

Best time for planting strawberries - this is the end of July. After all, next year there will be a harvest. But what if it didn’t work out in the summer? What is needed for this and how to properly land? Let's find out!

Determine the landing site

To grow strawberries, you need to know what type of soil is on your land.

plot. The yield of the berry will depend on this. If the site has peat or light gray soil, then strawberries do not bear fruit very much. Best Harvest will be on dark gray forest or chernozem soils.

The surface must be flat or sloping. Strawberries should not be planted in low-lying areas, as cold will accumulate and the risk that the plant will be exposed to diseases will increase. Also, the harvest will be late. Don't grow strawberries steep slopes for the same reasons. The place for growing must be protected from the winds, because the root system can freeze. All these nuances need to be clarified before planting strawberries in the spring.

Site preparation and planting

The place where it is planned to plant the berry needs to be sprinkled with humus, dug up and cultivated to a depth of 12-15 cm. The earth should settle one day. It is also worth checking the soil for pests: wireworm and Maybug. If there are any, then alkaloid lupine is planted in the soil or watered with an ammonia solution. An area that has been very littered with weeds is best treated chemical, such as the Roundup tool.

It is important to choose good strawberry seedlings for a high yield. The best option is frigo plants - these are seedlings that were dug up in the fall and stored at a low temperature during the winter. Also, for planting strawberries, you need to use sorted seedlings. Pay special attention to root system. It should be strong and well developed, up to 10 cm long.

Strawberries are often grown in the country. This is a great place to tinker with seedlings. It is always a pleasure to pamper relatives and friends with a juicy berry.

Landing

Planting strawberry seedlings in early spring or in autumn. This is the most auspicious time. First, let's figure out how to plant strawberries in the spring. First, you need to plan the area. Between rows, a distance of 80-90 cm should be made, and between bushes - about 30 cm. Secondly, it is worth considering the depth of the holes, making them no more than 20 cm. Thirdly, choose a favorable day and time. Cloudy or evening weather is best.

The more you know about how to plant strawberry seedlings, the less hassle the process of caring for and growing a plant will bring. It is necessary not to forget to water the seedlings and sprinkle the surface of the site with dry earth so that a crust does not form. The yield and juiciness of the berries will depend on when and how to plant strawberries in the spring. It is necessary to do this with the beginning of field work, if you delay with the deadlines, then most of the plants will simply die. And the remaining seedlings will develop poorly.

Planting seeds

seedling care

A folk saying says: “What you sow, you will reap!”, but in our case,

little sowing. Strawberries are a capricious berry that requires regular attention and care. But the main points are watering and weeding.

In the summer, moisture evaporates quickly, so it is better to mulch the beds. Dry grass, sawdust or hay are quite suitable. This approach will not only help preserve moisture, but also protect the berries from rot. When strawberries bloom, they need to be watered from a watering can, and during the harvest period - under a bush. Water should not be cold, a temperature of 18-20 degrees is ideal. During prolonged rains, it is advisable to cover the plant with a film.

For strawberries, weeds are not terrible enemies (after all, this is But if you want to get large and juicy fruits, then you need to do weeding.

Strawberries constantly have old red leaves that need to be removed. This helps to rejuvenate the plant. Sometimes, for this purpose, after the end of the harvest, all the foliage is mowed. What for? To get rid of pests and infections.

Strawberry bushes are fertilized, but here you need to be careful not to overdo it with frequency and dose. It is best to use ashes for top dressing or apply a small amount of manure during the initial planting.

Pros and cons of planting strawberries under the film

Growing any plant is always a laborious process. Everyone wants to keep costs to a minimum, and get the maximum yield. For strawberries, the use of a mulching film is suitable. This material is inexpensive and easy to use. But often people simply do not know how to plant strawberries under the film. This is not difficult, but the method has several disadvantages. So let's get it right. On the site where the seedlings will grow, you need to spread a black plastic film. Then cuts are made into which strawberry bushes are planted. The film helps in and allows you to get an earlier harvest.

But each material has its drawbacks. First, the film does not pass Fresh air, which in summer contributes to overheating of the soil. Secondly, it has a short service life, it lasts a maximum of two seasons. Thirdly, the film is not intended for cold weather. At the slightest frost, heating is required, as condensation forms inside, which turns into ice.

All the work on growing strawberries seems like a trifle when you take a juicy berry in your hands. Its aroma and taste do not leave anyone indifferent.

Strawberries have an unforgettable taste and aroma, thanks to which both adults and children love it. This berry is very popular, but its price is quite high, and it is much more profitable to grow strawberries on your own right at their summer cottage.

Is it possible to grow strawberries in the country?

Independent cultivation of strawberries in a summer cottage is very painstaking, but at the same time a simple task. With the correct implementation of all the rules, the plant will actively bear fruit and bring a good harvest.

The complexity of growing lies in the fact that when cultivating strawberries, you will have to spend a lot of effort on performing such ordinary actions as watering and weeding.

You can grow this berry in the open field in the garden both in the southern and northern latitudes and in Siberia. The key to success in this endeavor will be correct selection of varieties which must be adapted to the specific area. The modern market has to offer great amount types of strawberries. All of them differ from each other according to such criteria as climatic resistance, ripening period, size and taste of fruits, etc.

If you are going to plant strawberries in your country house, you also need to make sure that she feels comfortable. To do this, the berries are placed in a light, sandy or loamy soil.

The key to a good harvest is the right choice of variety.

Popular species and good varieties for Siberia

For beginners, it is best to focus on well-known varieties that have already proven themselves:

Darenka- this early ripe variety boasts immunity to fungal diseases and pests. Also, this plant tolerates winter temperatures and brings a lot of crops. Berries of medium size (15-20 grams) have the shape of a blunt cone. The taste is pleasant, sweet and sour;
Kama- this variety has excellent resistance to frost and drought. There is a susceptibility to infection with brown or white spotting. Large fruits, weighing 25-35 grams, are made in the form of a rounded rhombus, the presence of ribbing is characteristic. When fully ripe, the skin takes on a maroon hue. The pulp is juicy, tender and sweet and sour;
Masha- a variety of Russian selection is perfectly adapted to the conditions of the middle lane. The plant is not afraid of diseases and return frosts, but at the same time brings a good harvest. The leaves on the bushes are large, and the flower stalks are powerful and stable. Oblong, bright red berries have a pleasant taste and strawberry aroma;
Queen Elizabeth- a feature of the remontant variety will be its large and very sweet fruits. The plant can tolerate severe frosts, return frosts, attacks of insects and diseases. The yield is always high level. The main disadvantage of the variety will be that it does not form a mustache, so it will have to be propagated using seeds.

Proper planting on a garden plot in the open field - step by step instructions

When planting strawberries in a summer cottage, it is first necessary decide on deadlines. The gardener has several options for the development of events:

spring (April) - a bed for strawberries must be prepared in the fall of the previous season;
summer (July 20-25) - the garden is also prepared in the fall;
autumn (September) - in this case, the soil for plants is prepared 2-3 weeks before the work.

Once the deadlines are determined, you can proceed to the formation of beds. The place where they will be located must meet the following requirements:

The soil must be sandy or loamy, necessarily breathable and nourishing;
The optimum level of acidity should be within 5.5-6.5 Ph. In the event that the indicator is lowered, it can be raised by making dolomite flour. It is worth remembering that such work can only be carried out in the fall;
Places of accumulation of precipitation and melt water are not suitable for growing strawberries, because in this case there is a high risk of rotting of the root system;
Groundwater should be located at a depth equal to 70-80 centimeters;
Experienced gardeners recommend placing strawberries separately from all other garden crops;
Legumes and cereals or greens are considered the best predecessors of strawberries. You should not plant in those places where tomatoes or potatoes grew before;
In order for the berries to ripen, to be juicy and sugary, the planting site must be sunny.

The place for planting strawberries must be sunny

The way the beds are formed will depend on the chosen growing location. In the event that the site is located on a hill and is well lit by sunlight, it is enough to build a bulk bed with a height of 10 centimeters. With a high location of groundwater, this figure increases. up to 35-40 centimeters.

The optimal landing width is 95-100 centimeters.

In order to make the soil more fertile for one square meter soils apply the following fertilizers:

8 kilograms of compost;
100 grams of superphosphate;
30 grams of potassium salt.

The next step is to select healthy seedlings:

they must be free of signs of mechanical damage and disease;
planting material with the most powerful and branched roots takes root best of all;
socket must be from 3-4 leaves.

Seedlings must be of high quality and without damage.

Before planting, it is necessary to carefully dig the soil to a depth of 25-30 centimeters.

Doing this will help form a nutritional and water regime. Also, during the digging, you can detect and destroy a variety of pests.

Once preparatory work will be completed, you can start planting plants:

The best time for landing is considered to be early morning or late evening on a cloudy day;
The standard planting pattern says that the distance between the rows is equal to 60-70 centimeters, and between individual plants 20-25 centimeters;
The hole is dug deep 13-15 centimeters;
When immersing the seedling in the ground, it is necessary to ensure that root neck was level with the ground. Otherwise, the plant will soon die;
The last step will be abundant watering and mulching of plantings.

Planting and growing strawberries is a fairly simple process, the main thing is to follow all the rules and carry out preparatory activities in time.

Technology and secrets of strawberry care for a good harvest

Watering

Strawberry care includes many aspects. There are no technologies and secrets for harvesting. Enough to observe step by step instructions for planting and breeding, plant within a reasonable time and care properly. First of all, it is necessary water plants properly, that is, waterlogging and drying of the soil should not be allowed.

Experienced gardeners recommend watering strawberries after planting and flowering, while picking berries, in late summer and early autumn. 1 liter will be spent on one bush warm water. Immediately after watering, plantings are mulched with a 7-8 cm layer of humus.

Fertilizers and top dressings

Fertilize strawberries in accordance with the following scheme:

In early spring, during the formation of leaves and after harvesting, the bushes are fertilized with nitrogen-containing fertilizers;
In late August-early September, fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is carried out;
Before flowering and after harvesting, plantings are fertilized with a solution of manure, humus or wood ash.

Complex fertilizer for strawberries

In no case should strawberries be fed with fertilizers that include chlorine in their composition.

Protection from diseases and pests

Strawberry beds are necessary regularly weed and loosen. This procedure will be a good prevention of fungal diseases.

In the event that gray rot still struck the plant, in order to get rid of it before flowering, plantings are watered with a solution of iodine, a teaspoon of which is diluted in 10 liters of water. The procedure is repeated after 7-10 days.

To prevent diseases during flowering and after harvesting, the following treatments are carried out:

fungal diseases - "Fitosporin";
spotting and gray rot - copper oxychloride;
powdery mildew - 2 tablespoons of potassium permanganate, diluted in 10 liters of water.

Whiskers removal contributes to a larger harvest

During the entire growing season from the bushes remove mustache, this will contribute to the formation of a larger and more attractive crop. After picking the berries, it is necessary to cut off the entire green part of the plants, leaving only a few lower leaves.

Every 3-4 years of planting must be updated.

Preparing for winter

Growing strawberries in areas with a harsh and unpredictable climate, care should be taken to protect plants for the winter. In order for the shrub to endure cold temperatures well, choose climate-resistant varieties.

To prepare the plant for winter watered abundantly and mulched with straw. With the onset of the first frosts, plantings are covered with spruce branches, film, agrofiber or any other improvised means. If the winter is not snowy, then you need to additionally throw snow on the ridges.

In preparation for winter, strawberries are mulched with straw

The subtleties of growing sweet and fragrant berries

In order to grow a crop of tasty and juicy berries, you need to follow some rules:

Best to pick zoned and tested varieties, care for which will not bring any special difficulties;
To get a good harvest, it is very important to adhere to the agricultural technology of growing strawberries, namely, to follow the rules of the neighborhood, to deliberately approach the place where the plant grows and planting. It is also very important to correctly timely feed and water bushes;
Weeds take a lot of nutrients from strawberries, so they need to be removed as soon as possible;
Effective and timely disease control will help maintain the quality and quantity of the crop;
Whiskers deplete the plant, which causes the berries to become smaller and the total yield drops. To maintain fruiting, it is recommended regularly remove shoots strawberries.

Growing strawberries on your own plot is the dream of almost every gardener. In order to bring it to life, it is necessary to adhere to all the rules for cultivating a plant and not neglect the advice of experienced gardeners.

Garden strawberries are a variety of wild strawberries. She has more large leaves and berries rich in vitamins and minerals. The culture propagates by seeds and rosettes. The plant takes root in any soil, but the size of the fruit depends on the quality of the soil and the amount of nutrients. You can plant strawberries in the middle or late spring, as well as in autumn. In order for the culture to quickly take root and not die in the winter, you need to follow a few rules.

Planting material

A simple way to propagate domesticated strawberries is mustache seedlings. In summer, shoots form at the plant. Rosettes are sprinkled with a substrate and watered regularly so that they take root. Closer to autumn, the workpiece is separated from the mother bush with sharp scissors or a knife. Seedlings are dug up and inspected, healthy specimens are selected. Viable blanks have white and elastic roots, a well-developed core and at least 3-4 leaves. Deformed and sluggish sockets are thrown away; they will not survive the winter. Roots strong seedlings shorten, leaving 6–7 cm. The shoots are soaked in water or solutions that stimulate growth before planting.

If the strawberry does not let a mustache, you can propagate it by dividing the bush. Choose the largest and densest varieties and dig. The root system is carefully cleaned of an earthen clod and cut into 2-3 parts with a sharp knife. Each blank must have a core and full leaves, at least 4 pieces.

Most hard way reproduction - seeds. Planting material is prepared independently. Select large fruits and wait until they ripen. Soft berries of a rich red hue are kneaded and passed through a sieve, separating the pulp from the seeds. The seeds are transferred to a colander lined with gauze, washed with water. Planting material is sown in prepared pots or open ground. In the spring, seedlings appear, which must be carefully looked after. Fortified sockets are dug up and seated. They give a harvest in a year.

how to grow watermelons outdoors

Soil preparation

colorado potato beetle;
nematodes;
wireworm.

In the spring, they wake up and begin to actively multiply, destroying the root system of domesticated strawberries. Strawberries do well in soil that used to grow marigolds, cereals, onions or garlic, carrots, beets or radishes.

Choose plots located on the southeast side of the garden. It is ideal if trees grow next to the strawberries, which will create a shadow and cover the delicate foliage from straight lines. sun rays. Strawberries give a rich harvest if they grow in black soil or dark gray forest soil. The culture likes loamy and sandy soil. The berries will be small and sour if the owner of the cottage has chosen a sod-podzolic or light gray substrate located in a lowland. Strawberries do not take root in areas with too wet soil, which is constantly flooded.

The earth before planting the crop is dug up and carefully inspected. If beetles or eggs are found in the substrate, the soil must be treated with ammonia water. The solution destroys larvae and spores of fungal diseases. Alkaloid lupine can drive away pests. The selected area is sown with a plant, and after a year they dig it out and replace the culture with strawberries.

Areas with a lot of weeds are watered with a Roundal solution. For 1 ha, take 2 liters of the drug. The tool copes with perennial plants that are firmly rooted, and destroys weed seeds.

The substrate is enriched with humus and wood ash 2–3 weeks before planting strawberry bushes. You can use compost or peat. Fresh manure is prohibited, the component produces a lot of nitrogen, which stimulates the growth of green mass, but inhibits the formation of buds.

Fertilizer is abundantly sprinkled with beds and dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet. The site is leveled with a rake and left for 3 weeks. To get a good harvest, it is recommended to supplement the compost with potassium compounds and superphosphate. For 1 m 20 g of the first and 40 g of the second additive are taken. With increased soil acidity, dolomitic lime is used, approximately 250–300 g.

Strawberries are transferred to new beds every 2-4 years. The land in which strawberries grew is recommended to be sown with grain or onion crops. They help the soil recover and absorb nutrients. Strawberries can be returned to the old site after 3-4 years. This is how long it will take the substrate to be enriched with micronutrients.

how to grow remontant raspberry varieties

good time

Domesticated strawberries are planted in spring or autumn. In summer the air temperature is too high. The soil dries out quickly, do not even help frequent watering. A culture deprived of water wilts and dies.

In spring, strawberry seedlings are planted at the end of April or May, when the earth warms up to a depth of 5–6 cm. In autumn, strawberries are prepared for propagation in September. Some summer residents begin planting crops in the last days of August. Autumn seedlings have time to take root and take root over the winter, so the harvest is already harvested on next year.

Preparation and landing methods

Sockets are soaked in solution before planting blue vitriol. The drug is mixed with baking soda in a ratio of 1 to 6. The workpiece is diluted with water: 10 liters of liquid are taken for 30 g of the composition. Copper sulfate disinfects seedlings and protects against fungal diseases.

Sockets dug out of the ground are sent to a cellar or basement for 12–24 hours. The root system is dipped in a mash of orange clay. Mix 5 kg of the dry component with water to get a creamy mass. The workpiece is insisted for several hours, and then smeared with orange paste strawberries. The roots are also wrapped in wet paper so that the shoots do not lose moisture. Seedlings protected from drying out can be stored for several days.

Strawberries are planted in the evening, choose a cloudy day. Well, if it rains a little. There are 4 common landing methods:

carpet;
nests;
separate bushes;
rows.

The first option is suitable for people who rarely come to the country. The tendrils that form in strawberry bushes do not break off, but allow them to take root. The culture gradually grows and captures the site. A special microclimate is created, and a layer of natural mulch is formed on the ground. Strawberries planted with the carpet method rarely need to be watered and fertilized. Weeds do not grow on a plot with strawberries. The earth is rarely loosened, mainly in autumn and spring.

The carpet method has the only drawback. Due to the large number of whiskers and rosettes, the berries gradually become smaller.

Summer residents who want to get large fruits choose the method of planting in separate bushes. Between the beds, a distance of 45–60 cm is observed. Strawberry whiskers are regularly cut off so that the plants do not intertwine with each other. The artisanal method is complex and time-consuming. You often have to loosen and mulch the soil with straw, fertilize and water the beds, and fight weeds.

Thanks to the artisanal method, strawberries develop and bear fruit intensively, and the likelihood of fungal diseases is reduced, because each plant is ventilated.

In order to transplant strawberries not after 2–3 years, but after 5–6 years, summer residents divide the plot into rows. 15–25 cm recede between the pits. The row spacing is 40 cm. The method practically does not differ from the artisanal one. Mustaches are torn off from strawberries, row-spacings are regularly weeded, plants are watered and mulched.

A rich harvest is obtained by planting strawberries in nests. The largest and fluffiest bush will become the core, which is surrounded by other plants. Form a hexagon. The distance between the central and side points is 5–6 cm.

With this method, you will need a lot of planting material. A distance of 25–30 cm is observed between the nests. The method provides a rich harvest.

how to grow celery in the garden

Modern options

Summer residents who are tired of fighting weeds are advised to pay attention to non-woven material. The invention is called "Spunbond". The dense black material allows air to pass through and retains moisture in the soil, creates a favorable microclimate for the development of strawberries, but protects against pests.

Summer residents using Spunbond plant strawberries in rows. The earth is plentifully watered before work. In dry soil, strawberries do not take root well. At a distance of 55–60 cm, grooves are dug, the substrate is covered with non-woven material and fixed with stones or boards. In a dense blank, cross-shaped incisions with a diameter of 5–6 cm are made. Holes are formed by hand, into which seedlings of strawberries are placed. The root system is straightened so that the shoots look down and a little to the side, sprinkled with earth, leaving the core on the surface. The corners of the non-woven fabric are gently spread to cover the base of the strawberry. Outside, only the leaves remain.

In a similar way, strawberries are planted without non-woven material. The wells are abundantly moistened, straighten the root system and sprinkled with a wet substrate. Seedlings are watered abundantly so that they take root better. Topped with fresh straw. Thanks to mulching, moisture is retained in the soil longer, and the roots do not overheat and do not freeze.

Tip: The ammonia solution in which sockets are soaked to prevent fungal infections can be replaced with garlic water. The tool is prepared from 2-3 crushed cloves and 1 liter of liquid base.

If the summer cottage is small and you need to save space, it is recommended to build a pyramid from old tires or boxes. The height of the structure can reach 10 m. The containers are filled with a nutrient mixture, which includes peat, soddy soil and humus. To make the substrate looser, a little sand is added to it.

The distance between the bushes in containers is 15–20 cm. The volume of land for the root system is 1.5 liters. In winter, the structure is dismantled, and the components are buried in the ground and mulched with fallen leaves. In the spring, during the period of frost, the containers are covered with a film or non-woven material.

how to grow tomato seedlings

Growing seedlings in early spring

Summer residents who want to harvest in May or June build mini-greenhouses for strawberries. The earth is enriched with fertilizers, dug up, and after 3 weeks beds are formed. They make small arcs of wire with a radius of 50-60 cm, set at a distance of 1 m.

The covering material is fixed on the frame with a jute rope. One side of the film is pressed to the ground with iron slats or stones, the other is left free to make it convenient to plant strawberries and take care of the crop. The ends of translucent polyethylene are tied with ropes and fixed with pegs, and then dug in with earth. In a makeshift greenhouse it will be warm and humid. The film attracts sunlight, retains water and protects against weeds.

A thermometer is attached to the inner wall of the greenhouse. If the thermometer shows +25 or higher, the free edge of the film is slightly opened and the greenhouse is ventilated. Strawberries love warmth, but because of the heat, they become weak and sick.

The greenhouse is ventilated on sunny days, and when the bushes bloom, the covering material is removed for the whole day, and returned to its place in the evening to protect the seedlings from frost. The film is completely removed after the formation of berries.

In the early morning before the onset of heat, the culture is watered with heated water. You can’t cold, otherwise the strawberries will get sick. The beds are moistened once a week. The earth is periodically loosened, removing weeds and dried bushes. In autumn, strawberries grown in a greenhouse are covered with a mixture of fallen leaves, straw and spruce branches. Before mulching, the soil is enriched with peat and compost.

how to freeze strawberries for the winter

Seedling from seed

Hybrid varieties of strawberries are propagated by rosettes and dividing the bush. Other varieties can be obtained from seeds. Growing seedlings is easy. You will need a container with a depth of 10–15 cm. The container is half filled with a substrate for seedlings, the soil is watered abundantly.

Small grooves or depressions are made in the ground with a toothpick at a distance of 5–6 cm. Seeds are laid out in the pits, they are not sprinkled with soil. The container is covered with glass and taken to a warm room. A container with young shoots is placed on a lighted window. The transparent cover is removed so that the seedlings breathe.

Seedlings with 2 true leaves dive into separate pots. Fertilizers for strawberries are applied to the soil every 2 weeks. Grown up and strengthened bushes are planted in open ground in spring or autumn.

Care

Strawberry beds are advised to be surrounded by plants that repel pests. Slugs do not like the smell of parsley, Colorado potato beetles and other insects do not like garlic, radishes, marigolds, onions, sage and spinach. Pests are repelled by beans and lettuce, as well as cabbage and beets.

In bushes planted in spring, tendrils and inflorescences are removed in the first year. They prevent the plant from taking root and getting stronger. 15 days after planting, the ground is fertilized with mineral or organic supplements. AT flower shops sell biohumus. At home, fertilizer is prepared from fermented grass or bird droppings. The workpiece is soaked in water and insisted for several days. The concentrated solution is diluted and added to the substrate after weeding and abundant watering.

The ground around the strawberry bushes needs to be mulched. The soil is sprinkled with pine or spruce needles. The aroma of pine needles repels the bear, the Colorado potato beetle and other pests. Spruce needles are replaced with straw. The workpiece is first soaked in water and spread in a thin layer on a film or sheet of iron, left in the sun. Waiting for weed seeds to germinate. Clean and dry straw is scattered between the rows and under the bushes. Hay or dried grass is used in a similar way.

Garden strawberries are watered from a watering can 2-3 times a week. The hose jet is too strong and can damage leaves and heartwood. The watering can is replaced with sprayers: fan-shaped, swinging, circular or rotary. Strawberries will also like drip irrigation. The main thing is that the water is warm and settled, without impurities of heavy metals.

You can plant remontant strawberries in spring and autumn. The land before garden work is enriched with fertilizers, and then mulched with straw or coniferous needles. Young strawberry seedlings are watered and regularly fertilized, protected from cold and pests, and in the first year, tendrils and inflorescences are plucked. Thanks to this, the culture quickly takes root and adapts to new conditions.

how to make strawberry jam

Video: proper planting of strawberries

Planting and growing strawberries in the area next to your house or cottage is not so difficult.

Even a beginner who is not too well versed in the intricacies of fruit growing will cope with this task.

Having become acquainted with a few general rules for growing strawberries, you can easily get a good harvest of this tasty and vitamin-rich berry.

Preparatory activities

Many novice gardeners, out of inexperience, believe that it is enough just to stick a strawberry seedling into the ground.

Of course, something will grow in this case. However, to get a good harvest, preparation is necessary, including the following items:

Choice of time for disembarkation. There are two options: plant either in spring or autumn. When deciding in favor of one of these two options, special attention should be paid to climatic characteristics.

So, spring landing is recommended if the area is characterized by cold winters with a small amount of snow falling. In a different scenario, planting is usually done in the autumn period. Spring planting is done quite early, in late April - early May.

The main condition is completely thawed soil. You should not rush too much, because fragile seedlings can die in the event of frost.

Autumn planting is carried out from late July to early September. It is important to take into account the abundance of precipitation and air temperature: with a lack of falling moisture or too hot weather, seedlings may not survive.

Planting seedlings too late in the soil puts them in danger of dying from early frosts.

Choosing a place. It is preferable to plant strawberries on a flat area, and not on a slope. Especially dangerous are the southern slopes, which during snowmelt can be excessively waterlogged.

Good illumination and the exclusion of the danger of land flooding by flood waters are extremely important. In addition, the site must be protected from wind erosion. And remember that planting strawberries in a plot for 4 years in a row on the same plot significantly reduces its subsequent yield.

You should also pay attention to the type of soil. The following soils are ideal for growing strawberries: chernozem, loamy, sandy loam and dark gray forest. The preferred pH is about 5-6.5 and the occurrence of GW (groundwater) at a depth of about 50 cm.

Soil preparation. Before planting strawberries, the selected piece of land should be rid of stones, weeds and pests. While the first two enemies can be dealt with by manual cleaning, pests require a different type of control.

The following method is effective: in the spring, sow the area with a green manure plant, mow it at the end of summer and carry out additional processing with a special compound.

Seedling preparation. Not every seedling is suitable for planting soil. Ideal seedlings must have a fibrous root system with a main root diameter of at least 6 mm and a length of all roots of at least 7 cm.

Also, if the roots are too long, they need to be cut to the length indicated above. For planting, specimens with 4-5 leaves, white root hairs 3-4 cm long and an intact apical bud are selected.

Only after careful preparation has been carried out can one proceed to the direct cultivation of strawberries.

Ways to grow strawberries

The very procedure for placing seedlings in the ground is no less important than the preparation for this. There are several known ways to do this.

Carpet. The easiest way, as it does not require careful preparation. Principle of the method: Seedlings are planted on a flat area without removing the tendrils, as a result of which the strawberries grow in a natural way. A significant disadvantage: every year the berries become smaller.

Bush. The essence of the method: each bush is planted separately at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other, and the antennae are removed. It contributes better ventilation seedlings and facilitate their care. The result is large berries. Disadvantage: the complexity of the method.

Gnezdovoy. Seedlings are planted in groups, with one placed in the center and six around it. The distance between seedlings should be 6-8 cm, between nests - 30 cm, between rows - 40 cm. Advantage of the method: you can plant a large number of seedlings.

Private. The method is the most popular. Planting can be done in one or two rows in the garden.

The distance between the bushes is 20 cm, between the rows - 30 cm, between the centers of the beds (with a two-row version) - 70 cm.

Important! After planting seedlings in the ground, they need proper watering. It can be done in any way, as long as the plants have enough moisture.

What to do next?

As mentioned above, strawberries grow well in one area for no more than 4 years in a row.

Then a replacement with another crop is required to replenish the fertility of the soil. For this, onions, garlic and legumes are suitable. After them, you can plant strawberries again.

Photo how to grow strawberries

Strawberry in heart shape bowl

Garden strawberries (large-fruited) - the most common berry culture grown by amateur gardeners. People call it strawberries. In this article, in order not to introduce confusion, it is also called a strawberry and we will talk about planting strawberries in open ground.

Biological features of culture

Strawberry - evergreen with a shortened rhizome and a small stem that becomes woody some time after planting. It forms three types of shoots: horns, mustaches and peduncles.

Horns or rosettes are formed from vegetative buds in the lateral part of the stem. The apical kidney of the horn - "heart" - is red. The larger it is, the more yield the plant will give in the first year. As the bush grows, horns form higher and higher above the ground.
Whiskers are long lashes with which young plants can separate from the main bush. Mustaches of the 1st and 2nd orders are most suitable for obtaining planting material.
Peduncles are not suitable for planting material.

Diagram of a strawberry bush.

A feature of strawberries is their constant renewal.

Strawberry requirements for climatic factors

Berry is quite demanding on environmental conditions.

Temperature. Strawberries are quite winter-hardy; they can withstand temperatures down to -8-12°C without freezing. Under snow, it can tolerate frosts down to -35 ° C. Spring frosts can damage buds and flowers, but since the crop blooms extremely unevenly, the entire crop is never lost. In addition, the buds are more resistant to frost (-4-5°C) than the opened flowers, which can withstand temperatures as low as -2°C.
Light. The culture is photophilous, but is able to tolerate slight shading. It can be grown in rows young garden, however, under the crown of an adult tree in dense shade, the plants will produce small berries.
Moisture. Strawberries are demanding on moisture, can tolerate short-term flooding, but do not grow on waterlogged soils. Drying out has a very bad effect on the development of culture. Not only the yield of bushes decreases, but their growth and development also slows down.

Impact climatic factors on the yield of strawberries can be significantly weakened by proper agricultural technology.

Where is the best place to plant strawberries?

The best place for planting strawberries are well-lit areas with a flat surface, protected from strong winds. The soil should be loose, well-cultivated, cleared of weeds, especially malicious (wheatgrass, bindweed, thistle, thistle, gout). The occurrence of groundwater in the plot is at least 70 cm.

Lowlands where cold air accumulates are not suitable for planting strawberries. In such places, the crop ripens 8-12 days later.

Steep slopes are also unsuitable for planting, because when snow melts, the soil is washed out and plant roots are exposed.

A place for planting strawberries is chosen even and well lit.

Strawberries are grown on any soil, but medium loams are most preferred. With a close occurrence of groundwater, plants are cultivated on high ridges. Sandy soils are the least suitable for cultivation; plants on them suffer both from a low content of nutrients and from a lack of moisture. Before planting strawberries on such lands, they are cultivated.

Culture Precursors

garlic;
greens (parsley, dill, lettuce, cilantro, basil);
legumes;
root crops (carrots, beets);
all types of cabbage;
turnip, radish, radish;
bulbous flowers (tulips, daffodils), as well as marigolds.

But the best precursor is fertilized black or busy fallow. However, it is unlikely that gardeners can allow the land to be empty for a whole season on their already not very large plots.

Bad predecessors:

potatoes, tomatoes;
all pumpkin plants (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, melon, watermelon).

Bushes are especially strongly oppressed after potatoes. Strawberries do not tolerate root secretions of this crop.

How to prepare a bed for planting strawberries

The beds for planting are prepared in 1-2 months, the earth should settle down, settle down. Strawberries love loose fertile soils, so digging should be carried out as deep as possible: on weakly fertile soils by 18-20 cm, on chernozems - 25-30 cm.

We are preparing a ridge for planting garden strawberries.

Strawberries do not respond well to the direct application of fertilizers for planting, because they do not tolerate a high concentration of salts in the soil. Therefore, they are used either under the predecessor, or in the preparation of the beds. The applied fertilizers are buried deep so that they dissolve in the ground and turn into a form accessible to plants.

On loamy soils, a bucket of completely rotted manure, peat or compost is added per 1 m2. In the absence of organic fertilizers, use nitroammophoska or nitrophoska (2 tablespoons / m2).

When planting strawberries on sandy soils, increased doses of manure, compost or humus are added to the beds - 2-3 buckets / m2. You can make sod land and 3-4 kg of sawdust.

On heavy loams and clay soils use river sand with organic fertilizers. 3-4 kg of sand and 2-3 buckets of manure or compost are added per 1 m2. Fertilizers are thoroughly mixed with the ground and close up deeply.

Strawberries grow well in neutral and slightly acidic soils(pH 5.5-7.0). If the pH is below 5.5, then liming is carried out. It is better to apply dolomite or limestone flour, as their effect continues throughout the entire period of growing the crop in one place (4 years). Application rate 3-4 kg/m2.

Lime is not applied directly under strawberries, but is used 2-3 years before the laying of a plantation for previous crops. Lime can be replaced with ash, it acts much softer, it contains trace elements necessary for strawberry bushes. Ash is brought in for digging 2-3 cups / m2.

On alkaline soils, acidification of the site is carried out. To do this, use peat, sawdust, rotted coniferous litter (10 kg / m2). Their action is soft and slow, but long-lasting. If it is necessary to slightly acidify the earth, then physiologically acidic mineral fertilizers are used: ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate. Ash on highly alkaline soils should not be applied.

Selection of strawberry seedlings

When choosing seedlings, special attention is paid to the condition of the bushes. They should be fully formed with 3-5 leaves spread out. The absence of damage, spots, wrinkles on the leaves is an indicator of the health of the seedlings.

Only healthy seedlings are selected for planting.

Squat rosettes with a large pink or red central bud are considered the highest quality. The development of the strawberry bush and the harvest of the first year depend on its size. With a “heart” diameter of more than 20 mm, it is possible to get a crop of up to 300 g of berries in the first year. Bushes with long, elongated petioles and a green "heart" in the first year will give a very small crop or there will be no berries on them at all.

Choose strong healthy specimens, weak plants will not only be less productive, but they are more susceptible to diseases and pests. If only the worst plants remain, then it is better not to take anything at all than to buy obviously problematic bushes.

If strawberry seedlings are already blooming, then specimens with large flowers are chosen - in the future these are large berries. Don't buy seedlings small flowers, and even more so the one that has no buds at all.

When laying a new plantation, 3-5 plants of each variety are selected in order to subsequently receive planting material from them. The best option is to purchase strawberries of 3-4 varieties.

When buying seedlings with an open root system, special attention is paid to the roots. They should be light, at least 5 cm long. If the roots are dark, then the plant is weak and sick, it may not take root after planting.

The place of the growth point ("heart") should be thin. The thicker it is, the older the bush from which the outlet is taken. The berries on such plants are very small, and it gives a crop of only 1 year.

Planting strawberries in open ground

A strawberry plantation is formed gradually. The most thoughtful way of growing is to place rows of plants of different ages on the plot. Every year a new bed is laid, and the oldest strawberries are dug up. Then on the site it will be possible to gradually replace old plants with young strawberry bushes.

Strawberry seedlings of different ages.

Planting dates when it is better to plant strawberries

Planting time determines the size and quality of the first harvest. The main dates for planting strawberry bushes are spring, the second half of summer and autumn.

Spring planting time strongly depends on the region of cultivation and weather conditions. In the middle lane and in Siberia, it occurs in early-mid May, in the southern regions - mid-late April. The earlier the seedlings are planted, the greater the harvest will be next year. During the growing season, the bushes will get stronger and lay a large number flower buds.

The main disadvantage of spring planting strawberries is the lack of planting material. What is for sale is either rosettes obtained from old bushes or last year's latest mustaches. Neither one nor the other is a quality planting material. The horns of old bushes are not young seedlings, but the same old bush, divided into rosettes. There will be no harvest from such plants, no matter how well they are looked after.

Mustaches of the 5th-8th order are the weakest on the garland and in order to obtain berries they must be grown during the year.

Summer landing time is the most optimal. You can determine the most favorable landing time by the mustache. When mustaches of the 1st and 2nd orders appear, then it's time to plant seedlings. During the remaining time, the bushes will form a powerful root system and go into the winter fully prepared. Subject to the deadlines, the harvest of 1 year should be 100-150 g of berries per plant.

autumn term(September-October) is the worst in terms of getting berries for the next year. The bushes will have time to take root, but they will go into the winter poorly prepared, not fully formed, they will lay few flower buds, the harvest will be very small (20-30 g per bush).

In addition, such plants do not tolerate winter quite well: the percentage of loss can be very large. In the northern regions, up to half of the strawberry bushes sometimes freezes.

Autumn planting of strawberries is possible only when it is necessary to get a large number of mustaches for the next year. Then in the spring all flower stalks are removed from these plants, thereby stimulating the formation of as many whiskers as possible. In the first year, the bushes give the most powerful mustache, from which the best varietal plants are obtained.

It should be taken into account that early varieties at optimal time plantings give half the yield than medium and late - this is a feature of strawberries.

Seedling treatment before planting

Seedlings brought from the nursery are often infected with pests and diseases. To destroy pests, strawberries are heated in water at a temperature of 50 ° C, immersing the plant, together with the pot, entirely in water for 15-20 minutes. The procedure is repeated twice with an interval of 30-40 minutes.

Most pests die in hot water (mites, stem nematodes, root aphids, etc.).
To prevent diseases, seedlings are completely immersed for 5-7 minutes in a solution of copper sulfate or HOM (1 teaspoon) and table salt (3 tablespoons), diluted in 10 liters of water. Then it is rinsed with water and planted.

Strawberry Planting Schemes

There are several schemes for planting strawberries: compacted, 30 × 60, 40 × 60, 40 × 70.

Compact planting. Strawberries have a very clear pattern: the denser the planting of seedlings, the higher the first harvest. In dense planting, plants of late varieties are placed according to the scheme 20 × 60 cm (20-25 bushes / m2).

The aisles should not be compacted, because after the first picking of berries, the strawberries are thinned out. If this is not done, then next year it will give very few berries. After fruiting, every second bush is dug up and placed on a separate bed according to the 40 × 60 cm scheme. Compacted plantations for these bushes are no longer suitable, such a scheme is only suitable for seedlings.

Seedlings of early varieties are planted at a distance of 15 cm from each other with a row spacing of 60 cm. After picking the berries, they must also be thinned out so that the gap between the bushes is 30 cm.

Planting strawberries according to the scheme 30 × 60 cm. Strawberries give high yields only when the plants are free in the garden and there is no competition from other bushes (the exception is the first year). According to the scheme 30 × 60 cm, early varieties of strawberries are planted.

Between the varieties in the garden, the distance is left at 80 cm, it is necessary so that the mustache does not intersect. Confusion with varieties must be avoided by all means.

Planting according to the scheme 40 × 60 cm. According to this scheme, mid-season and late varieties are placed, since their bushes are more powerful, forming large rosettes.

Planting according to the scheme 40 × 70 cm. This scheme is used when planting strawberries of mid-ripening and late varieties on highly fertile chernozem soils.

You can plant bushes in a single-row or two-row way.

How to plant strawberries

Landing is carried out on cloudy days or in the evening, because in daytime and in sunny hot weather, the leaves evaporate water strongly. And since the bushes have not yet taken root, and the flow of water into the leaves does not occur, the plants may wither. This negatively affects the further development of culture.

At spring planting blooming strawberries remove all flower stalks, since the main thing is rooting and proper formation of plants. The harvest of seedlings only depletes the plant, which further leads to its weakening and poor wintering.

Proper planting of seedlings.

When planting plants, it is impossible to deepen or raise the "heart", since in the first case this leads to decay of the seedlings, and in the second - to its drying. "Heart" should be located at the level of the soil.

When planting strawberries, no fertilizers are used, they must be applied in advance. The roots are well straightened, they should not be twisted or bent up. With a length of roots over 7 cm, they are shortened, but they should not be less than 5 cm.

When planting in the hole, a mound is poured, the roots are evenly distributed over it and sprinkled with moist soil. After that, the seedlings are watered abundantly. You can spill the planting holes with water and plant the bushes directly into the water, then after planting, watering is not carried out.

Planting strawberries under black covering material

As a covering material, a black film or agrofiber (dark spunbond, lutarsil) with a thickness of 100 microns is used. When using thinner material, weeds grow through it. It is spread on the bed in a continuous layer 1-1.2 m wide.

At the edges, the material is fixed by pressing it to the ground with bricks, boards or sprinkling it with earth. Then cross-shaped slots are made on its surface, in which holes are dug and seedlings are planted in them. Slots are made after laying the material on the bed. The bushes are pressed tightly, otherwise the mustache will grow and take root under the film. There is no need to be afraid that the plants will be cramped, the film and agrofibre are able to stretch.

The ridges are made high and slightly sloping so that the water flows down and hits the ground along the edges. For the winter, the covering material is removed, because in winter the plants under it rot (especially under the film). Under covering material, it is better to grow strawberries in a single row.

The advantages of this landing method:

a significant increase in yield, since the black surface heats up more in the sun, the soil warms up faster and deeper;
berries are practically not affected by gray rot;
weed growth is suppressed;
less labor intensive growing process.

Flaws:

uniform watering of the bushes is almost impossible. Watering the plants under the root is also very difficult, because the slots are small and it is difficult for enough water to get into them;
the film does not allow air to pass through, due to which the roots rot;
weeds actively germinate through strawberry bushes;
way too expensive to grow

When growing strawberries under agrofibre or film, it is necessary to lay an irrigation system. This is economically justified only in large farms. On individual garden plots it is too laborious and costly.

The optimal life of the plantation is 4 years. Then the yields are sharply reduced, the berries become small and sour, it becomes necessary to renew the plantings of strawberries.

Video about the rules for planting garden strawberries:

Strawberry. Botanical description

Strawberry is a perennial herbaceous plant of the Pink family, with regularly renewed leaves and berries of different sizes, which are an overgrown receptacle, on the surface of which there are numerous small real seeds - fruits. The average strawberry bush has a height of 15 to 35 cm. The strawberry stem is erect, has soft pubescence. Large trifoliate leaves develop on lateral shoots. Strawberry fruits develop from corymbose inflorescences, consisting of 5-10 flowers, which are located on short pubescent pedicels. Individual flowers are White color and five petals.

The plant consists of above-ground and underground root parts. The aerial part is made up of leaves, peduncles, antennae, annual horns. The root system includes rhizome, adventitious roots of the horn and lateral fibrous roots. Strawberry is a dioecious plant, within one variety there are bushes with only female flowers, and other plants with only male flowers. Some cultivars may have bisexual flowers.

Useful properties of strawberries

Valuable Components

The pulp of strawberries is rich in fiber and vitamin C, as well as calcium, potassium and magnesium. This culture is a source of antioxidants. Useful substances are found not only in berries, but also in all other parts of the plant, which are dried, decoctions are prepared and added to tea.

Aromatic and taste characteristics

This culture is loved by everyone for its wonderful taste and aroma. Aromatic and gustatory qualities may vary from variety to variety. In general, strawberries have a pronounced sweet or sweetish-sour taste. The color of the fruit depends on the variety and can range from bright pink to red-black.

The use of strawberries in cooking and medicine

Strawberries are called the queen of the garden. Strawberries are eaten in fresh, make desserts, juices, fruit drinks, jams, marmalades from it, add it to cereals and natural yoghurts. Strawberry jam is a great way to reduce your sugar intake. In addition, it helps well as an aid in acute and chronic respiratory diseases. This culture is a source of antioxidants that delay aging and reduce the risk of chronic diseases. Women love strawberries because they help to lose weight, increase metabolism and reduce appetite. One cup of strawberries contains only 49 calories and is a lot of fun.

Strawberry. Growing features

Landing time: April - May, August - September.

Collection: throughout the growing season, from May to September.

Strawberries belong to early-growing types of cultivated plants. She loves a lot of light and moisture, but waterlogging is fraught with rotting of leaves and roots. During the active growth of the bushes, it is recommended to water the strawberries once a week, and during the fruiting period it is better to increase the amount of moisture and water it every 5 days.

In addition, strawberries do not like windy weather, so it is best to choose a place for planting them so that it is on a flat, weather-protected surface that is well lit by the sun and at the same time has breathable soil that is loose in composition.

Bud for growing strawberries

Medium loamy soil is best suited. Clay or sandy soils can be fertilized with compost or manure to increase nutrients and improve structure. Acidic soils need to be limed and similar fertilizers applied.

Propagation of strawberries

The main method of reproduction is seedling. Most often, gardeners take new rosettes from existing mother bushes, which are separated from the main bush. Each mother bush can have up to 10-15 rosettes, but only the first three develop from them. The rest can simply be removed so as not to deplete the main plant. This is a fairly simple method, since strawberry rosettes already have a rudimentary root system and an aerial part that can develop rapidly under favorable conditions. For these favorable conditions to come, the socket just needs to be pressed with roots to the soil, and they will begin to feed the plant on their own. The main mistake gardeners make is that they combine strawberry propagation and berry picking. Doing so is strongly discouraged. If you need to achieve good offspring from the mother strawberry bush, then all flower stalks on it should be removed.

Growing strawberries from seeds

But some gardeners also use seed plantings. Already mature berries are taken for seeds, which do not have bruises, rotten spots, are not infected with midges or other pests. It is best to take berries that have already begun to dry out. They are gently kneaded, poured with water and allowed to ferment. After fermentation, the seeds are easily separated from the bulk of the berry. Then the seeds are washed under running clean water, dried and put into a paper or cloth bag before sowing.

Strawberry seeds are planted in trays with soil at the end of February. It is necessary that the soil has an acidity of about 5.5 units. If it is elevated (for example, if the substrate consists of a third of lowland peat), then the soil is deoxidized by traditional means. As a rule, after sowing, strawberries germinate in the period from 7 to 10 days, depending on the variety and degree of seed germination. The germination process is especially laborious for remontant varieties. Seeds are evenly sown in the ground and covered with a thin layer of the substrate. Then watering is provided, and to preserve moisture, the pan is covered with polyethylene on top. Strawberry seedlings at the moment when 2-3 leaves have already appeared on them need picking. Each bush must be planted in a separate container. Strawberries are planted on a bed under a film in May, like ordinary seedlings. The first berries may appear this season.

When choosing strawberries for planting, you need to take a variety adapted to the data climatic conditions and resistant to those varieties of diseases that are present in this area. Most often, several varieties are chosen for continuous fruiting, which from spring to autumn put fresh fruits on the table. Gardeners prefer three varieties of strawberries, which differ in their precocity: early strawberry, mid-early and mid-late.

There are also so-called remontant strawberry varieties, which bear fruit continuously, while being highly resistant to disease and frost.

Strawberries grow and bear fruit as productively as possible within 3-4 years. After that, it is transplanted to another place, otherwise a decrease in productivity is inevitable. Experienced gardeners strawberries are transplanted every year for 1/4 part, as a result, there are no interruptions in fruiting.

Prepare the soil appropriately before planting. 2 weeks before planting, the soil is dug up to the depth of a full shovel bayonet. At the same time, roots, weeds are removed, the ground is leveled and marking is carried out. But it is better to prepare the soil for transplanting strawberries in 1-2 years, even if other crops grow in this place during this time. It is desirable to add 3-4 kg of organic fertilizers to the soil per 1 m2 of area. Suitable wood ash, humus, peat, manure in dry or dissolved form in water. Just before planting, it is better not to apply fertilizer so as not to burn the strawberry roots. Strawberry seedlings are rosettes with a well-developed root up to 7 cm long and optimally developed and strong petiole leaves. Remontant species are planted by dividing the mother plant.

The main thing when planting strawberry seedlings is not to damage or dry out the root system. Therefore, during transportation, the bushes are placed in a specially prepared clay mixture of a creamy consistency. If you need to transport seedlings over a long distance, then it is best to use polyethylene.

Seedlings are taken only from young strawberry bushes, which are no more than 2-3 years old. In this case, the yield will be much higher than that of seedlings taken from old specimens. When selecting seedlings, the yield of the mother bush is taken into account - the higher the yield, the higher the probability of obtaining the same yield from new bushes.

How and when to plant strawberries

Strawberries are planted in 1-2 rows so that the bushes do not block each other's light. When planting in two rows, a cord is pulled along each row on pegs driven into the ground, and planted along its line. From row to row, the distance should be at least 40 cm. After the second row, a gap must be left - a path of 70 m for harvesting and other manipulations. The bushes themselves in one row are planted at a distance of 25-30 cm.

The most suitable weather for landing will be a cloudy or rainy, not hot day. If the weather is hot, then it is better to leave the landing until the evening, when the temperature drops. Before planting strawberries in the garden, they dig a hole, water it and wait until the soil absorbs moisture and settles. Seedlings are placed in this hole so that the center of the outlet, its “heart”, is above the ground surface. When planting, you should try to straighten the roots, and not bend them, which is fraught with improper growth and development of the strawberry bush. The hole is carefully covered with soil, rammed, a small hole is made nearby and the bush is watered from a watering can without a sieve. When the entire row is planted, it is carefully covered with manure or humus so that the centers of the strawberry seedlings remain above the surface.

Modern materials greatly simplify the life of gardeners and lovers of growing strawberries. The main such material is agrofiber - a non-woven material that will protect strawberries from pests, weeds and premature evaporation of moisture from the soil. First, agrofiber strips are measured that correspond to the shape and size of the bed. Lay it on the ground and fix it. The main fixing of the fiber to the ground is carried out with wire pins. Equal pieces about 40 cm long are unwound from the skein and bent in half. These are the fasteners. The agrofibre is overlapped so that the first layer overlaps the second by 20 cm. Then the panels are fixed on the soil. After laying and fixing, the agrofibre is marked out in such a way that the recommended distances between the tracks and between the rows remain.

After marking with chalk or charcoal, the places where seedlings are planned to be planted are marked on the agrofibre. In this place, the agrofibre is cut obliquely, and the corners are turned outward. They dig a hole in the garden, and in each hole traditional way planting a bush of strawberries. The only drawback of agrofibre is that it is difficult to carry out fertilizer activities under the flooring. Therefore, everything you need should be brought into the ground even before the canvas is laid.

Note that it is better to plant strawberries not in the spring, as many gardeners do, but in August or September. Then the harvest will be next spring. And when planting in the spring, the first berries will appear only after a year. Later in September, plant strawberries in middle lane Russia is not recommended. The plant does not have time to take root in a short period and can completely freeze out in winter. But if there is no choice left, and the planting took place late in the fall, then it is necessary to cover the seedlings with spruce branches, thereby protecting them from freezing. It is advisable to throw snow on top. If the winter is snowless, then you can hold back the snow by installing shields on the site or using piles of branches.

Often strawberries are grown not only in open ground, but also under film. The simplest film shelter does not have a frame. Polyethylene is spread in a continuous seamless web right along the rows of strawberries after the snow has melted. Then it is fixed with wooden bars. A warm and humid microclimate allows you to get the first fruits almost a week earlier than the main harvest. Shelter is removed when leaves are updated on the bush.

Strawberry. Care

Strawberries require careful care. Compliance with the irrigation regime, hilling, top dressing, weed removal are mandatory. Since strawberries are heat-loving plants, it is better to irrigate with water at a temperature not lower than +15°C. Bushes are watered for almost the entire period when they are not under the snow. The main attention is paid to watering plants during flowering and the appearance of ovaries, during active fruiting, after fruiting has been completed, and also almost all autumn until the end of October. For irrigation, rows of honey are left with special grooves, water is directed into them. In hot weather, the method of sprinkling is also used.

Strawberries require careful care and weeding. After harvesting the old leaves in the spring, after the snow melts, loosening is carried out between the rows of strawberries in order to accumulate and retain moisture. The first loosening of the soil is carried out as soon as the snow melts and the soil dries up. It is not worth delaying this procedure, since the soil will dry out and even dry out during this time, and the strawberry crop will be half as much. In summer, you need to regularly remove weeds from the beds and aisles, which are strawberry competitors in the fight for moisture, nutrients and light. Weeding is carried out when the soil is moist - after rain or watering. You can also combine weeding with loosening the upper part of the soil. In autumn, strawberries require hilling, as for summer period she's getting naked top part rhizomes. As a result, the plant may die.

The entire growing season, strawberries must be fed, as it is extremely demanding on the composition of the soil. Used for feeding organic species fertilizers. Before feeding, for about 30 minutes, strawberry bushes are watered with warm water so as not to soak its central part and foliage. The first top dressing is carried out after the snow melts and the leaves are harvested, just when the first loosening is carried out. Under an adult bush, up to 2.5 liters of a fertilizer solution with a large number of trace elements are applied. Young plants are less demanding and hardened, so they need half the dose of fertilizer.

The second top dressing is carried out before flowering. They take for her organic fertilizers: a solution of mullein or bird droppings (proportions, respectively, 1: 6 and 1: 20). The third top dressing is needed already during the flowering of strawberries. It is watered with a solution of cow dung, wood ash and warm water. In mid-August, they make another top dressing, the fourth. The main thing is that there is no nitrogen in the fertilizer so that strawberries do not start growing in winter. During all these periods, chlorine-containing fertilizers, to which this crop reacts very poorly, should be excluded from top dressing.

In addition to top dressing and loosening, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the bushes themselves. In the spring, old last year's leaves are cut off on them, as well as diseased or frostbitten new ones. In autumn, mustaches and the foliage that has been on the bush all summer are removed on strawberries. It is necessary to leave 2-3 young leaves, which next year will become the basis for the formation of a bush.

Proper harvesting of fruits also plays an important role in increasing yields.

They begin to pick strawberries in June, so all actions related to fertilizer or top dressing must be completed 15-20 days before the start of the collection. In order for the berries to remain clean, stands or pallets are placed under them. Berry-bearing brushes can be tied to pegs, lifting up from the soil. If the strawberry variety is characterized by the presence of short brushes, then it is necessary to mulch the soil between the rows with sawdust or straw and monitor the cleanliness of the mulch. In hot weather, the berries ripen quickly, so the collection must be carried out every day. On cool days, you can pick strawberries once every 2 days. If you do not pick berries on time, then the yield drops.

Foreword

Almost every summer resident wonders how to grow strawberries at home and at the same time get a good harvest, large and sweet berries. The main task in this case is not to use any pesticides and substances harmful to human health, so that the berries contain only useful substances at the time of harvest. Propagating and caring for strawberries takes a lot of effort, especially if you want to get a lot of bushes next year and still enjoy a sweet harvest this year. How to do everything right, what planting and care technique to choose, how to prepare strawberries for the winter so that all the bushes remain “alive” in the spring, and we read much more later in the article!

How to grow strawberries in the country - we select the appropriate variety and hybrid depending on the conditions of care

The first step is to decide why you need strawberries, for yourself or for sale. If you grow only for your own needs, then it is best to give preference to domestic selection - the berries will be much tastier, do not require special care, but their size is an order of magnitude smaller.

For sale, it would be best to grow strawberries of the Dutch and American selection - a very large mass of the fruit, but the taste is always inferior to our strawberries.

Among the main varieties bred in Europe, they are very popular:

Queen Elizabeth- the variety is unpretentious to the soil, grows even on sandy and clay soils, has a very high yield - it bears fruit 2 times per season, and the second time is no worse than the first in terms of the number of collected berries and their weight. The only big minus of the variety is that the berries are very juicy, but have a “sourness”, which does not satisfy the requirements of many buyers. That is why it is grown Queen Elizabeth exclusively for their own needs and lovers of such berries. It goes well for jam if you add more sugar.
Zenga Zengana- a very good German variety, which in many European countries is No. 1 in the beds of summer residents. Its main advantage is that it is excellent for freezing. It bears fruit well, but the first berries are large, up to 80 grams alone, and the subsequent ones are very small, so only the first “wave” of the crop is often harvested.
Honey- despite its name, the berry has very little resemblance to honey, as it has a “sourness” even at the stage of technical ripeness. The greatest "plus" of this variety is transportability. This strawberry can be transported over long distances, it lies very well and does not lose its external aesthetics or its properties. The berries are small, but the bushes bear fruit well.

This is the most famous varieties, which sit on the territory of Russia, but are the result of plant breeding in Europe and America. Concerning domestic varieties, then there are many, but only a few are especially popular, namely:

Daryonka- very tasty and big berries. The main advantage is early ripeness, the first berries weigh up to 40-50 grams, the next 15-20 grams each. It has a taste of strawberries at full technical ripeness, very sweet, juicy. Berries can come in different shapes depending on the amount of light and fertilizer.
marvelous- an excellent variety of Leningrad selection, has a very powerful bush, large and dry berries, which are very conveniently transported. The advantages include the increased sweetness of the variety, its resistance to frost and drought, as well as long-term fruiting - for several months in a row the berries ripen evenly. Despite the fact that the plant is very fond of pests, the work to eliminate them will be generously rewarded with a good harvest!
Maryshka. The main advantages of the variety - the driest berry of all known in Russia. It is very well stored, transported, and the taste qualities are superior to many well-known domestic and foreign varieties - the berries are extremely sweet, have the taste of strawberries and smell strongly. Does not require special care and watering, unlike Daryonki and Divnoy.

A lot depends on the variety, in particular the yield of your berries and their sweetness. But it is worth remembering that berry care and watering affect taste to a greater extent. Even the best variety will have a “sourness” if it is constantly filled with water and a lot of foliar dressing is used, and with a lack of moisture, the berries will be very small and irregular in shape, but extremely sweet. It is necessary to provide the plant with the optimal ratio of moisture and fertilizers, and only then the berries will be large and tasty.

Properly planting seedlings

After you have selected strawberry seedlings and brought them to the place, it will be up to planting. The process should be given due attention, because not only the yield, but also the possibility of subsequent processing and propagation of strawberries will directly depend on how you place the bushes.

When landing, you must adhere to the following rules:

Plant strawberries only in a row or in cells, especially if you are placing several varieties at once in one area. This is necessary in order not to confuse the bushes when they throw out tendrils, it is convenient to weed during fruiting, and also to pick strawberries without damaging new bushes. It grows very strongly and one bush (if you propagate strawberries, and not harvest in the first year) can occupy up to 1 m 2 of area!
Plant seedlings only with the land in which it was before. You can pre-place the roots in water for a couple of hours to absorb as much moisture as possible. After landing, be sure to fill the hole with water- strawberries are sensitive to drought in the early days and often disappear if the soil is not immediately moistened well.
Plant in holes or make furrows for water, so that when watering under the root, water collects and saturates the earth with moisture as much as possible.
Do not damage the roots, do not cut or carry out any operations that violate the integrity of the plant - you must first let the roots strengthen for 1 week, then weed, loosen, and the like.

Proper planting is half the battle, as strawberries are resistant to drought, pests and other troubles, but very sensitive to any changes during planting or transplanting. As for the temperature, it is necessary to plant when the thermometer shows at least +7 0 C at night, since the roots need to quickly strengthen and grow, and at temperatures below this there is a risk of plant death immediately after planting.

Strawberries in the country - care and weed control

Caring for strawberries is quite difficult. More precisely, it is laborious, since it will be necessary to take certain actions almost every week to improve the conditions for the growth and development of bushes. First of all, special attention is paid to weeds. They can be dealt with in several ways:

Weeding and pulling out weeds - the most common method, involves manual labor. Suitable for small areas of strawberries. It is necessary to ensure that the strawberries are as clean as possible, and nothing interferes with their development. Even in the absence of weeds, it is necessary to carry out periodic weeding - it kills the "threads" (the remains of the weed root system and young seedlings that are contained in the upper soil ball and suck out useful substances).
Agrofibre or black film. This is a relatively new technology, which involves covering the entire area with a film or a special black fiber through which light does not pass. Weeds do not grow, and a hole is made in place of the bushes through which the bush is pulled out. Thus, only strawberries get access to the light. The advantages of this method:

berries are not in the ground, they are always clean;
more moisture accumulates, strawberries need to be watered less often;
weeds do not need to be removed - they do not grow under the film.

Pesticide. This method involves the treatment with herbicides of continuous action, such as Hurricane or Roundup before planting strawberries, but we will not consider it, since any pesticides have a bad effect on human health.

Watering also plays an important role. If it is not possible to make a drip, you need to provide watering with sprayers. Make sure that the top layer of the earth is constantly wet. It is best to water at night or in the evening, about 1 time for 3-4 days.

Strawberries love the sun, but with an excess of it, the leaves can "burn". They become orange color. If possible, then you need to cover the area with a “shade” - a special mesh that reduces the amount of light transmitted to the area.

Technique of growing "for antennae" and "for berries"

If you are starting to grow strawberries, you must immediately decide what you want to get this particular year. The yield of strawberries directly depends on the number of antennae (the reproductive organs of strawberries). If there are a lot of antennae, do not expect a good harvest, since all the energy of the plant will go to throwing out additional shoots and forming new bushes. If you cut off the tendrils before the end of the fruiting of the bush, you will not get healthy and strong new bushes for the winter.

There is only one way out - to divide the plot and choose the bushes that you will have for fruiting, and others for reproduction. The first bushes (on which you plan to grow large berries) should be absolutely without antennae - they need to be cut off immediately when they appear and not allow the plant to waste nutrients on them. It is best to leave no more than 10 berries on each bush in the first year - then they will be large, juicy and sweet. With a large number of berries, the bush does not have enough energy for fruiting, and the strawberries will be small.

Other bushes that you plan to propagate should be left without berries so that the tendrils develop faster. After a new bush appears at the end of the tendril (2-3 pairs of leaves) and it leans to the ground, it should be stuck a little into the soil and poured with plenty of water. After a few weeks, when the bush takes root, a process will go further from it - it must be cut off with a pruner so that the first bush develops better. As a result, at the end of September you will already have a full-fledged one more bush, the size of the first one. Everything, you can cut off with pruning shears from the "mother" and transplant it to the place you need. When transplanting, it is better to dig it up and pull it out of the soil with the ground in which the root has become stronger - the bush will take root much faster.

Processing strawberries from pests and diseases - what to do and what not to do

Strawberries practically do not suffer from the invasion of any pests, its diseases are mostly caused by a lack of fertilizers or abundant sunlight.

In any case, you should remember what you can not do in the process of growing strawberries:

Never treat with strong pesticides, as many harmful components then remain in the plant and in the berries. There are more gentle ways to eliminate insects: treatment with copper sulfate, soapy water, salt mixture - this does not harm a person, but insects will never attack treated bushes!
Do not use any preparations containing acids, as well as fertilizers. Do not use orthophosphorus granules, additives containing sulfur and other similar components.
When processing BI-58 or derivatives of pesticides, make sure that the harvest is carried out no earlier than 2 weeks after the last treatment.

Very often, strawberries turn yellow and lag behind in development - this is the first sign that the plant is receiving excess sunlight or a lack of fertilizer. If it is not possible to make a shadow over the strawberries, just water it every day for the evening and, after watering, add foliar feeding, best of all - carbamide (30 g / 1 bucket each). As soon as the bush turns green, stop feeding.

Brown spotting is a major problem in strawberry cultivation. The old leaves of the bush have brown spots, and then completely become this color. These bushes reproduce very poorly and bear fruit. Processing in progress Byleton(15 g/10 l of water) after flowering plants, spotting will disappear in 1-2 weeks.

White spotting - both young and old leaves are exposed to it, white spots are formed. Soon these spots can destroy the leaf blade, the plant's metabolism will stop. There is also processing Byleton(15 g/10 l of water) immediately after flowering and 2-3 weeks after the first spraying.

Powdery mildew. Many varieties of strawberries are exposed to it, as a result of which the leaf blade folds into a tube, and there is a white coating on the bottom of it. The leaves soon die, the bush lags behind in development, and in some cases completely dries up.

Different types of aphids - rare, but it happens that strawberries are attacked by aphids, especially when the year turned out to be very wet. You can fight it before harvesting the drug Aktofit (1 g is dosed per liter of water).

What needs to be done with the berries before winter and how to protect the bushes from freezing at -30 0 С?

Preparing a plant for the winter is quite simple and does not require any special knowledge and effort. The main thing is that the plant does not freeze and does not freeze, otherwise there is a high probability of its death. If the winter is snowy and snow falls before the ground cools down to -10 0 C, then there will be no problems at all, and strawberries will easily wait out long frosts of 30-40 degrees under a white carpet. But hope for weather not worth it, and it is better to protect your crop from freezing. This can be done in the following ways:

Sleeping strawberries with needles. The most effective method, which involves throwing a layer of needles 6-7 centimeters on top of the strawberry leaves, which are bent down to the ground for the winter. Such a shelter will reliably protect the plant from any frost, and under the snow the strawberries will be even warmer.
Wood sawdust. At any woodworking plant, you can take a lot of sawdust for a penny and cover the entire area of \u200b\u200bstrawberries with them. They will not only protect it from the cold, but will also become an excellent fertilizer after the wood rots under the spring rains. In the spring, the “blanket” can be removed from the bushes with a rake and left in the aisles.
Sprinkle with earth. The method is very time-consuming, since in the spring each bush will have to be pulled out of the ground, cleaned, leveled the ground.

If you do everything right and follow the instructions, you will not only get tasty and large berries in a couple of months, but also propagate the bushes and get 4-5 times more plants next year! Grow tasty and healthy berries at home is not only easy, but also pleasant, as they are natural and healthy!

Strawberry- perhaps the most favorite berry. In addition to excellent taste, it is appreciated for high content folic acid, vitamin C, potassium, magnesium, iodine and many others. Many dishes can be made from strawberries, not only desserts, but also sauces.

The quality and quantity of strawberries depends on the cultivation technology. also differ from each other in taste, size of berries and many others, so you need to decide on the variety for cultivation.

How, after all, to grow strawberries, is it difficult to propagate and fertilize them, and other subtleties - find out in our article.

Strawberries can be grown in both seedling and seedless ways.

Seedling method of growing strawberries

So, when choosing strawberry seedlings, it is important to pay attention, firstly, to the weather conditions under which one or another variety is grown. Next, you should carefully examine the proposed seedlings themselves - there should be no mechanical damage, spots, dots, burns, etc. on the leaf plates and the plant as a whole. The color should be bright or dark green with no pale or whitish patches. The leaves should be smooth, in no case wrinkled. The root length of good strawberry seedlings is at least 7 cm. Otherwise, they want to slip you low-quality, diseased, infected seedlings, buying which you will only have problems.

In the event that you plant strawberries yourself from the varieties already available on the site, you need to properly prepare the plants for the propagation process. First, flower stalks are removed. The mustache is not touched. At the end of July, rosettes form on these very antennae - in many varieties their number is about 30.

Rosettes on which the number of leaves from 4 and above are suitable for seating. To do this, they are separated from the main mother bush and, together with a clod of earth, are planted in another place. After planting, such a new plant must be watered.

The seedless way to grow strawberries

This method of growing strawberries is applicable to those varieties that do not form mustaches. Process seed cultivation- much more difficult than usual. Seeds are easier to get in specialized stores.

Seeds are sown simply on the soil, and are not sprinkled on top. Sowing is carried out in a box, after which it is covered with glass or polyethylene. The cover is removed immediately when shoots appear. And the seedling box is transferred to a warmer and lighter place. It is important during the stay of plants in such boxes to monitor the level of soil or substrate moisture.

When one or two leaves appear, young bushes are transplanted into pots. Watered, fed, and when stable heat sets in, they are planted in the ground.

Growing strawberries - time and methods of planting

Everyone chooses the time and methods of landing for himself. Usually, strawberries are planted either in summer or in spring. In summer, the planting period lasts from late August to mid-September, and in spring - from late April to mid-May. The advantage of summer planting is that the first crop can be harvested as early as next year. In addition, the area not yet occupied by strawberries can be used for growing other crops.

Landing is carried out in three ways - single-line, two-line and vertical.

Two line method strawberries are usually planted in open ground. Row spacings are left at 40 cm, and between the bushes in the rows there should be at least 20-30 cm. The width of the beds should be at least 80 cm.

One line method strawberries are most commonly grown own plots. It is planted between rows of trees, at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. Row spacing in this case is 60-70 cm.

Vertical method of growing strawberries. Such planting is used in cases of growing ampelous (climbing) varieties, saving space and just for beauty.

For this, vertical wooden trellis supports are used. Plants are planted near such structures, and the resulting whiskers themselves cling to them.

planting depth for strawberries

Soil for growing strawberries

Strawberries are a berry, the cultivation of which should follow simple but mandatory rules. It is impossible to plant it in the direction of the northeast and in the shade of trees. Near trees with a powerful root system, planting this berry is also not recommended. It is not necessary to grow vegetables of the Solanaceae family near it.

Predictably, the soil for strawberries is prepared in advance. They carry out plowing, or digging up the earth at the same time (or immediately after) with the application of fertilizers.

It is a well-known fact that the best fertilizers for strawberries are organic. For the main application, take humus and compost. Fresh manure should not be used.

Be sure to check the soil for pests. Basically, it is the May beetle and wireworm. If larvae of these insects are found, sow alkaloid lupine in the area. This grass will enrich the soil not only with nitrogen, but also with other elements. In addition, pests will not sit in such a place for a long time.

Strawberries are not particularly demanding on a particular type of soil, but grow best on chernozems and dark gray forest soils. It is better to return to its original place once every three years. The best predecessors of strawberries are steam, green manure and cereals.

In addition to using ordinary soil, strawberries are often grown on substrates. The best option is a mixture of turf, peat, humus, sawdust and sand. It is better to take soddy soil of medium loamy granulometric composition. For 7 parts of such soil, 2 parts of sawdust are taken.

Ash and dolomite beech can be added to peat. For 1 bucket of peat, they take, respectively, a glass of ash and 3 tablespoons of flour.

Sand is added by river. Its amount should not exceed 0.1 of the entire mixture.

Fertilizer system for growing strawberries

Without fertilizers of this berry, you can not expect high yields. Best of all, strawberries respond to the introduction of organic matter.

It is best to take humus and manure.

Manure is a mixture of pet bedding and droppings. Manure is used exclusively in rotted form. Otherwise, weed seeds, pathogens and pest larvae will get into the soil from fresh manure.

Humus - in fact, manure, but completely rotted and fermented. In humus, all micro- and macroelements are in the most convenient form for assimilation by plants.

You can also use chicken manure - the best source organic nitrogen. Specifically for strawberries, you need to take chicken manure in a ratio of 1:20 with water.

Top dressing is also carried out with mineral fertilizers. The concentration of nitrogen should be within 14%, phosphorus 7%, potassium 27% and magnesium 0.5%.

To save time and Money, recommend purchasing complex fertilizers.

Nitrogen is needed to obtain berries with high taste properties. For the introduction of nitrogen, you can take ammonium nitrate or urea. 1 tablespoon of urea is taken per ten-liter bucket. The first time they are fed in early spring, after the removal of old leaves. A solution in an amount of about half a liter per bush is poured at the base of the plants.

Potassium promotes longer storage of berries. In addition, due to potassium, the amount of sugar in fruits increases.

The disadvantage of this element is visually determined by the browning of the ends of the sheet plates. Most often, potassium nitrate, potassium sulfate and potassium chloride are used. Bring in the spring separately for each bush.

Fertilizers are applied in two stages - in autumn and spring. In autumn, the beds are dug up simultaneously with the application of fertilizers. After harvesting, the second main part is introduced.

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied at different times, depending on the type of soil: in spring in light soil, in autumn - in clay soil. During flowering and fruiting, strawberries cannot be fertilized.

In mid-September, strawberries are fed last time- for 10 liters of water, a glass of wood ash, 2 tablespoons of nitroammophoska and 20-30 g of potash fertilizer are taken.

When transplanting bushes to a new place, 8 kg of organic matter and 30 kg of mineral nutrition are added to the soil in advance.

Care of strawberries during the growing season

The most basic care for strawberries is timely watering. In dry weather, it is carried out once a week early in the morning. Water is used either spring or well-settled. In any case, the water should be warm.

Top dressing is carried out once every two weeks. After the full formation of the fruit, sawdust is poured under the bushes. This prevents the fruit from rotting. Also, in order to avoid rotting, the stalks are propped up with pegs.

In spring and early summer, bushes can be sprayed with phytohormones. This will improve the formation of ovaries and contribute to an increase in yield.

Berries need to be collected as they ripen, the long stay of ripe berries on the bush will negatively affect. They are collected together with the stalks. Unnecessary tendrils are removed, otherwise they will use some of the nutrients needed by the main plant.

Sick plants are removed along with a three-centimeter layer of soil. If weather conditions abound in rain, plantings should be covered with polyethylene. By not doing this, you risk getting tasteless and watery berries.

Growing strawberries - preparing for winter

From the end of August to mid-September, plantings are thinned out. All diseased, dried, stained leaves and plants are removed. Remove whiskers and stalks. As a result, only about 30% of the original appearance remains from each bush.

If there are roots that have crawled out of the ground, they should be sprinkled with soil. Be sure to cover plants in regions with low temperatures. You can cover with both film and sawdust with peat.

Protecting strawberries from pests

The best defense is an attack, and in case Agriculture- warning. can significantly reduce yields. To protect strawberries from pests, they are treated with the following insecticides:

Karbofos, Ph.D. (a.i. malathion, 50%). Effective against weevils, strawberry beetles, transparent mites. Spraying is carried out in dry calm weather. The air temperature should not exceed +15º C. Water for the solution needs 8 liters, consumption - 10 liters per 10 bushes. Processing is carried out a maximum of twice - after harvesting.
Inta-vir, v.r.p. (a.i. cypermethrin, 3.75%). Sprayed before flowering to prevent weevils. Consumption is 1.5 liters per square meter.
Aktara, v.d.g. (a.i. thiamethoxam, 25%). Insecticide against whiteflies and beetles. 4 g of the drug is dissolved in 5 liters of water. The consumption of such a solution is 2 l/100 m 2 .
Metaldehyde, w.g. (a.i. metaldehyde, 5%). A drug a wide range action, on strawberries is used to fight snails and slugs. Spraying rate - 4-8 kg / ha.

Protecting strawberries from diseases

The main diseases of strawberries include wilting, rot, spotting and powdery mildew. can greatly affect the process of growing strawberries.

Fungicides used in the fight against strawberry pathogens:

used in 3-4% concentration before the start of the growing season and in a 1% solution before flowering and after harvesting against angular leaf spot, gray rot.
Soap-copper emulsion, consisting of 20 g of soap and copper sulfate per liter of water, destroys powdery mildew.
Topaz and Azocen at concentrations of 5-20 g per 10 liters of water, respectively, are also effective against powdery mildew.

In addition to chemical means of protection, before planting, strawberry roots are dipped in Agat 25K (7 g / l) and Humat K (15 g / l) biological preparations.

In addition, we must not forget about the agrotechnical conditions for the proper cultivation of strawberries:

return to the same place not earlier than after 6 years;
cultivation in the same place - no more than 4 years.