Where to plant apple and pear trees. Planting a pear - basic rules and recommendations. Early ripe apple and pear varieties

It's time to start planting trees. Fruit trees and shrubs are planted at this time of the year, for several reasons, if you plant hardy trees and in the black earth, otherwise, such work is best done in the spring. So what are the benefits autumn planting of apple and pear trees why it is at this time of the year that such work is often carried out, and how to do it correctly, you will learn further from our article.

Planting fruit trees in autumn:

The main advantages of autumn planting fruit trees quite clear: Suitable temperature regime, a sufficient amount of moisture, no scorching sun rays, and prices for tree seedlings in autumn are usually much lower than at the end of winter or in spring. But there is one condition that must be met so that the trees do not die, they need to be planted about 15 days before the onset of frost, so check the folk calendars and the weather forecast before you decide plant an apple or pear tree in autumn.

Apple-tree varieties ranetka planting in the fall.

Treasure pear varieties, planting in autumn.

For planting, we chose precisely such varieties of apple and pear trees, autumn term ripening, we have biennial seedlings, with a closed root system. Let's now talk about the timing of planting an apple tree. It is planted from mid-September to mid-October, if you live in the northern regions, then the dates need to be shifted by half a month ago.

Where to plant fruit trees on the site?

We figured it out, now we need to choose a place for planting apple and pear trees in the fall. We have to choose, sunny, open space, see that there is no close occurrence nearby ground water. Keep in mind that the distance between two new seedlings should be at least five meters from each other, as well as from various hedges, buildings and other things, it should also be more than five meters.

After you have decided on the landing site, we need to dig a landing hole, its size should be as follows: depth 65 cm, width 60 cm.

How to fertilize fruit trees in the fall.

For this we need:

excavated earth;
A bucket of humus;
100 grams of superphosphate;
100 grams of potash fertilizers;

All this is mixed and fertilizers for planting fruit trees are ready.

If you are interested in how to fertilize already fruiting trees in autumn period, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the following video, where everything is described and shown in detail.

And we will continue the disassembly with our seedlings, after we have made the mixture, we recommend that you also do drainage system for young fruit trees.

For this we need:

Broken brick;
Large rubble.

The layer of such drainage pebbles should be about 15 centimeters.

Planting apple and pear trees

First of all, we fill the hole with drainage.

Then we send the soil mixture into the pit, each layer should be about 15-20 centimeters.
In order for the mixture layer to settle, we need to water the hole with a hose, and let it stand for about 20 minutes.

Now we are planting seedlings. Please note that root neck, which is between the beginning of root growth and grafting, should be above ground level. If yours is a little lower, then add a little mixture.

If everything is fine, remove the bag from the seedling, and start filling it with potting mix.

When you have dug the hole, pour plenty of water over it.

And again we fall asleep with the soil mixture that you still have left.

Tamp your feet well.

That's all, rules for planting apple and pear trees in autumn are the same, so feel free to repeat this procedure with the second seedling. On this we say goodbye to you, we hope you have learned a lot from our article useful information, not only about planting, but also about fertilizing fruit trees in the fall, until we meet again on our website and have great harvests!

In autumn, planting fruit seedlings is best done from the moment the leaves fall from the trees until frost appears. This is approximately the end of September and until the twentieth of October. It is desirable that the planted trees have twenty days before the cold weather. During this time, they will have time to settle down. It is recommended that the temperature does not fall below +4.

If seedlings of fruit trees with a closed root system, then the planting time is extended. You can also plant them in November, until about the middle of it. At the time of buying planting material with leaves, after planting it is necessary to cut them off. Leaves divert the forces of the plant to support their life support and contribute to its drying.

Winter storage of fruit seedlings

Autumn weather can bring surprises and be unpredictable. If a good period for planting has not come or has been missed, fruit tree seedlings should dig. To do this, make a trench on the site where groundwater does not stagnate. The wall on the south side is sloping, on the north - the side of the trench can be sheer.

Plants have a crown to the south, the roots are sprinkled with sand, loose earth. Watered so that the air sinuses disappeared and again sprinkled with earth. Tree roots should not touch each other. By winter with the onset of cold weather, fruit seedlings completely covered with earth, only the tips of the branches peek out.

Trees with an open root will remain until spring in the cellar.

Now let's take a closer look at how fruit tree seedlings are planted.

Planting apple seedlings

Before laying down Apple orchard, need to do site marking and determine the location of the recesses. The distance between the trees should be taken based on the varieties of apple trees. If the apple trees are vigorous varieties, then the planting scheme: the distance between plants is 4 meters, between rows - 6 meters. Weak varieties can be planted at a distance of three meters and respect 5 meters between rows.

If apple trees are planted in the fall, soil preparation is carried out in two months.

For this period:

dig up the soil, removing the roots of weeds,
apply complex fertilizers,
dig up the soil again
1.5 months before planting trees, excavations are made, drainage is arranged, fertilizer is laid.

We plant pears

Pears and apple trees are very similar in terms of cultivation. Plants should be planted, determining the distance between the trees, depending on the size of the pear in adulthood. Distance between plants take at least the sum of the heights (the estimated height of an adult pear or apple tree) of neighboring trees. Such a distance is comfortable, because the plants will not obscure the light to each other, the possibility of their ventilation remains, it is convenient to take care of the crowns of trees.

Soil preparation is carried out the same as for apple trees. If the planting pit is prepared on cultivated land, then it should be of such size that the roots are placed. Usually, under apple and pear trees, a recess is made 0.8 x 0.8 meters and a depth of about 0.9 meters. When the soil is taken out, the upper fertile layer is discarded on one side, and the one below is in another place so that they do not mix.

Seedling preparation

Seedlings should be carefully examined. Trim broken roots and branches. If the root is too dry, soak in water, you can add a drug from pests of the roots.

The roots of fruit seedlings are fresh, not dry - they do not require soaking, but it is very good to dip them in a mash. How to make it: mix a kilogram of clay and a kilogram of black soil, dilute with three liters of water, you can add a bag of root and a pesticide, for example, Aktar.

General landing rules

Fruit trees and shrubs should be planted at the same depth as they were before planting in the nursery. It is very important. A plant planted deeper, grows poorly, bears fruit late.

When planting trees, it is necessary to ensure that their root neck is at ground level. root collar- this is the name of the place of transition from the root to the trunk, so as not to be confused with the place where the vaccination was. Experienced gardeners advised for deep planting, it is better to immediately transplant the tree than to leave it buried.

A mound is poured in the landing recess, after which a seedling is placed on it, the roots are straightened along the slopes of the mound. When planting seedlings, it is important to remember that the roots are sprinkled with the fertile soil of the upper layer, and the soil of the lower layer is added from above. You can fill the entire planting hole with prepared fertile soil.

After planting, fruit trees and shrubs are watered abundantly. This is necessary so that the roots are more tightly connected to the ground. Expose the support and tie up the seedlings.

Preparing for winter

Autumn tree planting provides activities to prepare the plants for winter. Before the cold snap seedling spud. Fruit tree stems tie up branches of needles from freezing and damage by hares. You can also prepare a seedling for winter with handy materials: wrap the trunk with corrugated cardboard, plastic mesh, the main thing is that the material allows air to pass through.

Terms of preparation of young trees for winter - starting in september. The trunk circle is spilled with water and mulched so that the roots and root neck do not freeze. Better to plant in autumn winter-hardy varieties apple and pear trees, the rest of the seedlings of fruit trees are best dug for planting in the spring.

Autumn in the Moscow region is the time to plant fruit seedlings and shrubs. For information on how to prepare a planting hole, make soil and arrange a trunk circle for apple and pear trees, see my video.

Place to land

For planting apple and pear seedlings, I prepare a hole with a width, length and depth of 1 m.

I have peat bogs on my site, groundwater lies close, so I raise the place for planting seedlings 30-40 cm above ground level.
To protect against moles, you can protect the walls of the pit with slate
I fill the bottom of the pit (where water stagnates) with a sand-gravel mixture (SGS) and expanded clay on top for drainage. Also, to protect against groundwater, so that the roots do not get wet, it is recommended to put a sheet of iron or slate.
On top of the expanded clay, I lay the excavated earth with a layer of 20 cm (I have peat), then fertile imported soil, sprinkle with mineral fertilizers: ash (about 2 buckets), kemira, bone meal (1 bucket). The next layer is manure, earth and compost.

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Planting seedlings

When planting seedlings, it is very important to focus on the level of the root collar. The pear, unlike the apple tree, has a very strong tap root and few lateral roots, so it is preferable to take annual pear seedlings for planting - they are better accepted.

Before planting, seedlings are recommended to be kept in a solution of sodium humate.
In the nursery, they told me that when planting, it is necessary to deepen the pear seedling to the middle of the grafting site.
I make a hole according to the size of the root system of the seedling and place the tree there.
After abundantly watered and covered with soil until the middle of the inoculation.

Planting apple and pear trees (video)

The cost of good seedlings is incomparable with the mental and material costs that arise in the event of the death or poor growth of young plants.

Therefore, before planting trees with your own hands, it is important to learn a few rules regarding which seedlings to choose, when and how to plant pears, cherries and apples in a summer cottage.

How to choose seedlings of fruit trees before planting?

In order for the trees to grow quickly, not get sick and bear abundant fruit in the future, you need to buy seedlings in specialized outlets or in nurseries. Zoned seedlings that were grown in the same area where they are going to be planted will take root much faster than their counterparts brought from coastal regions.

What to look for when choosing fruit tree seedlings for planting

Groundwater at their summer cottage

for vigorous trees long roots, depth groundwater on the territory should not exceed 3 meters;

semi-dwarf ones are planted in the ground, the underground waters of which rise no higher than 2.5 m;

seedlings dwarf trees, with a superficial root system, a plot with groundwater located at a level above 1.5 meters is required.

Soil quality

Picking a landing site at random is a mistake. Seedlings will develop poorly and will enter fruiting time with a great delay. Speaking of passions fruit plants to soil conditions, then apple trees develop well on sod-podzolic, forest gray and chernozem soils light composition with a neutral reaction. Pears love moist slightly podzolized soils, sandy loam and loam. Cherries are medium and light loams.

illumination

Fruit trees need good lighting. The more sun the plants receive, the larger and sweeter their fruits will be. Based on this, seedlings are planted on the southern (less often southwestern) side of the site, in a place protected from the winds.

The area of the land

The area allotted for planting apple, pear and cherry trees is chosen after calculating the sum of the heights of all trees. That is, if different cultures grow in the garden with a height of 5 m, 4 m and 3 m, then they need to be planted from each other at a distance of 6-9 m. If you plant seedlings thicker, they will not die from this, but also developing, they will grow not in breadth, but upwards, intertwining with branches, interfering, fraying and shading each other.

Age of tree seedlings

The best option for planting will be a tree that is not yet 2 years old. How to determine the age of a seedling? The absence of branches on the trunk will help to identify such a seedling. Gardeners do not recommend purchasing plants with branches, overdried roots, with growths on the stem and leaves.

Grafted and own-rooted seedlings

Ask the seller what kind of seedling it is - grafted or own-rooted! Pears and apple trees must be grafted. Plums and cherries are much rarer.

How to tell if a seedling is grafted or not? If the inoculation was done by the kidney, then the stem of the seedling will be slightly twisted (another sign - look for a noticeable fine on the trunk). There are no signs of vaccination - it means that they are trying to deceive you!

The best option is to buy seedlings in a container or with an earthen clod that completely covers the root system. So that the roots (the standard of tree quality) of freshly dug up plants do not dry out, they are planted within a couple of days after purchase. Fruit trees in containers are planted at any time convenient for the summer resident - from late autumn until early spring.

When should a tree be planted?

The timing of planting fruit trees is determined taking into account biological features varieties and climatic conditions. Apple and pear trees are planted in two terms: in early autumn and early spring.

Planting trees in spring

Spring planting begins from the moment the last snow melts and ends ten days before bud break. For planting apple trees, cherries and pears, a natural product is used as fertilizer - fresh manure. They put him in the bottom of the pit. When the seedlings get used to it a little (after about a week), growth activators are introduced into the soil.

Planting trees in autumn

Survival fruit trees planted in the rainy season (time of biological dormancy of plants) is almost 100%. Loose, moisture-saturated earth and relatively warm temperature air contribute to the stable survival of fruit seedlings. It is interesting that when plants are planted in the fall before the onset of frost, the seedlings, before they go into hibernation and stop growing, have time to give young roots. The roots in a snowless winter will be protected by a layer of organic matter and mulch. The material was prepared for the site www.site

Planting trees in winter

Winter plantings are relevant when it comes to large-sized plants. Young seedlings of fruit trees are not planted in frozen ground.

Planting trees in summer

During the hot period, extensive evaporation occurs through the leaves. Short roots lack moisture and do not grow. Seedlings planted in summer are doomed to death.

How to plant trees on the site?

Step-by-step instructions for self-planting seedlings - recommendations for beginners

1. Soil preparation

Bookmark the future orchard starts with soil preparation. The site is cleared of weeds mechanically or by means of herbicides. Preplant cultivation is carried out - they plow deeply and fill the soil with mineral and organic fertilizers.

2. Preparation of holes for planting trees

If the planting of fruit trees is planned in the spring, then the soil and pits begin to be prepared in the fall. To do this, a hole is dug under each seedling. square shape 50-70 cm deep, with sides from 1 to 1.5 m. Cut branches, old leaves, compost, tops and so on are laid in the pit. From above they fall asleep with earth and leave to rot until spring planting.

For autumn planting, pits are prepared a month in advance. At the bottom, for good drainage, put crushed stone, a layer of broken bricks and large river sand. Then the planting pit is filled with rotted manure, peat and complex mineral fertilizers using a layer-by-layer method. From above, fertilizers are covered with soil mixed with humus, 5-10 cm thick.

Soil is poured into the pit in the form of a cone.

3. Planting seedlings in prepared soil

After the soil has settled, a stable wooden stake is hammered into the center of the pit. Reliable support will not let the wind swing young plant and will not allow the formation of voids between the soil and the roots.

The day before planting, broken twigs and roots are removed from the seedlings, they are renewed, slightly pruned to healthy tissues with secateurs.

Planting Trees - Rule #1

The root neck of the seedling should be above the soil level. Significant deepening of the plant stem into the soil leads to decay of the bark and further death.

It is quite easy to determine the root neck on the trunk - this is the border of the transition of the bark of a tree from greenish to milky brown.

When landing, the top of the earthen cone should rest against the base of the trunk. The roots are carefully straightened along the slope and covered with soil, focusing on the root collar. It should be 5-6 cm above the ground surface.

While falling asleep with black soil, the tree is shaken a little so that the voids between the roots are filled with soil. Otherwise, they may dry out.

Near the trunk, the earth is slightly compacted with a foot and watered with a weak stream of water with the expectation of 3 buckets per tree. Waiting for the soil to settle a little. Water again and compact well.

After watering, the roots may stick out a little from the ground. They will go into the ground in a few days.

Planting a tree from a container

Planting a seedling with an earthen clod

Tree care after planting

In the first two years of life, young trees require a lot of attention. Moderate is important regular watering and top dressing, loosening and weed control. In dry times, the soil must be carefully loosened after each watering or occasional rain.

Mulching should not be ignored trunk circles. Rotting mulch (cut grass of cereals) performs several useful functions at once:

provides good aeration of the root system;

protects the earth from drying out;

does not allow weeds to germinate;

protects against freezing of the soil in winter;

provides seedlings with organic nutrients;

prevents the appearance of soil crust.

Excessively moist soils do not mulch.

For the winter, the trees are insulated by tying the trunk with burlap or coniferous branches.

The first pruning of young trees is carried out in the second year of life.

Planting seedlings of fruit trees with your own hands - tips

How to plant an apple tree?

Early varieties of some apple trees may bloom in the first spring. But they are not yet developed enough to form in autumn full harvest. Therefore, for good survival, the buds are cut off even before they bloom. In the second year (provided that the plant develops without problems), a couple of dozen flowers are left on the tree.

Among the most easily adaptable varieties of apple trees, there are: Moscow Pear, Antonovka Ordinary, Summer Striped, Cowberry, Dessert Isaeva, Gift to Grafsky, Cinnamon New. Good varieties: "Chinese Kerr", "Arkadik", "Oval", "Medunitsa" and "Candy".

How to plant a pear?

Most types of pears known to summer residents do not show special requirements to exposure and soil composition. But pear trees take root and grow better on humus-rich, loose soils and well-lit areas. Young plants do not tolerate drought. In the early years, they need to be watered abundantly and often. Pears begin to bear fruit at the age of 3-8 years.

As a result of hybridization of species, specialists in the field of breeding have deduced great amount interesting varieties. Among the popular ones: "Pear Klapp's Favorite", "Pear Lada", "Nectar Pear", "Cathedral", "Allegro", "Dibrovskaya", "Beauty Chernenko".

How to plant cherries

The fruiting of cherries largely depends on the place of planting on the site. Incorrect choice leads to poor growth and poor yields. The root system of cherries, located close to the surface, is sensitive to drought. Therefore, loosening after watering is done very carefully.

The gardens of our country are dominated by local varieties, winter-hardy: "Oktava", "Purple", "Kent", "Shubinka", "Rossoshskaya black", "Rusinka", "Vole", "Youth", "Robin", "Prima" , "Turgenevka", "Lyubskaya", "Zhukovskaya", "Generous".

Planting a tree with your own hands - video

How to grow a tree from a seed?

Well-ripened seeds are washed and soaked in a stimulating solution for three days (the water is changed daily). Plant immediately in the fall. For planting in the spring, store for several months in freezer for the purpose of stratification.

Keep in mind that trees grown with your own hands from seeds grow very tall. Indeed, unlike the cultivated fruit trees, which are offered by all nurseries, they are not initially grafted onto a dwarf stock.

It would seem that planting apple and pear seedlings on personal plot- one of the simplest agricultural activities, because these trees are not capricious, unpretentious, and they need ascetic care, that is, minimal. All this is partly true - but already at the stage of full growth. And when you're just about to break Orchard or you just want to plant a lonely fruit tree in the garden, you need to carefully prepare and not just “stick” the seedling into the ground, but do it according to all the rules of agricultural technology. Only then will the young tree begin to grow and in a few years it will delight you with the first, albeit not abundant, but self-grown fruits.

It is impossible to overestimate the importance of the place where the garden is located. Ideal Conditions are rare. Most often these are cold lowlands or depleted collective farm fields, or swamps, or bare sand, or steep slopes. Even within the same gardening partnership, the plots differ in their microclimate. But any land can give birth, if it is ennobled, and suitable crops are selected.

When deciding on a site for fruit trees, you need to pay attention to the presence of other plants outside it. Their role is to protect the delicate culture from the northern winds.

This article tells you how to properly plant apple and pear trees and how to avoid possible errors when laying out a garden.

Preparation of pits for planting apple and pear trees on the site (with photo)

It is impossible to improve the whole area. The way out is the local cultivation of the soil, for which they dig landing pits for planting apple and pear trees, which can have any shape (preferably cylindrical), so that after filling them with soil and watering, the soil settles evenly with the root system of the seedling.

The poorer the soil, the larger the holes should be. To get even rows, before digging holes on the site, you need to outline the landing sites by installing stakes on them. For planting seedlings of apple and pear trees, it is necessary to have a planting board 1.5 m long and 8-10 cm wide with three notches: one in the middle part and two at the ends. Landing pits are prepared in advance, for spring planting they are dug in the fall. In the process of weathering the bottom and walls of the pit, ferrous compounds harmful to plant roots turn into oxides. The roots of seedlings penetrate more freely outside the pit.

In preparation for planting apple and pear trees, a board is laid on the ground before digging, aligning the middle recess with the base of the stake located at the landing point. Control pegs are hammered near the end recesses. When the pit is ready, the recesses of the landing board are again combined with the control pegs and a stake is driven back into the bottom against the middle recess.

Of course, if the landing pits are bigger size, there will be no harm. On the contrary, the roots of the tree will become more free, and its life expectancy will increase. It is even better to deepen the bottom of the pit and, before filling it with vegetable soil, make drainage from broken bricks.

The preparation of holes for planting apple and pear trees in areas with poor sandy soils should be more thorough: they dig an increased diameter to create favorable conditions for root growth. So, for apple and pear trees, the width in such conditions is increased to 1.5 m or more.

Before planting apple and pear trees on heavy clay soils, it is more expedient to dig holes wider and shallower, since water can stagnate at the bottom of the deep ones and have a detrimental effect on the roots. Arrange sand cushions in pits with heavy clay soil and clay layers in pits on sandy soils Not recommended.

In addition, it is better to bring vegetable soil to heavy clay soils and plant seedlings on a mound 0.5-1 m high and 3 m in diameter. position.

In order to plant apple and pear trees in the way that proper agricultural technology suggests, it is recommended to use humus, peat with the addition of lime, and semi-rotted manure for soil cultivation. Regardless of the soil, phosphorus (usually superphosphate) and potash are added to each planting hole. mineral fertilizers. The best potash fertilizer when planting apple and pear trees wood ash, at the introduction of which lime is not required, except perhaps a small amount. For each planting hole under an apple tree, up to 1 kg of superphosphate and 1 kg of ash or 100 g of potassium chloride are added. Immediately after acquiring the seedlings, all leaves are removed from them, and the roots are dipped in water for a short time, wrapped in a damp cloth and synthetic film.

These photos of planting apple and pear trees show how the seedling pits are pre-prepared:

Photo gallery

How to plant apple and pear seedlings in the garden (with video)

Before planting apple or pear trees, if the roots were dried, then the seedlings are kept in water for 1-1.5 days before planting. To develop faster and better root system, you need to soak it in solutions of growth stimulants (honey, heteroauxin).

Plant fruit crops it is possible in spring (April - early May) and autumn (late September - early October), but practice shows that most plants develop better during spring planting (before bud break), since they can freeze during severe winters in autumn.

For proper fit apple and pear trees garden plot seedlings are immediately dug in, regardless of when they are planted: in autumn or spring. For spring planting, they are dropped in a dry, flood-free and wind-protected place into a ditch in an inclined position (at an angle of 30-45 °) with crowns to the south, sprinkled with soil on 1/2 of the trunk and covered with spruce branches to protect against rodents. Digging depth 30-50 cm.

The technology for planting apple and pear trees involves the mandatory removal of damaged parts of the roots before placing seedlings in planting pits. The ends of larger roots are cleaned with a garden knife, but so that the entire root system is no shorter than 30 cm. The more roots, the longer and more branched they are, the better the seedlings take root and grow faster.

Before properly planting pears or apple trees, a small conical mound of fertile soil should be poured into the bottom of the pit. It is more convenient to plant together: one sets the seedling on the north side of the stake, so that at noon the shade protects it from drying out. In this case, it is desirable to arrange the tree so that its southern side looks south, and the northern side faces north. The cardinal points of a tree are simply determined. Grafting is usually on the north side of the rootstock (near the roots of the neck). The wound left from the cut of the stem part of the game is located on south side. It is possible to determine the southern north side seedlings also according to the color of the bark on the trunk: darker, brown - on the south side, light, greenish - on the north.

When planting pear and apple trees, remember that the root neck of seedlings should be 3-4 cm above ground level.

The root system is dipped in a clay mash. The roots are carefully spread over the surface of the mound. The second planter at this time throws wet soil on the roots, making sure that it evenly covers them, leaving no voids (when filling the roots, the seedling is shaken several times). Having fallen asleep about 3/4 of the hole, they trample down the earth, starting from the edges.

If the seedling sank at the same time, it is slightly lifted up to the desired height. After that, the soil is poured until the pit is completely filled and compacted again; first along the edges, and then near the trunk. For proper planting of apple and pear seedlings on a dwarf rootstock with high budding, the trees are grounded so that the grafting site is only slightly above the soil level, and a significant part of the rootstock is deepened to increase the stability of the future tree due to additional tiers of roots. It is important not to bury the grafting site, otherwise the graft may move to its own roots.

In order to plant pears and apple trees in the way that proper agricultural technology suggests, immediately after planting the seedling with any soft material tied with a loop in the form of a figure eight to the stake: at first - freely (so that the seedling can settle along with the soil), and then - more rigidly. A roller is made around the planting pit, and the plant is watered with 2-3 buckets of water. If, after watering, the seedling settles along with the soil, it is carefully pulled out until the root collar reaches the level of the soil.

As soon as the soil absorbs water, it must be mulched with humus or peat; at autumn planting can be sprinkled sawdust for warming the root system. The stake is cut so that the lower branch is 5-8 cm higher than it.

many owners garden plots dig planting pits immediately before planting and in the absence of humus, peat and semi-rotted manure. In this case, the pits must be filled with the fertile soil of the upper layer, taken out during digging, and the missing part of the soil should be added from the row spacing.

To better understand how apple and pear trees are planted, watch the video below:

Caring for apple and pear trees after planting: pruning rules

Regardless of when the seedlings were planted (spring or autumn), they must be cut to bring the aerial part of the plant into line with the root system, which was badly damaged and decreased when dug up in the nursery.

Forming pruning of seedlings when caring for apple and pear trees after planting should be done in early spring, before bud break. autumn pruning can contribute to damage to seedlings in winter.

After landing on the central conductor, a well-developed bud is selected from the side of the lower cut to continue the shoot at a distance of about 40-50 cm from the base of the upper skeletal branch. Above this bud, a spine 5-6 cm long is left to tie the continuation shoot, and the rest of the central conductor is cut off. All the buds on the stem of the seedling are broken out.

As a result of pruning, many shoots from awakened buds will grow on the branches. During summer period they will need to be removed or shortened several times, leaving several pieces on each skeletal branch. Only the continuation shoot is shortened with strong growth next spring. The upper side branch is cut off at apple trees no shorter than 30-35 cm (about half of its length), so that the top of the cut branch is 20-30 cm below the shortened conductor. Then the remaining branches are aligned approximately at the level of the cut of the upper branch. At the same time, weak branches shorten less (or do not cut at all). The intermediate branches of the crown are not removed, but shortened by half the length in order to gradually turn them into temporary semi-skeletal and overgrowing branches.

The pear grows weakly in the year of planting and almost does not need pruning in the spring. In the future, the seedlings must be looked after so that the apple trees annually give an increase in annual shoots of 30-35 cm. But an excessively large increase should not be allowed either: the trees will be pampered, which will affect their winter hardiness. For this, during active growth shoots are pinched (pinched). Pinching the top stops growth, and the process of lignification of the entire annual shoot begins. Regardless of the growth rate, competitor shoots and those that need to be transferred from growth to fruit shoots are also pinched. If the upper bud on the shoot or neighboring ones awaken to new growth, then 2-4 leaves should be allowed to form and pinch the top again.

In the first month after planting apple and pear trees, according to the rules for cultivating fruit trees, seedlings are watered every 6-7 days, in the second and third months - every 15-20 days.

You need to loosen the ground under the trees with a garden fork or a shovel. The shovel blade is usually recommended to be placed along the direction of root growth, and not across, so as not to cut the roots. In fact, you feel better the contact of the shovel with the root in the transverse direction.

Watch the video correct pruning apple and pear trees after planting in the garden:

Incorrect spacing between apple and pear trees and other planting errors

Some novice gardeners neglect the rules for planting apple and pear trees, making a number of mistakes.

First mistake. Gardeners bring seedlings (or rather, semi-formed trees) 2-3 m high to their plots for planting in mid-May or August, hoping that adult plants will yield crops already this or in next year. And, as a rule, they are cruelly mistaken. Literally a month later, these plants are dried up, since a weak root system is not able to ensure the vital activity of a powerful aerial part.

Gardeners make the second mistake, trying on a relatively small plot land as soon as possible more plants. As the plants grow, they shade each other, elongated crowns are formed. As a result, the yield decreases, more diseases and pests appear. Meanwhile, the distance between pears and apple trees during planting should be significant. Of course, it is psychologically difficult to force yourself to plant small seedlings of apple and pear trees at a distance of 5-6 m from each other, leaving free large area. If there is not enough space for the trees, their immunity will decrease. Weak seedlings will not resist diseases and are likely to be actively attacked by pests. However, the first 3-4 years it can be used for planting early tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, zucchini, carrots, radishes, table beets, radishes, potatoes, onions, lettuce, spinach, peas, beans, flower plants.

The distance from pears and apple trees when planting compact crops in a garden that is not even three years old should be about 0.5-1 m from the trunk. After the fourth year, they retreat from the stem by 1.5-2 m. And also keep in mind that fruit seedlings should be at a distance of at least 3 m from cables, gas pipelines, pipes and underground utilities. AT young garden cannot be grown tall plants(sunflower, corn), strongly shading fruit trees. Not recommended for growing between rows berry bushes and strawberries.

The third mistake happens when planting seedlings. Usually, gardeners prepare planting pits ahead of time, and make them directly when purchasing seedlings. The loosened earth is gradually compacted, and the plants are buried. Do not forget that according to the rules for planting pears and apple trees, pits must be prepared in advance.

The fourth mistake gardeners make when planting trees on the border with their neighbors. This does not take into account that the root system will go to the neighbors, and the crown will hang over their site.

The fifth mistake is the incorrect formation of the crown of fruit trees, on which extra branches are left, as well as skeletal branches at an acute angle of departure from the trunk, which leads to a break in the tree during the fruiting period.

Look at the photo of how pears and apple trees are planted in the garden: