Strawberries how to grow large bushes. Agrotechnics for growing garden strawberries and strawberries in the open field. Spring planting seedlings

Strawberries have an unforgettable taste and aroma, thanks to which both adults and children love it. This berry is very popular, but its price is quite high, and it is much more profitable to grow strawberries on your own right at their summer cottage.

Independent cultivation of strawberries in a summer cottage is very painstaking, but at the same time a simple task. With the correct implementation of all the rules, the plant will actively bear fruit and bring a good harvest.

The complexity of growing lies in the fact that when cultivating strawberries, you will have to spend a lot of effort on performing such ordinary actions as watering and weeding.

Grow this berry open field in the garden it is possible both in the southern and northern latitudes and in Siberia. The key to success in this endeavor will be correct selection of varieties which must be adapted to the specific area. The modern market has to offer great amount types of strawberries. All of them differ from each other according to such criteria as climatic resistance, ripening period, size and taste of fruits, etc.

If you are going to plant strawberries in your country house, you also need to make sure that she feels comfortable. To do this, the berries are placed in a light, sandy or loamy soil.

Popular species and good varieties for Siberia

For beginners, it is best to focus on famous varieties who have already proven themselves:

  1. Darenka- this early ripe variety boasts immunity to fungal diseases and pests. Also, this plant tolerates winter temperatures and brings a lot of crops. Berries of medium size (15-20 grams) have the shape of a blunt cone. The taste is pleasant, sweet and sour;
  2. - this variety has excellent resistance to frost and drought. There is a susceptibility to infection with brown or white spotting. Large fruits, weighing 25-35 grams, are made in the form of a rounded rhombus, the presence of ribbing is characteristic. When fully ripe, the skin takes on a maroon hue. The pulp is juicy, tender and sweet and sour;
  3. - grade Russian selection perfectly adapted to the conditions of the middle lane. The plant is not afraid of diseases and return frosts, but at the same time brings a good harvest. The leaves on the bushes are large, and the flower stalks are powerful and stable. Oblong, bright red berries have a pleasant taste and strawberry aroma;
  4. - a feature of the remontant variety will be its large and very sweet fruits. The plant can tolerate severe frosts, return frosts, attacks of insects and diseases. The yield is always high level. The main disadvantage of the variety will be that it does not form a mustache, so it will have to be propagated using seeds.

Darenka

Proper planting on a garden plot in the open field - step by step instructions

When planting strawberries in a summer cottage, it is first necessary decide on deadlines. The gardener has several options for the development of events:

  • spring (April) - a bed for strawberries must be prepared in the fall of the previous season;
  • summer (July 20-25) - the garden is also prepared in the fall;
  • autumn (September) - in this case, the soil for plants is prepared 2-3 weeks before the work.

Once the deadlines are set, you can start the formation of beds. The place where they will be located must meet the following requirements:

  1. The soil must be sandy or loamy, necessarily breathable and nourishing;
  2. The optimum level of acidity should be within 5.5-6.5 Ph. In the event that the indicator is lowered, it can be raised by adding dolomite flour. It is worth remembering that such work can only be carried out in the fall;
  3. Places of accumulation of rainfall are not suitable for growing strawberries. melt water, because in this case there is a high risk of rotting of the root system;
  4. Groundwater should be located at a depth equal to 70-80 centimeters;
  5. Experienced gardeners recommend placing strawberries separately from all other garden crops;
  6. Legumes and cereals or greens are considered the best predecessors of strawberries. You should not plant in those places where tomatoes or potatoes grew before;
  7. In order for the berries to ripen, to be juicy and sugary, the planting site must be sunny.

The way the beds are formed will depend on the chosen growing location. In the event that the site is located on a hill and is well lit by sunlight, it is enough to build a bulk bed with a height of 10 centimeters. At a high position ground water this figure is increasing up to 35-40 centimeters.

The optimal landing width is 95-100 centimeters.

In order to make the soil more fertile, the following fertilizers are applied per square meter of soil:

  • 8 kilograms of compost;
  • 100 grams of superphosphate;
  • 30 grams of potassium salt.

The next step is to select healthy seedlings:

  • they must be free of signs of mechanical damage and disease;
  • fit best planting material with the most powerful and branched roots;
  • socket must be from 3-4 leaves.

Before planting, it is necessary to carefully dig the soil to a depth of 25-30 centimeters.

Doing this will help form a nutritional and water regime. Also, during the digging, you can detect and destroy a variety of pests.

Once preparatory work will be completed, you can start planting plants:

  1. The best time for landing is considered to be early morning or late evening on a cloudy day;
  2. The standard planting pattern says that the distance between the rows is equal to 60-70 centimeters, and between individual plants 20-25 centimeters;
  3. The hole is dug deep 13-15 centimeters;
  4. When immersing the seedling in the ground, it is necessary to ensure that root neck was level with the ground. Otherwise, the plant will soon die;
  5. The last step will be abundant watering and mulching of plantings.

Planting and growing strawberries is a fairly simple process, the main thing is to follow all the rules and carry out preparatory measures in time.

Technology and secrets of strawberry care for a good harvest

Watering

Strawberry care includes many aspects. There are no technologies and secrets for harvesting. It is enough to observe step by step instructions for planting and breeding, plant within a reasonable time and care properly. First of all, it is necessary water plants properly, that is, waterlogging and drying of the soil should not be allowed.

Experienced gardeners recommend watering strawberries after planting and flowering, while picking berries, in late summer and early autumn. 1 liter will be spent on one bush warm water. Immediately after watering, plantings are mulched with a 7-8 cm layer of humus.

Fertilizers and top dressings

According to the following diagram:

  1. In early spring, during the formation of leaves and after harvesting, the bushes are fertilized with nitrogen-containing fertilizers;
  2. In late August-early September, fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is carried out;
  3. Before flowering and after harvesting, plantings are fertilized with a solution of manure, humus or wood ash.

In no case should strawberries be fed with fertilizers that include chlorine in their composition.

Protection against diseases and pests

Strawberry beds are necessary regularly weed and loosen. This procedure will be a good prevention of fungal diseases.

In case if gray rot nevertheless, the plant was struck, in order to get rid of it before flowering, the planting is watered with a solution of iodine, a teaspoon of which is diluted in 10 liters of water. The procedure is repeated after 7-10 days.

To prevent diseases during flowering and after harvesting, the following treatments are carried out:

  • fungal diseases - "Fitosporin";
  • spotting and gray rot - copper oxychloride;
  • powdery mildew - 2 tablespoons of potassium permanganate, diluted in 10 liters of water.

During the entire growing season from the bushes remove mustache, this will contribute to the formation of a larger and more attractive crop. After picking the berries, it is necessary to cut off the entire green part of the plants, leaving only a few lower leaves.

Every 3-4 years of planting must be updated.

Preparing for winter

When growing strawberries in areas with a harsh and unpredictable climate, care should be taken to protect plants on winter period. In order for the shrub to endure cold temperatures well, choose climate-resistant varieties.

To prepare the plant for winter, it watered abundantly and mulched with straw. With the onset of the first frosts, plantings are covered with spruce branches, film, agrofiber or any other improvised means. If the winter is not snowy, then you need to additionally throw snow on the ridges.


The subtleties of growing sweet and fragrant berries

In order to grow a crop of tasty and juicy berries, you need to follow some rules:

  1. Best to pick zoned and tested varieties, care for which will not bring any special difficulties;
  2. To get a good harvest, it is very important to adhere to the agricultural technology of growing strawberries, namely, to follow the rules of the neighborhood, to deliberately approach the place where the plant grows and planting. It is also very important to correctly timely feed and water bushes;
  3. Weeds take a lot of strawberries nutrients, so they need to be removed as soon as possible;
  4. Effective and timely disease control will help maintain the quality and quantity of the crop;
  5. Whiskers deplete the plant, which causes the berries to become smaller and the total yield drops. To maintain fruiting, it is recommended regularly remove shoots strawberries.

Growing strawberries on your own plot is the dream of almost every gardener. In order to bring it to life, it is necessary to adhere to all the rules for cultivating a plant and not neglect the advice of experienced gardeners.

Planting and growing strawberries in the area next to your house or cottage is not so difficult.

Even a beginner who is not too well versed in the intricacies of fruit growing will cope with this task.

Having met several general rules for growing strawberries, you can easily get a good harvest of this tasty and rich useful vitamins berries.

Preparatory activities

Many novice gardeners, out of inexperience, believe that it is enough just to stick a strawberry seedling into the ground.

Of course, something will grow in this case. However, to get a good harvest, preparation is necessary, including the following items:

Choice of time for disembarkation. There are two options: plant either in spring or autumn. When deciding in favor of one of these two options, Special attention pay attention to climatic characteristics.

So, spring landing is recommended if the area is characterized by cold winters with a small amount of snow falling. In a different scenario, planting is usually done in the autumn period. Spring planting is done quite early, in late April - early May.

The main condition is completely thawed soil. You should not rush too much, because fragile seedlings can die in the event of frost.

Autumn planting is carried out from late July to early September. It is important to take into account the abundance of precipitation and air temperature: with a lack of falling moisture or too hot weather, seedlings may not survive.

Planting seedlings too late in the soil puts them in danger of dying from early frosts.

Choosing a place. It is preferable to plant strawberries on a flat area, and not on a slope. Especially dangerous are the southern slopes, which during snowmelt can be excessively waterlogged.

Good illumination and the exclusion of the danger of land flooding by flood waters are extremely important. In addition, the site must be protected from wind erosion. And remember that planting strawberries in a plot for 4 years in a row on the same plot significantly reduces its subsequent yield.

You should also pay attention to the type of soil. The following soils are ideal for growing strawberries: chernozem, loamy, sandy loam and dark gray forest. The preferred pH is about 5-6.5 and the occurrence of GW (groundwater) at a depth of about 50 cm.

Soil preparation. Before planting strawberries, the selected piece of land should be rid of stones, weeds and pests. While the first two enemies can be dealt with by manual cleaning, pests require a different type of control.

The following method is effective: in the spring, sow the area with a green manure plant, mow it at the end of summer and carry out additional processing with a special compound.

Seedling preparation. Not every seedling is suitable for planting soil. Ideal seedlings must have a fibrous root system with a main root diameter of at least 6 mm and a length of all roots of at least 7 cm.

Also, if the roots are too long, they need to be cut to the length indicated above. For planting selected specimens with 4-5 leaves, root hairs white color 3-4 cm long and intact apical bud.

Only after careful preparation has been carried out can one proceed to the direct cultivation of strawberries.

Ways to grow strawberries

The very procedure for placing seedlings in the ground is no less important than the preparation for this. There are several known ways, How can I do that.

Carpet. The easiest way, as it does not require careful preparation. Principle of the method: Seedlings are planted on a flat area without removing the tendrils, as a result of which the strawberries grow in a natural way. A significant disadvantage: every year the berries become smaller.

Bush. The essence of the method: each bush is planted separately at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other, and the antennae are removed. It contributes better ventilation seedlings and facilitate their care. The result is large berries. Disadvantage: the complexity of the method.

Nest. Seedlings are planted in groups, with one placed in the center and six around it. The distance between seedlings should be 6-8 cm, between nests - 30 cm, between rows - 40 cm. Advantage of the method: you can plant a large number of seedlings.

Private. The method is the most popular. Planting can be done in one or two rows in the garden.

The distance between the bushes is 20 cm, between the rows - 30 cm, between the centers of the beds (with a two-row version) - 70 cm.

Important! After planting seedlings in the ground, they need proper watering. It can be done in any way, as long as the plants have enough moisture.

What to do next?

As mentioned above, strawberries grow well in one area for no more than 4 years in a row.

Then a replacement with another crop is required to replenish the fertility of the soil. For this, onions, garlic and legumes are suitable. After them, you can plant strawberries again.

Photo how to grow strawberries


Strawberry in heart shape bowl

Strawberry- perhaps the most favorite berry. In addition to excellent taste, it is appreciated for high content folic acid, vitamin C, potassium, magnesium, iodine and many others. Many dishes can be made from strawberries, not only desserts, but also sauces.

The quality and quantity of strawberries depends on the cultivation technology. also differ from each other in taste, size of berries and many others, so you need to decide on the variety for cultivation.

How, after all, to grow strawberries, is it difficult to propagate and fertilize them, and other subtleties - find out in our article.

Strawberries can be grown in both seedling and seedless ways.

Seedling method of growing strawberries

So, when choosing strawberry seedlings, it is important to pay attention, firstly, to the weather conditions under which one or another variety is grown. Next, you should carefully examine the proposed seedlings themselves - there should be no mechanical damage, spots, dots, burns, etc. on the leaf plates and the plant as a whole. The color should be bright or dark green with no pale or whitish patches. The leaves should be smooth, in no case wrinkled. The root length of good strawberry seedlings is at least 7 cm. Otherwise, they want to slip you low-quality, diseased, infected seedlings, buying which you will only have problems.

In the event that you plant strawberries yourself from the varieties already available on the site, you need to properly prepare the plants for the propagation process. First, flower stalks are removed. The mustache is not touched. At the end of July, rosettes form on these very antennae - in many varieties their number is about 30.

Rosettes on which the number of leaves from 4 and above are suitable for seating. To do this, they are separated from the main mother bush and, together with a clod of earth, are planted in another place. After planting, such a new plant must be watered.


The seedless way to grow strawberries

This method of growing strawberries is applicable to those varieties that do not form mustaches. Process seed cultivation- much more difficult than usual. Seeds are easier to get in specialized stores.

Seeds are sown simply on the soil, and are not sprinkled on top. Sowing is carried out in a box, after which it is covered with glass or polyethylene. The cover is removed immediately when shoots appear. And the seedling box is transferred to a warmer and lighter place. It is important during the stay of plants in such boxes to monitor the level of soil or substrate moisture.

When one or two leaves appear, young bushes are transplanted into pots. Watered, fed, and when stable heat sets in, they are planted in the ground.

Growing strawberries - time and methods of planting

Everyone chooses the time and methods of landing for himself. Usually, strawberries are planted either in summer or in spring. In summer, the planting period lasts from late August to mid-September, and in spring - from late April to mid-May. The advantage of summer planting is that the first crop can be harvested already on next year. In addition, the area not yet occupied by strawberries can be used for growing other crops.

Landing is carried out in three ways - single-line, two-line and vertical.

Two line method strawberries are usually planted in open ground. The aisles are left 40 cm each, and between the bushes in the rows there should be at least 20-30 cm. The width of the beds should be at least 80 cm. The two-line planting method makes it possible to land large quantity plants to get a correspondingly larger yield.

One line method strawberries are most commonly grown own plots. It is planted between rows of trees, at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. Row spacing in this case is 60-70 cm.

vertical way growing strawberries. Such planting is used in cases of growing ampelous (climbing) varieties, saving space and just for beauty.

For this, vertical wooden trellis supports are used. Plants are planted near such structures, and the resulting whiskers themselves cling to them.

planting depth for strawberries


Soil for growing strawberries

Strawberries are a berry, the cultivation of which should follow simple but mandatory rules. It is impossible to plant it in the direction of the northeast and in the shade of trees. Near trees with a powerful root system, planting this berry is also not recommended. It is not necessary to grow vegetables of the Solanaceae family near it.

Predictably, the soil for strawberries is prepared in advance. They carry out plowing, or digging up the earth at the same time (or immediately after) with the application of fertilizers.

It is a well-known fact that the best fertilizers for strawberries are organic. For the main application, take humus and compost. Fresh manure should not be used.

Be sure to check the soil for pests. Basically, it is the May beetle and wireworm. If larvae of these insects are found, sow alkaloid lupine in the area. This grass will enrich the soil not only with nitrogen, but also with other elements. In addition, pests will not sit in such a place for a long time.

Strawberries are not particularly demanding on a particular type of soil, but grow best on chernozems and dark gray forest soils. It is better to return to its original place once every three years. The best predecessors of strawberries are steam, green manure and cereals.

In addition to using ordinary soil, strawberries are often grown on substrates. The best option- a mixture of turf, peat, humus, sawdust and sand. It is better to take soddy soil of medium loamy granulometric composition. For 7 parts of such soil, 2 parts of sawdust are taken.

Ash and dolomite beech can be added to peat. For 1 bucket of peat, they take, respectively, a glass of ash and 3 tablespoons of flour.

Sand is added by river. Its quantity should not exceed 0.1 of the entire mixture.

Fertilizer system for growing strawberries

Without fertilizers of this berry, you can not expect high yields. Best of all, strawberries respond to the introduction of organic matter.

It is best to take humus and manure.

Manure is a mixture of pet bedding and droppings. Manure is used exclusively in rotted form. Otherwise, weed seeds, pathogens and pest larvae will get into the soil from fresh manure.

Humus - in fact, manure, but completely rotted and fermented. In humus, all micro- and macroelements are in the most convenient form for assimilation by plants.

Chicken manure can also be used best source organic nitrogen. Specifically for strawberries, you need to take chicken manure in a ratio of 1:20 with water.

Feeding is carried out and mineral fertilizers. The concentration of nitrogen should be within 14%, phosphorus 7%, potassium 27% and magnesium 0.5%.

To save time and Money, recommend purchasing complex fertilizers.

Nitrogen is needed to obtain berries with high taste properties. To apply nitrogen, you can take ammonium nitrate or urea. 1 tablespoon of urea is taken per ten-liter bucket. First time feeding in early spring after removing old leaves. A solution in an amount of about half a liter per bush is poured at the base of the plants.

Potassium contributes to more long-term storage berries. In addition, due to potassium, the amount of sugar in fruits increases.

The disadvantage of this element is visually determined by the browning of the ends of the sheet plates. Most often, potassium nitrate, potassium sulfate and potassium chloride are used. Bring in the spring separately for each bush.

Fertilizers are applied in two stages - in autumn and spring. In autumn, the beds are dug up simultaneously with the application of fertilizers. After harvesting, the second main part is introduced.

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied at different times, depending on the type of soil: in spring in light soil, in autumn - in clay soil. During flowering and fruiting, strawberries cannot be fertilized.

In mid-September, strawberries are fed last time- a glass is taken for 10 liters of water wood ash, 2 tablespoons of nitroammophoska and 20-30 g of potash fertilizer.

When transplanting bushes to a new place, 8 kg of organic matter and 30 kg of mineral nutrition are added to the soil in advance.

Care of strawberries during the growing season

The most basic care for strawberries is timely watering. In dry weather, it is carried out once a week early in the morning. Water is used either spring or well-settled. In any case, the water should be warm.

Top dressing is carried out once every two weeks. After the full formation of the fruit, sawdust is poured under the bushes. This prevents the fruit from rotting. Also, in order to avoid rotting, the stalks are propped up with pegs.

In spring and early summer, bushes can be sprayed with phytohormones. This will improve the formation of ovaries and contribute to an increase in yield.

Berries need to be harvested as they ripen, a long stay will be negatively affected ripe berries on the bush. They are collected together with the stalks. Unnecessary tendrils are removed, otherwise they will use some of the nutrients needed by the main plant.

Sick plants are removed along with a three-centimeter layer of soil. If weather conditions abound in rain, plantings should be covered with polyethylene. By not doing this, you risk getting tasteless and watery berries.

Growing strawberries - preparing for winter

From the end of August to mid-September, plantings are thinned out. All diseased, dried, stained leaves and plants are removed. Remove whiskers and stalks. As a result, only about 30% of the original appearance remains from each bush.

If there are roots that have crawled out of the ground, they should be sprinkled with soil. Be sure to cover plants in regions with low temperatures. You can cover with both film and sawdust with peat.

Protecting strawberries from pests

The best defense is an attack, and in case Agriculture- warning. can significantly reduce yields. To protect strawberries from pests, they are treated with the following insecticides:

  • Karbofos, Ph.D. (a.i. malathion, 50%). Effective against weevils, strawberry beetles, transparent mites. Spraying is carried out in dry calm weather. The air temperature should not exceed +15º C. Water for the solution needs 8 liters, consumption - 10 liters per 10 bushes. Processing is carried out a maximum of twice - after harvesting.
  • Inta-vir, v.r.p. (a.i. cypermethrin, 3.75%). Sprayed before flowering to prevent weevils. Consumption is 1.5 liters per square meter.
  • Aktara, v.d.g. (a.i. thiamethoxam, 25%). Insecticide against whiteflies and beetles. 4 g of the drug is dissolved in 5 liters of water. The consumption of such a solution is 2 l/100 m 2 .
  • Metaldehyde, w.g. (a.i. metaldehyde, 5%). A drug a wide range action, on strawberries is used to fight snails and slugs. Spraying rate - 4-8 kg / ha.

Protection of strawberries from diseases

The main diseases of strawberries include wilting, rot, spotting and powdery mildew. can greatly affect the process of growing strawberries.

Fungicides used in the fight against strawberry pathogens:

  • used in 3-4% concentration before the beginning of the growing season and in a 1% solution before flowering and after harvesting against angular leaf spot, gray rot.
  • Soap-copper emulsion, consisting of 20 g of soap and blue vitriol per liter of water, destroys powdery mildew.
  • Topaz and Azocen at concentrations of 5-20 g per 10 liters of water, respectively, are also effective against powdery mildew.

Apart from chemicals protection, strawberry roots are dipped in biological preparations Agat 25K (7 g/l) and Humat K (15 g/l) before planting.

In addition, we must not forget about the agrotechnical conditions. proper cultivation strawberries:

  • return to the same place not earlier than after 6 years;
  • cultivation in the same place - no more than 4 years.

We are looking forward to the onset of May to enjoy the most delicious, perhaps, berry -. It has already become customary for us to harvest from spring to late autumn, but sometimes you want to taste the sweetness of your favorite berry on a cold winter day!

Alternatively, you can, of course, buy a package of strawberries for the price of gold in a supermarket. But doubts that this berry will be useful are very large - less doubt leaves the thought of the presence in it of chemistry that our body does not need at all. I offer another option: grow garden strawberries on the window and give yourself and your children a piece of summer in the middle of winter.

Is it possible to get a crop of garden strawberries in a room?

In this case, I really like the saying, for which I am often grateful in my life: “If you really want to, you can fly into space.” So with a strong desire, guided by these recommendations, you can get beautiful sweet berries at any time of the year.

For this you need:

  • high-quality live (not frigo!) seedlings, which we get from the first row of mustaches;
  • lamps (better) for additional illumination of plants;
  • a place on the windowsill;
  • This article.

How to "relocate" strawberries from the garden to the house?

Preparing seedlings for home growing in any case, it should be done long before the onset of winter.

Option 1

  1. When the bushes garden strawberries form a mustache, fill the container with drainage hole(for example, a disposable glass or a soft plastic pot) with earth and sand in a ratio of 1: 1.
  2. We dig it in level with the ground (but so that the edges of the container rise a little), direct the first outlet into the container, pin it with an ordinary hairpin or a wire bent in the form of a hairpin, and constantly water it. The earth must never dry out. otherwise the plant will die quickly.
  3. 3 weeks later when young plant rooted, we cut it off from the mother liquor and continue to water. At this point, watering is even more important; he should be at least 1 time per day, it is better in the evening, and on hot sunny days you can water it 2 times - in the morning and in the evening.
  4. As soon as buds form on the plant, they must be remove so that the outlet gains maximum strength.
  5. We are seedling cups leave in the ground until the first frost, and as soon as it froze, we take them out of the ground, fill the holes formed with earth and slightly compact.
  6. We completely carefully immerse the containers with plants in a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes, let the water drain, bring them into a room with a temperature not higher than + 10 ° C for 2-3 days. Then we bring the sockets into the room and put to the south window.
  7. Additional lighting is required because the length of the day is too short. The plant will need additional lighting from 6-7 o'clock in the morning to 19-20 o'clock in the evening, that is, daylight hours for the plant should be 13-14 hours. To do this, we use a phytolamp.

Option 2

This method is much simpler and less labor intensive.

1. Before the onset of frost, we dig up rooted young rosettes, remove substandard foliage (that is, leaves that are damaged mechanically, old), but so that the plant must have 2-3 true young leaves.


Why purchased soil mixture? It’s more reliable this way: the garden soil needs to be heated in the oven to destroy the pathogens, and the finished soil is sterile (of course, if we talk about high-quality purchased soil).


3. It is very important when planting not to deepen the heart (apical bud), which is located in the center of the outlet, otherwise the plant will simply rot.


4. We water the seedlings and bring them into the room, but for the first few days we do not put them on a sunny southern window, but we determine them in more gentle conditions (northern, eastern). After 3-5 days, we rearrange to the south. Just like in option 1, be sure to use additional lighting.

What varieties of strawberries are suitable for home growing?

The experimental practice that I have shown is that the easiest to care for and the most disease resistant in room conditions are varieties NSD "Albion" and "Aisha".


Variety "Albion"

I read more about these and other varieties of garden strawberries.

What conditions need to be created for plants to grow and bear fruit at home?

1. Lighting

As I said, we need a phytolamp for daily supplementary illumination for 13-14 hours a day. If we neglect this point, then a well-leafed plant will grow, but we will not see flowering (and harvest) in this case.

2. Temperature regime

The temperature on the windowsill must be at least +20°C. Right on the windowsill and not in the room. If the temperature is not observed, then our plants can weaken and get sick with fungal diseases.

3. Watering

Irrigation mode is important to choose so so that the earthen ball does not dry out, but in no case do not allow stagnant water.

4. Mandatory transshipment of plants

25-30 days after the "relocation" to the house, the plants need to be transplanted into a large container (1 liter in volume), since root system already strongly developed, and the outlet became cramped in a small glass. This is what the plant looks like before transplanting:

... and so - after:


5. Artificial pollination of flowers

An important condition for the formation of the ovary and the development of a full-fledged berry is. We make it by hand with an ordinary soft brush.


If this procedure is neglected or performed with insufficient quality, we will get deformed berries:


Do strawberries need fertilizing?

Like any plant, garden strawberries need nutrition. AT natural conditions plants get it from the ground in which plant residues have rotted. In a room, in a limited amount of soil, strawberries do not have such an opportunity, so care should be taken in without fail.
  1. We make the first top dressing ("Strawberry" or other complex fertilizer for garden strawberries) half dose(100 grams of solution during watering), When did the first buds appear?.
  2. We carry out the next feeding after the first berries were removed, the same fertilizer in the same dosage.
Do not be embarrassed and worry that the berry will accumulate nitrates or other harmful elements in itself, since this fertilizer will go to the plant itself, and not to the berry.

When can we expect the first harvest?

Experience shows that in winter, under room conditions, the period from planting to flowering is 30-35 days, and the first berries ripen in 30-35 days from the beginning of flowering. It turns out that from the moment of planting to the ripening of berries, an average of about 65 days passes.


Here are our first berries:


Homemade strawberry crop "Albion"

What is sick indoor strawberries and how to treat it?

If we adhered to all the recommended planting rules, and the indoor plants in the house are not affected by pests, then the strawberries are not in danger of being affected by them. But besides pests, there are no less dangerous fungal diseases - such as, for example.

Why might there be problems? The air in the room during the heating season is dry and warm, and we, knowing that this is unhealthy, begin to increase the humidity. For us, this is correct, but for garden strawberries, which at home are not blown by the wind, but are under the influence of cold from window glass, high humidity can cause powdery mildew. This is a white fungal coating on leaves, stems, and then berries.

To prevent the disease, you can use a drug that is safe for humans. We spray them with plants once a week. On the leaves, of course, white marks form, but the plant will be reliably protected.


Growing garden strawberries on the window is not difficult, the main thing is to really want to! Good luck and great harvests!

Lettuce, as the earliest and most unpretentious green crop, has always been held in high esteem by gardeners. Spring plantings most gardeners usually start by planting lettuce, parsley, and radishes. AT recent times striving for healthy eating and big choice greens in supermarkets make gardeners wonder which of these plants can be grown in their beds? In this article we will talk about the nine most interesting, in our opinion, varieties of lettuce.

Carrots come in a variety of colors: orange, white, yellow, purple. AT orange carrot dominated by beta-carotene and lycopene, yellow due to the presence of xanthophylls (lutein); white carrots are high in fiber, while purple ones contain anthocyanin, beta and alpha carotenes. But, as a rule, gardeners choose varieties of carrots for sowing not by the color of the fruit, but by the timing of their ripening. About the best early, middle and late varieties we will tell in this article.

Recommend Enough easy recipe pie stuffed with delicious chicken and potato filling. open pie with chicken and potatoes - this is an excellent hearty dish that is suitable for a hearty snack, it is very convenient to take a couple of pieces of this pastry on the road. The cake is baked in the oven for one hour at 180 degrees. After that we put it on wooden surface, after releasing it from the form. It is enough to slightly cool the pastries and you can start tasting.

The long-awaited spring for many indoor plants is the period of the start of active vegetation, and for the majority - the return of their decorative effect. Admiring the young leaves and emerging shoots, you should not forget that spring is also a big stress for all houseplants. Sensitive to changes in conditions and versatile, all indoor crops are faced with much more bright lighting, changes in air humidity and temperature regimes.

You can easily cook homemade Easter cake with cottage cheese and candied fruits, even without any confectionery experience behind you. You can bake Easter cake not only in special form or in paper form. For the first culinary experiences (and not only), I advise you to take a small cast iron pan. Easter cake in a pan will not turn out as high as in a narrow form, but it never burns and always bakes well inside! Yeast curd dough is airy and fragrant.

It is also interesting in that its fruits (pumpkins) are used as food by young, not ripe ones (zelenets). This means that you do not have to wait for the harvest to ripen, and from late spring to autumn you can have on the menu fresh vegetables. In your beds, it is better to grow varieties and hybrids of zucchini that are resistant to disease and change. weather conditions. This eliminates unwanted treatments and allows you to get a crop in any weather. It is about such varieties of zucchini that will be discussed in this article.

In the middle lane, April is the time when the first flowering of plants begins in gardens and parks. The constant soloists of the spring that has come into its own are bulbous primroses. But also among ornamental shrubs you can meet those that will delight you with fragrant flowers that enliven a still inconspicuous garden. The main riot of flowering ornamental shrubs falls on the month of May, and most of them, as a rule, bloom in mid-May.

Salad "Uzbekistan" with green radish, boiled meat and eggs is a classic dish of Uzbek cuisine, known to many since the days of the USSR. In any Uzbek restaurant for a snack, you could order this unpretentious, but very tasty salad with meat and radish. If you have never cooked this dish before, I advise you to try it - you will like it and fall into the favorite category! You can diversify the taste a little and add finely chopped cilantro, parsley and a pod of red chili pepper.

We are offered such a huge number of different preparations that, at times, it can even get confused in the choice of one or another fertilizer. experienced summer resident. In this article, we invite the reader to get acquainted with OMU - a complex granular organomineral fertilizer of prolonged action, which compares favorably with other modern complex fertilizers. Why WMD is the best nutrition you can offer your plants and how does it work?

The group of medicinal plants that have a general sedative (sedative) effect includes big number fragrant herbs and shrubs. At correct application teas and infusions from these plants help to cope with stressful situations, improve mood, eliminate or reduce nervous overexcitation. In this article we will talk about the nine most interesting, in our opinion, medicinal plants, which can be grown on the site without much difficulty.

Aroma is not the most important and not at all associated with orchids trait. But in some species and individual varieties, the smell is a significant addition to their main "image". Favorite sweets, confectionery and spicy flavors are not uncommon among orchids. Vanilla flavors or more original spicy notes add a delightfully bright flowers even more exotic. And you can choose spicy fragrant orchids from both popular and rare species.

Easy pear and walnut muffins - sweet, juicy and delicious! The homeland of muffins is considered to be Great Britain and America. In England, such cupcakes are made from rich yeast dough, in America from yeast-free butter dough, which is loosened with baking soda or baking powder, or both. The basic muffin recipe looks something like this: 200 g flour, 200 ml milk or kefir, 100 g eggs, 100 g butter, baking powder and soda.

What does it take to get a good potato crop? Many gardeners will say - good seed material, fertile soil, timely watering and top dressing. But there is one negative factor that can significantly reduce the potato yield, despite the fulfillment of the above conditions - weeds. On plantations overgrown with weeds, it is not possible to get a rich harvest of potatoes, and reusable weeding is one of the most time-consuming procedures in crop care.

Some of the summer residents were lucky, and they acquire a manor with several adult sprawling trees that create shade and cozy corners. But our new dacha there were practically no such plantings. And the half-empty area behind the chain-link mesh turned out to be completely open to prying eyes. Therefore, this interesting design was born, which meets the specific requirements of our family. I think our experience in building a multifunctional support for plants will be of interest to you.

Today we will talk about the annual variety "Amore Mio". In 2016, the petunia "Amore Myo Orange" received the gold medal of the International Association of Breeders, Traders and Producers flower crops. The plant grows up to 25 cm in height. Bush appearance resembles a ball, which is densely strewn with bright fragrant flowers up to 6 cm in diameter. Does not set seeds. Petunia "Amore Mio" is used for vertical and horizontal gardening.

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