We grow strawberries with our own hands - tips and tricks. Optimal timing for autumn planting strawberries

In strawberries great amount nutrients, it is incredibly tasty and fragrant, therefore it is rightfully called the queen of berries. Every summer resident wants to grow on his site big harvest, but some are afraid to face difficulties, because they do not. In fact, you just need to provide quality care and the right technology planting, in turn, the berry will respond with abundant fruiting.

Site preparation

1. It is required to completely clear the ground of large debris, including branches, foliage and sticks.
2. Then the entire territory of the potential bed is dug up, preferably deep, approximately on the bayonet of a shovel.
3. Further, fertilizer is scattered at least one bucket of humus per square meter.
4. It remains only to mark the site for future bushes.

Ideal bed size

After all the preparatory work is completed, you can proceed to immediate landing. There are certain nuances here:

• the size of the place should be about 40-50 cm;
• each bush is located 30-40 cm apart, so that the plant can develop normally;
• the ideal width of the beds is about 20 cm, and between each hole there should be a furrow of 30-40 cm;
• it is required to plant a plant from east to west so that the distribution of light is uniform.

It is necessary to send strawberries to the ground very carefully so as not to damage the roots. After completing this stage, we proceed to watering. Each bush is irrigated separately, directly under the root, try not to touch the leaves.

In order for the plant to take root well, it is necessary to use the above scheme. The distance between strawberries when planting is very important to maintain correctly, because if the plants are too close, they will develop much more slowly. Also, improper placement will lead to the rapid spread of various diseases.

The beds, made in compliance with all boundaries, are weeded much easier. If you place the bushes very close to each other, then at the time of weeding you can damage the berries.

In one place, bushes should grow no more than 4 years. Then you need to carefully dig up the seedlings and transfer them to a new place.

Planting schemes for strawberries in the open field

It is important to choose the right neighborhood, the berry must be placed near dill, beets, parsley, lettuce, onions, radishes and beans. The berry is not very good friends with horseradish and cabbage.

There are basic schemes that many gardeners use when planting strawberries.

1. bushes- This technique is the most popular. In accordance with it, rosettes of berries need to be distributed one by one at a distance of 45-60 cm. This is done so that they do not intertwine. You also need to trim the antennae. Only in this way the berry will give a good and big harvest. There are also disadvantages, which include the need for frequent mulching, loosening and removal of whiskers, as well as constant weed control. Thanks to this strawberry planting scheme, you can achieve large fruits, a low likelihood of disease and save a seat.
2. Into the ranks- according to this technique, seedlings must be placed at a distance of 15 cm in one row. Between them you need to leave a gap of 40 cm, so that it is easy to move between plantings. The main advantage is that the plant can not be transplanted for 6 years.
3. nesting- involves the location of one bush in the center, and the rest around it. Thanks to this strawberry planting pattern, a hexagon is obtained, in which nests are formed at a distance of 5-8 cm from each other. In this case, the gap between the bushes in one row should be at least 25 cm. The main disadvantage is the need for a large space for placement. The main advantage is the abundant harvest.
4. carpet scheme planting strawberries in open field considered the simplest and most economical. The use of this method does not involve cutting off the tendrils of the plant. Thus, the berry gets complete freedom development. Strawberries spread throughout the allotted area. With this method, the plant forms the necessary plant mulch, as well as its own microclimate. Benefits include weed control, moisture conservation, and self-mulching. And the main disadvantage of the scheme is the gradual decrease in the fruit.

Greenhouse

For such conditions, early and remontant varieties are perfect, as they give the most maximum yield. The technology of such cultivation is very simple: in order to achieve good result, it is necessary to observe the light and temperature regime and active nutrition.

The most popular scheme for planting strawberries in a greenhouse is the hydroponics method. Such cultivation among farmers is very popular, as it has the following advantages:

• the berry is environmentally friendly;
• the plant is easily transplanted without damaging the roots;
• no need to purchase new ground for transplant;
• pests and diseases are completely absent;
• seedlings do not need to be constantly watered;
• the plant receives required amount nutrients, so it gives a good harvest.

Vertical garden technology

Such a simple structure can be done with your own hands, it is also possible to install drip irrigation, which is located in the middle of the pipe. For manufacturing you will need:

• PVC pipes;
• a thin tube that is installed inside the previous one (must correspond to the length of the main one);
• a tool that can easily cut holes in the racks;
• gravel;
• spunbond or burlap;
• shovel;
• quality soil.

After all the tools and materials have been prepared, it is necessary to cut holes of 20-50 mm in the pipe, in rows. The marking can be arbitrary, but optimally after 10-15 cm. Then you need to prepare a pipe through which drip irrigation, for this, with the help of an awl, holes are formed in it. Irrigation intensity depends on their size and width. Next, two units are assembled together and fixed to each other. A plug is placed in the lower hole, and a watering can is attached to the top.

Then the structure is dug into the ground to a depth of half a meter and is covered with gravel around, compacted. Next, soil is laid in the structure, which, after irrigation, can sink, if necessary, it should be added. The scheme for planting strawberries in a pipe rack is very simple. After the structure is established, young rosettes of bushes are planted in the prepared cells. Everything is carefully sprinkled with earth and drip irrigation is turned on, after which the roots are again slightly covered with soil. You can wait for the first shoots.

Frigo technology

A few decades ago, a new technique appeared that farmers loved so much. In accordance with it, the mother and daughter bushes do not winter in open ground, but are dug out, distributed and transferred to sealed trays. Then they need to be stored at a small negative temperature in cold rooms or in suitable premises. The advantage is a qualitative improvement in yield. After such a winter, the plant is quickly accepted and actively grows. The strawberry planting pattern can be dotted or in rows. Landing is better in April or early May. Fruits appear immediately at the beginning of summer, fruiting is observed until the first frost. It is required to constantly loosen the earth and apply the necessary nitrogen-containing fertilizers during the flowering period.

Planting scheme for Clery strawberries

After purchasing the seeds, you should use the generally accepted recommendations.

1. The best time for planting is the beginning of April or August-September.
2. Seeds are best sent to the ground initially in a greenhouse. When the climate becomes warmer, you can go outside.
3. The plant loves the sun and a lot of light. Fruits that are grown in this way retain all their taste qualities.
4. The beds are best made rectangular. It is highly recommended not to place them close to each other. Under conditions of density, Clery does not bear fruit well.
5. For irrigation, the drip method is chosen.
6. Seedlings are covered in spring, for this, agrospan or film is used.
7. As a top dressing, it is preferable to use chelated trace elements.

Gigantella

The variety is very fruitful and promising, the only thing that needs to be taken into account is all the nuances of care.

1. The plant loves moisture, light and heat. Drip irrigation should be present on the beds.
2. The planting scheme for Gigantella strawberries is very similar to many others, but there are still nuances. No more than 4 bushes should be present per square meter. The distance between them should be 60-70 cm, otherwise the peduncle will get confused, and the berries will lack nutrition due to the thickened root system.
3. The variety is thermophilic, but still does not tolerate heat, burns may appear on the berries.
4. You need to plant only in well-fed soil, for this nitrogen fertilizers are selected during flowering and a mixture of phosphorus, magnesium and potassium during the period of ovary and ripening.
5. Loosening the soil, mulching and removing tendrils is very important for a large crop.

Remontant strawberry

These are varieties that have the ability to bloom several times, so they produce crops throughout the summer, right up to the cold weather.

Strawberries need light, neutral pH soil. Plants are recommended to be planted in the spring, but you can do this at the end of August. The scheme for planting remontant strawberries must be nesting. Caring for her is a little more difficult than for a garden one, and the berry needs more space. It is also necessary for new shoots for rooting. In spring, manure is necessarily introduced into the soil, and if the soil is heavy, then sand.

In mid-May, you can start landing. It is required to leave a distance of at least 65-75 cm between the holes. Young bushes need to be watered systematically. To do this, it is recommended to choose warm water. It is recommended to remove tendrils regularly. In autumn, the plant prepares for winter, namely, all flower stalks and leaves are cut off. It is also required to check the root system so that it is not exposed. Further, the bushes are covered with grass, but only at the time of the onset of frost.

The nuances of growing

1. Plants that bear fruit are recommended to be used for no more than three years, since then the berries become small, and their number is also significantly reduced. After this period, strawberries become more vulnerable to diseases.
2. It is not necessary to allow the formation of antennae, if they are not removed, then the yield will decrease.
3. It is recommended to get sockets for breeding only from annual shrubs, each of which has 5-7 leaves.
4. When there is a desire to breed strawberries seedling way, then this is better to do in February.
5. If you follow the generally accepted patterns of planting strawberries, then you can grow any variety and get the richest harvests.

In this article, we will consider topical issues concerning planting, transplanting and caring for strawberries.

When is it better to plant and transplant strawberries: in spring, summer or autumn, at what time?

Experienced gardeners know all the secrets of growing strawberries, so every year they get a rich harvest of fragrant berries from their beds. The material in this article will be useful for beginners or those who are just planning to grow strawberries.

This berry, although quite common, requires attention and special care. As well as fertilizing the soil, protecting against pests and bacteria, and many other tricks. But if you do everything right, you can enjoy the taste of strawberries grown by yourself.

First of all, it is important to remember that it is necessary to transplant strawberries once every 3-4 years. This period is the most optimal for a good harvest.

After this period, strawberries begin, as the people say, "degenerate". You yourself can notice that after 3-4 years the strawberry bush becomes weak, the berries are getting smaller, and their number also does not please with abundance.

Strawberries need to be transplanted every 3-4 years

Can you transplant strawberries? in early spring both autumn and summer. The weather should be warm outside.

Important: Plant strawberries on a warm overcast day in the evening. Then the plants will take root better.

• As far as timing is concerned, autumn planting preferably completed by the end of September. If the climate allows, then you can wait until October.
• spring planting it is desirable to finish before flowering. It's about April. At this time, active vegetation occurs, the bush will grow and take root.
• rule summer planting: Strawberries are transplanted after fruiting. Approximate planting dates July-August.

Planting dates for strawberries in spring, summer and autumn

Soil preparation for planting, transplanting strawberries

Before planting or transplanting strawberries, you should carefully prepare the ground:

1. Dig up the area.
2. Apply fertilizer no later than 7-10 days before planting.
3. Level the soil, break up the lumps of dirt.

Suitable as a fertilizer:

• Litter
• Humus
• Compost

Important: organic fertilizer applied to the ground at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 m².

Also used for strawberry yield superphosphate and potassium sulfate(60 and 30 gr per 1 m², respectively).

You can fertilize the soil with complex fertilizer, which can be purchased at a specialized store. Ask the seller to tell you which better fit just for strawberries.

Preparing the soil for transplanting strawberries

Important: When planting strawberries in the same place, it is recommended to "treat" the soil. This is done to prevent bacteria, pests.

This is done as follows:

• Pour the area with a solution of soda ash (200 g of soda is taken for a 10 l bucket of water).
• After 2-3 days, the soil should be disinfected with a solution of manganese (add 2-3 g of manganese per 10 l bucket of water).

This procedure must be done before planting strawberries.

Video: Preparing the soil for planting strawberries

After what crops is it better to plant strawberries?

Important: When planting strawberries, crop rotation rules should be taken into account.

Crop rotation- this is the correct alternation of crops in the garden, contributing to good yields.

If potatoes, peppers, cucumbers, eggplants and cabbage were the predecessors of strawberries, then do not expect a good harvest.

It is useful to plant strawberries after parsley, legumes and cereals.

Is it possible to plant strawberries after garlic and onions?

Important: Onions and garlic are the best precursors for strawberries.

Ripe strawberries

Planting and transplanting strawberries in the summer, in August with a mustache: ways, step by step instructions

The mustache propagation method is one of the most commonly used when planting strawberries. Why is this method good?

Sometimes a good variety of strawberries is expensive, and it turns out to buy several bushes good variety. Subsequently, from these few bushes with the help of a mustache, you can grow a whole plantation of strawberries.

To grow a bed of good, high-grade strawberries, it will take a long time to observe the whiskers and select the very best uterine whiskers.

Mustache breeding

It is done like this:

1. In the first year, plant bushes and trim all mustaches, harvest the first crop of berries, identify the best and strongest bushes.
2. After the harvest, that is, the end of summer-beginning of autumn, collect all the selected mother bushes, plant them in a separate area. In the spring, when the time for buds comes, cut off all the buds, but leave the antennae.
3. Leave the largest mustache, small ones can be removed.
4. Leave the whiskers to grow freely until June. Around this time, young rosettes will appear on the mustache.
5. These young sockets should be dug a little into the loose earth and watered.
6. Now you need to wait up to three weeks until the young seedlings grow.
7. Shorten the ends of the mustache during this period, they also need to be watered, loosen the soil, hill up.
8. 2 weeks before transplantation, cut off the mustache from the mother bush. Now the young bushes have switched to their own root nutrition.
9. Now young bushes can be transplanted to a permanent place.

Important: If you plant strawberries in the summer, then over the winter it will take root well, gain strength, and next year you will already harvest your first crop.

The structure of the strawberry bush

What mustache from strawberries should be planted?

If your goal is to grow good strawberries, you need to select the mustache correctly.

Mustaches need the strongest, growing from good quality bushes. The rest of the whiskers, which appear gradually on the bush, must be cut off so that they do not take strength from the mother bush.

Video: How to collect planting material - a mustache?

Planting and transplanting strawberries in the fall with a mustache and dividing the bush: methods, step by step instructions

Important: Young bushes should be planted during autumn planting before September 15th. Landing later threatens to freeze the bushes.

How to transplant strawberries with a mustache has already been described above. Let's try to deal with such a method as dividing a bush.

The division of the bush is considered by some to be an emergency method of propagating strawberries. It is advisable to use it in such cases:

1. When there are not enough seedlings to propagate strawberries in the garden.
2. When a strawberry has no or little mustache (for example, remontant strawberry).
3. When the strawberry is already producing small fruits and it needs a transplant.

At the end of the season, from one point of growth, a young plant has many points of growth. This large bush can be divided into many small ones. Select the roots that are the strongest and most solid. Leaves should not be affected.

• Clean the roots of old strawberry bushes of brown dead parts. Leave only the part of the plant with live roots.
• In order for the new bush to become stronger, it should be spudded. Only the growth point (heart) cannot be covered, otherwise the bush will die.
• If the weather is hot, then shade the planted bushes with straw, grass, make a canopy and water daily until the bushes take root.

IMPORTANT: When propagating strawberries by dividing the bush, if propagated shortly after harvest, you will get a decent harvest from the transplanted bush the next summer. When breeding with a mustache, such a result cannot be achieved the next year.

Division of a strawberry bush

Planting strawberries in August, autumn on agrofibre: methods, step by step instructions

Important: Agrofibre is a breathable material that is used to cover the garden bed, and then seedlings are planted. Thanks to agrofibre, labor costs are reduced and productivity is increased.

Advantages planting strawberries on agrofiber:

• Protects strawberries from weeds;
• Dirt falls on the berries less during rain;
• Protection of berries from pests;
• After watering, moisture is stored under the agrofibre;
• Under agrofibre, strawberries will painlessly survive frosts.

For planting strawberries, black agrofibre with a density of 60 g / m² is most often used. Before you buy agrofibre, calculate the size of the beds.

This is what agrofibre looks like

How to plant strawberries on agrofibre:

1. Prepare the soil as described above.
2. Lay agrofiber on the bed.
3. Fasten the agrofibre along the edges with bricks, then on each side with wire studs.
4. Then with a knife you need to outline the landing sites of the bushes.
5. The cuts must be made crosswise.
6. Wrap the edges of the cuts inward, plant a strawberry bush shallowly.
7. After planting all the bushes, the bed should be watered from a hose with irrigation.

Important: To have access to the beds, put a board on the agrofibre, thus making a path. Thanks to such a path, the agrofibre will not deteriorate.

Video: Planting strawberries on agrofibre

How to water strawberries after planting?

After transplanting, strawberries need watering. However, you should not overdo it in this matter. From an excess of moisture, the roots will begin to rot. Also, water should not fall on the outlet, otherwise the bush will die.

For manual watering, it is better to take warm settled water. In warm weather, it is enough to water strawberries once a week early in the morning. When the rainy season begins, no additional watering is needed.

During the flowering period, strawberries especially need watering. Irrigation rate is approximately 10 l / m². When strawberries bloom, you need to use drip irrigation of the soil.

Important: You can not water strawberries little by little and often. Such actions can lead to fungal diseases.

Drip irrigation of strawberries

What can be planted next to strawberries?

Good neighbors for strawberries are the following crops:

• Parsley
• Dill
• Salad
• Radish
• Beet
• Beans

How to feed strawberries in August, in the fall after transplantation?

For fertility, strawberries should be fed. Both organic and mineral fertilizers.

Organic fertilizers:

1. Humus
2. Compost
3. chicken manure

From mineral fertilizers for the growth and harvest of strawberries, you need:

• Potassium
• Phosphorus
• Magnesium

Nitrogen fertilizers are responsible for the red color of the berry. Potassium - affect the taste properties. If the ends of the leaves turn brown, this indicates a lack of potassium.

Important: Strawberries should be fed in several stages. The first time before planting during tillage. The second time - after the harvest. The last time you should fertilize in the fall.

Some believe that properly prepared soil before planting (transplanting) does not require feeding for about 3 years.

Nevertheless, most experts advise fertilizing strawberries, the yield and taste of berries depend on this.

After harvesting, plants need top dressing to restore strength in the form of complex mineral fertilizers.

Top dressing strawberries

Autumn top dressing should be completed before mid-September. You can feed with mullein, chicken droppings. Fertilizers are not used pure form and diluted in water. If you feed strawberries with pure litter, the plants will simply “burn out”.

Important: Fertilizers should be applied between the rows of strawberry bushes or under the bush, but not on the leaves. The aisles are covered with cow humus, thus forming a mulch for top dressing for several years.

Dilute litter or humus with water in the following proportion: 1 part of humus per 10 liters of water. Be sure to let this mixture brew for at least a day. Then you can add a glass to the solution wood ash and 20 grams of potash fertilizers.

Strawberries are a delicate fruit. With proper transplanting, care and feeding, you will be able to reap a good harvest from your beds for many years.

Video: How to feed strawberries?

Strawberries are considered one of the most delicious and at the same time easy to grow berries. The fruits consist of tender, juicy pulp with a delicious aroma and taste.

Strawberries are very nutritious, contain valuable chemical substances: organic acids, dyes, tannins, calcium salts, iron metals, a lot of sugar, phosphorus, vitamins A, B, C.

Strawberry is a perennial plant that occupies a niche between shrub and herbaceous forms. It has three types of shoots: shortened stems, mustaches, peduncles. It is easy to grow it on any site, observing only a few rules. We will talk about how to properly grow strawberries in this article.

How to grow strawberries on the site?

Where to plant strawberries? Choose a place

Planting strawberries is best done on flat irrigated areas, protected from the wind, where there are no perennial weeds. You can plant bushes between gooseberries or currants. It is better not to plant strawberries in a garden with large trees, in the shade it will not bear fruit well, moreover, when spraying trees, dangerous pesticides can get on it.

Strawberries are unpretentious, can grow on any soil, but still, it gives the greatest yield on light soils rich in humus. Poor fruiting on saline soils, limestone, with a close occurrence of groundwater.

The highest yield of strawberries is observed in the first year, which is why, when harvesting several crops, strawberries must be alternated with other crops. It is better to do this every 3 or 4 years.

It is very important to prepare the soil well before planting. The richer it is in nutrients, the more powerful the root system will be, therefore, the fruiting will be more productive.

To successfully grow strawberries, the soil must be prepared a month before planting. Dig up to a depth of 30 cm. For planting in the spring, the soil is prepared in the fall. For 1 sq.m. up to 8 kg of compost, about 100 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium salt are added. Loosen and level the soil.

How to plant strawberries correctly?

Planting strawberries can be done from spring to autumn, but best time for planting bushes - the end of summer, the beginning of autumn. The bushes must have time to take root, get stronger in order to endure the winter.

When choosing planting material, give preference to plants with a well-formed rosette, with 3-4 leaves, in the center of the growth bud should be undamaged, dense, green. Roots up to 6 cm long should not be overdried, have a good lobe.

There are several ways to plant strawberries. Simple strawberries are best planted in rows. On the prepared plantation, rows should be marked at a distance of 50 cm from each other. In each row, prepare shallow pits, between which there should be from 20 to 30 cm, fill them with water.

Two tendrils can be planted in one hole. Before planting, cut the roots to 4 cm so that they do not bend in the ground. Sprinkle bushes with earth, press. Further, a little secret, as if pulling each bush up a little by the leaves, this must be done so that the heart (rosette) is cleared of the soil and does not rot in the future.

After planting, it is important to properly water the strawberries. You need to water around the bush and make sure that water does not get into the center. Before stable rooting of seedlings, strawberries need to be watered both in the morning and in the evening.

Some gardeners use black film when growing strawberries. Under it, the soil warms up well, mustaches do not take root, there are no weeds, and the soil remains loose and moist. At the same time, the berries are always clean and dry.

Continuing the theme of planting strawberries, we want to offer you an instructional video on how to plant strawberries correctly.

Propagation of strawberries

Continuing the topic of how to grow strawberries, it is important to reveal the issue of its reproduction. Strawberries propagate in several ways: by dividing bushes, by seeds, or by seedlings from mustaches.

• To get the latest high-yielding varieties, for growing remontant strawberries without a mustache, seeds are used.
• Varieties that do not have mustache growth are propagated by seedlings obtained by dividing the bush. The bush is dug out of the ground, divided into bunches with roots, which are then planted.

The main method of reproduction, the fastest and most reliable, is mustache seedlings. Ready rooted shoots are dug up, separated from the mother plant, the roots are cut to 6-7 cm, extra leaves, leaving 3-4 leaves.

Seedlings should have a well-developed bud (core), an overgrown root system. The dug seedlings are dipped into an earthen mash for a while so that the roots do not dry out. It is better to plant it on the same day.

How to care for strawberries?

Soil for strawberries and fertilizer

In early spring, it is necessary to clean the strawberry plantation with a rake. All dry leaves, dead mustaches, dried bushes are raked out, they are carriers of pests and diseases.

After that, the soil should be well fertilized with mineral fertilizers, humus should be applied and loosened well. Throughout the growing season, the soil should not contain weeds, be always loosened and well, but moderately watered. When the ovaries begin to form, the soil must be moist, the yield will depend on this.

For 1 sq.m. up to 30 liters of water are consumed, after each harvest, refreshing watering is carried out - up to 10 liters per 1 sq. m.

Mulching strawberries

When ovaries begin to form, it is recommended to stop loosening the soil and mulch. best material for this - rye or wheat straw. So that the weed seeds and grains in it do not sprout, the material must be prepared in advance: shake the straw, moisten with water and leave in the sun, the seeds will germinate.

After the straw dries well, you can use it as a mulch. For the same purposes, hay is suitable, cut before the formation of seeds in the grass.

On the market, especially for mulching, you can buy Agril black covering material.

Soil mulching allows you to grow large and sweet strawberries: retain moisture, prevent the growth of weeds, help ripe berries not to rot, better color, stay dry, facilitate their collection.

If strawberries are watered by rain, mulching is carried out to a thickness of up to 7 cm in a continuous layer. When irrigating along the grooves, mulching is carried out only under the bushes, leaving aisles for irrigation.

After fruiting ends, all the straw, and with it dry shoots, leaves, are raked and burned. At the same time, all pests and foci of diseases are destroyed.

Further watering and fertilizing strawberries

After fruiting is completed, the plant begins to grow new roots, whiskers, leaves. At this time, you need to feed the bushes with organic and mineral fertilizers, water and loosen the soil. This will ensure the normal growth of new shoots. For 1 sq.m. up to 3 kg of humus, up to 30 g of superphosphates, up to 15 g of saltpeter, 20 g of potassium salt are added.

In summer, the soil should be maintained in a loose, moderately moist, weed-free state. This will allow future color buds to form correctly.

However, it should be noted that excessive nutrition can affect the excessive growth of the vegetative mass, this can lead to stretching, thickening of plants, and the formation of gray rot. So irrigation and fertilization during this period should be optimal.

Frost - how to save strawberries?

During the flowering of strawberries in the middle regions of Russia, frosts are often observed. How to protect the future harvest from them? To combat frost, smoke piles are made around the area with strawberries, they should not burn much, but emit a lot of smoke.

How to make a smoke pile? A stake is driven into the ground, around which dry combustible material (needles, straw, brushwood, shavings) is laid down. On top of it - straw manure, tops, raw leaves. All this is covered with an earthen layer up to 6 cm.

If the soil temperature drops to zero, a stake is removed from the pile, and a torch is inserted in its place. Smoke should continue for two hours after sunrise.

Strawberry flowers can be protected by sprinkling, it starts before the temperature drops, and continues after sunrise until all the ice is gone from the plants.

Is it possible to grow strawberries all year round?

Is it possible to grow strawberries not only in spring and summer, but also in winter, autumn, that is all year round? This question interests many amateur gardeners. Yes, you can grow strawberries throughout the year, not only in greenhouses, but even in an apartment. For this, special remontant varieties of strawberries were bred.

Such strawberries do not like multiple transplants, so for it you need to immediately choose a convenient container for growing. In it, it will grow and winter. Most unpretentious variety remontant strawberry is called "Elizabeth II".

Each individual plant will need 3 liters of soil. If strawberries will be planted in a pot or jar, choose a larger container. In boxes and containers, bushes should grow at a distance of up to 20 cm from each other. A popular method of growing is in bags, in this case more than five crops per year can be harvested.

The main condition for growing a remontant variety is good lighting; fluorescent lamps are used for this. It is also necessary to provide a comfortable temperature and ventilation. A balcony or a heated greenhouse is best.

How to grow strawberry seeds?

Strawberry seeds can be grown and planted both in the garden and in pots.
It is not difficult to do this if you follow the following rules:

• To collect seeds, you need to select a strawberry variety that has not been grafted, otherwise it will not be possible to achieve the desired results. Often the seeds of grafted varieties do not even germinate.
• Opt for a ripe dark red berry with soft flesh.
• Strawberries must be placed in a bowl of water, covered with a lid and left for the fermentation process for 4 days.
• Using a fine sieve, wipe the softened fruit through it and separate the seeds with a spoon. This must be done with care so as not to damage the seeds.
• Rinse the seeds directly in a sieve under running water.
• Carefully select the seeds and place them on a linen towel. Leave to dry for five days.
• After the seeds dry well, separate them with a thin needle from each other, place them in a paper bag. Store in a cool place.
• Do not forget to sign the bag: strawberry variety, date when the seeds were collected.

How to grow strawberries - video

We offer you a video about proper cultivation strawberries.

pruning strawberries

Spring strawberry care

Secrets of efficient strawberry cultivation for a good harvest

1. Strawberry planting material

2. Sowing strawberries

3. Planting strawberries in the ground

4. Care for strawberries

5. Strawberry ripening

6. Preparing strawberries for winter

Strawberries are one of the most delicious berries that are loved and grown almost everywhere. This culture is quite unpretentious and productive. It finds the greatest distribution in personal and summer cottages.
In order to grow this wonderful berry, you need to prepare a bed with breathable, nutritious soil in advance and take care of healthy seedlings.

How to choose the right place for planting strawberries

One year before planting

In the proposed strawberry garden, fertilize and plant radishes, lettuce, dill, peas or garlic. These plants are the best predecessors of strawberries. After harvesting them, carry out summer sowing of the site with green manure (mustard, oats, beans).

The worst place to place a strawberry garden is on the northeast side of your plot between garden trees. The most delicious berries are given by the garden bed that basks in the sun all day, so place the strawberries on sunny side your site. Demanding and to the neighborhood, she does not like next to her, tomatoes, and. Strawberries and trees with an extensive root system also interfere. By the way, despite the fact that strawberries do not like potatoes as their neighbor, they grow remarkably in those beds that were occupied by potatoes last season! just after potatoes, experts advise planting strawberries.

It is better to plant strawberries early, autumn planting reduces the yield by almost three times.

Prepare the area for planting strawberries in advance, be sure to add compost and humus. For early plantings, prepare the soil no later than 15 days in advance.
Take a well-lit garden bed for planting strawberries. Select its area based on the future harvest, which can reach up to 1 kg / m2.
Have a site with sandy or loamy soil, such soil both retains moisture and passes its excess. With sufficient humus content, it is ideal for growing strawberries.
Place strawberry varieties in separate rows, do not mix them in one lane. It is worth trying the method of narrow (about 80 cm) ridges in which to form a two-line planting of strawberries of the same variety. Make the distance between the ridges about 1000 cm.
It is good to compact the ground around the planted seedling with such an effort that there are no voids around the root.
Provide sufficient watering and top dressing with fertilizer solutions.

It is forbidden:

Strawberry seedlings are bought or grown from seeds.

It is better to buy seedlings with closed roots, in pots.
- the length of the roots must be at least 5 cm.
- seedlings should have 2-3 good leaves.

Do not try to buy seedlings with flowers. For better survival of strawberry seedlings, they still have to be cut. After all, what is better for you for this bush to give you 3-4 berries this year and the same number next, or wait until next year and reap a good harvest from the bush?

Growing strawberries: soil preparation

The first thing to do is to sprinkle 2-3 buckets of organic matter per square meter on the surface. You can also directly prepare the soil for each plant. To do this, make a hole 25x25x25 and fill this hole with the following mixture:

1 bucket of earth from the garden;
1 bucket of compost;
1 bucket of rotted horse manure or a bucket of compost with 2 liters. biohumus;
2 cups of ash;

Mix all this and fill the wells with this mixture.

Planting seedlings of strawberries in the month of May. In general, if you have seedlings with a closed root system (in cups), then you can plant at least all summer, but if you have an open root system (pulled out from a neighbor), then they are planted only in spring (in May) or already in e. when planting strawberries, we observe the depth of planting: the top of the strawberry should not be in the ground and should not stick out much from the ground. After that, water the seedlings abundantly.

The land after planting must be mulched. And this must be done constantly, throughout the summer. Therefore, in some cases it is more convenient to purchase a special film for mulching, make small holes in it, and plant strawberry seedlings in these small holes. Thus, you will protect your garden from weeds, and you will also have to water your strawberries less often. But if you use mulching film, then you will need to fill the ground with compost in advance for several years in advance.

Growing strawberries: planting scheme

For planting strawberry seedlings, it is very important to choose a sunny place. To keep it well ventilated.

At conventional cultivation strawberries, it is planted in two rows in the garden.

If you use natural agricultural technology, then the bushes will be crowded, so they are planted in a checkerboard pattern with a distance of 50 cm between the bushes.

At first, it seems that there is a lot of free space, but after a year, strawberry bushes will turn into huge bushes, and for sure, after that there will be no free space. You can also generally plant bushes in one row in the garden and leave a distance of 50 cm between the bushes. It is best to plant strawberries in the evening, pinch the longest root before planting, cut off the leaves, leaving no more than three. The survival rate with such a landing is almost 100%.

Strawberry care and watering strawberries

And the first question that a summer resident has is how to properly water strawberries, how much water is needed to water strawberries?
Strawberries are demanding for watering. In hot weather, strawberries should be watered 2-3 times a week, the ground around the bushes should be saturated, then it will be easier for the root system to access moisture. During flowering, watering should be limited, preferably if allowed. weather It's better to stop it altogether. Once a season, feed strawberries with slurry. A good effect is given by falling asleep under the bushes of pine or spruce needles, then the earth is not covered with a crust, moisture is retained. Pine needles can be replaced with dry straw. The gardener should be aware that strawberries experience an increased need for water in the spring when the leaves grow, if there was a dry winter. Then it is necessary to water the plants during the flowering period, during the ripening of the berries, after harvesting - during the budding and, if the weather is dry.

Feeding and processing strawberries in the first year of planting

• after 2 weeks, watering and spraying "Shine 2 concentrate" begins once a week;
• twice a month, add 10 granules to the above solution healthy garden"and" Ecoberin ";
• one month after planting: according to the sheet (from reverse side leaf) infusion of biohumus (1 glass of biohumus per 10 liters of water, insist with and dilute in a ratio of 1:1). Such top dressing is done 1 time in two weeks;
• treatment with the drug "Dachnik" from the weevil a month after planting and in mid-August;
• in early August, under each strawberry bush (around the bush), pour half a glass of ash and water the strawberries well.
• the second half of August - the last top dressing with biohumus infusion on the leaf.

In the first year of planting strawberries, we remove all flower stalks (flowers) and remove all whiskers. Of course, I want to try the berries, but firstly, these berries will still not be very tasty, and secondly, you should be worried about the survival rate of the bush and a good wintering so that you can enjoy strawberries next year.

Slugs often spoil strawberries. If you have the opportunity, climatic conditions allow, then great way prevention against these pests are ordinary frogs. They thrive in humid climates, do well and fight slugs great! Frogs on the site can live in greenhouses, it is always humid there, they really like it.

Care for planting strawberries of the second and subsequent years

• As the snow melted, we remove the old leaves and spray or sprinkle over the foliage with a solution of HB-101 (30 drops per 10 liters of water).
• A week later, we do the treatment with the drug "Dachnik" from the weevil.
• The beds remain closed with covering material No. 30 until flowering
• The leaf is fed with biohumus infusion 2 weeks after sanitary pruning
• Top dressing on the sheet as soon as the flower stalks begin to move forward
• As soon as the peduncles swell, before flowering during the summer, we water and spray with "Shine 2" once a week or "Shine 10"
• Once a month, add Healthy Garden and Ecoberin to the Radiance 2 solution

Feeding is especially important when growing remontant strawberry varieties!

Propagation of strawberries

The division of the bush

Dig up a well-developed strawberry bush and divide it into 2-3 bushes, try to keep the roots without damage. Thus restore the estimated number of plants for planting.

Planting strawberry seeds

Long way to get seedlings. This method will allow you to preserve the main characteristics of the variety, as well as grow new varieties of strawberries, seedlings of which are not available in your area. Pour the seeds on well-moistened soil and cover with glass or plastic wrap.

Mustache rooting

During the growth of the uterine bush, mustaches grow from it with rosettes of new plants with their own root system. Rooted in the ground young plant, starts own life and can be used for seedlings. We choose the most productive bush. We remove all flower stalks so that the bush does not bear fruit and does not waste energy on the harvest. The following year, a mustache is taken from this bush for breeding. We take the first 3-5 rosettes from the strawberry tendrils and root them. It is good to do this immediately in a pot, and when the bush gives its roots and takes root, it is cut off from the mother bush.

Those bushes that do not give a mustache for reproduction are propagated by dividing the bush itself.

Some summer residents cut off all the foliage of strawberries in the fall. They take a scythe, whack-whack, and the beds are completely cleaned, not a single leaf. Under no circumstances should this be done. By doing this, you stimulate the growth of young leaves, instead of the plant laying buds for the next year. So the question is, why do you need young strawberry leaves?

Full pruning of the bushes is done only in extreme cases, if the strawberry plantation is sick, but this should be done immediately after harvesting, and not wait for autumn.

Another important rule when growing and caring for strawberries. If you grow strawberries of varieties such as "Gigantella", then plant no more than 4 plants per square meter, since at the age of 2 - 3 years the height of the bushes reaches 60 cm, the plants need a sufficient amount of light, with a more dense planting, the plants will not have enough light .

After harvesting, leaf growth continues until mid-October, the plant forms new roots, stems, flower buds. At this time, strawberry beds need good care, including removing yellowed leaves and watering.

Using the tips for growing and caring for strawberries, you can get an excellent harvest!

Processing strawberries in spring

HOW TO PLANT A STRAWBERRY CORRECTLY - 4 WAYS OF LANDING

How to plant strawberries in order to get a good harvest? I offer you four effective ways planting strawberries, which have long established themselves among gardeners.

Planting strawberries in free-standing bushes Strawberry rosettes are planted one at a time at a distance of 45-60 cm. To prevent the plants from intertwining, the whiskers are regularly removed, thereby allowing the bushes to develop intensively and bear fruit abundantly.
Disadvantages of the method: labor-intensive, frequent loosening of the soil, weed control, mulching and mustache trimming are necessary.
Advantages of the method: the berries are large due to a small number of bushes, each plant is ventilated, which reduces the likelihood of putrefactive diseases, planting material is saved.

Planting strawberries in rows In this case, the bushes are planted at a distance of 15-20 cm in one row, and a strip of 40 cm wide is left between the rows so that you can freely approach the plantings. As with growing strawberries in separate bushes, it is necessary to loosen the soil, remove mustaches and weeds.
Disadvantages of the method: the same as the first.
Advantages of the method: strawberries planted in rows grow well and bear fruit for 5-6 years in one place.

Planting strawberries in nests With this planting method, one plant is planted in the center of the future nest and six more around it. The result is a hexagon with a distance between plants in the nest of 5-8 cm. The distance between nests in one row should be 25-30 cm, and between rows 35-40 cm.
Disadvantages of the method: it takes a lot planting material. Advantages of the method: landed at five more plants than at traditional ways planting, which ensures a large harvest.

Carpet Planting Strawberries This is the easiest and most cheap way landing. Its essence is that the whiskers of the strawberry bushes do not break off, thereby allowing the berry to grow independently over the entire allotted area. With such a compacted way of placing bushes, a special microclimate arises in the surface layer, and a layer of vegetable mulch is also formed by itself. This inhibits weed growth and keeps the soil moist.
Advantages of the method: it is convenient for those who do not often go to the country, the berries rarely need watering, loosening and fertilizing due to natural mulching.
Disadvantages of the method: over time, the berries can shrink.

How to propagate strawberries with a mustache

How did our grandmothers propagate strawberries? After the strawberry bushes bore fruit, they “launched” the garden bed, that is, they did not cut off the mustache. And at the end of August, the strongest rooted rosettes were selected and transferred to a new place. Raise your hand, those who blindly follow the grandmother's method. Forest of hands!

But if you want to get high-quality seedlings, if you want to keep all the varietal qualities of strawberries, if you need an excellent harvest from year to year, you need to act a little differently. How to properly propagate strawberries with a mustache, we will tell today on the electronic pages of "Country Councils".

Why is it impossible to take mustaches from fruit-bearing bushes?

The correct approach to propagating strawberries is as follows: the bush should produce either berries or a mustache. One out of two. If a gardener takes mustaches from freshly hatched strawberry bushes, he gets defective seedlings. main part nutrients the plant has already spent on the ripening of berries, which means that its mustache will be much weaker than we would like.

In addition, forcing the bushes to "work on two fronts", the summer resident risks losing them ahead of time. Strawberries are depleted faster, the berries become smaller, the bushes are more likely to be exposed to diseases, the yield of the beds is reduced by 20-30%.

Reproduction of strawberries using mother bushes

Proper propagation of strawberries begins with the selection of the so-called mother bushes. To do this, in the first year after planting, absolutely all mustaches are removed from absolutely all strawberry bushes and fruiting is expected. The bushes that survived the vagaries of the weather best of all, did not get sick and gave the largest berries, are marked with a sticker, a stick, a knitting - whatever, as long as it is noticeable. These are your future mother bushes. For convenience, you can even transplant them to a separate bed according to the pattern of 40 centimeters between bushes, 80 centimeters between rows.

Proper propagation of strawberries The following year, all buds are removed on selected mother bushes, preventing flowering and, accordingly, setting berries.

Thus, without being able to produce seeds, plants will put all their strength into vegetative propagation, that is, into mustaches. Already in the first month of summer, the mother bushes will begin to give a mustache, on which rosettes will subsequently be tied. You need to leave only the largest, most powerful mustache, and ruthlessly cut off all the little things. The best option- shorten the mustache of strawberries, leaving only one outlet on each, closest to the mother bush. But if you need a lot of seedlings, then you can use the second sockets.

When the first roots appear on the outlets, two options for further action are possible:

Propagation of strawberries with a mustache Pin sockets to the ground, bury them a little in loose soil, and then water and care for them, like any other seedlings.
Reproduction of strawberries with a mustache Without separating the outlet from the mother bush, plant each in a separate pot, where it will develop its own root system.
Strawberry seedlings are planted in a new place in late July - early August, so that before the onset of the first frost, the plants have time to take root and grow stronger. Therefore, two weeks before planting, the mustache connecting the sockets to the mother bush is cut, giving the young plants time to get used to eating from their own roots.

Propagation of strawberries with mustaches Uterine bushes can serve as a source of high-quality seedling material for two to three years. Moreover, two- or three-year-old strawberries produce much more whiskers than first-year ones. Well, after three years, it is recommended to replace the uterine bushes with young ones, having carried out the entire selection procedure again.

Planting strawberries (strawberries): timing and technology

In previous articles of "Country Councils" we dealt with the features of the propagation of strawberries (strawberries) and how to plant them.

It's time to get up close and personal with the technology. When should strawberries be planted? How to plant it correctly so that each bush takes root and overwinter? How to water and feed newly planted seedlings? Is it necessary to mulch young plantings? Today our goal is to find answers to these and some other questions.

Planting dates for strawberries

Landing dates

For the future excellent harvest berries, first of all, high-quality seedlings are needed, and the best mustaches and rosettes appear in early spring or late summer, when temperatures are low and there is plenty of moisture.

Therefore, the optimal time for planting strawberries in middle lane the periods from April 15 to May 5 and from July 25 to September 5 are considered. In the southern regions spring planting they start already in the first days of March, and the autumn one ends at the end of October.

When is it better to plant strawberries: in spring or autumn? In most areas and in most cases, the August planting of young strawberries is considered the most successful option. During this period, the gardener has more time, and a lot of planting material, and the weather, as a rule, is favorable for young bushes to take root, take root in a new place and safely endure the winter. But in open areas blown by all winds in areas with severe, little snowy winters, it is better to be careful and postpone planting to spring. Then the young bushes will have a whole summer to get stronger.

Preparing a bed for strawberries (strawberries)

Garden preparation
Strawberries are recommended to be planted in well-lit areas where garlic, onions, root vegetables or legumes used to grow. It is very good if the bed for strawberries was chosen in advance and sown with green manure in the spring, which had already been mowed by August, and the bed was shed with a solution of EM preparations. Most the best siderat for strawberries, it's lupins.

In any case, before planting seedlings, the site must be cleared of weeds and the soil mixed. Strawberries are a rather “gluttonous” berry, so in addition to the earth, compost, rotted manure or biohumus, and ash will be required to prepare the soil.

Holes for strawberry seedlings are made deep and wide. The distance between the holes is 30-50 cm. The distance between the rows is 40 cm. The earth taken out of the holes is mixed with the rest of the soil components in the following proportions: 1 bucket of earth, 1 bucket of manure, 1 bucket of compost, 2 cups of ash. From the soil prepared in this way, a small mound is made in the center of each hole.

Strawberry (strawberry) planting technology

Like any other crop, it is preferable to plant strawberries on a cloudy day or in the evening.

An hour before planting, the seedlings need to be watered, it would be even better to soak the seedlings in water or a growth biostimulator for a couple of hours. Some gardeners keep bushes in garlic infusion before planting (150 ml of garlic infusion per 10 liters of water) to prevent pest attacks.
strawberry seedling roots
A good strawberry seedling should have 3-4 healthy leaves (the rest should be removed) and well-spread roots 10 centimeters long (extra centimeters should be cut off).

So, we have prepared young bushes, holes with "mounds" and the remains of the soil mixture. It remains only to install each bush on a mound so that the growth point (the so-called "heart") is on the same level with the surface of the bed, and the roots are straightened along the slopes of the mound.
Hill landing
Then, holding the bush, it is necessary to fill it with soil prepared in advance and at the same time spill it with water. This is done so that the contact of the roots and the earth is closer.
Newly planted strawberry bush
Be sure to ensure that the growing point is not too deep or too elevated above the soil.
Landing dates

Care for a young bed of strawberries (strawberries)

If you planted strawberries in the spring, flower stalks and mustaches may appear on the young bed. Cut them off without pity! Now the main task of seedlings is rooting in a new place, and fruiting and reproduction can and should be postponed until the next season.
Removing colors
Be sure to mulch freshly planted strawberries. The best mulching material for this berry is needles - it prevents diseases from developing and repels pests. But straw, and dried grass, and foliage, and rotted sawdust, etc. are also suitable.

Two weeks after planting, the young berry is fed. As a top dressing, you can use biohumus infusion (sold in stores), infusion bird droppings or herbal infusion. All these fertilizers are organic, contain a large amount of easily digestible nitrogen, which contributes to the rapid growth of young strawberries.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Processing strawberries in spring

Spring processing of strawberries is one of the first things a summer resident does when he returns to his favorite site after a long winter. However, not everyone knows how to properly process strawberries in the spring in order to own forces save money and increase the future harvest.

Do I need to remove old dried leaves? Should I remove the top layer of soil? How to treat strawberries from pests and diseases? What should be the first spring dressing of strawberries? Questions have been asked, so we will answer ...

Processing strawberries in spring

After the snow melts and the first warm days come, the gardeners of the old school, armed with a flat cutter, a chopper and a shovel, proceed to the standard processing of strawberries “according to the textbook”: they remove the top layer of soil (formidable pests live there), cut off the dried leaves (because the bushes should look beautiful), feed, loosen and sprinkle the soil, spray the bushes from pests. Processing strawberries in the spring As a result, bare beds are obtained, which, after the very first hot sunny day, are covered with a crust. And the crust again needs to be loosened, etc. etc.
So it can't be done? Why is it possible. But such processing takes a lot of time and effort.

For those who feel sorry for the effort spent in vain, we offer a slightly different way of processing strawberry bushes.

So, here is a list of the main activities that need to be done in the spring in the strawberry garden:

1. Raking mulch that has not rotted over the winter;

2. Mandrel of the sides of the beds;

3. Top dressing with mineral or organic fertilizers;

4. Initial treatment of strawberry bushes for diseases with chemicals or biological products;

5. Mulching.

Cleaning and guidance "marafet"

We are sure that you are mulching your strawberries with one of the suitable organic mulching materials, which means that plant residues that have not had time to rot remain on the beds after the winter. They should be put in the compost heap. The meaning of this procedure is that the soil covered with mulch warms up more slowly, and in order for the strawberry bushes to start growing faster, the earth must be warm. After getting rid of last year's mulch, you need to straighten the sides of the beds so that they look neat and the neighbor does not look at you like you are lazy.

Spring dressing of strawberries

Fertilizing Strawberries in the Spring To encourage the appearance of fresh green leaves, strawberry bushes can be fertilized. If you are not against the use of mineral fertilizers in the garden, then choose one of the options for complex feeding:

1 tbsp nitroammophoski for 10 liters of water.
Proponents of organic farming feed strawberry beds with mullein infusion (1 part manure to 10 parts water) or chicken manure (1 part manure to 12 parts water) or nettle infusion (a bucket of young nettle is poured warm water and kept for 3-4 days).

Top dressing of strawberries is applied directly under the bush, avoiding the solution on the leaves.

Processing strawberries from pests and mulching

In early spring, before strawberries bloom, it is recommended to carry out the treatment of bushes against pests. Those who are not afraid of chemicals spray the plants with Taurus or Caesar. For adherents of biological products, there are "Fitoverm" and "Acrofit". Just do not forget that drugs of biological origin are effective at temperatures above + 18 ° C.

Some gardeners prefer to control pests with plain water. Water must be heated to a temperature of 60-65 ° C and pour strawberries on top of it with a watering can with a fine strainer. The main thing is that the water does not have time to cool down ahead of time and that it falls on the leaves more or less evenly. "Water procedures" not only help to get rid of pests, they also stimulate growth and contribute to the enlargement of berries.

Mulching strawberries in the spring When the soil is well warmed up and the threat return frosts stopped hanging like a sword of Damocles over summer cottage, strawberry ridges must be mulched again. Spruce and pine needles are best suited for this purpose. The fact is that such a mulch plays the role of a kind of antiseptic - with it, strawberries are not afraid of any diseases. Straw mulch is also good, which allows moisture to pass through well and does not allow the berries to rot. True, slugs and other “gluttonous bellies” can take root in the straw, so coniferous mulch is considered number one for strawberries.

But what about old leaves? Old dried leaves will eventually disappear on their own, without our help, and at the same time, it is they who at first will “work instead of mulch”, protecting the soil from drying out and creating an optimal microclimate in the garden with strawberries.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Top dressing strawberries in spring, summer, autumn

Not every gardener can boast of rich black earth soil in his area. Again, not every gardener, even if he decides to practice natural farming, is able to replace all his traditional beds with more fertile organic ones in one sitting. Especially when it comes to strawberries, which have been growing in one place for several years.

In order not to be left without real fragrant and sweet strawberries in the season, many summer residents have to rely on top dressing. Today we will talk about when and how to feed strawberries for optimal growth, lush flowering and appropriate fruiting.

During the summer season, strawberries are usually fed three times: in spring, in summer after the main harvest, and in late summer or autumn before preparing for winter. Remontant strawberries are especially responsive to feeding; they must be fed at weekly intervals.

First dressing of strawberries in spring

Fertilizers for strawberries

For the first time, strawberry bushes are fed in the spring, at the very beginning of the summer season, as soon as the snow melts and more or less warm weather sets in. The first top dressing is aimed at stimulating the growth of fresh shoots and leaves, therefore it must contain nitrogen.

Recipes spring feeding strawberries

1 tbsp ammonium sulfate and 2 cups of mullein per 10 liters of water;
1 tbsp nitroammofoski per 10 liters of water;
1 part mullein to 10 parts water;
1 part chicken manure to 12 parts water
Pour 1 bucket of nettle with warm water and soak for 3-4 days;
30 drops of iodine, 1 teaspoon boric acid, 1 cup of ash per 10 liters of water;
3 grams of potassium permanganate, 0.5 tsp boric acid, 1 tbsp. urea and 0.5 cups of ash per 10 liters of water;
Pour 2/3 buckets of dried crusts, pieces, any remnants of rye bread with water and keep warm for 6-10 days. Then dilute with water three times;
1 part whey (or any other fermented milk product) to 3 parts water.
Under each strawberry bush, it is necessary to pour 0.5-1 liter of liquid top dressing, depending on the size of the bush.

Second dressing of strawberries

How to feed strawberries

The second feeding of strawberries is carried out in the summer, towards the end of July, after the main harvest of berries. It would seem why? The fact is that at this time the formation of new roots begins and flower buds are laid for the next season, so additional potassium and trace elements will not interfere with plants.

Recipes for the second feeding of strawberries

2 tbsp nitrophoska and 1 tsp. potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water;
2 tbsp potassium nitrate per 10 liters of water;
1 glass of biohumus per 10 liters of water is infused for a day, then diluted in half with water;
100 grams of ash per 10 liters of water.
Under each bush you need to pour about 0.5 liters of any of the above fertilizers. Alternatively, the ash can not be dissolved in water, but scattered directly under the bushes. After two weeks, it would be good to repeat the top dressing: after all, at this time the plants need food most of all.

The third dressing of strawberries in the fall

Top dressing for garden strawberries

The last third dressing of strawberries is recommended to be carried out in mid-September in dry weather, when the harvest has long been harvested, and the bushes begin to prepare for the coming winter. As a rule, young (one-year-old) plants especially need a third top dressing in order to successfully overwinter.

Recipes autumn feeding strawberries

1 part mullein to 10 parts water + 0.5 cup ash;
1 part mullein to 10 parts water + 2 tbsp. superphosphate + 1 glass of ash;
2 tbsp nitroammofoski, 30 grams of potassium sulfate and 1 cup of ash per 10 liters of water.
Each bush will be enough from 250 to 500 ml. such a feed.

For those who do not like mineral fertilizers at all and grow strawberries according to the rules of organic farming with mandatory mulching, we recommend feeding strawberries with biohumus infusion four times per season. The first time in early spring, then before flowering, the third time during the berry set and the last time after fruiting.

We wish you success and great harvests!

How to grow seedlings of strawberries from seeds

Not all summer residents decide to propagate strawberries with seeds. And this is understandable. Whatever manufacturers of planting material write on bright packaging, growing strawberries from seeds is a troublesome business. Seeds sprout for a long time, and often disappear altogether; seedlings look fragile and small, you have to dive with tweezers; it is unacceptable to overmoisten the seedling soil, and even more so it is impossible to overdry ... So many worries!

Nevertheless, growing strawberries or strawberries from seeds has its advantages. If you want to improve your berry health, try new interesting varieties and do not be afraid of any difficulties, go for it! And we will help you with useful advice ...

First of all, we advise you to pay attention to small-fruited varieties. remontant strawberries. It is less capricious than strawberries, it costs less, and the chances of getting good seedlings a lot more. In the future, having gained experience, you will move on to growing large-fruited varieties.

Sowing seeds of strawberries for seedlings

Growing strawberries from seeds
You can plant strawberries for seedlings both in February and in April. Everything will depend on your conditions.

Whoever is ready to provide the strawberries with the lightest window sill or illuminate the seedlings for 12-14 hours a day can safely sow seeds in early February and have the right to expect the first harvest of berries this season.

Well, for those who have all the window sills already occupied by tomatoes and peppers, it is not forbidden to plant strawberries in March or at the very beginning of April. Perhaps this season, such bushes will not be able to bear fruit, but next year they will show themselves in all their glory.

Soil preparation for strawberry seedlings

Growing strawberry seedlings: sowing seeds
The main properties necessary for the soil for seedlings of strawberries are lightness and water permeability. To achieve the desired quality, some gardeners advise sifting the soil mixture through a sieve. The following mixtures are best suited for strawberry seedlings:

Option 1: 3 parts garden soil, 3 parts humus or compost, 1/2 part wood ash.
Option 2: 4 parts vermiculite, 3 parts peat, 3 parts sand.
Option 3: 1 part coconut fiber, 1 part humus or biohumus.
Option 4: 3 parts sand, 5 parts humus.
Option 5: 2 parts of sod land, 1 part of sand, 1 part of peat.
Option 6: 3 parts of sand, 1 part of garden soil, 1 part of humus.
In order to disinfect the soil as much as possible, it is either calcined, or frozen, or shed in advance with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Stratification of seeds and sowing for seedlings

How to grow seedlings of strawberries from seeds
That's why summer residents don't like to mess with strawberry seedlings so much! Because of the notorious stratification, which in this case cannot be bypassed.

Stratification is the creation of seeds for germination conditions close to natural. The strawberry seeds that we have on hand, roughly speaking, are sleeping. Growth blockers work to the fullest - special substances that prevent the germination of seeds before the onset of a favorable period. The task of the gardener is to artificially create all the conditions for the seeds so that they “come out of hibernation” faster and start growing.

How to stratify strawberry seeds? You can go the traditional way and keep the seeds on a damp cloth in the refrigerator for a week, and then carefully sow in the ground. And you can "kill two birds with one stone" by combining stratification with sowing.

It is most convenient to sow strawberry seeds in plastic containers with a lid, after making several seeds in their bottom. drainage holes. Such a container is filled with soil mixture, not reaching the edge by a couple of centimeters. Slightly moisten the soil so that small seeds do not fall too deep, and then evenly distribute the seeds over the surface. They are not covered with earth, and the two or two and a half centimeters remaining to the top of the container are filled with snow. Close the lid of the container and send it to the refrigerator for two weeks.

In the refrigerator, the snow will gradually melt and go into the soil, dragging the seeds with it. This is exactly what happens in natural conditions spring. This is exactly what we were aiming for!

After the expiration of the stratification period, the container with the planted seeds is put on the windowsill. You don’t need to open the lid yet, and watering is usually not required either (there is usually enough moisture from melted snow). But to arrange additional lighting not allowed.

After 10-15 days (in some varieties after a month), the first shoots appear.

Caring for seedlings of strawberries before planting in the ground

Growing strawberry seedlings: first shoots
With the advent of seedlings, the lid of the box must be periodically opened (or holes made in it). Young seedlings are not recommended to be opened immediately and permanently in order to avoid rapid evaporation of moisture. Constant moisture (but not waterlogging) of the soil is one of the key points in growing strawberry seedlings.

When sowing seeds in a plastic transparent container with a lid, it is very convenient to monitor the level of humidity. If the lid of the container looks a little foggy, everything is fine; if there is so much condensate that it collects in drops on the lid, then there is excess moisture in the soil, and it is necessary to ventilate the seedlings; If the lid is dry, then it's time to water.

Strawberries are watered very carefully: either with drops along the walls of the container, or from a fine sprayer, or with a medical syringe. The most best water for watering - thawed. If there are concerns about fungal infections that may be dormant in the soil, you can add to irrigation water"Fitosporin", diluted according to the instructions.

Approximately 3-4 days after germination, the lid can be opened permanently.

With the advent of 2-3 real leaves, seedlings of strawberries dive into individual cups. The procedure is not the easiest, because the plants are still tiny, fragile, with an elongated stem. Many people use tweezers to carefully hold each blade of grass. When picking, it is necessary to ensure that the root does not bend up. First, the seedling is sprinkled with earth to the same depth, later, when the seedlings take root in a new place, earth is added to the cotyledon leaves, without falling asleep the growth point. The entire long stem of strawberry seedlings will be underground and will give additional roots.
Growing strawberry seedlings at home
Some gardeners simply "spud" the sprouts, raking the soil so as to fill up a long stem, leaving a growth point and leaves above the ground, and picking is done later, with the appearance of 3-4 pairs of true leaves. In this case, the seedlings will be much stronger, but there may be a problem with the interlacing of the roots. The roots of seedlings can become so intertwined with each other that you have to rinse them with water and gently (with a fork) unravel.

After picking, caring for strawberry seedlings comes down to constantly monitoring the level of humidity. In addition, you can harden seedlings by taking them out to the balcony at stable positive temperatures. It is not necessary to feed strawberry seedlings until the very landing in the ground.

We wish you success and great harvests!