Ruddy beauty from the garden - strawberries. How and when to plant a berry? When is the best time to transplant strawberries in spring or autumn, and when is it best to plant When is it best to plant strawberries

Strawberries rightfully won the title of "Queen of Berries". She, so juicy and bright, is waiting for everyone - from young to old. Moreover, this berry is one of the first to ripen, and along with the pleasure of taste, a person receives a lot of vitamins. But the bushes are very vulnerable, they require special care. And beginners in gardening, before breeding, should find out the intricacies of planting this crop in autumn and spring, what temperatures the culture can be afraid of and how to cover and protect from dangerous frost.

Disputes between gardeners about planting strawberries have been going on for quite some time. Some argue that the plant will take root better when spring planting, others tend to grow strawberries at the end of the gardening season.

The main argument of the second is a plant planted in spring will not yield. And this is true, besides, if a hot summer comes, then young bushes may dry up.

Autumn has a number of advantages:

a large number of planting material;
moderate heat will allow the bushes to take root perfectly;
in the spring, time is freed up for planting other crops;
early next summer you can harvest a lot.

In the autumn months, gardeners have enough time to calmly prepare the site and plant the desired variety.

Planting dates for strawberries in the fall

Gardeners can independently determine the time for planting berry bushes, based on the climatic features of their region:

Early deadline - from August 15 to September 15.
The average term is from September 15 to October 15.

Plant later Not recommended in any region of residence, because frosts can destroy young fragile bushes. The best solution would be to land per month until the expected temperature drops to 0 degrees and below. You can use hint Lunar calendar and define the perfect day.

When landing, pay attention to weather conditions. It is better to plant in warm weather, after rain.

Preparing berries for planting

The next step after determining the landing time is plant and soil preparation. A large harvest of strawberries can be obtained if you grow berries on sandy and loamy soil, chernozem. Clay soil should be enriched with the substances necessary for plant growth contained in peat, manure and humus.

To saturate the soil with oxygen, plant green manure (lupine, mustard) on the site. At the end of spring, mow them down and mix them with the ground when digging the site. You should not plant strawberry bushes if tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, Asteraceae and ranunculus flowers previously grew on this site.

It is best to buy seedlings in a specialized nursery. They must meet the following requirements:

root length - 10 cm;
the number of formed leaves - 3-4 pcs.;
root collar diameter over 6 mm;

You can, of course, try to grow strawberries from seeds. And already these plants are planted in open ground. But not all gardeners can devote enough time to caring for seedlings.

In any case, the seedlings should be placed in a cool place for several days, and immediately before planting, dip their roots in a "talker" - a mixture of water, humus, soil and any growth regulator. If strawberry bushes are taken from their own beds, then they should be planted immediately in a new place.

Rules for planting seedlings

The growing point of strawberries should be at ground level. Therefore, it is best to plant seedlings on low earthen ridges, spread the roots along their slopes. After carefully cover with earth and shed well warm water.

There are also several rules that guarantee excellent survival of young plants:

Planting strawberries on cloudy days or in the evening.
Before planting a seedling, it is necessary to moisten the soil well, especially if there has not been rain for a long time.
Bushes waiting for their turn to plant keep in a dark place.
If the length of the root system exceeds 10 cm, then it can be shortened without fear.

Often used to repel pests garlic infusion- 5-6 heads of garlic are placed in a 5-liter jar of water. Insist folk remedy follows 6-7 days. This liquid contains strawberry seedlings before planting.

How to shelter and protect after planting

The roots of adult plants can withstand soil temperatures down to -7 degrees, it is natural that young bushes are deprived of such frost resistance. Therefore, immediately after planting strawberries needs to be mulched.

Any natural material is suitable for this procedure - fallen needles and leaves, sawdust, spruce branches and others. Straw can also be used to cover the berries for the winter. These materials will become the first layer of cover, allowing air to circulate among the plants.

The next layer is snow. This atmospheric phenomenon will not allow the soil to freeze and will keep young plants until spring. In regions with little snow, it is better to play it safe and cover the beds with agrofibre, which makes it possible to protect strawberries from severe frosts with 100% probability.

To collect excellent harvest protect plants from frost.

What spring frosts can withstand

A cold spring is unlikely to harm young strawberries. If only severe frosts will not sink to the ground in mid-May, when the plants are ready for flowering and berry growth.

At 1 degree below zero, each bush loses up to 8% of flowers, and a temperature of -3 degrees will destroy whole 25% .

After frosts, the gardener should take a closer look at the plants - blackened pistils indicate that there will be no harvest. It happens that the flowers persist and even bloom. But, most likely, the fruits will be deformed and underdeveloped and cannot be saved.

How to protect yourself from frost in spring

In the spring months, the protection of strawberries from frost becomes urgent. Gardeners need to act quickly and decisively.

The main thing is to raise the temperature in the soil by 1-2 degrees.

This can be done with the help of sprinkling - irrigate garden beds with warm water as many days as the frost lasts. Also effective smoke landings when bonfires are made from brushwood and well-burning garbage near the strawberry plot. This protection method provides additional warmth to young bushes, but requires safety precautions.

In order to enjoy delicious berries from your garden in the first days of summer, you need to properly plant and care for the plants. And if you also allocate more space for this culture on suburban area, then you can provide the whole family with delicious and healthy strawberry jam.

There are many ways to plant strawberries, and each of them deserves special attention. Before choosing the most suitable option, you should find out when and how strawberries can be planted so that they give a rich harvest in late spring or early summer.

What determines the timing?

Planting strawberries can be done in spring, summer or autumn. Time is chosen according to climatic conditions terrain, weather and other factors. Most often it is May, mid-July or the end of August. During these periods, as a rule, there is no intense heat, due to which the plant takes root perfectly and gives next year good harvest.

The time is also chosen depending on the type of plant root system. Bare-rooted seedlings should be used in spring, mid-summer at the latest. seedlings with closed system- during the whole year.

In the next few weeks after planting, it is necessary to regularly water the strawberries, as well as feed them with organic or mineral fertilizers. Most often, humus, manure, potassium and nitrogen fertilizers are used for this purpose.

Spring period

Planting strawberries in the spring - at its very beginning - allows the bushes to develop much better and faster than if it were carried out at a later period. This activity can be started as soon as warm sunny weather sets in and it becomes possible to carry out field work.

When planting seedlings in the spring, it is necessary to correctly calculate the period of its implementation. If this process is delayed, the seedlings may die.

Planting should be done before the onset of heat. Usually, best period occurs at the end of April and beginning of May.

autumn period

Some experienced gardeners prefer to work with strawberries in autumn or late summer. best time landing is considered the period from August 15 to September 20. In the time remaining before the onset of frost, the plants will have time to take root and get stronger enough to give a good harvest the next year.

Before work, it is necessary to moisten the soil well, filling it with plenty of clean and warm water. For this purpose, you can use the usual garden watering can or hose.

Autumn planting strawberries - video

A few important rules

Before planting strawberries in spring or autumn, you should follow these steps:

About a month before the start of field work, the land must be disinfected. For this purpose, special chemicals to prevent the development of strawberry diseases such as gray rot, powdery mildew etc.
Seedlings should be stored in plastic bag or in a container filled with a small amount clean water(about 100 ml).

The land plot is thoroughly cleaned of plant roots, weeds, since during fruiting they can cause considerable harm to strawberries. It is desirable that nightshade crops do not grow on the ground before. In no case should you use those plots of land where potatoes were previously grown.

Many are interested in where to plant strawberries. For this purpose, the place where onions, garlic, marigolds, petunias, dill, legumes or grains previously grew is suitable. In this case, the seedlings will be provided with the microelements necessary for nutrition. As a result, the harvest will be large and plentiful.

Where else can you plant strawberries? To get a good harvest, experienced gardeners recommend giving preference to shaded and well-ventilated places. For example, ideal option will be a plot near the garden.

Strawberry selection

Get quality material for landing, you can use the following methods:

Preparatory work

Before you start planting strawberries in spring or autumn, carry out the following set of activities:

Only after completing all the above steps, you can proceed to planting strawberry bushes. When planning this event in the spring, advance preparation land plot it is recommended to produce at the end of summer. Accordingly, if work is planned for the fall, the site is prepared in the spring.

Types of planting strawberries

There are 2 main varieties:

Traditional.
This option contributes to the harvest over the next 3-4 years.
After the specified period, strawberries completely “degenerate” and cease to produce a crop. Therefore, the berries are transplanted to another place. Please note that the most suitable time for planting strawberries using this method is spring.

Natural agrotechnical. It includes special care for strawberries and constant top dressing of the soil. As a result, a good harvest can be obtained on the same site for 7-8 years.

Traditionally, planting strawberries in the ground is carried out with ribbons consisting of two rows. In addition, it can be produced in wide beds, on which strawberry bushes are placed in a checkerboard pattern.

With the agrotechnical method, beds are made, which should be placed from north to south. An indent is left between the seedlings, which at first glance may seem too wide. However, it should be remembered that the bushes will grow in the next 5-8 years and eventually occupy all the free space.

Bed options

Let's take a closer look at how far to plant strawberries. This moment is quite important, because if you leave too little space between the seedlings, they will have nowhere to grow. On the other hand, if there is too much space for them, much of the land will be wasted.

When planting strawberries in rows, gaps of 15–25 cm are made between seedlings. A distance of 40–60 cm is left between rows.

If beds 1 m wide are used, strawberries are planted in a checkerboard pattern so that 50 cm remains between the bushes. 50 cm wide indents are made between the beds themselves.

With the agrotechnical method, rows are made, the width of which is 50 cm. There must be a distance of at least 50 cm between them. Plant bushes are planted in a row, leaving an indent of 50 cm between them.

To get a good harvest of berries, proper planting of strawberries is necessary. Before the procedure itself, seedlings are prepared:

If the strawberries are in plastic pot or a cup, it should be watered an hour before work.
If you plan to use plants with an open root system, they must be immersed for 10 hours in a solution of HB-101 (3 drops of the drug are taken per 1 liter of water).

If the seedling is in peat pots, it should be immersed in water for 30 seconds.

Now consider how to properly plant strawberries:

After preparing the seedlings, it is necessary to cut the roots so that their length does not exceed 10 cm. This is required so that the root system does not wrap.
Before starting work, you need to dig holes up to a depth of 25 cm. A small and neat mound is formed at the bottom, on which the seedling is placed, while making sure that the root system does not bend. It should smoothly descend the slopes of the mound.
After planting the plant, the soil should be well moistened with water, pouring 0.5 liters of HB-101 solution under each bush (1-2 drops of the drug are taken for each liter of clean water).
After the implementation of all actions, the soil surface is mulched with a thin layer of compost. Then the plants are covered from above with a thin covering material for 14 days. This is necessary in order to create a greenhouse effect and prevent the seedlings from drying out.

Features of the correct planting of strawberries - video tutorial

Strawberries are a favorite berry of adults and children, and in order for it to please with its taste and aroma for as long as possible, you should know how to plant strawberries in the spring, which place to choose for it, what to fertilize and how much to water.

Choosing a site and soil for growing strawberries

For abundant growth and fruiting, strawberries are best planted in chernozem places, on dark gray forest soil, on sandy and loamy soil, on small slopes on the southwestern side. A slower growth of strawberries and lower yields are observed when planting berries on soddy-podzolic soil, on clay and light gray soils in the lowlands. The acidity of the land suitable for planting should be at the level of 5-6.5 pH, the level ground water should be at least 60 cm, and the soil temperature at a depth of 15-20 cm in winter time should not fall below -8°C.

How to plant strawberries in the spring and what predecessors create the most favorable conditions in the soil for its growth? It’s great if cereals grew on the plot before strawberries, the predecessors of the nightshade family are less preferred. You should also know that strawberry bushes cannot be planted in the same place where it grew before. You can plant strawberries in the same place only after 2-3 years, so the soil will have time to enrich useful elements necessary for full growth, flowering and ripening of berries.

How to plant strawberries in spring and autumn

Seedling strawberry bushes are preferably planted in early spring or early autumn. Autumn planting is carried out between August 10 and September 25. Before planting, be sure to properly moisten the ground. Protracted and more late boarding plants will lead to a significant decrease in the yield of berry bushes. There is an opinion that strawberries can be planted in the summer, from July to August, using the two-line planting method. However, this is more an exception than a rule, because in the southern part of Russia and Ukraine during the summer-autumn period there is a small amount of precipitation, and the temperature of the soil and air rises so much that no measures of moisturizing and shading will give the proper result. In this case, there is a high risk of wilting and death of plants.

Necessary measures before planting strawberries

A few days before it must be placed in a cool place. To prevent drying out and ensure easier survival of the plant, immediately before planting, its roots are dipped in a clay mash. It is necessary to plant seedlings in moist soil, it is important to protect the container with young seedlings from direct sun rays. The root system of the planted bush should be 7-10 cm long, if it is larger, then it can be cut to the required size. If after planting there is a possibility of cold weather, then the seedlings should be covered with a film.

How to plant strawberries in spring? You need to observe some features:

Strawberries need to be weeded carefully enough, as various weeds can interfere with its growth and flowering.
Before planting, it is advisable to disinfect the soil with appropriate compounds.
The beds on which plants of the nightshade family were previously grown are not suitable for the growth of strawberries.
Strawberry whiskers should be planted in moist soil, having previously kept them in a container of water.
On peat and sandy soil, plant rosettes take root best of all.
When planning to plant strawberries in early spring, prepare the soil at the end of summer.

The rules of how to plant strawberries, the photos below show clearly.

Soil care after planting

To prevent rapid dehydration of the soil and the formation of a crust at the place of watering the plants, earth or humus should be poured. If the soil after planting seems compacted, it needs to be loosened, this is done so that the roots and the plants themselves receive enough moisture, nutrients and oxygen. In prolonged dry weather, plants should be watered quite often, up to several times a day.

Choosing seedlings

The root neck of good seedlings should be no more than 6 mm in diameter, and the processes of the roots should be no more than 7 mm. Seedling bushes should have 3-5 leaves, juicy and elastic roots white color. The selected seedlings should be placed in the soil as soon as possible, but if this is not possible, then it should be dug up with moist and loose soil and placed in a dark place, a cool cellar or basement. In this form, strawberry bushes can be stored for several days.

Soil preparation for planting

Strawberry bushes and berries are excellent treats for strawberry nematodes, wireworms, Colorado potato beetles and many other pests, so it is best to check the soil for their presence before planting. If a large number of larvae are found, then alkaloid lupine should be planted on the site, and for the purpose of cleaning and prevention, the earth can be treated with ammonia water.

We water correctly

The quantity and quality of strawberries largely depend on the amount of incoming moisture. So, in hot weather and a long dry period, the plant should be watered 1-2 times a day. Watering should be carried out in moderation, in small doses, otherwise a large amount of water will lead to rotting of the berries, the appearance of diseases and pests.

Before flowering, seedlings must be moistened with sprinkling.
During the flowering period, the plant is watered under the root, and if possible, moisture should be excluded from the leaves, flowers and berries.
The optimum water temperature for irrigation is +16 ° C.
In the rainy season, the beds should be covered with plastic wrap.

Film facilities for growing strawberries

With an early spring planting of a plant, the question is very relevant: how to plant strawberries under a film? Such shelter provides plants with easier development and earlier maturation. This method is very effective in growing early. Film tunnels are the most easily constructed shelters. To do this, you need to install wire arcs at a distance of 1 m from each other. The structure should be about half a meter high. Fix the film over the arcs so that it does not sag, apply. For the convenience of carrying out earthworks in the film tunnel, one side of it must be well fixed, and on the other side, attach the rail. Gather the film on the end of the greenhouse and tie it into a knot, attach it to the pegs, which then dig into the ground.

Caring for strawberries in a film shelter

To control the temperature, a thermometer should be placed inside. If the indicators rise above +25 ° C, then the greenhouse must be immediately opened and ventilated. In good sunny weather, during the flowering of the bushes, the film can be removed for 1 day. At the time of harvest, the film is completely removed.

In the summer, the berry is watered once a week, certainly in the early morning before the onset of heat, and certainly with warm water. Periodically, you need to weed the beds, monitor the health of plants, exterminate pests in time.

In the autumn season, strawberries should be covered with fallen leaves, spruce branches, and straw. If there is no such material for shelter on the site, then the bushes can be spudded without sprinkling growth points. At the same time, you need to fertilize from a mixture of peat with compost.

from seed?

Growing strawberries from seeds can give nice results, but only with certain plant varieties. hybrid varieties clearly not suitable for this.

To do this, you need a container with a depth of 10 cm, it should be filled with special soil for seedlings by 5 cm and carefully poured with water. Spread the seeds at an equal distance from each other and cover with transparent glass, while pouring soil over the seeds is not required. The box with soil and seeds should be placed in a warm place, when the first shoots appear, move it to the most illuminated place and remove the glass. After the appearance of the first leaves, you need to pick in separate pots and add special ones every two weeks. When the seedling grows up optimal sizes, it can be planted in open country soil. Be careful and choose carefully where to plant strawberries. When landing, you need to follow some more rules:

The plant should be planted shallow.
The apical kidney cannot be covered.
Too superficially planted strawberries can expose their roots and become sick.

Strawberry seeds: how to collect them?

For the successful cultivation of strawberries from seeds, only the largest berries, which are harvested in the period July-August, should be used. The thin surface layer of the berry must be carefully removed, you can use a blade to rub it on the fabric. Dry the resulting material in the sun, disassemble the seeds and transfer to a paper bag. Before planting, they need to be stored at room temperature.

For growing strawberry seedlings from seeds, it is preferable to choose the following varieties: "Sakhalinskaya", "Gourmet", "Bogotá", "Mutofavorite" and others. In order to enjoy the berries longer, you can grow seedlings of early and later strawberries together.

To create the most favorable conditions for strawberries to grow, you can plant some useful crops next to them, such as parsley, spinach, or bush beans. To scare away slugs, planting parsley in the aisle of strawberries is very effective. The berry can also co-exist with beets, radishes, radishes, onions, lettuce, cabbage, or garlic. Sage and borage are no less useful for strawberries. Covering the soil with pine and spruce needles will have a very favorable effect on the taste of the fruit.

Growing strawberries in a line way

Pretty uncomplicated. Wet and cloudy weather is ideal for landing. The distribution of seedlings on the soil can be different: two-line, two-line in the beds or one-line. The most optimal is a two-line landing. At what distance to plant strawberries - the most frequently asked question beginner gardeners. It should be distributed at a distance of 15-20 cm, while the distance between the rows should be from 60 to 70 cm, between the lines themselves - 30 cm. With the one-line method, the same proportions are observed, with the only difference being that there is only one line. The beds should be located from north to south.

AT recent times experienced gardeners and gardeners, in order to protect their plants, increasingly began to use lutrasil or roofing material materials. In the process of work, holes are made in the material at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other and strawberry bushes are planted. The hole can be made with a bayonet shovel, and the seedlings should not be too deep in the soil and not too superficial, otherwise they will not take root.

Garden strawberries (large-fruited) - the most common berry culture grown by amateur gardeners. People call it strawberries. In this article, in order not to introduce confusion, it is also called a strawberry and we will talk about planting strawberries in open ground.

Ripe strawberries.

Biological features of culture

Strawberry - evergreen with a shortened rhizome and a small stem that becomes woody some time after planting. It forms three types of shoots: horns, mustaches and peduncles.

Horns or rosettes are formed from vegetative buds in the lateral part of the stem. The apical kidney of the horn - "heart" - is red. The larger it is, the more yield the plant will give in the first year. As the bush grows, the horns form higher and higher above the ground.
Whiskers are long lashes with which young plants can separate from the main bush. Mustaches of the 1st and 2nd orders are most suitable for obtaining planting material.
Peduncles are not suitable for planting material.

Diagram of a strawberry bush.

A feature of strawberries is their constant renewal.

Strawberry requirements for climatic factors

The berry plant is quite demanding on environmental conditions.

Temperature. Strawberries are quite winter-hardy; they can withstand temperatures down to -8-12°C without freezing. Under snow, it can tolerate frosts down to -35 ° C. spring frosts can damage buds and flowers, but since the crop blooms extremely unevenly, the entire crop is never lost. In addition, the buds are more resistant to frost (-4-5°C) than the opened flowers, which can withstand temperatures as low as -2°C.
Light. The culture is photophilous, but is able to tolerate slight shading. It can be grown in rows young garden, however, under the crown of an adult tree in dense shade, the plants will produce small berries.
Moisture. Strawberries are demanding on moisture, can tolerate short-term flooding, but do not grow on waterlogged soils. Drying out has a very bad effect on the development of culture. Not only does the yield of bushes decrease, but their growth and development also slows down.

Impact climatic factors on the yield of strawberries can be significantly weakened by proper agricultural technology.

Where is the best place to plant strawberries?

The best place for planting strawberries are well-lit areas with a flat surface, protected from strong winds. The soil should be loose, well-cultivated, cleared of weeds, especially malicious (wheatgrass, bindweed, thistle, thistle, gout). The occurrence of groundwater in the plot is at least 70 cm.

Lowlands where cold air accumulates are not suitable for planting strawberries. In such places, the crop ripens 8-12 days later.

Steep slopes are also unsuitable for planting, because when snow melts, the soil is washed out and plant roots are exposed.

A place for planting strawberries is chosen even and well lit.

Strawberries are grown on any soil, but medium loams are most preferred. With a close occurrence of groundwater, plants are cultivated on high ridges. Sandy soils are the least suitable for cultivation; plants on them suffer both from a low content of nutrients and from a lack of moisture. Before planting strawberries on such lands, they are cultivated.

Culture Precursors

garlic;
greens (parsley, dill, lettuce, cilantro, basil);
legumes;
root crops (carrots, beets);
all types of cabbage;
turnip, radish, radish;
bulbous flowers (tulips, daffodils), as well as marigolds.

But the best precursor is fertilized black or busy fallow. However, it is unlikely that gardeners can allow the land to be empty for a whole season on their already not very large plots.

Bad predecessors:

potatoes, tomatoes;
all pumpkin plants (cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, melon, watermelon).

Bushes are especially strongly oppressed after potatoes. Strawberries do not tolerate root secretions of this crop.

How to prepare a bed for planting strawberries

The beds for planting are prepared in 1-2 months, the earth should settle down, settle down. Strawberries love loose fertile soils, so digging should be carried out as deep as possible: on weakly fertile soils by 18-20 cm, on chernozems - 25-30 cm.

We are preparing a ridge for planting garden strawberries.

Strawberries do not respond well to the direct application of fertilizers for planting, because they do not tolerate a high concentration of salts in the soil. Therefore, they are used either under the predecessor, or in the preparation of the beds. The applied fertilizers are buried deep so that they dissolve in the ground and turn into a form accessible to plants.

on su clay soils a bucket of completely rotted manure, peat or compost is brought in per 1 m2. In the absence of organic fertilizers, use nitroammophoska or nitrophoska (2 tablespoons / m2).

When planting strawberries on sandy soils increased doses of manure, compost or humus are introduced into the beds - 2-3 buckets / m2. You can make sod land and 3-4 kg of sawdust.

On heavy loams and clay soils, river sand is used with organic fertilizers. 3-4 kg of sand and 2-3 buckets of manure or compost are added per 1 m2. Fertilizers are thoroughly mixed with the ground and close up deeply.

Strawberries grow well in neutral and slightly acidic soils(pH 5.5-7.0). If the pH is below 5.5, then liming is carried out. It is better to apply dolomite or limestone flour, as their effect continues throughout the entire period of growing the crop in one place (4 years). Application rate 3-4 kg/m2.

Lime is not applied directly under strawberries, but is used 2-3 years before the laying of a plantation for previous crops. Lime can be replaced with ash, it acts much softer, it contains trace elements necessary for strawberry bushes. Ash is brought in for digging 2-3 cups / m2.

On alkaline soils, the site is acidified. To do this, use peat, sawdust, rotted coniferous litter (10 kg / m2). Their action is soft and slow, but long-lasting. If it is necessary to slightly acidify the earth, then physiologically acidic mineral fertilizers: ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate. Ash on highly alkaline soils should not be applied.

Selection of strawberry seedlings

When choosing seedlings Special attention pay attention to the state of the bushes. They should be fully formed with 3-5 leaves spread out. The absence of damage, spots, wrinkles on the leaves is an indicator of the health of the seedlings.

Only healthy seedlings are selected for planting.

Squat rosettes with a large pink or red central bud are considered the highest quality. The development of the strawberry bush and the harvest of the first year depend on its size. With a “heart” diameter of more than 20 mm, it is possible to get a crop of up to 300 g of berries in the first year. Bushes with long, elongated petioles and a green "heart" in the first year will give a very small crop or there will be no berries on them at all.

Choose strong healthy specimens, weak plants will not only be less productive, but they are more susceptible to diseases and pests. If only the worst plants remain, then it is better not to take anything at all than to buy obviously problematic bushes.

If strawberry seedlings are already blooming, then specimens with large flowers are chosen - in the future these are large berries. You should not buy seedlings with small flowers, and even more so one that has no buds at all.

When laying a new plantation, 3-5 plants of each variety are selected in order to subsequently receive planting material from them. The best option is to purchase strawberries of 3-4 varieties.

When buying seedlings with an open root system, special attention is paid to the roots. They should be light, at least 5 cm long. If the roots are dark, then the plant is weak and sick, it may not take root after planting.

The place of the growth point ("heart") should be thin. The thicker it is, the older the bush from which the outlet is taken. The berries on such plants are very small, and it gives a crop of only 1 year.

Planting strawberries in open ground

A strawberry plantation is formed gradually. The most thoughtful way of growing - placing rows of plants on the plot different ages. Every year a new bed is laid, and the oldest strawberries are dug up. Then on the site it will be possible to gradually replace old plants with young strawberry bushes.

Strawberry seedlings of different ages.

Planting dates when it is better to plant strawberries

Planting time determines the size and quality of the first harvest. The main dates for planting strawberry bushes are spring, the second half of summer and autumn.

Spring planting time highly dependent on the growing region and weather conditions. AT middle lane and in Siberia it occurs in early-mid May, in the southern regions - mid-late April. The earlier the seedlings are planted, the greater the harvest will be next year. During the growing season, the bushes will get stronger and lay a large number flower buds.

The main disadvantage of spring planting strawberries is the lack of planting material. What is for sale is either rosettes obtained from old bushes or last year's latest mustaches. Neither one nor the other is a quality planting material. The horns of old bushes are not young seedlings, but the same old bush divided into sockets. There will be no harvest from such plants, no matter how well they are looked after.

Mustaches of the 5th-8th order are the weakest on the garland and in order to obtain berries they must be grown during the year.

Summer landing time is the most optimal. You can determine the most favorable landing time by the mustache. When mustaches of the 1st and 2nd orders appear, then it's time to plant seedlings. During the remaining time, the bushes will form a powerful root system and go into the winter fully prepared. Subject to the deadlines, the harvest of 1 year should be 100-150 g of berries per plant.

autumn term(September-October) is the worst in terms of getting berries for the next year. The bushes will have time to take root, but they will go into the winter poorly prepared, not fully formed, they will lay few flower buds, the harvest will be very small (20-30 g per bush).

In addition, such plants do not tolerate winter quite well: the percentage of loss can be very large. In the northern regions, up to half of the strawberry bushes sometimes freezes.

Autumn planting of strawberries is possible only when it is necessary to get a large number of mustaches for the next year. Then in the spring all flower stalks are removed from these plants, thereby stimulating the formation of as much as possible more mustache. In the first year, the bushes give the most powerful mustache, from which the best varietal plants are obtained.

It should be taken into account that early varieties with the optimal planting time, they give half the yield than medium and late ones - this is a feature of strawberries.

Seedling treatment before planting

Seedlings brought from the nursery are often infected with pests and diseases. To destroy pests, strawberries are heated in water at a temperature of 50 ° C, immersing the plant, together with the pot, entirely in water for 15-20 minutes. The procedure is repeated twice with an interval of 30-40 minutes.

AT hot water most pests die (mites, stem nematodes, root aphids, etc.).
To prevent diseases, seedlings are completely immersed for 5-7 minutes in a solution blue vitriol or HOM (1 teaspoon) and table salt(3 tablespoons) diluted in 10 liters of water. Then it is rinsed with water and planted.

Strawberry Planting Schemes

There are several schemes for planting strawberries: compacted, 30 × 60, 40 × 60, 40 × 70.

Compact planting. Strawberries have a very clear pattern: the denser the planting of seedlings, the higher the first harvest. In dense planting, plants of late varieties are placed according to the scheme 20 × 60 cm (20-25 bushes / m2).

The aisles should not be compacted, because after the first picking of berries, the strawberries are thinned out. If this is not done, then next year it will give very few berries. After fruiting, every second bush is dug up and placed on a separate bed according to the 40 × 60 cm scheme. Compacted plantations for these bushes are no longer suitable, such a scheme is only suitable for seedlings.

Seedlings of early varieties are planted at a distance of 15 cm from each other with a row spacing of 60 cm. After picking the berries, they must also be thinned out so that the gap between the bushes is 30 cm.

Planting strawberries according to the scheme 30 × 60 cm. Strawberries give high yields only when the plants are free in the garden and there is no competition from other bushes (the exception is the first year). According to the scheme 30 × 60 cm, early varieties of strawberries are planted.

Between the varieties in the garden, the distance is left at 80 cm, it is necessary so that the mustache does not intersect. Confusion with varieties must be avoided by all means.

Planting according to the scheme 40 × 60 cm. According to this scheme, mid-season and late varieties are placed, since their bushes are more powerful, forming large rosettes.

Planting according to the scheme 40 × 70 cm. This scheme is used when planting strawberries of mid-ripening and late varieties on highly fertile chernozem soils.

You can plant bushes in a single-row or two-row way.

How to plant strawberries

Landing is carried out on cloudy days or in the evening, because in daytime and in sunny hot weather, the leaves evaporate water strongly. And since the bushes have not yet taken root, and the flow of water into the leaves does not occur, the plants may wither. This negatively affects the further development of culture.

During the spring planting of flowering strawberries, all flower stalks are removed, since the main thing is rooting and correct formation plants. The harvest of seedlings only depletes the plant, which further leads to its weakening and poor wintering.

Proper planting of seedlings.

When planting plants, it is impossible to deepen or raise the "heart", since in the first case this leads to decay of the seedlings, and in the second - to its drying. "Heart" should be located at the level of the soil.

When planting strawberries, no fertilizers are used, they must be applied in advance. The roots are well straightened, they should not be twisted or bent up. With a length of roots over 7 cm, they are shortened, but they should not be less than 5 cm.

When planting in the hole, a mound is poured, the roots are evenly distributed over it and sprinkled with moist soil. After that, the seedlings are watered abundantly. You can spill the planting holes with water and plant the bushes directly into the water, then after planting, watering is not carried out.

Planting strawberries under black covering material

As a covering material, a black film or agrofiber (dark spunbond, lutarsil) with a thickness of 100 microns is used. When using thinner material, weeds grow through it. It is spread on the bed in a continuous layer 1-1.2 m wide.

At the edges, the material is fixed by pressing it to the ground with bricks, boards or sprinkling it with earth. Then cross-shaped slots are made on its surface, in which holes are dug and seedlings are planted in them. Slots are made after laying the material on the bed. The bushes are pressed tightly, otherwise the mustache will grow and take root under the film. There is no need to be afraid that the plants will be cramped, the film and agrofibre are able to stretch.

The ridges are made high and slightly sloping so that the water flows down and hits the ground along the edges. For the winter, the covering material is removed, because in winter the plants under it rot (especially under the film). Under covering material, it is better to grow strawberries in a single row.

The advantages of this landing method:

a significant increase in yield, since the black surface heats up more in the sun, the soil warms up faster and deeper;
berries are practically not affected by gray rot;
weed growth is suppressed;
less labor intensive growing process.

Flaws:

uniform watering of the bushes is almost impossible. Watering the plants under the root is also very difficult, because the slots are small and it is difficult for enough water to get into them;
the film does not allow air to pass through, due to which the roots rot;
weeds actively germinate through strawberry bushes;
way too expensive to grow

When growing strawberries under agrofibre or film, it is necessary to lay an irrigation system. This is economically justified only in large farms. On individual garden plots it is too laborious and costly.

The optimal life of the plantation is 4 years. Then the yields are sharply reduced, the berries become small and sour, it becomes necessary to renew the plantings of strawberries.

How to propagate strawberry bushes on your own and what mistakes gardeners most often make.

Is it worth it to ordinary summer residents.

A selection of the newest, most productive and promising varieties.

Growing technology and all the pros and cons of this business.

Mistakes made when laying a strawberry plantation can be difficult to correct in the future. They will certainly affect the yield.

The most important factors when planting strawberries

The best strawberry varieties will be those that are already grown in your area.

Planting strawberries correctly is not so difficult. It is only necessary to take into account all the needs of this berry crop.

Selection of varieties

However, I want to try supernovae. Beyond old and modern domestic varieties, strawberry seedlings are imported into the country. Advertising is not always fair. Navigating the flow of information is difficult even for an experienced farmer, let alone beginners.

Experienced gardeners advise plant unfamiliar varieties in small numbers , check their behavior in the microclimate of a particular area, and let the most successful forms for reproduction and laying a large plantation.

seedling quality

The easiest way to select seedlings is to trust a local nursery with good recommendations.

Good strawberry seedlings meet four basic requirements:

purity;
young age;
standard sizes;
freedom from diseases and pests.

Compliance with the variety “by eye” can be quite difficult to determine. It's a matter of supplier credibility. That is why you need to buy strawberry seedlings in the most reliable places. Do not bulk buy in one place. It is wiser to get a little bit of seedlings from different manufacturers.

Seedling evaluation

A strawberry seedling should have healthy dark green leaves and developed roots without damage.

Visually, every gardener is able to assess how developed the planting material is. big bushes multi-horn, with brown roots are too old and not suitable for planting.

have one strong stem, green growth point, 3-5 developed leaves, light roots at least 5-7 cm long. The thickness of the root neck depends on the variety, but in any case, the seedlings should not be frail.
Too large foliage at the seedlings should also alert . Such seedlings are often overfed with nitrogen. They are hard to tolerate landing in the ground. Good bushes are medium in size and peppy. planting material with a closed root system, it takes root faster, but a strong mustache with open roots is also a good option (as long as they are not sluggish or rotten).
Pale leaves are found in diseased strawberry plants, and they become shriveled when damaged by a microscopic pest - strawberry mite . Such plants should not be purchased. Sometimes, before planting, it is recommended to disinfect strawberry seedlings: they are immersed for 15 minutes in a large container of water, the temperature of which +48 degrees; then the bushes are immediately cooled in cold water.
Dark or light spots on autumn strawberry seedlings - signs. These diseases are not too terrible, and if there are few spots, then you should not refuse the desired purchase.

Planting dates for strawberries for a good harvest

The optimal time for planting young strawberry mustaches is July-August.

At the end of August, we take the mustache that has taken root over the summer and plant them on a new bed.

September is suitable for southern regions.

Permissible to transfer landing in the spring , but then the harvest of this season will be significantly less.

Seedlings sown in February-March , transplanted into beds in May or June.

Site microclimate

Strawberry plants successfully bear fruit in various climatic zones, on any terrain. Even swampy lowlands are suitable for them, where other berries and fruit trees grow poorly.

The main thing is that in the spring there should be no long-term soil soaking. Ridges in such places are poured above the general level of the earth, and the first flowers are protected by agrofibre from late frosts.

If the garden is hilly, then rows of strawberries are placed across the slope, on the terraces. So moisture drains less, it is better retained in the soil. On the southern slopes, plantings dry out faster and need more frequent watering.

Wintering

We mulch strawberries with hay or straw for a successful wintering.

It is good if the strawberry plantation accumulates in winter moderate amount of snow . In windy places, various buildings, fences, and shrubs contribute to snow retention. If the snow layer is too thick, this is also bad: strawberry bushes in such conditions can warm up.

In warm regions, shelter for the winter with old foliage is allowed.

Strawberries prefer well-lit places. Only some remontant varieties put up with shading.

Neighborhood of crops and crop rotation

You can not place a new strawberry in place of the old one. The earth should take a break from this berry plant for 4–5 years.

Some crops suffer from the same diseases and pests. Do not plant strawberries after them or in the neighborhood. And then there are plants that do not get along with anyone.

Bad neighbors and predecessors for strawberries

Horseradish, fennel, Jerusalem artichoke, sunflower, buttercups, birch, Manchurian walnut. These are universal aggressor plants that have a bad effect on other crops.

Raspberry, gooseberry, cherry. These berries have a common disease with strawberries - verticillosis. The weevil bug damages the buds on raspberries and strawberries, so their close location plays into the hands of a harmful insect. In addition, both berries are susceptible. Tall raspberry and cherry bushes give too thick a shadow, and aggressive shoots rush to the loose and wet space of the beds.

Pumpkin and Nightshade crops (vegetables and flowers). Solanaceae family: potatoes, peppers, eggplants, physalis, tobacco, petunia, schisanthus, datura. Pumpkin family: zucchini, squash, cucumbers, pumpkins, watermelons, melons. Their representatives have common infections with strawberries (verticillosis, rhizoctoniosis, viruses), as well as th - nematode worms. They also live on onions and peas, so it is sometimes advised not to plant strawberries after these vegetables. But you can also meet the opposite opinion: onions and legumes called among the good predecessors for strawberries.

Phlox, asters, carnation, lilac, hops, clover, dandelion, plantain. These plants are also carriers of infections dangerous for strawberries.

Then it is better to grow strawberries

On a plot for strawberries, it would be good to grow mustard or oats first.

Good neighbors are garlic and strawberries.

Some plants are able to repel diseases and dangerous insects. At the same time, they are quite compact and can be planted directly in the aisles of strawberries:

garlic,

calendula,

dwarf nasturtium,

undersized marigolds.

Sometimes tulips, greens (parsley, lettuce, etc.), radishes are planted on strawberry beds.

In mother plots for seedling production mustaches successfully take root in the shade under marigold or lettuce bushes.

Pictured is our site.. As you can see, strawberries, tomatoes and potatoes grow nearby. The potatoes have just been planted.

Question about different varieties

Similar varieties of strawberries can be planted together.

Many novice gardeners do not know if it is possible to place nearby various varieties strawberries.

Science knows that with such a neighborhood, pollination is more successful, the quality of the ovaries improves.

But there are certain limitations associated with the features of care. DO NOT plant varieties together:

With varying degrees resistance of berries to gray rot,

early and late maturing

regular and repair

small and large-fruited,

mustachioed and small mustachioed (beardless),

winter-hardy and problematic,

tested and new.

Purchased seedlings grown by micropropagation are placed on a separate bed, away from any sources of infection. Healthy planting material is obtained from these bushes.

Step-by-step instruction

Alkaline soils (pH greater than 7) are not suitable for strawberries. Soils with high acidity (pH less than 5) are preliminarily deoxidized - better ahead of time, under the previous crop.

Holes for strawberries are dug in loose, prepared soil in advance, aged for at least half a month.

Strawberries develop normally on neutral and slightly acidic soils; the bulk of the gardens in our country is located precisely in such areas.

heavy clay soils make it looser by adding river sand, lowland peat, humus. In excessively light sandy soil, on the contrary, clay is introduced.

The beds must be fertilized before planting, and not just in holes, but under digging about 30 cm deep. At the same time, the rhizomes of perennial weeds are removed. On 10 square meters plantations are desirable to make 10–20 buckets of compost (humus), complex mineral or organomineral fertilizers (from 500 grams to 2 kg - according to the instructions), half a bucket wood ash . Then it is desirable to let the earth settle down before planting seedlings ( 15–30 days). Over this time nutrients from fertilizers will enter into a beneficial interaction with the soil.
The bare earthen surface of strawberry beds is not the best option.

This berry crop bears fruit well on plantations covered with black agrofibre, a modern mulching material. It is spread on the ridges before planting seedlings. If this option is not used, then after landing be sure to lay out another mulch - straw, needles, lowland peat, dry leaves, cardboard, etc.

The layout of the bushes

The distance between strawberry plants has a huge impact on further fate plantations.

The scheme of planning beds for strawberries.

Unnecessarily rare planting leads to a significant crop shortage with usable area, and thickening leads to shading, depletion of bushes, dampness, development of diseases and pests.

Rarely place varieties sensitive to strawberry mites, prone to to the defeat of berries with gray rot . Good ventilation and plenty of sun is the best prevention.

The specific size of the bush depends on the variety of strawberries: it can be compact or sprawling, loose or leafy. Approximate row spacing range is 60–80 cm, for holes in a row - 20–40 cm .

Immediate boarding process

Strawberry seedlings with exposed roots should not be stored in water. They are dug into the ground at the level of the root collar, choosing a shaded place for this.

When the seedling is watered after planting, you need to look so that the outlet does not go deep into the soil under the influence of water.

Immediately before planting, the root system can be soaked in a stimulant (Zircon, Heteroauxin, humate, HB-1) or powdered with Kornevin.

Seedlings are transplanted to permanent place cloudy, cool weather preferably in the evening. New plants are shaded for several days (with white agrofibre, newspapers, burdock leaves).

The strawberry has taken root and already pleases with its berry.

Watering

The wells are watered twice - before and after planting the bushes.

When planting strawberries, it is very important to straighten the roots down, and place the neck strictly at ground level. The roots should not stick out, but the growth point should not be deepened either. The next day, you need to check if all the hearts are on the surface. The sown plants are slightly pulled up.

conclusions

If everything is done according to the rules, the strawberry plantation will thank you with a bountiful harvest.

Video about the correct autumn planting of strawberries